Tucked away in the tiny village of Ulupelit 45 minutes away from Istanbul, Lavanda is a family-owned haven where 13 cozy rooms await city dwellers, embellished with a country house atmosphere, the comfort of your own home, and expansive views.

This family-owned boutique hotel serves to complement the busy Istanbul life, allowing Istanbulites to wind down, relax, and master the art of doing nothing. The hotel is complete with uniquely designed rooms, a state-of-the-art restaurant, a heavenly spa, and the breathtaking beauty of nature.

Whether you like to pamper or break a sweat, Lavanda promises a dose of much-deserved downtime.

The Food

Even if you can’t pull yourself away from the city for an entire weekend, spending a few hours at Lavanda is well worth the drive. The best way to enjoy the hotel is to go there on a near-empty stomach and indulge in the refined Mediterranean cuisine of the restaurant.

One of the reasons why all the dishes at Lavanda are so delicious is that only the best ingredients are used. The Black Trumpet Mushroom is picked in Ulupelit village, chestnuts come from Zonguldak, artichokes make their way from Çeşme, and foie gras comes all the way from France. Chef Emre Şen even has a spice garden where he grows basil, rosemary, tarragon, and a variety of other spices.

You can adventure through the menu with their tasting menu or the a la carte menu. On a recent visit, we opted for the tasting menu, which started off with a not-to-be-missed chestnut and mushroom soup made with chestnuts from Zonguldak, morel mushrooms, and black truffles. The tuna tartar (with sourdough crisps, wild thyme, and pine nuts) and mushroom & goat cheese fondue topped with slow poached egg that followed were utter perfection. After the prosciutto-filled home-made ravioli with pear, gorgonzola, and walnuts, we had a refreshing lime sorbet. The highlight of the menu for meat lovers was the chevon (slow-cooked for 10 hours), with grainy mustard mashed potatoes and asparagus.

The Wine

There is an extensive wine list including selections from Germany, Italy, France, Turkey, Australia, the United States, South Africa, Spain, Portugal, New Zealand, Argentine, and Chile. A welcoming surprise is the inclusion of two selections of white wine from Greece. If you feel overwhelmed by the options or don’t want to go through the 10-page-long wine list, ask your waiter to pair your food with a bottle of wine.

What to Do Once You’re there?

Lavanda is the ideal I-left-the-world-behind hotel - you know, birds chirping, wind brushing through leaves, fresh air, and an inviting landscape. You can cozy up with a cup of tea or savor a glass of fine wine or cognac by the fireplace. After you’re slightly tipsy, try your hand at billiards in the game room, or sober up with a walk in the forest or bike through what seems like the wilderness to a true urbanite. If it’s warm enough, take a dip in the pool. Nearby facilities can satisfy all your outdoorsy cravings, with a rally track, hunting grounds, and a club for adventure sports like hiking, ATV, and paintball.

The Spa

When you’re ready to retreat back into inaction, pamper yourself at the spa. Get a facial treatment with Darphin products or let the Balinese therapists transport you to another dimension with Ayurvedic, Hawaiian, Balinese, Shiatsu, Thai, Swedish, Reflexology, or hot stone massages. But whatever you do, don’t miss out on the sauna and jacuzzi complete with a view of the forest!

Make it a Romantic Getaway for Two

Anyone wanting to woo their better half in an intimate setting should consider a romantic getaway at Lavanda. Cuddle under a blanket, bond over your shared passion for great food, and just enjoy the company of each other. And do not forget about the jacuzzi!

How to Get there

Cross from Europe to Asia over the Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge, take the Şile exit and keep going straight. After driving 7-8km, you’ll pass through Çekmeköy. Another 15km later, you’ll pass through Ömerli. You’ll see a sign for Ulupelit (see the photo above) - take that exit. You’ll come across a large mosque where you’ll need to turn right. Soon after, you’ll see a small pinkish sign for Lavanda – just follow that and you’ll reach the hotel. Just watch out for cows on the road and keep in mind that they won't back up, you'll have to move around them.

