How was Yesilist born?

Georgie Benardete and I were the ambassadors of Al Gore’s Climate Project in Istanbul. We were actively involved in projects in which we could inform the public about climate change, explaining how each and every one of us can be a part of the solution. During this time, we researched about Turkey’s organic map, trying to figure out the where and how of organic and natural products in the country. During the process, we thought that if we’re searching this, there must be other people who want to find out about organic producers as well. And that’s how the idea behind Yeşilist was born in 2010.

What does Yeşilist aim to achieve?

We basically wanted people to easily find what they are looking for to lead a nature-friendly life, from organic markets and producers to organic furniture, from energy-efficient electronics to organic skincare to yoga and detox centers. Our content, however, has become much more dynamic since the website was first founded, and thus we have taken on the role of a guide in addition to being just a directory per se. There was one thing that we kept on coming across in our interactions with the public. Many people were asking the same question: But how can I be green when I lead such an urban lifestyle? This is the overlapping concern that many Istanbulites have. And our motto is that you can be green by doing very simple things and taking small steps, from turning off your computer when leaving the house to opting to use a tote instead of plastic bags when shopping. At the moment, we’re trying to help establish the Turkish organic market. When we were setting up Yeşilist, we found out that there are many organic producers in Turkey but they export their products, so there’s very little left for the local consumer. And thus the prices are very high. We’re also trying to inform the consumer, showing them what’s green out there and the resources that they have available. Turkey offers all the resources necessary to lead a green life, people just need to know that they are out there. And that’s where we come in.

The website is in Turkish and English. There are very few content-based websites in Turkey that are bilingual. Why did you feel the need to also have an English section?

There are many expats living in Turkey, and there are millions of tourists coming each year. They know about being green, and when they come to Turkey, they want to be green but have difficulties finding the resources available to them. That’s why we wanted to have an English version of the website, and this section became active only a few months ago. We update the Turkish version daily, but update the English one once a week or once every fortnight. The entire directory is available in English, but the dynamic content is only available in Turkish, unless there is something very special that we want to translate.

What does it mean to be green?

It’s a holistic way of life. Most of the time, we feel separate from nature, but in fact we’re not. Whatever we do, however we act, comes back to us through water and air. So we can be green with our choices. We can choose to use public transportation instead of driving a car, we can recycle, use water efficiently, not overuse air conditioners or heaters, and learn to be okay with wearing a sweater in the house during winter in the process. We can pay attention to what we eat, and make sure that what we buy is local, seasonal, and organic – all of these decrease our carbon imprint. We need to be conscious consumers and try to avoid unbounded consumption because whatever we consume uses up valuable resources. The smallest steps can make the biggest impacts so all we need to do is be smart consumers and make the right choices. Being aware is the least we can do.

What do you do to be green in Istanbul?

I’m sure that there are people who are more green than I am. I use public transportation as often as I can, I recycle, I try to avoid wastefulness and do compotes, I try not to use plastic. I buy organic. I pay a lot of attention to the choices that I make. For example, I pay close attention to how we use water and electricity.

Does Istanbul provide all that is necessary to lead a green life?

We have everything we need in Istanbul. But there is the issue of information, awareness, and access. There are more opportunities now than before. For example, there are a lot of organic bazaars. There are a limited number of green areas but there are still enough. But we forget that they are out there, we’re so used to thinking that Istanbul doesn’t have any green spaces that we don’t even see what’s in front of our eyes. If we look carefully, we’ll see that there is a lot out there. For example, each municipality offers numerous services like picking up recycled materials, from paper to an old refrigerator, from your doorstep.

Do you think that contemporary art pays enough attention to ecological issues?

Contemporary art may not directly focus on issues around nature, climate change, and ecology but ecology and humans are intertwined, so whenever you create something for humans, you’re also creating something for the environment. For example, contemporary art often tackles issues surrounding women. Women’s empowerment is vital because women play a significant role in creating a green life for their families. Women are the ones who bring up children, so the more aware a mother is the more aware the child will be. Everything that increases the quality of life for humans is eventually a green activity.

Can you tell us a little bit about the Green Drinks Istanbul event?

We’ve been organizing Istanbul leg of Green Drinks since 2009. It’s a networking event that brings together people who have green jobs, who lead green lives, and those who want to be more aware of green activities. The event is held every month, either on the last Tuesday or Wednesday of the month. The crowd is made up all sorts of people. The concept might come off as very hippie but we have a wide range of people coming to these events, from students and young professionals to Greenpeace activists and expats. We get anything from 20 people to 100 people coming to any given event, and there are always at least 5-10 foreigners.

What is Yeşilist planning for the future?

We have a range of different plans, one of which is every exciting. We’re aiming to organize a green festival. We’ll have more details about it soon.

Ergem’s Istanbul:

Favorite restaurant: Kantin, Lokanta Maya, Kıyı

Favorite green area: Belgrade Forest, the Princes’ Islands

Favorite green activity: Taking a walk in the forest with my daughter

Favorite museum/gallery: Istanbul Archeological Museums, Istanbul Modern

Favorite neighborhood: Yeşilköy, Nişantaşı, Eminönü, Beyoğlu

Favorite green architectural piece: The aqueduct built by MimarSinan

What you love about Istanbul: Old historical buildings

What you don’t like about Istanbul: Traffic and the destruction of green areas

Raised in South Africa and of Greek descent, he has lived and traveled all over the world, and is a frequent visitor to Istanbul. Recently, Peter has become very well known for his talk “Rebrand Greece”, which outlines his ideas on how to change perceptions of the country and once again make it a respected world player. The video of this talk went viral on the internet, we hope to one day see a similar talk from Peter on how Istanbul could rebrand its own image.

Peter has a truly global perspective. His work is focused on change, the strategic responses to shifting cultures, and the challenges of regional and global expansion. What better person to ask about his views on Istanbul – a city that is constantly changing.

Have you spent much time in Istanbul?

Istanbul is one of my favorite cities. It is also a place where I have some great friends. Yes, I have spent much time in Istanbul.

When did you first visit, and have you been back often?

I first visited in 1984, shortly after I moved to Athens from Hong Kong. I visited again many times during the 1980s. In 1999, I moved back to Athens from New York. Since then, I have been a very frequent visitor.

What was your first impression of Istanbul?

I remember my first impressions vividly. We stayed at the Pera Palace Hotel. Things I remember are: the old floating bridge with the restaurants on the bottom level; of course, the Grand Bazaar; an old Russian restaurant in Beyoğlu (I do not know if it is still there); Körfez Restaurant; and the best Imam Bayıldı, which I had at Park Şamdan. I also remember the streets in Sultanahmet. The smell of coal fires burning and the crazy maze of electrical wires going across the streets. Oh, and also an antique dealer in Nişantaşı called Portakal. I bought some watches there .... I collect watches.

Has that impression changed significantly over subsequent visits?

Many of the things I remember from my first visit are no longer there. And I have discovered other sides of Istanbul since then. Of course, Istanbul has changed to become one of the most exciting and dynamic cities in the world. Much has changed. Most importantly, though, my friends have shown me aspects of Istanbul I would never have discovered without them.

What do you like most about the city?

The Bosphorus. And the layers of culture which are visible everywhere. And this incredible mixture of Europe and the Orient.

What do you least like?

The traffic.

What are your favorite neighborhoods or areas in Istanbul?

Bebek and Beyoğlu.

What is your favorite view in the city?

Anywhere on the Bosphorus. And, of course, the view across the Golden Horn towards Sultanahmet, especially during sunset.

What are your favorite Turkish foods?

I am Greek, so I love most Turkish food. But my favorite is Imam Bayıldı.

What are your favorite restaurants?

Zuma, Bebek Balıkçı, Hünkar, Papermoon, and Körfez (when it was open). And my memory of Park Şamdam, though I have never been back there since the first time in the 1980s.

Do you have any nightlife spots that you enjoy?

The nightclub Şamdan was always a favorite. I have spent many late nights there.

What is your favorite museum or historical site in Istanbul?

Aya Sofya(Hagia Sophia). And the Istanbul Modern Museum of Modern Art.

Do you have a favorite holiday destination in Turkey outside of Istanbul?

Bodrum and the coastal area around it. I love Knidos.

As someone who has lived in many different cities and countries, what do you find to be unique about Istanbul?

The mix. The contrasts. Europe and Asia, divided by the Bosphorus. The incredible villages leading up to the Black Sea. The layers of culture: Ancient, Byzantine, Ottoman, Modern. The mix between European and Oriental. Contrasts, contrasts, in harmony...

As a brand strategist, what do you think that Istanbul should do to improve its global appeal to both visitors and investors?

