What started off as a tiny corner köfteci in 1980 became a meatball legend that is now situated in a two-story restaurant. It’s a locale that attracts anyone who knows how to appreciate a humble yet divinely delicious serving of meatballs.

An ideal spot for a quick lunch or dinner with a couple of friends or family, Ali Baba is a humble neighborhood eatery where love of meatballs is shared over at leastbi buçuk porsiyon (one and a half portions of meatballs). The typical Ali Baba dinner starts with piyaz, a classic Turkish salad made with white beans, diced tomatoes, and onions. First, the dried oregano and red pepper is generously sprinkled on top, followed by a desired amount of olive oil, vinegar, and lemon. Then, a piece of the freshest bread is dipped in, marking the first juicy bite of the night that tests whether the perfect piyaz consistency has been reached. Once a colossal smile takes over the face, the guests dive in for the first forkful.

In no time, the sizzling portion of soft and juicy meatballs fresh off the grill is served with tomato wedges and onions. Many customers will order a second portion, or at least half a portion, of these addictive little things. You can eat it plain or make it into a little sandwich. You can order it as dürüm (wrap) as well.

Any meal at Ali Baba will end with a complimentary glass of tea. And if you like, you can go for the Kemal Pasa tatlısı (a syrupy dessert made with cheese, flour, semolina halvah, and eggs) or irmik (semolina halvah). But rest assured that it’s the melt-in-your-mouth delicious meatballs that will keep you coming back to Ali Baba.

Köfteci Ali Baba, Arnavutköy Mahallesi Arnavutköy Bebek Caddesi No.69, Arnavutköy; P: (0212) 263 13 61

The two-story coffee shop is furnished with vintage-looking chairs, tables, lamps, and posters, plus a variety of nostalgic objects. The mood here is very pseudo-European, with groups of artists passionately discussing their latest project creating a feel that is reminiscent of Café de Flore circa 1945. There are also the freshly in love couples, sitting a breath away from each other, sipping coffee and getting lost in each other’s eyes. The soft jazz, the New Yorker magazines on the tables, and the men with the artist stamp of a full grown bear and glasses give this meeting spot a decidedly urban and artsy spin.

Karaköy locals and Istanbul’s hipster population like hanging out at this Austrian café, where checkered floors, colorful walls, and the soothing music create a linger-friendly vibe. The feel-at-home comfort is multiplied in the form of an apple pie or a cup of Wiener Melange. Many frequenters settle in with their morning paper, a cappuccino (served in a little silver tray), and a muffin or croissant, while others head to the Karaköy hotspot in the evening to enjoy their entrees, like the Schnitzel (chicken or beef), the Frankfurter, or Penne Pesto.

The success of this neighborhood fixture can be attributed to its location in the hottest Istanbul neighborhood, the zealous gourmet coffee selection, and the tasty dishes that equally serve coffee drinkers and diners. More than 40 different coffee varieties overwhelm the coffee selection, from classics like Espresso and Café Latte to Julius specialties like Franziskaner (espresso with cream) and Einspanner (double espresso, black coffee, steamed cream, topped with whipped Cream). A limited menu of mains and sandwiches, breakfast treats like pancake and omelets, plus the nearly twenty kinds of desserts make Julius much more than just a corner coffee shop.

With its warm and welcoming mood, this is the place to linger, to read a book, to grab a friend for a lingering tête-à-tête. If you’re by yourself, the upstairs area is ideal for you, your cup of coffee, and your favorite book. If you’re on a let’s-get-to-know-each-other date, keep it downstairs, perhaps outside enjoying the breeze. If you’re with a group of friends, consider sitting in the area in the back – you’ll have a lot more space to yourself and the roaring laughers won’t interrupt the other customers.

Julius Meinl/Karabatak Karaköy,Kemankeş Karamustafa Paşa Mahallesi Kara Ali Kaptan Sokak No.7, Karaköy; P: (0212) 243 69 93

The bridge never allows the horizon to turn pitch black because its light is always there, something the owners of Ulus29 took into consideration when allowing an expansive view via floor to ceiling windows and dim interior lighting. In the summer, the view is maximized with an outdoor terrace that faces the Bosphorus directly. Also housed in Ulus29, which is located on top of a hill in the Ulus district, is a lounge and club attractive for those interested in a nightlife that carries the upscale elements of the restaurant. Apart from its lavish decor, inclusive of lush golden chandeliers and abstract art works, and a reputation for serving top notch dishes with one of the best views of the Bosphorus in the city, the award winning wine list must also be mentioned.

Prepared by sommelier Stephane Vattepain, the srikingly tall French gentlemen who appears intermittently with several rounds of wine bottle and decanters in hand, is proud of the list prepared according to import availability. The list is not a list, but more of a book, with pages that not only present the best of Turkey (Vattepain recommends the Turkish-grown Syrah the most), but also travels to Italy, France, Australia, Argentina, Chile and much more.

The menu, both of a Turkish and international persuasion, offers a select multitude of dishes prepared with presentation in mind as much as taste. Beginning with the Truffle Scented Jerusalem Soup, a light green concoction both smooth and rich and overall excellent, the meal began favorably to be continued with a mix of sushi rolls including tuna, salmon, and crawfish tartare.

Our wine was revealed to be a bottle of Prodom, Petit Verdot (2010) grown locally in the Aydın region with an acidity most amenable with the red meat centered main dishes. The highlight of the palate parade was the Bone Marrow Crusted Beef Tenderloin and Foie Gras, that combined perfectly tender meat with a sweet and dark sauce. The last entry was the combination of Saddle of Lamb and Lamb Chops served with eggplant puree and fresh thyme, one last presentation of soft meat coupling with the subtly broiled taste of eggplant.

For dessert, the “Valrhona” Caramel Chocolate Mousse with yoghurt jelly and foam offered a contrasting but equally crispy to smooth ending for a satiating hour. A. Adnan Saygun Caddesi Ulus Parkı İçi; P: (0212) 358 29 29

This is just the type of place where you could easily take visiting guests for a kebab experience that will impress. Indeed, Okka has the menu of a traditional kebab house but with a stylish and sleek décor that is not usually associated with such venues. They even have a resident belly dancer, but Okka’s version is in fact a 3D hologram image reflected in the center of the room, while the marble bar and turquoise tiled walls add to the swank décor.

When it comes to the menu, there is a relatively small meze selection, but they were all very tasty and well done. There are also a couple of different items for those who want to try something unique, like the black eyed peas served with a tahini and mustard sauce, or the julienned celery root served with yogurt sauce. These are all served with delicious freshly baked puffy pide bread.

The menu also offers a number of warm appetizers including grilled Halloumi cheese, steamed pastırma served in parchment paper and mini lahmacun (Turkish flat bread topped with mince, tomato sauce and spices). However, if you would prefer to not fill up before the grilled meat dishes, there are number of excellent salads such as the “Toros” salad of various chopped greens and herbs served with a pomegranate dressing, and çölelekand roka salad in which roka and farmer’s cheese is served on a bed of ribbon thin zucchinis.

Of course the headline attractions are the kebabs, with a wide variety on offer. Along with many classics such as Adana and Urfa kepap, there is also the house specialty of friend semolina stuffed with minced lamb. There are also several chicken options, such as the tavuk şiş (grilled chicken) in which the chicken is marinated, resulting in a juicy and tender kebab served with paper think lavaşbread and grilled tomato and green pepper.

To accompany your meal you can chose from the wine list which is exclusively Turkish, dominated by major local producers, or you can opt to try one of the many rakıs on offer. In fact, Okka offers the unique Self Pour Rakı service which allows you to sample from a range of rakıs without committing to buying the whole bottle, for you only pay for how many servings you consume.

For dessert, the carrot and pistachio baklava comes recommended, as does the rose flavored crème brûlée. For those who want a slightly lighter finish to their meal, the dessert menu also includes date ice cream, Malatya apricot sorbet and tahini helva ice cream, which was divine. More like a full desert, with chunks of helva and a perfect flavor that was not too sweet, this ice cream alone is reason enough for repeat visits.W Hotel Istanbul Süleyman Seba Caddesi 22, Akaretler Beşiktaş; P: (0212) 381 21 89

While Istanbul’s culinary scene has developed in leaps and bounds over recent years, the opening of a new ethnic restaurant is still considerable cause for excitement, with Istanbul residents always keen for new cuisine from other cultures. So when I heard that the reopened Divan Hotel in Elmadağ would include a Japanese restaurant with an authentic menu, my interest was piqued, and I was certainly not disappointed.

Entering the restaurant, you immediately notice the calm and minimal atmosphere created by traditional décor in tones of cream and grey, with colorful accents. There is usually soft reed music playing, which adds to the traditional atmosphere. The service at Maromi is excellent, with the wait staff all very attentive and welltrained, and able to properly answer any questions you may have about the menu, and are also helpful in terms of offering substitutions. As you inspect the menu, you will be given refreshing hot towels scented with jasmine, which makes for a lovely start to your meal.

The head chef here is the Japanese classically trained Kenji Kume, who previously worked with Divan at their Hai!Sushi restaurant, while one of the sous chefs has worked at Nobu in New York. The Maromi menu consists of traditional Japanese dishes rather than the American-style fusion dishes many of us are familiar with. There is a selection of hot and cold appetizers, as well as soups and tempura dishes. For main courses, there are a limited number of meat dishes, as well as a sushi menu, bento boxes, and three different traditional multi-course kaiseki tasting menus available.

I started my meal with a bowl of miso soup, a simple dish that is generally a good test of a restaurant’s kitchen. Maromi’s miso was delicious and flavorful, with lots of layers of subtle flavors, thanks to the tasty dashi stock, and just the right amount of seaweed and tofu. Next we shared a favorite of mine, agedashi tofu, which is deep-fried tofu served in a sauce. For this dish, squares of tofu are thinly battered and deep fried, then served in a dashi (fish stock) broth and topped with grated daikon radish, thinly sliced green onion, and bonito flakes. The agedashi tofu was served with a small tea candle under the dish to keep it warm, and the flavors were balanced perfectly – the batter had just the right level of stretchiness, while the broth was rich and tasty.

As in traditional Japanese restaurants, a great deal of attention is paid to the presentation of the dishes, which are all served on beautiful plates and arranged just so. For my main meal, I selected one of the bento box meals, which offered a variety of small dishes. These included tempura vegetables and prawns, and a hearty tuna croquette served with a nice sauce. Another hot item was a fried salmon croquette with boiled egg and root vegetables, served in a clear broth. There was also a pickled cabbage side dish which I expected to be a bit like Korean kimchi, but in fact the flavors were much softer and sweeter, making this great for cleansing your palette between dishes.

While all the small hot dishes were enjoyable, the highlight was certainly the sushi and maki, which was very fresh and tender, with great, subtle flavors. My companion had several maki rolls, which were all equally tasty. One with barbequed eel and cucumbers was creamy and literally melted in the mouth, while the pickled vegetables and salmon skin rolls also packed a big flavor punch.

To end our meal, we had real green-tea ice cream served with a side sauce of red bean paste. For those who are not familiar with Japanese desserts this may sound a bit odd, but trust me — it is really delicious. Maromi’s version had just the right texture, and the slight graininess that you taste when it is made with real green tea.

Maromi offers an excellent dining experience, with high-quality food in a low-key and pleasant atmosphere. It is a wonderful addition to Istanbul’s culinary scene, and well worth repeated visits.Divan Hotel, Askerocağı Caddesi No.1 Şişli, Elmadağ; P: (0212) 315 55 00

Located on a downward sloping street behind the opulent Galatasaray High School in Beyoğlu, Münferit rises out of the unevenly cobblestoned street with a fully gray art-deco-like demeanor. As much as the exterior is reminiscient of an old locomotive or Fritz Lang’s Metropolis, the interior is New York’s Lower East Side with flickering candles illuminating a small and cozy bar on the top floor and a romantically narrow bottom floor with white table cloths and floor to ceiling glass cabinets displaying bottles of Beylerbeyi Rakı. The temporary 30-something inhabitants that dine downstairs or sip away on cocktails upstairs either display a spectrum of international accents tracing their English sentences or are the kind of fur-coat-vest tight-skinny-jeans-wearing Turkish youth that one usually doesn’t see in daylight hours.