Lavanda Boutique Hotel & Restaurant; Ulupelit Köyü Seçkin Sokak No. 2, Şile; P: (0216) 736 56 40. For more details, check out the hotel's website here.

The Aliva Spa offers hot stone therapy, aromatherapy, reflexology, and a range of massages, including Thai, Balinese, Shiatsu, Swedish, pregnancy, Indian head massage, and more. The many facilities include a large pleasure pool, a bio sauna, a Finnish sauna and bath, a Turkish bath, an ice fountain, a shock shower, and more. A range of body and skin treatments are also available, and couples can reserve the private sauna and jacuzzi rooms. With so many relaxation options, Güral Sapanca is the perfect place to rest your mind, body, and soul.Güral Sapanca Wellness Park; Tepebaşı Mahallesi Şehit Cevdet Koç Caddesi No. 73 Kırkpınar, Sapanca; P: (0264) 242 56 00;www.guralsapanca.com

Divan Çukurhan Hotel is located in Ankara’s old town, in an area known as Kaleiçi. It is across from the main gate of the old city, in a neighborhood that was historically used as a horse market. It is housed in a traditional Anatolian caravanserai – a roadside inn for travelers journeying across long distances to trade their wares. Caravanserai were particularly prevalent along the Silk Road, a trade network of interconnecting routes that, at its peak, stretched across southern Europe to Asia and North Africa. They were important because they not only provided shelter for traders and their beasts of burden, but were also vibrant hubs of commerce and vital for the exchange of information.

Built in 1522, the Çukurhan caravanserai is one of Ankara’s most important early Ottoman buildings. Constructed partly with finished stone, and partly with timber and sun-baked bricks, the center contained a large open courtyard that was used as an open-air market. For centuries, Çukurhan provided what were then considered luxury accommodations for travelers along these routes, and played an important role in the city’s economy as a center of commerce, selling everything from fruits and grains to the city’s famous Mohair wool. However, in 1950, the building was severely damaged by a major fire, which destroyed a large part of the original structure, and led to its eventual abandonment.

In 2007, the Koç Group, headed by Mr. Rahmi Koç, leased the property from the Turkish government and began restorations. Rahmi Koç is one of the country’s most high-profile businessmen, and is an epic figure in Turkey today. He owns banks, hotels, museums, and more, and is also known as a philanthropist and a passionate and refined collector. His father was Vehbi Koç, one of the country’s wealthiest men and founder of Koç Holding Corp., Turkey’s largest industrial conglomerate.

Restorations took two and a half years to complete, with great care taken to preserve the original state of the building. Whenever possible, original materials and building techniques were used. Of course, some changes to the original structure were made out of necessity, including covering the courtyard with a glass roof, which allows natural sunlight to stream in while also protecting the sun-baked bricks.

As striking as the building itself is the interior design and the many decorative items on display throughout the hotel. Each one of the hotel’s 19 guest rooms is decorated with a different concept or theme, including Bamboo, Indian, British, Ottoman, Tibetan, German, Venetian, Bosphorus, and Beijing. The rooms seamlessly blend the antique and new items to very tasteful effect, with each room transporting you to a different world. Every room in the hotel is of deluxe standard, and includes a comfy seating area with all the amenities needed to make you feel right at home, including a swiveling, wall-mounted flat-screen television, an espresso machine, fresh fruit and Turkish delights, and pillows and duvets so fluffy you’ll feel like you’ve landed in a cloud. Meanwhile, the bathrooms are all wall-to-wall marble in green, brown, or cream, with toiletries from Molton Brown.

The interior design was done by Turkish designer Neşe Ergin and Barbara Ther, a Londonbased interior designer and antiques dealer who is a good friend of Mr. Koç. Ms. Ther has worked with Mr. Koç on many projects. She oversaw the design of his Istanbul yalı (Bosphorus mansion) and has helped build his vast antique collection over many years. In fact, pieces from Mr. Koç’s private antique collection are displayed throughout the hotel.