Istanbul is a conversation in a world that needs conversation. A conversation between the past, the present, and the future. Between Asia and Europe. Between Islam and secularism. Between the Aegean coast and Anatolia. Between tradition and modernity. Good conversation is lively, it consists of thesis and antithesis. But it always results in synthesis. This is Istanbul for me. And I think that is a valuable and special role in today’s world. This is how Istanbul can improve its image. By truly expressing what it is. Because what it is is truly special.

½ cup food quality fresh rose petals

¾ cup water

1 tsp lemon juice

2 cups milk

¼ cup rice flour

¾ cup sugar

1 tbsp poppy seeds

200 glabne cheese

2 tbsp dried rose petals

Preparation:

1. 4-5 hours before preparing the pudding, rub the rose petals with half of the sugar and refrigerate.

2. Place the rose petals in a pot, add water and cook, stirring occasionally, until the consistency of a sauce is reached. Add lemon juice and allow to cool.

3. In a separate pot, mix the milk and rice flour, ensuring that there are no lumps. Cook on medium heat until it comes to a boil, continuously stirring in the same direction.

4. Lower the heat and simmer until it thickens. Add the rest of the sugar, adjusting the amount to taste.

5. Cook for an additional 4-5 minutes. Then add poppy seeds and labne cheese and stir rigorously.

6. After a few minutes of stirring, add the dried petals, making sure they are evenly dispersed. Pour into a serving bowl, drizzle with the rose petal sauce, and serve.

Can you tell us a bit about yourself? What do you do? What do you like? What your interests?

I’m a fashion lover. I’m always searching for new information on anything related to it. I studied Fashion Design in Barcelona and I’m now doing my postgraduate studies in Fashion Communication in Milan. Traveling is one of my favorite things in the world. I also have a passion for writing, that’ s why I keep a blog called Fashion Lessons where I try to keep myself (and whoever is interested in reading my work) updated on different subjects related to fashion. One of the things that I enjoy the most is interviewing new talent. I usually speak with young designers on their vision of fashion and design.

When did you visit Istanbul? How long did you stay?

I had the opportunity to visit Istanbul twice. The first time I stayed for 15 days, enough to get a great sense of the city. During that trip, I also went to Cappadocia, which I thought was an amazing and unique place. The second time I was only there for 4 days, leaving with the feeling that it just wasn’t enough.

What were your first impressions of Istanbul?

This city is enchanting. There is so much to see, but most of all to feel, smell, and touch. It’s a city where every place you go astonishes you.

How did you spend your time? Where did you go?

I tried to experience all parts of the city. I went to the historical parts, like Sultanahmet, where I was amazed by the Topkapı Palace, the Blue Mosque, the Basilica Cistern, and the Hagia Sophia. I also went to the trendy places in Nişantaşı and Beyoğlu. And off course the Grand Bazaar, a paradise to buy the most extraordinary pashminas, Turkish delights, and leather goods. This is certainly a shopping experience everyone must have in Istanbul.

Where did you stay?

I stayed at my brother-in-law’s house both times. He is half Turkish, so I’ve had the opportunity to really know the city through a local’s eyes. His Turkish family reflects the kindness and hospitality of Turkish people.

Which aspects of Turkish culture did you like and dislike?

I have to say I have loved every aspect of Turkish culture. It’s very special and full of surprises. I enjoyed the food so much, especially the desserts - baklava is my addiction. I also really enjoyed the aesthetics. For me, as a designer, Istanbul is a city where any designer can find inspiration.

Was there anything about Turkish culture that seemed very similar or very different from your own?

The kindness and hospitality of Turkish people is similar to my culture, and this is what I loved.

What kinds of food did you eat?

Kebab in all its varieties, but my favorite was definitely the iskender kebab. I also tried köfte and the different mezes. I loved having Turkish breakfast with all the cheese, meats, and the delicious bread.

What do you think about the style of Istanbul’s residents? Did you think that certain areas were cooler/hipper than others?

Yes, as any city, Istanbul has places that are more aesthetic, and this reflects in the people as well. I find the people in Istanbul are really stylish. The women I have had the chance to meet are so elegant and effortlessly chic. I have to say that I got amazed by women that could reflect their sense of style regardless their religious beliefs.

Did you visit any shopping malls? If yes, which one did you like the most?

Yes, I went to IstinyePark and found that it’s really American in a good way. It has a variety of stores where you can find anything, from mainstream fashion, such as Zara and Mango, to local brands and luxury brands.

Which Turkish designers do you like?

I must say I absolutely love Erdem Moralıoğlu, whose father is Turkish, as well as his designs. He has a broad vision on femininity, and the clothes that he designs are always very floral and feature printed fabrics, which I think may come from his Turkish background.

What was the hardest part about traveling in Istanbul? How did you overcome this?

I think travelling here is as easy as traveling in any part of Europe.

Any favorite sights, places, neighborhoods?

Reina, Havuzlu, and Kemer Country. I had an incredible experience in Reina. This club is amazing during summer - the people, the music, and most of all the view of the Bosphorus. It’s so cool that some guests arrive with yachts. I really enjoy Istanbul’s nightlife, especially during summer. It’s very chic, and it has the right amount of everything: nice places, cool people, good music, and great drinks.

Any tips and recommendations for future Istanbul visitors?

I would say keep your eyes wide open! Anyone who wants to visit Istanbul must try everything they can because you wouldn’t want to miss a thing in this incredible city.

Take her shopping: Istanbul is the world capital of shopping, thanks to the historic Grand Bazaar that is sprawling with over 4000 shops. Walk around the bazaar to enjoy the humdrum, pick a pashmina together at Sivaslı Istanbul Yazmacısı, browse through the ikat products at Muhlis Günbattı, buy some all-natural bath products at Abdulla (and don’t forget to buy a bottle of pomegranate molasses while you’re there, they’re to die for!), look through the excellent antique collection at Sofa, and have a coffee break at Fes Café (you’ll be amazed at how elegantly they serve Turkish coffee). Last but not least, depending on how your choose to spend the day, enjoy traditional Turkish food at Nar Lokanta.

Spend an artsy day together: Pamper your mom with the works of a prominent artist, the delicious dishes of innovative Turkish chefs, and the piano concert of a Carnegie-Hall-approved pianist. Head to the Sakıp Sabancı Museum in the afternoon on Sunday, and start by touring Rembrandt and the Golden Age of Dutch Art. Then enjoy dinner at the contemporary Turkish-Mediterranean restaurant müzedechanga, overlooking the Bosphorus. Finally, listen to Simone Dinnerstein masterfully playing Bach.

Let her creative side flourish: Sometimes, the best thing we can do for people is to let them grow on their own. Our mothers have done a lot of that for us, and now it’s time to return the favor. There’s something that she loves doing, but she probably doesn’t spend enough time and energy on it? Whatever it is, find a workshop, class, or tour that will let her indulge her creative side. One suggestion we have is the three-day photography workshop by Britist photographer Peter Sanders. (For detailed information on the workshop, click here.)

Cook for her: This is probably one of the best ways you can treat your mom. It’ll probably catch her off guard, and will certainly make her feel appreciated. For creative meal ideas, take a look at our Recipes or get a copy of Istanbul Contemporary Cuisine, and cook up a feast for your mom.

Go away with her: When we say away, we mean on a relaxing trip to Bodrum. Now is the perfect time to enjoy the famous coastal town, before local and international tourists flock this popular vacation spot. While you’re there, make the best of your trip by taking some yoga classes from the well-known yoga teacher Saash Behnam Kheirolomor. He teaches everyday in a number of venues in Bodrum. Click here to see Saash’s program. (The Guide Bodrum is coming out at the end of June, so don’t forget to get your copy to see the best of Bodrum. In the meantime, click here to read about Bodrum.)

Get tickets for the Istanbul Theater Festival: If your mother enjoys the theater, what better way to spend time with her than to see a play together. Take advantage of the rich variety of productions that are being staged in Istanbul until June 5^th as part of the Istanbul Theater Festival, and make a day of it. Click here to take a look at our picks from the festival.

Pamper her with an appointment at the hairdresser: Every woman loves a new haircut, and Mother's Day is the perfect opportunity to make your mothers feel rejuvenated with a new haircut. We suggest you make an appointment at Erdem Kıramer or HH Hair Design.

Get a piece of jewelry for moms-to-be: It can never be too early for push presents, so get your soon-to-be-a-mother best friend, sister, cousin, or wife a piece of jewelry to make their day. For something contemporary, check out Ela Cindoruk and Nazan Pak’s collection. For an elegant piece, browse through the Bee Goddess collection. For something extraordinarily beautiful with healing qualities, get a ring from Tohum. If you’re ready to splurge, check out Gilan’s collection.

