What started off as a tiny corner köfteci in 1980 became a meatball legend that is now situated in a two-story restaurant. It’s a locale that attracts anyone who knows how to appreciate a humble yet divinely delicious serving of meatballs.

An ideal spot for a quick lunch or dinner with a couple of friends or family, Ali Baba is a humble neighborhood eatery where love of meatballs is shared over at leastbi buçuk porsiyon (one and a half portions of meatballs). The typical Ali Baba dinner starts with piyaz, a classic Turkish salad made with white beans, diced tomatoes, and onions. First, the dried oregano and red pepper is generously sprinkled on top, followed by a desired amount of olive oil, vinegar, and lemon. Then, a piece of the freshest bread is dipped in, marking the first juicy bite of the night that tests whether the perfect piyaz consistency has been reached. Once a colossal smile takes over the face, the guests dive in for the first forkful.

In no time, the sizzling portion of soft and juicy meatballs fresh off the grill is served with tomato wedges and onions. Many customers will order a second portion, or at least half a portion, of these addictive little things. You can eat it plain or make it into a little sandwich. You can order it as dürüm (wrap) as well.

Any meal at Ali Baba will end with a complimentary glass of tea. And if you like, you can go for the Kemal Pasa tatlısı (a syrupy dessert made with cheese, flour, semolina halvah, and eggs) or irmik (semolina halvah). But rest assured that it’s the melt-in-your-mouth delicious meatballs that will keep you coming back to Ali Baba.

Köfteci Ali Baba, Arnavutköy Mahallesi Arnavutköy Bebek Caddesi No.69, Arnavutköy; P: (0212) 263 13 61

The two-story coffee shop is furnished with vintage-looking chairs, tables, lamps, and posters, plus a variety of nostalgic objects. The mood here is very pseudo-European, with groups of artists passionately discussing their latest project creating a feel that is reminiscent of Café de Flore circa 1945. There are also the freshly in love couples, sitting a breath away from each other, sipping coffee and getting lost in each other’s eyes. The soft jazz, the New Yorker magazines on the tables, and the men with the artist stamp of a full grown bear and glasses give this meeting spot a decidedly urban and artsy spin.

Karaköy locals and Istanbul’s hipster population like hanging out at this Austrian café, where checkered floors, colorful walls, and the soothing music create a linger-friendly vibe. The feel-at-home comfort is multiplied in the form of an apple pie or a cup of Wiener Melange. Many frequenters settle in with their morning paper, a cappuccino (served in a little silver tray), and a muffin or croissant, while others head to the Karaköy hotspot in the evening to enjoy their entrees, like the Schnitzel (chicken or beef), the Frankfurter, or Penne Pesto.

The success of this neighborhood fixture can be attributed to its location in the hottest Istanbul neighborhood, the zealous gourmet coffee selection, and the tasty dishes that equally serve coffee drinkers and diners. More than 40 different coffee varieties overwhelm the coffee selection, from classics like Espresso and Café Latte to Julius specialties like Franziskaner (espresso with cream) and Einspanner (double espresso, black coffee, steamed cream, topped with whipped Cream). A limited menu of mains and sandwiches, breakfast treats like pancake and omelets, plus the nearly twenty kinds of desserts make Julius much more than just a corner coffee shop.

With its warm and welcoming mood, this is the place to linger, to read a book, to grab a friend for a lingering tête-à-tête. If you’re by yourself, the upstairs area is ideal for you, your cup of coffee, and your favorite book. If you’re on a let’s-get-to-know-each-other date, keep it downstairs, perhaps outside enjoying the breeze. If you’re with a group of friends, consider sitting in the area in the back – you’ll have a lot more space to yourself and the roaring laughers won’t interrupt the other customers.

Julius Meinl/Karabatak Karaköy,Kemankeş Karamustafa Paşa Mahallesi Kara Ali Kaptan Sokak No.7, Karaköy; P: (0212) 243 69 93

Bavarian Cream at Emporio Armani Ristorante: Indulge in something sweet at IstinyePark’s classy Italian restaurant Emporio Armani Ristorante. We suggest the delicious Baverese (Bavarian White Chocolate). IstinyePark Shopping Mall, Istinye Bayırı Caddesi No. 73, İstinye; P: (0212) 345 61 40

Künefe at Ali Baba: You can make a day out of Sunday, May 13th, and take your mother to Büyükada. Have dinner at Ali Baba, one of the best fish restaurants on the island, and top it off with one of the classic Turkish desserts, künefe (cheese-filled dessert with a shredded wheat base).

Katmer at Zerafet: Enjoy this Antep dessert at one of Istanbul’s best kebab restaurants ZerafEt. It’s made of very thin baklava dough,Turkish clotted cream, covered with a generous bed of crumbled pistachios, and served with vanilla ice-cream. Adnan Saygun Caddesi Leylah Apartmanı No.1 14/B, Ulus; P: (0212) 352 60 75

Kup Griye at Baylan: Baylan is one of the oldest and most established patisseries in Istanbul, and its name is almost synonymous with their special dessert Kup Griye. Made with vanilla and caramel ice-cream, whipped cream, caramel sauce, and honey & almond crocan, this dessert has even inspired a fan page of its own! Cevdet Paşa Caddesi No.52-54, Bebek; P: (0212) 358 07 60

Dondurmalı Irmik Helvası at Hünkar: İrmik helvası(semolina helvah) is a classic Turkish dessert, which is made slightly differently at Hünkar with the addition of milk and a secret ingredient that turns this dessert into creamy perfection. Watch out for the vanilla ice-cream that juts out with your first spoonfull. Mim Kemal Öke Caddesi No.21, Nişantaşı; P: (0212) 225 46 65

Mousse au chocolat at Le Fumoir: A glass of champagne and a very very good mousse au chocolat is a simply divine experience at Galata’s hottest spot Le Fumoir. Serdar-ı Ekrem Sokak No.24, Galata; P: (0212) 244 24 23

Tiramisu at Antica Locanda: You can’t beat a well done classic, like the Tiramisu at Arnavutköy’s cozy Italian restaurant Antica Locanda. Satış Meydanı No.12, Arnavutköy; P: (0212) 287 97 45

The bridge never allows the horizon to turn pitch black because its light is always there, something the owners of Ulus29 took into consideration when allowing an expansive view via floor to ceiling windows and dim interior lighting. In the summer, the view is maximized with an outdoor terrace that faces the Bosphorus directly. Also housed in Ulus29, which is located on top of a hill in the Ulus district, is a lounge and club attractive for those interested in a nightlife that carries the upscale elements of the restaurant. Apart from its lavish decor, inclusive of lush golden chandeliers and abstract art works, and a reputation for serving top notch dishes with one of the best views of the Bosphorus in the city, the award winning wine list must also be mentioned.

Prepared by sommelier Stephane Vattepain, the srikingly tall French gentlemen who appears intermittently with several rounds of wine bottle and decanters in hand, is proud of the list prepared according to import availability. The list is not a list, but more of a book, with pages that not only present the best of Turkey (Vattepain recommends the Turkish-grown Syrah the most), but also travels to Italy, France, Australia, Argentina, Chile and much more.

The menu, both of a Turkish and international persuasion, offers a select multitude of dishes prepared with presentation in mind as much as taste. Beginning with the Truffle Scented Jerusalem Soup, a light green concoction both smooth and rich and overall excellent, the meal began favorably to be continued with a mix of sushi rolls including tuna, salmon, and crawfish tartare.

Our wine was revealed to be a bottle of Prodom, Petit Verdot (2010) grown locally in the Aydın region with an acidity most amenable with the red meat centered main dishes. The highlight of the palate parade was the Bone Marrow Crusted Beef Tenderloin and Foie Gras, that combined perfectly tender meat with a sweet and dark sauce. The last entry was the combination of Saddle of Lamb and Lamb Chops served with eggplant puree and fresh thyme, one last presentation of soft meat coupling with the subtly broiled taste of eggplant.

For dessert, the “Valrhona” Caramel Chocolate Mousse with yoghurt jelly and foam offered a contrasting but equally crispy to smooth ending for a satiating hour. A. Adnan Saygun Caddesi Ulus Parkı İçi; P: (0212) 358 29 29

It looks like the weather will be nice and sunny this weekend. And you know what happens on such weekends – crowds flood the neighborhoods along the Bosphorus strait, especially Bebek, stealing the best seat in the most popular cafes, enjoying a late brunch, lunch, or dinner and spending as much time as possible enjoying the fantastic Bosphorus view.

If you want to enjoy the weather at a café or restaurant with a garden or outdoor seating, but don’t want to torture yourself through the Bosphorus traffic, take a look at our suggestions below.

Go Austrian at Julius Meinl:Julius Meinl, otherwise known as Karabatak Karaköy, is one of the hottest cafes in Karaköy right now. But this coffee shop is not just about amazing coffee and irresistible desserts. Here, you’ll also find some Austrian specialties, like Frankfurter and Schnitzel (chicken or beef). Enjoy your lunch or dinner right by the entrance and let the sunlight beam on you. And make sure you indulge in a slice of Sacher Torte, the special Austrian chocolate cake. Just take the metro to Taksim Square, then take the funicular down to Kabataş, and take the tram to Karaköy to avoid traffic. Kemankeş Karamustafa Paşa Mahallesi Kara Ali Kaptan Sokak No.7, P: (0212) 243 69 93

Go Ethnic at Çiya:This Asian Side classic is known the world over for its wide range of delicacies from Syria, Georgia, southern Iran, and all parts of Turkey. Expect to find interesting versions of favorite staple dishes at Çiya, for example stuffed artichoke rather than the usual stuffed pepper, grilled loquats filled with rice and minced meat mixtures or caramelized onions atop the classic dolma (stuffed vine leaves).If you’re on the European Side, hop on a ferry from Beşiktaş to Kadıköy – you’ll get to enjoy the Bosphorus view plus you’ll avoid traffic. Güneşli Bahçesi Sokak No. 43, Kadıköy; P: (0216) 330 31 90

Go Artsy at Istanbul Modern Café: You can have your cake and eat it too, you know. Just head to Istanbul Modern Café, where you can enjoy inventive dishes of meze, seafood, and meat right on the Bosphorus, having toured La La La Human Steps, Istanbul Modern’s latest exhibition that is ending on May 6. Istanbul Modern is located in Tophane, but you can avoid the traffic jam by taking the metro to Taksim Square, where you can hop on the funicular to Kabataş, and then get on the tram to Tophane. Meclisi Mebusan Caddesi Antrepo No. 4 Salıpazarı, Karaköy; P: (0212) 292 26 12

Go Aegean at Maria’nın Bahçesi: You will be surprised to find a lush garden of flowers and intertwined green vines on the side of the road in the Küçükyalı neighborhood on the Asian side, which is exactly what makes Maria’nın Bahçesi (Maria’s Garden) a perfect location for lunch or dinner on a warm day. The menu focuses on Aegean cuisine and includes a selection of seafood dishes including everything from monk fish, to sea bass, to jumbo shrimp. Try the Balıkçının Makarnası (Fisherman’s Pasta), which claims to combine linguini with everything edible from the sea, and in fact really does. Make your reservation on a Friday or Saturday night to listen to the live music available from 8:30pm in the form of a guitarist singing softly away in Italian, Spanish, and Turkish. Küçükyalı Sahilyolu No. 85, Küçükyalı; P: (0216) 519 98 19

Go Italian at Antica Locanda: Antica Locanda is located in Arnavutköy, and there is not really a shortcut or a way of transportation that will take you there without traffic – unless you can walk there. But, even if you get stuck in traffic, the peaceful little garden of Antica Locanda and the mouthwatering dishes will erase your tortured moments in the traffic jam immediately. Especially if you have the calamari stew, or the caramelized chicken breast, the Venetian style fettuccini, or the tiramisu.

Besides Karaköy classics, like Karaköy Lokantası and Lokanta Maya, which serve as great lunch and dinner spots, two cafes are taking the lead in Karaköy: Julius Meinl, also known as Karabatak Karaköy, and Ops Café.

Both these venues have the ideal chill-out settings, for a coffee break, a forget-the-workweek kind of Sunday brunch, a quick lunch break, or tête-à-têtes over tea and dessert. Julius Meinl, which has been open for over a year now, has been attracting a steady stream of customers, and it’s no wonder once you see the venue. The two-story coffee shop takes you into a different world, with the most soothing music playing in the background, sunlight beaming through the windows, and the perfect coffee smell tickling your senses.

The décor is quite special, too, with checkered floors, stacks of coffee beans, nostalgic posters, out-of-your-grandmother’s-house furniture pieces, beautifully worn-out colorful walls, and an overall dream-like interior. The second floor, which is easy to miss out on because the stairs are located right behind the counter, is very similar to but also very different from the first floor. The décor here is on the same line but with an even more homey feel with hardwood floors, colorful carpets, warm navy-blue walls, and hanging lamps. The atmosphere is much calmer here than it is downstairs, almost like a public library, with most tables occupied by individuals, reading, doing work, or contemplating the meaning of life in this room where the dormant philosopher in you will definitely wake up. Downstairs is more social, with tables mostly occupied by small groups chatting over coffee. Now that the weather is warm enough, the outdoor seating is also a great option, especially for watching the Karaköy crowd pass by or reading one of the magazines available, like the New Yorker or the Monocle.

The Austrian origin of Julius Meinl is visible in its food menu, which includes a delicious Schnitzel (chicken or beef) and Frankfurter. There is also less Austrian additions, like soup (broccoli or mushroom), penne arabiata and penne pesto. For breakfast or brunch, you can go for a classic platter, an omelet, a bowl of cornflakes, or something sweet like pancakes and muffins. Don’t let the three-page long coffee list overwhelm you, just ask your friendly waiter to guide you in the right direction. This is a great place to get adventurous and try something that you’ve never even heard of before, like Wiener Melange, a cappuccino-like coffee made with mild coffee, steamed milk, and foam. You’ll probably be tempted to get a dessert, too, and we say go for it and take your pick from the wide range of delicious desserts, like the brownie, the apple pie, or the sacher torte (Austrian chocolate cake). Remember to take a look at their tea menu as well, which offers interesting flavors, like Mohr Red (made with strawberry, raspberry, blackberry, and cloves) and Mohr Blossom (made with rose petals, vanilla, orange, and jasmine).

The other hot spot in Karaköy is Ops Café, which recently opened in February. Ops is owned and managed by a retired captain, which explains the elements of nautical décor and sailor’s knots in the venue. Much smaller in size than the neighboring Julius Meinl, Ops Café is a similarly cozy venue, with a limited menu (featuring few salads, pastas, sandwiches, and wraps).

Decorated much like a lounge area, with its center featuring an inviting couch and a coffee table, it’s the details that make Ops Café special, like the succulent plants that adorn each table, the small bookcase by the couch, and the rope ladder hung to the ceiling with a hook. You’ll also see artworks adorning the walls. We suggest you take a good look (and ask for the price if you like what you see) because they’re not the permanent décor but a short-term exhibition of works by creatively inclined, passionate people.

Many frequent Ops Café for its breakfast platter, which comes with a variety of cheese, dried meat, olives, and honey, and that’s why the venue is always crowded on weekends. Ops works on a first-come first-serve basis, so if you want to start your Sunday with a breakfast at Ops, go as early as you can to secure a spot.

Julius Meinl/Karabatak Karaköy, Kemankeş Karamustafa Paşa Mahallesi, Ali Kaptan Sokak No. 7, Karaköy; P: (0212) 243 63 93

Ops Café, Mumhane Caddesi Nimet Han 45 B, Karaköy; P: (0212) 245 02 88

At KronotRop, the beans are ground the moment that the coffee is ordered by the customer, meaning that everything served is made-to-order and thus presented as fresh as possible. Other coffee shops let ground coffee sit around for days, not taking into consideration the fact that about ten minutes after a bag of ground coffee is opened, it begins to go bad. The other factor, the quality of the actual bean, takes the form of single origin coffee, that, like specific vineyards for wine, refer to a single geographical location where the bean is harvested and exported. Krontrop’s single origin coffee varieties range from such titles as “Ethiopia Konga Peaberry Natural” to “Sumatra Takengon Gayon Mountains Double Picked Fully Washed” among many others.

KronotRop is the first and only micro-roaster in Istanbul, decked-out in award-winning Nuova Simonella espresso coffee machines and a chalkboard menu that offers an array of options, most notably the red eye, which is a shot of espresso followed by a cup of filtered coffee. Once you drink the coffee made lovingly by the dedicated hands of Gülabioğlu himself, there is a serious risk that you will never go back to regular coffee again.

KronotRop, Kuloğlu Mahallesi Yeniçarşı Caddesi No. 5/B, Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 249 92 71

Lentil and Goat's Cheese Salad at House Cafe: Now that spring is here, it's all the more enjoyable to lunch at the House Cafe branch in Ortaköy. Their lentil and goat's cheese salad, topped with a small tower of greens, is a delicious,healthful option. Salhane Sokak No. 1, Ortaköy; P: (0212) 227 26 99

Çingene and Pirpirim Salad at ZerafEt:Some of the greatest things are found in the most unlikely places, like flavorful salads at a kebab restaurant. ZerafEt is one of the best kebab restaurants in Istanbul (it made it to our Editor’s Choice list in March), and, in addition to a range of delicious meat dishes (click here to read about them all), their menu includes a range of salads, like our favorite çingene salatası(which literally means gypsy salad). It is made with a mix of 14 different greens (that change seasonally), and, on our visit, included rocket,pirpirim(wild purslane), basil, cucumber, beetroot, pomegranate seeds, green onions, lolorosso, topped with virgin olive oil,nar ekşisi, and lemon. The runner up was the gloriousAntep pirpirim salatası, made with fresh purslane, fresh onions, cucumber, green olives, tomato, sumac, flaked red pepper, oregano, dry mint, and topped with virgin olive oil andnar ekşisi.Adnan Saygun Caddesi Leylah Apartmanı No.1 14/B, Ulus; P: (0212) 352 60 75

GBK Salad at GBK: Another unlikely find was the GBK Salad at GBK, one of Istanbul’s best burger joints. Made with mixed greens, fresh onions, cherry tomatoes, pine nuts, and avocado, this delicious salad can almost be considered a substitute for their juicy burgers.Kanyon Shopping Mall, Büyükdere Caddesi No. 185, Levent; P: (0212) 353 03 23

Warm potato salad with sprouted lentils at Journey:Located in the heart of Cihangir,Journeyis the meeting spot of Istanbul’s artists and hipsters. You’ll find a range of delicious dishes here, one of which is a very rare salad. The energizingçimlendirilmiş mercimekli ılık patates salatasıis made with sprouted lentils, rocket, cress, fresh coriander, and potatoes. Theirrokalı pancar salatası, made with rocket, beetroot, goat’s cheese, cranberries, and walnuts (with a sauce of your choice), is also a great choice.Akarsu Caddesi No.21/A, Cihangir; P: (0212) 244 89 89

Wheat and sea bass salad at Numnum:One of the great things about Numnum is its comprehensive menu. Here, you’ll get a range of salad options as well, 10 to be exact. The best we’ve had so far is the taze otlu buğday & ızgara levrek salatası, made with wheat, grilled sea bass, grilled vegetables, tomatoes, and greens, topped with vinaigrette sauce and served with rye crisps.Kanyon Shopping Mall, Büyükdere Caddesi No. 185, Levent; P: (0212) 353 07 08

Purslane and Fresh spices salads at Backyard: Whether you’re sitting outside by the garden or enjoying the cozy interior, Backyard is a great spot for lunch. Their semizotu ve şeftali salad, made with Backyard-grown purslane, grilled peaches, and sweet lor peyniri (soft, ricotta-likecheese) from the Aegean city of Çeşme, sprinkled with pomegranate molasses and olive oil is a delicious salad. Another very green and tasty salad is the taze baharat salatası, made with baby spinach, rocket, parsley, dill, thyme, and oven-fried almonds, sprinkled with olive oil and lemon. Bebeköy Sokak No. 1, Etiler; P: (0212) 287 15 00

Tomato Salad at Balıkçı Kahraman:This simple but delicious salad isBalıkçı Kahraman’s specialty. They won’t get into too much detail, but the main ingredients are organic tomatoes, high-quality olive oil, and vinegar. Perfectaccompaniment to grilled fish.Iskele Caddesi No. 15, Rumeli Kavağı; P: (0212) 242 64 47

This is just the type of place where you could easily take visiting guests for a kebab experience that will impress. Indeed, Okka has the menu of a traditional kebab house but with a stylish and sleek décor that is not usually associated with such venues. They even have a resident belly dancer, but Okka’s version is in fact a 3D hologram image reflected in the center of the room, while the marble bar and turquoise tiled walls add to the swank décor.

When it comes to the menu, there is a relatively small meze selection, but they were all very tasty and well done. There are also a couple of different items for those who want to try something unique, like the black eyed peas served with a tahini and mustard sauce, or the julienned celery root served with yogurt sauce. These are all served with delicious freshly baked puffy pide bread.

The menu also offers a number of warm appetizers including grilled Halloumi cheese, steamed pastırma served in parchment paper and mini lahmacun (Turkish flat bread topped with mince, tomato sauce and spices). However, if you would prefer to not fill up before the grilled meat dishes, there are number of excellent salads such as the “Toros” salad of various chopped greens and herbs served with a pomegranate dressing, and çölelekand roka salad in which roka and farmer’s cheese is served on a bed of ribbon thin zucchinis.

Of course the headline attractions are the kebabs, with a wide variety on offer. Along with many classics such as Adana and Urfa kepap, there is also the house specialty of friend semolina stuffed with minced lamb. There are also several chicken options, such as the tavuk şiş (grilled chicken) in which the chicken is marinated, resulting in a juicy and tender kebab served with paper think lavaşbread and grilled tomato and green pepper.

To accompany your meal you can chose from the wine list which is exclusively Turkish, dominated by major local producers, or you can opt to try one of the many rakıs on offer. In fact, Okka offers the unique Self Pour Rakı service which allows you to sample from a range of rakıs without committing to buying the whole bottle, for you only pay for how many servings you consume.

For dessert, the carrot and pistachio baklava comes recommended, as does the rose flavored crème brûlée. For those who want a slightly lighter finish to their meal, the dessert menu also includes date ice cream, Malatya apricot sorbet and tahini helva ice cream, which was divine. More like a full desert, with chunks of helva and a perfect flavor that was not too sweet, this ice cream alone is reason enough for repeat visits.W Hotel Istanbul Süleyman Seba Caddesi 22, Akaretler Beşiktaş; P: (0212) 381 21 89

Grilled Fish

The ubiquitous waterfront views that decorate the Istanbul experience are also the inspiration behind fresh fish served in the simplest manner. Grilled, with an accompanying lemon and leafy greens (most often arugula), fish is a variant and delicious option.

Vegetables (Cold)

Vegetables cooked with olive oil and served cold are one of the most popular options in the Turkish kitchen and sometimes constitute as a whole meal rather than just an appetizer, especially in the warmer months. Cold vegetable dishes make use of bakla (horse bean), pırasa (leek), yer elması (sunchoke), barbunya (kidney bean), kereviz (celery), and enginar (artichoke).

Vegetables (Hot)

Other vegetables are cooked and served hot, sometimes accompanied by yoghurt. The best way to cook these vegetables is in a pressure cooker to make sure that the vitamins and minerals of the vegetable are not lost. The four most common dishes in this category are kurufasulye (white beans), taze fasulye (string beans), bezelye (peas)semizotu (purslane), and ıspanak (spinach), kabak kalyesi (squash cooked with tomatoes, onions and dill).

Yoghurt

Yoghurt sometimes appears as a kind of universal sauce for a lot of dishes, whether meat or vegetable. However yoghurt is also served as a drink, appropriate with a bit of salt and served cold in the summer months (ayran).

Bulgur and Lentils

Bulgur (cracked wheat) is healthy alternative to rice and can be complemented with various vegetables such as lentil or spinach to make an all around delicious meal. Lentils are a big part of Turkish cooking displayed in various forms from mercimek çorbası (red lentil soup) or mercimek yemeği (green lentil soup) to mercimek köftesi (lentil balls).

Musafir Indian Restaurant: The son of an Indian father and a Pakistani mother, İram Rana is an Indian-cuisine aficionado with such great Turkish language skills that you could easily mistake him for a native. He is the owner of Musafir, one of Istanbul’s best Indian restaurants located right by Taksim Square. The menu at this casual eatery includes all-time favorite Indian dishes, like samosas, raitas, chicken tikka, butter chicken, lamb rogan josh, and more. They also have nearly 10 varieties of bread to satisfy all your naan cravings. Keep in mind that Musafir gets quite full for dinner, so plan ahead and make reservations before going. Recep Paşa Caddesi No. 7 C Talimhane, Taksim; P: (0212) 235 27 41

Taj Mahal:Located by the stairs that connect Tünel to Şişhane, Taj Mahal is one of Istanbul’s few Indian restaurants with a great location and good food. Prepared by the Pakistani chef Zia Mehmood, you’ll find all your favorite Indian dishes here, from the samosa to the pakora from the tikka masala to tarka dhal. The menu offers a wide selection of vegetarian and meat dishes, such as Kashmiri lamb chops (chops boiled in milk and then fried with spices), crowd-pleasing dahls, curries, and rice. If you’re a meat fan, we highly recommend that you try the Lamb Korma.Nergis Sokak No. 4A, Asmalımescit; P: (0212) 293 66 00

Dubb:Looking over at an imposing view of the Haghia Sophia while eating excellent Indian food? Only possible at theDubb, the five-storied Indian restaurant that boasts a lovely terrace over the Old City and a soothing garden below. Prepared by Head Chef Vinod Kumar Chouhan and his team, Dubb’s menu specializes in Northern Indian cuisine, and includes soups and salads, curry dishes (vegetarian as well as meat and chicken), a variety of Tandoori dishes, delicious naan breads, and desserts.Incili Çavuş Sokak No. 10, Sultanahmet; P: (0212) 513 73 08

While Istanbul’s culinary scene has developed in leaps and bounds over recent years, the opening of a new ethnic restaurant is still considerable cause for excitement, with Istanbul residents always keen for new cuisine from other cultures. So when I heard that the reopened Divan Hotel in Elmadağ would include a Japanese restaurant with an authentic menu, my interest was piqued, and I was certainly not disappointed.

Entering the restaurant, you immediately notice the calm and minimal atmosphere created by traditional décor in tones of cream and grey, with colorful accents. There is usually soft reed music playing, which adds to the traditional atmosphere. The service at Maromi is excellent, with the wait staff all very attentive and welltrained, and able to properly answer any questions you may have about the menu, and are also helpful in terms of offering substitutions. As you inspect the menu, you will be given refreshing hot towels scented with jasmine, which makes for a lovely start to your meal.

The head chef here is the Japanese classically trained Kenji Kume, who previously worked with Divan at their Hai!Sushi restaurant, while one of the sous chefs has worked at Nobu in New York. The Maromi menu consists of traditional Japanese dishes rather than the American-style fusion dishes many of us are familiar with. There is a selection of hot and cold appetizers, as well as soups and tempura dishes. For main courses, there are a limited number of meat dishes, as well as a sushi menu, bento boxes, and three different traditional multi-course kaiseki tasting menus available.

I started my meal with a bowl of miso soup, a simple dish that is generally a good test of a restaurant’s kitchen. Maromi’s miso was delicious and flavorful, with lots of layers of subtle flavors, thanks to the tasty dashi stock, and just the right amount of seaweed and tofu. Next we shared a favorite of mine, agedashi tofu, which is deep-fried tofu served in a sauce. For this dish, squares of tofu are thinly battered and deep fried, then served in a dashi (fish stock) broth and topped with grated daikon radish, thinly sliced green onion, and bonito flakes. The agedashi tofu was served with a small tea candle under the dish to keep it warm, and the flavors were balanced perfectly – the batter had just the right level of stretchiness, while the broth was rich and tasty.

As in traditional Japanese restaurants, a great deal of attention is paid to the presentation of the dishes, which are all served on beautiful plates and arranged just so. For my main meal, I selected one of the bento box meals, which offered a variety of small dishes. These included tempura vegetables and prawns, and a hearty tuna croquette served with a nice sauce. Another hot item was a fried salmon croquette with boiled egg and root vegetables, served in a clear broth. There was also a pickled cabbage side dish which I expected to be a bit like Korean kimchi, but in fact the flavors were much softer and sweeter, making this great for cleansing your palette between dishes.

While all the small hot dishes were enjoyable, the highlight was certainly the sushi and maki, which was very fresh and tender, with great, subtle flavors. My companion had several maki rolls, which were all equally tasty. One with barbequed eel and cucumbers was creamy and literally melted in the mouth, while the pickled vegetables and salmon skin rolls also packed a big flavor punch.

To end our meal, we had real green-tea ice cream served with a side sauce of red bean paste. For those who are not familiar with Japanese desserts this may sound a bit odd, but trust me — it is really delicious. Maromi’s version had just the right texture, and the slight graininess that you taste when it is made with real green tea.

Maromi offers an excellent dining experience, with high-quality food in a low-key and pleasant atmosphere. It is a wonderful addition to Istanbul’s culinary scene, and well worth repeated visits.Divan Hotel, Askerocağı Caddesi No.1 Şişli, Elmadağ; P: (0212) 315 55 00

This year, the festival will be held at the following cinemas, museums and cultural centers: Atlas Cinema, AFM Fitaş, Beyoğlu Cinema, Citylife, Rexx Cinema in Kadıköy, the Pera Museum, Salon IKSV, and Akbank Sanat. Last week, we wrote about the festival at length, letting you in on the best films in each cateogory of the festival. Now, here is a list of restaurants to stop by for lunch or dinner before or after savoring a delightful festival film.

