Bavarian Cream at Emporio Armani Ristorante: Indulge in something sweet at IstinyePark’s classy Italian restaurant Emporio Armani Ristorante. We suggest the delicious Baverese (Bavarian White Chocolate). IstinyePark Shopping Mall, Istinye Bayırı Caddesi No. 73, İstinye; P: (0212) 345 61 40

Künefe at Ali Baba: You can make a day out of Sunday, May 13th, and take your mother to Büyükada. Have dinner at Ali Baba, one of the best fish restaurants on the island, and top it off with one of the classic Turkish desserts, künefe (cheese-filled dessert with a shredded wheat base).

Katmer at Zerafet: Enjoy this Antep dessert at one of Istanbul’s best kebab restaurants ZerafEt. It’s made of very thin baklava dough,Turkish clotted cream, covered with a generous bed of crumbled pistachios, and served with vanilla ice-cream. Adnan Saygun Caddesi Leylah Apartmanı No.1 14/B, Ulus; P: (0212) 352 60 75

Kup Griye at Baylan: Baylan is one of the oldest and most established patisseries in Istanbul, and its name is almost synonymous with their special dessert Kup Griye. Made with vanilla and caramel ice-cream, whipped cream, caramel sauce, and honey & almond crocan, this dessert has even inspired a fan page of its own! Cevdet Paşa Caddesi No.52-54, Bebek; P: (0212) 358 07 60

Dondurmalı Irmik Helvası at Hünkar: İrmik helvası(semolina helvah) is a classic Turkish dessert, which is made slightly differently at Hünkar with the addition of milk and a secret ingredient that turns this dessert into creamy perfection. Watch out for the vanilla ice-cream that juts out with your first spoonfull. Mim Kemal Öke Caddesi No.21, Nişantaşı; P: (0212) 225 46 65

Mousse au chocolat at Le Fumoir: A glass of champagne and a very very good mousse au chocolat is a simply divine experience at Galata’s hottest spot Le Fumoir. Serdar-ı Ekrem Sokak No.24, Galata; P: (0212) 244 24 23

Tiramisu at Antica Locanda: You can’t beat a well done classic, like the Tiramisu at Arnavutköy’s cozy Italian restaurant Antica Locanda. Satış Meydanı No.12, Arnavutköy; P: (0212) 287 97 45

It looks like the weather will be nice and sunny this weekend. And you know what happens on such weekends – crowds flood the neighborhoods along the Bosphorus strait, especially Bebek, stealing the best seat in the most popular cafes, enjoying a late brunch, lunch, or dinner and spending as much time as possible enjoying the fantastic Bosphorus view.

If you want to enjoy the weather at a café or restaurant with a garden or outdoor seating, but don’t want to torture yourself through the Bosphorus traffic, take a look at our suggestions below.

Go Austrian at Julius Meinl:Julius Meinl, otherwise known as Karabatak Karaköy, is one of the hottest cafes in Karaköy right now. But this coffee shop is not just about amazing coffee and irresistible desserts. Here, you’ll also find some Austrian specialties, like Frankfurter and Schnitzel (chicken or beef). Enjoy your lunch or dinner right by the entrance and let the sunlight beam on you. And make sure you indulge in a slice of Sacher Torte, the special Austrian chocolate cake. Just take the metro to Taksim Square, then take the funicular down to Kabataş, and take the tram to Karaköy to avoid traffic. Kemankeş Karamustafa Paşa Mahallesi Kara Ali Kaptan Sokak No.7, P: (0212) 243 69 93

Go Ethnic at Çiya:This Asian Side classic is known the world over for its wide range of delicacies from Syria, Georgia, southern Iran, and all parts of Turkey. Expect to find interesting versions of favorite staple dishes at Çiya, for example stuffed artichoke rather than the usual stuffed pepper, grilled loquats filled with rice and minced meat mixtures or caramelized onions atop the classic dolma (stuffed vine leaves).If you’re on the European Side, hop on a ferry from Beşiktaş to Kadıköy – you’ll get to enjoy the Bosphorus view plus you’ll avoid traffic. Güneşli Bahçesi Sokak No. 43, Kadıköy; P: (0216) 330 31 90

Go Artsy at Istanbul Modern Café: You can have your cake and eat it too, you know. Just head to Istanbul Modern Café, where you can enjoy inventive dishes of meze, seafood, and meat right on the Bosphorus, having toured La La La Human Steps, Istanbul Modern’s latest exhibition that is ending on May 6. Istanbul Modern is located in Tophane, but you can avoid the traffic jam by taking the metro to Taksim Square, where you can hop on the funicular to Kabataş, and then get on the tram to Tophane. Meclisi Mebusan Caddesi Antrepo No. 4 Salıpazarı, Karaköy; P: (0212) 292 26 12

Go Aegean at Maria’nın Bahçesi: You will be surprised to find a lush garden of flowers and intertwined green vines on the side of the road in the Küçükyalı neighborhood on the Asian side, which is exactly what makes Maria’nın Bahçesi (Maria’s Garden) a perfect location for lunch or dinner on a warm day. The menu focuses on Aegean cuisine and includes a selection of seafood dishes including everything from monk fish, to sea bass, to jumbo shrimp. Try the Balıkçının Makarnası (Fisherman’s Pasta), which claims to combine linguini with everything edible from the sea, and in fact really does. Make your reservation on a Friday or Saturday night to listen to the live music available from 8:30pm in the form of a guitarist singing softly away in Italian, Spanish, and Turkish. Küçükyalı Sahilyolu No. 85, Küçükyalı; P: (0216) 519 98 19

Go Italian at Antica Locanda: Antica Locanda is located in Arnavutköy, and there is not really a shortcut or a way of transportation that will take you there without traffic – unless you can walk there. But, even if you get stuck in traffic, the peaceful little garden of Antica Locanda and the mouthwatering dishes will erase your tortured moments in the traffic jam immediately. Especially if you have the calamari stew, or the caramelized chicken breast, the Venetian style fettuccini, or the tiramisu.

Besides Karaköy classics, like Karaköy Lokantası and Lokanta Maya, which serve as great lunch and dinner spots, two cafes are taking the lead in Karaköy: Julius Meinl, also known as Karabatak Karaköy, and Ops Café.

Both these venues have the ideal chill-out settings, for a coffee break, a forget-the-workweek kind of Sunday brunch, a quick lunch break, or tête-à-têtes over tea and dessert. Julius Meinl, which has been open for over a year now, has been attracting a steady stream of customers, and it’s no wonder once you see the venue. The two-story coffee shop takes you into a different world, with the most soothing music playing in the background, sunlight beaming through the windows, and the perfect coffee smell tickling your senses.

The décor is quite special, too, with checkered floors, stacks of coffee beans, nostalgic posters, out-of-your-grandmother’s-house furniture pieces, beautifully worn-out colorful walls, and an overall dream-like interior. The second floor, which is easy to miss out on because the stairs are located right behind the counter, is very similar to but also very different from the first floor. The décor here is on the same line but with an even more homey feel with hardwood floors, colorful carpets, warm navy-blue walls, and hanging lamps. The atmosphere is much calmer here than it is downstairs, almost like a public library, with most tables occupied by individuals, reading, doing work, or contemplating the meaning of life in this room where the dormant philosopher in you will definitely wake up. Downstairs is more social, with tables mostly occupied by small groups chatting over coffee. Now that the weather is warm enough, the outdoor seating is also a great option, especially for watching the Karaköy crowd pass by or reading one of the magazines available, like the New Yorker or the Monocle.

The Austrian origin of Julius Meinl is visible in its food menu, which includes a delicious Schnitzel (chicken or beef) and Frankfurter. There is also less Austrian additions, like soup (broccoli or mushroom), penne arabiata and penne pesto. For breakfast or brunch, you can go for a classic platter, an omelet, a bowl of cornflakes, or something sweet like pancakes and muffins. Don’t let the three-page long coffee list overwhelm you, just ask your friendly waiter to guide you in the right direction. This is a great place to get adventurous and try something that you’ve never even heard of before, like Wiener Melange, a cappuccino-like coffee made with mild coffee, steamed milk, and foam. You’ll probably be tempted to get a dessert, too, and we say go for it and take your pick from the wide range of delicious desserts, like the brownie, the apple pie, or the sacher torte (Austrian chocolate cake). Remember to take a look at their tea menu as well, which offers interesting flavors, like Mohr Red (made with strawberry, raspberry, blackberry, and cloves) and Mohr Blossom (made with rose petals, vanilla, orange, and jasmine).

The other hot spot in Karaköy is Ops Café, which recently opened in February. Ops is owned and managed by a retired captain, which explains the elements of nautical décor and sailor’s knots in the venue. Much smaller in size than the neighboring Julius Meinl, Ops Café is a similarly cozy venue, with a limited menu (featuring few salads, pastas, sandwiches, and wraps).

Decorated much like a lounge area, with its center featuring an inviting couch and a coffee table, it’s the details that make Ops Café special, like the succulent plants that adorn each table, the small bookcase by the couch, and the rope ladder hung to the ceiling with a hook. You’ll also see artworks adorning the walls. We suggest you take a good look (and ask for the price if you like what you see) because they’re not the permanent décor but a short-term exhibition of works by creatively inclined, passionate people.

Many frequent Ops Café for its breakfast platter, which comes with a variety of cheese, dried meat, olives, and honey, and that’s why the venue is always crowded on weekends. Ops works on a first-come first-serve basis, so if you want to start your Sunday with a breakfast at Ops, go as early as you can to secure a spot.

Julius Meinl/Karabatak Karaköy, Kemankeş Karamustafa Paşa Mahallesi, Ali Kaptan Sokak No. 7, Karaköy; P: (0212) 243 63 93

Ops Café, Mumhane Caddesi Nimet Han 45 B, Karaköy; P: (0212) 245 02 88

At KronotRop, the beans are ground the moment that the coffee is ordered by the customer, meaning that everything served is made-to-order and thus presented as fresh as possible. Other coffee shops let ground coffee sit around for days, not taking into consideration the fact that about ten minutes after a bag of ground coffee is opened, it begins to go bad. The other factor, the quality of the actual bean, takes the form of single origin coffee, that, like specific vineyards for wine, refer to a single geographical location where the bean is harvested and exported. Krontrop’s single origin coffee varieties range from such titles as “Ethiopia Konga Peaberry Natural” to “Sumatra Takengon Gayon Mountains Double Picked Fully Washed” among many others.

KronotRop is the first and only micro-roaster in Istanbul, decked-out in award-winning Nuova Simonella espresso coffee machines and a chalkboard menu that offers an array of options, most notably the red eye, which is a shot of espresso followed by a cup of filtered coffee. Once you drink the coffee made lovingly by the dedicated hands of Gülabioğlu himself, there is a serious risk that you will never go back to regular coffee again.

KronotRop, Kuloğlu Mahallesi Yeniçarşı Caddesi No. 5/B, Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 249 92 71

Lentil and Goat's Cheese Salad at House Cafe: Now that spring is here, it's all the more enjoyable to lunch at the House Cafe branch in Ortaköy. Their lentil and goat's cheese salad, topped with a small tower of greens, is a delicious,healthful option. Salhane Sokak No. 1, Ortaköy; P: (0212) 227 26 99

Çingene and Pirpirim Salad at ZerafEt:Some of the greatest things are found in the most unlikely places, like flavorful salads at a kebab restaurant. ZerafEt is one of the best kebab restaurants in Istanbul (it made it to our Editor’s Choice list in March), and, in addition to a range of delicious meat dishes (click here to read about them all), their menu includes a range of salads, like our favorite çingene salatası(which literally means gypsy salad). It is made with a mix of 14 different greens (that change seasonally), and, on our visit, included rocket,pirpirim(wild purslane), basil, cucumber, beetroot, pomegranate seeds, green onions, lolorosso, topped with virgin olive oil,nar ekşisi, and lemon. The runner up was the gloriousAntep pirpirim salatası, made with fresh purslane, fresh onions, cucumber, green olives, tomato, sumac, flaked red pepper, oregano, dry mint, and topped with virgin olive oil andnar ekşisi.Adnan Saygun Caddesi Leylah Apartmanı No.1 14/B, Ulus; P: (0212) 352 60 75

GBK Salad at GBK: Another unlikely find was the GBK Salad at GBK, one of Istanbul’s best burger joints. Made with mixed greens, fresh onions, cherry tomatoes, pine nuts, and avocado, this delicious salad can almost be considered a substitute for their juicy burgers.Kanyon Shopping Mall, Büyükdere Caddesi No. 185, Levent; P: (0212) 353 03 23

Warm potato salad with sprouted lentils at Journey:Located in the heart of Cihangir,Journeyis the meeting spot of Istanbul’s artists and hipsters. You’ll find a range of delicious dishes here, one of which is a very rare salad. The energizingçimlendirilmiş mercimekli ılık patates salatasıis made with sprouted lentils, rocket, cress, fresh coriander, and potatoes. Theirrokalı pancar salatası, made with rocket, beetroot, goat’s cheese, cranberries, and walnuts (with a sauce of your choice), is also a great choice.Akarsu Caddesi No.21/A, Cihangir; P: (0212) 244 89 89

Wheat and sea bass salad at Numnum:One of the great things about Numnum is its comprehensive menu. Here, you’ll get a range of salad options as well, 10 to be exact. The best we’ve had so far is the taze otlu buğday & ızgara levrek salatası, made with wheat, grilled sea bass, grilled vegetables, tomatoes, and greens, topped with vinaigrette sauce and served with rye crisps.Kanyon Shopping Mall, Büyükdere Caddesi No. 185, Levent; P: (0212) 353 07 08

Purslane and Fresh spices salads at Backyard: Whether you’re sitting outside by the garden or enjoying the cozy interior, Backyard is a great spot for lunch. Their semizotu ve şeftali salad, made with Backyard-grown purslane, grilled peaches, and sweet lor peyniri (soft, ricotta-likecheese) from the Aegean city of Çeşme, sprinkled with pomegranate molasses and olive oil is a delicious salad. Another very green and tasty salad is the taze baharat salatası, made with baby spinach, rocket, parsley, dill, thyme, and oven-fried almonds, sprinkled with olive oil and lemon. Bebeköy Sokak No. 1, Etiler; P: (0212) 287 15 00

Tomato Salad at Balıkçı Kahraman:This simple but delicious salad isBalıkçı Kahraman’s specialty. They won’t get into too much detail, but the main ingredients are organic tomatoes, high-quality olive oil, and vinegar. Perfectaccompaniment to grilled fish.Iskele Caddesi No. 15, Rumeli Kavağı; P: (0212) 242 64 47

Grilled Fish

The ubiquitous waterfront views that decorate the Istanbul experience are also the inspiration behind fresh fish served in the simplest manner. Grilled, with an accompanying lemon and leafy greens (most often arugula), fish is a variant and delicious option.

Vegetables (Cold)

Vegetables cooked with olive oil and served cold are one of the most popular options in the Turkish kitchen and sometimes constitute as a whole meal rather than just an appetizer, especially in the warmer months. Cold vegetable dishes make use of bakla (horse bean), pırasa (leek), yer elması (sunchoke), barbunya (kidney bean), kereviz (celery), and enginar (artichoke).

Vegetables (Hot)

Other vegetables are cooked and served hot, sometimes accompanied by yoghurt. The best way to cook these vegetables is in a pressure cooker to make sure that the vitamins and minerals of the vegetable are not lost. The four most common dishes in this category are kurufasulye (white beans), taze fasulye (string beans), bezelye (peas)semizotu (purslane), and ıspanak (spinach), kabak kalyesi (squash cooked with tomatoes, onions and dill).

Yoghurt

Yoghurt sometimes appears as a kind of universal sauce for a lot of dishes, whether meat or vegetable. However yoghurt is also served as a drink, appropriate with a bit of salt and served cold in the summer months (ayran).

Bulgur and Lentils

Bulgur (cracked wheat) is healthy alternative to rice and can be complemented with various vegetables such as lentil or spinach to make an all around delicious meal. Lentils are a big part of Turkish cooking displayed in various forms from mercimek çorbası (red lentil soup) or mercimek yemeği (green lentil soup) to mercimek köftesi (lentil balls).