Participate in Mother’s Day Activities at Lola: Lola, the multicultural arts and languages center, is hosting Mother’s Day events on May 12th. Daddies can take their kids to Lola between 10am-12pm to create handmade cards and presents for mommy. Mothers who want to celebrate the special day by creating art with their kids can head there between 3-5pm for a lovely afternoon of art.

Destination weddings are about bringing together your family and closest friends in a beautiful location, and celebrating your union. They not only enhance the wedding day itself, but also enrich all the activities that surround it. With its crystal blue waters, rolling hills covered with olive trees and citrus groves, and white-washed buildings draped with bougainvillea, Bodrum makes an ideal backdrop to any wedding. Its many leisure options, including a thriving nightlife and wealth of boat trip and party opportunities, further add to its appeal. You name it: in Bodrum, you can indulge in it. You and your friends can spend the days sunning on beaches and shopping in local stores, and the evenings enjoying any number of themed parties as you build up to the big day. Add to this a number of boutique and five-star hotels and spas that offer top-notchservices, and Bodrum is truly a perfect location for a destination wedding.

Boutique Beauty

For those looking to share the intimate experience of a boutique wedding with their nearest and dearest, the Maçakızı hotel in Türkbükü provides an ideal setting. A favorite with both the international and Turkish jet-setting crowd, Maçakızı is known for the beauty of its grounds and its tasteful and unpretentious décor. With its stone and whitewashed bungalows and stunning gardens tumbling down the hills to the waterside decks, which are covered with cream-colored cushions, this hotel epitomizes classic Mediterranean beauty. Everything here is elegant and low-key, from the rooms to the grounds, with an ever-present view of the azure blue water of the Aegean.

Maçakızı is famous for its great music, and also for its delicious food, which consistently wins rave reviews from guests. The menus of renowned chef Aret Sahakyan feature a blend of Turkish and Mediterranean flavors and cooking techniques, using only the finest and freshest local ingredients. Meals are served in an open-air dining room, in the shade of a 100-year-old olive tree. The environment of abundant natural beauty serves as the ideal backdrop for a simple, elegant, and chic wedding. While it is possible to bring in an outside wedding planner, most couples choose to have the hotel handle all the wedding details.

A classic Maçakızı wedding features lots of white draped fabric, plenty of candlelight, and fuchsia bougainvillea to add a dash of color. The events start with cocktails, move onto an open buffet or sit-down dinner by Sahakyan, and end with a night of dancing beneath the stars. Maçakızı Bodrum;Kesire Mevkii Narçiçeği St. 48400 Göltürkbükü Bodrum; P: +90 252 377 6272

Five Star Luxury

For many people, their nuptials are the perfect excuse to indulge in a five-star luxury experience. For the ultimate in opulence, plan your wedding at the Kempinski hotel, whose name is synonymous with luxury. The hotel benefits from a very dramatic setting with sweeping views over Barbaros Bay. This stylish and serene scene makes for a highly tasteful and minimalist wedding. The Bodrum Kempinski offers special wedding packages that include all the details necessary for the perfect wedding. Depending on the size and type of your event, you can choose from one of many beautiful function areas, including the Gazebo Terrace, Barbarossa Beach, or a poolside area. Whichever you choose, Kempinski Bodrum’s wedding planners will help you with every single detail so that you can just relax and enjoy your wedding.

Apart from the breathtaking beauty of the bay and hotel, many couples choose to have their wedding at the Kempinski for the delicious food and famous spa. Executive chef Ali Ronay has an extensive repertoire, and he and his staff can accommodate a range of requests, whether you want traditional Turkish, classic French, or Asian Fusion dishes on your wedding day. At the Six Senses Spa (complete with traditional hamam), you and your partner, not to mention all your guests, can feel like royalty for a day. In fact, the spa is so popular that even if their wedding is being held in another venue, many bridal parties choose to come here to treat themselves to a spa and get pampered in preparation for the big day. To top it all off, the Kempinski staff will even plan your honeymoon in one of the many luxury hotels the company operates around the world.Kempinski Hotel Barbaros Bay Bodrum;Kızılagaç Köyü, Gerenkuyu Mevkii Yaliçiftlik, Bodrum; P: +90 252 3110303

Beachy

For some, the entire point of a wedding in Bodrum is to get married right on the beach, with sand between their toes. For those in search of a simple, casual, and seaside wedding, Xuma beach in Yalıkavak is the ideal location. Situated on a beautiful private bay at the edge of a nature preserve and surrounded by greenery and citrus trees, this is an ideal setting for a low-key wedding. The beach club can be closed for weddings during June and September. These months are also preferred for their slightly cooler evenings. While couples are welcome to bring in outside planners and caterers, Xuma has its own restaurant, which serves up tasty Mediterranean meals. If you want a simple beach wedding with the stunning natural beauty of Bodrum as your backdrop, Xuma beach is the ideal venue.XUMA Beach Club,Küdür Mevkii, Yalıkavak Bodrum; P : +90 252 385 47 75

Wedding Services

While most wedding venues provide their own services, some couples choose to bring in outside services. Below are some of our suggestions.

Sights

Flowers are an important part of any wedding, and Ceremony by Irem Yargici, located in Istanbul’s upscale Bebek neighborhood, sells stunning arrangements that can be shipped anywhere in the country. They also provide general wedding planning services and are known for the most elegantly organized and tasteful weddings. For a more locally based florist and event planner, Nature Cicek Evi Davet & Organization, based in Bodrum, can take care of all the details, from your appointment at the beauty salon to your Turkish honeymoon. (Nature Çiçek Evi & Organizasyon is located on Cafer Paşa Caddesi No. 85, Muğla, Bodrum. P: 0252 313 05 72.)

Sounds

Turkey’s best known DJ, Salih Saka, can provide you with the perfect musical background on your big day. His events company, S&S Music Maker, is known for providing the best DJ services in the country and even has a compilation CD: Ceremonies and Parties.

Tastes

Café di Dolce can make you the perfect wedding cake, as beautiful as it is delicious.

I am a consultant, and I work in wine education and coaching. I work with both sides of the industry – I offer professional consulting to restaurants for their menus and staff, and I also organize events for consumers, such as tastings, themed dinners that match wine and food, and corporate events. Currently, I am also working on organizing incoming and outgoing wine tours. We are looking to combine historical and gourmet tourism, starting off the tours in Istanbul, then moving on to Trakya, the Aegean coast, and then possibly to Cappadocia.

Tell me about your background in wine and how you got into the industry.

I studied at a French high school in Istanbul and then went to university in Nice, and it was during this time that my interest in wine began. I visited a lot of wineries, both in France and Italy. When I returned to Turkey, I started working with ADCO, first as an assistant brand manager, where I learned a lot. Importantly, I learned that I love wine, and started to take training courses, which I very much enjoyed. This is when I started to get to know the industry well, working with importers, producers, and shops. During this time, I also obtained my advanced certificate at the UK-based Wine & Spirit Education Trust. I was the first woman to compete at the Turkish Sommelier Competition in 2010, where I came in second place. I then went to Spain to represent Turkey at the International Young Sommelier Competition organized by the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs in 2010, and came in fourth place among twelve competitors. After working with several different companies in the sector, I decided to start my own business.

How has the Turkish wine industry changed in the time you have worked in it, and how is it changing now?

I have seen a lot of positive changes in the Turkish wine sector over the past five years. Today we see more imported wines in Turkey, and these have actually become a bit less expensive since the taxation system was changed to a flat rate, which means that more expensive bottles are now a bit more affordable. We can also see from the growth of small wineries that local production has changed. Also, the big local players have made quality improvements and started producing boutique ranges. The result is that today we can see more quality in the sector, and consumers are learning to demand more quality.

One of the clear negative changes I can see is the ban on internet sales of alcohol. It is too expensive for small producers to pay the shelf fees in large supermarkets, which means that they cannot easily get their wines to market. This is a particularly big problem in Turkey’s smaller cities, where there are still consumers who are interested in good quality wines. Wine sales through the internet are very important for smaller producers and also for consumers, in order for the industry to grow.

What are the challenges for the Turkish wine sector?

Currently, there are many import taxes in place as well as a lot of bureaucratic hurdles and many procedures for importing wines. On the restaurant side, many restaurant staff are not well-trained, which can be a problem for consumers and the growth of the sector. The fact that many big producers have sponsorship deals with restaurants, together with the ban on internet sales, leaves little space for boutique producers.

What are the most exciting changes you see taking place right now in the sector?