Around İstiklal Caddesi

Scrumptious vegetarian food at Zencefil:Zencefil is one of Istanbul’s most established vegetarian restaurants, featuring a menu filled with many wholesome dishes including salads, quiches, and pies made with fresh, seasonal ingredients. Head here for lunch or dinner, and definitely try one of our recommended dishes that include mücver(vegetable fritter or pancakes), beans with tarragon, eggplant with goat’s cheese, and green Lasagna. For a full review of Zencefil,click here. (Note: Take the first right after the French Consulate building on İstiklal Caddesi, then take the first left. You'll see the pretty green sign for Zencefil on your right.) Kurabiye Sokak No. 8, Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 243 82 34

Circassian dishes at Fıccın:Located right across the Saint Antoine Catholic Church, Fıccın is a great lunch spot and one of the few Istanbul restaurants serving Circassian dishes. In this simple and cozy eatery, you’ll find many dishes available at most Turkish restaurants with a few Circassian specialties thrown in the mix, like çerkez tavuğu (a creamy dish made with shredded chicken, puréed walnuts, and garlic) and the Circassian version ofmantı (stuffed with either meat or potatoes). İstiklal Caddesi Kallavi Sokak, Beyoğlu; P:(0212) 293 37 86

International fare at TagCafe & Bistro:Located right next to Galeri Arter, Tag Cafe & Bistro is a small and cozy restaurant that offers weekly menues prepared with the freshest seasonal ingredients. A great spot for lunch or dinner, here you might find yourself eating chili con carne (an exquisite meat dish served with rice), tagliatelle, teriyaki chicken, classic zeytinyağlı dishes, or burritos. İstiklal Caddesi Postacılar Sokak No.1/A, Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 243 68 42

Indian at Govinda:A good option for lunch, Govinda is one of the few Indian-inspired restaurants in the city, offering a menu filled with fried food, such as the pakora (fried battered vegetables) and samosas (fried vegetable-stuffed pastries). You’ll also find un-fried meals, salads, and soups. The must-have beverage is the lassi—a fragrant yogurt and fruit concoction. K.M. Çelebi Mahallesi İpek Sokak No.15, Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 252 40 15

Burger and fries at Dükkan Burger: Dükkan Burger is a perfect spot for indulging in a classic burger and fries during lunch. Besides the classics, you’ll find a few inventive burgers but nothing too overwhelming. Their patties have intense beef flavor, are cooked to order (although they prefer serving it medium), and are served on toasted sesame buns with lettuce, tomato, and onions. It’s simple, straightforward, and they know just how to serve a good burger! The lip-smacking fries, seasoned with salt and ground black pepper, served in paper bags are oh so inviting, too! Istiklal Caddesi No.261, Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 252 91 91

Chicken wings and beer at Bi buçuk:Bi Buçuk is a local favorite for enjoying a night with a bucket of wings, a bowl of French fries, and beer. The menu does offer a variety of other equally guilty pleasures like onion rings, mozzarella sticks, and steak. Süslü Saksı Sokak No. 14-18, Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 244 70 10

Around Pera/Şişhane

Italian food at Da Vittorio:Da Vittorio is a cozy and authentic Italian restaurant located in Tünel. Candles on each table, little flowers, black and white prints on the walls create a pleasant atmosphere and makes it an ideal spot for a romantic dinner. Meşrutiyet Caddesi No.70, Ansen Suites, Tünel; P: (0212) 245 88 17

Pizza at Miss Pizza:One of the most popular pizzerias in Istanbul, Miss Pizza is a warm and cozy eatery, perfect for lunch or dinner, offering authentic Italian pizza with a variety of gourmet toppings. Recommended dishes include Pizza Crudo with smoked bacon and arugula, and the Pizza Pesto with zucchini and ricotta cheese on a pesto sauce base. Meşrutiyet Caddesi No. 86, Şişhane; P: (0212) 251 32 34

Mediterranean cuisine at Mikla:Located on the rooftop of the Marmara Pera Hotel, Mikla is a chic and sophisticated restaurant with a fantastic view of the Golden Horn. Head to Mikla for dinner, open a bottle of wine, and enjoy an excellent meal overlooking the beautiful city. The Marmara Pera, Meşrutiyet Caddesi 167/185, Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 293 56 56

Turkish and Mediterranean cuisine at Enstitü:Enstitü is the workplace and (skilled) experimentation zone of Istanbul Culinary Institute’s third-year students. Here, the menu changes daily and includes a variety of appetizers, main courses, and desserts. Some highlights of previous menus include mücver (a vegetable fritter usually prepared with zucchini) made with pumpkin; lamb stew with dried fruits, almonds, and sumac; and köfte (meatballs) with pita bread, yogurt, and tomato sauce. Meşrutiyet Caddesi No. 59, Tepebaşı; P: (0212) 251 22 14

Around Nişantaşı

Turkish food at Hünkar:Hünkar is an upscale version of a classic tradesman’s restaurant (esnaf lokantası) that is a great choice for lunch or dinner. Here, you’ll find a range of soups, mezes, olive oil dishes, meat dishes, and seasonal fish. They’ve also recently created a tasting menu that is filled with must-try dishes like grilled meatballs (with rice and grilled tomato and pepper), stewed watercress, and hünkar beğendi (smoked eggplant puree topped with lamb or beef). Mim Kemal Öke Caddesi No. 21, Nişantaşı; P: (0212) 225 46 65

International fare at Delicatessen:A hip joint at the heart of Nişantaşı, Delicatessen offers dozens of choices from steak burger to fresh fish, and most dishes come with scrumptious sides. Enjoy lunch or dinner with the trendy Nişantaşı crowd. Mim Kemal Öke Caddesi No.19/1, Nişantaşı; P: (0212) 225 06 04

Traditional Turkish food at Borsa:Located within the Lütfi Kırdar Convention Center,Borsa is an established restaurant dedicated to traditionalTurkish cuisine. Borsa has been a classic since 1927, and is an ideal spot for lunch or dinner. Lütfi Kırdar Convention Center, Gümüş Caddesi No.4, Harbiye; P: (0212) 232 42 01

Turkish and International dishes at Park Şamdan:A chic spot for lunch or dinner, Park Şamdanis an established fine-dining restaurant that serves Turkish and international dishes. Theirpaça çorbası(leg of lamb soup), risottolu dana kaburga(beef rib with risotto),keşkül(almond-based milk pudding), andkaymaklı ekmek kadayıfı(crumpets with syrup and clotted cream) come highly recommended. Mim Kemal Öke Caddesi No. 18/1, Nişantaşı; P: (0212) 225 07 10

French food at Nişantaşı Brasserie:Located on the trendiest crossroad in Nişantaşı, Nişantaşı Brasserie is the meeting point for Istanbul’s glitterati. The menu is very French, with salmon, beef carpaccio, and great summer desserts, as well as a variety of European dishes. Definitely a great spot for lunch, especially if people-watching is one of your favorite activities. Abdi İpekçi Caddesi No. 23/1, Nişantaşı; P: (0212) 343 04 43

Around Kadıköy

Eclectic dishes from the Middle East at Çiya: Çiya is a casual lunch spot that offers delicacies from Syria, Georgia, southern Iran, and all parts of Turkey. Expect to find interesting versions of favorite staple dishes, for example stuffed artichoke rather than the usual stuffed pepper, grilled loquats filled with rice and minced meat mixtures, or caramelized onions atop the classic dolma.Güneşli Bahçesi Sokak No. 43, Kadıköy; P: (0216) 330 31 90

Ottoman cuisine at Güler Osmanlı Mutfağı: Güler Osmanlı Mutfağı is a humble tradesman’s restaurant that serves as a good choice for lunch, offering selections from Ottoman cuisine. Some favorites include hünkâr beğendi (smoked eggplant puree topped with lamb or beef), beğendili köfte (meatballs served on a bed of eggplant puree), and galaçoş (lentil, onion, and yogurt dish). Make sure to try their dessert specialties - the Osmanlı Tatlısı (prepared with shredded wheat, walnuts, and yogurt) and Padişah Tatlısı (prepared with semolina halvah and cream). Hasanpaşa Kurbağalıdere No. 74/A, Kadıköy; P: (0216) 348 22 45

Ottoman cuisine at Yanyalı Fehmi Lokantası:Yanyalı Fehmi is another humble tradesman’s restaurant in Kadıköy, offering an extensive menu with over 15 types of soup, nearly 10 varieties of rice dishes, kebabs, grills, vegetarian dishes, olive oil dishes, fish, and dessert. The specialty of the house is Yanyan Köftesi –meatballs prepared with beef & lamb, eggplant, tomatoes, hazelnut, and spices. Yağlıkçı Ismail Sokak No. 1, Kadıköy; P: (0216) 336 33 33

Located on a downward sloping street behind the opulent Galatasaray High School in Beyoğlu, Münferit rises out of the unevenly cobblestoned street with a fully gray art-deco-like demeanor. As much as the exterior is reminiscient of an old locomotive or Fritz Lang’s Metropolis, the interior is New York’s Lower East Side with flickering candles illuminating a small and cozy bar on the top floor and a romantically narrow bottom floor with white table cloths and floor to ceiling glass cabinets displaying bottles of Beylerbeyi Rakı. The temporary 30-something inhabitants that dine downstairs or sip away on cocktails upstairs either display a spectrum of international accents tracing their English sentences or are the kind of fur-coat-vest tight-skinny-jeans-wearing Turkish youth that one usually doesn’t see in daylight hours.

We arrived at 8pm and chose to begin the evening with the starter composed of feta cheese, porcini mushrooms, and truffle oil and after some struggle with the paper in which it was cocooned, the slightly salty yet inherently smooth cheese made a good first impression. The highlight of the evening, however, was the squid ink couscous and calamari dish, a plate of black glistening pearls of couscous with fresh bits of fried calamari lying seductively curled on top, the only disappointing aspect being that I had to share it with the friend I was dining with. The main course of lamb shank accompanied by eggplant rice was also a worthy candidate because of its tender ways with a hint of eggplant flavor in the rice. Even though we were surrounded by Rakı bottles we chose to open a wine of Graffigna Malbec, a heavy red wine, the first sip of which always seems to untangle the emotional knots acquired in daily life. The warmth of the red wine was only enhanced further by Çikolatalı Lokma(Turkish donut with chocolate), giving way to a small palatal implosion of melted dark chocolate hidden in the soft exterior of the lokma.

Closed on Sundays, the restaurant’s kitchen is open until 11:30pm, at which point the entire space turns into a bar that’s open until 2am. The sound of the subtle lounge and chillout music from dinner time increases in volume and at times turns into rock to the joy of the slightly inebriated but equally stylish crowd. Make sure to call in advance for that reservation.

Münferit, Yeni Çarşı Caddesi No. 1; P: (0212) 252 50 67

What probably will strike you about this cafe to begin with are the toys and design objects spread around the cafe. There are cute pillows, toys, board games on sale here.But it’s not just about shopping at Mavra - it’s also about the food. Mavra’s menu is quite diverse and interesting, featuring Turkish, Mexican, and Italian specialties. You’ll find a long list of breakfast options that are strictly Turkish (except for the muesli) and features the classic platter varieties that include cheese, olives, honey, kaymak (Turkish clotted cream), and eggs. Those who are in for a quick bite can pick something from the sandwiches or the finger food, and those in for more of a sit-down lunch will find something that will satisfy their hunger.

On a recent visit, we had what’s called Kapalı Zarf, which literally means closed envelope, and stands for a very tasty tortilla. You can get it with vegetables or with chicken. We had the one with chicken and it did really look like a closed triangular envelope filled with spices, sautéed vegetables, melted cheddar cheese, and chicken. For those looking for something light, there is also a good salad selection – with tuna, chicken, cheese, wheat, or strictly greens.

Our second dish was from the pasta section and was called Mütevazi, which literally means humble. And it’s quite the right word to describe the dish – it’s a spaghetti dish made with tomatoes, olives, cheese, and basil. Humble, simple, and simply delicious. The mains are meat focused, featuring two kinds of meatballs, burger, a hard-to-fing pork sausage, and tacos (simply referred to as Meksikalı, which means Mexican). This is a spicy dish, so beware (especially of the Jalapenos). The tacos are filled with black beans and sautéed minced meat – you could say that it’s a classic chili con carne served in a crispy open sandwich.

We didn’t get to try dessert, but they do have a few on the menu. Whether for tea, coffee, a quick bite, or a relatively longer lunch, Mavra is a great spot to stop by when in Galata.

Mavra, Serdar-ı Ekrem Caddesi No. 31/A, Galata; P: (0212) 252 74 88

Auf’s kitchen is in the hands of the ladies who create the delicacies at Backyard - Zeynep Moroğlu and Esra Muslu. Here, they’ve put together a healthy lunch menu and an open-buffet right by the window that attracts the attention of passers-by on Meşrutiyet Caddesi. Zeynep’s delicious desserts adorn the counter on one side, pulling in all the I-can’t-resist-dessert kind of people, while the other side of the counter filled with Esra’s creations pulls in anyone looking for a healthy, delicious lunch.

The open-buffet, which offers a variety of dishes that changes based on the season, included green lentil salad, beetroot salad, roasted pumpkin, mücver (vegetable patty), pickles, roast beef, roasted root vegetables, as well as cupcakes, brownies, irmik helvası (semolina halvah), muffins, kabak tatlısı (pumpkin dessert), and much more mouthwatering dishes and desserts.

In addition to the open-buffet, there is also a set lunch menu, which includes sandwiches (with vegetables, smoked entrecote, and smoked turkey), and mains like stuffed cabbage with minced meat, grilled meatballs with pistachio, lamb shank with eggplant purée, ravioli, steamed Turkmen-style mantı (dumpling), and stuffed eggplant.

On a recent visit, we had the beetroot salad (a mix of greens, beetroot, parmesan, grilled zucchini and carrots, and pine nuts), which was a light and tasty dish to start with. The grilled meatballs, served with plain rice, were cooked just right, and had a nice sweet flavor to them. We also had a serving of roasted pumpkin as well as a slice of delicious mushroom pie.

Overall, Auf offers a nice, calm, sincere atmosphere for a healthy and quick lunch. It’s also a nice option for those who need a tête-à-tête over a cup of tea and a slice of tasty dessert. So we suggest you put Auf on your radar, and stop by next time you’re in Pera.

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The Creators of the Organic Backyard: Zeynep Moroğlu and Esra Muslu; by Talya Arditi

In Turkey, the most popular and widely-used legumes are fava beans, kidney beans, black-eyes peas, chickpeas, and lentils. Legumes play a significant role in the Turkish diet, and are found in a variety of shapes, sizes, and forms in most Istanbul eateries. They are cooked with meat or without meat, prepared as salads, served as zeytinyağlı (olive oil) dishes, turned into soups, made into drinks and even desserts,and found in meze platters.

For legume-lovers in Istanbul, here is a list of best legume dishes around town:

Black-eyed pea salad at Zerafet: A mix of black-eyed peas, fresh onions, cucumber, and capsicum,börülce salatasıis only one of the delicious salads atZerafEt. While you’re there, definitely order a serving ofpastırmalı humus(hummus with Turkish spicy sausage). Even though this dish is notorious for being overwhelmingly oily and heavy, it somehow feels deceptively light at ZerafEt. (Click hereto read a full review of ZerafEt.)

Piyaz at Ali Baba Köftecisi: This salad is made with white kidney beans, onions, tomatoes. You can sprinkle it with olive oil, vinegar, and lemon juice and top it with oregano and chili flakes for the ultimate experience. Of course, it is best enjoyed with a serving of Ali Baba’s famous meatballs.

Yuvalama Çorbası at Develi: Yuvalama çorbası is made with rice, meat, chickpeas, yogurt, onion, and mint, and is a great start to a kebab dinner at Develi.

Kuru fasulye at Fasuli: Fasuli is a tradesman’s restaurant in Karaköy specializing in dishes from the Eastern Black Sea region. Their signature dish iskuru fasulye & pilav(white kidney beans and rice).

Warm potato salad with sprouted lentils at Journey:This warm potato salad with sprouted lentils (referred to as çimlendirilmiş mercimekli ılık patates salatası on the menu) at Journey is very tasty but more importantly energizing. Plus you get to be surrounded by Cihangir’s hipsters while you eat it. (Click here for a full review of Journey.)

Fava atHünkar:Fava is a specialty of Hünkar and is definitely a must-try for those who love fava beans. It must be noted that theirmercimek köftesi(lentil balls) also top the list of must-try legume dishes. Theiraşure (a pudding made primarily with chickpeas, kidney beans, rice, and sugar, then topped with walnuts, pistachios, pomegranate, almonds, and cinnamon) is a legume-based dessert that is also top notch.

Kuru fasulye at Bizce Kuru: You'll find classickuru fasulye(kidney beans) cooked to perfection at Bizce Kuru. Enjoy it with a serving of buttery rice, very good thick yogurt, and peasant bread.

Lentil soup at Park Şamdan or Şans: Both Park Şamdan and Şans make a terrific lentil soup.

Spicy sausage (with pistachios) and hummus at müzedechanga: Müzedechanga's fıstıklı Changa sucuk ve humus is a modern take on a traditional dish. The sausage is juicy on the inside and crispy on the outside, and the hummus is just perfection. (Click here for a full review of müzedechanga.)

Bomba fasulye at Kıyı: Unlike the typical pilaki you find at most fish restaurants, bomba fasulyeat Kıyı is made with large kidney beans, and cooked with tomato paste and onions in a casserole. Yum!

Black-eyed pea salad at 9 Ece Aksoy: 9 Ece Aksoy’s hands-on owner and chef Ece uses only local and seasonal ingredients, and puts out a deliciousbörülce salatası(black-eyed pea salad) served on a bed of inviting greens.

Mung bean salad at Nar Lokanta:Maş piyazı at Nar Lokantais a light and simple dish of mung beans with fresh onions and herbs, dressed with a pomegranate sauce that gives it a wonderful tangy flavor.

Chana Masala at Musafir: Chana Masala is a simply delicious chickpea curry best enjoyed at Musafir.

Kuru fasulye at Çanak: Cooked over a barbeque for over 5 hours, the kuru fasulye at Çanak comes all the way from the Eastern city of Erzurum. It is served plain, with beef, or with pastırma (Turkish cured beef). Make sure to order a serving of rice and pickles., too.

Boza at Vefa Bozacısı: Traditionally sold on chilly winter evenings in on the streets,bozais a creamy and slightly sweet yet acidic drink made from fermented wheat. It is best enjoyed with a dusting of cinnamon on top atVefa Bozacısı.

For recipes of delicious legume dishes, order your copy ofIstanbul Contemporary Cuisine by Hande Bozdoğan and Lale Apa.

Indeed, Ottoman cuisine is all the rage in Istanbul’s culinary scene these days. Turks have been gripped with Ottomania, with a growing interest in all things related to the Ottoman Empire’s history and culture. Consequently, many are starting to rediscover Turkey’s multi-ethnic heritage, particularly when it comes to food. The rich ethnic tapestry of the Ottoman Empire resulted in a cuisine with many diverse influences and layers of flavors. This is largely due to the fact that, at its peak, the Ottoman Empire covered vast territories and comprised many ethnic groups. Along with Greeks, Armenians, Kurds, and Jews, there were also numerous lesser-known minority groups such as the Circassians, Laz, Turkmen, Assyrians, and many more.

While there are now many high-end restaurants, such as Divan’s Lokanta, that specialize in Ottoman court cuisine, the city is also dotted with many smaller, lower-profile eateries serving the food of Turkey’s many minority groups. Some of these restaurants are family-run, modest affairs that cater to these minority communities, while others have managed to win a more mainstream following. We decided to explore what Istanbul has to offer when it comes to these more obscure cuisines, or what we like to call “Empire Ethnic” cuisine.

Fıccın

Sıdıka is truly one of those fabled places that you could pass by a dozen times without noticing. Located on a somewhat colorless stretch of Şair Nedim Caddesi (midway between the fancy row houses of Akaretler and the fancy Ihlamur Kasrı of Dikilitaş), the restaurant, run by eponymous owner Sıdıka Hanım, is an unexpected delight in an unexpected location.

The restaurant is small (seating approximately 40 people) with a friendly, intimate atmosphere. The day’s menu is written on a chalkboard in front, and Sıdıka Hanım frequently makes the rounds of her customers, chatting with them and providing information about what is on the menu. Sıdıka is normally only open for dinner, except for Fridays, when it also serves lunch.

It would be a crime to come to Sıdıka only to order köfte, as the restaurant is known for the quality and variety of the seafood and meze which take up most of its menu. These two categories overlap to a great extent, with cold meze like hardal soslu uskumru (mackerel in mustard sauce), levrek marine (marinated sea bass), and tarama (fish roe salad), as well as hot seafood appetizers like kalamar tava (fried calamari), tereyağda karides (shrimps in butter), and ahtapot ızgara (grilled octopus). The last item is especially recommended. Coming from Cunda Island in the Aegean, the octopus is extremely tender (without the rubbery texture that octopus often has) and tastes faintly of barbecued chicken.

The main fish courses are equally accomplished. In addition to the fish of the day, you can find grilled levrek (sea bass) and çipura (sea bream) on the menu. However, on your first visit, you ought to try Sıdıka’s signature dish, asma yaprağında levrek(sea bass wrapped in grape leaves). While “grape leaves” might call to mind the popular Turkish/Mediterranean meze known as yaprak sarma, here they have a crackly, papery consistency like the dried seaweed used in Japanese cooking – a perfect textural balance to the tender fish meat inside. Sıdıka’s pungent, tomato-flavored fish soup (available on Friday only) is also excellent, and is a great way to whet your appetite before moving on to meze and main courses.

On this note, it should be said that Sıdıka Hanım is extremely conscientious about environmental issues when it comes to fish. A sign prominently displayed on the wall of the restaurant announces that çinekop and sarıkanat (immature bluefish which have not reached spawning age) are not on the menu of this establishment. Sıdıka Hanım is also a devotee of the Slow Food movement; those who are curious to learn more about Slow Food can pick up a book on the subject from the restaurant.

Mention should also be made of a few other meze: a delicious, rich fava bean puree (think fava-hummus) and – even more delicious – Sıdıka’s fıstıklı peynir, a garlicky mixture of pistachio and feta cheese. If you run out of bread with which to scoop it up, you’ll probably start shoveling it away with your fork – it’s that good.

Sıdıka serves over a dozen kinds of red and white wine (available by the bottle or the glass) plus rakı and imported beer. With an atmospheric yet unobtrusive soundtrack of soft jazz music, the restaurant is ideally suited to conversation. The next time you find yourself in Akaretler (or indeed in Beşiktaş), you’re urged to take a stroll up Şair Nedim Caddesi and pay a visit to Sıdıka.

Sıdıka, Şair Nedim Caddesi No.38, Beşiktaş; P:(0212) 259 72 32

The best way to record Turkish history is not through writing but through the palate, as the lush tasting menu at Enstitü in March will prove to foodies interested in learning how the Turkish kitchen started, evolved, and became what it is today.

Prepared by culinary researcher and instructorNevin Halıcı, the tasting menu is categorized into the four distinct periods of Turkish history corresponding with a 4-week long event, held on Thursdays at Enstitü (Istanbul Culinary Institute)’s restaurant. The historical segments and dates included are: the Central Anatolian Era on March 8, the Seljuq Period on March 15, the Ottoman Period on March 22, and last but not least the Republican Era on March 29. All stages of this comprehensive yet individualistically significant menu have been designed to offer an authentic experience of the cuisine enjoyed during that particular segment in Turkish history as well as an overall understanding of the multitudinous nature of the Turkish kitchen.

Details are as follows:

Central Anatolian Era (Before 1040) on March 8:

Turkish people of the Central Anatolian region were nomadic in nature, with limited information about their culture being available. However, early yet limited writing does present that foods appropriate to their lifestyle in the form of sheep and horse meat as well as pastries made from wheat were consumed.

Menu:Koumiss or ayran (yogurt drink); mantı (Turkish ravioli) with yogurt sauce; braised meat browned in its own fat; yogurt; honey halvah.

Seljuq Period (1040-1299) on March 15:

With the availability of more written evidence during this period, the details of some recipes as well as accounts of ziyafets (feasts) gave more light into the types of meals enjoyed during this era. The use of the oven for meat preparation also began during this time as well as the mixture and presentation of sweet sherbets.

Menu:Traditional sherbet called Sirkencübin; tutmaç çorbası (yogurt soup with meat and dough); keşkek (wheat and chicken stew with lettuce); rice with chickpeas served with zerde (saffron and rice dessert); kayısı hoşafı (stewed apricot compote); coffee.

Ottoman period (1299-1923) on March 22:

With a noticeable growth in prosperity, the Ottoman period in Turkish history is one of the richest in terms of culinary tradition. With the availability of the freshest ingredients and the time and resources necessary for experimentation and growth, recipes in this era rose to the utmost heights.

Menu:Rose or tamarind sherbet; düğün çorbası (yogurt soup with lamb); hünkar beğendi (lamb stew with pureed eggplant); kayısı yahni (apricot stew) served with iç pilav (rice with onions, nuts, diced liver, and currant), leek cooked in olive oil; tel kadayıf (shredded dough baked in syrup); coffee.

Republican Era (1923 on) on March 29:

After the opening of Pera Palace and other European-inspired locales, influences from the West took a step forward in the history of Turkish cuisine. Mayonaise and bechamel sauce appeared as well as the promulgation of seafood dishes, along with desserts like chocolate pudding (which used to be referred to as sup anglez).

Menu:Lemon sherbet with cardamom; yogurt soup; prenses börek (phyllo with cheese); kremalı kebap (creamy lamb stew) served with lettuce, carrot, and radish salad; örgülü pilav (rice with chicken and green peas covered with phyllo); celery cooked in olive oil; sup anglez (chocolate pudding); coffee.

Enstitü, Meşrutiyet Caddesi No. 59, Tepebaşı; P: (0212) 251 22 14-15

Redemption, salvation, nirvana or whatever it is that you use to refer to the state of feeling pure joy is, unlike others argue, easily reachable. Just cross the street from the Ulus exit of Akmerkez and at the helm of the Yeni Yol is ZerafEt – the temple where prayers come true in the form of kebabs.

We weren’t aware but we (one vegetarian-prone and two meat-loving members of The Guide Istanbul) were in for a feast at Zerafet – a feast that was first for the eyes then for the stomach.

It all started very innocently with a bowl of soup: the yuvalama çorbası, which is basically yayla çorbası on steroids, is a yogurt-based soup with chickpeas, bits of lamb, tiny gnocchi-like dough balls, and mint. After this light introduction, the army of cold and hot starters made their way onto our table.

My first tasting was the muammara, a definite must-try for anyone remotely aroused by spicy food. Made with walnuts, garlic, red pepper paste, and bread crumbs, this paste is best enjoyed by spreading over the piping hot lavaş-like bread. The only warning necessary is this: make sure that you’ve got one foot near the brakes because you’ll need to restrain yourself if you want to leave space for what is to come.

And what comes after will be just as good as that first feisty plate.

The tabouleh, for instance, is quite special not just because it tasted delicious but also because it’s an uniquely presented feast for the eyes. Comfortably seated within a mussel-shaped lettuce leaf, the salad was topped with hot pink colored pomegranate seeds. Once sprinkled with a generous amount of nar ekşisi (pomegranate molasses), you get a mammoth-sized yum.

In fact, pomegranate seeds and nar ekşisi are the secret ingredients that carry the dishes at ZerafEt to the finish line, especially the salads, which are surprisingly comparable to the meats dishes. There is the glorious Antep pirpirim salatası, made with fresh purslane, fresh onions, cucumber, green olives, tomato, sumac, flaked red pepper, oregano, dry mint, and topped with virgin olive oil and nar ekşisi. Our favorite salad was the çingene salatası (which literally means gypsy salad). It is made with a mix of 14 different greens (that change seasonally), and included rocket, pirpirim (wild purslane), basil, cucumber, beetroot, pomegranate seeds, green onions, lolorosso, topped with virgin olive oil, nar ekşisi, and lemon. Legume lovers can confidently order the börülce salatası, a mix of black-eyed peas, fresh onions, cucumber, and capsicum.

We moved on from inventively fresh salads to classic Turkish legends starting with lahmacun. This Turkish specialty is often referred to as Turkish pizza due to its round shape. This lahmacun, however, doesn’t resemble the typical lahmacun or even the best one you’ve claimed to have so far. The awe-inspiring amount of topping takes over the crust, which literally makes you wonder whether both sides of the dough are covered with minced meat and spices. This ideal mix of crunchiness, softness, and flavor can only be defined as the best lahmacun I’ve ever had. The only trick is to eat it while it’s hot. And the same goes for the pastırmalı humus (hummus with cured beef). Even though this dish is notorious for being overwhelmingly oily and heavy, here it somehow feels deceptively light. The secret is that the butter is sprinkled on before the humus makes its way into the oven, and so it takes on a bread-crumb-like texture. Salivating yet?

We know you are. Now, let’s get into the mains.

We had Ali Nazik, sebzeli kebap, and terbiyeli kuzu şiş, and they were all separately delightful. The Ali Nazik came with a bed of haşhaş kebabı (a kebab style hailing from Urfa) lying innocently on top of a sea of chargrilled eggplant, yogurt, and garlic mix. The sebzeli kebap, which is a specialty of ZerafEt (to be honest, pretty much all we had here tasted like a specialty), is supposed to be eaten wrapped in the soft and hot lavaş bread. All the mains were the I-can’t-help-but-go-for-another-bite kind, but the winner for me was the terbiyeli kuzu şiş simply because of the silky smooth meat. Cutting the meat was like drawing a tulle curtain. Absolute must-have for spicy food lovers!

Although we were quite full by the end of our meal, I for a fact knew that I couldn’t leave ZerafEt without trying katmer. On a separate but important note, the restaurant feels nothing like a typical kebab eatery: the décor is quite modern featuring pink, brown, and white; the venue smells of flowers not meat; lots of sunlight comes through the floor-to-ceiling windows that show off the green garden; and the soft instrumental music just adds that final touch. The wait staff, it must be noted, adds a few stars to this establishment with their knowledge, eagerness to help, and sincerity.

Now, back to the katmer. This mouse-pad sized, square Antep specialty is a heavenly dessert that is made of very thin baklava dough, kaymak (Turkish clotted cream), covered with a generous bed of crumbled pistachios, and served with vanilla ice-cream.

Finishing this meal is like the reading the last pages of a great novel, except that you can revisit it any time you want and my take is that every time will feel like the first.

ZerafEt, Adnan Saygun Caddesi Leylah Apartmanı No.1 14/B, Ulus; P: (0212) 352 60 75

Istanbul’s one and only upscale tradesmen’s restaurant Hünkar introduced a tasting menu in their Nişantaşı branch a few weeks ago for those who want to get introduced to Turkish cuisine. The menu is made up of must-try dishes for tourists who want to familiarize themselves with what Turkish cuisine is about. And with this tasting menu they will learn, if they haven’t done so yet, that Turkish cuisine has a lot more to offer than just meat and kebab.

The Tasting Menu:

Soup

Mix Meze Platter (lentil balls, spinach root, spicy salad, smoked eggplant salad, fava beans, octopus carpaccio)

Pastry Plate (puff pastry, mini Turkish ravioli)

Grilled Meatballs (with rice and grilled tomato and pepper)

Stewed Watercress

Hünkar Beğendi (smoked eggplant puree topped with lamb or beef)

Dessert (semolina helvah, bread dessert, milk pudding with mastic)

Tea & Coffee

The tasting menu starts off with a bowl of soup - yayla çorbası (yogurt-based soup with rice and mint) or mercimek çorbası (lentil soup). On our visit, we had the yayla çorbası, which came with a dollop of yogurt on top and spurts of chickpeas, which added that little extra touch. Even though paça çorbası (leg of lamb soup) is a very Turkish soup, it’s not part of the tasting menu because it’s a bit too adventurous, especially for those who are novices to Turkish cuisine.

Following the soup, the mix meze platter includes a nice variety that is representative of what Turkish cuisine is about. There is an eggplant dish simply because eggplant in Turkey tastes fantastic and any visitor should have the privilege to taste it. The acılı ezme (roughly translated as spicy salad on the tasting menu) is representative of all that is spicy in Turkish cuisine. (Those who are not used to spicy foods should steer clear from this spicy paste!) The spinach root in the platter serves as a very delicious example of all the light and healthy vegetarian dishes in Turkish cuisine. The mercimek köftesi (lentil balls) is a local specialty of the Southeast region and represents the wide variety of regional differences that Turkish cuisine offers. Oh, and it’s also very delicious! The fava beans is a specialty of Hünkar and in fact was chosen number 13 in the list of “25 Great Dishes You Must Have Before you Go” by Papercity Magazine. Last but not least, the octopus carpaccio in the meze platter is a fine example of the delicious seafood that Turkey is famous for.

Carb-lovers will be especially thrilled by the pastry platter that follows the mix meze platter. The highlight of this pastry platter is definitely the mantı (Turkish ravioli) - it is one of the best that you can have in Istanbul, so enjoy it! Once you’re done with the pastry platter and have savored the meatballs, the watercress will serve as the sorbet in gourmet tasting menus - something to clear the palate before the next meat dish is served. Hünkar Beğendi (smoked eggplant puree topped with lamb or beef) that follows is a classic in Turkish cuisine, and is very well done at Hünkar. Finally, the dessert platter comes. You’ll probably be quite full by this time but won’t be able to resist the urge to try these delicious Turkish desserts. The highlight of this platter is the irmik helvası (semolina helvah), which is made slightly differently at Hünkar with the addition of milk and a secret ingredient that turns this dessert into creamy perfection.

So, whether you’re a tourist wanting to become familiar with Turkish cuisine or a local who just wants to eat a variety of really good dishes, we strongly suggest you give the tasting menu at Hünkar a try.