Musafir Indian Restaurant: The son of an Indian father and a Pakistani mother, İram Rana is an Indian-cuisine aficionado with such great Turkish language skills that you could easily mistake him for a native. He is the owner of Musafir, one of Istanbul’s best Indian restaurants located right by Taksim Square. The menu at this casual eatery includes all-time favorite Indian dishes, like samosas, raitas, chicken tikka, butter chicken, lamb rogan josh, and more. They also have nearly 10 varieties of bread to satisfy all your naan cravings. Keep in mind that Musafir gets quite full for dinner, so plan ahead and make reservations before going. Recep Paşa Caddesi No. 7 C Talimhane, Taksim; P: (0212) 235 27 41

Taj Mahal:Located by the stairs that connect Tünel to Şişhane, Taj Mahal is one of Istanbul’s few Indian restaurants with a great location and good food. Prepared by the Pakistani chef Zia Mehmood, you’ll find all your favorite Indian dishes here, from the samosa to the pakora from the tikka masala to tarka dhal. The menu offers a wide selection of vegetarian and meat dishes, such as Kashmiri lamb chops (chops boiled in milk and then fried with spices), crowd-pleasing dahls, curries, and rice. If you’re a meat fan, we highly recommend that you try the Lamb Korma.Nergis Sokak No. 4A, Asmalımescit; P: (0212) 293 66 00

Dubb:Looking over at an imposing view of the Haghia Sophia while eating excellent Indian food? Only possible at theDubb, the five-storied Indian restaurant that boasts a lovely terrace over the Old City and a soothing garden below. Prepared by Head Chef Vinod Kumar Chouhan and his team, Dubb’s menu specializes in Northern Indian cuisine, and includes soups and salads, curry dishes (vegetarian as well as meat and chicken), a variety of Tandoori dishes, delicious naan breads, and desserts.Incili Çavuş Sokak No. 10, Sultanahmet; P: (0212) 513 73 08

This year, the festival will be held at the following cinemas, museums and cultural centers: Atlas Cinema, AFM Fitaş, Beyoğlu Cinema, Citylife, Rexx Cinema in Kadıköy, the Pera Museum, Salon IKSV, and Akbank Sanat. Last week, we wrote about the festival at length, letting you in on the best films in each cateogory of the festival. Now, here is a list of restaurants to stop by for lunch or dinner before or after savoring a delightful festival film.

Around İstiklal Caddesi

Scrumptious vegetarian food at Zencefil:Zencefil is one of Istanbul’s most established vegetarian restaurants, featuring a menu filled with many wholesome dishes including salads, quiches, and pies made with fresh, seasonal ingredients. Head here for lunch or dinner, and definitely try one of our recommended dishes that include mücver(vegetable fritter or pancakes), beans with tarragon, eggplant with goat’s cheese, and green Lasagna. For a full review of Zencefil,click here. (Note: Take the first right after the French Consulate building on İstiklal Caddesi, then take the first left. You'll see the pretty green sign for Zencefil on your right.) Kurabiye Sokak No. 8, Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 243 82 34

Circassian dishes at Fıccın:Located right across the Saint Antoine Catholic Church, Fıccın is a great lunch spot and one of the few Istanbul restaurants serving Circassian dishes. In this simple and cozy eatery, you’ll find many dishes available at most Turkish restaurants with a few Circassian specialties thrown in the mix, like çerkez tavuğu (a creamy dish made with shredded chicken, puréed walnuts, and garlic) and the Circassian version ofmantı (stuffed with either meat or potatoes). İstiklal Caddesi Kallavi Sokak, Beyoğlu; P:(0212) 293 37 86

International fare at TagCafe & Bistro:Located right next to Galeri Arter, Tag Cafe & Bistro is a small and cozy restaurant that offers weekly menues prepared with the freshest seasonal ingredients. A great spot for lunch or dinner, here you might find yourself eating chili con carne (an exquisite meat dish served with rice), tagliatelle, teriyaki chicken, classic zeytinyağlı dishes, or burritos. İstiklal Caddesi Postacılar Sokak No.1/A, Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 243 68 42

Indian at Govinda:A good option for lunch, Govinda is one of the few Indian-inspired restaurants in the city, offering a menu filled with fried food, such as the pakora (fried battered vegetables) and samosas (fried vegetable-stuffed pastries). You’ll also find un-fried meals, salads, and soups. The must-have beverage is the lassi—a fragrant yogurt and fruit concoction. K.M. Çelebi Mahallesi İpek Sokak No.15, Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 252 40 15

Burger and fries at Dükkan Burger: Dükkan Burger is a perfect spot for indulging in a classic burger and fries during lunch. Besides the classics, you’ll find a few inventive burgers but nothing too overwhelming. Their patties have intense beef flavor, are cooked to order (although they prefer serving it medium), and are served on toasted sesame buns with lettuce, tomato, and onions. It’s simple, straightforward, and they know just how to serve a good burger! The lip-smacking fries, seasoned with salt and ground black pepper, served in paper bags are oh so inviting, too! Istiklal Caddesi No.261, Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 252 91 91

Chicken wings and beer at Bi buçuk:Bi Buçuk is a local favorite for enjoying a night with a bucket of wings, a bowl of French fries, and beer. The menu does offer a variety of other equally guilty pleasures like onion rings, mozzarella sticks, and steak. Süslü Saksı Sokak No. 14-18, Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 244 70 10

Around Pera/Şişhane

Italian food at Da Vittorio:Da Vittorio is a cozy and authentic Italian restaurant located in Tünel. Candles on each table, little flowers, black and white prints on the walls create a pleasant atmosphere and makes it an ideal spot for a romantic dinner. Meşrutiyet Caddesi No.70, Ansen Suites, Tünel; P: (0212) 245 88 17

Pizza at Miss Pizza:One of the most popular pizzerias in Istanbul, Miss Pizza is a warm and cozy eatery, perfect for lunch or dinner, offering authentic Italian pizza with a variety of gourmet toppings. Recommended dishes include Pizza Crudo with smoked bacon and arugula, and the Pizza Pesto with zucchini and ricotta cheese on a pesto sauce base. Meşrutiyet Caddesi No. 86, Şişhane; P: (0212) 251 32 34

Mediterranean cuisine at Mikla:Located on the rooftop of the Marmara Pera Hotel, Mikla is a chic and sophisticated restaurant with a fantastic view of the Golden Horn. Head to Mikla for dinner, open a bottle of wine, and enjoy an excellent meal overlooking the beautiful city. The Marmara Pera, Meşrutiyet Caddesi 167/185, Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 293 56 56

Turkish and Mediterranean cuisine at Enstitü:Enstitü is the workplace and (skilled) experimentation zone of Istanbul Culinary Institute’s third-year students. Here, the menu changes daily and includes a variety of appetizers, main courses, and desserts. Some highlights of previous menus include mücver (a vegetable fritter usually prepared with zucchini) made with pumpkin; lamb stew with dried fruits, almonds, and sumac; and köfte (meatballs) with pita bread, yogurt, and tomato sauce. Meşrutiyet Caddesi No. 59, Tepebaşı; P: (0212) 251 22 14

Around Nişantaşı

Turkish food at Hünkar:Hünkar is an upscale version of a classic tradesman’s restaurant (esnaf lokantası) that is a great choice for lunch or dinner. Here, you’ll find a range of soups, mezes, olive oil dishes, meat dishes, and seasonal fish. They’ve also recently created a tasting menu that is filled with must-try dishes like grilled meatballs (with rice and grilled tomato and pepper), stewed watercress, and hünkar beğendi (smoked eggplant puree topped with lamb or beef). Mim Kemal Öke Caddesi No. 21, Nişantaşı; P: (0212) 225 46 65

International fare at Delicatessen:A hip joint at the heart of Nişantaşı, Delicatessen offers dozens of choices from steak burger to fresh fish, and most dishes come with scrumptious sides. Enjoy lunch or dinner with the trendy Nişantaşı crowd. Mim Kemal Öke Caddesi No.19/1, Nişantaşı; P: (0212) 225 06 04

Traditional Turkish food at Borsa:Located within the Lütfi Kırdar Convention Center,Borsa is an established restaurant dedicated to traditionalTurkish cuisine. Borsa has been a classic since 1927, and is an ideal spot for lunch or dinner. Lütfi Kırdar Convention Center, Gümüş Caddesi No.4, Harbiye; P: (0212) 232 42 01

Turkish and International dishes at Park Şamdan:A chic spot for lunch or dinner, Park Şamdanis an established fine-dining restaurant that serves Turkish and international dishes. Theirpaça çorbası(leg of lamb soup), risottolu dana kaburga(beef rib with risotto),keşkül(almond-based milk pudding), andkaymaklı ekmek kadayıfı(crumpets with syrup and clotted cream) come highly recommended. Mim Kemal Öke Caddesi No. 18/1, Nişantaşı; P: (0212) 225 07 10

French food at Nişantaşı Brasserie:Located on the trendiest crossroad in Nişantaşı, Nişantaşı Brasserie is the meeting point for Istanbul’s glitterati. The menu is very French, with salmon, beef carpaccio, and great summer desserts, as well as a variety of European dishes. Definitely a great spot for lunch, especially if people-watching is one of your favorite activities. Abdi İpekçi Caddesi No. 23/1, Nişantaşı; P: (0212) 343 04 43

Around Kadıköy

Eclectic dishes from the Middle East at Çiya: Çiya is a casual lunch spot that offers delicacies from Syria, Georgia, southern Iran, and all parts of Turkey. Expect to find interesting versions of favorite staple dishes, for example stuffed artichoke rather than the usual stuffed pepper, grilled loquats filled with rice and minced meat mixtures, or caramelized onions atop the classic dolma.Güneşli Bahçesi Sokak No. 43, Kadıköy; P: (0216) 330 31 90

Ottoman cuisine at Güler Osmanlı Mutfağı: Güler Osmanlı Mutfağı is a humble tradesman’s restaurant that serves as a good choice for lunch, offering selections from Ottoman cuisine. Some favorites include hünkâr beğendi (smoked eggplant puree topped with lamb or beef), beğendili köfte (meatballs served on a bed of eggplant puree), and galaçoş (lentil, onion, and yogurt dish). Make sure to try their dessert specialties - the Osmanlı Tatlısı (prepared with shredded wheat, walnuts, and yogurt) and Padişah Tatlısı (prepared with semolina halvah and cream). Hasanpaşa Kurbağalıdere No. 74/A, Kadıköy; P: (0216) 348 22 45

Ottoman cuisine at Yanyalı Fehmi Lokantası:Yanyalı Fehmi is another humble tradesman’s restaurant in Kadıköy, offering an extensive menu with over 15 types of soup, nearly 10 varieties of rice dishes, kebabs, grills, vegetarian dishes, olive oil dishes, fish, and dessert. The specialty of the house is Yanyan Köftesi –meatballs prepared with beef & lamb, eggplant, tomatoes, hazelnut, and spices. Yağlıkçı Ismail Sokak No. 1, Kadıköy; P: (0216) 336 33 33

In Turkey, the most popular and widely-used legumes are fava beans, kidney beans, black-eyes peas, chickpeas, and lentils. Legumes play a significant role in the Turkish diet, and are found in a variety of shapes, sizes, and forms in most Istanbul eateries. They are cooked with meat or without meat, prepared as salads, served as zeytinyağlı (olive oil) dishes, turned into soups, made into drinks and even desserts,and found in meze platters.

For legume-lovers in Istanbul, here is a list of best legume dishes around town:

Black-eyed pea salad at Zerafet: A mix of black-eyed peas, fresh onions, cucumber, and capsicum,börülce salatasıis only one of the delicious salads atZerafEt. While you’re there, definitely order a serving ofpastırmalı humus(hummus with Turkish spicy sausage). Even though this dish is notorious for being overwhelmingly oily and heavy, it somehow feels deceptively light at ZerafEt. (Click hereto read a full review of ZerafEt.)

Piyaz at Ali Baba Köftecisi: This salad is made with white kidney beans, onions, tomatoes. You can sprinkle it with olive oil, vinegar, and lemon juice and top it with oregano and chili flakes for the ultimate experience. Of course, it is best enjoyed with a serving of Ali Baba’s famous meatballs.

Yuvalama Çorbası at Develi: Yuvalama çorbası is made with rice, meat, chickpeas, yogurt, onion, and mint, and is a great start to a kebab dinner at Develi.

Kuru fasulye at Fasuli: Fasuli is a tradesman’s restaurant in Karaköy specializing in dishes from the Eastern Black Sea region. Their signature dish iskuru fasulye & pilav(white kidney beans and rice).

Warm potato salad with sprouted lentils at Journey:This warm potato salad with sprouted lentils (referred to as çimlendirilmiş mercimekli ılık patates salatası on the menu) at Journey is very tasty but more importantly energizing. Plus you get to be surrounded by Cihangir’s hipsters while you eat it. (Click here for a full review of Journey.)

Fava atHünkar:Fava is a specialty of Hünkar and is definitely a must-try for those who love fava beans. It must be noted that theirmercimek köftesi(lentil balls) also top the list of must-try legume dishes. Theiraşure (a pudding made primarily with chickpeas, kidney beans, rice, and sugar, then topped with walnuts, pistachios, pomegranate, almonds, and cinnamon) is a legume-based dessert that is also top notch.

Kuru fasulye at Bizce Kuru: You'll find classickuru fasulye(kidney beans) cooked to perfection at Bizce Kuru. Enjoy it with a serving of buttery rice, very good thick yogurt, and peasant bread.

Lentil soup at Park Şamdan or Şans: Both Park Şamdan and Şans make a terrific lentil soup.

Spicy sausage (with pistachios) and hummus at müzedechanga: Müzedechanga's fıstıklı Changa sucuk ve humus is a modern take on a traditional dish. The sausage is juicy on the inside and crispy on the outside, and the hummus is just perfection. (Click here for a full review of müzedechanga.)

Bomba fasulye at Kıyı: Unlike the typical pilaki you find at most fish restaurants, bomba fasulyeat Kıyı is made with large kidney beans, and cooked with tomato paste and onions in a casserole. Yum!

Black-eyed pea salad at 9 Ece Aksoy: 9 Ece Aksoy’s hands-on owner and chef Ece uses only local and seasonal ingredients, and puts out a deliciousbörülce salatası(black-eyed pea salad) served on a bed of inviting greens.

Mung bean salad at Nar Lokanta:Maş piyazı at Nar Lokantais a light and simple dish of mung beans with fresh onions and herbs, dressed with a pomegranate sauce that gives it a wonderful tangy flavor.

Chana Masala at Musafir: Chana Masala is a simply delicious chickpea curry best enjoyed at Musafir.

Kuru fasulye at Çanak: Cooked over a barbeque for over 5 hours, the kuru fasulye at Çanak comes all the way from the Eastern city of Erzurum. It is served plain, with beef, or with pastırma (Turkish cured beef). Make sure to order a serving of rice and pickles., too.

Boza at Vefa Bozacısı: Traditionally sold on chilly winter evenings in on the streets,bozais a creamy and slightly sweet yet acidic drink made from fermented wheat. It is best enjoyed with a dusting of cinnamon on top atVefa Bozacısı.

For recipes of delicious legume dishes, order your copy ofIstanbul Contemporary Cuisine by Hande Bozdoğan and Lale Apa.

Indeed, Ottoman cuisine is all the rage in Istanbul’s culinary scene these days. Turks have been gripped with Ottomania, with a growing interest in all things related to the Ottoman Empire’s history and culture. Consequently, many are starting to rediscover Turkey’s multi-ethnic heritage, particularly when it comes to food. The rich ethnic tapestry of the Ottoman Empire resulted in a cuisine with many diverse influences and layers of flavors. This is largely due to the fact that, at its peak, the Ottoman Empire covered vast territories and comprised many ethnic groups. Along with Greeks, Armenians, Kurds, and Jews, there were also numerous lesser-known minority groups such as the Circassians, Laz, Turkmen, Assyrians, and many more.

While there are now many high-end restaurants, such as Divan’s Lokanta, that specialize in Ottoman court cuisine, the city is also dotted with many smaller, lower-profile eateries serving the food of Turkey’s many minority groups. Some of these restaurants are family-run, modest affairs that cater to these minority communities, while others have managed to win a more mainstream following. We decided to explore what Istanbul has to offer when it comes to these more obscure cuisines, or what we like to call “Empire Ethnic” cuisine.