We arrived at 8pm and chose to begin the evening with the starter composed of feta cheese, porcini mushrooms, and truffle oil and after some struggle with the paper in which it was cocooned, the slightly salty yet inherently smooth cheese made a good first impression. The highlight of the evening, however, was the squid ink couscous and calamari dish, a plate of black glistening pearls of couscous with fresh bits of fried calamari lying seductively curled on top, the only disappointing aspect being that I had to share it with the friend I was dining with. The main course of lamb shank accompanied by eggplant rice was also a worthy candidate because of its tender ways with a hint of eggplant flavor in the rice. Even though we were surrounded by Rakı bottles we chose to open a wine of Graffigna Malbec, a heavy red wine, the first sip of which always seems to untangle the emotional knots acquired in daily life. The warmth of the red wine was only enhanced further by Çikolatalı Lokma(Turkish donut with chocolate), giving way to a small palatal implosion of melted dark chocolate hidden in the soft exterior of the lokma.

Closed on Sundays, the restaurant’s kitchen is open until 11:30pm, at which point the entire space turns into a bar that’s open until 2am. The sound of the subtle lounge and chillout music from dinner time increases in volume and at times turns into rock to the joy of the slightly inebriated but equally stylish crowd. Make sure to call in advance for that reservation.

Münferit, Yeni Çarşı Caddesi No. 1; P: (0212) 252 50 67

What probably will strike you about this cafe to begin with are the toys and design objects spread around the cafe. There are cute pillows, toys, board games on sale here.But it’s not just about shopping at Mavra - it’s also about the food. Mavra’s menu is quite diverse and interesting, featuring Turkish, Mexican, and Italian specialties. You’ll find a long list of breakfast options that are strictly Turkish (except for the muesli) and features the classic platter varieties that include cheese, olives, honey, kaymak (Turkish clotted cream), and eggs. Those who are in for a quick bite can pick something from the sandwiches or the finger food, and those in for more of a sit-down lunch will find something that will satisfy their hunger.

On a recent visit, we had what’s called Kapalı Zarf, which literally means closed envelope, and stands for a very tasty tortilla. You can get it with vegetables or with chicken. We had the one with chicken and it did really look like a closed triangular envelope filled with spices, sautéed vegetables, melted cheddar cheese, and chicken. For those looking for something light, there is also a good salad selection – with tuna, chicken, cheese, wheat, or strictly greens.

Our second dish was from the pasta section and was called Mütevazi, which literally means humble. And it’s quite the right word to describe the dish – it’s a spaghetti dish made with tomatoes, olives, cheese, and basil. Humble, simple, and simply delicious. The mains are meat focused, featuring two kinds of meatballs, burger, a hard-to-fing pork sausage, and tacos (simply referred to as Meksikalı, which means Mexican). This is a spicy dish, so beware (especially of the Jalapenos). The tacos are filled with black beans and sautéed minced meat – you could say that it’s a classic chili con carne served in a crispy open sandwich.

We didn’t get to try dessert, but they do have a few on the menu. Whether for tea, coffee, a quick bite, or a relatively longer lunch, Mavra is a great spot to stop by when in Galata.

Mavra, Serdar-ı Ekrem Caddesi No. 31/A, Galata; P: (0212) 252 74 88

Auf’s kitchen is in the hands of the ladies who create the delicacies at Backyard - Zeynep Moroğlu and Esra Muslu. Here, they’ve put together a healthy lunch menu and an open-buffet right by the window that attracts the attention of passers-by on Meşrutiyet Caddesi. Zeynep’s delicious desserts adorn the counter on one side, pulling in all the I-can’t-resist-dessert kind of people, while the other side of the counter filled with Esra’s creations pulls in anyone looking for a healthy, delicious lunch.

The open-buffet, which offers a variety of dishes that changes based on the season, included green lentil salad, beetroot salad, roasted pumpkin, mücver (vegetable patty), pickles, roast beef, roasted root vegetables, as well as cupcakes, brownies, irmik helvası (semolina halvah), muffins, kabak tatlısı (pumpkin dessert), and much more mouthwatering dishes and desserts.

In addition to the open-buffet, there is also a set lunch menu, which includes sandwiches (with vegetables, smoked entrecote, and smoked turkey), and mains like stuffed cabbage with minced meat, grilled meatballs with pistachio, lamb shank with eggplant purée, ravioli, steamed Turkmen-style mantı (dumpling), and stuffed eggplant.

On a recent visit, we had the beetroot salad (a mix of greens, beetroot, parmesan, grilled zucchini and carrots, and pine nuts), which was a light and tasty dish to start with. The grilled meatballs, served with plain rice, were cooked just right, and had a nice sweet flavor to them. We also had a serving of roasted pumpkin as well as a slice of delicious mushroom pie.

Overall, Auf offers a nice, calm, sincere atmosphere for a healthy and quick lunch. It’s also a nice option for those who need a tête-à-tête over a cup of tea and a slice of tasty dessert. So we suggest you put Auf on your radar, and stop by next time you’re in Pera.

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The Creators of the Organic Backyard: Zeynep Moroğlu and Esra Muslu; by Talya Arditi

Sıdıka is truly one of those fabled places that you could pass by a dozen times without noticing. Located on a somewhat colorless stretch of Şair Nedim Caddesi (midway between the fancy row houses of Akaretler and the fancy Ihlamur Kasrı of Dikilitaş), the restaurant, run by eponymous owner Sıdıka Hanım, is an unexpected delight in an unexpected location.

The restaurant is small (seating approximately 40 people) with a friendly, intimate atmosphere. The day’s menu is written on a chalkboard in front, and Sıdıka Hanım frequently makes the rounds of her customers, chatting with them and providing information about what is on the menu. Sıdıka is normally only open for dinner, except for Fridays, when it also serves lunch.

It would be a crime to come to Sıdıka only to order köfte, as the restaurant is known for the quality and variety of the seafood and meze which take up most of its menu. These two categories overlap to a great extent, with cold meze like hardal soslu uskumru (mackerel in mustard sauce), levrek marine (marinated sea bass), and tarama (fish roe salad), as well as hot seafood appetizers like kalamar tava (fried calamari), tereyağda karides (shrimps in butter), and ahtapot ızgara (grilled octopus). The last item is especially recommended. Coming from Cunda Island in the Aegean, the octopus is extremely tender (without the rubbery texture that octopus often has) and tastes faintly of barbecued chicken.

The main fish courses are equally accomplished. In addition to the fish of the day, you can find grilled levrek (sea bass) and çipura (sea bream) on the menu. However, on your first visit, you ought to try Sıdıka’s signature dish, asma yaprağında levrek(sea bass wrapped in grape leaves). While “grape leaves” might call to mind the popular Turkish/Mediterranean meze known as yaprak sarma, here they have a crackly, papery consistency like the dried seaweed used in Japanese cooking – a perfect textural balance to the tender fish meat inside. Sıdıka’s pungent, tomato-flavored fish soup (available on Friday only) is also excellent, and is a great way to whet your appetite before moving on to meze and main courses.

On this note, it should be said that Sıdıka Hanım is extremely conscientious about environmental issues when it comes to fish. A sign prominently displayed on the wall of the restaurant announces that çinekop and sarıkanat (immature bluefish which have not reached spawning age) are not on the menu of this establishment. Sıdıka Hanım is also a devotee of the Slow Food movement; those who are curious to learn more about Slow Food can pick up a book on the subject from the restaurant.

Mention should also be made of a few other meze: a delicious, rich fava bean puree (think fava-hummus) and – even more delicious – Sıdıka’s fıstıklı peynir, a garlicky mixture of pistachio and feta cheese. If you run out of bread with which to scoop it up, you’ll probably start shoveling it away with your fork – it’s that good.

Sıdıka serves over a dozen kinds of red and white wine (available by the bottle or the glass) plus rakı and imported beer. With an atmospheric yet unobtrusive soundtrack of soft jazz music, the restaurant is ideally suited to conversation. The next time you find yourself in Akaretler (or indeed in Beşiktaş), you’re urged to take a stroll up Şair Nedim Caddesi and pay a visit to Sıdıka.

Sıdıka, Şair Nedim Caddesi No.38, Beşiktaş; P:(0212) 259 72 32

Redemption, salvation, nirvana or whatever it is that you use to refer to the state of feeling pure joy is, unlike others argue, easily reachable. Just cross the street from the Ulus exit of Akmerkez and at the helm of the Yeni Yol is ZerafEt – the temple where prayers come true in the form of kebabs.

We weren’t aware but we (one vegetarian-prone and two meat-loving members of The Guide Istanbul) were in for a feast at Zerafet – a feast that was first for the eyes then for the stomach.

It all started very innocently with a bowl of soup: the yuvalama çorbası, which is basically yayla çorbası on steroids, is a yogurt-based soup with chickpeas, bits of lamb, tiny gnocchi-like dough balls, and mint. After this light introduction, the army of cold and hot starters made their way onto our table.

My first tasting was the muammara, a definite must-try for anyone remotely aroused by spicy food. Made with walnuts, garlic, red pepper paste, and bread crumbs, this paste is best enjoyed by spreading over the piping hot lavaş-like bread. The only warning necessary is this: make sure that you’ve got one foot near the brakes because you’ll need to restrain yourself if you want to leave space for what is to come.

And what comes after will be just as good as that first feisty plate.

The tabouleh, for instance, is quite special not just because it tasted delicious but also because it’s an uniquely presented feast for the eyes. Comfortably seated within a mussel-shaped lettuce leaf, the salad was topped with hot pink colored pomegranate seeds. Once sprinkled with a generous amount of nar ekşisi (pomegranate molasses), you get a mammoth-sized yum.

In fact, pomegranate seeds and nar ekşisi are the secret ingredients that carry the dishes at ZerafEt to the finish line, especially the salads, which are surprisingly comparable to the meats dishes. There is the glorious Antep pirpirim salatası, made with fresh purslane, fresh onions, cucumber, green olives, tomato, sumac, flaked red pepper, oregano, dry mint, and topped with virgin olive oil and nar ekşisi. Our favorite salad was the çingene salatası (which literally means gypsy salad). It is made with a mix of 14 different greens (that change seasonally), and included rocket, pirpirim (wild purslane), basil, cucumber, beetroot, pomegranate seeds, green onions, lolorosso, topped with virgin olive oil, nar ekşisi, and lemon. Legume lovers can confidently order the börülce salatası, a mix of black-eyed peas, fresh onions, cucumber, and capsicum.

We moved on from inventively fresh salads to classic Turkish legends starting with lahmacun. This Turkish specialty is often referred to as Turkish pizza due to its round shape. This lahmacun, however, doesn’t resemble the typical lahmacun or even the best one you’ve claimed to have so far. The awe-inspiring amount of topping takes over the crust, which literally makes you wonder whether both sides of the dough are covered with minced meat and spices. This ideal mix of crunchiness, softness, and flavor can only be defined as the best lahmacun I’ve ever had. The only trick is to eat it while it’s hot. And the same goes for the pastırmalı humus (hummus with cured beef). Even though this dish is notorious for being overwhelmingly oily and heavy, here it somehow feels deceptively light. The secret is that the butter is sprinkled on before the humus makes its way into the oven, and so it takes on a bread-crumb-like texture. Salivating yet?

We know you are. Now, let’s get into the mains.