Hünkar, Mim Kemal Öke Caddesi No. 21, Nişantaşı; P: (0212) 225 46 65

The New Italians in Town

Emporio Armani Ristorante: What used to be Armani Café in İstinyePark shopping mall turned into Emporio Armani Ristorante last month. We finally went and tried it last week, and it was an instant winner. The elegantly decorated restaurant has it all: an extensive menu featuring Italian classics, smooth music that’s conducive to enjoying a glass of wine, and an outdoor dining area perfect for the warm days ahead. On a typical day, you may come across businesspeople discussing serious projects over their secondi piatti, and ladies-who-lunch passing along the latest pilates trend over a cup of frothy cappuccino. Emporio Armani Ristorante is definitely a great choice while shopping at İstinyePark but it’s also a great destination whenever you crave scrumptious Italian food. İstinyePark Shopping Mall, Istinye Bayırı Caddesi No. 73, İstinye; P: (0212) 345 61 40

Morro:Morro, located just off İstiklal Caddesi, is a classic Italian restaurant that specializes in pizza. If you’re looking for an alternative to your usual pre-party dinner spot, Morro offers a wide selection of pizzas so there is something for everyone.Kumbaracı Yokuşu No.66, Tünel; P:(0212) 292 25 50

PiPa: PiPa opened up in Nişantaşı at the end of 2011. If you haven’t been there yet, definitely do check it out for the atmosphere – it has quite a unique décor, the diners are the stylish Nişantaşı crowd, and the wait staff is very friendly. But note that the food is overpriced for what it is. Süleyman Nazif Sokak Şebnem Apartmanı No.7/B, Nişantaşı; P: (0212) 225 74 72

Leon Trattoria/Pizzeria:Leon Trattoria/Pizzeria, located behind the Teşvikiye Camii, is a fairly small restaurant that carries an offbeat, low-key ambiance. If you’re looking for a reasonably priced Italian restaurant around Teşvikiye, do check out Leon Trattoria. Their pizzas can be hit or miss.Ahmet Fetgari Sokak No.40/A, Teşvikiye; P: (0212) 233 46 88

The Favorites

Antica Locanda:Antica Locanda is an impeccably-decorated venue offering top-quality Italian food in a warm and friendly setting. Located in a romantic cobble-stone street in Arnavutköy next to the Greek Orthodox Church in a small villa, Antica Locanda’s menu is not extensive, but all that is on offer is scrumptious. Make sure you enjoy your meal or at least post-meal coffee by the beautiful garden. Satış Meydanı No.12, Arnavutköy; P: (0212) 287 97 45

Papermoon:Located very conveniently by the entrance of the Akmerkez shopping mall in Etiler,Papermoonis known for its delicious food, cozy atmosphere, sleek and modern design, and meticulous service. The founding principle of Papermoon is to offer light, flavorful, and fresh Italian dishes with impeccable presentation. The venue boasts a very chic bar, which makes it an ideal spot for after-work drinks. It’s also a very popular spot for business dinners and lunches, as well as family dinners and special occasions.Adnan Saygun Caddesi, Akmerkez Residence Entrance Level, No. 224, Etiler; P: (0212) 282 16 16

Da Vittorio:Da Vittoriois a cozy and authentic Italian restaurant located in Tünel. Candles on each table, little flowers, black and white prints on the walls create a pleasant atmosphere. Certainly an excellent date venue.Meşrutiyet Caddesi No.70, Ansen Suites, Tünel; P: (0212) 245 88 17

Miss Pizza:The Cihangir branch of Miss Pizza is the meeting spot of Istanbul’s hipsters and artists. If you are looking for authentic Italian pizza with a variety of gourmet toppings, look no further. All pizzas are made fresh in the brick oven, with a delicious thin and crispy crust.Havyar Sokak No. 7, Cihangir; P: (0212) 251 32 78

Cipriani: The Istanbul branch of this famous New York restaurant received some bad reviews when it first opened in 2011, but Cipriani quickly pulled itself together, and even made it to TOP 7 Restaurant Hot Spots in The Guide Istanbul’s TOP 7 pocket guide. Levent Mahallesi Büyükdere Caddesi No. 2 The Edition Hotel, Levent; P: (0212) 317 77 87

Aqua:Bring together your love of Italian food with your love of the Bosphorus atAqua Restaurantlocated within Four Seasons Bosphorus. Enjoy Italian specialties while looking over the beautiful Bosphorus from the terrace.Four Seasons Istanbul Hotel at the Bosphorus, Çırağan Caddesi No. 28, Beşiktaş; P: (0212) 381 40 59

Piola: If you’re after true Italian pizza, Piola specializes in a variety of pizzas from the Treviso region (the menu also offers pasta, salads, and delectable desserts). Located within Point Hotel, this colorful restaurant is the second branch of this Treviso-based eatery. After you’re done with your meal, we suggest you go for a hot drink like "Cafe Cornetta" (Italian coffee with grappa). Point Hotel, Yıldız Posta Caddesi No. 29, Esentepe; P: (0212) 337 30 70

After a long renovation process, Emporio Armani Cafe was reincarnated as Emporio Armani Ristorante last month with a simple yet very Italian concept: live well and eat well. And that, in sum, is the experience offered by Emporio Armani Ristorante.

First of all, it’s the decor that catches you off guard – walking into such an elegant atmosphere within a shopping mall is quite surprising. And that’s why, once you enter through the doors of the restaurant, you feel you’re no longer at İstinyePark but at a fancy restaurant in, say, Milan, surrounded by talkative businesspeople, ladies-who-lunch, and anyone who appreciates good taste.

And good taste is the only thing you’ll find on your plate here – you’re in very good hands! The kitchen is under the command of award-winning Turkish and international chefs. Executive Chef Yener Özden is a member of the World Association of Chefs Societies, the winner of more than 40 medals from gastronomic competitions, and one of the representatives of the slow food movement. Sous-Chef Musa Şener is the chief assistant of the Turkish National Culinary Team. The restaurant’s Chef de Cuisine is Cristiano Cameli, who laid the groundwork for the Emporio Armani Ristorante with his expertise in pastas, risottos, and original Italian flavors.

The Özden-Şener-Cameli team aims not to create Turkified versions of Italian dishes, but to offer a truly authentic Italian experience. And that is evident in the first minutes of the experience as the expertly-informed wait staff asks whether we’d like to have still or sparkling water. Molto buono!

The menu, which changes every three months based on seasonal ingredients and the chefs’ inspirations, is a combination of traditional Italian and modern Mediterranean dishes, all made from the freshest, purest, highest quality ingredients. When we had lunch with the restaurant’s manager Mustafa Apak last week, we started off with an Insalata di Gamberetti – prawns deep fried in five grains served with mixed greens in olive oil and lemon sauce. Crunchy on the outside, juicy on the inside, the prawns were impeccable, and perfectly balanced off by the fresh salad. Did I mention the thin focaccia bread that we savored while waiting for our antipasti?

Following the prawns, we had the gooey Risotto Ai Funghi Porcini (Risotto with Porcini Mushrooms), which comes highly recommended by Chef Cameli. We chose Tonno Scottato (Tuna Steak with Red Onions Cooked in Balsamic Reduction) as our secondo piatto. This dish is a rare find in Istanbul and definitely a winner at Emporio Armani Ristorante.

We had a glorious ending to our meal with a dessert platter of Panna Cotta, Bavarese (Bavarian White Chocolate), and a delicious Tiramisu. The dessert platter truly summarizes what it means to live well and eat well. We suggest you give it a try ASAP.

After dessert, you may want to head over to the outdoor dining area on the second floor (where a vertical garden is in the works). Pick a glass of wine (or a bottle) from the extensive wine list, with a focus on Turkish and Italian wines, or take a look at the bar menu, which includes a range of whiskeys, cognacs, grappas, and digestives as well as cocktails. The best part? You can enjoy your drink with a fine cigar that you pick from the menu (maybe a Hupman 60 or Cohiba Exquisitos?) on the terrace overlooking the crème de la crème strutting their stuff from Dior to Louis Vuitton.

Emporio Armani Ristorante, İstinyePark Shopping Mall, İstinye Bayırı Caddesi No. 73, İsinye; P: (0212) 345 61 40

The menu at Morro is solidly Italian, no fusion twists or surprises here, but rather just what you would expect at one of Istanbul’s classic Italian restaurants. Instead of importing ingredients from Italy, Morro instead focuses on getting the freshest local ingredients that are in season in Turkey. They freshly bake their own bread sticks and tasty tomato and whole grain breads, and have a wood burning pizza oven.

Appetizers include grilled asparagus, a cheese and prosciutto plate, and various salads, topped with goat’s cheese, grilled chicken, or sea bass. Main courses include rosemary chicken, grilled seafood skewers and sirloin steak, and sea bass cooked in beet leaves (a very popular option). Pasta dishes include linguine with seafood, a four cheese tortellini, and saffron risotto.

With a wood burning oven at the back, it comes as no surprise that the restaurant’s specialty is pizza, with a wide selection offering something for everyone, including some with a clear Turkish influence. Toppings include a range of cheeses and vegetables, smoked meat, smoked cheese, olives, and caramelized onions. There are also a few that offer prosciutto, cotto ham, and chorizo for those who really enjoy their pork products.

Wanting to leave room for all three courses, we decided to start our meal with a simple salad of arugula, tomatoes, and parmesan cheese. I had the daily special, which was the vegetarian lasagna with spinach and goat’s cheese. While it was very hearty and tasty, the lack of tomato sauce made the dish more reminiscent of a cross between lasagna and a Turkish börek than traditional Italian lasagna. My companion had the Pizza Pidos, a simple pizza with tomato sauce, mozzarella, and chargrilled eggplant. The crust was pleasantly thin and crispy while the eggplant had a nice smoky flavor, particularly when complimented with a dash of hot sauce.

The dessert menu once again offers a selection of Italian classics, such as Panna Cotta, Tiramisu and Napoleone. We made a delicious end to our meal with the chocolate soufflé, which was rich and decadent, served with vanilla ice-cream, as well as a portion of orange-chocolate and raspberry ice-cream, which comes from Cremeria Milano.

Morro is a nice addition to this rapidly developing neighborhood, a good option where you can enjoy a nice Italian meal in a warm and welcoming setting without breaking the bank.Kumbaracı Yokuşu No.66 Tünel; P:(0212) 292 25 50

Your lover is a sucker for beautiful views:Then all you have to do is arrange dinner somewhere where you can see Istanbul in all her glory. If you prefer a view of the Golden Horn and the Old City, head toMiklawhere you’ll get a fixed pricemenu of two starters, a main course, dessert, and local wine for 210TL per person. If you prefer a Bosphorus view, head toUlus 29where you’ll get a fixed price menu for 200TL per person (including local drinks). The menu includes goat cheese and beetroot salad, mushroom ravioli, steak, and dessert. Sonia Herring will also be there for a live performance of soul, jazz, and blues.Mikla,The Marmara Pera, Meşrutiyet Caddesi 167/185, Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 293 56 56. Ulus 29, A. Adnan Saygun Caddesi Ulus Parkı İçi, Ulus; P: (0212) 358 29 29.

Your lover loves all things from the sea:That’s an easy one! Head to Bebek Balıkçı or Sur Balık for a delicious seafood meal. If your partner likes classic things, Bebek Balıkçı may be more appealing (there’ll be a group playing guitar and violin on the night of the 14th from 7pm onwards). If your partner is more adventurous, especially when it comes to food, you may want to pick Sur Balık - they have some interesting dishes there, like balık mantısı (fish-filled dumplings, slathered in a garlic-yogurt sauce and dusted with herbs). Bebek Balıkçı, Cevdet Paşa Caddesi No. 26A, Bebek; P: (0212) 263 34 47. Sur Balık, Bebek Arnavutköy Caddesi No.52, Arnavutköy; P: (0212) 257 27 43.

Your lover is an aspiring hippie:Well, Kiva is no vegan restaurant, but it’s a restaurant that celebrates and supports local and seasonal food. So, take your down-to-earth lover to Kiva for some traditional Anatolian food. The Valentine’s Day special menu will include a mixed meze platter of mezes from 7 different regions of Turkey, followed by a dish from Tokat, one from Elazığ, and one from Diyarbakır. The meal, which will include unlimited local drinks, dessert, and Turkish coffee, costs 120 TL per person. Oh, and did we mention you’ll be right at the base of the Galata Tower? Galata Tower Square No. 4, Galata; P: (0212) 292 00 37

Your lover can’t have anything but the best:Changa is the recipient of “Best New Restaurant” award (Wallpaper – Design Awards 2007) and it’s under the consultancy of world-renowned chef Peter Gordon. Need we say more? Didn’t think so! Just remember that Changa offers a fixed price menu of 125 TL per person (including a glass of wine) that includes three starters, a main course, and dessert. Live music will liven up the place from 9pm onwards. Changa, Sıraselviler Caddesi No. 47/1, Taksim; P: (0212) 251 70 64

You both live on the Asian Side:For your sanity’s sake, stay on the Asian side! Instead of spending a few hours in traffic traveling to and from the European side, spend those hours bonding (whichever way you please). For dinner, we suggest you go to Zanzibar. There’ll be a fixed price menu of 85TL and slow Turkish music playing throughout the night. Cemil Topuzlu Caddesi Köşk Sokak No. 112, Caddebostan; P: (0216) 385 64 30

You don’t care about a special Valentine’s Day menu or event – you just want good food and a romantic atmosphere:Well, then you’ve got lots of options. Enjoy wonderful views of the Bosphorus and go for what your heart desires – the best of Japanese or Turkish cuisine at Sunset. Indulge in pasta or pizza at Da Vittorio, the cutest Italian restaurant in town, or head to Papermoon, if you’re after a more serious setting. If you want great views and great food, head to Vogue. For a traditional seafood restaurant, head to Kıyı, or if you want a cozier atmosphere nestled between Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque, head to Balıkçı Sabahattin. If you’re serious when it comes to music and wine, make your reservations at Riserva. If you want local and seasonal food at a cozy restaurant, Backyard is the way to go.

Sunset, Adnan Saygun Caddesi Yol Sokak No. 2 Ulus Parkı, Ulus; P: (0212) 287 03 57

Da Vittorio, Meşrutiyet Caddesi No.70, Ansen Suites, Tünel; P: (0212) 245 88 17

Papermoon, Adnan Saygun Caddesi, Akmerkez Residence Entrance Level, No. 224, Etiler; P: (0212) 282 16 16

Vogue, Süleyman Seba Caddesi BJK Plaza A Blok, Akaretler; P: (0212) 227 44 04

Kıyı, Haydar Aliyev Caddesi No. 186, Tarabya; P: (0212) 262 00 02

Balıkçı Sabahattin, Seyt Hasankuyu Sokak No. 1, Sultanahmet; P: (0212) 458 18 24

Riserva,Haydar Aliyev Cadesi No. 198/A, Tarabya; P: (0212) 299 41 41

Backyard,Bebeköy Sokak No. 1, Etiler; P: (0212) 287 15 00

The food is very good, and the menu is quite extensive, with a focus on fish and seafood. The house specialties include mussel stew with ouzo, sea bass stew with saffron, and shrimp sauté with cognac. The highlights of our lunch when we visited include saganaki (pan-fried cheese), dolma (vine leaves stuffed with rice), caciki (yogurt with cucumbers), crab salad, and the vegetable platter (broccoli, potato salad, beetroot, brussel sprouts, and cauliflower).

Kalabalık is the kind of place that anybody looking for a good Greek meal and good conversation with friends could go for lunch or dinner. Those who want to dance the night away should head to Kalabalık on Friday and Saturday nights when Yorgo the Greek entertainer takes the stage and turns Kalabalık into a full-blown Greek tavern.

Kala means good in Greece; balık means fish in Turkish. If you want good fish and seafood, you now know where to go.

Kalabalık; Muallim Naci Caddesi No:99, Kuruceşme; P: (0212) 3583628

If you’re after a simple meal that starts off with a flavorful soup, head to one of Istanbul’s esnaf lokantaları (tradesmen’s restaurants). For the best tradesmen’s restaurants in Istanbul, click here. In addition to typical home-cooked meals, you’ll find a range of Turkish soups, such as mercimek çorbası (lentil soup), ezogelin çorbası (red lentil and cracked wheat soup), tavuk suyu çobrası (chicken soup), yayla çorbası (yogurt-based soup with rice and mint), paça çorbası (leg of lamb soup), işkembe çorbası (tripe soup), and tarhana çorbası (tarhana soup).

Hünkar is an upscale version of a classic tradesmen’s restaurant. They have at least three varieties of soup on a given day, and they are best known for their leg of lamb soup.

If you want to go fancy on your soup, here is a list of the best soups in Istanbul:

When you head to the stylish Nişantaşı neighborhood for a shopping spree, take a break at Nişantaşı Brasserie and try their onion soup. Alternatively, head to Park Şamdan for a bowl of leg of lamb soup or lentil soup.

If you work in or around Levent, you know that Şans is a great spot for business lunches. Next time you’re there, make sure you order their delicious lentil soup.

When you head to Beyoğlu, you may feel the need to warm up before setting off on your night of barhopping. Baylo’s beetroot soup comes highly recommended for anyone barhopping in the Şişhane area. And if you’re after something ethnic, Çok Çok Thai’s Tom Ka Kai is just what you need.

If you want to try the best fish soup in Istanbul, head to Tarihi Karaköy Balıkçısı - it’s certainly worth the hefty price tag.

Hünkar, Mim Kemal Öke Caddesi No.21, Nişantaşı; P: (0212) 225 46 65

Nişantaşı Brasserie, Abdi İpekçi Caddesi No. 23/1, Nişantaşı; P: (0212) 343 04 43

Park Şamdan, Mim Kemal Öke Caddesi No. 18/1, Nişantaşı; P: (0212) 225 07 10

Şans, Hacı Adil Caddesi Palmiye Sokak No.1, Levent; P: (0212) 280 38 38

Baylo, Asmalımescit Mahallesi Meşrutiyet Caddesi No.107A, Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 243 60 18

ÇokÇok Thai, Meşrutiyet Caddesi No. 51, Tepebaşı; P: (0212) 292 64 96

Tarihi Karaköy Balıkçısı, Kardeşim Sokak No. 45 Grifin Han, Karaköy; P: (0212) 243 40 80

Lavanda Boutique Hotel & Restaurant, Ulupelit Köyü Seçkin Sokak No.2, Şile; P: (0216) 736 56 40

Pizza:Pizza Picco is a reasonably-priced eatery that delivers your food while it’s still hot. Don’t expect to find the finest prosciutto on your pizza, but rest assured that you’ll get a rather good one. The Robespierre Pizza comes highly recommended. And we suggest you try the Lasagna alla Bolognese, too – it’s very, very good. To find the branch that delivers to your area, click here.

Burger:Flame-kissed patties, gooey cheese, corn relish, home-made fries...juicy indeed! To enjoy a quality burger, just order what looks the most appetizing to you on Burger House’s menu. If you want to order a side, go for the haloumi stick. To find the branch that delivers to your area, click here.

The Burger:Order Lokum from Nusr-Et Burger. We don’t have the words to describe how delicious it is. Just order one and see for yourself. Call (0212) 265 45 02 to place an order.

Asian:Little China & Sushi is a bit on the pricey side, but offers high-quality Asian food for those craving the classics like hot & sour soup, sweet & sour chicken, spring rolls, fried rice, spicy tuna roll, and california roll. Call (0212) 263 17 15 to place an order. If ordering with a group, consider Quick China. It’s not only cheaper but it also offers varied selections of Thai, Chinese, and Japanese cuisine. To find the branch that delivers to your area, click here.

Fish:If you don’t want your entire house to smell like fish for an entire week, order grilled fish from Adem Baba. This is also a great option if you want to have a rakı-fish combo but don’t want to go out. Call (0212) 263 29 33 to place an order.

Chicken:Whether you want something on the healthy side or you’re craving for some comfort food, you’ll find what you’re looking for at WienerWald. The healthiest and tastiest choice is their rotisserie chicken, which is cooked with a 55-year-old special recipe: it is cooked without adding oil, resulting in chicken that is juicy on the inside and crunchy on the outside. And they serve the chicken within 40 minutes of cooking so it’s always fresh and tasty.For some comfort food, go for the wings, kicks, or the schnitzel, with a side of potato wedges, and finish off with a true apple strudel. To find the branch that delivers to your area, click here.

Healthy:The Wrap offers – you guessed it – delicious and healthy wraps, all of which come in two sizes and a side of mashed potatoes with basil. If it’s your first time ordering, we highly recommend the Asian chicken wrap or the slightly less healthy Philly cheese steak. To find the branch that delivers to your area, click here. If you want something a bit more hardcore, check out Cuppa’s extensive menu with a hefty selection of sandwiches, juices, smoothies, salads, soups, and entrees to choose from. Their juice and smoothie options are surely their strongest point. Call (0212) 249 57 23 to place an order.

But this huge covered bazaar takes a while to explore, and you’ll need to refuel at some point. Here is a list of our favorite eateries at or very close to the Grand Bazaar:

Havuzlu:Located very close toŞark Kahvesiin the Grand Bazaar,Havuzluis anesnaf lokantası(tradesman’s restaurant) that was established in 1960. Although the food is that of classic tradesman’s restaurants, the spacious venue is quite opulent, decorated with İznik tiles, old prints, and antique carpets. There are approximately 20 varieties of hot and cold dishes prepared daily, includingdöner. Desserts include the traditionalşekerpare(mini cakes in syrup) andfırın sütlaç(baked rice pudding).Gani Çelebi Sokak No. 3, Grand Bazaar; P: (0212) 527 33 46

Aslan Restaurant: If you want to have good Turkish food and also want to get a bit of fresh air, Aslan Restaurant is the way to go. Located just a few steps from the Nuruosmaniye gate of the Bazaar, Aslan Restaurant is a modest-sized esnaf lokantası (tradesman’s restaurant) offering delicious Turkish comfort food on a daily basis. The menu changes daily, and includes hot dishes, soups, and olive oil dishes. Unlike many tradesman’s restaurants that overdo the butter, the dishes at Aslan are light for a tradesman’s restaurant, and very tasty. You’ll find a variety of Turkish classics: two versions of lentil soup (we strongly recommend ezogelin, made with red lentil, bulgur, tomato paste, and spices), artichoke, stuffed peppers, imambayıldı (an olive oil dish made with eggplant stuffed with onion, garlic, and tomatoes), many meatball varieties, türlü (mixed vegetable dish), döner (roasted lamb), kuru fasulye (beans), and rice. Vezirhan Caddesi No. 70, Çemberlitaş; P: (0212) 513 76 10

Fes Café (small): If you’d rather not go for classic Turkish food and if you don’t want to step outside of the Bazaar, head to Fes Café on Halıcılar Caddesi, a trendy eatery where they serve excellent sandwiches, salads, and coffee. Here you can sip a frothy cappuccino while watching the crowd passing by on this busy artery of the Bazaar. Halıcılar Caddesi No. 62, Grand Bazaar; P: (0212) 528 16 13

Fes Café (large): If you need to take a breather, the larger branch of Fes Café is located just a few steps from the Nuruosmaniye gate, and serves as a chic, modern reprieve from the bustle of the Grand Bazaar. Take your pick from the sandwiches, salads, pastas, and main dishes, and make sure you drink a cup of their beautifully presented Turkish coffee before you head back into the Bazaar. Ali Baba Türbesi Sokak, Nuruosmaniye; P: (0212) 526 30 70-71

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Egg & Burger is a cozy, American-style diner that has become a favorite among locals, especially those living in Nişantaşı where the original branch is located. Recently, the diner has opened a branch in Etiler, very close to Akmerkez, to offer the same 50s style diner experience to those living and working around the area.

This new branch is small, much like its Nişantaşı counterpart, with two tables and a few bar stools inside. There are a couple of tables outside as well, but the heaters don’t suffice at the moment. A semi-closed area is in the works though, so if you’re craving for some tasty fast food, head to Egg & Burger in Etiler.

Their special Egg & Burger comes highly recommended – even if you’re a classic at heart, give this one a chance. The fried egg, the special sauce, the caramelized onions make the burger very flavorful. If going with a group, make sure to try the onion rings, too!

Egg & Burger; Nispetiye Caddesi, Yıldızçiçeği Sokak No. 2/E, Etiler; P: (0212) 265 09 99

I only do bohemian:If you are happy to indulge in brioche, granola, home-made jams, a variety of cheese, organic eggs, and many more delicious dishes, then head toJourneyin Cihangir.Akarsu Caddesi No.21/A, Cihangir; P: (0212) 244 89 89

I'll need some fresh air:If you want an oxygen-filled breakfast, then take a ride toAsmaaltıin Garipçe to enjoy Black Sea specialties likemıhlama(a dish made with cornmeal, string cheese from the Black Sea region, and butter), as well as cheese, jams,bal-kaymak(honey and clotted cream),tahin-pekmez(sesame paste with thick syrup of molasses),menemen(scrambled eggs with tomato and peppers), and eggs withsucuk(spicy Turkish sausage).Garipçe Köyü, Garipçe; P: (0212) 228 10 70

I must eat pancakes:Happily Ever Afteropens early, and offers a diverse breakfast with everything frommenemento pancakes.Cevdet Paşa Caddesi No. 24, Bebek; P: (0212) 263 41 38

I'll go straight from the club to breakfast:Sade Kahvein Rumeli Hisarı will be open around 6:00am for those who want to go straight from dancing to breakfast. Their regular menu includesbal-kaymak, a variety of cheeses, omelettes,menemen, and much more, all overlooking the Bosphorus.Yahya Kemal Caddesi No. 36/1, Rumelihisarı; P: (0212) 358 23 24

I won't stop drinking:Backyard’s regular brunch menu includes a breakfast plate with eggs and rustic bread, a variety of cheeses, nutella, and jams, as well as pancakes, eggs benedict, granola, and egg brioche. All this topped off with a Bloody Mary cocktail.Bebeköy Sokak No. 1, Etiler; P: (0212) 287 15 00

I want something classic:Enjoy brunch atBebek Koru Kahvesiwith butter, honey, smoked salmon, ham, a variety of cheeses, and eggs.Cevdet Paşa Caddesi No. 120/1, Bebek; P: (0212) 287 56 07

I want to be in Galata:Located right by the Galata Tower,Kivaoffers breakfast that includes natural, regional, Turkish classics.Galata Tower Square No. 4, Galata; P: (0212) 292 00 37

I have a sweet tooth:Enjoy waffles, pancakes, cakes, and fruits plus classic Turkish breakfast fare atDivanin Bebek.Cevdet Paşa Caddesi No. 28/A, Bebek; P: (0212) 263 29 73

I need an excuse to get away:Head toLeonardoin Polonezköy for classic Turkish breakfast fare.Köyiçi Sokak No. 32, Polonezköy; P: (0216) 432 30 82

I'll want to be in a nostalgic neighborhood:Head to Kuzguncuk on the Asian Side for a delicious breakfast atİlya Cafe. They don’t have a regular breakfast/brunch menu, but if you call one day ahead, they can prepare a breakfast based on your preferences.Bican Efendi Sokak No.1A Kuzguncuk, Üsküdür; P: (0216) 553 86 90

I'll be with family:Café Zanzibaris ideal for getting together with the parents and grandparents. Enjoy their classic Turkish breakfast plate as well as omelettes and pancakes.Cemil Topuzlu Caddesi Köşk Sokak No. 112, Caddebostan; P: (0216) 385 64 30

I'm staying in Taksim:Head toŞimdiin Amalımescit for classic Turkish breakfast fare.Asmalımescit Caddesi No.5, Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 252 54 43

I live in Etiler:If you live around Etiler and need somewhere close by, head toAll Sports Caféfor a classic Turkish breakfast after noon.Bıyıklı Mehmet Paşa Sokak No.1/2, Etiler; P: (0212) 257 42 99

I need to go somewhere where brunch really means breakfast and lunch:Moda Terashas a very comprehensive brunch menu that starts with eggs, jams, ham, fruits, cheese, and a wide variety of breads, then continues with olive oil dishes,mezes, salads, Beef Stroganoff, chicken on skewers, meatballs, rice, and a wide variety of desserts.Mektep Sokak No. 1, Moda; P: (0216) 338 70 40

Located on Top of the Ceylan InterContinental Hotel, City Lights Restaurant & Bar manages to combines a fine dining restaurant and a sophisticated bar in one elegant space. Upon entering City Lights, the first thing that strikes you is the stunning panoramic view of the Bosphorus. While there are many outstanding views of the Bosphorus, this one is particularly noteworthy for its unique angle, granting the viewer a whole new perspective. The venue has recently undergone a complete renovation and total makeover of the menu. The interior features a sleek and futuristic design by architect Iraz Kutlar - the ribbed wood design makes you feel as if you are inside a ship or maybe even a giant whale, and the black lacquered tables and modern furniture has all been custom made for the venue.

The menu is refined, offering haute cuisine, and it is clear that a lot of thought has been put into each plate. When it comes to the dishes, they are all beautifully plated, almost like works of art, and are all very well executed. I started my meal with the excellent Grouper Carpaccio with Vanilla. This dish was extremely well balanced, the Carpaccio was melt-in-your-mouth tender, while the vanilla flavour and accompanying herbs and yuzu sauce were all very subtle. Meanwhile, my companion started with the Goat Cheese with Tomato Confit, a rich dish with a ball of fresh and creamy goats cheese wrapped in tomato confit and served with caramelised beetroot and a balsamic vinegar sauce.

The main course options include Organic Duck Breast served with Damson plum purree, Jumbo Shrimp with pumpkin cream, Lobster Back and Medallion of Beef. While these are all very tempting, I could not resist another dish from the appetizer menu: the homemade lobster Ravioli, an indulgent dish with chunks of lobster in a rich and creamy sauce. My companion had the Lamb Rib Eye, a luscious dish reflecting a strong Moroccan influence with the over roasted lamb served with vegetable couscous, slow cooked apricots and aubergine cream.

After such an impressive meal, we could not resist dessert. There are a number of ambitious dishes on the dessert menu which includes Date Ice Cream, and Mascarpone Cheese & Raspberry Ice Cream and someunusual flavor pairings, such as the Olive Oil Chocolate Mousse. Certainly the most memorable was the Melon and Rakı sorbet, which had just the right combination of sweetness and tanginess, and was very enjoyable even if you are not a regular rakı drinker. With the combination of the superb view, excellent cuisine and sophisticated ambiance, a night at City Lights is truly a night to remember. City Lights Restaurant & Bar;Ceylan InterContinental Istanbul Asker Ocağı Caddesi No. 1 Taksim; P:(0212) 368 44 44

The décor in the restaurant is very minimal and spare, contrasting with the classic architecture of the building itself, which was designed by architect Alexandre Vallaury and opened in 1892 as the official state bank of the Ottoman Empire. The restaurant’s modern interior was designed by Han Tümertekin, one of Turkey’s most acclaimed architects, and is spread across two floors, with a café section downstairs and a more formal restaurant upstairs. In the cafe cool grey tones dominate, with marble floors, lights hanging from tubes, and a wall full of books behind Plexiglas – the collection of the late artist, writer, curator Hüseyin Bahri Alptekin. The slightly cold feel is lightened up a bit by the warm wood furniture and large staircase leading up to the more formal dining room with sweeping views across the Golden Horn.

When it comes to the food, the menu offers a little bit of everything, without overextending itself. The breakfast offerings are mostly traditional Turkish, while the rest of the menu veers a bit more towards fusion, such as the Hamsi Tava (fried anchovies) which are served with a harissa aioli sauce or the Pide with roast beef. The menu includes a selection of sandwiches and pide, mains such as eggplant gratin, fish and chips, schnitzel and köfte, as well as salads. On a recent visit I opted for the crispy risotto with tomato for a starter, which had a nice and crunchy texture and deep flavor. For the main I had the grilled calamari salad in which the calamari is served cut into very thin strips on a bed of ribbon thin zucchini, grilled red and yellow peppers and mesclun salad, topped with pesto and toasted hazelnuts, a very successful dish with layers of flavors and textures.

Given the limited size of the menu, there dessert list is surprisingly long, and again offers a number of Turkish items with a twist, such as the kadayif with caramelized pumpkin. I ordered a classic European dessert, the Mont Blanc, which came served on a very large plate with ice cream and crushed pistachio on one side and the chestnut puree and meringues on the other - very delicious when eaten all together. With a many tempting and interesting looking items on the menu, Ca`d`Oro makes for an ideal break before taking in the artwork at SALT Galata. Ca'd'oro;SALT Galata, Bankalar Caddesi No.11 Karaköy; P:(0212) 243 82 92

The menu was designed with the consultation of French three Michelin stared chef Alain Ducasse, thereby setting some pretty high expectations. The menu is not extensive, instead focusing on a select number of dishes, which are well-prepared. A number of items on the menu are cooked using the “sous vide” method in which the food is sealed in an air-tight bag and cooked immersed in water for long periods at relatively low temperatures. This cooking method creates a particularly tender consistency as evidenced by two popular dishes, the Monkfish Pêcheur and T-bone steak. The menu also features a number of tasty gourmet sandwiches such as the Lobster Double Decker served with truffle mayonnaise, and the Bruschetta Florentine, with sautéed spinach and quails egg. There is also a noteworthy wine list, with a nice selection of both Turkish and international wines.

On any visit to Baylan it’s almost compulsory to end your meal with one of their desserts, such as the legendary Kup Griye, an indulgent combination of vanilla ice cream and caramel sauce topped with whipped cream and sprinkled with pistachios. But their other desserts, which are classic European in style, are also well worth a try.