Fıccın

The New Italians in Town

Emporio Armani Ristorante: What used to be Armani Café in İstinyePark shopping mall turned into Emporio Armani Ristorante last month. We finally went and tried it last week, and it was an instant winner. The elegantly decorated restaurant has it all: an extensive menu featuring Italian classics, smooth music that’s conducive to enjoying a glass of wine, and an outdoor dining area perfect for the warm days ahead. On a typical day, you may come across businesspeople discussing serious projects over their secondi piatti, and ladies-who-lunch passing along the latest pilates trend over a cup of frothy cappuccino. Emporio Armani Ristorante is definitely a great choice while shopping at İstinyePark but it’s also a great destination whenever you crave scrumptious Italian food. İstinyePark Shopping Mall, Istinye Bayırı Caddesi No. 73, İstinye; P: (0212) 345 61 40

Morro:Morro, located just off İstiklal Caddesi, is a classic Italian restaurant that specializes in pizza. If you’re looking for an alternative to your usual pre-party dinner spot, Morro offers a wide selection of pizzas so there is something for everyone.Kumbaracı Yokuşu No.66, Tünel; P:(0212) 292 25 50

PiPa: PiPa opened up in Nişantaşı at the end of 2011. If you haven’t been there yet, definitely do check it out for the atmosphere – it has quite a unique décor, the diners are the stylish Nişantaşı crowd, and the wait staff is very friendly. But note that the food is overpriced for what it is. Süleyman Nazif Sokak Şebnem Apartmanı No.7/B, Nişantaşı; P: (0212) 225 74 72

Leon Trattoria/Pizzeria:Leon Trattoria/Pizzeria, located behind the Teşvikiye Camii, is a fairly small restaurant that carries an offbeat, low-key ambiance. If you’re looking for a reasonably priced Italian restaurant around Teşvikiye, do check out Leon Trattoria. Their pizzas can be hit or miss.Ahmet Fetgari Sokak No.40/A, Teşvikiye; P: (0212) 233 46 88

The Favorites

Antica Locanda:Antica Locanda is an impeccably-decorated venue offering top-quality Italian food in a warm and friendly setting. Located in a romantic cobble-stone street in Arnavutköy next to the Greek Orthodox Church in a small villa, Antica Locanda’s menu is not extensive, but all that is on offer is scrumptious. Make sure you enjoy your meal or at least post-meal coffee by the beautiful garden. Satış Meydanı No.12, Arnavutköy; P: (0212) 287 97 45

Papermoon:Located very conveniently by the entrance of the Akmerkez shopping mall in Etiler,Papermoonis known for its delicious food, cozy atmosphere, sleek and modern design, and meticulous service. The founding principle of Papermoon is to offer light, flavorful, and fresh Italian dishes with impeccable presentation. The venue boasts a very chic bar, which makes it an ideal spot for after-work drinks. It’s also a very popular spot for business dinners and lunches, as well as family dinners and special occasions.Adnan Saygun Caddesi, Akmerkez Residence Entrance Level, No. 224, Etiler; P: (0212) 282 16 16

Da Vittorio:Da Vittoriois a cozy and authentic Italian restaurant located in Tünel. Candles on each table, little flowers, black and white prints on the walls create a pleasant atmosphere. Certainly an excellent date venue.Meşrutiyet Caddesi No.70, Ansen Suites, Tünel; P: (0212) 245 88 17

Miss Pizza:The Cihangir branch of Miss Pizza is the meeting spot of Istanbul’s hipsters and artists. If you are looking for authentic Italian pizza with a variety of gourmet toppings, look no further. All pizzas are made fresh in the brick oven, with a delicious thin and crispy crust.Havyar Sokak No. 7, Cihangir; P: (0212) 251 32 78

Cipriani: The Istanbul branch of this famous New York restaurant received some bad reviews when it first opened in 2011, but Cipriani quickly pulled itself together, and even made it to TOP 7 Restaurant Hot Spots in The Guide Istanbul’s TOP 7 pocket guide. Levent Mahallesi Büyükdere Caddesi No. 2 The Edition Hotel, Levent; P: (0212) 317 77 87

Aqua:Bring together your love of Italian food with your love of the Bosphorus atAqua Restaurantlocated within Four Seasons Bosphorus. Enjoy Italian specialties while looking over the beautiful Bosphorus from the terrace.Four Seasons Istanbul Hotel at the Bosphorus, Çırağan Caddesi No. 28, Beşiktaş; P: (0212) 381 40 59

Piola: If you’re after true Italian pizza, Piola specializes in a variety of pizzas from the Treviso region (the menu also offers pasta, salads, and delectable desserts). Located within Point Hotel, this colorful restaurant is the second branch of this Treviso-based eatery. After you’re done with your meal, we suggest you go for a hot drink like "Cafe Cornetta" (Italian coffee with grappa). Point Hotel, Yıldız Posta Caddesi No. 29, Esentepe; P: (0212) 337 30 70

Your lover is a sucker for beautiful views:Then all you have to do is arrange dinner somewhere where you can see Istanbul in all her glory. If you prefer a view of the Golden Horn and the Old City, head toMiklawhere you’ll get a fixed pricemenu of two starters, a main course, dessert, and local wine for 210TL per person. If you prefer a Bosphorus view, head toUlus 29where you’ll get a fixed price menu for 200TL per person (including local drinks). The menu includes goat cheese and beetroot salad, mushroom ravioli, steak, and dessert. Sonia Herring will also be there for a live performance of soul, jazz, and blues.Mikla,The Marmara Pera, Meşrutiyet Caddesi 167/185, Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 293 56 56. Ulus 29, A. Adnan Saygun Caddesi Ulus Parkı İçi, Ulus; P: (0212) 358 29 29.

Your lover loves all things from the sea:That’s an easy one! Head to Bebek Balıkçı or Sur Balık for a delicious seafood meal. If your partner likes classic things, Bebek Balıkçı may be more appealing (there’ll be a group playing guitar and violin on the night of the 14th from 7pm onwards). If your partner is more adventurous, especially when it comes to food, you may want to pick Sur Balık - they have some interesting dishes there, like balık mantısı (fish-filled dumplings, slathered in a garlic-yogurt sauce and dusted with herbs). Bebek Balıkçı, Cevdet Paşa Caddesi No. 26A, Bebek; P: (0212) 263 34 47. Sur Balık, Bebek Arnavutköy Caddesi No.52, Arnavutköy; P: (0212) 257 27 43.

Your lover is an aspiring hippie:Well, Kiva is no vegan restaurant, but it’s a restaurant that celebrates and supports local and seasonal food. So, take your down-to-earth lover to Kiva for some traditional Anatolian food. The Valentine’s Day special menu will include a mixed meze platter of mezes from 7 different regions of Turkey, followed by a dish from Tokat, one from Elazığ, and one from Diyarbakır. The meal, which will include unlimited local drinks, dessert, and Turkish coffee, costs 120 TL per person. Oh, and did we mention you’ll be right at the base of the Galata Tower? Galata Tower Square No. 4, Galata; P: (0212) 292 00 37

Your lover can’t have anything but the best:Changa is the recipient of “Best New Restaurant” award (Wallpaper – Design Awards 2007) and it’s under the consultancy of world-renowned chef Peter Gordon. Need we say more? Didn’t think so! Just remember that Changa offers a fixed price menu of 125 TL per person (including a glass of wine) that includes three starters, a main course, and dessert. Live music will liven up the place from 9pm onwards. Changa, Sıraselviler Caddesi No. 47/1, Taksim; P: (0212) 251 70 64

You both live on the Asian Side:For your sanity’s sake, stay on the Asian side! Instead of spending a few hours in traffic traveling to and from the European side, spend those hours bonding (whichever way you please). For dinner, we suggest you go to Zanzibar. There’ll be a fixed price menu of 85TL and slow Turkish music playing throughout the night. Cemil Topuzlu Caddesi Köşk Sokak No. 112, Caddebostan; P: (0216) 385 64 30

You don’t care about a special Valentine’s Day menu or event – you just want good food and a romantic atmosphere:Well, then you’ve got lots of options. Enjoy wonderful views of the Bosphorus and go for what your heart desires – the best of Japanese or Turkish cuisine at Sunset. Indulge in pasta or pizza at Da Vittorio, the cutest Italian restaurant in town, or head to Papermoon, if you’re after a more serious setting. If you want great views and great food, head to Vogue. For a traditional seafood restaurant, head to Kıyı, or if you want a cozier atmosphere nestled between Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque, head to Balıkçı Sabahattin. If you’re serious when it comes to music and wine, make your reservations at Riserva. If you want local and seasonal food at a cozy restaurant, Backyard is the way to go.

Sunset, Adnan Saygun Caddesi Yol Sokak No. 2 Ulus Parkı, Ulus; P: (0212) 287 03 57

Da Vittorio, Meşrutiyet Caddesi No.70, Ansen Suites, Tünel; P: (0212) 245 88 17

Papermoon, Adnan Saygun Caddesi, Akmerkez Residence Entrance Level, No. 224, Etiler; P: (0212) 282 16 16

Vogue, Süleyman Seba Caddesi BJK Plaza A Blok, Akaretler; P: (0212) 227 44 04

Kıyı, Haydar Aliyev Caddesi No. 186, Tarabya; P: (0212) 262 00 02

Balıkçı Sabahattin, Seyt Hasankuyu Sokak No. 1, Sultanahmet; P: (0212) 458 18 24

Riserva,Haydar Aliyev Cadesi No. 198/A, Tarabya; P: (0212) 299 41 41

Backyard,Bebeköy Sokak No. 1, Etiler; P: (0212) 287 15 00

If you’re after a simple meal that starts off with a flavorful soup, head to one of Istanbul’s esnaf lokantaları (tradesmen’s restaurants). For the best tradesmen’s restaurants in Istanbul, click here. In addition to typical home-cooked meals, you’ll find a range of Turkish soups, such as mercimek çorbası (lentil soup), ezogelin çorbası (red lentil and cracked wheat soup), tavuk suyu çobrası (chicken soup), yayla çorbası (yogurt-based soup with rice and mint), paça çorbası (leg of lamb soup), işkembe çorbası (tripe soup), and tarhana çorbası (tarhana soup).

Hünkar is an upscale version of a classic tradesmen’s restaurant. They have at least three varieties of soup on a given day, and they are best known for their leg of lamb soup.

If you want to go fancy on your soup, here is a list of the best soups in Istanbul:

When you head to the stylish Nişantaşı neighborhood for a shopping spree, take a break at Nişantaşı Brasserie and try their onion soup. Alternatively, head to Park Şamdan for a bowl of leg of lamb soup or lentil soup.

If you work in or around Levent, you know that Şans is a great spot for business lunches. Next time you’re there, make sure you order their delicious lentil soup.

When you head to Beyoğlu, you may feel the need to warm up before setting off on your night of barhopping. Baylo’s beetroot soup comes highly recommended for anyone barhopping in the Şişhane area. And if you’re after something ethnic, Çok Çok Thai’s Tom Ka Kai is just what you need.

If you want to try the best fish soup in Istanbul, head to Tarihi Karaköy Balıkçısı - it’s certainly worth the hefty price tag.

Hünkar, Mim Kemal Öke Caddesi No.21, Nişantaşı; P: (0212) 225 46 65

Nişantaşı Brasserie, Abdi İpekçi Caddesi No. 23/1, Nişantaşı; P: (0212) 343 04 43

Park Şamdan, Mim Kemal Öke Caddesi No. 18/1, Nişantaşı; P: (0212) 225 07 10

Şans, Hacı Adil Caddesi Palmiye Sokak No.1, Levent; P: (0212) 280 38 38

Baylo, Asmalımescit Mahallesi Meşrutiyet Caddesi No.107A, Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 243 60 18

ÇokÇok Thai, Meşrutiyet Caddesi No. 51, Tepebaşı; P: (0212) 292 64 96

Tarihi Karaköy Balıkçısı, Kardeşim Sokak No. 45 Grifin Han, Karaköy; P: (0212) 243 40 80

Lavanda Boutique Hotel & Restaurant, Ulupelit Köyü Seçkin Sokak No.2, Şile; P: (0216) 736 56 40

Pizza:Pizza Picco is a reasonably-priced eatery that delivers your food while it’s still hot. Don’t expect to find the finest prosciutto on your pizza, but rest assured that you’ll get a rather good one. The Robespierre Pizza comes highly recommended. And we suggest you try the Lasagna alla Bolognese, too – it’s very, very good. To find the branch that delivers to your area, click here.

Burger:Flame-kissed patties, gooey cheese, corn relish, home-made fries...juicy indeed! To enjoy a quality burger, just order what looks the most appetizing to you on Burger House’s menu. If you want to order a side, go for the haloumi stick. To find the branch that delivers to your area, click here.

The Burger:Order Lokum from Nusr-Et Burger. We don’t have the words to describe how delicious it is. Just order one and see for yourself. Call (0212) 265 45 02 to place an order.

Asian:Little China & Sushi is a bit on the pricey side, but offers high-quality Asian food for those craving the classics like hot & sour soup, sweet & sour chicken, spring rolls, fried rice, spicy tuna roll, and california roll. Call (0212) 263 17 15 to place an order. If ordering with a group, consider Quick China. It’s not only cheaper but it also offers varied selections of Thai, Chinese, and Japanese cuisine. To find the branch that delivers to your area, click here.

Fish:If you don’t want your entire house to smell like fish for an entire week, order grilled fish from Adem Baba. This is also a great option if you want to have a rakı-fish combo but don’t want to go out. Call (0212) 263 29 33 to place an order.

Chicken:Whether you want something on the healthy side or you’re craving for some comfort food, you’ll find what you’re looking for at WienerWald. The healthiest and tastiest choice is their rotisserie chicken, which is cooked with a 55-year-old special recipe: it is cooked without adding oil, resulting in chicken that is juicy on the inside and crunchy on the outside. And they serve the chicken within 40 minutes of cooking so it’s always fresh and tasty.For some comfort food, go for the wings, kicks, or the schnitzel, with a side of potato wedges, and finish off with a true apple strudel. To find the branch that delivers to your area, click here.

Healthy:The Wrap offers – you guessed it – delicious and healthy wraps, all of which come in two sizes and a side of mashed potatoes with basil. If it’s your first time ordering, we highly recommend the Asian chicken wrap or the slightly less healthy Philly cheese steak. To find the branch that delivers to your area, click here. If you want something a bit more hardcore, check out Cuppa’s extensive menu with a hefty selection of sandwiches, juices, smoothies, salads, soups, and entrees to choose from. Their juice and smoothie options are surely their strongest point. Call (0212) 249 57 23 to place an order.

But this huge covered bazaar takes a while to explore, and you’ll need to refuel at some point. Here is a list of our favorite eateries at or very close to the Grand Bazaar:

Havuzlu:Located very close toŞark Kahvesiin the Grand Bazaar,Havuzluis anesnaf lokantası(tradesman’s restaurant) that was established in 1960. Although the food is that of classic tradesman’s restaurants, the spacious venue is quite opulent, decorated with İznik tiles, old prints, and antique carpets. There are approximately 20 varieties of hot and cold dishes prepared daily, includingdöner. Desserts include the traditionalşekerpare(mini cakes in syrup) andfırın sütlaç(baked rice pudding).Gani Çelebi Sokak No. 3, Grand Bazaar; P: (0212) 527 33 46

Aslan Restaurant: If you want to have good Turkish food and also want to get a bit of fresh air, Aslan Restaurant is the way to go. Located just a few steps from the Nuruosmaniye gate of the Bazaar, Aslan Restaurant is a modest-sized esnaf lokantası (tradesman’s restaurant) offering delicious Turkish comfort food on a daily basis. The menu changes daily, and includes hot dishes, soups, and olive oil dishes. Unlike many tradesman’s restaurants that overdo the butter, the dishes at Aslan are light for a tradesman’s restaurant, and very tasty. You’ll find a variety of Turkish classics: two versions of lentil soup (we strongly recommend ezogelin, made with red lentil, bulgur, tomato paste, and spices), artichoke, stuffed peppers, imambayıldı (an olive oil dish made with eggplant stuffed with onion, garlic, and tomatoes), many meatball varieties, türlü (mixed vegetable dish), döner (roasted lamb), kuru fasulye (beans), and rice. Vezirhan Caddesi No. 70, Çemberlitaş; P: (0212) 513 76 10

Fes Café (small): If you’d rather not go for classic Turkish food and if you don’t want to step outside of the Bazaar, head to Fes Café on Halıcılar Caddesi, a trendy eatery where they serve excellent sandwiches, salads, and coffee. Here you can sip a frothy cappuccino while watching the crowd passing by on this busy artery of the Bazaar. Halıcılar Caddesi No. 62, Grand Bazaar; P: (0212) 528 16 13

Fes Café (large): If you need to take a breather, the larger branch of Fes Café is located just a few steps from the Nuruosmaniye gate, and serves as a chic, modern reprieve from the bustle of the Grand Bazaar. Take your pick from the sandwiches, salads, pastas, and main dishes, and make sure you drink a cup of their beautifully presented Turkish coffee before you head back into the Bazaar. Ali Baba Türbesi Sokak, Nuruosmaniye; P: (0212) 526 30 70-71

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I only do bohemian:If you are happy to indulge in brioche, granola, home-made jams, a variety of cheese, organic eggs, and many more delicious dishes, then head toJourneyin Cihangir.Akarsu Caddesi No.21/A, Cihangir; P: (0212) 244 89 89

I'll need some fresh air:If you want an oxygen-filled breakfast, then take a ride toAsmaaltıin Garipçe to enjoy Black Sea specialties likemıhlama(a dish made with cornmeal, string cheese from the Black Sea region, and butter), as well as cheese, jams,bal-kaymak(honey and clotted cream),tahin-pekmez(sesame paste with thick syrup of molasses),menemen(scrambled eggs with tomato and peppers), and eggs withsucuk(spicy Turkish sausage).Garipçe Köyü, Garipçe; P: (0212) 228 10 70

I must eat pancakes:Happily Ever Afteropens early, and offers a diverse breakfast with everything frommenemento pancakes.Cevdet Paşa Caddesi No. 24, Bebek; P: (0212) 263 41 38