We had Ali Nazik, sebzeli kebap, and terbiyeli kuzu şiş, and they were all separately delightful. The Ali Nazik came with a bed of haşhaş kebabı (a kebab style hailing from Urfa) lying innocently on top of a sea of chargrilled eggplant, yogurt, and garlic mix. The sebzeli kebap, which is a specialty of ZerafEt (to be honest, pretty much all we had here tasted like a specialty), is supposed to be eaten wrapped in the soft and hot lavaş bread. All the mains were the I-can’t-help-but-go-for-another-bite kind, but the winner for me was the terbiyeli kuzu şiş simply because of the silky smooth meat. Cutting the meat was like drawing a tulle curtain. Absolute must-have for spicy food lovers!

Although we were quite full by the end of our meal, I for a fact knew that I couldn’t leave ZerafEt without trying katmer. On a separate but important note, the restaurant feels nothing like a typical kebab eatery: the décor is quite modern featuring pink, brown, and white; the venue smells of flowers not meat; lots of sunlight comes through the floor-to-ceiling windows that show off the green garden; and the soft instrumental music just adds that final touch. The wait staff, it must be noted, adds a few stars to this establishment with their knowledge, eagerness to help, and sincerity.

Now, back to the katmer. This mouse-pad sized, square Antep specialty is a heavenly dessert that is made of very thin baklava dough, kaymak (Turkish clotted cream), covered with a generous bed of crumbled pistachios, and served with vanilla ice-cream.

Finishing this meal is like the reading the last pages of a great novel, except that you can revisit it any time you want and my take is that every time will feel like the first.

ZerafEt, Adnan Saygun Caddesi Leylah Apartmanı No.1 14/B, Ulus; P: (0212) 352 60 75

After a long renovation process, Emporio Armani Cafe was reincarnated as Emporio Armani Ristorante last month with a simple yet very Italian concept: live well and eat well. And that, in sum, is the experience offered by Emporio Armani Ristorante.

First of all, it’s the decor that catches you off guard – walking into such an elegant atmosphere within a shopping mall is quite surprising. And that’s why, once you enter through the doors of the restaurant, you feel you’re no longer at İstinyePark but at a fancy restaurant in, say, Milan, surrounded by talkative businesspeople, ladies-who-lunch, and anyone who appreciates good taste.

And good taste is the only thing you’ll find on your plate here – you’re in very good hands! The kitchen is under the command of award-winning Turkish and international chefs. Executive Chef Yener Özden is a member of the World Association of Chefs Societies, the winner of more than 40 medals from gastronomic competitions, and one of the representatives of the slow food movement. Sous-Chef Musa Şener is the chief assistant of the Turkish National Culinary Team. The restaurant’s Chef de Cuisine is Cristiano Cameli, who laid the groundwork for the Emporio Armani Ristorante with his expertise in pastas, risottos, and original Italian flavors.

The Özden-Şener-Cameli team aims not to create Turkified versions of Italian dishes, but to offer a truly authentic Italian experience. And that is evident in the first minutes of the experience as the expertly-informed wait staff asks whether we’d like to have still or sparkling water. Molto buono!

The menu, which changes every three months based on seasonal ingredients and the chefs’ inspirations, is a combination of traditional Italian and modern Mediterranean dishes, all made from the freshest, purest, highest quality ingredients. When we had lunch with the restaurant’s manager Mustafa Apak last week, we started off with an Insalata di Gamberetti – prawns deep fried in five grains served with mixed greens in olive oil and lemon sauce. Crunchy on the outside, juicy on the inside, the prawns were impeccable, and perfectly balanced off by the fresh salad. Did I mention the thin focaccia bread that we savored while waiting for our antipasti?

Following the prawns, we had the gooey Risotto Ai Funghi Porcini (Risotto with Porcini Mushrooms), which comes highly recommended by Chef Cameli. We chose Tonno Scottato (Tuna Steak with Red Onions Cooked in Balsamic Reduction) as our secondo piatto. This dish is a rare find in Istanbul and definitely a winner at Emporio Armani Ristorante.

We had a glorious ending to our meal with a dessert platter of Panna Cotta, Bavarese (Bavarian White Chocolate), and a delicious Tiramisu. The dessert platter truly summarizes what it means to live well and eat well. We suggest you give it a try ASAP.

After dessert, you may want to head over to the outdoor dining area on the second floor (where a vertical garden is in the works). Pick a glass of wine (or a bottle) from the extensive wine list, with a focus on Turkish and Italian wines, or take a look at the bar menu, which includes a range of whiskeys, cognacs, grappas, and digestives as well as cocktails. The best part? You can enjoy your drink with a fine cigar that you pick from the menu (maybe a Hupman 60 or Cohiba Exquisitos?) on the terrace overlooking the crème de la crème strutting their stuff from Dior to Louis Vuitton.

Emporio Armani Ristorante, İstinyePark Shopping Mall, İstinye Bayırı Caddesi No. 73, İsinye; P: (0212) 345 61 40

The menu at Morro is solidly Italian, no fusion twists or surprises here, but rather just what you would expect at one of Istanbul’s classic Italian restaurants. Instead of importing ingredients from Italy, Morro instead focuses on getting the freshest local ingredients that are in season in Turkey. They freshly bake their own bread sticks and tasty tomato and whole grain breads, and have a wood burning pizza oven.

Appetizers include grilled asparagus, a cheese and prosciutto plate, and various salads, topped with goat’s cheese, grilled chicken, or sea bass. Main courses include rosemary chicken, grilled seafood skewers and sirloin steak, and sea bass cooked in beet leaves (a very popular option). Pasta dishes include linguine with seafood, a four cheese tortellini, and saffron risotto.

With a wood burning oven at the back, it comes as no surprise that the restaurant’s specialty is pizza, with a wide selection offering something for everyone, including some with a clear Turkish influence. Toppings include a range of cheeses and vegetables, smoked meat, smoked cheese, olives, and caramelized onions. There are also a few that offer prosciutto, cotto ham, and chorizo for those who really enjoy their pork products.

Wanting to leave room for all three courses, we decided to start our meal with a simple salad of arugula, tomatoes, and parmesan cheese. I had the daily special, which was the vegetarian lasagna with spinach and goat’s cheese. While it was very hearty and tasty, the lack of tomato sauce made the dish more reminiscent of a cross between lasagna and a Turkish börek than traditional Italian lasagna. My companion had the Pizza Pidos, a simple pizza with tomato sauce, mozzarella, and chargrilled eggplant. The crust was pleasantly thin and crispy while the eggplant had a nice smoky flavor, particularly when complimented with a dash of hot sauce.

The dessert menu once again offers a selection of Italian classics, such as Panna Cotta, Tiramisu and Napoleone. We made a delicious end to our meal with the chocolate soufflé, which was rich and decadent, served with vanilla ice-cream, as well as a portion of orange-chocolate and raspberry ice-cream, which comes from Cremeria Milano.

Morro is a nice addition to this rapidly developing neighborhood, a good option where you can enjoy a nice Italian meal in a warm and welcoming setting without breaking the bank.Kumbaracı Yokuşu No.66 Tünel; P:(0212) 292 25 50

Located on Top of the Ceylan InterContinental Hotel, City Lights Restaurant & Bar manages to combines a fine dining restaurant and a sophisticated bar in one elegant space. Upon entering City Lights, the first thing that strikes you is the stunning panoramic view of the Bosphorus. While there are many outstanding views of the Bosphorus, this one is particularly noteworthy for its unique angle, granting the viewer a whole new perspective. The venue has recently undergone a complete renovation and total makeover of the menu. The interior features a sleek and futuristic design by architect Iraz Kutlar - the ribbed wood design makes you feel as if you are inside a ship or maybe even a giant whale, and the black lacquered tables and modern furniture has all been custom made for the venue.

The menu is refined, offering haute cuisine, and it is clear that a lot of thought has been put into each plate. When it comes to the dishes, they are all beautifully plated, almost like works of art, and are all very well executed. I started my meal with the excellent Grouper Carpaccio with Vanilla. This dish was extremely well balanced, the Carpaccio was melt-in-your-mouth tender, while the vanilla flavour and accompanying herbs and yuzu sauce were all very subtle. Meanwhile, my companion started with the Goat Cheese with Tomato Confit, a rich dish with a ball of fresh and creamy goats cheese wrapped in tomato confit and served with caramelised beetroot and a balsamic vinegar sauce.

The main course options include Organic Duck Breast served with Damson plum purree, Jumbo Shrimp with pumpkin cream, Lobster Back and Medallion of Beef. While these are all very tempting, I could not resist another dish from the appetizer menu: the homemade lobster Ravioli, an indulgent dish with chunks of lobster in a rich and creamy sauce. My companion had the Lamb Rib Eye, a luscious dish reflecting a strong Moroccan influence with the over roasted lamb served with vegetable couscous, slow cooked apricots and aubergine cream.

After such an impressive meal, we could not resist dessert. There are a number of ambitious dishes on the dessert menu which includes Date Ice Cream, and Mascarpone Cheese & Raspberry Ice Cream and someunusual flavor pairings, such as the Olive Oil Chocolate Mousse. Certainly the most memorable was the Melon and Rakı sorbet, which had just the right combination of sweetness and tanginess, and was very enjoyable even if you are not a regular rakı drinker. With the combination of the superb view, excellent cuisine and sophisticated ambiance, a night at City Lights is truly a night to remember. City Lights Restaurant & Bar;Ceylan InterContinental Istanbul Asker Ocağı Caddesi No. 1 Taksim; P:(0212) 368 44 44

The décor in the restaurant is very minimal and spare, contrasting with the classic architecture of the building itself, which was designed by architect Alexandre Vallaury and opened in 1892 as the official state bank of the Ottoman Empire. The restaurant’s modern interior was designed by Han Tümertekin, one of Turkey’s most acclaimed architects, and is spread across two floors, with a café section downstairs and a more formal restaurant upstairs. In the cafe cool grey tones dominate, with marble floors, lights hanging from tubes, and a wall full of books behind Plexiglas – the collection of the late artist, writer, curator Hüseyin Bahri Alptekin. The slightly cold feel is lightened up a bit by the warm wood furniture and large staircase leading up to the more formal dining room with sweeping views across the Golden Horn.

When it comes to the food, the menu offers a little bit of everything, without overextending itself. The breakfast offerings are mostly traditional Turkish, while the rest of the menu veers a bit more towards fusion, such as the Hamsi Tava (fried anchovies) which are served with a harissa aioli sauce or the Pide with roast beef. The menu includes a selection of sandwiches and pide, mains such as eggplant gratin, fish and chips, schnitzel and köfte, as well as salads. On a recent visit I opted for the crispy risotto with tomato for a starter, which had a nice and crunchy texture and deep flavor. For the main I had the grilled calamari salad in which the calamari is served cut into very thin strips on a bed of ribbon thin zucchini, grilled red and yellow peppers and mesclun salad, topped with pesto and toasted hazelnuts, a very successful dish with layers of flavors and textures.

Given the limited size of the menu, there dessert list is surprisingly long, and again offers a number of Turkish items with a twist, such as the kadayif with caramelized pumpkin. I ordered a classic European dessert, the Mont Blanc, which came served on a very large plate with ice cream and crushed pistachio on one side and the chestnut puree and meringues on the other - very delicious when eaten all together. With a many tempting and interesting looking items on the menu, Ca`d`Oro makes for an ideal break before taking in the artwork at SALT Galata. Ca'd'oro;SALT Galata, Bankalar Caddesi No.11 Karaköy; P:(0212) 243 82 92

Located on a small street behind the Karaköy shipping docks right next to Lokanta Maya, Karaköy Lokantası is one such restaurant. The major differences between Karaköy Lokantası and regular tradesmen’s restaurants are that at Karaköy Lokantası the interior is upscale, the food is lighter, alcohol is served, and you can sip your espresso after lunch. Possibly the most striking detail about the restaurant’s interior is that all the tables are covered with white tablecloths. White tablecloths are often found at expensive, upper-scale restaurants that offer “serious” food—not Turkish home-cooking at least. But the addition of white tablecloths here is quite refreshing, and pays respect to the intricate flavors of Turkish cuisine.