This is the type of hotel where once you enter, you won’t want to leave and could easily be a visitor destination in and of itself. There is a small, cozy bar decorated with photos of historical Ankara, and a study that features a unique library as well as various African masks, safari memorabilia, and mounted animal heads, giving the impression that you’ve stepped back in time to another era. The covered courtyard has a dining section as well as a relaxation area with a small indoor stream and leather sofas, where you can sit back with a book or a friend.

Breakfast is served in the courtyard in the Avlu restaurant and features a mouthwatering selection of classic Turkish breakfast items, including regional cheeses, olives, jams, honeycomb, and clotted cream, as well as a hot menu featuring both Turkish and European dishes. On weekends, there are live musical performances, which alternate between classical and jazz, helping to make this a popular brunch spot with locals.

The hotel’s other dining option is the Çengelhan restaurant, which is actually located in an adjacent building, the Rahmi M. Koç Museum. Offering traditional Turkish cuisine, this is widely regarded as one of the top restaurants in the city, and is a member of the prestigious culinary Chaines des Rotisseurs, an international gastronomic society. Also located in a glass-covered courtyard, Çengelhan offers an atmospheric dining experience, where you enjoy your meal surrounded by museum displays.

In fact, when staying at the Divan Çukurhan, a visit to this museum is a must. Opened in 2005, this museum has a wide collection that features many items related to transportation and communication, from toys to equipment. This museum has special meaning for Mr. Koç as it contains a restored version of the general store where his father first worked as a young boy, selling everything from spices to Mohair. It was in that store that the elder Koç took his first steps into commerce, starting down a path that would eventually lead to a business empire.

Although a relatively new city, Ankara still offers a number of interesting sights and museums, which can easily fill a weekend. When Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, the founder of modern Turkey, named the town (then known as Angora) the capital of the newly founded Turkish republic, city planners decided not to touch the historic town located inside the old city walls. Consequently, this area still retains its character in its winding dusty streets and historical buildings, many of which have been restored over the past decade. While there are a number of restaurants housed in restored Ottoman homes, known as konaks, the most noteworthy building is the citadel itself, which dates back to the Galatians, with the Byzantine emperor Michael II and the Selçuks making further additions. Enough of the original structure remains to give an idea of what the citadel looked like, and its hilltop location offers sweeping views over the city.

One of the sightseeing highlights of any visit to Ankara must surely be the world-famous Museum of Anatolian Civilizations, also located right by the old town in a historical building that dates back to the 15th century. This displays an incredible collection of artifacts from important archeological sites all over Anatolia, with a particularly impressive section on Hittite artifacts, including superb sculpture and jewelry items. For some more recent history, you can visit the old parliament building, or Anıtkabir, the mausoleum for Atatürk. And if all that history wears you out, Ankara also offers a number of very pleasant parks and boulevards for strolling, shopping, and eating, particularly in the Tunalı and Kavaklıdere districts.

Whether it’s business or sightseeing that brings you to Ankara, anyone who appreciates luxury and history will find the Divan Çukurhan Hotel the ideal place to stay. With a wonderful attention to detail in both the décor and the service, this hotel makes for a truly memorable stay, and leaves you with the feeling of having witnessed living history. The many works of art it holds from Mr. Koç’s private collection give it a very personal feel, as though the whole project were a labor of love. Mr. Koç has been quoted as saying that acquiring pieces for his many antique collections is “an unending story.” If this is so, then this hotel is surely an important chapter in the tale.