The technology in the sector is getting better and better. Today we are seeing a lot of foreign consulting in Turkey. It is important for local producers to learn their terroir and the local grape varieties, but also to use the knowledge of more experienced wine consultants. Today we are starting to get a good mix of the two. We don’t currently have Oenology Studies here in Turkey, but we are starting to see more people who studied Food Engineering in Turkey, went abroad for a master’s degree in oenology, and have now returned to Turkey. This has been very good for the growth of the sector. Now we have more companies and more producers, which means that there is growing competition and that things are moving along. Today, things are quickly improving all across the sector, while this is not the case in Europe.

Any particular wines and vineyards to look out for in coming years?

Barbare and Urla are both vineyards to watch. Also Chateau Kalpak in fiarköy, and Çamlıca in Kırklareli, which has been experimenting with new grapes – both of the wineries will be on the market in 2012. Also Tomurcuk Bağ which is working with wild yeast on Kalecik Karası grapes.

What are your favorite vineyards and wine-growing areas to visit?

I enjoy visiting wineries in Turkey for their natural beauty, particularly Urla, Manisa’s Salihli village (where you can find Pendora vineyards), the Şükrü Baran vineyards in Elazığ, and the village of Hoşköy, which is very cute and has great views. I’ve also heard a lot about Vinolus, the first vineyard in Kayseri, but I have not yet had a chance to visit.

Tell us a bit about your experiences in Istanbul, what do you love about the city?

Almost everything, except for the traffic. Istanbul is a physically beautiful city, and you have so many options for going out and eating good food with a Bosphorus view. I love how we have fun with our friends, going out, eating, and drinking. A part of town like Taksim is totally different than, say, Bebek, and I love that in Istanbul I can enjoy both these places.

What do you least love?

The traffic.

What are your favorite neighborhoods in Istanbul?

I grew up in Etiler and it is where I live today. It is my favorite part of the city, because you can easily go down to Bebek or hop on the metro and go to Taksim, and you can do these things without really getting into traffic.

Favorite Turkish foods?

Real ciğ köfte (spiced raw meatball), and also olive oil dishes and mezes, particularly the spicy ones.

What’s your favorite place to eat breakfast?

The places along the water in Rumeli Hisarı. They have good Turkish breakfasts and a nice view.

What are your favorite restaurants?

I’m a big fan of Ulus 29. I have seen over the years that they really care about the quality of the food and the wine, as well as the service, so every time you go it is an excellent experience. I also really like Mikla, La Brise, Sunset, and Giritli.

What food do you miss the most when away from Istanbul?

Turkish feta cheese.

What is your favorite view in the city?

The view from Mikla, because you see the Bosphorus as well as the old and the new cities.

What is your favorite weekend break from Istanbul?

Visiting vineyards in Tekirdağ and Lavanda Hotel in Şile – they have excellent food and wine.

The reason for this obliviousness, in a place known for its silence, is the 12,000 item collection, that demands full and thorough attention. From a black and white photo of Brigitte Bardot taken by Richard Avedon, to the curling dark blue waves of Katsushika Hokusai, a visual history of Barbie or Gucci, the turquoise and red motifs of Islamic Art, all the way to guerilla advertising and the pink-and-thick-black-marker-blur of pop art. A childish wonder and a bit of impatient enthusiasm takes over when faced with the endless pages that contain all the various beauties of human achievements just awaiting to divulge their identities.

The project, which began from scratch in 2007, has been designed to be a hub for those interested or more specifically, studying in the fields of Fashion, Architecture, Cinema, Art, or Photography. On such terms, the collection is truly invaluable, and the only one of its kind in Istanbul, with a sturdy support in the form of a brand known for its luxury and personalized service. Special editions, autographed copies, and limited copies, among others, offer the kind of information and visuals the internet age can never fathom.

Visiting the books is by appointment only because of a focus on the value of one-on-one interaction with the librarians and books are not allowed to be taken out. The supervisor, Begüm Başoğlu, reminds one of Katharine Hepburn in 1957’s Desk Set, before the ominous rumble of the computer arrived, with a distaste for the impersonal traits of the technological world and awaiting to help the curious who share her love for the hand written and palpably published.

All in all, the Vitali Hakko Creative Industries Library is a place for original research or simply to dwell for hours, satiating a need for the black and white glamour and equal mystery of the past where things seemed to possess a meaning that has since abated. Whatever your intentions, the books will not let you go, and if you are lucky the voice of Ella Fitzgerald, escaping laptop speakers to fill the room, will accompany your journey. Kuşbakışı Cad. No.35, Nakkaştepe; Appointments can be made weekdays between 10am-5:30pm by phone or email P: (0216) 554 08 54; kutuphane@vakko.com.tr; For more information visit the library’s Facebook page.

Tell us about Yıldız Lux. What sets it apart?

Yıldız Lux is a family-owned company that was founded in 1985 by my father. Now, my sister Ece Fıratlı and I own and manage it together. We are a very customer-based firm, and that’s why almost all of our carpets are one-of-a-kind. We use 100\% New Zealand wool of the highest quality and 100\% natural silk thread.

And for those who don’t necessarily know much about carpets, what difference does it make to use wool and natural materials?

Consumers are much more educated now than they were in the past. They not only look at the aesthetics but also at the quality and standards of the carpet. Their preferences are towards natural materials, and we use all natural materials, we never use synthetic.Other than wool, we use silk and viscose. Using these materials ensures that the carpets are stain resistant and they don’t give you electric shock. The carpets are also anti-bacterial, anti-allergic, and durable.

What kinds of motifs and designs do you use?

It really depends on what the customer wants since all the carpets are custom-made. Many of our carpets do feature revised and modernized versions of Turkish and Ottoman motifs.

Can you tell us more about how custom-made carpets work?

It’s a very personal process, which, at the end, makes the customer very happy, knowing that they have a piece in their home that they took an active part in designing. After all, it’s their tastes, needs, and preferences that the design team bases the designs on. What’s great about custom-made carpets is that they allow customers freedom to choose color, pile height, embroidery, and the material used.

And you also make custom-made carpets for kids’ rooms, right?

Yes, we do. We can create carpets in any shape we want, such as in the shape of a dog, bird, or fairy. Also, all carpets used in kids' rooms are health certified by doctors.

What kind of techniques do you use?

We use the hand-tufted technique, which my dad brought to Turkey for the first time. We can refer to this technique as the modern hand-weaving technique of European carpets that utilize machines in the weaving process. The technique allows quality control on a millimeter basis, and that’s why it’s a great technique.

What kind of customers do you have? Foreign? Local? Households? Corporations?

We have a wide variety of customers, mainly locals who want carpets for their homes, but also foreigners, statesmen, government offices, and yacht owners.

You make carpets for yachts?

Yes, we certainly do. In fact, we have a solid yacht-owner customer base because we are among the few carpet stores in Istanbul that make carpets based on the rules and regulations that yacht owners need to follow. For example, the carpets in yachts have to be 100\\\\% wool and nonflammable. In addition to providing such carpets, we create designs based on the customers’ needs, so this makes us very attractive to yacht owners.

And what does the process of making custom-made carpets include?

It’s a very personal process actually. For example, if we were to make a carpet for a house, we often meet with the lady of the house and see what the house has on offer. How much space is there? What kinds of furniture have been used or will be used? Is it a modern or a traditional house? What kinds of curtains are there or will there be? Our aim is to create something unique for each house, something that the customer wants, something that feels personal to them. So we create three design options, and the customer picks the one that feels right.

And all these designs are unique?

Yes. The design team's principle is to create unique designs in each project. Some customers make a specific request that they don’t want their design to be used for any other house, and we respect that. Others don’t have such requests, and in those cases it is possible to base a carpet on a previous design, but it always turns out to be something unique because we still change certain things, like the size or color.

Eda’s Istanbul

A previous ice skating champion, piano and guitar player, a definite shopaholic, Eda is one sweet lady that lives Istanbul to the fullest. She dances, she sings, she goes to concerts, and she certainly does a lot of shopping. Here is what her Istanbul is like:

What you love most about Istanbul: The chaos. It's good for creativity.

Favorite spot for business dinners: Ulus 29

Favorite venue for dancing:Lucca

Favorite live music venues:Babylon, Nardis, Jolly Joker

Favorite Turkish bands/musicians:Bülent Ortaçgil and Pinhani

Favorite spots for relaxing:Sanda Spa for a well-deserved massage and Uzunya in Kilyos

Favorite activity with your daughter: Eating ice-cream at Mini Dondurma and rollerblading in Bebek

Favorite shopping areas:IstinyeParkandMidnight Express

Favorite restaurants:Le Fumoir, Ulus 29, Vogue (for sushi), Big Chefs

Alef is one example of this rare breed. It is the culmination of one woman’s passion, dedication, and hard work. Alef is a jewelry store, gallery, and atelier where its owner the master goldsmith Yeşim Yüksek creates the worldly manifestations of her soul. These manifestations, which come in the form of earrings, rings, necklaces, and bracelets, are made using classical goldsmith techniques blended with a modern interpretation and sprinkled with impeccable taste.