Housed in a beautiful old building and spread over two floors, the restaurant’s interior is quite unique, featuring checkered floors, walls covered with turquoise tiles, and a wrought iron staircase. The décor carries a very modern love-it-or-hate-it feel, sprinkled with an Ottoman touch, and the restaurant feels very homey.

The warm atmosphere is probably due to owner Oral Bey’s passion for creating a restaurant that not only serves great food but also offers a friendly environment. In fact, he knows the names of almost everyone that walks through the front door and he takes the time to chat with all of them. And you can tell by Oral Bey’s interaction with the customers that they have talked many times before. That’s because Karaköy Lokantası is always filled with its frequenters.

The food at Karaköy Lokantası is even more impressive than the atmosphere. The lunch menu changes daily, but always features classic Turkish dishes. On a recent visit, we had a chance to sample quite a few dishes. The chicken soup that we started off with was quite tasty, perfect for those who want to warm up on a cold autumn day.Theetli lahana dolması(stuffed cabbage leaves with meat), served with yogurt, was nicely done. We also hadpatlıcan salatası(eggplant salad) followed by a platter ofköfte(meatballs),ciğer(liver), and eggplant puree. The thinly sliced, perfectly grilled liver and the creamy eggplant puree were the highlights of our lunch.

Keep in mind that dinner is an entirely different story at Karaköy Lokantası, which is a tradesmen’s restaurant by day and Turkish tavern by night, offering a set menu of mezes, meat, and fish.

Karaköy Lokantası; Kemankeş Caddesi No. 37A, Karaköy; P: (0212) 292 44 55

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A Salute to Istanbul's Tradesmen's Restaurants; by Vildan Yahni

Located on a narrow street in Sirkeci, Şehzade Cağ Kebabı is a humble restaurant spread over two floors and a few tables outside by the entrance. Their specialty is a regional kebab variety from the eastern city of Erzurum called cağ kebabı. Made from lamb, the meat is marinated with onion, salt, and pepper for a few hours, and then cooked over wood fire. Even though it looks like the horizontal version of döner (roasted lamb) that you see everywhere in the city—and in fact it is also referred to as such—cağ kebabı is much more flavorful and delicious than the ordinary vertical döner.

The meat is served with homemade lavaş (thin flatbread) or in a sandwich, but owner Özcan Yıldırım, who is a native of Erzurum, insists that the only way to eat cağ kebabı is straight from the skewer. This would be almost self-explanatory if we only knew Azerbaijani, as cağ means skewer in Azerbaijani.

Yıldırım has been in the cağ kebab business for 34 years, having operated restaurants in a variety of neighborhoods in Istanbul as well as in his hometown Erzurum. He is passionate about what he does and is very selective when it comes to the meat he uses, insisting that only the freshest meat will give the kebab the flavor that makes cağ kebabı so legendary. That’s why he buys seasonal meat from different regions, such as the Thrace region, Balıkesir-Gönen, Ankara, and Tokat.

Rest assured that the meat here, even though made from lamb, is odorless, juicy, tender, and delicious. No need for fancy sauces to give it flavor.

At Şehzade Cağ Kebabı, the only things on the menu, except for the kebab, are manda yoğurdu (yogurt), acılı ezme (spicy paste), and çoban salatası (shepherd’s salad)—all of which compliment the meat perfectly. Especially the yogurt, which is brought all the way from Aydınlıköy near Düzce in the Black Sea region, comes highly recommended as it is a much thicker and tastier variety. The shepherd’s salad and acılı ezme (made with tomato, onion, pepper, and cucumber) are also very fresh and tasty. A meal at this restaurant is only complete with another Erzurum specialty—the kadayıflı dolma, a dessert filled with walnuts, wrapped with shredded pastry, and dipped in syrup.

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An Istanbul Classic: Hamdi Restaurant; by Will Washburn

Cihangir is home to the cool, the artsy, and the expat. Located on one of its liveliest streets is Journey—a recently-opened, cozy restaurant, only a few steps away from Smyrna on Akarsu Caddesi.

Journey reflects the character of the neighborhood that it’s located in: international, modern, cozy, and laid-back—just like Cihangir. During my first visit there—and I’ve already been three times this month—I was taken aback by the décor, which makes you feel as if you’ve mistakenly stepped into someone’s home.

With comfy sofas, coffee tables, bookshelves filled with interesting books and magazines, Journey is truly a home away from home. And, accordingly so, both first-time customers and regulars feel relaxed and at ease.

Both floors of this restaurant feature a similar style; the entrance floor boasts an open kitchen, an American-style-kitchen-turned-into-a-bar, and several small wooden tables with colorful chairs. Upstairs is even more lounge-like, featuring a couple of large sofas, coffee tables, and a communal table. The large green plants and wall decorations add that last personal touch to Journey.

The venue is often filled with familiar faces from Turkish TV shows and the big screen, as well as expats and locals who have apparently made Journey their second home. By the looks of it, many are comfortable bringing their laptop along, sitting on sofas, and working or chilling out for several hours at once.

The lounge and chill out music, which includes some surprising choices (like the Japanese song that I listened to on my first visit) is soothing and comforting, ideal for letting you sit back, relax, and enjoy the ride.

Contrary to the serenity of the atmosphere, Journey’s food is quite invigorating. There is something for everyone on the menu, from classic Turkish home-cooked meals with a twist to homemade pastas and pizzas, salads, and meat dishes. They even have a breakfast plate with English scones served with jams. An easy choice for anyone looking to treat themselves with a late breakfast or brunch on a lazy Sunday.

During the few times that I went to Journey, I had the chance to try many different dishes from the menu. The fırında ballı kuzu budu (roasted lamb shank with honey) and dana pirzola (beef chops) were both juicy and tender. The beef chops came with an addictive side of mashed potatoes with mustard, while the lamb shank was served with home-made french fries, just like your mom used to make when you were little, and vegetables. But when I say vegetables, I don’t mean the boring boiled broccoli and carrots. I mean creamy zucchini flower, beans, and zuchini.

It certainly isn’t all about the meat at Journey. The çimlendirilmiş mercimekli ılık patates salatası (warm potato salad with sprouted lentils) is, quite frankly, the best salad I’ve had in a very long time. You’ll find salads with lentils in a lot of restaurants in Istanbul but you’ll rarely come across sprouted lentils, which are so very energizing. The addition of rocket, cress, and fresh coriander makes the salad much tastier and a lot less like your ordinary greens.

Another winner was the ev usülü yaprak sarma (home-made stuffed vine leaves). Even though the traditional recipe includes meat, the Journey version was vegetarian-friendly, filled only with rice and spices. The elegantly rolled stuffed vine leaves is a great fins but vegetarians as well as meat-lovers who are highly likely to go back for more.

Speaking of vegetables, the less healthy but similarly appetizing option is the fıstıklı sebze ve bulgur pilavı (vegetables and bulgur rice with pine nuts). If you don’t mind the extra oil in your diet, definitely go for this dish, which comes with fried eggplant and zucchini, pine nuts, basil, and goat cheese.

The menu doesn’t include a long list of starters, but if you’re going with a large group or if you’re not that hungry, go for one of the charcuterie plates—I strongly suggest şarküteri II, which comes with bresaola, parmesan, pickles, olive pesto, tomato pesto, avocado dip, and peasant bread from Bolu. The breads, by the way, are made partly in house and some are brought from Bolu. They all taste great, but try not to fill yourself up too much before your meal comes. You can also share one of the delicious pizzas. The keçi peyniri, fesleğen pesto, domates, roka (goat cheese, basil pesto, tomato, and rocket) pizza is a great option.

Altough Journey is strictly a restaurant, meaning it doesn’t turn into a bar after hours like many of Istanbul’s restaurants, their cocktails are delicious. Journey could be your new stop before you head down to Kiki or another Cihangir bar.

While I very much enjoy Turkish food, it is only on rare occasions that I get particularly excited about a Turkish restaurant. So I knew, when I could not stop raving about Nar Lokanta to anyone who would listen, that I had come across a very special place indeed. Nar Gourmet’s first restaurant venture, Nar Lokanta is housed in the building of luxury retailer Armaggan. Located in the heart of Sultanahmet by the Grand Bazaar’s Nuruosmaniye gate, it is truly a sight to behold, with seven floors that include shops, an art gallery, a café, and, of course, Nar Lokanta.

Nar Gourmet specializes in all-natural regional products from throughout Anatolia. Nar Lokanta offers a platform from which to showcase these products as well as excellent Anatolian cuisine. This restaurant specializes in traditional Turkish food at its freshest and lightest, run by the team that used to manage the Feriye restaurant, including chef Vedat Başaran.

Once you’ve entered Armaggan’s stunning showroom and made your way past all the gorgeous jewelry and home art, the elevator takes you up to the fifth floor, where the restaurant is located. The atmosphere here is fairly formal, but not stuffy. The décor inside is very classic, featuring lots of marble and paintings by contemporary Turkish artists. At the back of the restaurant there are beautiful turquoise tiles surrounding the traditional stone oven where they bake their fresh pide bread. The most striking aspect of the décor is the vertical garden at the back of the restaurant. Hanging down to the floor below, covering two stories of the building, the various plants and flowers form an undulating pattern: a living work of art. There is also a large terrace surrounded by plants and ivy, with a gentle breeze keeping things cool.

The menu features familiar Turkish classics as well as a number of less common regional dishes, covering everything from Ottoman palace dishes to humble village fare. All dishes are prepared using Nar’s own olive oils, which have exceptionally low acidity, giving them a very pure and almost sweet flavor. While Nar Gourmet offers olive oils from all over Turkey, their most popular variety comes from the Ayvalık region on the Aegean coast, widely considered to be the best area in the country for olives.

Our meal started with a basket of their freshly baked bread, including the light and fluffy pide. This was served with a selection of Nar’s olive oils, including variations infused with flavors such as red pepper, and some aromatic herbs, such as dried mint and oregano, for sprinkling. Along with the bread came a small creamy ball of something that looked and tasted rather like cheese, but was actually made from strained yoghurt.

To accompany the range of Turkish cuisine is an extensive wine list that exclusively features Turkish wines, including a number of bottles from boutique vineyards. The mezeson offer include a variety of regional olive oil dishes, while the mains focus on lamb and beef, with a couple of chicken dishes also on the menu.

Not being a big red-meat eater, I decided to sample a few of the mezes and warm starters for my meal. These included the maş piyazı, a light and simple dish of mung beans with fresh onions and herbs, dressed with a pomegranate sauce that gave it a wonderful tangy flavor. The çerkez tavukis another classic, and was light and flavorful. For hot starters, we also selected the sembusek, a pide stuffed with cheese and tarragon leaves, with a slightly sweet finish. To round off my meal, I ordered the saray mantı, a traditional dish of little dumplings stuffed with spiced meat, served with a sauce of butter and garlic yogurt, and topped with a generous dusting of dried mint, sumac, and red chili flakes: the ultimate comfort food. Meanwhile, my companion had the beğendili kebab, a classic Turkish dish in which chunks of beef are stewed in a tomato sauce and served on a bed of eggplant puree. Nar’s beğendıwas perfectly smoky and creamy, making it the ideal base for the tender pieces of meat.

After such a hearty meal we had little room for desert, but could not resist Nar’s version of şekerpare, which was prepared with poppy seeds that added an unusual flavor twist and was accompanied by Turkish coffee and fig-flavored lokum. While everything we ate was delicious, we found that the simplest foods, such as the breads and olive oils, made the biggest impression on us. With its deliciously light Turkish fare, excellent service, and tasteful setting, Nar Lokanta has filled a real gap in the market, as there are not many places in this area where you can enjoy a high-quality meal in an upmarket setting — and at reasonable prices, no less. Given this long list of positive attributes, Nar Lokanta has now made it to the top of my list of places to visit when in the Sultanahmet area.