Tarihi Ankara Kalesi, Necatibey Mahallesi, Depo Sokak No:3 Altındağ Ulus, Ankara; P: (0312) 306 64 00

Originally published in The Guide Istanbul September/October 2011

Edirne, a historical city once known as Hadrianopolis (Adrianople), about a three hours’ drive northwest of Istanbul, was the capital of the nascent Ottoman Empire from 1365 to 1453, and is chock-full of historical sites including the extraordinary 16th-century Selimiye Camii. The city is small enough to be explored on foot, and fortunately many of Edirne’s best eateries are located in the center of town near the main street known as Saraçlar Caddesi. A trip to Edirne would not be complete without trying ciğer tava (fried liver), a local specialty for nearly a century and a half. Forget about the unappetizing servings of liver you had to endure as a child, and give this crispy treat a try – you won’t regret it. Ciğer tava can be enjoyed at many restaurants in downtown Edirne, among them the renowned Ciğercisi Kazım & İlhan Usta on Osmaniye Caddesi, parallel to Saraçlar Caddesi. This Edirne fixture serves ciğer tava (made from calf’s liver) according to a meticulous recipe that has remained unchanged for more than four decades.

Ciğercisi Kazım & İlhan Usta; Balıkpazarı, Osmaniye Caddesi No: 43, Edirne; P: (0284) 212 12 80

While köfte restaurants are not unique to Edirne, the city does feature one establishment that serves a superlative version of this meatball dish. Tahmis Köftecisi, on a pleasant little square in the city center, has a modest appearance that belies its excellent food. Don’t come here expecting a wide range of dishes to choose from: Tahmis’s menu, featuring little more than köfte and some accompanying dishes (soup, piyaz, künefe) is literally printed on the side of its napkin-holders. Nonetheless, their perfectly-cooked köfte is – in the author’s opinion – the best in Turkey.

Tahmis Köftecisi; Sabuni Mahallesi, Tahmis Çarşısı No: 6, Edirne; P: (0284) 213 30 92

How to get to Edirne: Car (D100 or TEM highway); Bus (frequent departures by Metro as well as other companies);

To the south of Istanbul, accessible by bus and fast ferry, is the medium-sized city of Bursa. Like Edirne, which it preceded as the capital of the Ottoman Empire, this is a city rich in history, and is still important today as a center of Turkey’s automotive and textile industries. While you should reserve plenty of time on your day-trip to see the major sites of Bursa (the Ulu Cami, the Koza Han and İpek Han, the Yeşil Cami and Yeşil Türbe, etc.), a visit would not be complete without a stop at the historic Kebapçı İskender. For those who have never tried it before, İskender kebap is a rich, heavy dish of sliced döner with browned butter, yogurt, and tomato sauce. While many eateries in Turkey use words like “İskender,” “Bursa,” etc., in their names, this restaurant, dating back to 1867, was founded by İskender İskenderoğlu, the creator of İskender kebap. (It is currently run by his grandson Yavuz İskenderoğlu.) As at Tahmis Köftecisi, the menu offerings are limited here, consisting of a few different varieties of İskender kebap, plus şıra (grape juice) and Kemalpaşa tatlısı, but this is the genuine article – and it’s good. You can order your İskender kebap in regular or extra-sized portions, and can also order it eti bol – with pieces of beef added to the slices of lamb döner.

Kebapçı Yavuz İskenderoğlu İskender; Ünlü Cadde No: 7, Şehir Merkezi, Bursa; P: (0224) 221 46 15

How to get to Bursa: Car; Fast ferry from Kadıköy or Yenikapı (http://www.ido.com.tr/); Bus (frequent departures by all major companies)

Alaçatı has long been a popular destination for windsurfers, but in recent years the town’s abundant charms have also helped transform it into a major tourist destination. This is certainly one of the most tasteful towns in all of Turkey, with its narrow cobbled streets and whitewashed houses, their wooden shutters painted various shades of blue and green, and a wealth of upscale shops and restaurants.

Located on the Çeşme peninsula, less than an hour from Izmir airport, Alaçatı’s star has risen as a tourist destination over the past decade. The town was originally settled by Greek migrants from nearby islands in the 1800s, who were brought over to drain the swamps in order to curb the spread of malaria. These Greeks settlers called the town “Agrilia”, and established vineyards and grape-processing factories. Many Muslims from Thessaloniki also settled here following the population exchange in the 1920s. However, most of the old stone buildings were eventually abandoned, and the town became an under-developed backwater.