I'll go straight from the club to breakfast:Sade Kahvein Rumeli Hisarı will be open around 6:00am for those who want to go straight from dancing to breakfast. Their regular menu includesbal-kaymak, a variety of cheeses, omelettes,menemen, and much more, all overlooking the Bosphorus.Yahya Kemal Caddesi No. 36/1, Rumelihisarı; P: (0212) 358 23 24

I won't stop drinking:Backyard’s regular brunch menu includes a breakfast plate with eggs and rustic bread, a variety of cheeses, nutella, and jams, as well as pancakes, eggs benedict, granola, and egg brioche. All this topped off with a Bloody Mary cocktail.Bebeköy Sokak No. 1, Etiler; P: (0212) 287 15 00

I want something classic:Enjoy brunch atBebek Koru Kahvesiwith butter, honey, smoked salmon, ham, a variety of cheeses, and eggs.Cevdet Paşa Caddesi No. 120/1, Bebek; P: (0212) 287 56 07

I want to be in Galata:Located right by the Galata Tower,Kivaoffers breakfast that includes natural, regional, Turkish classics.Galata Tower Square No. 4, Galata; P: (0212) 292 00 37

I have a sweet tooth:Enjoy waffles, pancakes, cakes, and fruits plus classic Turkish breakfast fare atDivanin Bebek.Cevdet Paşa Caddesi No. 28/A, Bebek; P: (0212) 263 29 73

I need an excuse to get away:Head toLeonardoin Polonezköy for classic Turkish breakfast fare.Köyiçi Sokak No. 32, Polonezköy; P: (0216) 432 30 82

I'll want to be in a nostalgic neighborhood:Head to Kuzguncuk on the Asian Side for a delicious breakfast atİlya Cafe. They don’t have a regular breakfast/brunch menu, but if you call one day ahead, they can prepare a breakfast based on your preferences.Bican Efendi Sokak No.1A Kuzguncuk, Üsküdür; P: (0216) 553 86 90

I'll be with family:Café Zanzibaris ideal for getting together with the parents and grandparents. Enjoy their classic Turkish breakfast plate as well as omelettes and pancakes.Cemil Topuzlu Caddesi Köşk Sokak No. 112, Caddebostan; P: (0216) 385 64 30

I'm staying in Taksim:Head toŞimdiin Amalımescit for classic Turkish breakfast fare.Asmalımescit Caddesi No.5, Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 252 54 43

I live in Etiler:If you live around Etiler and need somewhere close by, head toAll Sports Caféfor a classic Turkish breakfast after noon.Bıyıklı Mehmet Paşa Sokak No.1/2, Etiler; P: (0212) 257 42 99

I need to go somewhere where brunch really means breakfast and lunch:Moda Terashas a very comprehensive brunch menu that starts with eggs, jams, ham, fruits, cheese, and a wide variety of breads, then continues with olive oil dishes,mezes, salads, Beef Stroganoff, chicken on skewers, meatballs, rice, and a wide variety of desserts.Mektep Sokak No. 1, Moda; P: (0216) 338 70 40

360 Istanbul East: Dinner, dancing, and great views come together at 360 Istanbul East. After some champagne and tasty little bites, the set dinner menu will include salmon, lobster, chestnut sorbet, turbot with cauliflower puree and mastic sauce or veal ribs with eggplant risotto and red wine sauce, and Turkish dessert platter. The night will get going with the live performance of Desaparecidos. (You've definitely heard of them; this songwas quite popular a few years back.) Later in the night, a DJ will get behind the deck to continue the party with popular house music. The pricing hasn’t been finalized but expect somethingnorth of 300TL.Caferağa Mahallesi Albay Faik Sözdener Caddesi No.3,1 Double Tree by Hilton, Kadıköy; P: (0212) 251 10 42

Hush: You’ve got two options at Hush - either go for the dinner and party combo, or have a family dinner at home and grab your friends for the post-dinner party. Dinner menu includes starters, pizza, mains, and desserts, and costs 150 TL per person. Dinner is served between 07:00pm-11:00pm. The entrance for the post-dinner party is 30 TL per person including one local drink. DJ Bora Dündar and Sercan Yılmaz will be playing electronic, house, and disco from 10:00pm until 03:00am. Make sure you make reservations for dinner.Caferağa Mahallesi Miralay Nazım Sokak 20, Moda; P: (0532) 285 49 04

Saloon: The set menu at Saloon includes salmon tartar with celery puree, ravioli melanzane, turkey with chestnuts and seasoned rice, and dessert. Dinner is served at 08:30pm, and costs 150 TL per person including unlimited local drinks. NYE entertainment will kick off around 11:00pm with DJs, belly dancing shows, and fireworks. If you just want to join in for the celebrations after dinner, it will cost 90 TL per person including unlimited drinks. No worries, tripe soup will be served by the end of the night to ward off any possible hangovers. Keep in mind that you must make a reservation in advance, otherwise they won’t let you in. Bağdat Caddesi No. 448, Suadiye; P: (0216) 416 50 49

Çubuklu Hayal Kahvesi: The legendary Turkish pop band MFÖ is taking the stage at Çubuklu Hayal Kahvesi. Pre-concert set dinner menu features artichokes, chargrilled eggplant salad, stuffed vine leaves with pastırma (Turkish pastrami), turkey with chestnut rice, and warm chestnut cake. Dinner and concert entrance with unlimited local drinks is 450 TL for a table for two, 850 TL for a table for four, 1200 TL for a table for six, and 1600 TL for a table of eight. Dinner is served between 08:00pm and 10:00pm. Tables are moved aside around 10:00pm for the concert. If you just want to go to the concert (and keep in mind that no seating is available for the concert), the tickets are 98 TL per person, and are available through Biletix.

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Istanbul New Year’s Guide: Hotels in Sultanahmet and near the Atatürk Airport; by Talya Arditi

Lucca:Start the New Year at Bebek’s hot-spot Lucca with a special tapas menu that features Jerusalem artichoke soup, a cheese plate, sea bass, mushroom ravioli, foie gras, and duck ragu. The meal will cost 180 TL, including 2 glasses of wine and a glass of champagne. There won’t be a crazy party after dinner, but there’ll be music playing until 02:00am. Cevdetpaşa Caddesi No. 51/B, Bebek; P: (0212) 257 12 55

Sunset:Enjoy a night of delicious food and awe-inspiring views of Istanbul at Sunset Grill & Bar. The starters of the set menu will include octopus carpaccio with white radish and celery stalk, scallop wrapped with shredded pastry and served with truffle yuzu sauce, sorbet, and arugula salad with avocado and pomegranate. For the main, you’ll have four options to choose from: oven-baked duck, caramelized risotto with apples, Hoisin sauce, and mustard; or beef tenderloin with basil, mashed potatoes, and red wine reduction sauce; or Chilean sea bass with truffle slices and truffle oil; or stuffed turkey with chestnut and brussels sprouts. Dessert will be a regal chocolate soufflé. Post-dinner entertainment will be held by dance music DJ Yener Katırcıoğlu after 11:00pm. All this will cost 400 TL plus tax including all local and standard international drinks. Adnan Saygun Caddesi Yol Sokak No. 2 Ulus Parkı, Ulus; P: (0212) 287 03 57

X Restaurant:If you want to combine great food with great views of the Golden Horn, consider spending New Year’s Eve at X Restaurant. Their six-course set menu includes caviar, yogurt, and shallots; king crab salad with green apple, baked tomato, and lettuce; spaghetti with octopus, cherry tomatoes, and parsley; and passion fruit and mango sorbet. You’ll have two choices for the main: lobster tail with almonds or grilled beef tenderloin, both served with porcini french fries and garlic-flavored parsley sauce. For dessert, enjoy the coffee-flavored dome and hazelnut crisps. The price of the menu excluding drinks is 180TL plus tax. There’ll be a DJ playing a mix of house, pop, and chillout. For reservations, call (0212) 244 71 01. IKVS Deniz Palas Sadi Konuralp Caddesi No: 5, Şişhane. P: (0212) 334 08 45

Mikla:Mikla offers one of the best views of Istanbul - you’ve got to see it to believe it! And if you haven’t been there before, New Year’s Eve is a great excuse. Mikla’s eight course food-and-wine pairing menu features bonito with sour apple and rye; shrimp with spinach and mullet roe; grouper with potatoes, lemon, and dill; lamb with rice, dried fruits, and yoghurt; cheese plate; pumpkin, pistachio, sesame, molasses; and petit fours. The accompanying drinks menu features Moët & Chandon, Brut Impérial, France (Champagne); Adam, Riesling Reserve (2008), Alsace, France; Michel Laroche, Chablis (2009), Burgogne, France; Angelo Gaja, Promis (2008), Toscana, Italy; Passito, Ben Rye (2007), Pantelleria, Sicilia, Italy.Dinner is served between 06:30pm and 11:30pm, and costs 250 Euros per person. Feel free to stick around after dinner for a DJ performance that will last until 02:00am. The Marmara Pera, Meşrutiyet Caddesi 167/185, Beyoğlu. P: (0212) 293 56 56

Delicatessen:If New Year’s Eve is not a big deal for you but you’d still like to celebrate in one way or another, dinner at Delicatessen will suit your mood. There is not a special celebration, just Delicatessen’s great food and atmosphere. The venue will close down by 02:30am, and there sure won’t be a crazy party. Reservations can be made for up to twelve people. Mim Kemal Öke Caddesi No.19/1, Nişantaşı; P: (0212) 225 06 04

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This year, several Istanbul neighborhoods (Kumkapı, Samatya, and Beyoğlu) and meyhanes are hosting the festival between 3^rd and 10^th of December with discounted set menus of 55TL. It won’t be just about rakı though—expect belly dancing shows, live fasıl music, wish trees, and even fortune tellers!

The Istanbul leg of World Rakı Week begins on the 3^rd of December in Kumkapı and finishes on the 10^th in Samatya. Of the participating meyhanes, we suggest you makereservations at:

Kör Agop on 5^th of December – Ördekçi Bakkal Sokak No. 7, Kumkapı; P: (0212) 517 23 34

Boncuk on 8^th of December – Asmalımescit Sokak No. 29, Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 245 31 69

Kuleli Meyhane on 10th of December – Büyük Kuleli Sokak No.38, Samatya; P: (0212) 587 94 28

Günbilir Balık Restaurant on 10th of December – Hacı Hüseyin Ağa Mahallesi Eski Kulluk Sokak No.18, Samatya; P: (0212) 529 26 45

Ali Haydar’ın Yeri on 10th of December – Hacı Hüseyin Ağa Mahallesi Samatya Meydanı Gümüş Yüzük Sokak No.6, Samatya; P: (0212) 584 21 62

If you don’t care for the discounted prices or the accompanying events, but want to take the opportunity to enjoy a long night of rakı and meze with your friends, take a look here for Istanbul’s classic meyhanes.

Backyard:Located in the Bebeköy neighborhood of Etiler, Backyard is housed on the same grounds as the MAC sports club, which gives the restaurant a somewhat country-club atmosphere. As the name implies, Backyard does indeed have a large backyard with plenty of cushions and seats for lounging in the sun during the summer months. The restaurant’s main building has vaulted ceilings with skylights, giving the space a very light and airy feel. There are plenty of warm wood and broad floor boards painted white, with both modern and retro furniture. This is the type of place that you would sooner expect to find in trendy Asmalımescit, although the crowd is very Bebek. Backyard is definitely cool, but not too cool, and still manages to be warm and inviting. The menu focuses on natural and organic produce and many of the ingredients are sourced from co-owner Zeynep Moroğlu’s family farm in Çatalca. The menu ranges from Turkish classics to more international fare. The mains include lamb chops, steak, grilled salmon, several pastas, and other fairly standard dishes, as well as the more innovative “mini tastes”. One of the menu highlights is the excellent wheat risotto with porcini mushrooms. Another noteworthy dish was the oven-bakedmücver. While the mains are certainly very satisfying, be sure to leave room for dessert. Bebeköy Sokak No. 1, Etiler; P: (0212) 287 15 00

Lokanta Maya:Open since May 2010 in Karaköy right next to Karaköy Lokantası, Lokanta Maya is set on one ideal: offering flavorful dishes made from local, fresh, and seasonal ingredients. Lokanta Maya’s dynamic menu reflects this ideal, changing between lunch and dinner, from one day to the next, from one season to the other. Although the majority of dishes on the menu are inspired from Aegean and Mediterranean cuisines, the menu is varied enough to include specialties from other regions of Turkey, such ashamsi(anchovy) from the Black Sea Region. The décor is quite minimal with rustic tables giving the venue quite a homey feel. The little details make all the difference in this simple but tasteful interior, like the fresh flowers on each table and the cool hanging lamps. The menu does change seasonally, but we suggest you try their Mücver, salatalıklı yoğurt sos (fried vegetable patties with yogurt-mint-cucumber sauce) and çıtır hamsi(fried anchovy) if it’s on the menu when you go there. Kemankeş Caddesi 35-A, Karaköy; P: (0212) 252 68 84

Tag Cafe & Bistro: Located on a side street off of İstiklal Caddesi right next to Galeri Arter, Tag Cafe & Bistro is a small and cozy restaurant. The menu, which changes weekly, is prepared by Chef Ekin Doğrusöz, a foodie who learned the craft of cooking in France, having fallen in love with food in his mother’s kitchen. Prepared with the freshest and seasonal ingredients, Tag’s menu offers international fare. You might find yourself eating chili con carne (an exquisite meat dish served with rice) one day, and tagliatelle the next. İstiklal Caddesi Postacılar Sokak No.1/A, Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 243 68 42

Journey: Located on one of Cihangir’s liveliest streets is Journey, a cozy restaurant that reflects the character of the neighborhood that it’s located in: international, modern, and laid-back. With comfy sofas, coffee tables, bookshelves filled with interesting books and magazines, Journey is truly a home away from home. The venue is often filled with familiar faces from Turkish TV shows and the big screen, as well as expats and locals who have apparently made Journey their second home. There is something for everyone on the menu, from classic Turkish home-cooked meals with a twist, like ev usülü yaprak sarma(home-made stuffed vine leaves), to homemade pastas and pizzas, salads, and meat dishes. The çimlendirilmiş mercimekli ılık patates salatası (warm potato salad with sprouted lentils) comes highly recomended, so do the fıstıklı sebze ve bulgur pilavı (vegetables and bulgur rice with pine nuts) and keçi peyniri, fesleğen pesto, domates, roka(goat cheese, basil pesto, tomato, and rocket) pizza. Although Journey is strictly a restaurant, meaning it doesn’t turn into a bar after hours like many of Istanbul’s restaurants, their cocktails are delicious. Journey could very well be your new stop before you head down to Kiki or another Cihangir bar.Akarsu Caddesi No.21/A, Cihangir; P: (0212) 244 89 89

International art expo Contemporary Istanbul will be held between November 24^th and November 27^th at the Istanbul Congress Center and Istanbul Convention and Exhibition Center in Harbiye. Here is a list of the best restaurants around Harbiye for all your pre and post food stops during Contemporary Istanbul.