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Nar Lokanta;Armaggan, Nuruosmaniye Caddesi No.65 5th Floor; P:(0212) 522 28 00

At Sur Balik you can dine on Turkish seafood and meze classics, such as tender salted bonito, served with fresh red onion slices and seasonal salad while enjoying the beautiful view and Bosphorus breeze. But if you are in the mood for something different, you won’t be disappointed. They also offer a range of classic Turkish dishes but with a seafood twist, as well as a number of unusual items that you won’t likely find anywhere else.

A real stand-out is the sea bass in fresh pesto sauce (levrek fesleğen), a dish that is bursting with flavor and will surely leave you wanting more. The Swiss chard stuffed with fish (pazı sarma), and the fish balls (balık köfte) are both an interesting and light take on Turkish standards. While balık mantı, might sound odd, the result is surprisingly tasty, as these fish-filled dumplings are, just like the original, slathered in a garlic-yogurt sauce and dusted with herbs.

Meanwhile, if its more standard seafood meal that you’re in the mood for, there is plenty on offer. The grilled octopus is very tender and highly recommended, or any of the fresh fish of the day. A great accompaniment to a seafood meal is their salad with ruby red tomatoes and wilted onions that is incredibly juicy and flavorful (surprisingly, soy sauce is the secret ingredient). To end the meal, again you can chose go with a more classic item, like the volcanic chocolate cake, which spews a rich warm chocolate filling. Or you can try something different, like the profiteroles served with a tahini sauce.

Having established a strong following with their branch in Sarayburnu over the past five years, the Arnavutköy location is their second location, which they are now expanding having taken over the building next door. With plans to open a third location on the Golden Horn before the end of the year, Sur Balik is quickly rising in the ranks of city’s favorite seafood restaurants.

The Galata Evi, a small restaurant near the Galata Tower with excellent home-cooked food, can boast a unique location, being situated in the building known as the Eski İngiliz Karakolu or Old English Jail. For 15 years, beginning in 1904, this was a civil prison controlled by the British; after the first World War it turned into a military prison and remained such until 1923.

And yet this solemn gray stone building, with a bay window on the second floor, is strangely unobtrusive among all the old houses of Galata. It is the sort of place you could easily pass by in a hurry without registering – unless you looked upwards and saw its gabled roof (a rarity in Istanbul), or noticed the atypically thick moulding over the door and windows.

Whatever its ponderous exterior, the building is small inside, remindingone of themany Ottoman-era houses in Kadıköy that have been converted into bars or cafes. The atmosphere of the Galata Evi is intimate and friendly, and its patrons, Mete and Nadire Göktuğ, are happy to sit and chat with you for a while. This husband-and-wife pair has been running the restaurant since 1999; both are trained architects, and are extremely knowledgeable about the history of Galata and Istanbul in general.

There are several rooms on the first floor – a larger room which can hold 12 people, and a smaller one, with a fireplace, which can hold six. A door leads out back to a small inner courtyard; leading off the courtyard is the Galata Evi’s kitchen (unchanged from its days as an army canteen), and a thick metal door that once opened onto the prison’s interrogation room.

Even if you end up dining here, you must see the second floor, which is really the most interesting part of the Galata Evi. On the street side there is a larger room with paintings by local artists. On the rear side is a room that was formerly the prisoners’ dormitory: here you can see an unplastered wall with century-old graffiti made by former prisoners. Some of these are in English, marking the days (or months) the men have been in prison.

There is also an old German piano in this room, and if you come after 8:00 PM you can have the pleasure of hearing live performances by Mrs. Göktuğ, who sings songs in a variety of different languages including Turkish, Russian, and Tatar (her family is of Tatar origin.)

In the author’s opinion, the best place to eat at the Galata Evi (weather permitting) is on the terrace above the inner courtyard. The menu at the Galata Evi is small, but the food is superb, with Russian, Tatar, and especially Georgian dishes that are difficult to find elsewhere in Istanbul.

The Russian-ness of the menu announces itself immediately from the soup course – consisting of borscht – as well as from the blini on the appetizer list. On this visit we did not try either (though I made a mental note to order them next time), opting instead for the mixed meze plate. The meze too have a distinctly Russo-Caucasian flavor, with beets and ground walnuts figuring prominently in the lists of ingredients. Our meze plate came with no fewer than six different meze, one of which I can only describe as a kind of Russian sushi roll, consisting of walnut wrapped in eggplant, flavored with pepper and saffron. All were quite tasty: I especially liked the acılı peynir ezmesi (a mildly spicy paste of cheese and tomato), and the squash-and-yogurt salad flavored with dill.

For the main course, we ordered hingal mantı, a special Georgian variety of dumpling that seems about ten times larger than Turkish mantı. The hingal mantı’s savory meat filling, and the tangy tomato sauce served on the side, were perfect. Other main courses on the menu which I mean to try on future visits include Georgian Çakapuli (lamb stew with tarragon and plum sauce), Ostri (veal goulash with pepper, tomato, mushrooms and coriander), and Baje (stewed chicken thighs with walnut and saffron.)

The Galata Evi serves alcohol, including beer, Turkish and Georgian wines, and Russian vodka. For a quiet dinner in an intimate and unique setting, right in the center of the city, the Galata Evi is an excellent choice. Try it once – you’re sure to come back.

Lokanta Maya’s dynamic menu reflects this ideal, changing between lunch and dinner, from one day to the next, from one season to the other. The zeytinyağlı (olive oil based) dishes and soups change daily and are written on the blackboard. Lunch menus are lighter and carry a slightly more home-cooking style, whereas dinner menus are heavier and revolve around mezes. The seasonal changes affect the menu as well—lighter dishes take the lead during summer, while slightly heavier dishes are on during winter.

The foremost deciding factor of what’s on the menu is the ingredients. Chef and owner Didem Şenol goes in search for the freshest, most seasonal products, and creates a daily menu based on them.

Istanbul does not offer the best of every ingredient so Şenol reaches far and wide—but always within the borders of Turkey. For example, bread travels from the city of Bolu from the Black Sea Region, while olive oil travels from the southwestern city of Marmaris.

Although the majority of dishes on the menu are inspired from Aegean and Mediterranean cuisines, the menu is varied enough to include specialties from other regions of Turkey, such as hamsi (anchovy) from the Black Sea Region.

Just like the menu, the venue is quite contemporary, too. The minimal décor features a stand by the entrance filled with Turkish spices. The rustic tables, especially the long communal one in the middle, give quite a homey feel. The little details make all the difference in this simple but tasteful interior, like the fresh flowers on each table and the cool hanging lamps. The walls are covered with shelves of books and walnuts. Yes walnuts. An entire wall is covered with what looks like thousands of walnuts held behind metal wires. We don’t know why but we know it works.

What really sets Maya Lokanta apart is definitely the food. We wanted to get a taste of more than one region so we started off with Mücver, salatalıklı yoğurt sos (fried vegetable patties with yogurt-mint-cucumber sauce). This classic dish had taken a truly original turn with the sauce that matched the crunchy-but-still-juicy patty. The beetroot salad (with greens, hazelnut, orange rind, and cheese) was light and refreshing. Although a very classic dish like mücver, the çıtır hamsi (fried anchovy) had a similiar twist to it as it was served with aioli with lemon and dill. To finish off, I went for the home-made lemonade instead of dessert. Would it suffice if I say I would buy a take-away bottle if it was possible?

It’s the practice of consuming unprocessed, uncooked, and mostly organic foods as the main part of your diet. The practice is quite new to Turkey and it’s not as widespread or popular as it is in other countries like the US.

Whether you managed to keep your bikini-body throughout the summer or caved into Piña Coladas bythe beach, a thorough detox will do wonders for your body and mind. And how will you do that? With a raw vegan diet by Saf Box.

What is Saf Box?

Saf Box is a nutrition program made of raw vegan food. Before you click away from the page, listen up. When I say raw vegan, I mean delicious, healthy, and tempting. Intrigued?

Prepared by Japanese chef Maiko Amemia and raw food chef Nihat Güden, the Saf Box menus are based on raw vegetables and fruits, and include wraps, soups, salads, nuts, snacks, and nutritional supplements. The meals are intended to boost the immune system and revitalize the body. The low-calorie, high-nutritional-value foods are cooked in special ovens under 40 °C, placed in neat boxes, which you can pick up from The LifeCo Detox Center. If you prefer, you can get them delivered to your doorstep for a small delivery fee. All you have to do to rid your body of toxins or get in shape is to eat what’s in the box. Easy as that.

What’s on offer?

The packages are prepared daily and include freshly-squeezed juices, breakfast, lunch, dinner, high-fiber snacks, and nutritional supplements.

What you won’t have...

Sugar, butter, salt, flour. These will be replaced with healthier alternatives, such as walnut oil, Himalayan crystal salt, and linseed.

And it will taste good?

We’ve tried the box for two days and we loved it. The carrot cake, raw crackers, edamame, and sautéed vegetable wrap are among our favorites.

What about the supplements?

You’ll get three nutritional supplements to accompany the three main meals. In the morning, you’ll have nettle and seaweed, which will help boost your metabolism rate and burn fat throughout the day. The lunch supplements will ease your digestion so that your body can use its energy to renew itself. The dinner supplements will also help with digestion while also boosting your immune system.

Why should you do it?

Because you won’t have to bother shopping for ingredients, preparing meals, or counting calories. And because you will feel healthy and energetic.

How to get the box?

Call (0212) 346 16 59 or 0532 552 37 37.

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Bodrum: The Pleasant Path to Nirvana; by Talya Arditi

It’s hardly necessary to give detailed directions to Hamdi Restaurant: all you have to do is get off at the Eminönü tram stop, and look up. The well-loved Istanbul eatery is almost as much of a fixture on the Haliç skyline as the Mosque of Süleyman.

Located on the same square as the Yeni Cami and the Mısır Çarşısı, Hamdi started off more than 40 years ago as a small köfte (meatball) stand, and now occupies an entire five-floor building. On the first floor you can find Turkish delight, baklava, and various kinds of tea for sale; the middle three levels have enclosed seating for large numbers of people, including a VIP room for private parties. The fifth and most scenic floor is the roof terrace. It is here that we ate when we visited Hamdi.

The first thing that strikes you when you get off the elevator on the roof is the amazing panoramic view, thanks to the floor-to-ceiling glass windows that give this airy space the feel of a greenhouse. The 180-degree-plus view starts with the Süleymaniye and Rüstempaşa mosques, and continues past the Golden Horn and Galata Tower, the Bosphorus (and Bosphorus Bridge), and the Asian coast as far as Üsküdar.

The restaurant’s eponymous founder Hamdi Arpacı (who still makes a point of visiting his restaurant every day) is from Southeast Anatolia, and the cuisine on offer reflects Mr. Arpacı’s heritage in numerous ways – from the baskets of lavaş (flatbread tortilla) rather than leavened bread, to the bottles of pomegranate syrup on display everywhere, to the garnishes of parsley, to the use of pistachio in both main dishes and desserts.

Unfortunately we did not have a chance to try Hamdi’s fıstıklı kebap (pistachio kebab) which some friends had recommended. Instead, we opted for the patlıcan kebap (kebab with eggplant, cooked on a thick metal skewer), one of 17 varieties of kebab currently on Hamdi’s menu. While we were waiting for our kebab, we whetted our appetites with some küçük spesiyal lahmacun, coaster-sized lahmacuns with pomegranate syrup and bits of walnut. The taste was somewhat subtler than we had expected – but then, with a main course on the way, it was probably wiser not to overwhelm our palates with the strong tang of lahmacun.