This all changed with the opening of the Taş Hotel in 2001, which took an old crumbling Greek home and turned it into an upmarket boutique hotel. This project was a great success, and since then many others have followed suit. Today you will find dozens of boutique hotels housed in both new and renovated buildings. Many of the newer and slightly larger hotels are located on the outskirts of town, just a short walk from the center. They often have swimming pools, exposed stone walls, and lovely courtyard gardens. Alaçatı hotels are famed for their delicious breakfast spreads, which include tomatoes, olives, local cheeses, honey and clotted cream, homemade jams, and a selection of fresh breads and pastries.

Unlike many other resort towns in Turkey, Alaçatı is not flooded with foreign tourists. The area is a bit pricier than other popular tourist destinations, as it is not aimed at low-end packaged tourists, but at those who are looking for quality and are willing to pay for it. The majority of visitors are well-heeled Turks, mostly from Istanbul and Izmir. They come here either for a weekend getaway or for the entire summer. Many new holiday homes have also been built to accommodate this demand. That said, some discerning foreign tourists have recently started to discover Alaçatı.

Although it gets very hot here during the summer months, the constant wind, for which the city is known, keeps things cool. Of course, one of the main draws remains the Alaçatı beach, which is located in a small bay about four kilometers from town, and is a great place for both windsurfing experts and novices. There is a sandbar that extends some 700 meters out from the shore, creating a shallow shoreline, so even if you’re not a confident swimmer, you can easily learn to windsurf here. A wide range of equipment is available for rent, with professional instructors on hand.

Nearby Çeşme is known for its beaches as well as its castle, and now has a sparkling new marina. For those who are not interested in windsurfing and just want to enjoy the water, Ilıca beach in Çeşme makes for an ideal day-trip. Unlike most beaches in Turkey, the color of the water here is light aqua, with fine white sand.

While the Alaçatı has no sights as such, keeping yourself entertained is no problem as there are many shops, cafés, bars, and restaurants. There are a range of stores selling designer clothing, olive oil soaps, an assortment of home décor items, and mastic, which comes from the nearby Greek island of Chios, and can be found flavoring local dishes.

Many of the best upmarket Turkish brands have opened shops here, including Yastık by Rıfat Özbek, with its assortment of colorful and unique pillows; Haremlique, which specializes in high-quality linens and textiles; BNG, which carries a range of designer clothes and accessories; and, most recently, Midnight Express, which specializes in clothing and jewelry by young Turkish designers.

There are also many independent shops, often run by owners who came here to escape big city life. Isla Bonita is one such shop, and sells a range of decorative and gift items, including high-quality peştemals (traditional Turkish towels), natural soaps, ceramics, and accessories, as well as jams and sauces from Agrilia restaurant (see below). Red Horse Red House sells chic home accessories, which make the perfect finishing touches for a weekend home. Ipekçe, which also has a branch in Bodrum, carries a range of unique decorative items and jewelry, often with a strongly ethnic look, as many of the items are custom-made for the store in India. As the name implies, Fash carries a range of stylish, high-fashion beachwear from the likes of Missoni and Diane Von Furstenberg.

There are also many antique stores, mostly located in the Haci Memiş area of town. This neighborhood is far less developed than the town’s main strip, and is an unexpected delight. Stray dogs pad about, cared for communally by the local shopkeepers. Wandering through the streets, you will find a number of stores selling a range of antiques, including furniture, vases, glassware, and decorative items. You could easily spend hours wandering around and searching for little treasures. Judging from the number of restaurants, shops, and hotels that have opened this year, this area won’t remain unknown for long. In fact, the neighborhood has become so popular that internationally acclaimed textile designer Lisa Corti even opened a shop here this summer.