Baylan’s interior is rich and tasteful with lots of dark wood, cream colored linens and marble floors in a herringbone design, with a wonderful view over the Bosphorus. Particular attention has been paid to the table setting, with fine linen table cloths, Limoges china and silver flatware, as well as beautiful double walled glasses. Baylan can rightfully be called an Istanbul classic, and with this restaurant it has been reinvented to be enjoyed by a new generation.Baylan Patisserie;Cevdet Paşa Caddesi No.52-54 Bebek; P: (0212) 358 07 60

360 Istanbul East: Dinner, dancing, and great views come together at 360 Istanbul East. After some champagne and tasty little bites, the set dinner menu will include salmon, lobster, chestnut sorbet, turbot with cauliflower puree and mastic sauce or veal ribs with eggplant risotto and red wine sauce, and Turkish dessert platter. The night will get going with the live performance of Desaparecidos. (You've definitely heard of them; this songwas quite popular a few years back.) Later in the night, a DJ will get behind the deck to continue the party with popular house music. The pricing hasn’t been finalized but expect somethingnorth of 300TL.Caferağa Mahallesi Albay Faik Sözdener Caddesi No.3,1 Double Tree by Hilton, Kadıköy; P: (0212) 251 10 42

Hush: You’ve got two options at Hush - either go for the dinner and party combo, or have a family dinner at home and grab your friends for the post-dinner party. Dinner menu includes starters, pizza, mains, and desserts, and costs 150 TL per person. Dinner is served between 07:00pm-11:00pm. The entrance for the post-dinner party is 30 TL per person including one local drink. DJ Bora Dündar and Sercan Yılmaz will be playing electronic, house, and disco from 10:00pm until 03:00am. Make sure you make reservations for dinner.Caferağa Mahallesi Miralay Nazım Sokak 20, Moda; P: (0532) 285 49 04

Saloon: The set menu at Saloon includes salmon tartar with celery puree, ravioli melanzane, turkey with chestnuts and seasoned rice, and dessert. Dinner is served at 08:30pm, and costs 150 TL per person including unlimited local drinks. NYE entertainment will kick off around 11:00pm with DJs, belly dancing shows, and fireworks. If you just want to join in for the celebrations after dinner, it will cost 90 TL per person including unlimited drinks. No worries, tripe soup will be served by the end of the night to ward off any possible hangovers. Keep in mind that you must make a reservation in advance, otherwise they won’t let you in. Bağdat Caddesi No. 448, Suadiye; P: (0216) 416 50 49

Çubuklu Hayal Kahvesi: The legendary Turkish pop band MFÖ is taking the stage at Çubuklu Hayal Kahvesi. Pre-concert set dinner menu features artichokes, chargrilled eggplant salad, stuffed vine leaves with pastırma (Turkish pastrami), turkey with chestnut rice, and warm chestnut cake. Dinner and concert entrance with unlimited local drinks is 450 TL for a table for two, 850 TL for a table for four, 1200 TL for a table for six, and 1600 TL for a table of eight. Dinner is served between 08:00pm and 10:00pm. Tables are moved aside around 10:00pm for the concert. If you just want to go to the concert (and keep in mind that no seating is available for the concert), the tickets are 98 TL per person, and are available through Biletix.

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Lucca:Start the New Year at Bebek’s hot-spot Lucca with a special tapas menu that features Jerusalem artichoke soup, a cheese plate, sea bass, mushroom ravioli, foie gras, and duck ragu. The meal will cost 180 TL, including 2 glasses of wine and a glass of champagne. There won’t be a crazy party after dinner, but there’ll be music playing until 02:00am. Cevdetpaşa Caddesi No. 51/B, Bebek; P: (0212) 257 12 55

Sunset:Enjoy a night of delicious food and awe-inspiring views of Istanbul at Sunset Grill & Bar. The starters of the set menu will include octopus carpaccio with white radish and celery stalk, scallop wrapped with shredded pastry and served with truffle yuzu sauce, sorbet, and arugula salad with avocado and pomegranate. For the main, you’ll have four options to choose from: oven-baked duck, caramelized risotto with apples, Hoisin sauce, and mustard; or beef tenderloin with basil, mashed potatoes, and red wine reduction sauce; or Chilean sea bass with truffle slices and truffle oil; or stuffed turkey with chestnut and brussels sprouts. Dessert will be a regal chocolate soufflé. Post-dinner entertainment will be held by dance music DJ Yener Katırcıoğlu after 11:00pm. All this will cost 400 TL plus tax including all local and standard international drinks. Adnan Saygun Caddesi Yol Sokak No. 2 Ulus Parkı, Ulus; P: (0212) 287 03 57

X Restaurant:If you want to combine great food with great views of the Golden Horn, consider spending New Year’s Eve at X Restaurant. Their six-course set menu includes caviar, yogurt, and shallots; king crab salad with green apple, baked tomato, and lettuce; spaghetti with octopus, cherry tomatoes, and parsley; and passion fruit and mango sorbet. You’ll have two choices for the main: lobster tail with almonds or grilled beef tenderloin, both served with porcini french fries and garlic-flavored parsley sauce. For dessert, enjoy the coffee-flavored dome and hazelnut crisps. The price of the menu excluding drinks is 180TL plus tax. There’ll be a DJ playing a mix of house, pop, and chillout. For reservations, call (0212) 244 71 01. IKVS Deniz Palas Sadi Konuralp Caddesi No: 5, Şişhane. P: (0212) 334 08 45

Mikla:Mikla offers one of the best views of Istanbul - you’ve got to see it to believe it! And if you haven’t been there before, New Year’s Eve is a great excuse. Mikla’s eight course food-and-wine pairing menu features bonito with sour apple and rye; shrimp with spinach and mullet roe; grouper with potatoes, lemon, and dill; lamb with rice, dried fruits, and yoghurt; cheese plate; pumpkin, pistachio, sesame, molasses; and petit fours. The accompanying drinks menu features Moët & Chandon, Brut Impérial, France (Champagne); Adam, Riesling Reserve (2008), Alsace, France; Michel Laroche, Chablis (2009), Burgogne, France; Angelo Gaja, Promis (2008), Toscana, Italy; Passito, Ben Rye (2007), Pantelleria, Sicilia, Italy.Dinner is served between 06:30pm and 11:30pm, and costs 250 Euros per person. Feel free to stick around after dinner for a DJ performance that will last until 02:00am. The Marmara Pera, Meşrutiyet Caddesi 167/185, Beyoğlu. P: (0212) 293 56 56

Delicatessen:If New Year’s Eve is not a big deal for you but you’d still like to celebrate in one way or another, dinner at Delicatessen will suit your mood. There is not a special celebration, just Delicatessen’s great food and atmosphere. The venue will close down by 02:30am, and there sure won’t be a crazy party. Reservations can be made for up to twelve people. Mim Kemal Öke Caddesi No.19/1, Nişantaşı; P: (0212) 225 06 04

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This year, several Istanbul neighborhoods (Kumkapı, Samatya, and Beyoğlu) and meyhanes are hosting the festival between 3^rd and 10^th of December with discounted set menus of 55TL. It won’t be just about rakı though—expect belly dancing shows, live fasıl music, wish trees, and even fortune tellers!

The Istanbul leg of World Rakı Week begins on the 3^rd of December in Kumkapı and finishes on the 10^th in Samatya. Of the participating meyhanes, we suggest you makereservations at:

Kör Agop on 5^th of December – Ördekçi Bakkal Sokak No. 7, Kumkapı; P: (0212) 517 23 34

Boncuk on 8^th of December – Asmalımescit Sokak No. 29, Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 245 31 69

Kuleli Meyhane on 10th of December – Büyük Kuleli Sokak No.38, Samatya; P: (0212) 587 94 28

Günbilir Balık Restaurant on 10th of December – Hacı Hüseyin Ağa Mahallesi Eski Kulluk Sokak No.18, Samatya; P: (0212) 529 26 45

Ali Haydar’ın Yeri on 10th of December – Hacı Hüseyin Ağa Mahallesi Samatya Meydanı Gümüş Yüzük Sokak No.6, Samatya; P: (0212) 584 21 62

If you don’t care for the discounted prices or the accompanying events, but want to take the opportunity to enjoy a long night of rakı and meze with your friends, take a look here for Istanbul’s classic meyhanes.

Backyard:Located in the Bebeköy neighborhood of Etiler, Backyard is housed on the same grounds as the MAC sports club, which gives the restaurant a somewhat country-club atmosphere. As the name implies, Backyard does indeed have a large backyard with plenty of cushions and seats for lounging in the sun during the summer months. The restaurant’s main building has vaulted ceilings with skylights, giving the space a very light and airy feel. There are plenty of warm wood and broad floor boards painted white, with both modern and retro furniture. This is the type of place that you would sooner expect to find in trendy Asmalımescit, although the crowd is very Bebek. Backyard is definitely cool, but not too cool, and still manages to be warm and inviting. The menu focuses on natural and organic produce and many of the ingredients are sourced from co-owner Zeynep Moroğlu’s family farm in Çatalca. The menu ranges from Turkish classics to more international fare. The mains include lamb chops, steak, grilled salmon, several pastas, and other fairly standard dishes, as well as the more innovative “mini tastes”. One of the menu highlights is the excellent wheat risotto with porcini mushrooms. Another noteworthy dish was the oven-bakedmücver. While the mains are certainly very satisfying, be sure to leave room for dessert. Bebeköy Sokak No. 1, Etiler; P: (0212) 287 15 00

Lokanta Maya:Open since May 2010 in Karaköy right next to Karaköy Lokantası, Lokanta Maya is set on one ideal: offering flavorful dishes made from local, fresh, and seasonal ingredients. Lokanta Maya’s dynamic menu reflects this ideal, changing between lunch and dinner, from one day to the next, from one season to the other. Although the majority of dishes on the menu are inspired from Aegean and Mediterranean cuisines, the menu is varied enough to include specialties from other regions of Turkey, such ashamsi(anchovy) from the Black Sea Region. The décor is quite minimal with rustic tables giving the venue quite a homey feel. The little details make all the difference in this simple but tasteful interior, like the fresh flowers on each table and the cool hanging lamps. The menu does change seasonally, but we suggest you try their Mücver, salatalıklı yoğurt sos (fried vegetable patties with yogurt-mint-cucumber sauce) and çıtır hamsi(fried anchovy) if it’s on the menu when you go there. Kemankeş Caddesi 35-A, Karaköy; P: (0212) 252 68 84

Tag Cafe & Bistro: Located on a side street off of İstiklal Caddesi right next to Galeri Arter, Tag Cafe & Bistro is a small and cozy restaurant. The menu, which changes weekly, is prepared by Chef Ekin Doğrusöz, a foodie who learned the craft of cooking in France, having fallen in love with food in his mother’s kitchen. Prepared with the freshest and seasonal ingredients, Tag’s menu offers international fare. You might find yourself eating chili con carne (an exquisite meat dish served with rice) one day, and tagliatelle the next. İstiklal Caddesi Postacılar Sokak No.1/A, Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 243 68 42

Journey: Located on one of Cihangir’s liveliest streets is Journey, a cozy restaurant that reflects the character of the neighborhood that it’s located in: international, modern, and laid-back. With comfy sofas, coffee tables, bookshelves filled with interesting books and magazines, Journey is truly a home away from home. The venue is often filled with familiar faces from Turkish TV shows and the big screen, as well as expats and locals who have apparently made Journey their second home. There is something for everyone on the menu, from classic Turkish home-cooked meals with a twist, like ev usülü yaprak sarma(home-made stuffed vine leaves), to homemade pastas and pizzas, salads, and meat dishes. The çimlendirilmiş mercimekli ılık patates salatası (warm potato salad with sprouted lentils) comes highly recomended, so do the fıstıklı sebze ve bulgur pilavı (vegetables and bulgur rice with pine nuts) and keçi peyniri, fesleğen pesto, domates, roka(goat cheese, basil pesto, tomato, and rocket) pizza. Although Journey is strictly a restaurant, meaning it doesn’t turn into a bar after hours like many of Istanbul’s restaurants, their cocktails are delicious. Journey could very well be your new stop before you head down to Kiki or another Cihangir bar.Akarsu Caddesi No.21/A, Cihangir; P: (0212) 244 89 89

International art expo Contemporary Istanbul will be held between November 24^th and November 27^th at the Istanbul Congress Center and Istanbul Convention and Exhibition Center in Harbiye. Here is a list of the best restaurants around Harbiye for all your pre and post food stops during Contemporary Istanbul.

Borsa:Open since 1927, Borsa is an established restaurant dedicated to traditionalTurkish cuisine. Its branch within the Lütfi Kırdar Convention Center makes it a convenient stop for concert-goers. Lütfi Kırdar Convention Center, Gümüş Caddesi No.4, Harbiye; P: (0212) 232 42 01

Dragon:Located in the Hilton İstanbul Hotel, Dragon is regarded by many as the best Chinese restaurant in town. Dragon specializes in Cantonese and Szechuan dishes prepared by chefs from Hong Kong. Here you can sample classic Chinese cuisine at its best, including Hot and Sour Soup, Crispy Duck, Kung-Pao Chicken, Szechuan Style Beef, Five Spiced Squid, and Deep Fried Ice Cream. Cumhuriyet Caddesi, Hilton İstanbul Hotel, Harbiye; P: (0212) 231 62 00

Al bushra:Hilton İstanbul Hotel’s Al Bushra is where you’ll find all sorts of Lebanese delicacies plus a magnificent Bosphorus view. Lebanese food is a particularly rich branch of Middle Eastern cuisine, and anyone who’s triedkibbehknows there’s no going back to ordinary meatballs once you’ve tasted this bulgur-meat combination. Cumhuriyet Caddesi, Hilton Istanbul Hotel, Harbiye; P:(0212) 343 8081

Park şamdan:Open since 1982, Park Şamdan is an established fine-dining restaurant that serves Turkish and international dishes. Their paça çorbası (leg of lamb soup), risottolu dana kaburga (beef rib with risotto), keşkül (almond-based milk pudding), and kaymaklı ekmek kadayıfı(crumpets with syrup and clotted cream) come highly recommended. You can also rely on your experienced waiter to lead you through the impressive menu. Mim Kemal Öke Caddesi No. 18/1, Nişantaşı; P: (0212) 225 07 10

Hünkar:Hünkar is an upscale version of a classic tradesman restaurant (esnaf lokantası), specializing in home-style Turkish and Ottoman cuisine. You’ll find a range of soups, mezes, olive oil dishes, meat dishes, and seasonal fish, grilled to order. Hünkar is particularly famous for itsBeğendili kebap(eggplant puree with lamb chunks). Their yogurt is in a class of its own and is definitely a must-try.For dessert, there are a number of scrumptious options, includingkomposto(fruit compote), rice pudding,şekerpare (mini cakes in syrup), andaşure(wheat pudding with nuts and dried fruits). Mim Kemal Öke Caddesi No. 21, Nişantaşı; P: (0212) 225 46 65

Delicatessen: A hip joint at the heart ofNişantaşı, Delicatessen offers dozens of choices from steak burger to fresh fish, and most dishes come with scrumptious sides. Mim Kemal Öke Caddesi No.19/1, Nişantaşı; P: (0212) 225 06 04

Den Cafe:Open since 2008, Den Cafe is similar to The House Cafe—hip and cool, featuring wooden communal tables. It’s not a place to be seen but a place where regulars as well as new customers can relax over a cup of coffee, or enjoy breakfast, lunch, or dinner with friends. Den Cafe’s menu is international, featuring a lunch menu that changes daily. Mim Kemal Öke Caddesi No. 1/D, Nişantaşı; P: (0212) 224 24 70

Brasserie Nişantaşı:Located on the trendiest crossroad in Nişantaşı, Brasserie Nişantaşı is the meeting point for Istanbul’s glitterati and one of the best places for people-watching. The menu is very French, with salmon, beef carpaccio, and great summer desserts, as well as a variety of European dishes. Abdi İpekçi Caddesi No. 23/1, Nişantaşı; P: (0212) 343 04 43

After closing for the summer, Antica Locanda is back with a new menu for the fall season. Once again, the menu is not extensive, and instead offers a select mix of pastas, pizzas, and mains. Some favorites from last season remain, such as the scrumptious saltimbocca, a flat dough topped with mozzarella, goat’s cheese, and caramelized onions.

New to the menu are items such as the Venetian fresh fettuccini with orange flavored duck and beef rague, fresh fagottini stuffed with fish and served with a nutmeg-flavored cream sauce, and the veal scaloppini served with a lemon, vodka sauce. New dessert items include the classic lemon tart served with vanilla cream and the basil-flavored panna cotta.

Lebanese: Lebanese food is a particularly rich branch of Middle Eastern cuisine, and anyone who’s triedkibbehknows there’s no going back to ordinary meatballs once you’ve tasted this bulgur-meat combination. Lebanese cuisine does not diverge too far from Turkish and Greek, and you can have a twist on grape leaves if you’re willing to forgo some of the stuffing and call itwarak enab. Hilton’s Al Bushra is where you’ll find all these Lebanese delicacies plus a magnificent Bosphorus view.Hilton Istanbul Hotel, Cumhuriyet Caddesi,Harbiye; P: (0212) 343 8081

Thai:If you’ve been craving for some yellow curry, Pad Thai, or beef satay, you’ll find all that and much more in ÇokÇok Thai’s comprehensive menu. And your food will be prepared by the resident chef, Miss Nuch, who has cooked for consulates around the world, organized banquets for the Thai royal family, and published several cook books. We suggest you try their delicious cocktails while you’re there—the slightly sour Rain Odaiba would be a fine choice to compliment your meal. Or go for the spicy Pam dor afterwards. Keep in mind that ÇokÇok Thai is located steps away from the Pera Museum, so consider stopping by to see their latest exhibitions Suretin Sireti and Osman Hamdi Bey ve Amerikalılar before your meal. Meşrutiyet Caddesi No. 51, Tepebaşı; P:(0212) 292 64 96

Korean: If you want to have a true Korean experience, head to Gaya where you’ll find a range of Korean dishes from the Korean Royal cuisine to traditional Korean barbeque.While you’re there, make sure you try a glass of soju, the Korean equivalent of sake. Abdül Hak Hamit Caddesi No. 50, Taksim; P: (0212) 238 00 00

Indian: Samosa, pakora, tikka masala… All under one roof in Taj Mahal, prepared by the Pakistani chef Zia Mehmood. Pick your favorite from the wide selection of vegetarian and meat dishes, such as Kashmiri lamb chops (chops boiled in milk and then fried with spices), crowd-pleasing dahls, curries, and rice. If you’re a meat fan, we highly recommend that you try the Lamb Korma. Nergis Sokak No. 4A, Asmalımescit; P: (0212) 293 66 00

There are a few things to consider when choosing a restaurant in Istanbul: the food, the view, and the it factor. When you have at least two of these in one place, then you’ve hit bulls-eye and all you need to know is the hottest table in the restaurant.

Delicatessen: Where to sit at Delicatessen? Definitely, on the bench by the door! Plug in your laptop, order your cocktail, and enjoy the cool Nişantaşı scene. Mim Kemal Öke Caddesi No.19/1, Nişantaşı; P: (0212) 225 06 04

Lucca: We all know Lucca is the perfect spot to see and to be seen. But just hanging out on the posh corner is not enough. The key is to find the right seat. The glitterati try to sit outside to be on display. Play the cool guy/gal and sit at the bar, right by the DJ. Remember, whoever sits closest to the DJ and the bartender at the same time gets all the attention.Cevdetpaşa Caddesi No. 51/B, Bebek; P: (0212) 257 12 55

Bird: It’s hard to believe how Bird became one of Istanbul’s hottest spots with just 10 tables. Rumor has it that the likes of Koç, Sabancı, and Mermerci families sit at the same table every time they go there. You may not have much of a choice when it comes to picking a table when big names like these frequent the restaurant. If you’re lucky, you can at least try to get table number six, which is the closest one to the door. It has the perfect coordinates to see what’s going on both inside and outside. Meşrutiyet Caddesi No. 103, Şişhane; P: (0212) 245 70 85

360istanbul: This is a tourist hot-spot due to its unique location offering fantastic views of Istanbul. But 360istanbul is also a must-visit for locals. Watch the sunset at this exceptional location, sitting on the big C-shaped table, which is for six to nine people, so don’t forget to bring your friends with you.İstiklal Caddesi No.311, Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 251 10 42

Beyti: Open since 1945, Beyti is one of the oldest and most popular meat restaurants in Istanbul. The venue is full of memorabilia from notable customers, and the decoration is largely in the old Ottoman style. The restaurant owes its reputation for good meat to the use of prime choice cuts, the application of special marinating techniques, and instant serving from the charcoal-grill. Keep in mind that Beyti will be closed on Monday, November 7th so head there on Tuesday or Wednesday.Orman Sokak No. 8, Florya; P: (0212) 663 29 92.

Suna’nın Yeri: Located in Kandilli by the waterfront, Suna’nın Yeri is very popular for its great food, wonderful views, moderate prices, and casual atmosphere. Even though what’s on the selective meze menu is very good, we suggest you go for the fresh fish, the calamari, and the salads. İskele Caddesi No. 4-17, Kandilli; P: (0216) 332 32 41

Çiya: Go on a culinary journey at Çiya, located in Kadıköy on the Asian side. The menu changes daily, and on a typical day you will find delicacies from Syria, Georgia, southern Iran, and all parts of Turkey featured on the menu. Note that Çiya will be closed on Sunday, November 6th, so go there during the week.Güneşli Bahçesi Sokak No. 43-44, Kadıköy; P: (0216) 330 31 90

Cafe du Levant: One of the best French restaurants in Istanbul is undoubtedly Cafe du Levant in Hasköy, attached to the Rahmi M. Koç Museum. It is a charming Parisian brasserie perfect for those craving authentic French cuisine or the romantic atmosphere of Paris. Keep in mind that Cafe du Levant will be closed on Sunday, November 6th and Monday, November 7th, so head there on Tuesday or Wednesday. Make sure you visit the Rahmi M. Koç Museum while you're there.Rahmi M. Koç Museum Hasköy Caddesi No. 27, Sütlüce; P: (0212) 369 94 50

Perhaps the best promotional tool is the one aimed at reigniting Samatya’s local eateries. Due to its location right by the sea, Samatya has always been known as a place to get fresh seafood but it has never attracted large numbers of visitors the way that the nearby neighborhood of Kumkapı has. The Samatya Development Project plans to change this by encouraging restaurants to stay true to their roots and keep the traditional tastes. The project has also helped with restaurant renovations and staff training to elevate service to an international standard. All of this has culminated in some fantastic dining opportunities.

Because of Samatya’s multi-ethnic history, it has much more to offer than your typical fishing village. One of Istanbul’s best restaurants, Develi is located here. Opened in 1966, this is the first Istanbul branch of the Gaziantep restaurant chain that was established in 1912. They serve delicious southeastern Turkish dishes made with the best regional ingredients. Many branches of the restaurant have opened in Istanbul, but the city’s first Develi may still be the best place to eat. Delicious food, five-star service, and a view of the sea can’t be beat.

Located in an old 3-story Armenian building, Günbilir Restaurant was formerly called the Varujan Restaurant. After the master cook Varujan died, the restaurant was bought by three brothers who renamed it but decided to keep the same excellent food and service as the former owner. Although seafood is their specialty, Greek and Armenian influences can be seen on Günbilir’s menu.

Samatya was quite famous for its taverns before the 1950s and a few of them have managed to survive to present day. Kuleli Meyhane is one of those classic taverns. The award-winning chef offers 40 different mezes and some very interesting variations of classic seafood dishes, like hamsi (anchovy) wrapped in chard and stuffed octopus. They also prepare their own sour cherry liqueur, which is highly recommended.

One of the reasons that the public began to show interest in Samatya again is the Turkish TV show İkinci Bahar. The showwas aired a couple of years ago and was centered on a couple who worked in a restaurant in Samatya.The location was chosen because of its nostalgic look and is called Ali Haydar'ın Yeri. The restaurantis still a popular attraction for locals, and is a must-visit for those who'd like to have some great meat or enjoy some fasıl (classic Tavern music)in the evening with a glass of rakı.

Whether you are interested in history, culture, or good food, it is clearly time to take a new look at the ancient neighborhood of Samatya.

Develi; Gümüşyüzük Sokak No. 7, Samatya; P: (0212)632 79 82

Günbilir Restaurant; Hacı Hüseyin Ağa Mahallesi, Eski Kulluk Sokak No. 18, Samatya; P: (0212) 529 26 45

Kuleli Meyhane; Büyük Kuleli Sokak No. 38, Samatya; P: (0212) 587 94 28

Ali Haydar'ın Yeri; Hacı Hüseyin Ağa Mahallesi, Samatya Meydanı, Gümüş Yüzük Sokak No.6, Samatya; P: (0212) 584 21 62

Located on a small street behind the Karaköy shipping docks right next to Lokanta Maya, Karaköy Lokantası is one such restaurant. The major differences between Karaköy Lokantası and regular tradesmen’s restaurants are that at Karaköy Lokantası the interior is upscale, the food is lighter, alcohol is served, and you can sip your espresso after lunch. Possibly the most striking detail about the restaurant’s interior is that all the tables are covered with white tablecloths. White tablecloths are often found at expensive, upper-scale restaurants that offer “serious” food—not Turkish home-cooking at least. But the addition of white tablecloths here is quite refreshing, and pays respect to the intricate flavors of Turkish cuisine.

Housed in a beautiful old building and spread over two floors, the restaurant’s interior is quite unique, featuring checkered floors, walls covered with turquoise tiles, and a wrought iron staircase. The décor carries a very modern love-it-or-hate-it feel, sprinkled with an Ottoman touch, and the restaurant feels very homey.

The warm atmosphere is probably due to owner Oral Bey’s passion for creating a restaurant that not only serves great food but also offers a friendly environment. In fact, he knows the names of almost everyone that walks through the front door and he takes the time to chat with all of them. And you can tell by Oral Bey’s interaction with the customers that they have talked many times before. That’s because Karaköy Lokantası is always filled with its frequenters.

The food at Karaköy Lokantası is even more impressive than the atmosphere. The lunch menu changes daily, but always features classic Turkish dishes. On a recent visit, we had a chance to sample quite a few dishes. The chicken soup that we started off with was quite tasty, perfect for those who want to warm up on a cold autumn day.Theetli lahana dolması(stuffed cabbage leaves with meat), served with yogurt, was nicely done. We also hadpatlıcan salatası(eggplant salad) followed by a platter ofköfte(meatballs),ciğer(liver), and eggplant puree. The thinly sliced, perfectly grilled liver and the creamy eggplant puree were the highlights of our lunch.

Keep in mind that dinner is an entirely different story at Karaköy Lokantası, which is a tradesmen’s restaurant by day and Turkish tavern by night, offering a set menu of mezes, meat, and fish.

Karaköy Lokantası; Kemankeş Caddesi No. 37A, Karaköy; P: (0212) 292 44 55

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Located on a narrow street in Sirkeci, Şehzade Cağ Kebabı is a humble restaurant spread over two floors and a few tables outside by the entrance. Their specialty is a regional kebab variety from the eastern city of Erzurum called cağ kebabı. Made from lamb, the meat is marinated with onion, salt, and pepper for a few hours, and then cooked over wood fire. Even though it looks like the horizontal version of döner (roasted lamb) that you see everywhere in the city—and in fact it is also referred to as such—cağ kebabı is much more flavorful and delicious than the ordinary vertical döner.

The meat is served with homemade lavaş (thin flatbread) or in a sandwich, but owner Özcan Yıldırım, who is a native of Erzurum, insists that the only way to eat cağ kebabı is straight from the skewer. This would be almost self-explanatory if we only knew Azerbaijani, as cağ means skewer in Azerbaijani.

Yıldırım has been in the cağ kebab business for 34 years, having operated restaurants in a variety of neighborhoods in Istanbul as well as in his hometown Erzurum. He is passionate about what he does and is very selective when it comes to the meat he uses, insisting that only the freshest meat will give the kebab the flavor that makes cağ kebabı so legendary. That’s why he buys seasonal meat from different regions, such as the Thrace region, Balıkesir-Gönen, Ankara, and Tokat.

Rest assured that the meat here, even though made from lamb, is odorless, juicy, tender, and delicious. No need for fancy sauces to give it flavor.

At Şehzade Cağ Kebabı, the only things on the menu, except for the kebab, are manda yoğurdu (yogurt), acılı ezme (spicy paste), and çoban salatası (shepherd’s salad)—all of which compliment the meat perfectly. Especially the yogurt, which is brought all the way from Aydınlıköy near Düzce in the Black Sea region, comes highly recommended as it is a much thicker and tastier variety. The shepherd’s salad and acılı ezme (made with tomato, onion, pepper, and cucumber) are also very fresh and tasty. A meal at this restaurant is only complete with another Erzurum specialty—the kadayıflı dolma, a dessert filled with walnuts, wrapped with shredded pastry, and dipped in syrup.

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An Istanbul Classic: Hamdi Restaurant; by Will Washburn

Da Mario and Gina are having an 11-day special truffle menu starting on 20^th of October and lasting until 31^st of October for all truffle enthusiasts.

The white truffles on Da Mario and Gina’s menu grow in and around the city of Alba in the Piemento region of Italy only during October and November. Both restaurants will have the same menu, which will feature Tagliolini with white truffles, risotto with white truffles, and beef carpaccio with white truffles.

The menu will be available for both lunch and dinner; the prices at both restaurants are 150 TL for the pasta and risotto dishes and 90TL for beef carpaccio.

Da Mario: Dilhayat Sokak No. 7 Etiler; P: (0212) 265 15 96

Gina:Kanyon Shopping Mall Levent; P: (0212) 353 54 52

Cihangir is home to the cool, the artsy, and the expat. Located on one of its liveliest streets is Journey—a recently-opened, cozy restaurant, only a few steps away from Smyrna on Akarsu Caddesi.

Journey reflects the character of the neighborhood that it’s located in: international, modern, cozy, and laid-back—just like Cihangir. During my first visit there—and I’ve already been three times this month—I was taken aback by the décor, which makes you feel as if you’ve mistakenly stepped into someone’s home.

With comfy sofas, coffee tables, bookshelves filled with interesting books and magazines, Journey is truly a home away from home. And, accordingly so, both first-time customers and regulars feel relaxed and at ease.

Both floors of this restaurant feature a similar style; the entrance floor boasts an open kitchen, an American-style-kitchen-turned-into-a-bar, and several small wooden tables with colorful chairs. Upstairs is even more lounge-like, featuring a couple of large sofas, coffee tables, and a communal table. The large green plants and wall decorations add that last personal touch to Journey.

The venue is often filled with familiar faces from Turkish TV shows and the big screen, as well as expats and locals who have apparently made Journey their second home. By the looks of it, many are comfortable bringing their laptop along, sitting on sofas, and working or chilling out for several hours at once.

The lounge and chill out music, which includes some surprising choices (like the Japanese song that I listened to on my first visit) is soothing and comforting, ideal for letting you sit back, relax, and enjoy the ride.

Contrary to the serenity of the atmosphere, Journey’s food is quite invigorating. There is something for everyone on the menu, from classic Turkish home-cooked meals with a twist to homemade pastas and pizzas, salads, and meat dishes. They even have a breakfast plate with English scones served with jams. An easy choice for anyone looking to treat themselves with a late breakfast or brunch on a lazy Sunday.

During the few times that I went to Journey, I had the chance to try many different dishes from the menu. The fırında ballı kuzu budu (roasted lamb shank with honey) and dana pirzola (beef chops) were both juicy and tender. The beef chops came with an addictive side of mashed potatoes with mustard, while the lamb shank was served with home-made french fries, just like your mom used to make when you were little, and vegetables. But when I say vegetables, I don’t mean the boring boiled broccoli and carrots. I mean creamy zucchini flower, beans, and zuchini.

It certainly isn’t all about the meat at Journey. The çimlendirilmiş mercimekli ılık patates salatası (warm potato salad with sprouted lentils) is, quite frankly, the best salad I’ve had in a very long time. You’ll find salads with lentils in a lot of restaurants in Istanbul but you’ll rarely come across sprouted lentils, which are so very energizing. The addition of rocket, cress, and fresh coriander makes the salad much tastier and a lot less like your ordinary greens.

Another winner was the ev usülü yaprak sarma (home-made stuffed vine leaves). Even though the traditional recipe includes meat, the Journey version was vegetarian-friendly, filled only with rice and spices. The elegantly rolled stuffed vine leaves is a great fins but vegetarians as well as meat-lovers who are highly likely to go back for more.