We had a chat with the woman behind the sophisticated pieces at Alef, and learned about her techniques, her art, and her Istanbul.

How did you get into the business?

I studied law in university, but while I was studying I realized I was really drawn to jewelry making. I began by creating the accessories collections for Beymen, Vakko, Mepa, Polo Garage, and Park Bravo. I opened my first atelier in Osmanbey in the 1980s, but then moved to İzmir. This is where I had a real introduction to the art, philosophy, and practice of jewelry making. There, I had an apprenticeship next to a master goldsmith for six years. Before then, I knew about design but not as much about production. Throughout my apprenticeship, I learned a variety of invaluable techniques, from melting gold and silver to setting a stone.

What did you do when you first came back to Istanbul?

I came back in the late 1990s and I began teaching. But it was not long before I decided to open my own place.

You opened Alef in 2005. How did the store and its pieces change since then?

Of course, there was a much smaller collection when I first opened Alef. And at its inception, it was just an atelier and gallery. But within the first year, I started selling my pieces.

What kinds of pieces have you done for Alef so far?

Sometimes I do one-of-a-kind pieces, which are highly sought after by collectors. There are also signature pieces, pieces that have become a signpost for Alef. There have also been limited edition collections. You can think of Alef as a constantly growing collection of jewelry.

Why did you name the store Alef?

It comes from Jorge Luis Borges’s story The Aleph.

Which stones do you most often use? What are some unique characteristics of your pieces?

I often use smoky quartz, onyx, aquamarine, and blue topaz. I create all the patterns found in my designs. I like to add surprising elements to my pieces. For example, I often use a subtle pendulum effect. When used with the quartz, it often gives a feeling of a magnifying glass. I do a lot of bezel setting. I also do lots of asymmetrical pieces. I never use glue; the stones are always set in metals. I like using gold and silver together. I often use oxidized silver, which has a brownish color. It brings out the yellow in the gold.I am personally involved in every part of the process of each piece – from the idea that inspires it, to the polishing of the stone, from creating the design to cutting and fixing the stone, from production to sales.

Do you have a favorite piece?

I don’t really. Each piece is like a baby to me. I make each piece with my own hands. Sometimes when I make a new piece, I think that I like it more than others, but it’s just the excitement of having created something new. Sometimes, I’m drawn to much older pieces. But there is one piece – the King Arthur ring – that I wear every day. It has become kind of my signature. People recognize me with it.

Two of your rings, Deco Bride and Gothic Bride, have been included in 21st Century Jewelry: TheBest of the 500 Series, published by Lark Books. Can you tell us more about the rings?

Deco Bride is based on an old drawing. I started playing with it and it turned into what it is today. I always play with stones, designs, drawings, and they don’t always mean anything while I play with them, but they all come together after a point. That’s kind of how Deco Bride came together. Gothic Bride kind of grew out of Deco Bride. I wanted to make Deco Bride a little more masculine, and then Gothic Bride was born - here the stone is upside down, and it carries more gothic elements.

Do you ever buy jewelry?

I design and make jewelry to wear the kind of jewelry that I want. So, no, I don’t really buy jewelry. I used to in the past, but I don’t anymore.

Where do you get your inspiration from?

Illustrations and tales from childhood. Anything related to the Middle Ages, the Gothic, architecture, handicraft, metal workmanship.

What does creativity mean for you?

Creativity is about accumulation. First you have to accumulate, and do something fresh and new with whatever is left on the sifter.

And how do you define talent?

When we are born, we choose what we’re interested in, and that’s the thing we do the most. That’s why people say that we’re talented in that area. But that’s because that area is interesting to us and we keep doing it. So talent is more like practicing what you love.

What would you recommend to aspiring jewelry makers?

The professors of jewelry are master goldsmiths. So I highly recommend that they persist enough to persuade a master goldsmith to take them as an apprentice.

Do you take apprentices?

Yes, I do. But I take on a few pupils. Only the ones who are absolutely determined on becoming master goldsmiths.

Yeşim’s Istanbul:

Favorite neighborhoods:Old neighborhoods by the Bosphorus. Galata, Beyoğlu, the Grand Bazaar. The sahaf çarşısı (second-hand book sellers bazaar) in Beyazıt and Beyoğlu. Neighborhoods with bazaars, Kadıköy for example.

Favorite Turkish food: The food that you find in tradesmen’s restaurants, like eggplant kebab and rice.

Favorite restaurants:Tradesmen’s restaurants, specifically those in and around the Grand Bazaar, for example, Tarihi Subaşı Lokantası and Havuzlu.

Favorite place for breakfast: Saray Muhallebicisi. I love sahanda yumurta (Turkish-style eggs, sunny side up, fried with butter).

Favorite meyhane:The classsics, like Yakup and Refik.

Favorite Turkish artists: The late sculptor Kuzgun Acar for his steel work, the late Abidin Dino, especially his stage designs.

Favorite Turkish designers:Hüseyin Çağlayan.

Favorite Turkish directors:Fatih Akın and Ferzan Özpetek.

Favorite getaway from Istanbul:I get away without getting away – I miss the sea so I go to Ortaköy and Bebek.

What you love most about Istanbul:I love how it’s filled with surprises.

What you least love about Istanbul:It changes all the time.

Ingredients

8 pieces of boneless, skinless chicken breast or thigh (cut into pieces of 4-5cm in size)

3 medium sized onions

3 garlic cloves

2 spicy green peppers (depending on spice level preference)

Ginger (sized at about 4cm) grated

½ tsp of saffron (depending on preference)

1/3 cup of corn oil or sunflower seed oil

50gr. butter

2 and ½ cups of chicken broth

2/3 cups of yoghurt

2/3 cups of cream

2 lemons

2 tsp of cumin

2 tbsp of dried ground cilantro

2 tsp of ground turmeric

1 tsp of jalapeno

2 tsp of salt

1 tsp of pepper

Fresh cilantro, to garnish

Preparation

1. Chop one onion, one clove of garlic, and one green pepper and put them in a blender.

2. Add the juice of one lemon and bring the mixture to a paste like quality in the blender.

3. Add the saffron to a pot of boiling water and let it sit.

4. Heat the corn oil and sunflower seed oil in a pan. Then add the chicken to fry.

5. With the help of a strainer, remove the chicken pieces from the pan and leave them on a plate.

6. Cut the remaining two onions into large slices and saute them in the remaining oil until soft.

7. Add them cumin, dried ground cilantro, ground turmeric, and jalapeno and saute for another 2-3 minutes. Add the chicken to this mixture.

8. Add hot chicken broth to the mixture and let it boil for 2-3 minutes.

9. Add the paste you prepared in the blender to this mixture.

10. Cook for about 10 minutes on low heat, occasionally stirring the mixture with a wooden spoon.

11. Add the saffron along with the water it was boiled in.

12. Cook for another 20 minutes, until the chicken becomes tender.

13. Add salt, pepper, and yoghurt (the sauce should have taken on a dark hue by now, if not, increase the heat and let the water evaporate).

14. When the chicken is cooked decrease the heat and add the cream.

15. Add the juice of the remaining lemon and turn off the heat.

16. Garnish with fresh cilantro and serve.

Make sure to also get your copy of The Guide Istanbul magazinealong with your coffee!

The bus will be visiting the following places:

1. New York City, NY

May 4th - Today Show

May 4th - New York University, Washington Square South and Laguardia Place

May 5th -'Turkish Coffee Culture Event at the Empire Room (7 - 9 PM) – To register, visit: http://www.eventbrite.com/event/3436603975

May 19th - Turkish Parade Day

2. New Haven, CT

May 9th- Yale University

3. Boston, MA

May 11^th - Harvard Square - JFK Street (10 am - 6 pm)

May 11^th - Harvard University Event (6:30 - 8:30 pm)

First of all, congratulations on the award, which certainly serves as recognition of the hard work that you and your team have put in strengthening the bonds between Colombia and Turkey and integrating the Colombian community to the Turkish way of life. For how long have you held the position of Colombian Honorary Consul in Istanbul?

I’ve been the HonoraryConsul since 2008. My job consists of helping Colombian residents in Turkey, and representing and promoting the image of Colombia in Turkey.

And how long you have been living in Istanbul?

I came to Istanbul 33 years ago because I married a Turkish man.