The main dish came apace, and was superb. Hamdi’s patlıcan kebap, like a lot of their kebabs, is made with a 50-50 mixture of lamb and veal, resulting in a meat blend that is both softer in texture and more delicate in odor and taste. Many Turkish kebabs are intended to be eaten without any kind of sauce, making it crucial that the meat be as juicy and flavorful as possible. Our patlıcan kebap succeeded in this sense, being moist without actually dripping fluid. The thick chunks of eggplant alternating in tandem with the meat – like the tomatoes served on the side – were perfectly singed on the exterior but eminently fresh within.

Pistachio puts in an appearance in most of Hamdi’s desserts, all of which are home-made. Particularly recommended is the gelin bohçası or “bride’s bundle,” so named because its customary shape resembles that of a cloth tied at all four ends, containing the possessions Turkish brides used to take with them to their future husbands’ houses. Made with pistachio-laced dough and filled with kaymak (clotted cream), the dessert – unlike some varieties of baklava – is sweet but not sickly sweet. (Hamdi’s renowned katmer, consisting of superimposed layers of pastry dough, pistachio, and kaymak, is also available after 6:00 PM.)

Alcohol is served at Hamdi; there is a takeout restaurant on the ground floor for those in a hurry, as well as a köfte restaurant two doors down for those in search of a simpler and quicker meal. If you are in Eminönü around lunchtime or dinnertime, it would be a crime not to eat at Hamdi at least once.

Tips:

- If you want to try Hamdi’s testi kebabı (a kebab cooked in an earthenware jug), you need to order it when making a reservation, at least four hours in advance.

- If you’re holding a big party, you can order Hamdi’s ceremonial kolbaşı, a kebab that can reach up to one meter in length.

- Döner kebap and İskender kebap are only available between 12 PM and 2:30 PM.

The restaurant’s ‘modern-Ottoman’ menu was designed by executive chef Hakan Arslan and creative culinary artist Bryon Ayanoğlu. A nice way to start your meal is with the Istanbul Appetizer Plate which is a selection of spreads that include hydari, a thick and garlicky yogurt dip, humus, kozlenmis patlican, which has a nice smoky flavor and cerkez tavuk, which was a bit lighter and with more texture than usual. You can also try the Plate Of Anatolian Olive Oil Vegetable Specialties which offers a selection of olive oil braised vegetables which are prepared just how they should be - very tender, but bursting with flavors.

If you want to try a warm appetizer and are in the mood for something different, try the Ottoman Palace Ravioli “Piruhi”. Although the menu refers to this dish as a variation on manti, it is far bigger than the traditional variety and flat, filled with crumbly cheese and topped with a brown butter and walnut sauce. Very filling, a portion is best shared by the table.

For a main dish I had the sea bass baked in parchment paper, which was very tender with the lemon slices and cherry tomatoes creating a flavorful broth, while my companion had one of the kebabs, served on a bed of thin, crisply fried potato pieces. As for desserts, there are several traditional Turkish and more European-inspired items on offer, but the star of the menu is the “Levzine” a type of almond helva served with a sweet sherbet, flavored with cinnamon. Whether you need a break from sightseeing or just want to enjoy an dazzling view of the city’s skyline, Olive restaurant is a great place to enjoy some Ottoman cuisine in Sultanahmet.

Classic as well as post-modern, gastro-sensational but still for the masses. That is what chef and owner Murat Bozok brought together in SALT’s Bistro.

Following his success at Mimolett, a fine-dining restaurant that serves Mediterranean and French cuisine, Bozok opened Bistro in the very-artsy, very-intellectual SALT a few months ago. But you don’t have to appreciate animated discussions or even art to enjoy the food at Bistro. You only need to be able to appreciate the art of food.

We were awestruck by Bistro when we went there for lunch last Friday: the restaurant, which was quite calm with only a few tables occupied, had a modern-loft feeling. The tall windows coupled with the high-ceilings make this relatively small space look and feel much more spacious than it actually is.

We were in for a quick and light lunch, and the inventive menu made it a bit difficult to pick just one dish. So we decided to share a starter, an appetizer, and a main. As we were waiting for our starter to arrive, we nibbled on the scrumptious homemade breads. I loved the one with cinnamon and walnuts, while my lunch companion couldn’t get enough of the ones with dried tomatoes.

Soon enough, the Cacık Soslu Falafel (Falafel with “Yogurt” Sauce) arrived. Although I was anticipating something more similar to the ball-shaped, crunchy, fried Israeli falafel, what we had was a much more elegant version of this street food. Rather than ball-shaped, the falafel came in patties and had a puree-like filling, and looked like a perfect hors d’oeuvre with a Turkish twist. Instead of hummus, the falafel dish was served with a thin yogurt and cucumber sauce and a tomato sauce that’s reminiscent of the sauces on mantı and kebab dishes. Although deep fried, the falafel tasted so light that we had to double-check with the waiter whether it was in fact deep fried.

The Narlı Buğday Salatası (Wheat Salad with Pomegranate) was a winner right from the start with its extravagant presentation. But it was the popcorn that made it for me. Seriously, what a fantastic addition to a salad! We couldn’t help but admire the creativity of chef Murat Bozok as this light salad spoke to each part of our taste buds: it first tasted slightly sweet, then a subtle lemony tanginess rushed in, and the crunch of the popcorn brought it all to a glorious finale.

Following the salad, which was no doubt the highlight of the meal, we had Şarap Soslu Karamelize Tavuk (Caramelized Chicken with Wine Sauce) as our main. The vegetables that came with the chicken were too salty, and the chicken was only slightly overcooked.

Although we made do with three dishes, there is a lot more on Bozok’s menu that is waiting to be savored. On my next visit to Bistro, I plan on trying a regional take on a classic Italian dish, the İzmir Tulum Peynirli Lazanya (Lasagne with “İzmir Tulum” cheese). Whether you’re at SALT to see their latest exhibition or just strolling around Beyoğlu, stop by Bistro for high-quality food that is still affordable.

On board with the nutrition-obsessed citizens of the world, we went to the only address that would no doubt deliver. At Zencefil, it’s not about boiled broccoli or the leafy salad, it’s about bringing together the freshest, seasonal, naturally-grown, locally-produced ingredients—always the best of the best—and creating sensational dishes. Pretty sure there is a serious cult following of the lorlu patlıcan (eggplant with goat’s cheese). But we’ll get to that in a second.

First thing you need to know about Zencefil is that it’s not just a restaurant serving tasty and healthy food but a system of consciousness. What began with five tables and a menu consisting of soups, salads, and breads is now a legend of vegetarian restaurants in Istanbul. Owner Ferda, who is also the brain behind most of the dishes, didn’t embark on this vegetarian journey to keep up with the latest trends; she wanted to create a place that would bring together the sincerity of your grandmother’s cooking and the ideals held up by today’s environmentally, politically, and health conscious individuals.

Serious vegetarians can rest assured that no meat products go in the dishes. For example, the stock for the pasta dishes is made by boiling leftover vegetable peels. Except for the two chicken dishes and one fish dish, everything on the menu is strictly vegetarian. A few vegan options, such as the salads and beans, are also available.

Designed like an oasis, Zencefil’s forget-all-your-worries garden covered with ivy leaves creates a truly relaxing atmosphere and takes you away from the chaos of Istanbul. The interior décor is on a similar vein; the glasshouse-effect in the main dining area coupled with the brick walls makes for an enticing and relaxing atmosphere.

As a serious meat fan, I did have some reservations before going to Zencefil, but now I may in fact be converted to a vegivore. When you go to Zencefil, you too will embark on a love affair with vegetables.

During our deliciously long lunch, we had an impromptu tasting menu that began with the very tasty and invigorating homemade lemonade and ginger ale. Unlike the sugar-bomb lemonades you find at most places, the lemonade was made the old-fashioned way with real lemons and tasted, refreshingly so, not too sweet or too sour. The ginger ale, on the other hand, tasted good without an overpowering ginger flavor. So even if you shy away from ginger, we suggest you give this ginger ale a try.

Next we had a cold summer soup called ayran aşı. Hailing from the eastern city of Van, this regional dish is ideal for those who love corn, chickpea, and yogurt topped up with mint and beetroot sorbet. Ayran aşı was followed by an army of starters that were all, to be frank, very good. Although beans are a typical home cooked meal that we’ve grown up with, the Zencefil version of beans were unique and tasted especially good thanks to the addition of tarragon. The yaz türlüsü (mixed vegetable dish) was just like a Turkish grandmother would make—and that’s probably the highest compliment you can give to a typical home cooked dish. The lentil patties, samphire, the zucchini were all the best of their kind.

The highlight of the meal, which was in serious competition with the green lasagna, was lorlu patlıcan (eggplant with goat’s cheese). The tart-shaped lorlu patlıcan has its roots at a spa of the early 90s. A food aficionado passed on the recipe to the then-partner of the restaurant, which was molded and perfected by the Zencefil crew. Even after almost two decades on the menu, it’s still a crowd-pleaser and is unlikely to go out of fashion.

The green lasagna has a similarly intriguing backstory. A love-struck African man was in search of his wife who kind of ran away with a spiritual cult. He had to spend some time in Istanbul, and, long story short, his path crossed with that of Zencefil’s owner Ferda. With a Buddha-like patience and determination, this love-struck man dedicated himself to creating the best vegetable lasagna, tirelessly adding one layer after the other, day after day.Although his versionis no longer on the menu, we can now savor thegreen lasagna (otherwise referred to as the ultimate vegetarian dish) created by Hande, a very talentedZencefil team member Hande. Crusted with corn bread, it’s made with seasonal vegetables, ranging from broccoli and peas to spinach and mushroom, as well as uncured goat’s cheese and spices. Minus the béchamel sauce plus the squash-carrot sauce, this lasagna beats any original.

For dessert, we had sage-and-gum and mocha-with-coffee-bits ice-cream. Both were top-notch. The sage-and-gum ice-cream is likely to be a pleasant surprise for those who are not a big fan of sage or gum. Whether you’re counting your calorie intake or not, the fruit sorbets are very refreshing and flavorful options. They are not your typical sorbets though—the melon has a bit of ginger, the watermelon and strawberry have a bit of black pepper, and the cup comes topped with orange rind. Both of these desserts are served with ginger cookies and candied ginger. Be warned as the candied ginger rank high on the spicy matrix.

If you’re ready to fall head over heels in love with vegetables, we suggest you head to Zencefil.

Following their success with Changa, Tarık Beyazıt and Savaş Ertunç got together with the Kiwi chef Peter Gordon for another inventive culinary experience. Located within the Sakıp Sabancı Museum complex, overlooking the waters of the Bosphorus, müzedechanga is a contemporary Turkish – Mediterranean restaurant offering a range of creative dishes.

Seated on the terrace, we enjoyed the chirping birds and the old and grand trees, as we marveled at the stunning view of the Bosphorus. When the waiter brought over the array of mezes, I reeled to and fro, not knowing which one to begin with. Unlike me, my lunch companion leapt right in. Almost like a lioness in attack, I grabbed my fork and quickly followed suit, aiming for the closest dish. The lucky winner: balkabaklı muhammara (the spicy walnut spread with pumpkin).

This was a refreshingly modern take on a classic dish. The sweetness of the pumpkin, dancing slowly with the crunchy walnuts turned out to be an original, addictively smooth paste. Try dipping the fresh and crunchy bread in the paste…definite drool factor!

To balance out the sweet aftertaste of the muhammara, I swiftly moved on the maşpiyazı ve ev yapımı isli somon (in-house smoked salmon chunks with mung bean salad). The salmon, which felt especially reviving with the moist mung bean salad, had the texture of grilled salmon but the taste of smoked salmon—certainly a unique combination.