Speaking of vegetables, the less healthy but similarly appetizing option is the fıstıklı sebze ve bulgur pilavı (vegetables and bulgur rice with pine nuts). If you don’t mind the extra oil in your diet, definitely go for this dish, which comes with fried eggplant and zucchini, pine nuts, basil, and goat cheese.

The menu doesn’t include a long list of starters, but if you’re going with a large group or if you’re not that hungry, go for one of the charcuterie plates—I strongly suggest şarküteri II, which comes with bresaola, parmesan, pickles, olive pesto, tomato pesto, avocado dip, and peasant bread from Bolu. The breads, by the way, are made partly in house and some are brought from Bolu. They all taste great, but try not to fill yourself up too much before your meal comes. You can also share one of the delicious pizzas. The keçi peyniri, fesleğen pesto, domates, roka (goat cheese, basil pesto, tomato, and rocket) pizza is a great option.

Altough Journey is strictly a restaurant, meaning it doesn’t turn into a bar after hours like many of Istanbul’s restaurants, their cocktails are delicious. Journey could be your new stop before you head down to Kiki or another Cihangir bar.

While I very much enjoy Turkish food, it is only on rare occasions that I get particularly excited about a Turkish restaurant. So I knew, when I could not stop raving about Nar Lokanta to anyone who would listen, that I had come across a very special place indeed. Nar Gourmet’s first restaurant venture, Nar Lokanta is housed in the building of luxury retailer Armaggan. Located in the heart of Sultanahmet by the Grand Bazaar’s Nuruosmaniye gate, it is truly a sight to behold, with seven floors that include shops, an art gallery, a café, and, of course, Nar Lokanta.

Nar Gourmet specializes in all-natural regional products from throughout Anatolia. Nar Lokanta offers a platform from which to showcase these products as well as excellent Anatolian cuisine. This restaurant specializes in traditional Turkish food at its freshest and lightest, run by the team that used to manage the Feriye restaurant, including chef Vedat Başaran.

Once you’ve entered Armaggan’s stunning showroom and made your way past all the gorgeous jewelry and home art, the elevator takes you up to the fifth floor, where the restaurant is located. The atmosphere here is fairly formal, but not stuffy. The décor inside is very classic, featuring lots of marble and paintings by contemporary Turkish artists. At the back of the restaurant there are beautiful turquoise tiles surrounding the traditional stone oven where they bake their fresh pide bread. The most striking aspect of the décor is the vertical garden at the back of the restaurant. Hanging down to the floor below, covering two stories of the building, the various plants and flowers form an undulating pattern: a living work of art. There is also a large terrace surrounded by plants and ivy, with a gentle breeze keeping things cool.

The menu features familiar Turkish classics as well as a number of less common regional dishes, covering everything from Ottoman palace dishes to humble village fare. All dishes are prepared using Nar’s own olive oils, which have exceptionally low acidity, giving them a very pure and almost sweet flavor. While Nar Gourmet offers olive oils from all over Turkey, their most popular variety comes from the Ayvalık region on the Aegean coast, widely considered to be the best area in the country for olives.

Our meal started with a basket of their freshly baked bread, including the light and fluffy pide. This was served with a selection of Nar’s olive oils, including variations infused with flavors such as red pepper, and some aromatic herbs, such as dried mint and oregano, for sprinkling. Along with the bread came a small creamy ball of something that looked and tasted rather like cheese, but was actually made from strained yoghurt.

To accompany the range of Turkish cuisine is an extensive wine list that exclusively features Turkish wines, including a number of bottles from boutique vineyards. The mezeson offer include a variety of regional olive oil dishes, while the mains focus on lamb and beef, with a couple of chicken dishes also on the menu.

Not being a big red-meat eater, I decided to sample a few of the mezes and warm starters for my meal. These included the maş piyazı, a light and simple dish of mung beans with fresh onions and herbs, dressed with a pomegranate sauce that gave it a wonderful tangy flavor. The çerkez tavukis another classic, and was light and flavorful. For hot starters, we also selected the sembusek, a pide stuffed with cheese and tarragon leaves, with a slightly sweet finish. To round off my meal, I ordered the saray mantı, a traditional dish of little dumplings stuffed with spiced meat, served with a sauce of butter and garlic yogurt, and topped with a generous dusting of dried mint, sumac, and red chili flakes: the ultimate comfort food. Meanwhile, my companion had the beğendili kebab, a classic Turkish dish in which chunks of beef are stewed in a tomato sauce and served on a bed of eggplant puree. Nar’s beğendıwas perfectly smoky and creamy, making it the ideal base for the tender pieces of meat.

After such a hearty meal we had little room for desert, but could not resist Nar’s version of şekerpare, which was prepared with poppy seeds that added an unusual flavor twist and was accompanied by Turkish coffee and fig-flavored lokum. While everything we ate was delicious, we found that the simplest foods, such as the breads and olive oils, made the biggest impression on us. With its deliciously light Turkish fare, excellent service, and tasteful setting, Nar Lokanta has filled a real gap in the market, as there are not many places in this area where you can enjoy a high-quality meal in an upmarket setting — and at reasonable prices, no less. Given this long list of positive attributes, Nar Lokanta has now made it to the top of my list of places to visit when in the Sultanahmet area.

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Nar Lokanta;Armaggan, Nuruosmaniye Caddesi No.65 5th Floor; P:(0212) 522 28 00

Before merging in Beyoğlu, Peymane was located in Asmalımescit for ten years, whereas La Cucina used to be a boutique, homey Italian restaurant located in Kemerburgaz.

Now, Peymane – La Cucina is housed in a 5-storey historical building that includes an indoor-seating area, a garden, and a bar where DJ performances and stand-up shows will be held starting November. A VIP room is also available for those looking for a private area for their special occasion lunches and dinners.

There are two separate menus available at the restaurant. If you’re a meat fan, you can order from Peymane’s menu, which ranges from kebab dishes and mezes to salads and desserts, while your pasta-loving friend eats a classic pasta from La Cucina’s menu, which focuses on classic Italian dishes like pasta, risotto, and pizza.

Arşipel is a fish restaurant that made its initial entry to the restaurant scene in the southwestern city of Bodrum. It later opened a branch in Suada but has recently moved to a venue with a large terrace and indoor seating area in Kuruçeşme.

Arşipel’s menu includes a variety of fish and seafood, hot and cold appetizers, salads, pasta, risotto, and a few chicken and meat dishes. The highlights of the menu are the freshly caught fish. Some fish are caught from the Bosphorus; swordfish, lobster, and sea bass from the northwestern city of Çanakkale; sea bream from Bodrum; grouper and jumbo shrimp from the southern city of Karataş. The mezes include samphire, charcoaled eggplant, fried eggplant with tomato sauce, and cheese plate in addition to lots of seafood mezes, such as stuffed mussels, octopus, and salted bonito.

At Sur Balik you can dine on Turkish seafood and meze classics, such as tender salted bonito, served with fresh red onion slices and seasonal salad while enjoying the beautiful view and Bosphorus breeze. But if you are in the mood for something different, you won’t be disappointed. They also offer a range of classic Turkish dishes but with a seafood twist, as well as a number of unusual items that you won’t likely find anywhere else.

A real stand-out is the sea bass in fresh pesto sauce (levrek fesleğen), a dish that is bursting with flavor and will surely leave you wanting more. The Swiss chard stuffed with fish (pazı sarma), and the fish balls (balık köfte) are both an interesting and light take on Turkish standards. While balık mantı, might sound odd, the result is surprisingly tasty, as these fish-filled dumplings are, just like the original, slathered in a garlic-yogurt sauce and dusted with herbs.

Meanwhile, if its more standard seafood meal that you’re in the mood for, there is plenty on offer. The grilled octopus is very tender and highly recommended, or any of the fresh fish of the day. A great accompaniment to a seafood meal is their salad with ruby red tomatoes and wilted onions that is incredibly juicy and flavorful (surprisingly, soy sauce is the secret ingredient). To end the meal, again you can chose go with a more classic item, like the volcanic chocolate cake, which spews a rich warm chocolate filling. Or you can try something different, like the profiteroles served with a tahini sauce.

Having established a strong following with their branch in Sarayburnu over the past five years, the Arnavutköy location is their second location, which they are now expanding having taken over the building next door. With plans to open a third location on the Golden Horn before the end of the year, Sur Balik is quickly rising in the ranks of city’s favorite seafood restaurants.

Summer may have ended in the blink of an eye but that doesn’t mean that we have to give up on ice-cream. Get on board with fall, and instead of ice-cream in a cone go for these ice-cream desserts for a smaller chance of a brain freeze.

Kup Griye @ Baylan: Baylan is one of the oldest and most established patisseries in Istanbul, and its name is almost synonymous with their special dessert Kup Griye. Made with vanilla and caramel ice-cream, whipped cream, caramel sauce, and honey & almond crocan, this dessert has even inspired a fan page of its own!

Wafer Halva and Rose Parfait Sandwich @ müzedechanga: A contemporary take on a classic ice-cream dessert, this wafer halva is crunchy, cool, and sweet.The strawberry & raspberry sauce that it’s served with is simply amazing.

Dondurmalı İrmik Helvası @ Venge:The ice-cream filled semolina halvah at Venge is unrivalled. The only challenge is leaving enough space for dessert when eating all the delicious mezes and kebabs at Venge.

Dondurmalı Baklava @ Güllüoğlu: You love baklava and you love ice-cream. And the natural outcome of this is baklava topped with ice-cream. Even though it’s not on the menu, baklava with ice-cream is a typical order by Güllüoğlu-goers who love something crunchy with something cool.

Dondurmalı Lokma Tatlısı @ Giritli:Lokma (Turkish-style donuts dipped in syrup) is a classic dessert that takes a contemporary turn when topped with vanilla ice-cream. At Giritli, lokma is cooked the traditional way but dipped in only a little bit of syrup. Keep in mind that this dessert is only available as long as it’s warm enough to make the lokma outdoors. So head to Giritli before the weather gets too cold.

Rokoko @ Divan:Rokoko is the ultimate ice-cream cake topped with warm chocolate sauce. Yum!

Chicken: You’ll find many tempting options at WienerWald but the healthiest choice is their rotisserie chicken. For your carb intake, order a serving of rice. Alternatively, get grilled chicken with a side of rice (with or without butter) at Mac Café in Kanyon.

Meat: Get a sirloin steak at Karkas Steak House but skip the fries. Order a choice of salad and nibble on their tasty breads for your carb needs. Dükkan Steakhouse is also a great option for steak—pick your favorite from New York, Ribeye, and T-bone steak and get baked potatoes with it.

Fish: A very tasty and healthy option is Numnum’s Sağlık Somonu (grilled salmon served with a warm salad of lentils, wheat, and black-eyed peas). At BalıkEv in İstinyePark, order your choice of grilled fish with a side of salad. Most fish dishes are served with mashed potatoes from which you can get your carbs. Otherwise, the bread basket will do. BalıkEv is right by the indoor bazaar so you might want to stock up on some fresh fruits for later.

Eggs: Go for menemen (scrambled eggs with tomato and peppers) at Saray Muhallebicisi. If you like running by the Bosphorus, start from Bebek and have your post-workout meal at Yeniköy Kahvesiwhere you can enjoy a juicy menemen and some fresh bread in a relaxing atmosphere.

The Galata Evi, a small restaurant near the Galata Tower with excellent home-cooked food, can boast a unique location, being situated in the building known as the Eski İngiliz Karakolu or Old English Jail. For 15 years, beginning in 1904, this was a civil prison controlled by the British; after the first World War it turned into a military prison and remained such until 1923.

And yet this solemn gray stone building, with a bay window on the second floor, is strangely unobtrusive among all the old houses of Galata. It is the sort of place you could easily pass by in a hurry without registering – unless you looked upwards and saw its gabled roof (a rarity in Istanbul), or noticed the atypically thick moulding over the door and windows.

Whatever its ponderous exterior, the building is small inside, remindingone of themany Ottoman-era houses in Kadıköy that have been converted into bars or cafes. The atmosphere of the Galata Evi is intimate and friendly, and its patrons, Mete and Nadire Göktuğ, are happy to sit and chat with you for a while. This husband-and-wife pair has been running the restaurant since 1999; both are trained architects, and are extremely knowledgeable about the history of Galata and Istanbul in general.

There are several rooms on the first floor – a larger room which can hold 12 people, and a smaller one, with a fireplace, which can hold six. A door leads out back to a small inner courtyard; leading off the courtyard is the Galata Evi’s kitchen (unchanged from its days as an army canteen), and a thick metal door that once opened onto the prison’s interrogation room.

Even if you end up dining here, you must see the second floor, which is really the most interesting part of the Galata Evi. On the street side there is a larger room with paintings by local artists. On the rear side is a room that was formerly the prisoners’ dormitory: here you can see an unplastered wall with century-old graffiti made by former prisoners. Some of these are in English, marking the days (or months) the men have been in prison.

There is also an old German piano in this room, and if you come after 8:00 PM you can have the pleasure of hearing live performances by Mrs. Göktuğ, who sings songs in a variety of different languages including Turkish, Russian, and Tatar (her family is of Tatar origin.)

In the author’s opinion, the best place to eat at the Galata Evi (weather permitting) is on the terrace above the inner courtyard. The menu at the Galata Evi is small, but the food is superb, with Russian, Tatar, and especially Georgian dishes that are difficult to find elsewhere in Istanbul.

The Russian-ness of the menu announces itself immediately from the soup course – consisting of borscht – as well as from the blini on the appetizer list. On this visit we did not try either (though I made a mental note to order them next time), opting instead for the mixed meze plate. The meze too have a distinctly Russo-Caucasian flavor, with beets and ground walnuts figuring prominently in the lists of ingredients. Our meze plate came with no fewer than six different meze, one of which I can only describe as a kind of Russian sushi roll, consisting of walnut wrapped in eggplant, flavored with pepper and saffron. All were quite tasty: I especially liked the acılı peynir ezmesi (a mildly spicy paste of cheese and tomato), and the squash-and-yogurt salad flavored with dill.

For the main course, we ordered hingal mantı, a special Georgian variety of dumpling that seems about ten times larger than Turkish mantı. The hingal mantı’s savory meat filling, and the tangy tomato sauce served on the side, were perfect. Other main courses on the menu which I mean to try on future visits include Georgian Çakapuli (lamb stew with tarragon and plum sauce), Ostri (veal goulash with pepper, tomato, mushrooms and coriander), and Baje (stewed chicken thighs with walnut and saffron.)

The Galata Evi serves alcohol, including beer, Turkish and Georgian wines, and Russian vodka. For a quiet dinner in an intimate and unique setting, right in the center of the city, the Galata Evi is an excellent choice. Try it once – you’re sure to come back.

Istanbul Modern Cafe:This is a great option—and not just because it’s the closest restaurant! Istanbul Modern Cafe is known for its great panoramic views of the Old City and the Bosphorus. Its inventive menu features hot and cold appetizers, seafood, pasta, and meat dishes. Perfect for lunch and dinner, or a quick coffee break.

Fasuli:Fasuli is an esnaf (tradesman’s) restaurant specializing in dishes from the Eastern Black Sea region. Their signature dish is fasulye & pilav (beans and rice). Bu they also have soups, zetinyağlı (olive-oil based) dishes, and grilled meats.

Karaköy Lokantası:Located on a small street behind the Karaköy shipping docks, Karaköy Lokantası offers delicious Turkish cuisine at reasonable prices. The menu changes daily, but lunchtime favorites often include thehünkar beğendi, a dish of slow-cooked beef served on a bed of smoky eggplant puree, andızgara süt kuzu pirzola(grilled baby lamp chops). For dinner,there is a wide variety of mezes on offer, as well as grilled fish and meat dishes.Keep in mind that in the evening the atmosphere is more like ameyhane(Turkish tavern).

Lokanta Maya:If you want local, regional, and seasonal food, Lokanta Mayais the place to go. For a detailed review, click here.

Akın Balık:A humble fish restaurantset right by the base of the Galata Bridge in Karaköy, Akın Balık is a great spot for a long dinner with mezes, fish, and rakı.

Tarihi Karaköy Balıkçısı: If you want fresh fish in an upscale environment with a fantastic view, Tarihi Karaköy Balıkçısı is the place to go. Kağıtta levrek (seabass cooked in paper) and fish soup are must try's.

Lokanta Maya’s dynamic menu reflects this ideal, changing between lunch and dinner, from one day to the next, from one season to the other. The zeytinyağlı (olive oil based) dishes and soups change daily and are written on the blackboard. Lunch menus are lighter and carry a slightly more home-cooking style, whereas dinner menus are heavier and revolve around mezes. The seasonal changes affect the menu as well—lighter dishes take the lead during summer, while slightly heavier dishes are on during winter.

The foremost deciding factor of what’s on the menu is the ingredients. Chef and owner Didem Şenol goes in search for the freshest, most seasonal products, and creates a daily menu based on them.

Istanbul does not offer the best of every ingredient so Şenol reaches far and wide—but always within the borders of Turkey. For example, bread travels from the city of Bolu from the Black Sea Region, while olive oil travels from the southwestern city of Marmaris.

Although the majority of dishes on the menu are inspired from Aegean and Mediterranean cuisines, the menu is varied enough to include specialties from other regions of Turkey, such as hamsi (anchovy) from the Black Sea Region.

Just like the menu, the venue is quite contemporary, too. The minimal décor features a stand by the entrance filled with Turkish spices. The rustic tables, especially the long communal one in the middle, give quite a homey feel. The little details make all the difference in this simple but tasteful interior, like the fresh flowers on each table and the cool hanging lamps. The walls are covered with shelves of books and walnuts. Yes walnuts. An entire wall is covered with what looks like thousands of walnuts held behind metal wires. We don’t know why but we know it works.

What really sets Maya Lokanta apart is definitely the food. We wanted to get a taste of more than one region so we started off with Mücver, salatalıklı yoğurt sos (fried vegetable patties with yogurt-mint-cucumber sauce). This classic dish had taken a truly original turn with the sauce that matched the crunchy-but-still-juicy patty. The beetroot salad (with greens, hazelnut, orange rind, and cheese) was light and refreshing. Although a very classic dish like mücver, the çıtır hamsi (fried anchovy) had a similiar twist to it as it was served with aioli with lemon and dill. To finish off, I went for the home-made lemonade instead of dessert. Would it suffice if I say I would buy a take-away bottle if it was possible?

It’s the practice of consuming unprocessed, uncooked, and mostly organic foods as the main part of your diet. The practice is quite new to Turkey and it’s not as widespread or popular as it is in other countries like the US.

Whether you managed to keep your bikini-body throughout the summer or caved into Piña Coladas bythe beach, a thorough detox will do wonders for your body and mind. And how will you do that? With a raw vegan diet by Saf Box.

What is Saf Box?

Saf Box is a nutrition program made of raw vegan food. Before you click away from the page, listen up. When I say raw vegan, I mean delicious, healthy, and tempting. Intrigued?

Prepared by Japanese chef Maiko Amemia and raw food chef Nihat Güden, the Saf Box menus are based on raw vegetables and fruits, and include wraps, soups, salads, nuts, snacks, and nutritional supplements. The meals are intended to boost the immune system and revitalize the body. The low-calorie, high-nutritional-value foods are cooked in special ovens under 40 °C, placed in neat boxes, which you can pick up from The LifeCo Detox Center. If you prefer, you can get them delivered to your doorstep for a small delivery fee. All you have to do to rid your body of toxins or get in shape is to eat what’s in the box. Easy as that.

What’s on offer?

The packages are prepared daily and include freshly-squeezed juices, breakfast, lunch, dinner, high-fiber snacks, and nutritional supplements.

What you won’t have...

Sugar, butter, salt, flour. These will be replaced with healthier alternatives, such as walnut oil, Himalayan crystal salt, and linseed.

And it will taste good?

We’ve tried the box for two days and we loved it. The carrot cake, raw crackers, edamame, and sautéed vegetable wrap are among our favorites.

What about the supplements?

You’ll get three nutritional supplements to accompany the three main meals. In the morning, you’ll have nettle and seaweed, which will help boost your metabolism rate and burn fat throughout the day. The lunch supplements will ease your digestion so that your body can use its energy to renew itself. The dinner supplements will also help with digestion while also boosting your immune system.

Why should you do it?

Because you won’t have to bother shopping for ingredients, preparing meals, or counting calories. And because you will feel healthy and energetic.

How to get the box?

Call (0212) 346 16 59 or 0532 552 37 37.

Related Contents

Healthy Restaurants in Istanbul; by Aylin Erman

Bodrum: The Pleasant Path to Nirvana; by Talya Arditi

Good news for fans of Italian food in Istanbul. The renowned eatery Piola – with restaurants all over the globe in both hemispheres – has just revamped its menu. Piola’s first branch in Turkey opened last year, in the Point Hotel Barbaros in Esentepe, and has become popular among Istanbul diners for its pizzas, pastas, antipasti, and meat and fish dishes. Now there are several tasty new additions to the restaurant’s already impressive menu.

Piola has a selection of several dozen different pizzas, featuring such unconventional ingredients as tuna, potatoes, and eggs, and not just mozzarella cheese, but also brie, gorgonzola, and ricotta. Piola also makes varieties of pizza both with and without tomato sauce (to all those self-described purists who would not deign to eat pizza without sauce, consider this: the tomato only became common in Italian cuisine in the 18th century, so tomato-less "white" pizza has an older lineage.) Now, two more pizzas have joined the Piola roster: Pompei, a pizza made with "explosively" hot Italian sausage, and Beirut, topped with zucchini, walnut, and dill.

Piola's smaller, but equally delicious repertory of pastas (including potato gnocchi) has likewise been augmented by the addition of Pappardelle Cortina, made with mushrooms, cream, and Grana Padano cheese. For less adventurous types, or fussy eaters, for whom pasta must be accompanied with tomato sauce, Piola's menu obliges with several kinds of tomato-covered spaghetti, maccheroni, and penne.

There is more to Italian food than pizza and pasta, of course. Chicken Piola, bearing the name of the restaurant, is a delicious dish of lemon-sautéed chicken breast, served with puréed celery, mushrooms, and asparagus. Chicken Ciccioli -- a nod, perhaps, to fusion cuisine by this otherwise Italocentric eatery -- is made with curry sauce and rice, giving it a decidedly Indian inflection.

For an appetizer, you could try old favorites like bruschetta, or the visually appealing, tri-color caprese (tomato, mozarella, and basil); or the restaurant's new, creatively-named Calvino salad, made with slices of sirloin steak. (Why the salad is named after Italo Calvino is anyone's guess.)

Piola's desserts called Monterosa and Montenero -- respectively made from panna cotta and strawberry sauce, and panna cotta and chocolate sauce -- are in line with their penchant for visual symbolism in their dishes. (The first name means "Rose Mountain," the second, "Black Mountain.") Their dessert menu now includes the always-popular profiteroles: Piola's version of the dessert, made with vanilla ice cream and chocolate sauce, is the perfect finale to a sumptuous meal at this restaurant.

To experience excellent Italian food in a chic, modernist setting, by all means try Piola. If you've already been there, and need an excuse to come back for another visit, now -- thanks to their new menu -- you have one.

Lucca has long been one of the most popular restaurants in the upscale Bebek neighborhood. Walk past here on any weekend and you’re sure to see the stylish crowd spilling out onto the sidewalk. Not ones to rest on their laurels, they are constantly updating the menu with new and inventive dishes.

Now there is one more reason to visit Lucca on the weekends – their updated brunch menu. Starting on September 4, on Sundays from 10:00 to 3:00 you can enjoy a brunch menu that brings together the best of Turkish and international cuisine. The menu includes dishes such as Quail Egg Crostini, Hash Browns, Pancakes with fruit, and the Lucca Scramble, made with organic eggs, all prepared with the highest quality local ingredients. To accompany your meal you can enjoy one of the delicious fruity brunch cocktails such as a Bellini or Mimosa, just don’t forget to make reservations!

It’s hardly necessary to give detailed directions to Hamdi Restaurant: all you have to do is get off at the Eminönü tram stop, and look up. The well-loved Istanbul eatery is almost as much of a fixture on the Haliç skyline as the Mosque of Süleyman.

Located on the same square as the Yeni Cami and the Mısır Çarşısı, Hamdi started off more than 40 years ago as a small köfte (meatball) stand, and now occupies an entire five-floor building. On the first floor you can find Turkish delight, baklava, and various kinds of tea for sale; the middle three levels have enclosed seating for large numbers of people, including a VIP room for private parties. The fifth and most scenic floor is the roof terrace. It is here that we ate when we visited Hamdi.

The first thing that strikes you when you get off the elevator on the roof is the amazing panoramic view, thanks to the floor-to-ceiling glass windows that give this airy space the feel of a greenhouse. The 180-degree-plus view starts with the Süleymaniye and Rüstempaşa mosques, and continues past the Golden Horn and Galata Tower, the Bosphorus (and Bosphorus Bridge), and the Asian coast as far as Üsküdar.

The restaurant’s eponymous founder Hamdi Arpacı (who still makes a point of visiting his restaurant every day) is from Southeast Anatolia, and the cuisine on offer reflects Mr. Arpacı’s heritage in numerous ways – from the baskets of lavaş (flatbread tortilla) rather than leavened bread, to the bottles of pomegranate syrup on display everywhere, to the garnishes of parsley, to the use of pistachio in both main dishes and desserts.

Unfortunately we did not have a chance to try Hamdi’s fıstıklı kebap (pistachio kebab) which some friends had recommended. Instead, we opted for the patlıcan kebap (kebab with eggplant, cooked on a thick metal skewer), one of 17 varieties of kebab currently on Hamdi’s menu. While we were waiting for our kebab, we whetted our appetites with some küçük spesiyal lahmacun, coaster-sized lahmacuns with pomegranate syrup and bits of walnut. The taste was somewhat subtler than we had expected – but then, with a main course on the way, it was probably wiser not to overwhelm our palates with the strong tang of lahmacun.

The main dish came apace, and was superb. Hamdi’s patlıcan kebap, like a lot of their kebabs, is made with a 50-50 mixture of lamb and veal, resulting in a meat blend that is both softer in texture and more delicate in odor and taste. Many Turkish kebabs are intended to be eaten without any kind of sauce, making it crucial that the meat be as juicy and flavorful as possible. Our patlıcan kebap succeeded in this sense, being moist without actually dripping fluid. The thick chunks of eggplant alternating in tandem with the meat – like the tomatoes served on the side – were perfectly singed on the exterior but eminently fresh within.

Pistachio puts in an appearance in most of Hamdi’s desserts, all of which are home-made. Particularly recommended is the gelin bohçası or “bride’s bundle,” so named because its customary shape resembles that of a cloth tied at all four ends, containing the possessions Turkish brides used to take with them to their future husbands’ houses. Made with pistachio-laced dough and filled with kaymak (clotted cream), the dessert – unlike some varieties of baklava – is sweet but not sickly sweet. (Hamdi’s renowned katmer, consisting of superimposed layers of pastry dough, pistachio, and kaymak, is also available after 6:00 PM.)

Alcohol is served at Hamdi; there is a takeout restaurant on the ground floor for those in a hurry, as well as a köfte restaurant two doors down for those in search of a simpler and quicker meal. If you are in Eminönü around lunchtime or dinnertime, it would be a crime not to eat at Hamdi at least once.

Tips:

- If you want to try Hamdi’s testi kebabı (a kebab cooked in an earthenware jug), you need to order it when making a reservation, at least four hours in advance.

- If you’re holding a big party, you can order Hamdi’s ceremonial kolbaşı, a kebab that can reach up to one meter in length.

- Döner kebap and İskender kebap are only available between 12 PM and 2:30 PM.

The restaurant’s ‘modern-Ottoman’ menu was designed by executive chef Hakan Arslan and creative culinary artist Bryon Ayanoğlu. A nice way to start your meal is with the Istanbul Appetizer Plate which is a selection of spreads that include hydari, a thick and garlicky yogurt dip, humus, kozlenmis patlican, which has a nice smoky flavor and cerkez tavuk, which was a bit lighter and with more texture than usual. You can also try the Plate Of Anatolian Olive Oil Vegetable Specialties which offers a selection of olive oil braised vegetables which are prepared just how they should be - very tender, but bursting with flavors.

If you want to try a warm appetizer and are in the mood for something different, try the Ottoman Palace Ravioli “Piruhi”. Although the menu refers to this dish as a variation on manti, it is far bigger than the traditional variety and flat, filled with crumbly cheese and topped with a brown butter and walnut sauce. Very filling, a portion is best shared by the table.

For a main dish I had the sea bass baked in parchment paper, which was very tender with the lemon slices and cherry tomatoes creating a flavorful broth, while my companion had one of the kebabs, served on a bed of thin, crisply fried potato pieces. As for desserts, there are several traditional Turkish and more European-inspired items on offer, but the star of the menu is the “Levzine” a type of almond helva served with a sweet sherbet, flavored with cinnamon. Whether you need a break from sightseeing or just want to enjoy an dazzling view of the city’s skyline, Olive restaurant is a great place to enjoy some Ottoman cuisine in Sultanahmet.

The team behind Da Mario, Zuma, Anjelique, and several other top-notch restaurants has recently opened Carlotta—a concept venue that encompasses a restaurant, deli, and cafe all in one. Located in the business district of Maslak, this weekday-only venue is the ideal place for a quick and healthy lunch for solo diners as well as small groups.

Spread over two floors and a small outside seating area, Carlotta can be summarized with three words: healthy, delicious, and reasonably-priced. They offer a variety of dishes to cater to a wide range of diners. The menu includes sandwiches, wraps, salads, tarts, desserts, and baked goods—including simit (Turkish version of bagel), croissants, muffins, and Turkish-style savory buns. They also sell jams, granola bars, biscotti, and Belgian chocolate. Their jams are made in the southern city of Bodrum, and include such flavors as mastic-apple, Bodrum mandarin, raspberry, and sour cherry. Their Belgian chocolate range also features interesting flavors, such as lavender.

As you enter Carlotta, you’ll see a deli-style display on your right where you can have a look at what’s on offer and pick what you like—which may turn out to be a difficult task as everything on display looks quite appetizing. You can either eat at the small, round tables by the left of the entrance, go upstairs for a more spacious setting (although the view is not much of a sight), and during warm days you can enjoy your food on the benches and tables outside.

The Guide Team has already been to Carlotta twice, and got to try most of what’s on the menu. From the salad section, we had Annemin Buğday Salatası (made with wheat; nuts; pomegranate seeds; and dried figs, apricot, and cranberry), Fidji (made with wild rice, almonds, capers, pomegranate seeds, and fresh oregano), Osaka (made with marinated chicken, Mexican beans, Edamame, almonds, walnuts, and cherry tomatoes), Izgara Sebze (mixed grilled vegetables with balsamic vinegar), and Akdenizli Orzo (made with orzo, dried tomatoes, and fresh basil). All salads were fresh and delicious. The BBQ Tavuk Pita (made with grilled chicken, pickle, tomato, greens, and BBQ sauce) was the healthy version of tavuk döner (roasted chicken sold at Turkish fast-food joints) and was very tasty. We suggest you finish off your meal with an apple crumble pie.

Carlotta offers delivery services in Maslak. But even if you’re not working in the Maslak area, Carlotta is well worth a car ride for either a sit-in or take-away lunch. For healthy dining at reasonable prices with great flavors, Carlotta is the way to go!

For American-style ice-cream, get a cup of Ben & Jerry’s or Häagen-Dazs. Our favorites are Chocolate Fudge Brownie and Cookie Dough from Ben & Jerry’s and Rocky Road and Cookies & Cream from Häagen-Dazs.