So you’ve witnessed the major changes that Istanbul has seen?

Certainly. Istanbul has completely transformed in the past thirty years. Of course, when I first came here it was still a big city, but today it is so modern and cosmopolitan that it doesn’t resemble the city it was before. For example, I was pregnant when I got here in 1979. There were no supermarkets back then, so I asked somebody to help me at the local store to find some diapers. The stands of the stores were absolutely empty and I couldn’t find a disposable diaper! That is one example of what life was like back then. Now, the economic development is palpable in every street and every neighborhood of Istanbul. There weren’t even credit cards back then. Today, everybody has a credit card, or two, or three. But putting aside conveniences, people have always been the same here: incredibly nice and friendly.

How would you describe the current relations between Colombia and Turkey?

The relationship between the two countries is relatively new but they are excellent. Even though, some years ago Colombia and Turkey seemed worlds apart, in the last ten years, with the economic growth of both countries, commercial relations have strengthened. This has led to a series of conversations between senior trade negotiators who are currently working on a free trade agreement between the two countries. To be specific, Turkish exports to Colombia increased 133\\\\\\% in 2011 and imports from Colombia increased 175\\\\\\%. Flocks of businessmen are now flying from Colombia to work with new Turkish partners. Last month, Kadir Topbaş, the Mayor of Istanbul, went to Cartagena, Colombia where he held major tourism and business talks with representatives from the city, announcing the possibility of opening direct flights between the two countries.

That sounds exciting. There have been several cultural exchanges between Colombia and Turkey, like the Fernando Botero exhibition that was showcased in Pera Museum in 2010 with the support of the Honorary Consulate of Colombia (as well as The Spanish Embassy and Instituto Cervantes). Are there any plans to intensify the bilateral exchange?

There are currently various projects running. One of them is to get as many Colombian students come and learn about Turkey and Turkish culture through exchange programs in Turkey’s top-ranking universities. The rector of EAFIT University (one of the most important universities in Colombia) will come next month to visit some universities in Istanbul, such as Aydın University and Galatasaray University, to sign exchange agreements. In October, rectors from other Colombian universities will also come for the same reason. Also, the possibility of a Free Trade Agreement between the two countries has also created enormous business opportunities by opening both markets to a host of business people. This has resulted in an influx of Colombian businesspeople coming to Turkey.

We’ve heard that you are publishing an online magazine called Colombianotas for the Colombian residents in Turkey. How did this idea come about?

(Laughter) In reality, Colombianotasis a newsletter that works rather as an informational bulletin, which I dream of turning into a magazine one day. We wanted to integrate the Colombian community in Turkey and that’s how the project started. It has been well received and has enjoyed a positive reception by the community. (To check out Olga’s newsletter, click here.)

How many Colombians live in Turkey and in Istanbul?

There is not an exact count but the community is certainly growing in Turkey. Many people come for professional commitments. There are also some Colombo-Turkish couples as well as some students.

If you have a guest coming to Istanbul, which tourist spots do you recommend them to go?

Well, it is very hard to answer this question with all the wonderful places there are to visit in Istanbul. The museums, Topkapı Palace, Dolmabahçe Palace, the Grand Bazaar…all these places are incredible. Most people have no idea what the Grand Bazaar looks like and are overwhelmed when they see its beauty. All of Istanbul is truly magical.

Which local dishes do you recommend to your guests?

Kebab in all its varieties.

What about a restaurant or bar?

I highly recommend Mikla, Sunset, and Ulus 29 for their location, atmosphere, and food.

A good place to go shopping?

The Grand Bazaar, IstinyePark, Kanyon, and Nişantaşı, although good places for shopping can be found all around the city. I love IstinyePark because it is the one place where you can find everything from local and international food and ingredients to all the big local and international brands.

A good weekend getaway?

In the summer, I recommend spending a day at the beaches in Kilyos.

Anything you don’t like about the city?

As with every big city, the traffic here is horrible. But you learn your ways around it. As you get used to it, you know when not to take your car and rather take public transportation. For example, you know that it is impossible to go to the Grand Bazaar on Fridays as it is the day with the worst traffic.

As such, the upcoming Masters of Wine Weekend (April 7-9), to be held in the Marmara Hotel in Taksim under the coordination of Veritas, will then surely be marked as an accentuated beginning for wine enthusiasts. Seven notable wine experts will be in attendance to not only give the Turkish grape varieties their due, but also to teach the interested the intricacies and varieties of wine tasting. Participating Masters of Wine, a title given only to a selected few worldwide professionals, will be Christy Canterbury, Tim Hanni, and Sheri Morano from the US; Sarah Abbott, Tim Atkin, and Peter McCombie from England; and Ned Goodwin from Japan.

The weekend will include the official tasting and evaluation of selected Turkish wines on the mornings of both days, where participants are invited to watch, followed by lunch with the guest wine tasters. The rest of the weekend will be full of workshops ranging from the tasting and understanding of Châteauneuf-du-Pape varieties to the general techniques of tasting and enjoying wine.

Located within the historic Doğan Apartmanı on Serdar-ı Ekrem Caddesi, Giyçek is a modern photography studio that takes nostalgic photos. Giyçek literally means get dressed and take a photo, and that’s what this old time photo studio is all about – a place where you get to dress up in old Ottoman clothing and get your photo taken. You’ll find a wide variety of Ottoman costumes, which were all designed specifically for the studio. You can choose to be a Paşa (a highly-ranked Ottoman official), a külhanbeyi (the Ottoman version of a gang leader), or a wide variety of other Ottoman characters from both old and more modern periods of the Empire. There’ll also be a wide range of accessories to add to the photo to give that extra touch of authenticity, such as musical instruments, hats, jewelry, and more.

How do you make money? How did you find your job? How much would you say is absolutely necessary to survive in the city?

Valerie Harrison: In the two and a half years that I’ve been in Istanbul, I have worked and made money through various positions. I found my first job as an English teacher, which is fairly easy to do for any native English speaker and was later fortunate enough to move onto positions in my desired field through a friend’s network. The sufficiency of a monthly salary depends on what sort of “survival” one is looking for, but I think realistically the bare minimum would be 1,500 TL a month, while also considering that it’s always best to have flexibility in your expenses because there is much to see and do.

Gillian Morris: Like my apartment, I found my work through contacts I made once I was already living in Istanbul. I'm a freelance writer, mostly creating reports about the energy sector in the Middle East. It doesn't take much to live in this city - I know people who live quite happily on $600 a month. It depends to a large degree on where you live and if you drink - alcohol is so expensive here!

Robert Morris: The default option for Anglophone ex-pats is English language teaching. Awide variety of companies serve many different markets. Some teach classes of children and adults the basics, while some find themselves well paid for private lessons polishing the English of already fluent executives. If you want a job in this field it is almost certainly available, withyour options depending on your background. I have met English teachers here who have not attained any schooling beyond high school. Basic English language knowledge is your ticket, and no experience is necessary.If you want to do something other than teach it is a bit more difficult. The answer is the same as anywhere else: “Network, Network, Network.” Some part-time English teaching might be a good way to broaden your network, but asurprising amount of people I know found their jobs in bars. I have an American legal degree, and have had some luck sending out resumes and cover letters, but if you do not have a graduate degree or some specialized experience, you should probably get an English teaching job to pay the bills, and then just keep your eyes open.

Aylin Erman: I came to Istanbul with only a few ideas of what I could possibly do. I made sure to connect with some people from my college’s alumni network and got the lowdown on what the market was like for English-speaking residents. Luckily, within the first week I arrived, I had several opportunities on the table. I find that English teaching is a great buffer while you get yourself situated and, if you enjoy the lifestyle, a great way to live in the city. If you want more structure, there are also opportunities that pop up here and there, but you have to keep engaging and reaching out.

What was the hardest part about moving to Istanbul?

VH: For me, the city first came across as vast and a bit overwhelming. However, with time, and once I settled down into my own neighborhood and became acclimated with my surroundings, that daunting feeling disappeared. The Turkish culture is very hospitable and even getting to know your neighbors is easy and helps to make you feel more at home.

GM: I didn't find it hard at all because I didn't have any idea how long I'd stay and didn’t feel like I'd made a huge shift. I gave myself three months to figure out a way to support myself, not sure I was going to make it - two and a half months in, I still hadn't found a good fit work-wise - I ended up getting lucky right attheend of my 'trial period'.