Borsa:Open since 1927, Borsa is an established restaurant dedicated to traditionalTurkish cuisine. Its branch within the Lütfi Kırdar Convention Center makes it a convenient stop for concert-goers. Lütfi Kırdar Convention Center, Gümüş Caddesi No.4, Harbiye; P: (0212) 232 42 01

Dragon:Located in the Hilton İstanbul Hotel, Dragon is regarded by many as the best Chinese restaurant in town. Dragon specializes in Cantonese and Szechuan dishes prepared by chefs from Hong Kong. Here you can sample classic Chinese cuisine at its best, including Hot and Sour Soup, Crispy Duck, Kung-Pao Chicken, Szechuan Style Beef, Five Spiced Squid, and Deep Fried Ice Cream. Cumhuriyet Caddesi, Hilton İstanbul Hotel, Harbiye; P: (0212) 231 62 00

Al bushra:Hilton İstanbul Hotel’s Al Bushra is where you’ll find all sorts of Lebanese delicacies plus a magnificent Bosphorus view. Lebanese food is a particularly rich branch of Middle Eastern cuisine, and anyone who’s triedkibbehknows there’s no going back to ordinary meatballs once you’ve tasted this bulgur-meat combination. Cumhuriyet Caddesi, Hilton Istanbul Hotel, Harbiye; P:(0212) 343 8081

Park şamdan:Open since 1982, Park Şamdan is an established fine-dining restaurant that serves Turkish and international dishes. Their paça çorbası (leg of lamb soup), risottolu dana kaburga (beef rib with risotto), keşkül (almond-based milk pudding), and kaymaklı ekmek kadayıfı(crumpets with syrup and clotted cream) come highly recommended. You can also rely on your experienced waiter to lead you through the impressive menu. Mim Kemal Öke Caddesi No. 18/1, Nişantaşı; P: (0212) 225 07 10

Hünkar:Hünkar is an upscale version of a classic tradesman restaurant (esnaf lokantası), specializing in home-style Turkish and Ottoman cuisine. You’ll find a range of soups, mezes, olive oil dishes, meat dishes, and seasonal fish, grilled to order. Hünkar is particularly famous for itsBeğendili kebap(eggplant puree with lamb chunks). Their yogurt is in a class of its own and is definitely a must-try.For dessert, there are a number of scrumptious options, includingkomposto(fruit compote), rice pudding,şekerpare (mini cakes in syrup), andaşure(wheat pudding with nuts and dried fruits). Mim Kemal Öke Caddesi No. 21, Nişantaşı; P: (0212) 225 46 65

Delicatessen: A hip joint at the heart ofNişantaşı, Delicatessen offers dozens of choices from steak burger to fresh fish, and most dishes come with scrumptious sides. Mim Kemal Öke Caddesi No.19/1, Nişantaşı; P: (0212) 225 06 04

Den Cafe:Open since 2008, Den Cafe is similar to The House Cafe—hip and cool, featuring wooden communal tables. It’s not a place to be seen but a place where regulars as well as new customers can relax over a cup of coffee, or enjoy breakfast, lunch, or dinner with friends. Den Cafe’s menu is international, featuring a lunch menu that changes daily. Mim Kemal Öke Caddesi No. 1/D, Nişantaşı; P: (0212) 224 24 70

Brasserie Nişantaşı:Located on the trendiest crossroad in Nişantaşı, Brasserie Nişantaşı is the meeting point for Istanbul’s glitterati and one of the best places for people-watching. The menu is very French, with salmon, beef carpaccio, and great summer desserts, as well as a variety of European dishes. Abdi İpekçi Caddesi No. 23/1, Nişantaşı; P: (0212) 343 04 43

Beyti: Open since 1945, Beyti is one of the oldest and most popular meat restaurants in Istanbul. The venue is full of memorabilia from notable customers, and the decoration is largely in the old Ottoman style. The restaurant owes its reputation for good meat to the use of prime choice cuts, the application of special marinating techniques, and instant serving from the charcoal-grill. Keep in mind that Beyti will be closed on Monday, November 7th so head there on Tuesday or Wednesday.Orman Sokak No. 8, Florya; P: (0212) 663 29 92.

Suna’nın Yeri: Located in Kandilli by the waterfront, Suna’nın Yeri is very popular for its great food, wonderful views, moderate prices, and casual atmosphere. Even though what’s on the selective meze menu is very good, we suggest you go for the fresh fish, the calamari, and the salads. İskele Caddesi No. 4-17, Kandilli; P: (0216) 332 32 41

Çiya: Go on a culinary journey at Çiya, located in Kadıköy on the Asian side. The menu changes daily, and on a typical day you will find delicacies from Syria, Georgia, southern Iran, and all parts of Turkey featured on the menu. Note that Çiya will be closed on Sunday, November 6th, so go there during the week.Güneşli Bahçesi Sokak No. 43-44, Kadıköy; P: (0216) 330 31 90

Cafe du Levant: One of the best French restaurants in Istanbul is undoubtedly Cafe du Levant in Hasköy, attached to the Rahmi M. Koç Museum. It is a charming Parisian brasserie perfect for those craving authentic French cuisine or the romantic atmosphere of Paris. Keep in mind that Cafe du Levant will be closed on Sunday, November 6th and Monday, November 7th, so head there on Tuesday or Wednesday. Make sure you visit the Rahmi M. Koç Museum while you're there.Rahmi M. Koç Museum Hasköy Caddesi No. 27, Sütlüce; P: (0212) 369 94 50

Perhaps the best promotional tool is the one aimed at reigniting Samatya’s local eateries. Due to its location right by the sea, Samatya has always been known as a place to get fresh seafood but it has never attracted large numbers of visitors the way that the nearby neighborhood of Kumkapı has. The Samatya Development Project plans to change this by encouraging restaurants to stay true to their roots and keep the traditional tastes. The project has also helped with restaurant renovations and staff training to elevate service to an international standard. All of this has culminated in some fantastic dining opportunities.

Because of Samatya’s multi-ethnic history, it has much more to offer than your typical fishing village. One of Istanbul’s best restaurants, Develi is located here. Opened in 1966, this is the first Istanbul branch of the Gaziantep restaurant chain that was established in 1912. They serve delicious southeastern Turkish dishes made with the best regional ingredients. Many branches of the restaurant have opened in Istanbul, but the city’s first Develi may still be the best place to eat. Delicious food, five-star service, and a view of the sea can’t be beat.

Located in an old 3-story Armenian building, Günbilir Restaurant was formerly called the Varujan Restaurant. After the master cook Varujan died, the restaurant was bought by three brothers who renamed it but decided to keep the same excellent food and service as the former owner. Although seafood is their specialty, Greek and Armenian influences can be seen on Günbilir’s menu.

Samatya was quite famous for its taverns before the 1950s and a few of them have managed to survive to present day. Kuleli Meyhane is one of those classic taverns. The award-winning chef offers 40 different mezes and some very interesting variations of classic seafood dishes, like hamsi (anchovy) wrapped in chard and stuffed octopus. They also prepare their own sour cherry liqueur, which is highly recommended.

One of the reasons that the public began to show interest in Samatya again is the Turkish TV show İkinci Bahar. The showwas aired a couple of years ago and was centered on a couple who worked in a restaurant in Samatya.The location was chosen because of its nostalgic look and is called Ali Haydar'ın Yeri. The restaurantis still a popular attraction for locals, and is a must-visit for those who'd like to have some great meat or enjoy some fasıl (classic Tavern music)in the evening with a glass of rakı.

Whether you are interested in history, culture, or good food, it is clearly time to take a new look at the ancient neighborhood of Samatya.

Develi; Gümüşyüzük Sokak No. 7, Samatya; P: (0212)632 79 82

Günbilir Restaurant; Hacı Hüseyin Ağa Mahallesi, Eski Kulluk Sokak No. 18, Samatya; P: (0212) 529 26 45

Kuleli Meyhane; Büyük Kuleli Sokak No. 38, Samatya; P: (0212) 587 94 28

Ali Haydar'ın Yeri; Hacı Hüseyin Ağa Mahallesi, Samatya Meydanı, Gümüş Yüzük Sokak No.6, Samatya; P: (0212) 584 21 62

Summer may have ended in the blink of an eye but that doesn’t mean that we have to give up on ice-cream. Get on board with fall, and instead of ice-cream in a cone go for these ice-cream desserts for a smaller chance of a brain freeze.

Kup Griye @ Baylan: Baylan is one of the oldest and most established patisseries in Istanbul, and its name is almost synonymous with their special dessert Kup Griye. Made with vanilla and caramel ice-cream, whipped cream, caramel sauce, and honey & almond crocan, this dessert has even inspired a fan page of its own!

Wafer Halva and Rose Parfait Sandwich @ müzedechanga: A contemporary take on a classic ice-cream dessert, this wafer halva is crunchy, cool, and sweet.The strawberry & raspberry sauce that it’s served with is simply amazing.

Dondurmalı İrmik Helvası @ Venge:The ice-cream filled semolina halvah at Venge is unrivalled. The only challenge is leaving enough space for dessert when eating all the delicious mezes and kebabs at Venge.

Dondurmalı Baklava @ Güllüoğlu: You love baklava and you love ice-cream. And the natural outcome of this is baklava topped with ice-cream. Even though it’s not on the menu, baklava with ice-cream is a typical order by Güllüoğlu-goers who love something crunchy with something cool.

Dondurmalı Lokma Tatlısı @ Giritli:Lokma (Turkish-style donuts dipped in syrup) is a classic dessert that takes a contemporary turn when topped with vanilla ice-cream. At Giritli, lokma is cooked the traditional way but dipped in only a little bit of syrup. Keep in mind that this dessert is only available as long as it’s warm enough to make the lokma outdoors. So head to Giritli before the weather gets too cold.

Rokoko @ Divan:Rokoko is the ultimate ice-cream cake topped with warm chocolate sauce. Yum!

Chicken: You’ll find many tempting options at WienerWald but the healthiest choice is their rotisserie chicken. For your carb intake, order a serving of rice. Alternatively, get grilled chicken with a side of rice (with or without butter) at Mac Café in Kanyon.

Meat: Get a sirloin steak at Karkas Steak House but skip the fries. Order a choice of salad and nibble on their tasty breads for your carb needs. Dükkan Steakhouse is also a great option for steak—pick your favorite from New York, Ribeye, and T-bone steak and get baked potatoes with it.

Fish: A very tasty and healthy option is Numnum’s Sağlık Somonu (grilled salmon served with a warm salad of lentils, wheat, and black-eyed peas). At BalıkEv in İstinyePark, order your choice of grilled fish with a side of salad. Most fish dishes are served with mashed potatoes from which you can get your carbs. Otherwise, the bread basket will do. BalıkEv is right by the indoor bazaar so you might want to stock up on some fresh fruits for later.

Eggs: Go for menemen (scrambled eggs with tomato and peppers) at Saray Muhallebicisi. If you like running by the Bosphorus, start from Bebek and have your post-workout meal at Yeniköy Kahvesiwhere you can enjoy a juicy menemen and some fresh bread in a relaxing atmosphere.

Istanbul Modern Cafe:This is a great option—and not just because it’s the closest restaurant! Istanbul Modern Cafe is known for its great panoramic views of the Old City and the Bosphorus. Its inventive menu features hot and cold appetizers, seafood, pasta, and meat dishes. Perfect for lunch and dinner, or a quick coffee break.

Fasuli:Fasuli is an esnaf (tradesman’s) restaurant specializing in dishes from the Eastern Black Sea region. Their signature dish is fasulye & pilav (beans and rice). Bu they also have soups, zetinyağlı (olive-oil based) dishes, and grilled meats.

Karaköy Lokantası:Located on a small street behind the Karaköy shipping docks, Karaköy Lokantası offers delicious Turkish cuisine at reasonable prices. The menu changes daily, but lunchtime favorites often include thehünkar beğendi, a dish of slow-cooked beef served on a bed of smoky eggplant puree, andızgara süt kuzu pirzola(grilled baby lamp chops). For dinner,there is a wide variety of mezes on offer, as well as grilled fish and meat dishes.Keep in mind that in the evening the atmosphere is more like ameyhane(Turkish tavern).

Lokanta Maya:If you want local, regional, and seasonal food, Lokanta Mayais the place to go. For a detailed review, click here.

Akın Balık:A humble fish restaurantset right by the base of the Galata Bridge in Karaköy, Akın Balık is a great spot for a long dinner with mezes, fish, and rakı.

Tarihi Karaköy Balıkçısı: If you want fresh fish in an upscale environment with a fantastic view, Tarihi Karaköy Balıkçısı is the place to go. Kağıtta levrek (seabass cooked in paper) and fish soup are must try's.

For American-style ice-cream, get a cup of Ben & Jerry’s or Häagen-Dazs. Our favorites are Chocolate Fudge Brownie and Cookie Dough from Ben & Jerry’s and Rocky Road and Cookies & Cream from Häagen-Dazs.

Some like it creamy, some like it fruity, some like it with chocolate on top, and some just don’t discriminate. Istanbul is filled with a variety of ice-cream shops, from the recently opened Italians to the decades old classic Turkish ones. Here are the best scoops you’ll get around town:

Migone: If your diet is strictly organic or you just love a good ice-cream, try Migone’s inventive flavors, such as blueberry, after eight, rose, and cinnamon. If you’re not satisfied with just a cone, have the ice-cream sandwich made with kağıt helva (Turkish-style, round wafers) and your choice of ice-cream.Küçük Bebek Caddesi No.11, Bebek; P: (0212) 263 06 86

Dondurmacı Ali Usta: Be prepared to wait a long line for the goodies at Ali Usta. Almond, vanilla, and tutti frutti flavors are especially raved about.Moda Caddesi No.264/A, Kadiköy; P: (0216) 414 18 80

Dondurmacı Yaşar Usta: Yaşar Usta has been around since the 1970s with his no-preservatives real-fruit ice-cream. We suggest you try the melon and strawberry flavors.Ali Nihat Tarlan Caddesi No.34/2, Bostancı; P: (0216) 575 28 20

Cremeria Milano: For a true Italian ice-cream, try Cremeria Milano’s traditionally-made, natural ice-cream. Their bitter chocolate is arguably the best you’ll ever have. Their creative flavors, such as baileys and vanilla-nutella-wafer, are irresistible too.Cevdetpaşa Caddesi No.34/D, Bebek; P: 0212 265 80 50

Mini Dondurma: A classic of Bebek since it opened its tiny window in 1968, the four-square-meter shop’s mastic, sour cherry, and caramel flavors are fantastic. If you have a sudden midnight craving for ice-cream, keep in mind that Mini Dondurma stays open until 3am.Cevdetpaşa Caddesi No.38/A, Bebek; P: (0212) 257 10 70

Giolitti: Italy’s 100-year-old ice-cream brand Giolitti is known for its fruity flavors. If you’re looking for something a little more hard-core, go for the banana split.Asmalı Mescit Mahallesi Tünel Meydanı No.186, Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 251 85 22

Girandola: If you want to try interesting flavors like pumpkin, grape, or even whisky-chocolate, head to Girandola.Bebek Arnavutköy Caddesi No. 109, Arnavutköy; P: (0212) 265 26 29

L’era Fresca: This two-month-old ice-cream shop sells 100\\% natural ice-cream without any preservatives. We suggest their tahina-and-walnut and pistachio flavors.Cevdet Paşa Caddesi No. 43/B, Bebek; P: (0212) 257 03 03

Mua Gelatieri d'Italia: Exercise caution before you try their chili chocolate ice-cream—there’s a reason why it’s called chili! Their not-too-sour lemon is quite creamy and it’s definitely a must-try. Don’t miss out on the chocolate and hazelnut, too.Köybaşı Caddesi No.126/B, Yeşilköy; P: (0212) 299 84 84

Maraş Dondurması: The story goes that ice-cream was originally discovered in Turkey’s southeastern region of Kahramanmaraş. Usually referred to as Maraş Dondurması, this type is quite thick as it’s usually made with goat’s milk and salep (grinded root of orchid). When you walk around Istanbul, you’ll come across men dressed in traditional clothing who swing ice-cream around—sounds weird but you’ll know what I mean when you see it. Just walk up to him, order a cone, and see what happens!

Tarihi Veli Dondurmacısı: If you’re after a nostalgic experience, head to Tarihi Veli Dondurmacısı, which has been around for more than half a century. Yeniköy Caddesi No.18, Tarabya; P: (0212) 299 21 43

The Best from Further Afield

Although many new ice-cream shops opened up in Büyükada in recent years, the favorite among the residents is the Roma Dondurmacısı. Caramel, sour cherry, lemon, pistachio… they are all so tasty! Just walk towards the big clock from the vapur (ferry) stop, and you’ll see the ice-cream shop on your left. While you’re in Büyükada, look out for the white-and-red ice-cream carts around the island as well—they sell daily-made, natural, rose-shaped ice-cream. Definitely try the peach and melon.

If you’re heading towards Çınarcık/Yalova, stop by Roma Dondurma (which has no relation to the one in Büyükada) for a cone of mastic flavored ice-cream. Just give them a call when you’re in the area, and they’ll be happy to help you with directions. (Phone: 0226 245 22 84)

If your summer holidays are spent in Çeşme or Bodrum, we know exactly where you need to go to cool down. With over 30 different flavors, you’ll surely find something to satisfy your cravings at Veli Usta Dondurmacısı. Veli Usta began selling ice-cream from a little cart in 1983 in Çeşme. Today, the company grew to open several branches around Çeşme and İzmir. (Veli Usta Dondurmacısı, phone: 0232 723 12 73)

İmren has been a favorite among locals since it opened up shop in 1941. Get a cone of their mastic-flavored ice-cream in one of their branches in central Alaçatı and don’t forget to buy a pack of their mastic-flavored cookies to take home as well. (Address: Tokoğlu mah. Kemalpaşa cad. no:65, Alaçatı. Phone: 0232 716 83 56)

Bitez Dondurma and Türkbükü Doğal Dondurma are two local favorite ice-cream shops in Bodrum. Both shops make their ice-cream with 100\\% natural ingredients. Try apricot and honey-and-almond at Bitez, and go for the mastic, brandy, and black mulberry flavors at Türkbükü Doğal Dondurma. (Bitez Dondurma has several branches around Bodrum. Give them a call at 0252 363 93 45 to get the address of your nearest branch. Türkbükü Doğal Dondurma is located at Menemene Mah. İnönü Cad. No: 49, Türkbükü, Bodrum. You can call them at 0252 377 63 13.)

This article was updated on May 17, 2012.

Walking down any one of Istanbul’s busy boardwalks or back roads is sure to evoke a sense ofbeing in not only one of the most vibrant cultural capitals of the world but also in one of the most diverse, plentiful, and drool-worthy food capitals. And make no mistake—Istanbul’s street-side vendors, cafes, and restaurants are lacquered with excessive meat, bread, and sugar. Whether it is white pita stuffed with döner (thinly-sliced lamb) and dripping with animal fat or thick, chewable ice-cream served festively by a traditionally-garbed street vendor, there is indeed a road to dietary ruin in Istanbul.