Some like it creamy, some like it fruity, some like it with chocolate on top, and some just don’t discriminate. Istanbul is filled with a variety of ice-cream shops, from the recently opened Italians to the decades old classic Turkish ones. Here are the best scoops you’ll get around town:

Migone: If your diet is strictly organic or you just love a good ice-cream, try Migone’s inventive flavors, such as blueberry, after eight, rose, and cinnamon. If you’re not satisfied with just a cone, have the ice-cream sandwich made with kağıt helva (Turkish-style, round wafers) and your choice of ice-cream.Küçük Bebek Caddesi No.11, Bebek; P: (0212) 263 06 86

Dondurmacı Ali Usta: Be prepared to wait a long line for the goodies at Ali Usta. Almond, vanilla, and tutti frutti flavors are especially raved about.Moda Caddesi No.264/A, Kadiköy; P: (0216) 414 18 80

Dondurmacı Yaşar Usta: Yaşar Usta has been around since the 1970s with his no-preservatives real-fruit ice-cream. We suggest you try the melon and strawberry flavors.Ali Nihat Tarlan Caddesi No.34/2, Bostancı; P: (0216) 575 28 20

Cremeria Milano: For a true Italian ice-cream, try Cremeria Milano’s traditionally-made, natural ice-cream. Their bitter chocolate is arguably the best you’ll ever have. Their creative flavors, such as baileys and vanilla-nutella-wafer, are irresistible too.Cevdetpaşa Caddesi No.34/D, Bebek; P: 0212 265 80 50

Mini Dondurma: A classic of Bebek since it opened its tiny window in 1968, the four-square-meter shop’s mastic, sour cherry, and caramel flavors are fantastic. If you have a sudden midnight craving for ice-cream, keep in mind that Mini Dondurma stays open until 3am.Cevdetpaşa Caddesi No.38/A, Bebek; P: (0212) 257 10 70

Giolitti: Italy’s 100-year-old ice-cream brand Giolitti is known for its fruity flavors. If you’re looking for something a little more hard-core, go for the banana split.Asmalı Mescit Mahallesi Tünel Meydanı No.186, Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 251 85 22

Girandola: If you want to try interesting flavors like pumpkin, grape, or even whisky-chocolate, head to Girandola.Bebek Arnavutköy Caddesi No. 109, Arnavutköy; P: (0212) 265 26 29

L’era Fresca: This two-month-old ice-cream shop sells 100\\% natural ice-cream without any preservatives. We suggest their tahina-and-walnut and pistachio flavors.Cevdet Paşa Caddesi No. 43/B, Bebek; P: (0212) 257 03 03

Mua Gelatieri d'Italia: Exercise caution before you try their chili chocolate ice-cream—there’s a reason why it’s called chili! Their not-too-sour lemon is quite creamy and it’s definitely a must-try. Don’t miss out on the chocolate and hazelnut, too.Köybaşı Caddesi No.126/B, Yeşilköy; P: (0212) 299 84 84

Maraş Dondurması: The story goes that ice-cream was originally discovered in Turkey’s southeastern region of Kahramanmaraş. Usually referred to as Maraş Dondurması, this type is quite thick as it’s usually made with goat’s milk and salep (grinded root of orchid). When you walk around Istanbul, you’ll come across men dressed in traditional clothing who swing ice-cream around—sounds weird but you’ll know what I mean when you see it. Just walk up to him, order a cone, and see what happens!

Tarihi Veli Dondurmacısı: If you’re after a nostalgic experience, head to Tarihi Veli Dondurmacısı, which has been around for more than half a century. Yeniköy Caddesi No.18, Tarabya; P: (0212) 299 21 43

The Best from Further Afield

Although many new ice-cream shops opened up in Büyükada in recent years, the favorite among the residents is the Roma Dondurmacısı. Caramel, sour cherry, lemon, pistachio… they are all so tasty! Just walk towards the big clock from the vapur (ferry) stop, and you’ll see the ice-cream shop on your left. While you’re in Büyükada, look out for the white-and-red ice-cream carts around the island as well—they sell daily-made, natural, rose-shaped ice-cream. Definitely try the peach and melon.

If you’re heading towards Çınarcık/Yalova, stop by Roma Dondurma (which has no relation to the one in Büyükada) for a cone of mastic flavored ice-cream. Just give them a call when you’re in the area, and they’ll be happy to help you with directions. (Phone: 0226 245 22 84)

If your summer holidays are spent in Çeşme or Bodrum, we know exactly where you need to go to cool down. With over 30 different flavors, you’ll surely find something to satisfy your cravings at Veli Usta Dondurmacısı. Veli Usta began selling ice-cream from a little cart in 1983 in Çeşme. Today, the company grew to open several branches around Çeşme and İzmir. (Veli Usta Dondurmacısı, phone: 0232 723 12 73)

İmren has been a favorite among locals since it opened up shop in 1941. Get a cone of their mastic-flavored ice-cream in one of their branches in central Alaçatı and don’t forget to buy a pack of their mastic-flavored cookies to take home as well. (Address: Tokoğlu mah. Kemalpaşa cad. no:65, Alaçatı. Phone: 0232 716 83 56)

Bitez Dondurma and Türkbükü Doğal Dondurma are two local favorite ice-cream shops in Bodrum. Both shops make their ice-cream with 100\\% natural ingredients. Try apricot and honey-and-almond at Bitez, and go for the mastic, brandy, and black mulberry flavors at Türkbükü Doğal Dondurma. (Bitez Dondurma has several branches around Bodrum. Give them a call at 0252 363 93 45 to get the address of your nearest branch. Türkbükü Doğal Dondurma is located at Menemene Mah. İnönü Cad. No: 49, Türkbükü, Bodrum. You can call them at 0252 377 63 13.)

This article was updated on May 17, 2012.

Located on a residential street in Levent, Harem is a recently-opened restaurant that offers a refuge from the hectic city life with its relaxing garden. Unlike the name suggests, Harem’s decoration is quite modern and the menu is a mix of Turkish and international fare without a focus on a particular cuisine. Set by the entrance of this one-story venue, the comfy corner on the left looks just like the patio of a friend’s house where you could spend hours chatting away, while the big round table on the right seems ideal for a get-together with the whole office. Even though the entire garden is nice and breezy, the tables in the back take advantage from the extra shade.

Despite the fact that the venue is so appealing due to its calm and quiet atmosphere as well as its excellent service, the food is not on par with the venue’s other features.Still, Harem would make for a great spot for a coffee break with a friend.

Walking down any one of Istanbul’s busy boardwalks or back roads is sure to evoke a sense ofbeing in not only one of the most vibrant cultural capitals of the world but also in one of the most diverse, plentiful, and drool-worthy food capitals. And make no mistake—Istanbul’s street-side vendors, cafes, and restaurants are lacquered with excessive meat, bread, and sugar. Whether it is white pita stuffed with döner (thinly-sliced lamb) and dripping with animal fat or thick, chewable ice-cream served festively by a traditionally-garbed street vendor, there is indeed a road to dietary ruin in Istanbul.

As a visitor, biting into all that Turkish cuisine has to offer is an excursion in and of itself. Many tourists leave Istanbul having not been able to clean off the last of their meze (Turkish-style appetizers) plates or forked their way through the seemingly endless variations of lamb. What visitors often do leave with, however, is a tighter waist-belt.

Long-time residents of the city also find themselves stuck in the ease of thoughtless, quick eating. Döner today becomes döner tomorrow, the next day, and then every day after that. A bite of baklava (sweet pastry with nuts) suddenly becomes a daily midnight ritual. Today, it’s almost impossible to believe Turkey’s regional reputation for its abundantly fresh and locally-sourced fruits and vegetables or the country’s health-conscious dishes ever existed in the first place. The truth is—they live on!

Look no further than in and around Taksim to get a true taste of Turkey, but without the guilt. Practically on the square itself, Parsifal and Zencefil are among the best of Istanbul’s vegetarian scene. Just doors away from one another, the two draw in similar crowds and feature similar menu items—complementary bread baskets, large salads, vegetable-based soups, no-skimp entrees, and vegetarian mainstays, such as veggie burgers. After its delicious food, Zencefil’s atmosphere is its strongest point, with an indoor garden that provides a quiet reprieve and delicate ambiance that does justice to the food it serves. Parsifal’s atmosphere is unimpressive, but its food is rich, dense, and sure to satisfy even a skeptical meat lover.

Moments away from Parsifal and Zencefil, in a backstreet just off the other side of Istiklal, lies Govinda—one of the few Indian-inspired restaurants in the city. Many of the menu items are fried, such as the pakora (fried battered vegetables) and samosas (fried vegetable-stuffed pastries), but the restaurant’s use of unique spices and flavors unbeknownst to the average person make every bite worthwhile. Un-fried vegetables are plentiful in Govinda’s salads and soups. The must-have beverage is the lassi—a fragrant yogurt and fruit concoction.

Only a short walk away from Taksim and into Cihangir, Cuppa is a health foodie’s euphoria. The menu is packed with raw fresh fruit and vegetable juices and smoothies. The menu features breakfast, lunch, and dinner fare, but it’s the beverages that make the venue worth the visit.

A detour from Taksim brings one to Beşiktaş, a student-ridden area that implies cheaper grub and a more laid-back, local-inspired setting. The Loving Hut is the health gem of this area. Transparency is key here, with everything made at the counter fresh and with love by the smiling owner and head chef. The menu covers all bases, but it’s the falafel that takes the crown.

MaxGreen.Cois Akmerkez shopping mall’s crowned jewel. The café is a mere self-service stand, offering seating in the mall’s food court. The menu, however, is quality, with raw fruit and vegetable juices and smoothies, salads, and entrees consisting of hard-to-find, health-facilitating ingredients and supplements. The raw desserts are devoid of sugar, flour, and butter as well as the after-the-fact regret. Stock up on kombucha, a fermented drink that is conducive to digestion and detoxing, and other supplements while you’re there.

Not too far from MaxGreen Co. is Akatlar, where you’ll find The LifeCo detox center and the high-end sports center Club Sporium. Located on the ground floor of Club Sporium, Saf restaurant is a raw food establishment that does not heat food above 48°C. The entire menu is a unique experience, from the restaurant’s take on traditional dürüm (roasted lamb wrapped in tortilla-like thin bread) to its venture into raw sushi. While a bit on the pricey side, the experience is well worth the extra buck.

Looking between the lines and it becomes clear, quite quickly, that Istanbul is not only a meat-eater’s paradise but also a health-lover’s. Find organic produce at the Feriköy Halk Pazarı if cooking at home or try one of the suggested restaurants. You don’t need to compromise your health for a fulfilling Istanbul experience.

For an authentic and appetizing iftar dinner, here are a few options:

Asitane: Asitane’s traditional Ottoman cuisine provides a special iftar menu in the ambiance of Old Istanbul for a fixed price of 70 TL per person. With a selection of classic dishes including vişneli yalancı sarma (stuffed grape leaves with sour cherry) and domatesde köz patlıcan (roasted tomatoes in marinated eggplant) as well as a selection of Ottoman şerbet (fruit sherbet), you can partake in this ceremonial meal in accordance with tradition. Finish off your meal with a portion of güllaç (traditional milky pastry dessert made with pomegranate) or vişneli ekmek tatlısı (bread pudding with sour cherry).

Konyalı at Kanyon Shopping Mall: The traditions of Konyalı go back to the year 1897, and who better to trust with your special meal than one of Istanbul’s veteran eateries? For a fixed price of 90 TL per person, start off with a platter of traditional iftar samplers consisting of olives, cheese, and figs, and gradually move on to the heavier entrees. We recommend you try a glass of their complimentary sherbet selections—kiwi, sour cherry, peach, and apple are just a few of the available options. The main dishes range from pirzola (lamb chops) to Hünkâr Beyendi (literally Sultan’s pleasure, made of stuffed eggplant with lamb stew). We suggest you finish off your meal with Konyalı’s famous baklava (sweet pastry with nuts).

Hünkar in Nişantaşı: Hünkar Restaurant has found its location in Nişantaşı to be more than attractive to those wishing to dine in stylish nostalgia. Come time for iftar season, Hünkar presents an a la carte selection along with a fixed menu that includes kadınbudu köfte (fried meatballs with rice dipped in batter), different rice selections, su böreği (pastry with cheese and parsley filling) as well as Hünkâr Beyendi (stuffed eggplant with lamb stew). Finish off with the classic irmik helvası (semolina halvah) for a total of 75 TL per diner.

Borsa in Kandilli: Bringing the excitement of iftar to the Asian side, Borsa Kandilli presents a special Ramadan menu that starts off with a platter of samplers like figs, pide (Ramadan challah bread), and Kayseri pastırması (Turkish-style pastrami from the city of Kayseri in central Turkey) followed by classic meat dishes like döner kebap (thinly-sliced lamb) and kuzu tandır (lamb tandoori). Don’t skip their tasty dessert selections that range from irmik tatlısı (semolina halvah) to güllaç (traditional milky pastry dessert made with pomegranate). With a fixed menu price of 120 TL per person, Borsa’s iftar is a luxurious way to celebrate a traditional meal with friends and family.

Olive Restaurant: Old Istanbul provides a special feel to any iftar meal, and Olive Restaurant in Topkapı makes the best of this. They offer three iftar menus (all of which are 65 TL per person) with rich starters of iftar essentials that include figs, pastırma (Turkish pastrami), honey, and a variety of nuts. Each menu is followed by a soup, salad, kebab dishes, and dessert. Tables overlooking the classical atmosphere of old Istanbul during Ramadan fill up quickly, and we strongly recommend you make reservations beforehand. We especially recommend the rose sherbet, which is complimentary with all iftar menus.

Nar Lokantası: Serving traditional Turkish cuisine in a cool and modern environment, Nar Restaurant's iftar begins with a breakfast platter that continues with three separate main courses—chicken, sautéed lamb, and steamed sea bass. To satisfy your cravings in between the starters and main courses, we suggest you try their lentil soup and mantı (Turkish mini-dumplings). With a fixed menu price of 55 TL per person, have a satisfying iftar dinner in Nar’s warm environment.

We strongly suggest you call and make reservations at each of these eateries as iftar is a very crowded time of year, and Istanbul’s hotspots are often booked in advance.

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Traditional Iftar Dinners at Hotel Restaurants

Why Go There?

This is the area where the Marmara Sea and the Black Sea merge, offering fantastic views that you can’t see anywhere else in the city. You don’t have to dress to impress as the area is quite humble and low-key and whatever you eat or buy won’t hurt your budget. You’ll get a chance to mix in with the locals while enjoying lots of calm and quiet, a bit of sea breeze, and high-quality fresh fish. All you need is a car, a few friends, and a few hours to chillax.

When to Go?

Spring and summer are the best times of the year to go as the area tends to be quite windy. You can choose to go early in the morning and have breakfast there, or go later in the day for lunch or dinner.

How to Get There?

We suggest you take the longer but more scenic coastal road starting from Bebek, passing through İstinye, Yeniköy, and Sarıyer. As you head towards Kilyos from Sarıyer, you’ll see signs that direct you towards Rumelifeneri, Rumeli Kavağı, and Garipçe.

Suggested Route: Garipçe – Rumelifeneri – Rumeli Kavağı

If you head out early in the morning, stop by Meşhur Sarıyer Börekçisi in Sarıyer (check out the video here) for a take-away breakfast of börek (a kind of pastry)—we suggest the kıymalı (with meat) for the carnivorous and the şekerli (sprinkled with powdered sugar) for vegetarians. Alternatively, you can have a buffet breakfast when you reach Garipçe.

Populated largely by immigrants from the Black Sea region, Garipçe is a tiny and humble fisherman’s village made up of just a few restaurants. What you find at Garipçe may catch you by surprise as it’s quite extraordinary to reach a much less civilized, cute little village 30 minutes to an hour away (depending on traffic) from the cosmopolitan city of Istanbul. There’s not much to do around the village except for enjoying the wonderful views, the fresh air, and fresh fish. One option is Aydın Balık Restaurant located just by the water’s edge. In fact, you need to watch out for the harsh waves as you can get a bit wet from the spray. Aydın serves a variety of hot appetizers, such as fish soup and calamari, and low-priced, high-quality, fresh fish. Asmaaltı Restaurant is located in what used to be a 130-year-old bakery. Don’t turn up your nose because it doesn’t have a view of the water; it’s soothing garden, covered with leafy trees, is just as revitalizing as sitting by the waterside. In addition to a variety of fresh fish, Asmaaltı also boasts regional Black Sea specialties, such as mıhlama (a dish made with cornmeal, string cheese from the Black Sea region, and butter). Keep in mind that none of the restaurants in Garipçe or Rumelifeneri serve alcohol so if you want rakı or beer to accompany your meal, head instead to one of the restaurants in Rumeli Kavağı.

After your stop in Garipçe, drive to Rumelifeneri and check out the lighthouse. You’ll find threerestaurants there: Barınak, Mendirek, and Roke. Although Roke was torn down a while ago, an open-air area is still being used. If you want to wait until you get to Rumeli Kavağı for your meal, just top by Mendirek and have a serving of their famous fried mussels.

If you’re up for some adventure, make a pit stop at the remains of the Rumeli Kavağı castle. You can hike up the walls of the castle, take a good look at the Black Sea, then go inside the walls and try to imagine what went on there in the centuries past. Behind the castle, you can sit by the rocks, listen to the sound of the waves hitting the shore. Hey, you can even assume the lotus position and elevate yourself to a state of “Aum.”

By this time, you should be getting hungry again, as all that fresh air can work up an appetite. At Rumeli Kavağı, you have quite a few options to choose from. One option is Ayder Restaurant set right by the water. The view is fantastic—the sea with a background of mountains. But it’s not just the view or the down-to-earth atmosphere that makes Ayder a great lunch spot. The mezes are all top-notch and the fish is as fresh as it can get. When ordering, ask the waiter what’s in season.

Decorated with fisherman’s nets, hanging turbots, photos of celebrity clients and their thank-you notes, Balıkçı Kahraman is one of the most famous fish restaurants of the area. Even though it doesn’t have a view of the sea, the quality of the fish compensates for the lack of ambiance—especially the turbot is a must try! The other options are İskele Balık Restaurant and Gelişli Balık Restaurant, which both feature beautiful views of the Black Sea along with fresh fish, tasty mezes, and low-key surroundings.

The Final Note

Either follow our suggested route or make up your own combination but definitely spend some time in this area to relax, de-stress, and have some fun.

BREAK UP: Leb-i derya

Unfortunately, a good break up doesn’t exist. All break ups suck, don’t they? Well, they don’t have to. Where and how you break up could make all the difference. When you’re going to have that big “It’s not you, it’s me” speech, the location will play a serious role in determining how the night will go. If you are all alone at home, things could get pretty nasty and you definitely don’t want to be the one cleaning up broken glasses. First rule of the break up speech: take the soon-to-be-ex out somewhere public. The perfect place for a break up is a casual dinner with a view that could relax even the most strained nerves. At Leb-i derya (either at the Richmond Hotel or in Tünel), the fantastic view can steal the scene and the tourist crowd can serve as the ideal distraction. If you go to the one at Richmond Hotel, order a cosmopolitan. In Tünel, order the Tiramisu Martini. Always remember: it’s the last party for two, keep it classy.

MAKE UP: White Mill / Backyard

The day has finally come. The never-ending break-up period is coming to an end—as long as you can manage to woo your ex and convince him/her that everything will be perfect this time around. All you have to do is take a deep breath, invite him/her out to dinner, and hope for the best. But which restaurant will do the trick in your make-up date? All you need (besides love of course) is to find a calm and peaceful place that will make both of you feel at home. White Mill in Cihangir and Backyard in Etiler will definitely do the trick. Find a table on the garden at Backyard, order the endorphin-increasing Devil’s Food Cake, and sip some Vodka Satsuma. Go to White Mill in the afternoon, sit under the trees, relax with a glass of Gypsy (vodka with blackberry and mulberry juice), and give the speech (that you’ve obviously practiced over and over again) with great enthusiasm. And remember, flowers work on any girl!

MEET UP: Nu Teras

Cool, smart, and sexy. This is what Nu Teras is about. It’s like the entire in-crowd decided meet up in the city’s hottest nightclub. The doorman doesn’t get the “I’m on the list” trick. Don’t even try that. All you need to do to get in is to look fresh and sexy. When you’re in, forget all the rules of the game. (They don’t really work anyways.) Just hit the bar, order your favorite drink, and start checking out the crowd. The rest is up to the night, not you.

CHEER UP: Limonata / Pop-Up

Once you enter Limonata in City’s shopping mall, you will forget about your to-do-list. At Limonata, your inner child will come alive. It’s seriously a dream come true, in Charlie and the Chocolate Factory style. Enjoy the dessert buffet, and try their lemonade (with a bit of alcohol, of course). If Çapa-style entertainment is not your thing, try somewhere more artsy to cheer yourself up. Run by the admired theater crew DOT, Pop Up is very much an oasis of relaxation with the microphone allowing for impromptu theater practices and the ever-tempting karaoke parties. With Frank-Miller-like cartoons on the walls and edgy magazines and books on tables, Pop-Up is one of the best feel-good spots in town.

Although much smaller than its supposed Beyoğlu counterpart, this ex-dolmuş-stop is now a pedestrian-only street offering a bunch of eat-on-the-sidewalk spots for after-work meet-ups and weekend-hang-outs.

You be the judge when you check out Atiye Sokak, if you haven’t done so yet. Here is the lowdown on what the street has in store.

Elio: If long dinner-and-drinks is on schedule, Elio is a great choice, offering Mediterranean cuisine with a serious Italian focus. Owned by ex-prime-minister Mesut Yılmaz’s sons Hasan and Yavuz Yılmaz, Elio is located right next to Hardal, owned by the other ex-prime-minister Tansu Çiller’s son Mert Çiller. Mere coincidence or sly political race, we don’t know.

Hardal: Frequented by the young and cool crowd, Hardal offers a colorful and casual atmosphere that is ideal for a night of beer and fries. If you’re in for a solid meal, there are over 15 hamburger choices. Although great for lunch and dinner, the restaurant gets louder as the night goes on with the DJ checking in to the booth at 7pm, so consider stopping by for mid-week partying as well.

Quick China: The only answer to all your Asian cravings on Atiye Sokak. This laid-back restaurant’s menu combines the best of Asian cuisine, offering a mix of Chinese, Thai, and Japanese food. Unlike the name suggests, this is not a fast food joint. Whether your favorite dish is Peking Duck, Teriyaki Chicken, Pad Thai, or California Roll, keep in mind: the more, the merrier. Go with a group so you can sample a couple of different dishes from their extensive menu. For drinks, sake it is!

Casita: If you have a sudden craving for mantı, Casita is the place to go. Although on the heavier side of things, their çökertme and feraye are addictive, and are the ideal post-party foods.

The House Cafe: The birthplace of the restaurant chain, this branch on Atiye Sokak has become a classic. Ideal for ladies-who-lunch as well as business lunches. For something fresh, order their lemonade with mint.

Maybe Salomanje: After revamping its concept and décor, the restaurant, previously known as Salomanje, came back as Maybe Salomanje. Celebrity spotting possible during Sunday brunches. A must-go for after-work drinks.

Kav Butik: No longer just a liquor store (and a very comprehensive one indeed), Kav is now functioning as a wine bar. Food is provided by the nearby Zanzibar.

Elio’s menu focuses on Mediterranean fare, with a strong Italian influence. Menu highlights include artichoke salad, Robespierre pizza, linguine con le vongole, risotto with porcini mushrooms and truffle oil, and ossobuco. At lunchtime, a more casual, bistro-style menu is also available. Meanwhile, the Sedef Adası branch features the same delicious cuisine, but in a romantic setting overlooking the cool waters of the Marmara

Classic as well as post-modern, gastro-sensational but still for the masses. That is what chef and owner Murat Bozok brought together in SALT’s Bistro.

Following his success at Mimolett, a fine-dining restaurant that serves Mediterranean and French cuisine, Bozok opened Bistro in the very-artsy, very-intellectual SALT a few months ago. But you don’t have to appreciate animated discussions or even art to enjoy the food at Bistro. You only need to be able to appreciate the art of food.

We were awestruck by Bistro when we went there for lunch last Friday: the restaurant, which was quite calm with only a few tables occupied, had a modern-loft feeling. The tall windows coupled with the high-ceilings make this relatively small space look and feel much more spacious than it actually is.

We were in for a quick and light lunch, and the inventive menu made it a bit difficult to pick just one dish. So we decided to share a starter, an appetizer, and a main. As we were waiting for our starter to arrive, we nibbled on the scrumptious homemade breads. I loved the one with cinnamon and walnuts, while my lunch companion couldn’t get enough of the ones with dried tomatoes.

Soon enough, the Cacık Soslu Falafel (Falafel with “Yogurt” Sauce) arrived. Although I was anticipating something more similar to the ball-shaped, crunchy, fried Israeli falafel, what we had was a much more elegant version of this street food. Rather than ball-shaped, the falafel came in patties and had a puree-like filling, and looked like a perfect hors d’oeuvre with a Turkish twist. Instead of hummus, the falafel dish was served with a thin yogurt and cucumber sauce and a tomato sauce that’s reminiscent of the sauces on mantı and kebab dishes. Although deep fried, the falafel tasted so light that we had to double-check with the waiter whether it was in fact deep fried.

The Narlı Buğday Salatası (Wheat Salad with Pomegranate) was a winner right from the start with its extravagant presentation. But it was the popcorn that made it for me. Seriously, what a fantastic addition to a salad! We couldn’t help but admire the creativity of chef Murat Bozok as this light salad spoke to each part of our taste buds: it first tasted slightly sweet, then a subtle lemony tanginess rushed in, and the crunch of the popcorn brought it all to a glorious finale.

Following the salad, which was no doubt the highlight of the meal, we had Şarap Soslu Karamelize Tavuk (Caramelized Chicken with Wine Sauce) as our main. The vegetables that came with the chicken were too salty, and the chicken was only slightly overcooked.

Although we made do with three dishes, there is a lot more on Bozok’s menu that is waiting to be savored. On my next visit to Bistro, I plan on trying a regional take on a classic Italian dish, the İzmir Tulum Peynirli Lazanya (Lasagne with “İzmir Tulum” cheese). Whether you’re at SALT to see their latest exhibition or just strolling around Beyoğlu, stop by Bistro for high-quality food that is still affordable.

On board with the nutrition-obsessed citizens of the world, we went to the only address that would no doubt deliver. At Zencefil, it’s not about boiled broccoli or the leafy salad, it’s about bringing together the freshest, seasonal, naturally-grown, locally-produced ingredients—always the best of the best—and creating sensational dishes. Pretty sure there is a serious cult following of the lorlu patlıcan (eggplant with goat’s cheese). But we’ll get to that in a second.

First thing you need to know about Zencefil is that it’s not just a restaurant serving tasty and healthy food but a system of consciousness. What began with five tables and a menu consisting of soups, salads, and breads is now a legend of vegetarian restaurants in Istanbul. Owner Ferda, who is also the brain behind most of the dishes, didn’t embark on this vegetarian journey to keep up with the latest trends; she wanted to create a place that would bring together the sincerity of your grandmother’s cooking and the ideals held up by today’s environmentally, politically, and health conscious individuals.

Serious vegetarians can rest assured that no meat products go in the dishes. For example, the stock for the pasta dishes is made by boiling leftover vegetable peels. Except for the two chicken dishes and one fish dish, everything on the menu is strictly vegetarian. A few vegan options, such as the salads and beans, are also available.

Designed like an oasis, Zencefil’s forget-all-your-worries garden covered with ivy leaves creates a truly relaxing atmosphere and takes you away from the chaos of Istanbul. The interior décor is on a similar vein; the glasshouse-effect in the main dining area coupled with the brick walls makes for an enticing and relaxing atmosphere.

As a serious meat fan, I did have some reservations before going to Zencefil, but now I may in fact be converted to a vegivore. When you go to Zencefil, you too will embark on a love affair with vegetables.

During our deliciously long lunch, we had an impromptu tasting menu that began with the very tasty and invigorating homemade lemonade and ginger ale. Unlike the sugar-bomb lemonades you find at most places, the lemonade was made the old-fashioned way with real lemons and tasted, refreshingly so, not too sweet or too sour. The ginger ale, on the other hand, tasted good without an overpowering ginger flavor. So even if you shy away from ginger, we suggest you give this ginger ale a try.

Next we had a cold summer soup called ayran aşı. Hailing from the eastern city of Van, this regional dish is ideal for those who love corn, chickpea, and yogurt topped up with mint and beetroot sorbet. Ayran aşı was followed by an army of starters that were all, to be frank, very good. Although beans are a typical home cooked meal that we’ve grown up with, the Zencefil version of beans were unique and tasted especially good thanks to the addition of tarragon. The yaz türlüsü (mixed vegetable dish) was just like a Turkish grandmother would make—and that’s probably the highest compliment you can give to a typical home cooked dish. The lentil patties, samphire, the zucchini were all the best of their kind.

The highlight of the meal, which was in serious competition with the green lasagna, was lorlu patlıcan (eggplant with goat’s cheese). The tart-shaped lorlu patlıcan has its roots at a spa of the early 90s. A food aficionado passed on the recipe to the then-partner of the restaurant, which was molded and perfected by the Zencefil crew. Even after almost two decades on the menu, it’s still a crowd-pleaser and is unlikely to go out of fashion.

The green lasagna has a similarly intriguing backstory. A love-struck African man was in search of his wife who kind of ran away with a spiritual cult. He had to spend some time in Istanbul, and, long story short, his path crossed with that of Zencefil’s owner Ferda. With a Buddha-like patience and determination, this love-struck man dedicated himself to creating the best vegetable lasagna, tirelessly adding one layer after the other, day after day.Although his versionis no longer on the menu, we can now savor thegreen lasagna (otherwise referred to as the ultimate vegetarian dish) created by Hande, a very talentedZencefil team member Hande. Crusted with corn bread, it’s made with seasonal vegetables, ranging from broccoli and peas to spinach and mushroom, as well as uncured goat’s cheese and spices. Minus the béchamel sauce plus the squash-carrot sauce, this lasagna beats any original.

For dessert, we had sage-and-gum and mocha-with-coffee-bits ice-cream. Both were top-notch. The sage-and-gum ice-cream is likely to be a pleasant surprise for those who are not a big fan of sage or gum. Whether you’re counting your calorie intake or not, the fruit sorbets are very refreshing and flavorful options. They are not your typical sorbets though—the melon has a bit of ginger, the watermelon and strawberry have a bit of black pepper, and the cup comes topped with orange rind. Both of these desserts are served with ginger cookies and candied ginger. Be warned as the candied ginger rank high on the spicy matrix.

If you’re ready to fall head over heels in love with vegetables, we suggest you head to Zencefil.

Like its Beyoğlu counterpart, 360 East benefits from a truly spectacular panoramic view of the city, stretching from the Princes Islands on the Marmara Sea to the Bosphorus Strait. Designed by architect Ufuk Alparslan, 360 East is a modern and stylish club and restaurant where you can enjoy Turkish cuisine with an international twist or a poolside cocktail—yes, there’s a pool, and it’s not just for show!

Although 360 East carries almost the same concept as 360 Istanbul in Beyoğlu, there are some minimal changes to the menu, such as the Iceberg cocktail (made with Malibu, Batida Coco, Blue Curacao, and coconut milk) and Cranberry Royal (made with champagne, cranberry juice, and cranberry bits). Their new fruity additions sound fresh and tasty, but their classic signature cocktail called 360 is particularly good. As you sip this citrusy cocktail, you can truly taste the strawberry, cinnamon, and shavings of lemon and orange. We suggest you sample all, and maybe the Cucumber Margarita, too, if you don’t mind mixing it up.

With concerts and DJs lined up throughout the summer, 360 East is sure to quickly become one of the trendiest nightlife spots on the Asian side. Their first live performance is due to take place on July 15 with Natalie Peris, one of the most successful electronic vocalists of Croatia. After embarking on a musical journey as a lead singer in various jazz bands, Peris switched to electronic music, releasing songs like “Dance With You,” “Disco Belle,” and “Not Enough.”

Whether you live on the Asian Side or the European Side, we suggest you check out 360 East and see Istanbul from a completely different angle!

Peris will be at 360 East on July 15-16 and July 22-23. For a sneak peek, click here.

The coastal neighborhoods on the European Side of Istanbul offer many restaurants and cafes for breakfast and brunch, from gourmet venues to the high-scale hotel brunches, from the casual to the quick and cheap. Here is a shortlist of the best casual Sunday brunch spots along the Bosphorus.