RM: The lack of ethnic food. Istanbul is a foodie’s paradise for about two months. The Mediterranean fare is lovely and the freshness and taste of the produce is extraordinary. I was a tomato lover back in the states, but on my last trip back I no longer ate the tasteless American varieties. If you cook for yourself, Istanbul offers affordable abundance, and many great markets. Unfortunately I’m a big consumer of delivery services, and appreciate a range of ethnic food, and Turkey doesn’t have that yet. You can find one or two decent examples of most types of food. Unfortunately they tend to onlybe decent and very expensive. Istanbul is a city of15-20 million people, and I can count the number of decent Sushi places on one hand. This situation is improving every day,butif you are used to the range of food options provided in any mid-sized American or European city, you will be disappointed. This is the only drawback I can think of.

AE: The bureaucratic system in Turkey is pretty annoying. In order to put a lease on my current apartment, I found myself in a 2-3 month stint of moving from one office to the next in order to obtain all the relevant permits and set up accounts for electricity, gas and water. At first it seemed like I never had the right form or was at the wrong office. Once this process was complete, however, life was good – save for the traffic!

Was it difficult to make friends with locals? How would you suggest doing so?

VH: I wouldn’t say it is necessarily difficult to make friends with locals but everyone’s situation will be different. Everyone comes to Istanbul for different reasons so will be faced with different social settings as a result. With that being said, searching for a room in shared flats with students or young professionals is a good way for meeting both international and Turkish friends. Most Turks who have a good grasp of English have many international friends, so finding a group of friends from many different nationalities is quite easy.

GM: It's not difficult at all to meet locals - they're all around! On the whole, Turks are very friendly and accessible: they'll invite you to dinner at their mother's house within minutes of meeting you. If you don't meet Turkish people through work or general socializing at bars, two professional networking organizations have frequent gatherings where you'll come into contact with lots of English-speaking Turks. Internations.com, technically an expat networking group, is in reality mostly Turkish, and meets up at least once a month. AlumniTurk, which is for anyone living here that has graduated from an American or European University, meets slightly less frequently.

RM:It is sometimes difficult to make friends with locals.  Some Turkish people will seek you out and are eager to make connections, while others are more reticent.  The best way to meet Turkish people is at work, because you instantly have something in common that crosses cultural lines, even if it’s just the same boss to complain about.  The people I met at my internship a year ago have been an incredible resource.

James Fish:I don't think it was easier or harder to make friends with people here than anywhere else, it's just a matter of being friendly yourself. Turkish people, especially people my age, are as friendly, if not friendlier, than many other places I've been and are willing to engage with you if you are with them. If you want to make friends with locals, I suggest just being open to new things, being willing to spend a little disposable income to go out in groups and meet new people, actively trying to learn and speak even a little Turkish, and not solely hanging out in the expat community; as easy or as comfortable as that may be.

AE:I was lucky to have a few Turkish friends who lived in the city, which has been absolutely ideal in terms of navigating a lot of the issues surrounding getting settled. I find that Turkish people are extremely friendly, but to tap into an already established friend group is a bit difficult and takes a bit more time. I find it easier to make everyday, light friends by just doing the daily grind, because people are so open and talkative here. However, finding a close-knit group is tough, as it is to newcomers anywhere else in the world.

How is your level of Turkish? Can you suggest places and/or ways that people can improve their Turkish skills? How do your language skills influence your life in Istanbul? What level of Turkish is necessary to function in the city?

VH: My Turkish is conversational; definitely not perfect but enough for me to understand and communicate most things. My suggestion for anyone who wants to improve their language skills is to completely immerse themselves in it. From music to books to films to a taxi driver chat, try to surround yourself with the language as much as possible throughout daily activities. Turkish is a really difficult language and takes a lot of patience so it is best to find ways that will fit into your day-to-day life. For beginners, the first few levels of a language course would of course be very useful as well. Having a good grasp of the language opens up a lot of different opportunities in the city. It allows you to expand your relationship with the culture in many different capacities. It is possible to function on very little but when it comes to issues such as landlords, maintenance, etc. it is essential to be able to communicate.

GM: Like everyone else, I wish my Turkish were better, but it's easy enough to get by with only a basic level. I learned a bit of Turkish throughthe Pimsleur language tapes, Rosetta Stone, andtheFono series of books.TheFono, which are basic stories in ascending level of difficulty, have been really instructive. I took some classes at Kedicat language school, which I thought were excellent, but I like working at my own pace more thantheclassroom setting.

RM:Turkey is a metropolis that has gone through a population explosion. Much of the population is either one generation removed or has come directly from the fields of Anatolia. The English language base is much lower than that in any European capital and many Middle Eastern cities. This can be challenging, but as long as you keep a positive attitude it can be very amusing.

The Turkish taxi drivers have been my greatest teachers. If you learn the phrase “Turkce ogrenmeyi calisiyorum” (“I am working on learning Turkish”), most will be amused and struggle through a conversation with you. An added benefit of this approach is the fact that I am the only expat I know without a cab driver horror story. If you establish that you are interested and local enough to at least attempt to learn they are much less likely to rip you off. I have heard good things about the Dilmer language learning school, but haven’t given them a try yet.

AE:I luckily had grown up speaking Turkish, since my father is from Turkey. However I still have an American accent and am by no means a “local” in terms of understanding the range of nuances the language offers. I find that knowing Turkish definitely helps to handle certain situations, but I notice that many people get on well without knowing a lick of it. It really depends on how you create your bubble within the city and who you choose to surround yourself with and the places you venture to. I would suggest taking lessons at One World Language School, which is self-tailored and really affordable.

What has surprised you the most about Istanbul? Politically, religiously, economically and culturally?

VH: I was quite familiar with Turkey’s political and economic situation before coming to live here, so it wasn’t much of a surprise. However, I was pleasantly surprised to find that Istanbul has much to offer in regards to its contemporary art scene, live international music scene, seasonal film festivals, exciting nightlife, etc, since I was merely expecting to see historical landmarks (of which, of course, there are many). It is truly impossible to get bored in Istanbul and each week brings new cultural offerings and events.

GM: What's surprised me most about Turkey is how homogeneous it is. Everyone talks about Turkey being a crossroads of civilizations, where East meets West, and I expected Istanbul to be much more diverse than it is. True, there are quite a few Kurds, Greeks, and Armenians, and a smattering of European expat, but there's almost no one from Africa, the Middle East, Asia, or Latin America.

RM:The bookstores have been very surprising, and the range of books available has been shocking. Walking through big Barnes & Noble-type chain book stores like D&R is humbling. They are filled with serious works of philosophy and history that would be out of place in a similar American store. It's not that I have seen anyone reading them but at least all of these great books are offered.

JF:How enjoyable life is here! I had heard it was great, but it's completely different to have arrived and started living in an area that's beautiful, vibrant, engaging, and full of potential in so many ways. I think the big surprise comes when you visit other parts of Turkey even only an hour or so outside Istanbul and realize that Turkey isn't just Istanbul, and Istanbul isn't Turkey - it's like visiting New York and thinking it's representative of all of America, never having seen the mid-west or southwest or deep south.

AE:I was surprised by how different Istanbul felt from the rest of Turkey. I am used to visiting the Black Sea region and life is a bit simpler and more traditional there, so moving to Istanbul wasn’t as big of a leap from NYC as I had thought it would be. Istanbul is super cosmopolitan and up-to-speed with the pop culture.

So…you’re an interior designer.

Yes. I graduated from the Interior & Spatial Design program of Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design in London, and came back to Istanbul to start working right away. I worked at Habif Mimarlık for five years, and recently quit to start my own business JK Mimarlık.

Tell us about JK Mimarlık a bit.

After working at Habif Mimarlık for 5 years (and I have to stay this experience was much like a continuing studies), it was quite an emotional journey to decide to quit and open my own space. I am grateful for my experience at Habif Mimarlık and proud to feel their support. At the same time, I’m very excited about my own company in which I take on new projects and challenges every day, from designing a small store in Osmanbey or a two-bedroom apartment in Ulus to a massive mansion or beauty salon.

What kinds of projects do you work on?

The majority of my past projects have been to design offices, stores, and apartments. However, in the past two years, I have taken on larger projects, doing the interior design and decoration of mansions (köşk) and waterfront houses (yalı).

Can you tell us about the 3D system that you use?

I learned about the 3D system through my colleague M. Pirhan Avşaroğlu. Basically, the system allows you to turn the highly technical 2D drawings into picture-like 3D images. These images allow the customer to get a clearer sense of what the place in question will look like.

What’s your understanding of interior design? What do you try to create in your work?

It’s really hard to describe but if I were to boil it down to a few words I’d say that my main goal is to create warm, cozy places that are livable rather than theatrical. My understanding of design is based on merging technology with the aesthetics of the past, taking advantage of a range of materials and using them efficiently.

What kinds of materials and colors do you prefer?