As a visitor, biting into all that Turkish cuisine has to offer is an excursion in and of itself. Many tourists leave Istanbul having not been able to clean off the last of their meze (Turkish-style appetizers) plates or forked their way through the seemingly endless variations of lamb. What visitors often do leave with, however, is a tighter waist-belt.

Long-time residents of the city also find themselves stuck in the ease of thoughtless, quick eating. Döner today becomes döner tomorrow, the next day, and then every day after that. A bite of baklava (sweet pastry with nuts) suddenly becomes a daily midnight ritual. Today, it’s almost impossible to believe Turkey’s regional reputation for its abundantly fresh and locally-sourced fruits and vegetables or the country’s health-conscious dishes ever existed in the first place. The truth is—they live on!

Look no further than in and around Taksim to get a true taste of Turkey, but without the guilt. Practically on the square itself, Parsifal and Zencefil are among the best of Istanbul’s vegetarian scene. Just doors away from one another, the two draw in similar crowds and feature similar menu items—complementary bread baskets, large salads, vegetable-based soups, no-skimp entrees, and vegetarian mainstays, such as veggie burgers. After its delicious food, Zencefil’s atmosphere is its strongest point, with an indoor garden that provides a quiet reprieve and delicate ambiance that does justice to the food it serves. Parsifal’s atmosphere is unimpressive, but its food is rich, dense, and sure to satisfy even a skeptical meat lover.

Moments away from Parsifal and Zencefil, in a backstreet just off the other side of Istiklal, lies Govinda—one of the few Indian-inspired restaurants in the city. Many of the menu items are fried, such as the pakora (fried battered vegetables) and samosas (fried vegetable-stuffed pastries), but the restaurant’s use of unique spices and flavors unbeknownst to the average person make every bite worthwhile. Un-fried vegetables are plentiful in Govinda’s salads and soups. The must-have beverage is the lassi—a fragrant yogurt and fruit concoction.

Only a short walk away from Taksim and into Cihangir, Cuppa is a health foodie’s euphoria. The menu is packed with raw fresh fruit and vegetable juices and smoothies. The menu features breakfast, lunch, and dinner fare, but it’s the beverages that make the venue worth the visit.

A detour from Taksim brings one to Beşiktaş, a student-ridden area that implies cheaper grub and a more laid-back, local-inspired setting. The Loving Hut is the health gem of this area. Transparency is key here, with everything made at the counter fresh and with love by the smiling owner and head chef. The menu covers all bases, but it’s the falafel that takes the crown.

MaxGreen.Cois Akmerkez shopping mall’s crowned jewel. The café is a mere self-service stand, offering seating in the mall’s food court. The menu, however, is quality, with raw fruit and vegetable juices and smoothies, salads, and entrees consisting of hard-to-find, health-facilitating ingredients and supplements. The raw desserts are devoid of sugar, flour, and butter as well as the after-the-fact regret. Stock up on kombucha, a fermented drink that is conducive to digestion and detoxing, and other supplements while you’re there.

Not too far from MaxGreen Co. is Akatlar, where you’ll find The LifeCo detox center and the high-end sports center Club Sporium. Located on the ground floor of Club Sporium, Saf restaurant is a raw food establishment that does not heat food above 48°C. The entire menu is a unique experience, from the restaurant’s take on traditional dürüm (roasted lamb wrapped in tortilla-like thin bread) to its venture into raw sushi. While a bit on the pricey side, the experience is well worth the extra buck.

Looking between the lines and it becomes clear, quite quickly, that Istanbul is not only a meat-eater’s paradise but also a health-lover’s. Find organic produce at the Feriköy Halk Pazarı if cooking at home or try one of the suggested restaurants. You don’t need to compromise your health for a fulfilling Istanbul experience.

For an authentic and appetizing iftar dinner, here are a few options:

Asitane: Asitane’s traditional Ottoman cuisine provides a special iftar menu in the ambiance of Old Istanbul for a fixed price of 70 TL per person. With a selection of classic dishes including vişneli yalancı sarma (stuffed grape leaves with sour cherry) and domatesde köz patlıcan (roasted tomatoes in marinated eggplant) as well as a selection of Ottoman şerbet (fruit sherbet), you can partake in this ceremonial meal in accordance with tradition. Finish off your meal with a portion of güllaç (traditional milky pastry dessert made with pomegranate) or vişneli ekmek tatlısı (bread pudding with sour cherry).

Konyalı at Kanyon Shopping Mall: The traditions of Konyalı go back to the year 1897, and who better to trust with your special meal than one of Istanbul’s veteran eateries? For a fixed price of 90 TL per person, start off with a platter of traditional iftar samplers consisting of olives, cheese, and figs, and gradually move on to the heavier entrees. We recommend you try a glass of their complimentary sherbet selections—kiwi, sour cherry, peach, and apple are just a few of the available options. The main dishes range from pirzola (lamb chops) to Hünkâr Beyendi (literally Sultan’s pleasure, made of stuffed eggplant with lamb stew). We suggest you finish off your meal with Konyalı’s famous baklava (sweet pastry with nuts).

Hünkar in Nişantaşı: Hünkar Restaurant has found its location in Nişantaşı to be more than attractive to those wishing to dine in stylish nostalgia. Come time for iftar season, Hünkar presents an a la carte selection along with a fixed menu that includes kadınbudu köfte (fried meatballs with rice dipped in batter), different rice selections, su böreği (pastry with cheese and parsley filling) as well as Hünkâr Beyendi (stuffed eggplant with lamb stew). Finish off with the classic irmik helvası (semolina halvah) for a total of 75 TL per diner.

Borsa in Kandilli: Bringing the excitement of iftar to the Asian side, Borsa Kandilli presents a special Ramadan menu that starts off with a platter of samplers like figs, pide (Ramadan challah bread), and Kayseri pastırması (Turkish-style pastrami from the city of Kayseri in central Turkey) followed by classic meat dishes like döner kebap (thinly-sliced lamb) and kuzu tandır (lamb tandoori). Don’t skip their tasty dessert selections that range from irmik tatlısı (semolina halvah) to güllaç (traditional milky pastry dessert made with pomegranate). With a fixed menu price of 120 TL per person, Borsa’s iftar is a luxurious way to celebrate a traditional meal with friends and family.

Olive Restaurant: Old Istanbul provides a special feel to any iftar meal, and Olive Restaurant in Topkapı makes the best of this. They offer three iftar menus (all of which are 65 TL per person) with rich starters of iftar essentials that include figs, pastırma (Turkish pastrami), honey, and a variety of nuts. Each menu is followed by a soup, salad, kebab dishes, and dessert. Tables overlooking the classical atmosphere of old Istanbul during Ramadan fill up quickly, and we strongly recommend you make reservations beforehand. We especially recommend the rose sherbet, which is complimentary with all iftar menus.

Nar Lokantası: Serving traditional Turkish cuisine in a cool and modern environment, Nar Restaurant's iftar begins with a breakfast platter that continues with three separate main courses—chicken, sautéed lamb, and steamed sea bass. To satisfy your cravings in between the starters and main courses, we suggest you try their lentil soup and mantı (Turkish mini-dumplings). With a fixed menu price of 55 TL per person, have a satisfying iftar dinner in Nar’s warm environment.

We strongly suggest you call and make reservations at each of these eateries as iftar is a very crowded time of year, and Istanbul’s hotspots are often booked in advance.

Related Content

Traditional Iftar Dinners at Hotel Restaurants

Why Go There?

This is the area where the Marmara Sea and the Black Sea merge, offering fantastic views that you can’t see anywhere else in the city. You don’t have to dress to impress as the area is quite humble and low-key and whatever you eat or buy won’t hurt your budget. You’ll get a chance to mix in with the locals while enjoying lots of calm and quiet, a bit of sea breeze, and high-quality fresh fish. All you need is a car, a few friends, and a few hours to chillax.

When to Go?

Spring and summer are the best times of the year to go as the area tends to be quite windy. You can choose to go early in the morning and have breakfast there, or go later in the day for lunch or dinner.

How to Get There?

We suggest you take the longer but more scenic coastal road starting from Bebek, passing through İstinye, Yeniköy, and Sarıyer. As you head towards Kilyos from Sarıyer, you’ll see signs that direct you towards Rumelifeneri, Rumeli Kavağı, and Garipçe.

Suggested Route: Garipçe – Rumelifeneri – Rumeli Kavağı

If you head out early in the morning, stop by Meşhur Sarıyer Börekçisi in Sarıyer (check out the video here) for a take-away breakfast of börek (a kind of pastry)—we suggest the kıymalı (with meat) for the carnivorous and the şekerli (sprinkled with powdered sugar) for vegetarians. Alternatively, you can have a buffet breakfast when you reach Garipçe.

Populated largely by immigrants from the Black Sea region, Garipçe is a tiny and humble fisherman’s village made up of just a few restaurants. What you find at Garipçe may catch you by surprise as it’s quite extraordinary to reach a much less civilized, cute little village 30 minutes to an hour away (depending on traffic) from the cosmopolitan city of Istanbul. There’s not much to do around the village except for enjoying the wonderful views, the fresh air, and fresh fish. One option is Aydın Balık Restaurant located just by the water’s edge. In fact, you need to watch out for the harsh waves as you can get a bit wet from the spray. Aydın serves a variety of hot appetizers, such as fish soup and calamari, and low-priced, high-quality, fresh fish. Asmaaltı Restaurant is located in what used to be a 130-year-old bakery. Don’t turn up your nose because it doesn’t have a view of the water; it’s soothing garden, covered with leafy trees, is just as revitalizing as sitting by the waterside. In addition to a variety of fresh fish, Asmaaltı also boasts regional Black Sea specialties, such as mıhlama (a dish made with cornmeal, string cheese from the Black Sea region, and butter). Keep in mind that none of the restaurants in Garipçe or Rumelifeneri serve alcohol so if you want rakı or beer to accompany your meal, head instead to one of the restaurants in Rumeli Kavağı.

After your stop in Garipçe, drive to Rumelifeneri and check out the lighthouse. You’ll find threerestaurants there: Barınak, Mendirek, and Roke. Although Roke was torn down a while ago, an open-air area is still being used. If you want to wait until you get to Rumeli Kavağı for your meal, just top by Mendirek and have a serving of their famous fried mussels.

If you’re up for some adventure, make a pit stop at the remains of the Rumeli Kavağı castle. You can hike up the walls of the castle, take a good look at the Black Sea, then go inside the walls and try to imagine what went on there in the centuries past. Behind the castle, you can sit by the rocks, listen to the sound of the waves hitting the shore. Hey, you can even assume the lotus position and elevate yourself to a state of “Aum.”

By this time, you should be getting hungry again, as all that fresh air can work up an appetite. At Rumeli Kavağı, you have quite a few options to choose from. One option is Ayder Restaurant set right by the water. The view is fantastic—the sea with a background of mountains. But it’s not just the view or the down-to-earth atmosphere that makes Ayder a great lunch spot. The mezes are all top-notch and the fish is as fresh as it can get. When ordering, ask the waiter what’s in season.

Decorated with fisherman’s nets, hanging turbots, photos of celebrity clients and their thank-you notes, Balıkçı Kahraman is one of the most famous fish restaurants of the area. Even though it doesn’t have a view of the sea, the quality of the fish compensates for the lack of ambiance—especially the turbot is a must try! The other options are İskele Balık Restaurant and Gelişli Balık Restaurant, which both feature beautiful views of the Black Sea along with fresh fish, tasty mezes, and low-key surroundings.

The Final Note

Either follow our suggested route or make up your own combination but definitely spend some time in this area to relax, de-stress, and have some fun.

BREAK UP: Leb-i derya

Unfortunately, a good break up doesn’t exist. All break ups suck, don’t they? Well, they don’t have to. Where and how you break up could make all the difference. When you’re going to have that big “It’s not you, it’s me” speech, the location will play a serious role in determining how the night will go. If you are all alone at home, things could get pretty nasty and you definitely don’t want to be the one cleaning up broken glasses. First rule of the break up speech: take the soon-to-be-ex out somewhere public. The perfect place for a break up is a casual dinner with a view that could relax even the most strained nerves. At Leb-i derya (either at the Richmond Hotel or in Tünel), the fantastic view can steal the scene and the tourist crowd can serve as the ideal distraction. If you go to the one at Richmond Hotel, order a cosmopolitan. In Tünel, order the Tiramisu Martini. Always remember: it’s the last party for two, keep it classy.

MAKE UP: White Mill / Backyard

The day has finally come. The never-ending break-up period is coming to an end—as long as you can manage to woo your ex and convince him/her that everything will be perfect this time around. All you have to do is take a deep breath, invite him/her out to dinner, and hope for the best. But which restaurant will do the trick in your make-up date? All you need (besides love of course) is to find a calm and peaceful place that will make both of you feel at home. White Mill in Cihangir and Backyard in Etiler will definitely do the trick. Find a table on the garden at Backyard, order the endorphin-increasing Devil’s Food Cake, and sip some Vodka Satsuma. Go to White Mill in the afternoon, sit under the trees, relax with a glass of Gypsy (vodka with blackberry and mulberry juice), and give the speech (that you’ve obviously practiced over and over again) with great enthusiasm. And remember, flowers work on any girl!

MEET UP: Nu Teras

Cool, smart, and sexy. This is what Nu Teras is about. It’s like the entire in-crowd decided meet up in the city’s hottest nightclub. The doorman doesn’t get the “I’m on the list” trick. Don’t even try that. All you need to do to get in is to look fresh and sexy. When you’re in, forget all the rules of the game. (They don’t really work anyways.) Just hit the bar, order your favorite drink, and start checking out the crowd. The rest is up to the night, not you.

CHEER UP: Limonata / Pop-Up

Once you enter Limonata in City’s shopping mall, you will forget about your to-do-list. At Limonata, your inner child will come alive. It’s seriously a dream come true, in Charlie and the Chocolate Factory style. Enjoy the dessert buffet, and try their lemonade (with a bit of alcohol, of course). If Çapa-style entertainment is not your thing, try somewhere more artsy to cheer yourself up. Run by the admired theater crew DOT, Pop Up is very much an oasis of relaxation with the microphone allowing for impromptu theater practices and the ever-tempting karaoke parties. With Frank-Miller-like cartoons on the walls and edgy magazines and books on tables, Pop-Up is one of the best feel-good spots in town.

Although much smaller than its supposed Beyoğlu counterpart, this ex-dolmuş-stop is now a pedestrian-only street offering a bunch of eat-on-the-sidewalk spots for after-work meet-ups and weekend-hang-outs.

You be the judge when you check out Atiye Sokak, if you haven’t done so yet. Here is the lowdown on what the street has in store.

Elio: If long dinner-and-drinks is on schedule, Elio is a great choice, offering Mediterranean cuisine with a serious Italian focus. Owned by ex-prime-minister Mesut Yılmaz’s sons Hasan and Yavuz Yılmaz, Elio is located right next to Hardal, owned by the other ex-prime-minister Tansu Çiller’s son Mert Çiller. Mere coincidence or sly political race, we don’t know.

Hardal: Frequented by the young and cool crowd, Hardal offers a colorful and casual atmosphere that is ideal for a night of beer and fries. If you’re in for a solid meal, there are over 15 hamburger choices. Although great for lunch and dinner, the restaurant gets louder as the night goes on with the DJ checking in to the booth at 7pm, so consider stopping by for mid-week partying as well.

Quick China: The only answer to all your Asian cravings on Atiye Sokak. This laid-back restaurant’s menu combines the best of Asian cuisine, offering a mix of Chinese, Thai, and Japanese food. Unlike the name suggests, this is not a fast food joint. Whether your favorite dish is Peking Duck, Teriyaki Chicken, Pad Thai, or California Roll, keep in mind: the more, the merrier. Go with a group so you can sample a couple of different dishes from their extensive menu. For drinks, sake it is!

Casita: If you have a sudden craving for mantı, Casita is the place to go. Although on the heavier side of things, their çökertme and feraye are addictive, and are the ideal post-party foods.

The House Cafe: The birthplace of the restaurant chain, this branch on Atiye Sokak has become a classic. Ideal for ladies-who-lunch as well as business lunches. For something fresh, order their lemonade with mint.

Maybe Salomanje: After revamping its concept and décor, the restaurant, previously known as Salomanje, came back as Maybe Salomanje. Celebrity spotting possible during Sunday brunches. A must-go for after-work drinks.

Kav Butik: No longer just a liquor store (and a very comprehensive one indeed), Kav is now functioning as a wine bar. Food is provided by the nearby Zanzibar.

The coastal neighborhoods on the European Side of Istanbul offer many restaurants and cafes for breakfast and brunch, from gourmet venues to the high-scale hotel brunches, from the casual to the quick and cheap. Here is a shortlist of the best casual Sunday brunch spots along the Bosphorus.