Bebek is inarguably one of the best neighborhoods to stroll through on a weekend, especially when the weather is good. Within this upscale neighborhood there is a gem of a place called Bebek Kahve. A classic among Istanbulites, Bebek Kahve is a humble cafe that greets you with wooden tables and chairs, like the coffee houses of yore, local dogs ambling past the front door, and a generally laid-back feel, in stark contrast to the swish, LA style of most of Bebek’s restaurants and cafes. It has its own little space next to the mosque by the waterfront, and is a wonderfully tucked away place for a leisurely brunch. Alongside the usual trappings of a Turkish feast of olives, cheese, and tea, there are nice additions, like the fresh simit, toasted and sprinkled with red chili flakes, to have with your cheese and olives, or the kaymak (clotted cream) and honey. There is also a choice of eggs—omelet, menemen (Turkish scrambled eggs with tomato and peppers), or eggs cooked with pieces of sucuk (beef sausage), brought sizzling to your table. Be prepared for possible celeb-sightings and hung-over glitterati trying to sober up with a cup of tea or coffee before continuing their party across the street at Lucca.

A 20-minute walk away from Bebek, you'll reach Rumelihisarı. Unlike its posh counterpart, Rumelihisarı is filled with low-key restaurants and cafes. Sade Kahve and Kale Cafe are our top picks from that area. Both cafes have fantastic views of the Bosphorus and feature a similar menu. We recommend that you go in a group so that you can sample a variety of their delicacies.

Sade Kahve only has outdoor seating and, surprisingly, it’s even filled during cold winter days—possibly a testament to its inimitably relaxing atmosphere and good food. While it gets too crowded during spring and summer and you'll probably need to wait in line before you can get a table, the food and the atmosphere are certainly worth the wait. The menu is filled with classic Turkish breakfast fare, including cheese, olives, tomatoes, cucumbers, and honey. Their sahanda yumurta (fried eggs) are fantastic. If you’re not counting calories, go for sahanda sucuk (fried beef sausage) or sahanda sucuklu yumurta (fried eggs with beef sausage). Their gözleme and simit with cheese are must-tries. Nothing beats their coffee, made with traditional equipment, which makes for a bitter-sweet ending to your brunch.

A classic of Istanbul Sundays since 1983, Kale is still the king of hearts. The cafe is very humble and doesn’t feature a particularly inviting atmosphere but it arguably has the best breakfast in the neighborhood. The ultimate destination if you're after a casual Sunday brunch with classic breakfast fare.

Yeniköy Kahvesi, located a ten-minute ride from Rumelihisarı, feels like an oasis in the middle of the city, offering a casual and relaxing spot under the trees. You can either take a cab there (if you can bare the traffic) or jog from Bebek. You won’t have a problem finding this spot—a big yellow sign will lead you up the stairs through leafy trees. You’ll come across an unexpected view of the Bosphorus—this place definitely has the awe factor! For brunch, you’ll find the classic Turkish breakfast fare. They also carry organic breakfast dishes, including cheese, eggs, honey, marmalade, olives, butter, tomatoes, and cucumbers. Make sure to try their homemade lemonade. Surprisingly so, they play classical music in the mornings! We don’t know why but it surely adds to the relaxing feel of the venue, making it an ideal place to read a book or a newspaper. And you don’t need to bring your own—you can grab a book from their collection.

The furthest stop on our brunch hunt on the coastal neighborhoods of the European side is Meşhur Sarıyer Börekçisi, offering a less healthy but sweeter option. Their şekerli börek (pastry sprinkled with powdered sugar) is the tastiest—keep in mind that the portions are quite large so you might want to share. If you’re not big on sweets, try their börek with potatoes or meat. They also offer a range of Turkish pastry products and their poğaça is the softest and crumbliest. Skip your morning coffee intake and go for tea, which is a much better accompaniment to these pastry products.

You might be in hot pursuit of achieving a bikini-body in time for your next beach holiday, but you can’t refuse these oh-so-worth-it brunches. If you want to go to bed with a clear conscious, walk or jog on your way to your chosen brunch spot.

Following their success with Changa, Tarık Beyazıt and Savaş Ertunç got together with the Kiwi chef Peter Gordon for another inventive culinary experience. Located within the Sakıp Sabancı Museum complex, overlooking the waters of the Bosphorus, müzedechanga is a contemporary Turkish – Mediterranean restaurant offering a range of creative dishes.

Seated on the terrace, we enjoyed the chirping birds and the old and grand trees, as we marveled at the stunning view of the Bosphorus. When the waiter brought over the array of mezes, I reeled to and fro, not knowing which one to begin with. Unlike me, my lunch companion leapt right in. Almost like a lioness in attack, I grabbed my fork and quickly followed suit, aiming for the closest dish. The lucky winner: balkabaklı muhammara (the spicy walnut spread with pumpkin).

This was a refreshingly modern take on a classic dish. The sweetness of the pumpkin, dancing slowly with the crunchy walnuts turned out to be an original, addictively smooth paste. Try dipping the fresh and crunchy bread in the paste…definite drool factor!

To balance out the sweet aftertaste of the muhammara, I swiftly moved on the maşpiyazı ve ev yapımı isli somon (in-house smoked salmon chunks with mung bean salad). The salmon, which felt especially reviving with the moist mung bean salad, had the texture of grilled salmon but the taste of smoked salmon—certainly a unique combination.

Now it was time to try the mantarlı hınkal (Gürcü mantısı), Antakya tuzlu yoğurt sos ve nane salsa (mushroom stuffed dumplings with goat’s milk yogurt sauce and fresh mint salad). I now fondly recall this dish as the soft mushroom bomb with a gooey center. The sly parmesan was masked by the fresh basil leaves and only became obvious as the dumpling crumbled away in my mouth. Although quite similar to Turkish mantı in terms of texture, this Georgian-style mantı has a different folding style and presentation, and is filled with mushrooms instead of meat. This is a great choice for vegetarians—although you should steer clear of this dish if you’re watching your carb intake, because the creamy sauce begs to be sopped up with bread.

After the mantı, it was time to try the glorious sucuk—another creative take on a traditional Turkish specialty! Although the king of all Sunday breakfasts, it’s usually too greasy for my liking, and leaves you feeling like you’ve just eaten Big Mac for breakfast. But this sucuk has a completely different story. Fıstıklı Changa sucuk ve humus (Changa sucuk – spicy sausage with pistachios – and hummus) is much more than a modern take on a traditional dish. It’s a revolution in and of itself!

First, I had a spoonful of hummus; as it melted away in my mouth, a subtle sucuk taste creeped in. This was a seriously pleasant surprise. The sucuk itself was perfection: cooked just the right amount, juicy inside and crispy on the outside. The pickles on the side were the ideal companions, light and refreshing after the spicy, flavorful sucuk.

Next in line was the Katmer, Keçi Peyniri Kreması ve Antakya Kırık Zeytini (Flaky Pastry, Creamy Goat’s Cheese and Marinated Green Olives). Similar to gözleme in texture, the katmer had a simple yet gratifying flavor like a plain pancake that you don’t mind gulping down without maple syrup. The strongly flavored olives and the cheese made the ideal combination to the pastry.

The couscous that came with the succulent Izgara Tavuk ve Badem, Turşulanmış Limon, Kuru Sultani Üzümlü Kuskus ve Tabbouleh (Grilled Chicken on Couscous with Almonds, Raisins, Preserved Lemon, and Tabbouleh) was one of the best that I’ve ever had. The couscous was moist; the sweetness of the raisins and the tanginess of the lemon made a dazzling team.

To end this delectable lunch, we had Turkish coffee, which came with freshly made Turkish delights. For dessert, we had ordered Wafer Halva and Rose Parfait Sandwich with Strawberry & Raspberry Sauce. The crunchiness of the halva, the cool sweetness of the parfait, and the delicate combination of the strawberry and raspberry sauce turned out to be a grand finale.

Check out the atmosphere:

Located in the Edirnekapı district in the heart of the old city, Asitane is a unique restaurant within the Istanbul culinary scene, specializing in “Ottoman Court” cuisine. Although Asitane has been around for close to 20 years, at the moment, the restaurant happens to have its finger on the pulse of one of the latest trends to hit the culinary world – food archeology, the practice of rediscovering historical recipes that have fallen out of use over the years.

After meticulous study and much trial and error, the chefs at Asitane have resurrected long-forgotten recipes from the kitchens of the Sultan’s palaces to create delicious and unusual dishes. The recipes for these royal dishes were closely guarded secrets, known only to members of the palace cooking guilds and passed on not through books but by word of mouth. Consequently, this knowledge was eventually lost. After studying records of meals and celebrations held at Topkapı and Dolmabahçe Palaces, the chefs at Asitane have succeeded in recreating severalhundred dishes.

The menu is ever-changing, and is prepared using a range of seasonal ingredients. You will immediately notice that the flavors on offer are much more diverse than what is available in contemporary Turkish restaurants, with a combination of sweet and savory that is not typically found in modern Turkish cuisine. Indeed, the recipes incorporate flavors from the Middle East, Balkans, Central Asia, and Anatolia – all territories that were once ruled over by the Ottomans. Another one of Asitane’s unusual characteristics is its location in Edirnekapı, which is off the beaten path and far from the central Beyoğlu district or the waters of the Bosphorus, where you can find most of the city’s upscale restaurants. Nevertheless, this part of town still manages to draw a significant number of tourists with its wealth of historical buildings. Asitane is located next to one of the most noteworthy of these buildings from the Byzantine era, the St. Savior in Chora Church, which is famed for its incredible mosaics and frescos. Additionally, in the rear, Asitane’s large garden is open during the summer months and has a lovely view of the neighboring church.

Inside, the décor is tasteful and subtle, if not a bit unremarkable, with starched white table cloths and Ottoman calligraphy adorning the walls. The real “wow factor” lies with the food. Each dish on the menu has a listing of the date of origin, and all of the recipes are prepared using the cooking methods of that period. Many of the dishes on the menu originate from the special feast of 1539, celebrating the circumcision of Suleiman the Magnificent’s son, including the famous almond soup that was served at this celebration. The waiters at Asitane are all very knowledgeable and ready to make suggestions and guide you towards the dishes you may enjoy the most.

On my visit, our meal started off with a selection of cold appetizers called Asitane Treats, which included the “Lor” Cheese Blend (1898), a Turkish cheese similar to ricotta that was mixed with green peppers, tomatoes, and fresh herbs and seasoned with rosemary and paprika, the Pounded Cucumber Salad (1844) that had the interesting addition of pistachios, as well as the more classic Fava, a well-known dish of creamed broad beans with dill and olive oil, served on a piece of crisp bread. The highlight was certainly the Ottoman Hums (1469, 1471), which is Asitane’s version of hummus, delicately flavored with currants, pine nuts, and cinnamon, and topped with a crispy piece of pastırma.

For my main, I had the “Mahmudiyye” with Dane-i Sarı (1539), a dish of stewed chicken in a creamy sauce that included apricots, almonds, and Razaki raisins. This dish was flavored with cinnamon and cloves, and served with a side of saffron pilaf rice. While this may sound like it could be overwhelmingly sweet, but the flavors were well-balanced by the saffron rice while the chicken was very tender andtasty.

Meanwhile, my companion had the Stuffed Quince (1539), which is one of Asitane’s signature dishes, where quince is baked after it has been stuffed with a blend of lamb, beef, rice, pine nuts, and currants, topped with grape molasses. Served with melon in the summer, this is a play on a traditional dolma dish, with the quince so perfectly cooked that each bite melts in your mouth, the meat counterbalancingthe sweetness of the quince.

With our meals, the waiters brought us complimentary glasses of sherbet, the sweet and syrupy drink that is the main ingredient in sorbets. The house specialties are pomegranate blossom and cinnamon, which has a nice subtle bite due to the cloves and chili that are used. Although these are delicious, it should be noted that these can become a bit overwhelmingly sweet when accompanying a meal.

To finish off, we had the obligatory cup of Turkish coffee and Levzine (1539). Although this is described as an Almond Halva, I would say that the texture and flavor was much closer to a sugary marzipan, which made for the perfect ending to a delicious and unusual meal. With its focus on the Ottoman past, Asitane provides a very different and very welcome take on Turkey’s culinary history. An experience not to be missed.

Meyhanes are split into two camps: some focus on the "merry" in the "eat, drink and be merry" equation with live fasıl (traditional) Turkish music, raucous sing-a-longs, and belly dancing on tables. Others focus on the eating and drinking, attracting customers who prefer good food and good conversation; these "hardcore" meyhanes are largely centered in Beyoğlu, the nucleus of Istanbul’s social and intellectual life.

If you too wish to experience the uniquely Turkish meyhane happenings, the following meyhanes in Beyoğlu and Kuruçeşme will more than satisfy your expectations. Although they all provide a similar service, each has a distinct variation of the meyhane theme.

Refik

Established in 1954, Refik is the quintessential intellectual’s meyhane. Long before Istanbul’s pseudo-intellectuals made Asmalımescit their haunt, left-wing writers and artists were thronging Refik. It is owned and operated by Refik Arslan, a larger-than-life character with a bulbous red nose who still meets patrons at the door. Refik is a drinker’s meyhane—the food is almost incidental to the rakı and conversation. Still, the food is very good. There is no set menu—just pick and choose what you would like. Make sure to try the Arnavut ciğeri (Albanian-style liver), kuzu sarma (stuffed lamb), kağıtta pastırma (dried beef en papillote), and patlıcan salatası (eggplant salad). There’s no music, as it would interfere with the intense conversations.

Yakup 2

Opened in 1982 and operated by Yakup Arslan, the brother of Refik Arslan (owner of Refik). It too is located in Asmalımescit, a mecca for meyhane goers. Yakup 2 is a large, humbly decorated venue that affords plenty of opportunity for people-watching. The walls are covered in aging theatre posters. This used to be a very popular venue with the intelligentsia and artistic crowd. Like Refik, Yakup 2 attracts people who take their drinking very seriously. There is no set menu here. There are over 30mezes; specialties include kıymalı muska böreği (pastry stuffed with minced meat), octopus salad, fried calamari, shrimp casserole, and Arnavut ciğeri (Albanian-style liver). If you have space for a main course, choose from the catch of the day, meat, or chicken. Note that there is no live music.

Ya & Re

The Arslan family’s third generation opened Ya & Re, bringing the forces of Yakup and Refik together in one venue.Ya&Re is situated in Asmalımescit near Babylon among all the other buzzing meyhanes, bars, and clubs so there is a great atmosphere in the area with much nightly revelry. You’ll find delicious cold and hot meze dishes, such as pilaki and eggplant salad. Main courses feature meat and fish dishes, char-grilled and in some cases fried. Pricing is fairly reasonable, with appetizers starting at 10 TL and main dishes ranging between 15 and 30 TL. A range of set menus are also on offer for around 70 TL. Keep in mind that the venue gets quiet packed, especially on weekends.

Cumhuriyet

History buffs and traditionalists should head to Cumhuriyet, as it was the founder of the Turkish Republic Atatürk’s favorite meyhane. Cumhuriyet (which suitably means republic) is one of the oldest and most famous of Beyoğlu’s meyhanes. At over 100 years old, Cumhuriyet is more than a meyhane, it is an Istanbul landmark. On every 10^th of November, the anniversary of Atatürk’s death, a glass of Kulüp Rakı (his preferred brand of rakı) and a bowl of his favorite white leblebi (roasted chick peas) are placed on his table at 9:05 am, the hour of his death. Cumhuriyet serves a set menu of cold and hot mezes and a main course. You can ostensibly have wine with your meal, but rakı is advised, if only out of respect for Atatürk. Cumhuriyet is located on three floors seating a total of 650 people. There is live fasıl (traditional Turkish) music on the third floor every night.

The following article was prepared by Mr. Kıraç for The Guide Istanbul and published in the November/ December 1994 issue.

Known for their quality, beautiful packaging, and attention to detail, Café di Dolce gained a loyal clientele and eventually opened a second branch in the resort town of Bodrum. Now with the new Kandilli branch, residents of the city’s Asian side will no longer have to visit the European side to indulge in luxury sweets. Apart from home deliveries, a boat shuttle service between Kuruçeşme and Kandilli is also available.

The recent addition of wine bars in Istanbul put a new spin on wine tasting. These wine bars look for ways to remove the association of wine with upscale clientele and overwhelming wine lists by offering a more casual and relaxing atmosphere for clients looking to experiment with wines. Having embraced the intellectual stimulation linked to wine, wine bars offer an alternative to the bar scene. The laid-back environment lends itself to a good socializing setting with a less crowded feel and more intimate appeal.

CORVUS WINE & BITE

Concept and Philosophy: Corvus Wine & Bite's primary purpose is to promote and introduce Corvus wines and different foods from Bozcaada to a wider audience.

The Wine: All come from Corvus Vineyards. Over 25 choices are on offer, most are red, but white, rose, and sweet options are available as well.

Owner: Reşit Soley purchased 200,000 square meters of land in Bozcaada (a small island in the Aegean Sea) and worked with companies in France, Italy, and Israel to establish Corvus Vineyards. In April 2003, the plants produced their first leaves and began bearing fruit by August. Then, in February 2004, he purchased an old Cognac Factory on the island; in a short period of time (nearly 4 months), he transformed it into a contemporary winery equipped with the latest technology.

Décor & Ambiance: Corvus does not resemble a typical wine bar: the décor is modern and elegant, and top-notch china and flatware are used. The interior walls are decorated with artwork of Yılmaz Aysan, an Istanbul-based artist, designer, and teacher.

Menu: The menu includes a long list of tapas dishes, from specialty cheeses from Bozcaada, Kars, Konya, and Niğde to gourmet-style small bites, and a few dishes prepared by chefs from select restaurants in Istanbul.

Recommended Dishes: Ezine Cheese (one-year aged white cheese from Bozcaada) with dried fig puree; Roasted eggplant, walnuts, and mulberry molasses; Şans Restaurant’s slow cooked beef ribs, buttered wheat, and grape molasses; Shrimp, spinach, and bell pepper sauté

Service: The wait staff is efficient, friendly, and knowledgeable, and speaks English, French, and German.

Pluses: The menu is very eclectic and most dishes are prepared with regional products from Bozcaada. The outdoor seating area is on a wide and quiet street.

Minuses: Only one brand of wine is served. The lighting in the interior is a little too harsh.

General information: Wine, cheese, bread, marmalades, olive oil, tea, and herbs can be purchased to take home.

ROUGE

Concept & Philosophy: A wine bar, restaurant, and wine shop all in one. Rouge aims to promote good food, good wine, and good conversations.

The Wine: Over 260 varieties of the best Turkish and international wines and champagnes are available. Turkish brands include Kavaklıdere, Doluca, Turasan, Pamukkale, and Likya. Among the foreign wines and champagnes, Pascal Jolivet, Hill & Dale, Hugel Reisling, Domaine Larouche, Torres, Cune Rioja, Sacha Lichine, Frescobaldi, Moët & Chandon, Veuve Clicquot, and Dom Pérignon are available. Over 60 varieties are available by the glass.

Owner: Mehmet Yalçın is a journalist, writer, and owner of Gusto Magazine (established in 2001 and Turkey’s first magazine dedicated to the culture of drinking). He is a self-taught authority on wine and spirits; he honed his knowledge by devouring publications on local and foreign spirits. In 1989, he started writing a column about wine for Erkekçe, a men’s magazine; he formed an association with the now-deceased Turkish gourmet Tuğrul Şavkay to bring together wine lovers; between 1997-2001, he was the editor of lifestyle magazineGurme; he has written two books Whisky from A-Z with Teoman Hünal and Wine from A-Z; he continues to write a column about wine and spirits in the Sunday supplement of Milliyet newspaper.

Décor & Ambiance: The eclectically-decorated Rouge is reminiscent of a typical wine bar, but with a twist. The walls are decorated with art work of the owner’s artist wife Hülya Botasun, and the interior is further decorated with mahogany, brick walls, and shimmering lighting. This homey and casual wine bar features a casually-decorated terrace off the main floor, and outdoor seating is available in the front of the venue on Lamartin Street.

Menu: The menu includes local and international cheeses, deli meat platters, a good assortment of appetizers, and main courses on the a la carte menu.

Recommended Dishes: Normandy Style Mussels in Curry Sauce; Grilled Pork Sausage;Grilled Salmon Steak

Service: The wait staff is very efficient and knowledgeable and speaks English.

Pluses: The quality and ingredients of the food are very good. Most importantly, almost all of the dishes on the a la carte menu are available in half portions. Rouge has a separate wine shop where over 400 varieties of wine and champagne are available and categorized (such as best sellers and award winning wines). Also, quality liqueurs (such as Chambord and Amaretto di Saronna), whisky, and vodka are sold.

Minuses: Lamartin Street is a bustling pedestrian-only street and can be very crowded; so it does tend to be noisy when sitting outdoors.

General Information: There is live Latin-Jazz music on Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday evenings. DJ music on all other nights. A set lunch menu is available daily.

SENSUS WINE & CHEESE BOUTIQUE

Concept & Philosophy: Sensus Wine & Cheese Boutique is a typical wine bar offering only wine and cheese.

The Wine: Over 380 wines from 27 Turkish distributors are available: over 6 are available by the glass and the choices vary periodically.

Owner: Sensus is owned and managed by the Anemon Hotels Group. The brainchild behind the wine & cheese boutique is Oğuz Akçura, Chairman of the Executive Board of Directors and an avid wine enthusiast. Because of his passion for wine, which he developed while abroad, they also have Wine Vineyards in Kula-Manisa, which gave its first harvest in 2008. Their own brand Ventus is a blend of cabernet sauvignon, syrah, and merlot.

Décor & Ambiance: The elegantly-decorated venue does not resemble a typical wine bar. There is a long bar, with seating for 6-7 people on one side and a separate seating area in the rear with a capacity for about 20 people.

Menu: Only a variety of seasonal Turkish cheeses are served.

Service: The staff is very friendly, knowledgeable, and speaks English. There is an in-house sommelier, Izmir born Ilhan Olam, with 7 years experience.

Pluses: Wine tasting menus are available. Bulk purchases of wine can be delivered to any location in Turkey. Wine tasting seminars can be organized for groups. Some wine paraphernalia, such as corkscrew, boxes, wine bottle stoppers, are sold.

Minuses: Food is not served and no outdoor seating area is available— there are standing platforms on the street as the street is narrow and on a slant.

General information: Branches of Sensus are now open at the Anemon Hotels in Eskişehir and Antakya.

The team behind the Otto restaurants has launched a new venue called Bloom. Located between the Ulus and Ortaköy neighborhoods, Bloom is a funky new restaurant/bar housed in the Lotus development. The menu features Italian, Mediterranean, and Turkish cuisines, with a wood-burning oven that allows Bloom to turn out tasty, thin-crust pizzas.

The menu also features pastas, burgers, salads, and light options, as well as a range of classic and exotic cocktails, while a special brunch menu is available on Sundays. Smokers will be happy to note that there is also a large terrace, with plenty of outdoor seating available. Bloom has the same cool vibe and colorful décor at its sister establishments, which makes it a great option for those who don’t want to travel to Beyoğlu, making this a very welcome addition to the area’s dining and nightlife scene.

To finish off your meal, you can enjoy one of Divan’s classic ice cream Sundays or you can opt for a more exotic dessert, such as the Cinnamon and Sugar Coated Tortilla or the Crispy Cinnamon Bunuelos (a Mexican-style fritter).

Bebek’s ultimate brunch spot. Amazing Bosphorus views. Casual, comfortable, relaxing atmosphere. This is Mangerie. Now with an expanded menu.

Seafood aficionados will be happy to hear that one addition is the moules marinière with basil, celery, and parsley. If not a mussel person, try the bruschetta with king crab salad or the fried baby calamari (sautéed in white wine).

For those shying away from seafood, an organic oven-baked chicken stuffed with firik pilavı (wheat rice) is on offer. A new vegetarian dish is also available for those looking for a lighter option: stuffed squash blossoms with goat cheese and pine nuts.

During summer, Mangerie becomes a preferred spot for those looking to have a drink after work to wind down. In addition to Mangerie’s classics, such as mojito, bloody mary, and lime margarita, now you can choose from apple mojito, strawberry vodka, and lemonade vodka.

Grab your friends, head to Mangerie, pick a spot at the terrace, and enjoy your meal & drinks.

Passionate about cooking, Murat Bozok dumped his initial education in Business Administration for a tasty and soulful journey around the world, getting a formal education in cooking in the States and working with the likes of Gordon Ramsey in Europe. After returning to his motherland, Bozok opened Mimolett in 2009, adding some spice to the gastronomical mix of Istanbul’s restaurant scene.

Cuisine: Mediterranean and French

Concept: Fine-dining

What to Wear: Dressed-up or casual chic

Executive Chef & Owner

Mimolett’s Executive Chef and owner Murat Bozok has worked at eateries owned by world-class chefs Gordon Ramsay (Petrus) in London and Joel Robuchon (L’Atelier de Robuchon) in Paris. He moved back to Istanbul to open his own restaurant.

Décor & Ambiance

Located in a 100 year-old historical building, Mimolett is elegantly decorated with soft lighting, crystal chandeliers, crisp linen tablecloths, velvet curtains, and decorative mirrors befitting a fine-dining establishment. An outdoor terrace and a marble bar are located on the first floor. The lower two levels have been allocated for dining, with a seating capacity of 70 people, along with two private rooms (usually reserved for business meetings), and a terrace.

Menu

An A La Carte menu and a tasting menu are available. Fresh and seasonal ingredients are used and, as such, the menus are updated every 6 weeks.

Recommended Dishes

Appetizers

Foie Gras Sauté, Quince Jam and Brioche

Asparagus Salad, Pomegranate Molasses and Parmesan

Main Courses

Duck Confite, Foie Gras Croissant and White Bean Puréewith Truffle

Dessert

Chocolate Souffle, Créme Anglaise Sauce

Wine List

There are 350 varieties of local and international wines available in carafes at all price levels. A good selection of wines by the glass is also offered. Don’t feel overwhelmed by the options; the restaurant’s sommelier is there to help you out in your selection.

Service

The wait staff is very efficient and knowledgeable.

Pluses

The high ceiling in the main dining area adds an extra touch to the atmosphere and the lighting is very good. China and silverware are top-quality (Villeroy & Boch china and Christofle flatware). Molton Brown products are available in bathrooms. Music is unobtrusive. Homemade breads are excellent.

Minuses

Portions are small—and for some this can be a minus, although the purpose is to taste different flavors.

Miscellaneous Info

Mimolett has been named after the French cheese mimolette, a round and orange-colored cheese produced for the first time in the 17^th century at the request of Louis XIV.

So not swappable for anything.

Except for utterly delicious Italian food.

Especially if you only need to drive down to Arnavutköy to get it.

Antica Locanda is an undeniably sophisticated Italian restaurant that offers rustic Italian cuisine that will unquestionably gratify you.

It comes as no surprise that it is the Italian chef Gian Carlo Talerico who delivers the divine food at Antica Locanda. Having grown up in a crowded Italian family, Gian Carlo began learning the art of cooking from his mother and his grandmother when he was a little boy.

Upon receiving his formal culinary education in Milan, Gian Carlo took off to experience the rest of the world and worked at prestigious restaurants. After returning to his motherland, he opened a culinary school in Tuscany where worked as the executive chef and manager for several years.

Along the way, he met Beldan Erkkul—a Turkish lady who is now his wife and co-owner of Antica Locanda—and ended up opening his own Italian restaurant in a recently-renovated building that was part of the Greek Orthodox Church in Arnavutköy.

Beautifully renovated by architect Turhan Kaşo, this historical building still carries a divine feeling, especially in its little terrace that’s separated from the church by a large, verdant garden that makes for a fantastic view. Inside, the modern décor blends flawlessly with traditional details, such as the black and white chequered floors and white tablecloths. Perfect harmony, like all the dishes Gian Carlo prepares.

In fact, perfection and harmony are enough to define our lunch at Antica Locanda—an unfair competition for the rest of the Italian eateries in Istanbul.

The cheese and fruit plate marked the beginning of our delicious lunch. For me, the parmesan was the pièce de résistance. I’m still daydreaming about it, I’ll tell you that much.

Before moving on to our individual dishes, we shared crunchy salmon croquettes, which paired perfectly with the accompanying sweet sauce. The saltimbocca (a mini-pizza with mozzarella, goat cheese, and caramelized onions) took center stage for most of us. Some were raving about the crust and the flavor even days after.

For mains, I ordered the Petto di pollo caramellizzato al forno con scalogno dorato e salsa di albicocche, or easily referred to as the voluptuously tender, sweet, succulent chicken dish. Paired with a bottle of mellow red wine. Yum.

To end this sublime lunch, we ordered coffee with dessert. I would strongly argue that what we had should have a category of its own in the universe of chocolate.

A huge piece of rich, dark chocolate, served with meringues and almond-flavored biscuits, presented on a cutting board along with a knife to cut the chocolate in chunks. No wonder coffee was drunk in silence.

Service, presentation, setting , food. All in harmony, all top-notch, all exceeding our expectations.

Antica Locanda, Satış Meydanı No. 12, Arnavutköy; P: (0212) 287 97 45

The fish here is exceptionally fresh, and the menu features seasonal whole fish that is either grilled over charcoal or lightly fried. Apart from the catch of the day, there are many other recommended dishes on the menu, including the calamari, which is fried in a delicately crispy batter, and the balık köfte(fish croquette), which has a nice smoky flavor that pairs very well with the basil aioli on the side. The güveç dishes, which are cooked in earthenware pots with a rich tomato sauce, are made using heartier fish (such as sole) that can hold up against the intense flavors of the sauce.

The fish soup also comes highly recommended anda number of unexpected dishes are well worth a try. One such delicious surprise is the fish dürüm(similar to tortilla) with caramelized onions and arugula that has unexpectedly delicate flavors. Fürreyya also serves its version of mantı, a Turkish pasta dish similar to ravioli, swapping fish for the traditional ground meat stuffing. Yet despite these gourmet flavors, the prices are decidedly pedestrian, which allows Fürreyya to remain a favorite with neighborhood locals and epicureans alike.

Enstitü is now offering a set dinner menu in small portions (accompanied with wine) that allows foodies to explore a variety of delicious food prepared by Enstitü’s chefs. For April, this is what’s on offer for 65TL per person:

French Onion Soup

*

Purslane Salad, oven-baked crisp duck, boiled Moroccan couscous, sumac vinaigrette

Sarafin Sauvignon Blanc

*

Fresh Squid, fresh herbs, tarator sauce with walnuts

Sarafin Fume Blanc

*

Mini burger, potato chips, home-made ketchup and mayonnaise

Karma Cabernet Sauvignon-Öküzgözü

*

Rose Sorbet

*

Nectarine-flavored turkey tandouri, rice with saffron and almond

Karma Merlot-Boğazkere

*

Lavender Crème brûlée

Safir

The Best of the Rest

Kristal Büfe: One of the oldest burger houses in Istanbul that serve Turkish-style hamburgers that are made with köfte (spicy ground meet) between two buns, usually with toppings such as cheese, ketchup, and pickles.

Jumbo Burger: Their specialty mayonnaise is a mix of classic mayonnaise and honey. You should definitely try some for a unique french fries experience.

Kral Burger: Kral makes delicious burgers prepared with a special olive sauce. Classic.

Mano Burger: An alternative approach to burgers awaits you at Mano with a selection of Turkish style burgers. They even have a burger served with beğendi—a cream sauce made largely of pureed eggplant.

Numnum: If you are looking for a classic American burger, Numnum is the place to go!

Fol in Love: A popular newbie among burger joints. If indulging in their delicious burgers does not cut it for you, try their baked potatoes with heavy cream and parmesan sauce served in soufflé cups.

Susam: This 24/7 eatery is famous for its salads as well as its burgers.

Kızılkayalar: They serve special “wet” burgers—these small burgers are dipped in tomato sauce and steamed for hours, resulting in a moist and succulent burger. They may not look it, but these burgers are top-notch. I guarantee you’ll go for seconds!

Everyone has their personal preferences when it comes to burgers, from the size of the patty and the size of the bun to the selections of toppings, condiments, and sides. During my burger scout, I searched through the serious burger joints and found that the crème de la crème are Gourmet Burger Kitchen (GBK), Burger Bar, Dükkan Burger, and Burger House.

The Common Denominator:

1. They all use rib meat, either char-grilled or prepared on a lava-stone grill, flipped maximum 2 to 3 times to preserve their juices
2. All the ingredients are prepared in-house daily
3. They offer mini burgers (and most offer a “no-bun” option)
4. They all serve beef bacon rather than pork (and it unfortunately doesn’t taste as good)

Burger Bar

Burger Bar, the first burger joint of the European side of Istanbul, was intended to serve as a take-away and delivery shop rather than an eat-in restaurant. Yet, they swapped their first intentions for a full-blown enterprise and opened Burger Bar. The owners’ love of burgers formed the framework of their project, and they concentrated on getting the best quality ingredients all in one burger and tried various suppliers until they got it just right.