Now it was time to try the mantarlı hınkal (Gürcü mantısı), Antakya tuzlu yoğurt sos ve nane salsa (mushroom stuffed dumplings with goat’s milk yogurt sauce and fresh mint salad). I now fondly recall this dish as the soft mushroom bomb with a gooey center. The sly parmesan was masked by the fresh basil leaves and only became obvious as the dumpling crumbled away in my mouth. Although quite similar to Turkish mantı in terms of texture, this Georgian-style mantı has a different folding style and presentation, and is filled with mushrooms instead of meat. This is a great choice for vegetarians—although you should steer clear of this dish if you’re watching your carb intake, because the creamy sauce begs to be sopped up with bread.

After the mantı, it was time to try the glorious sucuk—another creative take on a traditional Turkish specialty! Although the king of all Sunday breakfasts, it’s usually too greasy for my liking, and leaves you feeling like you’ve just eaten Big Mac for breakfast. But this sucuk has a completely different story. Fıstıklı Changa sucuk ve humus (Changa sucuk – spicy sausage with pistachios – and hummus) is much more than a modern take on a traditional dish. It’s a revolution in and of itself!

First, I had a spoonful of hummus; as it melted away in my mouth, a subtle sucuk taste creeped in. This was a seriously pleasant surprise. The sucuk itself was perfection: cooked just the right amount, juicy inside and crispy on the outside. The pickles on the side were the ideal companions, light and refreshing after the spicy, flavorful sucuk.

Next in line was the Katmer, Keçi Peyniri Kreması ve Antakya Kırık Zeytini (Flaky Pastry, Creamy Goat’s Cheese and Marinated Green Olives). Similar to gözleme in texture, the katmer had a simple yet gratifying flavor like a plain pancake that you don’t mind gulping down without maple syrup. The strongly flavored olives and the cheese made the ideal combination to the pastry.

The couscous that came with the succulent Izgara Tavuk ve Badem, Turşulanmış Limon, Kuru Sultani Üzümlü Kuskus ve Tabbouleh (Grilled Chicken on Couscous with Almonds, Raisins, Preserved Lemon, and Tabbouleh) was one of the best that I’ve ever had. The couscous was moist; the sweetness of the raisins and the tanginess of the lemon made a dazzling team.

To end this delectable lunch, we had Turkish coffee, which came with freshly made Turkish delights. For dessert, we had ordered Wafer Halva and Rose Parfait Sandwich with Strawberry & Raspberry Sauce. The crunchiness of the halva, the cool sweetness of the parfait, and the delicate combination of the strawberry and raspberry sauce turned out to be a grand finale.

Check out the atmosphere:

Located in the Edirnekapı district in the heart of the old city, Asitane is a unique restaurant within the Istanbul culinary scene, specializing in “Ottoman Court” cuisine. Although Asitane has been around for close to 20 years, at the moment, the restaurant happens to have its finger on the pulse of one of the latest trends to hit the culinary world – food archeology, the practice of rediscovering historical recipes that have fallen out of use over the years.

After meticulous study and much trial and error, the chefs at Asitane have resurrected long-forgotten recipes from the kitchens of the Sultan’s palaces to create delicious and unusual dishes. The recipes for these royal dishes were closely guarded secrets, known only to members of the palace cooking guilds and passed on not through books but by word of mouth. Consequently, this knowledge was eventually lost. After studying records of meals and celebrations held at Topkapı and Dolmabahçe Palaces, the chefs at Asitane have succeeded in recreating severalhundred dishes.

The menu is ever-changing, and is prepared using a range of seasonal ingredients. You will immediately notice that the flavors on offer are much more diverse than what is available in contemporary Turkish restaurants, with a combination of sweet and savory that is not typically found in modern Turkish cuisine. Indeed, the recipes incorporate flavors from the Middle East, Balkans, Central Asia, and Anatolia – all territories that were once ruled over by the Ottomans. Another one of Asitane’s unusual characteristics is its location in Edirnekapı, which is off the beaten path and far from the central Beyoğlu district or the waters of the Bosphorus, where you can find most of the city’s upscale restaurants. Nevertheless, this part of town still manages to draw a significant number of tourists with its wealth of historical buildings. Asitane is located next to one of the most noteworthy of these buildings from the Byzantine era, the St. Savior in Chora Church, which is famed for its incredible mosaics and frescos. Additionally, in the rear, Asitane’s large garden is open during the summer months and has a lovely view of the neighboring church.

Inside, the décor is tasteful and subtle, if not a bit unremarkable, with starched white table cloths and Ottoman calligraphy adorning the walls. The real “wow factor” lies with the food. Each dish on the menu has a listing of the date of origin, and all of the recipes are prepared using the cooking methods of that period. Many of the dishes on the menu originate from the special feast of 1539, celebrating the circumcision of Suleiman the Magnificent’s son, including the famous almond soup that was served at this celebration. The waiters at Asitane are all very knowledgeable and ready to make suggestions and guide you towards the dishes you may enjoy the most.

On my visit, our meal started off with a selection of cold appetizers called Asitane Treats, which included the “Lor” Cheese Blend (1898), a Turkish cheese similar to ricotta that was mixed with green peppers, tomatoes, and fresh herbs and seasoned with rosemary and paprika, the Pounded Cucumber Salad (1844) that had the interesting addition of pistachios, as well as the more classic Fava, a well-known dish of creamed broad beans with dill and olive oil, served on a piece of crisp bread. The highlight was certainly the Ottoman Hums (1469, 1471), which is Asitane’s version of hummus, delicately flavored with currants, pine nuts, and cinnamon, and topped with a crispy piece of pastırma.

For my main, I had the “Mahmudiyye” with Dane-i Sarı (1539), a dish of stewed chicken in a creamy sauce that included apricots, almonds, and Razaki raisins. This dish was flavored with cinnamon and cloves, and served with a side of saffron pilaf rice. While this may sound like it could be overwhelmingly sweet, but the flavors were well-balanced by the saffron rice while the chicken was very tender andtasty.

Meanwhile, my companion had the Stuffed Quince (1539), which is one of Asitane’s signature dishes, where quince is baked after it has been stuffed with a blend of lamb, beef, rice, pine nuts, and currants, topped with grape molasses. Served with melon in the summer, this is a play on a traditional dolma dish, with the quince so perfectly cooked that each bite melts in your mouth, the meat counterbalancingthe sweetness of the quince.

With our meals, the waiters brought us complimentary glasses of sherbet, the sweet and syrupy drink that is the main ingredient in sorbets. The house specialties are pomegranate blossom and cinnamon, which has a nice subtle bite due to the cloves and chili that are used. Although these are delicious, it should be noted that these can become a bit overwhelmingly sweet when accompanying a meal.

To finish off, we had the obligatory cup of Turkish coffee and Levzine (1539). Although this is described as an Almond Halva, I would say that the texture and flavor was much closer to a sugary marzipan, which made for the perfect ending to a delicious and unusual meal. With its focus on the Ottoman past, Asitane provides a very different and very welcome take on Turkey’s culinary history. An experience not to be missed.

Passionate about cooking, Murat Bozok dumped his initial education in Business Administration for a tasty and soulful journey around the world, getting a formal education in cooking in the States and working with the likes of Gordon Ramsey in Europe. After returning to his motherland, Bozok opened Mimolett in 2009, adding some spice to the gastronomical mix of Istanbul’s restaurant scene.

Cuisine: Mediterranean and French

Concept: Fine-dining

What to Wear: Dressed-up or casual chic

Executive Chef & Owner

Mimolett’s Executive Chef and owner Murat Bozok has worked at eateries owned by world-class chefs Gordon Ramsay (Petrus) in London and Joel Robuchon (L’Atelier de Robuchon) in Paris. He moved back to Istanbul to open his own restaurant.

Décor & Ambiance

Located in a 100 year-old historical building, Mimolett is elegantly decorated with soft lighting, crystal chandeliers, crisp linen tablecloths, velvet curtains, and decorative mirrors befitting a fine-dining establishment. An outdoor terrace and a marble bar are located on the first floor. The lower two levels have been allocated for dining, with a seating capacity of 70 people, along with two private rooms (usually reserved for business meetings), and a terrace.

Menu

An A La Carte menu and a tasting menu are available. Fresh and seasonal ingredients are used and, as such, the menus are updated every 6 weeks.

Recommended Dishes

Appetizers

Foie Gras Sauté, Quince Jam and Brioche

Asparagus Salad, Pomegranate Molasses and Parmesan

Main Courses

Duck Confite, Foie Gras Croissant and White Bean Puréewith Truffle

Dessert

Chocolate Souffle, Créme Anglaise Sauce

Wine List

There are 350 varieties of local and international wines available in carafes at all price levels. A good selection of wines by the glass is also offered. Don’t feel overwhelmed by the options; the restaurant’s sommelier is there to help you out in your selection.

Service

The wait staff is very efficient and knowledgeable.

Pluses

The high ceiling in the main dining area adds an extra touch to the atmosphere and the lighting is very good. China and silverware are top-quality (Villeroy & Boch china and Christofle flatware). Molton Brown products are available in bathrooms. Music is unobtrusive. Homemade breads are excellent.

Minuses

Portions are small—and for some this can be a minus, although the purpose is to taste different flavors.

Miscellaneous Info

Mimolett has been named after the French cheese mimolette, a round and orange-colored cheese produced for the first time in the 17^th century at the request of Louis XIV.

So not swappable for anything.

Except for utterly delicious Italian food.

Especially if you only need to drive down to Arnavutköy to get it.

Antica Locanda is an undeniably sophisticated Italian restaurant that offers rustic Italian cuisine that will unquestionably gratify you.

It comes as no surprise that it is the Italian chef Gian Carlo Talerico who delivers the divine food at Antica Locanda. Having grown up in a crowded Italian family, Gian Carlo began learning the art of cooking from his mother and his grandmother when he was a little boy.

Upon receiving his formal culinary education in Milan, Gian Carlo took off to experience the rest of the world and worked at prestigious restaurants. After returning to his motherland, he opened a culinary school in Tuscany where worked as the executive chef and manager for several years.

Along the way, he met Beldan Erkkul—a Turkish lady who is now his wife and co-owner of Antica Locanda—and ended up opening his own Italian restaurant in a recently-renovated building that was part of the Greek Orthodox Church in Arnavutköy.

Beautifully renovated by architect Turhan Kaşo, this historical building still carries a divine feeling, especially in its little terrace that’s separated from the church by a large, verdant garden that makes for a fantastic view. Inside, the modern décor blends flawlessly with traditional details, such as the black and white chequered floors and white tablecloths. Perfect harmony, like all the dishes Gian Carlo prepares.

In fact, perfection and harmony are enough to define our lunch at Antica Locanda—an unfair competition for the rest of the Italian eateries in Istanbul.

The cheese and fruit plate marked the beginning of our delicious lunch. For me, the parmesan was the pièce de résistance. I’m still daydreaming about it, I’ll tell you that much.

Before moving on to our individual dishes, we shared crunchy salmon croquettes, which paired perfectly with the accompanying sweet sauce. The saltimbocca (a mini-pizza with mozzarella, goat cheese, and caramelized onions) took center stage for most of us. Some were raving about the crust and the flavor even days after.

For mains, I ordered the Petto di pollo caramellizzato al forno con scalogno dorato e salsa di albicocche, or easily referred to as the voluptuously tender, sweet, succulent chicken dish. Paired with a bottle of mellow red wine. Yum.

To end this sublime lunch, we ordered coffee with dessert. I would strongly argue that what we had should have a category of its own in the universe of chocolate.

A huge piece of rich, dark chocolate, served with meringues and almond-flavored biscuits, presented on a cutting board along with a knife to cut the chocolate in chunks. No wonder coffee was drunk in silence.

Service, presentation, setting , food. All in harmony, all top-notch, all exceeding our expectations.