Bebek is inarguably one of the best neighborhoods to stroll through on a weekend, especially when the weather is good. Within this upscale neighborhood there is a gem of a place called Bebek Kahve. A classic among Istanbulites, Bebek Kahve is a humble cafe that greets you with wooden tables and chairs, like the coffee houses of yore, local dogs ambling past the front door, and a generally laid-back feel, in stark contrast to the swish, LA style of most of Bebek’s restaurants and cafes. It has its own little space next to the mosque by the waterfront, and is a wonderfully tucked away place for a leisurely brunch. Alongside the usual trappings of a Turkish feast of olives, cheese, and tea, there are nice additions, like the fresh simit, toasted and sprinkled with red chili flakes, to have with your cheese and olives, or the kaymak (clotted cream) and honey. There is also a choice of eggs—omelet, menemen (Turkish scrambled eggs with tomato and peppers), or eggs cooked with pieces of sucuk (beef sausage), brought sizzling to your table. Be prepared for possible celeb-sightings and hung-over glitterati trying to sober up with a cup of tea or coffee before continuing their party across the street at Lucca.

A 20-minute walk away from Bebek, you'll reach Rumelihisarı. Unlike its posh counterpart, Rumelihisarı is filled with low-key restaurants and cafes. Sade Kahve and Kale Cafe are our top picks from that area. Both cafes have fantastic views of the Bosphorus and feature a similar menu. We recommend that you go in a group so that you can sample a variety of their delicacies.

Sade Kahve only has outdoor seating and, surprisingly, it’s even filled during cold winter days—possibly a testament to its inimitably relaxing atmosphere and good food. While it gets too crowded during spring and summer and you'll probably need to wait in line before you can get a table, the food and the atmosphere are certainly worth the wait. The menu is filled with classic Turkish breakfast fare, including cheese, olives, tomatoes, cucumbers, and honey. Their sahanda yumurta (fried eggs) are fantastic. If you’re not counting calories, go for sahanda sucuk (fried beef sausage) or sahanda sucuklu yumurta (fried eggs with beef sausage). Their gözleme and simit with cheese are must-tries. Nothing beats their coffee, made with traditional equipment, which makes for a bitter-sweet ending to your brunch.

A classic of Istanbul Sundays since 1983, Kale is still the king of hearts. The cafe is very humble and doesn’t feature a particularly inviting atmosphere but it arguably has the best breakfast in the neighborhood. The ultimate destination if you're after a casual Sunday brunch with classic breakfast fare.

Yeniköy Kahvesi, located a ten-minute ride from Rumelihisarı, feels like an oasis in the middle of the city, offering a casual and relaxing spot under the trees. You can either take a cab there (if you can bare the traffic) or jog from Bebek. You won’t have a problem finding this spot—a big yellow sign will lead you up the stairs through leafy trees. You’ll come across an unexpected view of the Bosphorus—this place definitely has the awe factor! For brunch, you’ll find the classic Turkish breakfast fare. They also carry organic breakfast dishes, including cheese, eggs, honey, marmalade, olives, butter, tomatoes, and cucumbers. Make sure to try their homemade lemonade. Surprisingly so, they play classical music in the mornings! We don’t know why but it surely adds to the relaxing feel of the venue, making it an ideal place to read a book or a newspaper. And you don’t need to bring your own—you can grab a book from their collection.

The furthest stop on our brunch hunt on the coastal neighborhoods of the European side is Meşhur Sarıyer Börekçisi, offering a less healthy but sweeter option. Their şekerli börek (pastry sprinkled with powdered sugar) is the tastiest—keep in mind that the portions are quite large so you might want to share. If you’re not big on sweets, try their börek with potatoes or meat. They also offer a range of Turkish pastry products and their poğaça is the softest and crumbliest. Skip your morning coffee intake and go for tea, which is a much better accompaniment to these pastry products.

You might be in hot pursuit of achieving a bikini-body in time for your next beach holiday, but you can’t refuse these oh-so-worth-it brunches. If you want to go to bed with a clear conscious, walk or jog on your way to your chosen brunch spot.

Meyhanes are split into two camps: some focus on the "merry" in the "eat, drink and be merry" equation with live fasıl (traditional) Turkish music, raucous sing-a-longs, and belly dancing on tables. Others focus on the eating and drinking, attracting customers who prefer good food and good conversation; these "hardcore" meyhanes are largely centered in Beyoğlu, the nucleus of Istanbul’s social and intellectual life.

If you too wish to experience the uniquely Turkish meyhane happenings, the following meyhanes in Beyoğlu and Kuruçeşme will more than satisfy your expectations. Although they all provide a similar service, each has a distinct variation of the meyhane theme.

Refik

Established in 1954, Refik is the quintessential intellectual’s meyhane. Long before Istanbul’s pseudo-intellectuals made Asmalımescit their haunt, left-wing writers and artists were thronging Refik. It is owned and operated by Refik Arslan, a larger-than-life character with a bulbous red nose who still meets patrons at the door. Refik is a drinker’s meyhane—the food is almost incidental to the rakı and conversation. Still, the food is very good. There is no set menu—just pick and choose what you would like. Make sure to try the Arnavut ciğeri (Albanian-style liver), kuzu sarma (stuffed lamb), kağıtta pastırma (dried beef en papillote), and patlıcan salatası (eggplant salad). There’s no music, as it would interfere with the intense conversations.

Yakup 2

Opened in 1982 and operated by Yakup Arslan, the brother of Refik Arslan (owner of Refik). It too is located in Asmalımescit, a mecca for meyhane goers. Yakup 2 is a large, humbly decorated venue that affords plenty of opportunity for people-watching. The walls are covered in aging theatre posters. This used to be a very popular venue with the intelligentsia and artistic crowd. Like Refik, Yakup 2 attracts people who take their drinking very seriously. There is no set menu here. There are over 30mezes; specialties include kıymalı muska böreği (pastry stuffed with minced meat), octopus salad, fried calamari, shrimp casserole, and Arnavut ciğeri (Albanian-style liver). If you have space for a main course, choose from the catch of the day, meat, or chicken. Note that there is no live music.

Ya & Re

The Arslan family’s third generation opened Ya & Re, bringing the forces of Yakup and Refik together in one venue.Ya&Re is situated in Asmalımescit near Babylon among all the other buzzing meyhanes, bars, and clubs so there is a great atmosphere in the area with much nightly revelry. You’ll find delicious cold and hot meze dishes, such as pilaki and eggplant salad. Main courses feature meat and fish dishes, char-grilled and in some cases fried. Pricing is fairly reasonable, with appetizers starting at 10 TL and main dishes ranging between 15 and 30 TL. A range of set menus are also on offer for around 70 TL. Keep in mind that the venue gets quiet packed, especially on weekends.

Cumhuriyet

History buffs and traditionalists should head to Cumhuriyet, as it was the founder of the Turkish Republic Atatürk’s favorite meyhane. Cumhuriyet (which suitably means republic) is one of the oldest and most famous of Beyoğlu’s meyhanes. At over 100 years old, Cumhuriyet is more than a meyhane, it is an Istanbul landmark. On every 10^th of November, the anniversary of Atatürk’s death, a glass of Kulüp Rakı (his preferred brand of rakı) and a bowl of his favorite white leblebi (roasted chick peas) are placed on his table at 9:05 am, the hour of his death. Cumhuriyet serves a set menu of cold and hot mezes and a main course. You can ostensibly have wine with your meal, but rakı is advised, if only out of respect for Atatürk. Cumhuriyet is located on three floors seating a total of 650 people. There is live fasıl (traditional Turkish) music on the third floor every night.

The following article was prepared by Mr. Kıraç for The Guide Istanbul and published in the November/ December 1994 issue.

The recent addition of wine bars in Istanbul put a new spin on wine tasting. These wine bars look for ways to remove the association of wine with upscale clientele and overwhelming wine lists by offering a more casual and relaxing atmosphere for clients looking to experiment with wines. Having embraced the intellectual stimulation linked to wine, wine bars offer an alternative to the bar scene. The laid-back environment lends itself to a good socializing setting with a less crowded feel and more intimate appeal.

CORVUS WINE & BITE

Concept and Philosophy: Corvus Wine & Bite's primary purpose is to promote and introduce Corvus wines and different foods from Bozcaada to a wider audience.

The Wine: All come from Corvus Vineyards. Over 25 choices are on offer, most are red, but white, rose, and sweet options are available as well.

Owner: Reşit Soley purchased 200,000 square meters of land in Bozcaada (a small island in the Aegean Sea) and worked with companies in France, Italy, and Israel to establish Corvus Vineyards. In April 2003, the plants produced their first leaves and began bearing fruit by August. Then, in February 2004, he purchased an old Cognac Factory on the island; in a short period of time (nearly 4 months), he transformed it into a contemporary winery equipped with the latest technology.

Décor & Ambiance: Corvus does not resemble a typical wine bar: the décor is modern and elegant, and top-notch china and flatware are used. The interior walls are decorated with artwork of Yılmaz Aysan, an Istanbul-based artist, designer, and teacher.

Menu: The menu includes a long list of tapas dishes, from specialty cheeses from Bozcaada, Kars, Konya, and Niğde to gourmet-style small bites, and a few dishes prepared by chefs from select restaurants in Istanbul.

Recommended Dishes: Ezine Cheese (one-year aged white cheese from Bozcaada) with dried fig puree; Roasted eggplant, walnuts, and mulberry molasses; Şans Restaurant’s slow cooked beef ribs, buttered wheat, and grape molasses; Shrimp, spinach, and bell pepper sauté

Service: The wait staff is efficient, friendly, and knowledgeable, and speaks English, French, and German.

Pluses: The menu is very eclectic and most dishes are prepared with regional products from Bozcaada. The outdoor seating area is on a wide and quiet street.

Minuses: Only one brand of wine is served. The lighting in the interior is a little too harsh.

General information: Wine, cheese, bread, marmalades, olive oil, tea, and herbs can be purchased to take home.

ROUGE

Concept & Philosophy: A wine bar, restaurant, and wine shop all in one. Rouge aims to promote good food, good wine, and good conversations.

The Wine: Over 260 varieties of the best Turkish and international wines and champagnes are available. Turkish brands include Kavaklıdere, Doluca, Turasan, Pamukkale, and Likya. Among the foreign wines and champagnes, Pascal Jolivet, Hill & Dale, Hugel Reisling, Domaine Larouche, Torres, Cune Rioja, Sacha Lichine, Frescobaldi, Moët & Chandon, Veuve Clicquot, and Dom Pérignon are available. Over 60 varieties are available by the glass.

Owner: Mehmet Yalçın is a journalist, writer, and owner of Gusto Magazine (established in 2001 and Turkey’s first magazine dedicated to the culture of drinking). He is a self-taught authority on wine and spirits; he honed his knowledge by devouring publications on local and foreign spirits. In 1989, he started writing a column about wine for Erkekçe, a men’s magazine; he formed an association with the now-deceased Turkish gourmet Tuğrul Şavkay to bring together wine lovers; between 1997-2001, he was the editor of lifestyle magazineGurme; he has written two books Whisky from A-Z with Teoman Hünal and Wine from A-Z; he continues to write a column about wine and spirits in the Sunday supplement of Milliyet newspaper.

Décor & Ambiance: The eclectically-decorated Rouge is reminiscent of a typical wine bar, but with a twist. The walls are decorated with art work of the owner’s artist wife Hülya Botasun, and the interior is further decorated with mahogany, brick walls, and shimmering lighting. This homey and casual wine bar features a casually-decorated terrace off the main floor, and outdoor seating is available in the front of the venue on Lamartin Street.

Menu: The menu includes local and international cheeses, deli meat platters, a good assortment of appetizers, and main courses on the a la carte menu.

Recommended Dishes: Normandy Style Mussels in Curry Sauce; Grilled Pork Sausage;Grilled Salmon Steak

Service: The wait staff is very efficient and knowledgeable and speaks English.

Pluses: The quality and ingredients of the food are very good. Most importantly, almost all of the dishes on the a la carte menu are available in half portions. Rouge has a separate wine shop where over 400 varieties of wine and champagne are available and categorized (such as best sellers and award winning wines). Also, quality liqueurs (such as Chambord and Amaretto di Saronna), whisky, and vodka are sold.

Minuses: Lamartin Street is a bustling pedestrian-only street and can be very crowded; so it does tend to be noisy when sitting outdoors.

General Information: There is live Latin-Jazz music on Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday evenings. DJ music on all other nights. A set lunch menu is available daily.

SENSUS WINE & CHEESE BOUTIQUE

Concept & Philosophy: Sensus Wine & Cheese Boutique is a typical wine bar offering only wine and cheese.

The Wine: Over 380 wines from 27 Turkish distributors are available: over 6 are available by the glass and the choices vary periodically.

Owner: Sensus is owned and managed by the Anemon Hotels Group. The brainchild behind the wine & cheese boutique is Oğuz Akçura, Chairman of the Executive Board of Directors and an avid wine enthusiast. Because of his passion for wine, which he developed while abroad, they also have Wine Vineyards in Kula-Manisa, which gave its first harvest in 2008. Their own brand Ventus is a blend of cabernet sauvignon, syrah, and merlot.

Décor & Ambiance: The elegantly-decorated venue does not resemble a typical wine bar. There is a long bar, with seating for 6-7 people on one side and a separate seating area in the rear with a capacity for about 20 people.

Menu: Only a variety of seasonal Turkish cheeses are served.

Service: The staff is very friendly, knowledgeable, and speaks English. There is an in-house sommelier, Izmir born Ilhan Olam, with 7 years experience.

Pluses: Wine tasting menus are available. Bulk purchases of wine can be delivered to any location in Turkey. Wine tasting seminars can be organized for groups. Some wine paraphernalia, such as corkscrew, boxes, wine bottle stoppers, are sold.

Minuses: Food is not served and no outdoor seating area is available— there are standing platforms on the street as the street is narrow and on a slant.

General information: Branches of Sensus are now open at the Anemon Hotels in Eskişehir and Antakya.

The Best of the Rest

Kristal Büfe: One of the oldest burger houses in Istanbul that serve Turkish-style hamburgers that are made with köfte (spicy ground meet) between two buns, usually with toppings such as cheese, ketchup, and pickles.

Jumbo Burger: Their specialty mayonnaise is a mix of classic mayonnaise and honey. You should definitely try some for a unique french fries experience.

Kral Burger: Kral makes delicious burgers prepared with a special olive sauce. Classic.

Mano Burger: An alternative approach to burgers awaits you at Mano with a selection of Turkish style burgers. They even have a burger served with beğendi—a cream sauce made largely of pureed eggplant.

Numnum: If you are looking for a classic American burger, Numnum is the place to go!

Fol in Love: A popular newbie among burger joints. If indulging in their delicious burgers does not cut it for you, try their baked potatoes with heavy cream and parmesan sauce served in soufflé cups.

Susam: This 24/7 eatery is famous for its salads as well as its burgers.

Kızılkayalar: They serve special “wet” burgers—these small burgers are dipped in tomato sauce and steamed for hours, resulting in a moist and succulent burger. They may not look it, but these burgers are top-notch. I guarantee you’ll go for seconds!

Everyone has their personal preferences when it comes to burgers, from the size of the patty and the size of the bun to the selections of toppings, condiments, and sides. During my burger scout, I searched through the serious burger joints and found that the crème de la crème are Gourmet Burger Kitchen (GBK), Burger Bar, Dükkan Burger, and Burger House.

The Common Denominator:

1. They all use rib meat, either char-grilled or prepared on a lava-stone grill, flipped maximum 2 to 3 times to preserve their juices
2. All the ingredients are prepared in-house daily
3. They offer mini burgers (and most offer a “no-bun” option)
4. They all serve beef bacon rather than pork (and it unfortunately doesn’t taste as good)

Burger Bar

Burger Bar, the first burger joint of the European side of Istanbul, was intended to serve as a take-away and delivery shop rather than an eat-in restaurant. Yet, they swapped their first intentions for a full-blown enterprise and opened Burger Bar. The owners’ love of burgers formed the framework of their project, and they concentrated on getting the best quality ingredients all in one burger and tried various suppliers until they got it just right.

Coming all the way from the Trakya region, the meat at Burger Bar has the ideal fat ratio of 20\\% and is grounded in-house daily. The burgers were just right with the perfect size, shape, and taste. The size of the burger matches the size of a fist and the meat is neither too thin nor too thick, so your burger doesn’t break down even with a bunch of toppings and sauces. On the menu, you can find four original burgers, which are cooked to order and can be dressed up with several toppings. They have good fries but if you can’t decide between two burgers or a burger and fries, definitely go with two burgers!

French fry Meter:The first burger place in town to serve fried white potatoes! Burger Bar has three types of french fries: curly, shoestring, and wedges.