Coming all the way from the Trakya region, the meat at Burger Bar has the ideal fat ratio of 20\\% and is grounded in-house daily. The burgers were just right with the perfect size, shape, and taste. The size of the burger matches the size of a fist and the meat is neither too thin nor too thick, so your burger doesn’t break down even with a bunch of toppings and sauces. On the menu, you can find four original burgers, which are cooked to order and can be dressed up with several toppings. They have good fries but if you can’t decide between two burgers or a burger and fries, definitely go with two burgers!

French fry Meter:The first burger place in town to serve fried white potatoes! Burger Bar has three types of french fries: curly, shoestring, and wedges.

Best Sides Beside Fries:Falafel

GBK

A kiwi enterprise established in 2000,GBKchallenges the idea that a hamburger is just fast food, offering a unique approach by creating an elegant burger-eating experience in a stylish and (almost) fine-dining setting. Having won several awards on the burger front, this kiwi project was sold to Clapham House Group, which made it an international success. Yet, GBK stayed true to its vision: creating fresh fast food served in an elegant manner—on a plate, with a fork and knife.

GBK offers Gönen and Angus meat, the former being a district in Balıkesir. The meat is cooked to order but if you forget to specify, they’ll prepare it well done. A tough decision awaits you as the menu has over 25 burger selections, as well as a mix-and-match option with several sauces to create the burger to suit your mood. All burgers have juicy, top-notch beef (usually crowned with fresh lettuce, tomatoes, crispy red onion, cheddar cheese, and tomato relish) that is topped with their scandalous bun, which is fresh and soft, and crunchy on the outside.

French fry Meter:Gourmet Burger serves homemade french fries; they don’t have a killer taste, but at least they are not as greasy or unhealthy as the ones you usually come across!

Best sides Besides Fries:Cheese & Berry (which almost stole the show)

Dükkan Burger

DükkanBurger is a retro-style burger chain that first opened in 2004 as a butcher in Reşitpaşa, which then turned into a steakhouse in 2007, and then branched out as Dükkan Burger. The owners are brothers Emre and Bülent Mermer, who are the second generation in their family to deal with the proper nutrition of their livestock in İzmit. They get their meat from corn-fed heifer and suckling veal, resulting in enhanced flavor and tenderness of the patties. Trust me when I say they know their meat!

Unlike others, Dükkan prefers to keep it simple; although the menu offers some inventive burgers besides the classics, the menu doesn’t overwhelm the customer with too many options. Their patties have intense beef flavor, are cooked to order (although they prefer serving it medium), and are served on toasted sesame buns with lettuce, tomato, and onions. It’s simple, straightforward, and they know just how to serve a good burger!

French fry Meter:Although they use frozen potatoes, Dükkan has the best French fries among all. The lip-smacking fries are seasoned with salt and ground black pepper and appear even more inviting in their paper bags.

Best sides Beside Fries:Pickles (Ankara Çubuk Turşusu)

Burger House

Established by Kemal Özgürer and Özüm Sönmezalp,Burger Houserelies on quality: everything (including the potatoes) are prepared in-house daily. This eatery gives its customers a cozy feeling with its potato and onion filled barrels by the entrance, thick wooden tables, and of course it’s delicious burgers! The selection of burgers is overwhelming and, like many other burger joints, a mix-and-match option is available. Burger House’s flame-kissed patties are caramelized on the outside and the gooey cheese and tomato or corn relish add more juiciness to the mix. This burger joint is definitely worth a trip to the Asian side!

French fry Meter:Its burgers are so filling that you may not even ask for any fries, but if you do, rest assured that their fries are freshly made and delicious (especially when their sweet paprika is sprinkled on).

Best Sides Beside Fries:Haloumi Stick

The head chef is Emre Çapa, known locally as Istanbul nightlife royalty thanks to his father’s many successful ventures. Minyon is a perfect place to meet friends for after-work drinks, with its warm and elegant décor, and excellent service. Thanks to the terrific DJs that spin every night, this is also a great place to dance the night away.

Mr. Yazıcı, who is a native of Istanbul, spent many years in Austria where drinking wine constitutes a large part of the daily culture. After returning to Turkey with his wife Ursula, who is originally from Switzerland, they established the successful Swiss Restaurant in Yeniköy. Located in a lovely white house by the waterfront, the restaurant has been serving authentic Swiss food for years. After the success of this venture, Mr. Yazıcı decided to branch out and try something new. He had been very impressed by the wine culture in Austria and, on his return to Turkey, had noted that Istanbul has a shortage of places that are dedicated to wine appreciation. With this in mind, Mr. Yazıcı decided to open a venue with a very unique concept: inspired by a spot he visited on a trip to Lugano, Italy, he opened Riserva—a wine and music appreciation venue unlike any wine bar in town.

Located in the seaside district of Tarabya, Riserva is not a traditional wine bar, as Mr. Yazıcı stresses, but indeed, it is a contribution to Istanbul’s wine culture. Riserva’s layout is more like a home than a restaurant—in fact, Riserva is neither a home nor a restaurant but something in between; it is an unclassifiable and unique venue. Spread out over flour floors, which are open depending on the number of guests, Riserva is illuminated with soft, red lights, with CDs and records scattered throughout the rooms.

Mr. Yazıcı is determined to offer only the finest nd freshest produce; therefore, full meals are available only with advanced notice. In fact, reservations are essential to enjoy this unique experience. A wide selection of cheese and cured meats (such as prosciutto) are always available, while the rest of the menu varies, depending on reservations.

Anyone, who is familiar with wine importing in Turkey, knows that this is a highly consolidated industry in which only a handful of businesses dominate. While most restaurants work exclusively with just one wine importer, Mr. Yazıcı works with several in order to offer the best selection of wines available in Turkey.

Although Mr. Yazıcı underlines the fact that Riserva is a place to enjoy wine first and foremost, its food should not be underrated. We nibbled on a selection of delicious appetizers as we enjoyed our first glass of wine, a Chardonnay from Urla Şarapçılık located on Turkey’s Agean Coast. This light and fruity wine was perfectly paired with a piece of fresh peasant bread, flavorful tiger tomatoes, meaty green olives, and a huge round of crumbly Grana Padano. As we enjoyed our wine, we spoke to Mr. Yazıcı, who is often present and can speak passionately about every aspect of Riserva, from the wine and food, to the music that surrounds us.

Eventually, we moved on to our main meal which started with enormous jumbo prawns fresh from Mersin. Served with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and freshly ground black pepper, the prawns were deliciously tender and flavorful. Next, we had perfectly-grilled fresh sea bass with a side of arugula and buttery-herbed baby potatoes. With dinner, we enjoyed a velvety Pradaluppo from the Fontanafredda winery in Piedmont, Italy. Finally, we finished with a classic Austrian dessert called Sachertorte—a rich chocolate cake that is a famous culinary specialty of Vienna —which was served with an Austrian ice wine from Weingut Türk.

Rather than investing in flashy décor, Mr. Yazıcı has invested heavily in his wine list as well as top-of-the-line kitchen and wine-storing equipment. He has also installed a crystal-clear sound system on which to enjoy his refined collection of jazz and classical music that includes many rare recordings. If you’re lucky, you might even be privy to a live musical performance by well-known musicians, such as Aydın Esen, who often performs impromptu jam sessions.

After spending such an exceptional evening at Riserva, I have had the difficulty to box it into any one category. In fact, Mr. Yazıcı wants his visitors to keep on open mind and leave their preconceptions at the door, as it is only with an open mind that you can truly enjoy this very special venue.

Sadly, the experience does not live up to the hype. Money should certainly be no object for those who choose to dine at Cipriani. The prices of the meals are unreasonably high, at around 30-50 TL for starters and around 60-100 TL for mains. Yet even at these prices, what you get is rather unremarkable, lacking in flavor.

The wine list is very over-priced and was not even cooled properly on our visit. Turning to the décor, the feeling of the restaurant was very cramped and the furniture undersized, creating a stuffy atmosphere. The bright note was the service; the waiters were kind and attentive. It seems that Cipriani’s Istanbul branch has a long way to go before it can live up to its celebrated namesake.

Not surprisingly, the focus with the main dishes is on meats, with a wide range of grilled dishes, including hünkar beğendi (pureed eggplants with lamb) and kuzu tandır (tandoori-style lamb). Yet, vegetarians will never be at a loss for something to eat here, with a wide variety of hot and cold olive oil dishes (zeytinyağlılar),soups, and salads on offer. The restaurant is also famous for its fruit desserts, specifically its baked quince, served with a side of kaymak (clotted cream), and fruit compotes like those that line the restaurant shelves.

Because alcohol is not served, this restaurant is also a favorite with families. A significant drop in both the quality of the food and the service has been noted by a number of recent visitors who complain that the food is now bland and overrated, not to mention over-priced.

The interior of the restaurant is casual, warm, and cozy. The décor is modern but with retro touches, and even the bathrooms have been playfully decorated with matchbooks from restaurants in London, New York, and beyond.

Enstitü has quickly established itself as a favorite with both locals and tourists, as it offers a lighter take on traditional Turkish cuisine, often with a twist. For example, the traditional Turkish appetizer mücver, a vegetable fritter or pancake usually prepared with zucchini, is made instead with pumpkin. Drawing inspiration from Istanbul’s multi-ethnic past, we see a range of subtly layered flavors in dishes, such as the lamb stew with dried fruits,almonds, and sumac. Fans of the traditional Turkish dishes will also be satisfied by dishes, such as köfte (meatballs) with pita bread, yogurt, and tomato sauce.

And for those who are suffering from Turkish food-fatigue, the menu also features a number of international dishes, such as vegetables fried in a crisp tempura batter, Norwegian salmon with almond and walnut, and thyme roasted prawns served with pear carpaccio and a citrus emulsion. For dessert, be sure not to miss their homemade ice creams, which come in a range of flavors, including Turkish coffee, lavender, tahini, and green tea.

The cafe section on the first floor also features a gourmet counter where you can purchase a wide selection of jams, compote, vegetable sauces, and pickles freshly made with organic fruits and vegetables. Add excellent service and reasonable prices to the delicious food, and Enstitü is a real winner in the Istanbul culinary scene.

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Although the venue houses a Caffé Nero (a clear winner with caffeine-addicts), Blogger’s Base is not primarily a café. The Base is a truly unique enterprise as it offers a meeting point for ideas and serves as a creative forum. At Blogger’s Base, it is not all idle chat and artistic ego massaging—the place is clearly well on its way to becoming a magnet for any forward-thinking company looking to invest in young artists who have their finger on the pulse of what’s going on in Istanbul and who can reflect that in blog form.

Hidden in a side street of Galata like a well-kept secret, Blogger’s Base is quite extraordinary with its décor and reflects the eclectic taste and wide-ranging interests of its founder Mansur ‘riffmaister’ Forutan. Having worked as a writer and editor for FHM, a music producer, and a designer, Mansur has a finger in most blog-related pies at the venue.

Walking in Blogger’s Base, you are greeted by an entrance area filled with old LP records and walls overlaid with record covers from the 70s and 80s. Up some stairs lies the Nero outlet and beyond that, the Base itself—comfortable sofas and armchairs with a distinctly modern feel, a few laptops, tables covered in retro magazines, board games, and generally bizarre paraphernalia. Amongst the eclectic furniture and busy people blogging away, there is a small recording set in the corner, which functions as a mini studio for the rock band that has already established itself there. A chessboard shaped like Africa and featuring wooden African pieces (like a roughly hewn giraffe in place of a knight) was a particular favorite, along with a phallic pink telephone, an inexplicable Welsh flag, and a tic-tac-toe board. The bright young things tapping away at computers were for the most part intimidatingly well-dressed and aged in their 20s and early 30s, talking amongst themselves or engrossed in their blog, macchiato forgotten beside them.

Mansur is all in favor of people coming and going, exchanging ideas, and generally having a good time. He does not seem to have a detailed game plan, and that is part of the charm of the Base. The venue features an unfinished part downstairs, which is currently being converted into a stage for concerts and readings. This is exciting stuff, and probably one of many innovations that will take place over the coming months. Watch this blog.

The menu at Kiva changes every day, reflecting the venue’s aspirations to be regarded as a restaurant offering freshly-prepared, constantly-updated varieties of favorite dishes. For lunch, my friend and I started off with some meze—zatar (a parsley salad), Çerkez tavuğu (Circassian chicken), and bulgur köftesi (a kind of doughnut-shaped ball made of crushed wheat in a tomato sauce). The chicken was particularly good, the parsley fresh as a daisy, and I was cautiously optimistic for the main dishes, which turned out to be truly excellent.

Our first main was a plate of mixed dolmas (stuffed vine leaves) including baklalı (with fava beans), erikli (with prunes), and etli (with meat). The etli dolma was the best, comprised of tiny packets of vine leaves stuffed with meat and rice. The erikli dolma was long and thin, shaped like elegant cigarettes, while the baklalı came in larger packets encasing chopped pieces of fava beans.

We then had the slow-cooked lamb in pilav (rice), which was brought to the table in a conical ceramic dish by a waiter beaming with barely-contained pride. The dish was very simple but very delicious, tender, and aromatic. On the side, a black-eyed-bean salad with parsley and tomato, and a dish of yogurt and dill were the perfect accompaniments. After all the delicious food, which I wouldn’t hesitate to order again, the baklava to finish off was predictably good.

The waiter was very forthcoming in recommending dishes, with good results—the dolma platter was a master stroke. Inside the restaurant (I was basking in the winter sun outside), there is a buffet for those who want to bypass both the menu and the waiters’ suggestions, but as far as I could see they were the same dishes. There is a sumptuous sounding breakfast available every day from 8am until 5pm, and the restaurant is busier in the evenings with a tourist influx. I would urge Istanbul locals to head there and challenge the tourists for the outdoor tables, with their view of Galata Tower and excellent people-watching positioning. Overall, a wonderful Anatolian experience, combining delicious food and a unique location.

The chefs Gencay and Gulabi have obviously spent years perfecting their imaginative and mouthwatering versions of each dish, and will make sure you aren’t just well-fed, but also well-educated about each and every item on the menu. Situated directly across from the historic Pera Palace Hotel, the creative cuisine, cozy atmosphere, and multilingual staff will make you feel simply a ‘MEZE’ing.

The restaurant's accomplished chef Didem Şenol studied at the renowned French Culinary Institute of New York and even has a cookbook. Having travelled extensively around the country’s Aegean coast, she has in-depth knowledge of the region’s products. Maya is sparkling clean, and while the décor may be a little too minimal for some people’s taste, it helps keep the focus just where it ought to be – on the food.

I recently had a chance to try their tapas-style dishes that are packed with intense flavors. Max, the hyper-talented cook of Istanbul’s culinary stage, plays with unexpected ingredients and creates dishes that catch you off guard and delight you.

The concept here is to sample small portions of fine food without compromising your budget. The dishes are 1/3 of a regular portion—another reason to try all of Max’s creations at one go!

The menu changes every month and, once you’ve tried Max’s inventive food, you will be compelled to come back and try his new creations. You will find, as I did, that discovering the harmony of a gamut of ingredients is an experience in itself. I was personally intrigued by the creative and experimental nature of the chef and tried most of the mains from his December 2010 menu. I have to admit, the surprisingly delicious combination of the salmon & pear pizza still lingers in my mind.

It was not just the food that was memorable from LilBitz. Designed by the adorable Sema, the interior was just as gripping. The asymmetric shelves of the bar, the map-like ceiling décor, the blend of emerald-green with wooden-pieces create a dynamic and cozy atmosphere.

After midnight, LilBitz turns into a lively club featuring different DJs on different nights. The music is not confined to one genre; you will dance to pop, hip hop, house, the 80s, and some Turkish music (usually played towards the end of the night). To get you going, I strongly recommend Max’s apple-ginger vodka cocktail. Trust me, you’ve never tasted anything like it before and you will, I promise, keep coming back for it.

Here is a list of the participating restaurants: 37, Aşşk Kahve, Beymen Brasserie, Cafe Inn, Cafe Wien, Cafe Zone, Casita, Cento Per Cento, Corridor, Delicatessen, Den Cafe, Galata, Hünkar, Kırıntı, Köşebaşı, Mania Gourmet, Midpoint, Nisantasion, Park Hyatt İstanbul “The Prime”, Park Şamdan, Passage 55, Piyasa, Ranchero, Maybe Salomanje, Sushico, The House Cafe Teşvikiye, Therapy, Tribeca, Touch Down, Zanzibar, Creperie ve Food Factory.

The décor shows clear signs of a European hand at work, and indeed one half of the management and Joost Roojmans (one of the founders) are from Europe. Roojmans, a Dutchman far from home turf teamed up with wife Aliye Turagay to create Bird as an innovative new breed of restaurants/bars having successfully run 8 Istanbul in Beyoğlu for some years prior to Bird.

Walking in, past lofty potted palms, one is greeted by a surprisingly small interior, albeit with high ceilings and a sweeping marble-topped bar with shelves of exciting liquors illuminated on the wall at the back. Hipsters sit nonchalantly on bar stools sipping martinis while gifted barmen dip and dive with shot glasses and pieces of fruit, occasionally incorporating a sly dance move into their routine as the revved-up lounge music plays. The whole bar is, quite frankly, a tour de force.

The 10 or so dining tables make for a cozy dining experience and the food is actually very good. Among the myriad of Turkish and international dishes on offer, I can recommend, without hesitation, the lamb shank (kuzu incik) of unparalleled tenderness, the avocado salad with goat cheese (Avocado, Keçi Peyniri, Domates), and the Thai beef (Thai Usulü Bonfile). While many of the dishes have a fusion element, for example the Asian-style grilled shrimp (Asya Usulü Izgara Karides) and the tuna tartar, others are very Turkish (mantı, çiğ börek, and köfte among others). The prices are not small but they are actually O.K. considering the smart vibe of the place (expect to pay around 30TL for a main dish at dinner). Those who can, by all means order the King crab at 100TL.

On to drinks: the impressive bar is not all razzle-dazzle. You have the full gamut of cocktails featured on the menu, but feel free to ask for an adaptation—for example, I ordered a caipirinha and then asked for some mint as an afterthought. The barman very politely declined to pass comment on my failure to order a mojito in the first place. In addition to cocktails, any kind of aperitif, digestive, or whisky is yours for the taking. A comprehensive wine list is also available, with mainly foreign wines apart from a handful of Turkish ones.

Next time I go to Bird I plan to order the house specialty cocktail—the ‘Bird Margharita’ prepared with tequila, fresh pomegranate juice, orange liqueur, and lemon juice. I also plan to be one of those enviably cool people actually on the premises on a Friday or Saturday night. Here’s to trying.

Undoubtedly, rice is the main common ingredient for both pilaf and risotto. However, unlike pilaf, risotto is very seldom prepared plain. As a result, the type of rice grain used differs substantially.

Arborio and carnaroli, which are round, short grain and sticky, are the preferred choices for risotto. On the other hand, to get the best results when cooking pilaf, it is best to use a long grain rice such as basmati or jasmine. Simply put, there is no dish that is more basic, comforting and adaptable than pilaf or risotto. If you plan on preparing either dish, the extent of your creativity is the only limit.

Pilaf is best combined with nuts, dried fruits or countless spices, while risotto is best paired with seafood, a variety of mushrooms or even red wine. Nevertheless, some sort of liquid is a requirement for both: risotto likes to dance slowly with the liquid mixture, while rice enjoys absorbing it into its soul.

The first rule when preparing a good pilaf dish is to first soak the rice in salted water for about half an hour to remove the extra starch and eliminate its stickiness. The second essential requirement is to use real butter (not margarine or olive oil). Once the butter melts, stir in the rice and mix frequently so that each grain is coated with a small amount of butter. Then, pour in your liquid of choice: this can be plain water or broth (chicken, meat or vegetable), just enough to cover the surface of the rice. Once it starts boiling, let it simmer on low heat without anymore intervention.

Etymologically, pilaf derives from its Persian roots pillow or cilow. As it migrated towards eastern Anatolia, it gained a new name: çilav. Finally, after many years and dialects, the name became widely known as pilaf. There are three major methods of cooking pilaf: salma, kavurma and buryani. Salma is when rice is cooked by just simmering it with liquid. The kavurma technique is when other ingredients such as onions or nuts are sautéed in melted butter, oil or meat fat before the rice and broth or liquid is added. Lastly, when preparing buryani style pilaf, pre-cooked meat, fish or vegetables are added to the cooked pilaf and then left to simmer together before serving.

Throughout Turkey there are numerous different methods for preparing pilaf, depending on the agricultural produce available in the region, and of course the cultural traditions of the community. For instance, in the Circassian communities, pilaf is prepared with coriander and simply called circassian pilavı. Along the Black Sea coast, pilaf prepared with anchovies (hamsi), a local fish, is a part of almost everyone’s daily diet. Another common pilaf dish in many regions is prepared with fried cubes of eggplant, garlic, tomatoes, cumin, coriander and a pinch of sugar. Pehlili Pilavı, a common dish in central Anatolia is plain pilaf, cooked with the juice of lamb and sometimes served with boiled chickpeas.

For almost all Turks, pilaf is like the lyrics of a song. Just like a song is meaningless without its words, a main course without a side dish of pilaf is unimaginable in most Turkish homes. In fact, most of the time, it is considered a ‘foundation dish’ as often the main course is served on top of the pilaf. Specifically, a meat dish served without a side of pilaf, would be like a hamburger served without the bun!

If you are just serving vegetable dishes and pilaf is not served, more than likely, your guests will leave the table still hungry. Just like an intermezzo, pilaf is often consumed in order to clense the palate between courses. For example, when pilaf is served with hoşaf, a ‘soupy’ fruity dessert, the sweetness perfectly plays off the fatty starches of the pilaf.

On the other hand, risotto is a ‘solo’ player. In Italian menus, it is placed between l'antipasto, which literally means ‘before the meal’ and il secondo (main courses). Risottos are placed in the il primo section alongside other carbohydrate laden options. When cooking risotto, the rice grain needs to be short grain and round: Arborio, Carnaroli, Vialone Nano or Baldo are the most popular choices. Due to its absorption ability, short grain rice tends to have more concentrated flavors and takes on a more distinctive saucy texture when broth is added.

Although it might appear that preparing risotto is labor intensive, this is actually not the case, as it ofen takes only about half an hour to prepare this fulfilling dish. The first step when preparing risotto is to sauté onions in melted butter, oil or meat fat. Once onions are soft, the rice is added and further sautéed in a stainless steel pot for a few minutes.

This process is called tostatura, which means to coat the rice grains with fat. At this point wine is added for both fruitiness and acidity. The wine can be white or red, depending on the type of risotto being made. For example, if preparing Risotto Barolese (typical to the Barolo region in Piemonte), red wine from the same region is added. Also, adding the wine before the broth allows the rice to reduce the excess alcohol of the wine. After all the wine is absorbed, you can start adding your broth. Chicken, meat, vegetable or even shellfish broth are among the options. If you do not wish to use broth, plain water can also be used, but the richness of the flavor will suffer.

The first time you pour the broth, make sure there is enough to cover the surface of the rice and that you are cooking over moderate heat. Even though you need not stir the mixture excessively, it is important that you do not leave the pot unattended. It is time to add more broth once you notice that the amount of liquid remaining has substantially reduced, otherwise the starches may burn quickly.

Conversely, adding too much broth will make the risotto soggy. At the 2nd pouring stage, add salt. In total, it will take approximately 20 to 30 minutes to cook risotto by adding 5-6 ladles of broth as it reduces down. The final, essential step is called montecatura: add butter and grated parmesan cheese, stirring once or twice before letting the dish settle. Risotto can be considered a main course in itself and does not require any accompaniment the way rice pilaf does.

Risotto can be prepared plain or anything and everything from mushrooms, asparagus and saffron to fish can be added during cooking, it’s totally up to the imagination of the chef! But one important note to make: when adding fish, shellfish or fresh herbs to the dish, it must be done right before adding parmesan cheese. Just as there are do's, the don’ts when preparing risotto include: adding cream; adding too much or too little liquid (broth); waiting too long to serve the dish; using low quality parmesan cheese and confusing the stages of adding the ingredients.

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Some options on where to eat pilaf in Istanbul:
Located in the heart of the Galata district, Kivahan is the place to experience the transition from traditional to modern era cooking. The menu changes daily, offering different tastes from Anatolia and beyond. Pilaf dishes include Pehlili pilaf from Tokat and Alatlı pilaf with dried grapes.

Çiya is the restaurant of choice on the Asian side of the city for down home Turkish food in casual surroundings at modest prices. Be sure to try the Perde Pilavı rice dish.

Established in 1876, Hacı Abdullah’s menu includes around 150 Turkish and Ottoman dishes daily! A specialty rice dish at this eatery is Iç Pilavı.

Hünkar is also a household name for Turkish cuisine and always gets high marks from diners. You can dine at Hünkar in Etiler and Nişantaşı on the European side of the city or in Göztepe on the Asian side. Pilaf with anchovies is one of Hünkar’s great rice dishes.

Kanaat has been open since 1933 and is another place to go on the Asian side of the city for typical Turkish cuisine. Kanaat’s Eggplant (patlıcan) pilaf is particularly good.

Konyalı is another longstanding and prominent eatery with several branches throughout the city. Their branch at Kanyon shopping mall, where you can try their staple Saray Pilavı dish.

Open since 1901 Pandeli is something of an Istanbul institution, specializing in Turkish and Greek cuisines: the Domatesli Pilav (pilaf with tomatoes) is recommended.

Some options on where to eat risotto in Istanbul:

Da Mario is located in a lovely secluded villa in Etiler with indoor and outdoor dining areas. The wild mushroom risotto comes highly recommended.

Located on the 2nd floor of the museum with the same name, but independently managed, Istanbul Modern Restaurant prepares a very good seafood risotto. Views of the old city and Bosphorus are thrown in at no extra cost!

The chic and trendy 10-plus year old Paper Moon is still by far the most popular Italian restaurant in town. It is always a good idea to make a reservation, as it is usually full for both lunch and dinner. Chef Giuseppe Presane’s risotto with porcini mushrooms is recommended.

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Esnaf restaurants have been around since the first days of the Ottoman Empire when Istanbul was (and very much still is) an important port and a very busy trading center where thousands of merchants lived and practised their trade. When eating out, tradesmen wanted the tastes of home: the meals prepared by their wives and mothers. While the master chefs behind the food at an esnaf lokanta are generally large, moustachioed and unquestionably male, they do a good job of replicating the dishes prepared by these tradesmen’s womenfolk toiling away in the family kitchen. If they didn’t, they wouldn’t get any custom – these customers are very discerning.

Here we give 7 of our favorite esnaf lokantas, which we recommend both for those who are on a budget, and for those who may be filthy rich but want to try out Turkish home cooking!

Aslan Restaurantis a stone’s throw from the Nuruosmaniye entrance to the Grand Bazaar on Vezirhan Street. Located on the 2^nd floor of a commercial building, this modestly decorated eatery can hold up to 60 people and faces the street overlooking the Grand Bazaar. Named after owner Aslan Karakoç, head chef Adem Kılıç and his team of 3 assistants have been in charge of the kitchen since it opened in 1988.

The menu changes daily and consists of approximately 10 hot dishes, 6 olive oil dishes and a variety of classic Turkish desserts. What makes Aslan different from most tradesman restaurants is the fact that fish is served. Depending on the season, sea bass, gilt-head bream, salmon and blue fish are some of the choices offered – grilled or stewed. Tea and Turkish coffee is on the house.

Doyuran Loktantasıstands out among all the other eateries in the area in the Kumkapı District: it is the only restaurant in the neighborhood that does not serve alcohol, appetizers or fish and stands alone among the fish restaurants in this touristy neighborhood where eating, drinking, loud conversation and singing along to the live music is the norm! It is a small, charming eatery owned and managed by husband and wife Musa and Aynur Ergenç and their son. Ms. Ergenç prepares 8 to 10 hot dishes and kuru fasulye pilav (navy beans and rice pilaf) is always on the menu. Only two desserts are served: tel kadayıfı (shredded wheat soaked in syrup) and sütlaç(rice pudding). Doyuran does not charge extra for water and bread. Tea and Turkish coffee are on the house.

Fasuli Lokantası was born in 2001. 27 year-old owner Mehmet Akif Köse is quite the entrepreneur if you consider that he was only 19 years old when the restaurant was established: then only a tiny little eatery with 4 tables in the neighborhood of Cerrahpaşa. Today, they have 4 branches throughout the city and the main branch is in Tophane (a neighborhood between Karaköy and Kabataş) with indoor and outdoor seating areas. The main dish at Fasuli is kuru fasulye pilav(white bean pilav). The Fasuli recipe for this dish is a jealously guarded secret – all we know is that the result is delicious. All the dishes are from the Black Sea Region and favorites include Hemşin Mıhlaması(prepared with maize flour, butter and cheese) and Karalahana Sarması(stuffed kale or savoy cabbage). Desserts include tel kadayıfı (shredded wheat in syrup), baklavaand Laz Böreği (Black Sea region specialty – layered pastry with a creamy filling).

Güler Osmanlı Mutfağı, in Kadiköy on the Asian side of town, has a capacity for 75 people and is decorated with black and white photographs of Old Istanbul, while the tables are adorned with old postcards. The day starts at 8:30am with a different soup served throughout the week. For lunch and dinner, about 12-14 hot dishes, a variety of kebabs and 4-5 cold olive oil dishes are prepared. Some favorites include Hünkâr Beğendi (Sultan’s Delight – prepared with lamb and eggplant), keşkek(pounded wheat and meat dish), beğendili köfte (Turkish style meatballs served on a bed of eggplant puree) and galaçoş(lentil, onion and yogurt dish). But the list is much longer and includes many more delicious Ottoman cuisine dishes worth trying. The dessert specialties are the Osmanlı Tatlısı(prepared with shredded wheat, walnuts and yogurt) andPadişah Tatlısı (prepared with semolina halvah and cream).

Havuzlu Restaruant is situated next to the Grand Bazaar and is decorated with tiles from Iznik, copper, old prints and antique carpets. You can opt to dine at the restaurant’s outer courtyard or inside, where you will see the small pool that it was named after (“havuzlu” means “with a pool”) in the center of the restaurant. The tables are adorned with “chemin de table” tablecloths and the wait staff wears uniforms according to their rank. Chef Osman Kıraç has been in charge since 2002 and works with his 4 assistants preparing about 20 hot and cold dishes daily. Additionally, döneris served. Desserts include the “traditional” şekerpareand kemalpaşa(soft pastry desserts in syrup) along with fırın sütlaç(baked rice pudding) andkrem karamel(crème caramel): the ayva tatlısı(quince) dessert is a headliner on the menu, but only available in the winter.

Tarihî Subaşı Lokantası is located in an old historical building, again near the Grand Bazaar. One of the best tradesmen’s restaurants in the city, this eatery opened in 1961 and is managed by the Görür family, originally from Thessalonica. Tarihî Subaşı is now managed by the third generation Kemal Veysel Görür. He states that not much has changed since his grandfather’s time: the recipes are the same, however, now instead of butter; vegetable oil is used in preparing the dishes. The staff is also longstanding: chef Mustafa Yener has been in charge of the kitchen since 1992 and restaurant manager Mehmet Karanfil has been on the job since 1971! One problem with the venue is that since it is a historical building, renovations are not allowed and the kitchen cannot be expanded. Even so, roughly 40 dishes (8 of which are cold olive oil dishes) are available daily and consist of meat, chicken, vegetable and fish that are boiled, stewed or oven baked: the soup and dessert selection changes daily.

Yanyalı Fehmi Lokantası is on the Asian side of the city in Kadıköy, and has a capacity for 200 people, fairly unusual for a traditional esnaf lokanta .The dining area in the back is glass encased, airy and decorated with rock reliefs, flowers and plants. The selections are quite extensive with an astonishing 19 types of soup, 9 varieties of rice dishes, kebabs, grills, vegetable and cold olive oil dishes, fish and desserts among others. All dishes are depicted with pictures: descriptions are written in Turkish and English and all are prepared with either peanut or olive oil. The specialty of the house is Yanyan Köftesi – Turkish style meatballs prepared with chopped meat (beef & lamb), eggplant, tomatoes, hazelnuts and spices.