Antica Locanda, Satış Meydanı No. 12, Arnavutköy; P: (0212) 287 97 45

The fish here is exceptionally fresh, and the menu features seasonal whole fish that is either grilled over charcoal or lightly fried. Apart from the catch of the day, there are many other recommended dishes on the menu, including the calamari, which is fried in a delicately crispy batter, and the balık köfte(fish croquette), which has a nice smoky flavor that pairs very well with the basil aioli on the side. The güveç dishes, which are cooked in earthenware pots with a rich tomato sauce, are made using heartier fish (such as sole) that can hold up against the intense flavors of the sauce.

The fish soup also comes highly recommended anda number of unexpected dishes are well worth a try. One such delicious surprise is the fish dürüm(similar to tortilla) with caramelized onions and arugula that has unexpectedly delicate flavors. Fürreyya also serves its version of mantı, a Turkish pasta dish similar to ravioli, swapping fish for the traditional ground meat stuffing. Yet despite these gourmet flavors, the prices are decidedly pedestrian, which allows Fürreyya to remain a favorite with neighborhood locals and epicureans alike.

Mr. Yazıcı, who is a native of Istanbul, spent many years in Austria where drinking wine constitutes a large part of the daily culture. After returning to Turkey with his wife Ursula, who is originally from Switzerland, they established the successful Swiss Restaurant in Yeniköy. Located in a lovely white house by the waterfront, the restaurant has been serving authentic Swiss food for years. After the success of this venture, Mr. Yazıcı decided to branch out and try something new. He had been very impressed by the wine culture in Austria and, on his return to Turkey, had noted that Istanbul has a shortage of places that are dedicated to wine appreciation. With this in mind, Mr. Yazıcı decided to open a venue with a very unique concept: inspired by a spot he visited on a trip to Lugano, Italy, he opened Riserva—a wine and music appreciation venue unlike any wine bar in town.

Located in the seaside district of Tarabya, Riserva is not a traditional wine bar, as Mr. Yazıcı stresses, but indeed, it is a contribution to Istanbul’s wine culture. Riserva’s layout is more like a home than a restaurant—in fact, Riserva is neither a home nor a restaurant but something in between; it is an unclassifiable and unique venue. Spread out over flour floors, which are open depending on the number of guests, Riserva is illuminated with soft, red lights, with CDs and records scattered throughout the rooms.

Mr. Yazıcı is determined to offer only the finest nd freshest produce; therefore, full meals are available only with advanced notice. In fact, reservations are essential to enjoy this unique experience. A wide selection of cheese and cured meats (such as prosciutto) are always available, while the rest of the menu varies, depending on reservations.

Anyone, who is familiar with wine importing in Turkey, knows that this is a highly consolidated industry in which only a handful of businesses dominate. While most restaurants work exclusively with just one wine importer, Mr. Yazıcı works with several in order to offer the best selection of wines available in Turkey.

Although Mr. Yazıcı underlines the fact that Riserva is a place to enjoy wine first and foremost, its food should not be underrated. We nibbled on a selection of delicious appetizers as we enjoyed our first glass of wine, a Chardonnay from Urla Şarapçılık located on Turkey’s Agean Coast. This light and fruity wine was perfectly paired with a piece of fresh peasant bread, flavorful tiger tomatoes, meaty green olives, and a huge round of crumbly Grana Padano. As we enjoyed our wine, we spoke to Mr. Yazıcı, who is often present and can speak passionately about every aspect of Riserva, from the wine and food, to the music that surrounds us.

Eventually, we moved on to our main meal which started with enormous jumbo prawns fresh from Mersin. Served with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and freshly ground black pepper, the prawns were deliciously tender and flavorful. Next, we had perfectly-grilled fresh sea bass with a side of arugula and buttery-herbed baby potatoes. With dinner, we enjoyed a velvety Pradaluppo from the Fontanafredda winery in Piedmont, Italy. Finally, we finished with a classic Austrian dessert called Sachertorte—a rich chocolate cake that is a famous culinary specialty of Vienna —which was served with an Austrian ice wine from Weingut Türk.

Rather than investing in flashy décor, Mr. Yazıcı has invested heavily in his wine list as well as top-of-the-line kitchen and wine-storing equipment. He has also installed a crystal-clear sound system on which to enjoy his refined collection of jazz and classical music that includes many rare recordings. If you’re lucky, you might even be privy to a live musical performance by well-known musicians, such as Aydın Esen, who often performs impromptu jam sessions.

After spending such an exceptional evening at Riserva, I have had the difficulty to box it into any one category. In fact, Mr. Yazıcı wants his visitors to keep on open mind and leave their preconceptions at the door, as it is only with an open mind that you can truly enjoy this very special venue.

Not surprisingly, the focus with the main dishes is on meats, with a wide range of grilled dishes, including hünkar beğendi (pureed eggplants with lamb) and kuzu tandır (tandoori-style lamb). Yet, vegetarians will never be at a loss for something to eat here, with a wide variety of hot and cold olive oil dishes (zeytinyağlılar),soups, and salads on offer. The restaurant is also famous for its fruit desserts, specifically its baked quince, served with a side of kaymak (clotted cream), and fruit compotes like those that line the restaurant shelves.

Because alcohol is not served, this restaurant is also a favorite with families. A significant drop in both the quality of the food and the service has been noted by a number of recent visitors who complain that the food is now bland and overrated, not to mention over-priced.

The interior of the restaurant is casual, warm, and cozy. The décor is modern but with retro touches, and even the bathrooms have been playfully decorated with matchbooks from restaurants in London, New York, and beyond.

Enstitü has quickly established itself as a favorite with both locals and tourists, as it offers a lighter take on traditional Turkish cuisine, often with a twist. For example, the traditional Turkish appetizer mücver, a vegetable fritter or pancake usually prepared with zucchini, is made instead with pumpkin. Drawing inspiration from Istanbul’s multi-ethnic past, we see a range of subtly layered flavors in dishes, such as the lamb stew with dried fruits,almonds, and sumac. Fans of the traditional Turkish dishes will also be satisfied by dishes, such as köfte (meatballs) with pita bread, yogurt, and tomato sauce.

And for those who are suffering from Turkish food-fatigue, the menu also features a number of international dishes, such as vegetables fried in a crisp tempura batter, Norwegian salmon with almond and walnut, and thyme roasted prawns served with pear carpaccio and a citrus emulsion. For dessert, be sure not to miss their homemade ice creams, which come in a range of flavors, including Turkish coffee, lavender, tahini, and green tea.

The cafe section on the first floor also features a gourmet counter where you can purchase a wide selection of jams, compote, vegetable sauces, and pickles freshly made with organic fruits and vegetables. Add excellent service and reasonable prices to the delicious food, and Enstitü is a real winner in the Istanbul culinary scene.

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The menu at Kiva changes every day, reflecting the venue’s aspirations to be regarded as a restaurant offering freshly-prepared, constantly-updated varieties of favorite dishes. For lunch, my friend and I started off with some meze—zatar (a parsley salad), Çerkez tavuğu (Circassian chicken), and bulgur köftesi (a kind of doughnut-shaped ball made of crushed wheat in a tomato sauce). The chicken was particularly good, the parsley fresh as a daisy, and I was cautiously optimistic for the main dishes, which turned out to be truly excellent.

Our first main was a plate of mixed dolmas (stuffed vine leaves) including baklalı (with fava beans), erikli (with prunes), and etli (with meat). The etli dolma was the best, comprised of tiny packets of vine leaves stuffed with meat and rice. The erikli dolma was long and thin, shaped like elegant cigarettes, while the baklalı came in larger packets encasing chopped pieces of fava beans.

We then had the slow-cooked lamb in pilav (rice), which was brought to the table in a conical ceramic dish by a waiter beaming with barely-contained pride. The dish was very simple but very delicious, tender, and aromatic. On the side, a black-eyed-bean salad with parsley and tomato, and a dish of yogurt and dill were the perfect accompaniments. After all the delicious food, which I wouldn’t hesitate to order again, the baklava to finish off was predictably good.

The waiter was very forthcoming in recommending dishes, with good results—the dolma platter was a master stroke. Inside the restaurant (I was basking in the winter sun outside), there is a buffet for those who want to bypass both the menu and the waiters’ suggestions, but as far as I could see they were the same dishes. There is a sumptuous sounding breakfast available every day from 8am until 5pm, and the restaurant is busier in the evenings with a tourist influx. I would urge Istanbul locals to head there and challenge the tourists for the outdoor tables, with their view of Galata Tower and excellent people-watching positioning. Overall, a wonderful Anatolian experience, combining delicious food and a unique location.

I recently had a chance to try their tapas-style dishes that are packed with intense flavors. Max, the hyper-talented cook of Istanbul’s culinary stage, plays with unexpected ingredients and creates dishes that catch you off guard and delight you.

The concept here is to sample small portions of fine food without compromising your budget. The dishes are 1/3 of a regular portion—another reason to try all of Max’s creations at one go!

The menu changes every month and, once you’ve tried Max’s inventive food, you will be compelled to come back and try his new creations. You will find, as I did, that discovering the harmony of a gamut of ingredients is an experience in itself. I was personally intrigued by the creative and experimental nature of the chef and tried most of the mains from his December 2010 menu. I have to admit, the surprisingly delicious combination of the salmon & pear pizza still lingers in my mind.

It was not just the food that was memorable from LilBitz. Designed by the adorable Sema, the interior was just as gripping. The asymmetric shelves of the bar, the map-like ceiling décor, the blend of emerald-green with wooden-pieces create a dynamic and cozy atmosphere.

After midnight, LilBitz turns into a lively club featuring different DJs on different nights. The music is not confined to one genre; you will dance to pop, hip hop, house, the 80s, and some Turkish music (usually played towards the end of the night). To get you going, I strongly recommend Max’s apple-ginger vodka cocktail. Trust me, you’ve never tasted anything like it before and you will, I promise, keep coming back for it.

The décor shows clear signs of a European hand at work, and indeed one half of the management and Joost Roojmans (one of the founders) are from Europe. Roojmans, a Dutchman far from home turf teamed up with wife Aliye Turagay to create Bird as an innovative new breed of restaurants/bars having successfully run 8 Istanbul in Beyoğlu for some years prior to Bird.

Walking in, past lofty potted palms, one is greeted by a surprisingly small interior, albeit with high ceilings and a sweeping marble-topped bar with shelves of exciting liquors illuminated on the wall at the back. Hipsters sit nonchalantly on bar stools sipping martinis while gifted barmen dip and dive with shot glasses and pieces of fruit, occasionally incorporating a sly dance move into their routine as the revved-up lounge music plays. The whole bar is, quite frankly, a tour de force.

The 10 or so dining tables make for a cozy dining experience and the food is actually very good. Among the myriad of Turkish and international dishes on offer, I can recommend, without hesitation, the lamb shank (kuzu incik) of unparalleled tenderness, the avocado salad with goat cheese (Avocado, Keçi Peyniri, Domates), and the Thai beef (Thai Usulü Bonfile). While many of the dishes have a fusion element, for example the Asian-style grilled shrimp (Asya Usulü Izgara Karides) and the tuna tartar, others are very Turkish (mantı, çiğ börek, and köfte among others). The prices are not small but they are actually O.K. considering the smart vibe of the place (expect to pay around 30TL for a main dish at dinner). Those who can, by all means order the King crab at 100TL.

On to drinks: the impressive bar is not all razzle-dazzle. You have the full gamut of cocktails featured on the menu, but feel free to ask for an adaptation—for example, I ordered a caipirinha and then asked for some mint as an afterthought. The barman very politely declined to pass comment on my failure to order a mojito in the first place. In addition to cocktails, any kind of aperitif, digestive, or whisky is yours for the taking. A comprehensive wine list is also available, with mainly foreign wines apart from a handful of Turkish ones.

Next time I go to Bird I plan to order the house specialty cocktail—the ‘Bird Margharita’ prepared with tequila, fresh pomegranate juice, orange liqueur, and lemon juice. I also plan to be one of those enviably cool people actually on the premises on a Friday or Saturday night. Here’s to trying.