Best Sides Beside Fries:Falafel

GBK

A kiwi enterprise established in 2000,GBKchallenges the idea that a hamburger is just fast food, offering a unique approach by creating an elegant burger-eating experience in a stylish and (almost) fine-dining setting. Having won several awards on the burger front, this kiwi project was sold to Clapham House Group, which made it an international success. Yet, GBK stayed true to its vision: creating fresh fast food served in an elegant manner—on a plate, with a fork and knife.

GBK offers Gönen and Angus meat, the former being a district in Balıkesir. The meat is cooked to order but if you forget to specify, they’ll prepare it well done. A tough decision awaits you as the menu has over 25 burger selections, as well as a mix-and-match option with several sauces to create the burger to suit your mood. All burgers have juicy, top-notch beef (usually crowned with fresh lettuce, tomatoes, crispy red onion, cheddar cheese, and tomato relish) that is topped with their scandalous bun, which is fresh and soft, and crunchy on the outside.

French fry Meter:Gourmet Burger serves homemade french fries; they don’t have a killer taste, but at least they are not as greasy or unhealthy as the ones you usually come across!

Best sides Besides Fries:Cheese & Berry (which almost stole the show)

Dükkan Burger

DükkanBurger is a retro-style burger chain that first opened in 2004 as a butcher in Reşitpaşa, which then turned into a steakhouse in 2007, and then branched out as Dükkan Burger. The owners are brothers Emre and Bülent Mermer, who are the second generation in their family to deal with the proper nutrition of their livestock in İzmit. They get their meat from corn-fed heifer and suckling veal, resulting in enhanced flavor and tenderness of the patties. Trust me when I say they know their meat!

Unlike others, Dükkan prefers to keep it simple; although the menu offers some inventive burgers besides the classics, the menu doesn’t overwhelm the customer with too many options. Their patties have intense beef flavor, are cooked to order (although they prefer serving it medium), and are served on toasted sesame buns with lettuce, tomato, and onions. It’s simple, straightforward, and they know just how to serve a good burger!

French fry Meter:Although they use frozen potatoes, Dükkan has the best French fries among all. The lip-smacking fries are seasoned with salt and ground black pepper and appear even more inviting in their paper bags.

Best sides Beside Fries:Pickles (Ankara Çubuk Turşusu)

Burger House

Established by Kemal Özgürer and Özüm Sönmezalp,Burger Houserelies on quality: everything (including the potatoes) are prepared in-house daily. This eatery gives its customers a cozy feeling with its potato and onion filled barrels by the entrance, thick wooden tables, and of course it’s delicious burgers! The selection of burgers is overwhelming and, like many other burger joints, a mix-and-match option is available. Burger House’s flame-kissed patties are caramelized on the outside and the gooey cheese and tomato or corn relish add more juiciness to the mix. This burger joint is definitely worth a trip to the Asian side!

French fry Meter:Its burgers are so filling that you may not even ask for any fries, but if you do, rest assured that their fries are freshly made and delicious (especially when their sweet paprika is sprinkled on).

Best Sides Beside Fries:Haloumi Stick

Undoubtedly, rice is the main common ingredient for both pilaf and risotto. However, unlike pilaf, risotto is very seldom prepared plain. As a result, the type of rice grain used differs substantially.

Arborio and carnaroli, which are round, short grain and sticky, are the preferred choices for risotto. On the other hand, to get the best results when cooking pilaf, it is best to use a long grain rice such as basmati or jasmine. Simply put, there is no dish that is more basic, comforting and adaptable than pilaf or risotto. If you plan on preparing either dish, the extent of your creativity is the only limit.

Pilaf is best combined with nuts, dried fruits or countless spices, while risotto is best paired with seafood, a variety of mushrooms or even red wine. Nevertheless, some sort of liquid is a requirement for both: risotto likes to dance slowly with the liquid mixture, while rice enjoys absorbing it into its soul.

The first rule when preparing a good pilaf dish is to first soak the rice in salted water for about half an hour to remove the extra starch and eliminate its stickiness. The second essential requirement is to use real butter (not margarine or olive oil). Once the butter melts, stir in the rice and mix frequently so that each grain is coated with a small amount of butter. Then, pour in your liquid of choice: this can be plain water or broth (chicken, meat or vegetable), just enough to cover the surface of the rice. Once it starts boiling, let it simmer on low heat without anymore intervention.

Etymologically, pilaf derives from its Persian roots pillow or cilow. As it migrated towards eastern Anatolia, it gained a new name: çilav. Finally, after many years and dialects, the name became widely known as pilaf. There are three major methods of cooking pilaf: salma, kavurma and buryani. Salma is when rice is cooked by just simmering it with liquid. The kavurma technique is when other ingredients such as onions or nuts are sautéed in melted butter, oil or meat fat before the rice and broth or liquid is added. Lastly, when preparing buryani style pilaf, pre-cooked meat, fish or vegetables are added to the cooked pilaf and then left to simmer together before serving.

Throughout Turkey there are numerous different methods for preparing pilaf, depending on the agricultural produce available in the region, and of course the cultural traditions of the community. For instance, in the Circassian communities, pilaf is prepared with coriander and simply called circassian pilavı. Along the Black Sea coast, pilaf prepared with anchovies (hamsi), a local fish, is a part of almost everyone’s daily diet. Another common pilaf dish in many regions is prepared with fried cubes of eggplant, garlic, tomatoes, cumin, coriander and a pinch of sugar. Pehlili Pilavı, a common dish in central Anatolia is plain pilaf, cooked with the juice of lamb and sometimes served with boiled chickpeas.

For almost all Turks, pilaf is like the lyrics of a song. Just like a song is meaningless without its words, a main course without a side dish of pilaf is unimaginable in most Turkish homes. In fact, most of the time, it is considered a ‘foundation dish’ as often the main course is served on top of the pilaf. Specifically, a meat dish served without a side of pilaf, would be like a hamburger served without the bun!

If you are just serving vegetable dishes and pilaf is not served, more than likely, your guests will leave the table still hungry. Just like an intermezzo, pilaf is often consumed in order to clense the palate between courses. For example, when pilaf is served with hoşaf, a ‘soupy’ fruity dessert, the sweetness perfectly plays off the fatty starches of the pilaf.

On the other hand, risotto is a ‘solo’ player. In Italian menus, it is placed between l'antipasto, which literally means ‘before the meal’ and il secondo (main courses). Risottos are placed in the il primo section alongside other carbohydrate laden options. When cooking risotto, the rice grain needs to be short grain and round: Arborio, Carnaroli, Vialone Nano or Baldo are the most popular choices. Due to its absorption ability, short grain rice tends to have more concentrated flavors and takes on a more distinctive saucy texture when broth is added.

Although it might appear that preparing risotto is labor intensive, this is actually not the case, as it ofen takes only about half an hour to prepare this fulfilling dish. The first step when preparing risotto is to sauté onions in melted butter, oil or meat fat. Once onions are soft, the rice is added and further sautéed in a stainless steel pot for a few minutes.

This process is called tostatura, which means to coat the rice grains with fat. At this point wine is added for both fruitiness and acidity. The wine can be white or red, depending on the type of risotto being made. For example, if preparing Risotto Barolese (typical to the Barolo region in Piemonte), red wine from the same region is added. Also, adding the wine before the broth allows the rice to reduce the excess alcohol of the wine. After all the wine is absorbed, you can start adding your broth. Chicken, meat, vegetable or even shellfish broth are among the options. If you do not wish to use broth, plain water can also be used, but the richness of the flavor will suffer.

The first time you pour the broth, make sure there is enough to cover the surface of the rice and that you are cooking over moderate heat. Even though you need not stir the mixture excessively, it is important that you do not leave the pot unattended. It is time to add more broth once you notice that the amount of liquid remaining has substantially reduced, otherwise the starches may burn quickly.

Conversely, adding too much broth will make the risotto soggy. At the 2nd pouring stage, add salt. In total, it will take approximately 20 to 30 minutes to cook risotto by adding 5-6 ladles of broth as it reduces down. The final, essential step is called montecatura: add butter and grated parmesan cheese, stirring once or twice before letting the dish settle. Risotto can be considered a main course in itself and does not require any accompaniment the way rice pilaf does.

Risotto can be prepared plain or anything and everything from mushrooms, asparagus and saffron to fish can be added during cooking, it’s totally up to the imagination of the chef! But one important note to make: when adding fish, shellfish or fresh herbs to the dish, it must be done right before adding parmesan cheese. Just as there are do's, the don’ts when preparing risotto include: adding cream; adding too much or too little liquid (broth); waiting too long to serve the dish; using low quality parmesan cheese and confusing the stages of adding the ingredients.

Related Content:

Gamze’s Anchovy (Hamsi)
Pilaf Lemon Risotto
Which is your Choice: Risotto or Pilaf?

Some options on where to eat pilaf in Istanbul:
Located in the heart of the Galata district, Kivahan is the place to experience the transition from traditional to modern era cooking. The menu changes daily, offering different tastes from Anatolia and beyond. Pilaf dishes include Pehlili pilaf from Tokat and Alatlı pilaf with dried grapes.

Çiya is the restaurant of choice on the Asian side of the city for down home Turkish food in casual surroundings at modest prices. Be sure to try the Perde Pilavı rice dish.

Established in 1876, Hacı Abdullah’s menu includes around 150 Turkish and Ottoman dishes daily! A specialty rice dish at this eatery is Iç Pilavı.

Hünkar is also a household name for Turkish cuisine and always gets high marks from diners. You can dine at Hünkar in Etiler and Nişantaşı on the European side of the city or in Göztepe on the Asian side. Pilaf with anchovies is one of Hünkar’s great rice dishes.

Kanaat has been open since 1933 and is another place to go on the Asian side of the city for typical Turkish cuisine. Kanaat’s Eggplant (patlıcan) pilaf is particularly good.

Konyalı is another longstanding and prominent eatery with several branches throughout the city. Their branch at Kanyon shopping mall, where you can try their staple Saray Pilavı dish.

Open since 1901 Pandeli is something of an Istanbul institution, specializing in Turkish and Greek cuisines: the Domatesli Pilav (pilaf with tomatoes) is recommended.

Some options on where to eat risotto in Istanbul:

Da Mario is located in a lovely secluded villa in Etiler with indoor and outdoor dining areas. The wild mushroom risotto comes highly recommended.

Located on the 2nd floor of the museum with the same name, but independently managed, Istanbul Modern Restaurant prepares a very good seafood risotto. Views of the old city and Bosphorus are thrown in at no extra cost!

The chic and trendy 10-plus year old Paper Moon is still by far the most popular Italian restaurant in town. It is always a good idea to make a reservation, as it is usually full for both lunch and dinner. Chef Giuseppe Presane’s risotto with porcini mushrooms is recommended.

Related Content:

Isn’t it Rice: A closer look at risotto and pilaf
Gamze’s Anchovy (Hamsi)
Pilaf Lemon Risotto

Esnaf restaurants have been around since the first days of the Ottoman Empire when Istanbul was (and very much still is) an important port and a very busy trading center where thousands of merchants lived and practised their trade. When eating out, tradesmen wanted the tastes of home: the meals prepared by their wives and mothers. While the master chefs behind the food at an esnaf lokanta are generally large, moustachioed and unquestionably male, they do a good job of replicating the dishes prepared by these tradesmen’s womenfolk toiling away in the family kitchen. If they didn’t, they wouldn’t get any custom – these customers are very discerning.

Here we give 7 of our favorite esnaf lokantas, which we recommend both for those who are on a budget, and for those who may be filthy rich but want to try out Turkish home cooking!

Aslan Restaurantis a stone’s throw from the Nuruosmaniye entrance to the Grand Bazaar on Vezirhan Street. Located on the 2^nd floor of a commercial building, this modestly decorated eatery can hold up to 60 people and faces the street overlooking the Grand Bazaar. Named after owner Aslan Karakoç, head chef Adem Kılıç and his team of 3 assistants have been in charge of the kitchen since it opened in 1988.

The menu changes daily and consists of approximately 10 hot dishes, 6 olive oil dishes and a variety of classic Turkish desserts. What makes Aslan different from most tradesman restaurants is the fact that fish is served. Depending on the season, sea bass, gilt-head bream, salmon and blue fish are some of the choices offered – grilled or stewed. Tea and Turkish coffee is on the house.

Doyuran Loktantasıstands out among all the other eateries in the area in the Kumkapı District: it is the only restaurant in the neighborhood that does not serve alcohol, appetizers or fish and stands alone among the fish restaurants in this touristy neighborhood where eating, drinking, loud conversation and singing along to the live music is the norm! It is a small, charming eatery owned and managed by husband and wife Musa and Aynur Ergenç and their son. Ms. Ergenç prepares 8 to 10 hot dishes and kuru fasulye pilav (navy beans and rice pilaf) is always on the menu. Only two desserts are served: tel kadayıfı (shredded wheat soaked in syrup) and sütlaç(rice pudding). Doyuran does not charge extra for water and bread. Tea and Turkish coffee are on the house.

Fasuli Lokantası was born in 2001. 27 year-old owner Mehmet Akif Köse is quite the entrepreneur if you consider that he was only 19 years old when the restaurant was established: then only a tiny little eatery with 4 tables in the neighborhood of Cerrahpaşa. Today, they have 4 branches throughout the city and the main branch is in Tophane (a neighborhood between Karaköy and Kabataş) with indoor and outdoor seating areas. The main dish at Fasuli is kuru fasulye pilav(white bean pilav). The Fasuli recipe for this dish is a jealously guarded secret – all we know is that the result is delicious. All the dishes are from the Black Sea Region and favorites include Hemşin Mıhlaması(prepared with maize flour, butter and cheese) and Karalahana Sarması(stuffed kale or savoy cabbage). Desserts include tel kadayıfı (shredded wheat in syrup), baklavaand Laz Böreği (Black Sea region specialty – layered pastry with a creamy filling).

Güler Osmanlı Mutfağı, in Kadiköy on the Asian side of town, has a capacity for 75 people and is decorated with black and white photographs of Old Istanbul, while the tables are adorned with old postcards. The day starts at 8:30am with a different soup served throughout the week. For lunch and dinner, about 12-14 hot dishes, a variety of kebabs and 4-5 cold olive oil dishes are prepared. Some favorites include Hünkâr Beğendi (Sultan’s Delight – prepared with lamb and eggplant), keşkek(pounded wheat and meat dish), beğendili köfte (Turkish style meatballs served on a bed of eggplant puree) and galaçoş(lentil, onion and yogurt dish). But the list is much longer and includes many more delicious Ottoman cuisine dishes worth trying. The dessert specialties are the Osmanlı Tatlısı(prepared with shredded wheat, walnuts and yogurt) andPadişah Tatlısı (prepared with semolina halvah and cream).

Havuzlu Restaruant is situated next to the Grand Bazaar and is decorated with tiles from Iznik, copper, old prints and antique carpets. You can opt to dine at the restaurant’s outer courtyard or inside, where you will see the small pool that it was named after (“havuzlu” means “with a pool”) in the center of the restaurant. The tables are adorned with “chemin de table” tablecloths and the wait staff wears uniforms according to their rank. Chef Osman Kıraç has been in charge since 2002 and works with his 4 assistants preparing about 20 hot and cold dishes daily. Additionally, döneris served. Desserts include the “traditional” şekerpareand kemalpaşa(soft pastry desserts in syrup) along with fırın sütlaç(baked rice pudding) andkrem karamel(crème caramel): the ayva tatlısı(quince) dessert is a headliner on the menu, but only available in the winter.

Tarihî Subaşı Lokantası is located in an old historical building, again near the Grand Bazaar. One of the best tradesmen’s restaurants in the city, this eatery opened in 1961 and is managed by the Görür family, originally from Thessalonica. Tarihî Subaşı is now managed by the third generation Kemal Veysel Görür. He states that not much has changed since his grandfather’s time: the recipes are the same, however, now instead of butter; vegetable oil is used in preparing the dishes. The staff is also longstanding: chef Mustafa Yener has been in charge of the kitchen since 1992 and restaurant manager Mehmet Karanfil has been on the job since 1971! One problem with the venue is that since it is a historical building, renovations are not allowed and the kitchen cannot be expanded. Even so, roughly 40 dishes (8 of which are cold olive oil dishes) are available daily and consist of meat, chicken, vegetable and fish that are boiled, stewed or oven baked: the soup and dessert selection changes daily.

Yanyalı Fehmi Lokantası is on the Asian side of the city in Kadıköy, and has a capacity for 200 people, fairly unusual for a traditional esnaf lokanta .The dining area in the back is glass encased, airy and decorated with rock reliefs, flowers and plants. The selections are quite extensive with an astonishing 19 types of soup, 9 varieties of rice dishes, kebabs, grills, vegetable and cold olive oil dishes, fish and desserts among others. All dishes are depicted with pictures: descriptions are written in Turkish and English and all are prepared with either peanut or olive oil. The specialty of the house is Yanyan Köftesi – Turkish style meatballs prepared with chopped meat (beef & lamb), eggplant, tomatoes, hazelnuts and spices.