In terms of restaurants, foodies will be spoiled for choice, as the standards in Alaçatı are very high. One of the oldest restaurants in town is Café Agrilia. Housed in an old tobacco factory, this local favorite serves well-executed Mediterranean dishes with a strong Italian influence in an elegant and romantic setting. Another local favorite is Kalamata, with its atmospheric courtyard garden. As well as fresh grilled fish, Kalamata offers a range of unusual mezes with Greek and Armenian influences, served with great attention to detail.

One of the newest additions to Alaçatı’s restaurant scene isDa Vittorio. After having established a strong following in Istanbul, Italian chef Vittorio opened a second restaurant this May in the La Capria Suite Hotel. Da Vittorio serves mouth-watering rustic Italian cuisine using the freshest regional ingredients. The menu includes freshly made pastas, local seafood, their legendary eggplant parmigiana, as well as an excellent wine list, making this a must-visit for food-lovers.

For an afternoon coffee and freshly baked dessert, drop by the always-packed Köşe Cafe – anything chocolate is highly recommended. In terms of nightlife, there are many popular bars and restaurants in Alaçatı, with Yaya the current favorite haunt of all the beautiful people. In Çeşme, meanwhile, you can find the very popular Babylon Aya Yorgi beach.

Alaçatı has such a relaxed vibe that you could easily while away many days or weeks here enjoying the fresh air, beautiful beaches, delicious cuisine, and the town’s simple and unpretentious style. Alaçatı has much of the best that Turkey has to offer, all wrapped up in one tasteful and charming little package.

An archipelago of nine islands on the Marmara Sea just 20km from Istanbul, the Princes’ Islands, known simply as Adalar in Turkish, have long been a popular vacation destination. However, the islands are also known for somewhat more sinister reasons. Dating back to Byzantine times, unruly princes, deposed monarchs, and others who had become vexing for the royal family were exiled to the islands, a tradition that was continued under the Ottoman Empire. This is how the islands got their name. Over time, the islands lost this unsavory reputation and in the 19^th century became a popular summer resort for the city’s large Greek, Jewish, and Armenian communities, many of whom continue to summer here today. It was during this period that many of the islands’ lavish villas and mansions were built.

The largest of the Princes’ Islands is Büyükada, which means “the big island” in Turkish. Büyükada has been home to a great many famous residences over the centuries. A number of Byzantine empresses were exiled to the island’s convent, including Irene, (mother of Constantine), Theophano, and Zoe. Following his deportation from the Soviet Union, Leon Trotsky spent years in exile on the island. One of the leaders of the Russian 1917 October Revolution, Trotsky was removed from power following his split with Lenin. From 1922 to 1933, Trotsky lived on Büyükada and wrote the History of the Russian Revolution here, which is somewhat amazing when you consider the 34,000 White Russians who were also living in exile in Istanbul at the same time.

Other famous residents include the Şakir family, whose many escapades are discussed in the novel A Turkish Tapestry by Shirin Devrim. A family rich with viziers, generals, poets, and playboys, the most famous of this wild bunch is Cevat Şakir, known as the ‘Fisherman of Halicarnassus’. A writer, traveller, and ethnographer, Cevat Şakir is famous for putting the resort town of Bodrum on the map. After being exiled to what was then just a fishing and sponge-diving village, Cevat fell under Bodrum’s spell and is credited with bringing the town to the attention of the Turkish intelligentsia, which eventually led to it becoming a major tourist destination.

Today, Büyükada remains a popular destination, both with day trippers and those who are lucky enough to summer here. A trip out to the islands involves a ferry or sea bus ride, which can be a joy in itself. As you sail through the azure waters, you can enjoy a cup of tea as you watch the city’s dramatic skyline fade into the distance. Docking at Büyükada, you will immediately notice the beautiful Iskele (pier), with its octagonal passenger hall ornately decorated with Kütahya tiles. Built in 1914, the pier was used as the island’s first movie hall in the early 1950s.

Past the pier, the town’s main waterfront is lined with cafés and fish restaurants, all vying for your attention. Just past this strip towards the island’s center, you will see the Splendid Palace Hotel. A three-story building with red shutters and topped with twin metallic domes, this building was originally a hospital for soldiers wounded in the Crimean War and retains a faded elegance of a bygone era.

Soon you will reach the clock tower in the center of the town square, which will lead you to fayton square, essentially the city’s main taxi station. One of the most peaceful things about Büyükada is the fact that there are no cars on the island. Instead of cars, the main form of transportation on the islands is with bicycles and the ubiquitous horse-drawn carriages, known as fayton in Turkish. From here you can arrange for a fayton tour of the island, which is very enjoyable, particularly with children. However, if you feel up for it, we recommend a walking tour, or even cycling (bicycles are available for rent).

Exploring by foot is an excellent way to take in the architectural richness and diversity of the island. There are a great many summer homes here, and while some are new and simply functional, there are also many beautiful old wooden houses with such elaborate decorations, they look like sumptuous wedding cakes. Some of these gingerbread-like houses are very well preserved, while others have sadly been neglected and are crumbling at the edges. Büyükada is also home to some 14 holy buildings, including several churches, mosques and one synagogue. The most famous of these is the Greek Orthodox Aya Yorgi (Saint George) Church and Monastery dating back to the sixth century. The trip up to Aya Yorgi is one of the most popular and enjoyable activities on the island, whether by food, bike or fayton.

Walking through the wooded path through the windy pine trees, the island’s otherworldly charm quickly engulfs you. You will even see many stray horses roaming through the woods, idly grazing on wild grass. Part way up the very steep climb, you can spot a large abandoned building up on the opposite summit. The island has two peaks, one of which is called Hristo, and on this sits a massive wooden structure, supposedly the largest in Europe and one of the biggest in the world. Originally designed to be a hotel and casino, the Sultan denied permission for this usage, and the building eventually came to be a Greek orphanage. As Istanbul’s Greek residents dwindled, it was decided that there was no longer any need for an orphanage. The building was closed down in 1964, and is now in a state of decay. Rumor has it that the building will soon undergo a major renovation and be transformed into a boutique hotel.

Further up the path towards the monastery, you will notice that there are many ribbons tied to the branches of trees and shrubs, representing wishes made by passersby, often women hoping for a child as the monastery is strongly associated with fertility. In fact, on April 23 and September 23, thousands of worshippers makes the trip barefoot up to Aya Yorgi, and while this is a primarily Christian tradition, many Turks and visitors of all faiths make this pilgrimage. Inside the church, there is a glass box where you can write and deposit your prayers to Saint George, as many people of all religions believe that Saint George performed miracles.

Once you’ve visited the church and made a wish with either a candle or in the prayer box, you can enjoy a break at the café next door. There is a small but very tasty menu that includes grilled meats and basic Turkish meze, as well as wine made by the monks themselves. This is the perfect place to reward yourself with a well-deserved rest after making the trek up the hill and also to take in the stunning views of the water and Sedef island below. In the distance, you can also see the urban sprawl of Istanbul, which comes as a bit of a jolt to the system, given how far you feel from the world of crowds of people and honking cars.

Walking back down, it is nice to take one of the routes taken by the faytons. The shorter route (küçük tur) passes the most elegant houses and monasteries, while the longer route (büyük tur) will take you to the far end of the island through a coastal road that winds through the forest and overlooks the many bays and beautiful coastline. Once you have made it back into the town you can take a wander through the various small shops. The best way to end the day is with a meal at one of the seafood restaurants that line the waterfront, as Büyükada is an excellent place to enjoy seafood. We recommend Ali Baba, where you can enjoy a range of classic Turkish mezes and perfectly grilled catch of the day,

As the sun starts to set and you make your way back to the ferries, it can feel hard to believe that so much history and beauty can fit onto one tiny island. While its heyday may be behind it, Büyükada still makes for a magical break away from the city.