Natural materials like stone and wood. I often use earth tones with spurts of color (like a colored couch on an otherwise neutral room).

Have you always dreamed about becoming an interior designer?

I was interested in art since primary school, and what started as a passion for painting in my teens later became a drive to create beautiful spaces. This urge to create, to turn my dreams into reality, makes my life more enjoyable, and I can’t think about doing anything else but this.

Where do you get your inspiration from?

My inspiration comes from the venue itself – I first get to know the place and try to understand its relationship with its surroundings. I start to imagine the venue without any limitations. After taking into account the needs of the venue’s owner, I begin the process of designing and constructing a reality out of my dreams.

Does Istanbul serve as a source of inspiration?

I consider it a luxury to be an interior designer in Istanbul - living in such a cosmopolitan city with a patchwork history is inspirational in and of itself. I don’t necessarily go to a specific neighborhood or area to get inspired - I am thrilled by the idea that I never know what expects me in Istanbul.

Architecturally speaking - which parts of Istanbul do you like the most?

Yeniköy, Arnavutköy, Çengelköy, Beyoğlu, Galata, Topkapı. Because these neighborhoods are either located by the water and/or have great historical character.

Which buildings or venues do you like the most?

The building that Stanton Williams designed for University Arts London Central Saint Martins and the Taşkışla building of the ITU architecture department continues to amaze me every time I pass by it. I also really like 11 11 Lincoln in Miami.

What are the details that strike you most when you enter a venue for the first time?

The lighting, how the space has been used, the choice of materials and the combination of those materials.

Can you name some Turkish architects or architectural offices that you like?

Autoban, Habif Mimarlık, and Arolat Mimarlık , to name a few.

Joyce’s Istanbul

What you love most about Istanbul: I like how the city is sometimes so mysterious and surprising, and sometimes so predictable.

What you missed the most about Istanbul during your time abroad: The energy of the city.

Favorite spot for business dinners:Park Şamdan

After-work nibbles and drinks:Beymen Brasserie

Dancing:Bird

Romantic spot:Mimolette

Favorite place to hang out with friends:Delicatessen

Getaway from Istanbul:Güral Sapanca Wellness and Convention

Favorite Turkish tavern: Münferit

Favorite bar:Biber

Favorite breakfast/brunch venue: Backyard

Lunch:Delicatessen

Dinner:Kahraman

Favorite place to enjoy the amazing views of Istanbul:Müzedechanga and Sunset

Joyce Kohen can be contacted at joyce@jkmimarlik.com.

Eight months ago, Bora decided to open this quirky store in Galata on Serdar-ı Ekrem Sokak. It’s very easy to miss because it’s located underground, right below a butcher. As you go down the red narrow stairs between leather jackets and funky coats, you may feel like you’re about to enter some sort of wonderland or the cave of a wild animal. You probably won’t anticipate walking into untamed creativity sprinkled with lots of imagination, taste, and style. Oh, and the sweet taste of random strangers' memories.

You may not be the second-hand-clothing kind of person, but if any store will convert you, it is certainly Atölye dö Bora. Even if you have no intentions of being converted, I strongly suggest you check this store out just to get your creative juices flowing. This dimly-lit, out-of-a-movie-scene kind of retro store is the kind of place where you may choose to place the climax of your next novel. It has that magic where the past molds into the present. Only with a very stylish promise of the future.

OK. Let’s get into the logistics a bit.

On the left by the entrance is the small but very well-chosen men’s section, mainly filled with outerwear. Bora is also a men’s stylist so his men’s collection is quite ambitious. Ideal for men who want to make their mark with their sense of style.

The rest of the store is dedicated to women’s clothing: dresses, skirts, outerwear, tops, glasses, shoes, bags, all neatly stacked into their own section. The store does require serious investigation skills but rest assured that your search will be rewarding because you’ll come out of it with some great finds.

That’s because Bora is very specific about what he sells, he doesn’t just throw in whatever he finds. Did I mention that Bora opened the first second-hand store in Ankara called Junk Second Hand in 1998? The store is no longer around but it sure was a phenomenon when it was. So, in the past 15 years or so Bora has become the person who knows people in the world of second-hand-clothes-hunting in Berlin, London, and Paris. His collection includes nothing too theatrical but generally wearable retro style. Plus, the majority of the collection is in fairly good condition; there are some that even look brand new. Except for the now-antique 1920s dress. It’s pretty, but you probably wouldn’t wear it.

Now, the deal with haircutting. Let’s get one thing clear: Bora is a hair designer not a hairdresser. He’s been in the business – it’s slightly weird calling this a business, it’s more like his calling - for three years. He’s quite specific though – he only cuts short hair (like really short, possibly nothing below the shoulders). He’s very ambitious with blunt and bob cuts, and adding volume to dull-looking hair. If you’re ready to funkify your hair, Bora is who you’ve been searching for. Serdar-ı Ekrem Sokak, No. 8/A, Galata; P: (0212) 243 08 12

Get an idea of what Bora is about:

Take your first step into the world of wine with Kayra Wine Center’s workshop5 Adımda Şarap Tadımı(Wine Tasting in 5 Steps). In this two-hour workshop, you’ll learn about the look, smell, and taste of wine. You may end up with a new hobby or just have a great time tasting a variety of wine. Call (0212) 252 91 61 now to reserve your spot!

Where: Kayra Wine Center, Sıraselviler Caddesi No. 55/A, Cihangir; P: (0212) 252 91 61

When:21 February, 7:00PM – 9:00PM

How much:85 TL

Language:TR

Ingredients: (Serves 1 person)

100 gr wild mushroom

50 gr leek

50 gr potatoes

25 gr onion

5 gr olive oil

100 gr cream

100 gr milk

2 gr truffle oil

5 gr salt

Preparation:

1.Dice the mushroom, leek, potato, and onion.

2.Add the olive oil to a saucepan, then add the diced ingredients and fry over medium heat for 5-6 minutes.

3.Add cream, milk, and salt, and bring to the boil. Simmer for 10 minutes.

4.Put the mixture through a blender. Then pour it into a bowl, sprinkle with truffle oil, and serve.

Valentine’s Day Special Desserts - Guest Chef Melek Gündoğdu

For this Valentine’s Day, find the perfect recipes for the one you love. At this workshop entitled “Sevgililer Günü Özel Tatlıları,” ICI Guest Chef Melek Gündoğdu will teach you how to make delicious fruit pavlova, double chocolate hazelnut biscotti, heart-warming shortbread heart cookies, and finally espresso panna cotta.

If you decide on attending, sign up on ICI’s website to reserve your place(s).

Where:Istanbul Culinary Institute

When:6 February, 7:00pm

How much:From the venue: 130 TL.

Language:TR with ENG translation

Romantic Italian Menu - Guest Chef Michelangelo de Lauretis

Talented chef Michelangelo de Lauretis will teach the participants of this special workshop how to make a number of delicious and romantic Italian recipes. Attendees at “Romantik İtalyan Menüsü” will learn how to make carpaccio di branzino (marinated sea bass), strawberry risotto, filetto di pesce al cartoccio (sea bream in parchment paper), and pomegranate panna cotta.

If you decide on attending, sign up on ICI’s website to reserve your place(s).

Where:Istanbul Culinary Institute

When:9 February, 7:00pm

How much: From the venue: 130 TL.

Language:ENG with TR translation

For the Love of Chocolate

If you are having trouble finding a gift for Valentine’s Day, this workshop at MSA entitled “Çikolata Aşkına” could be what you’ve been looking for. Make yourself and your sweetheart happy with these delicious treats: heart-shaped raspberry chocolates, chocolate Florentines, orange and marzipan chocolates, and caramelized walnut truffle. Sign up for this workshop, for the love of chocolate!

Where:Mutfak Sanatları Akademisi

When:11 February, 10:00am

How much:From Biletix: 130 TL.

Language:TR

Valentine’s Day Gifts - Guest Chef Feyza Bayrakçıoğlu

This is ICI’s second workshop with a specific Valentine’s Day theme – so if you miss the first one, or want to learn different recipes, sign up for “Sevgililer Günü Hediyelikleri,” where Guest Chef Feyza Bayrakçıoğlu will teach you how to make romantic cupcakes, red and white éclairs, and orange rum and honey lavender truffle. Wrap them up and give them to your significant other – what better present for Valentine’s Day?

If you decide on attending, sign up on ICI’s website to reserve your place(s).

Where:Istanbul Culinary Institute

When:11 February, 11:30am

How much:From the venue: 120 TL.

Language:TR with ENG translation

Valentine’s Day Chocolate Making Course

The clock is ticking towards Valentine’s Day and you still don’t have anything planned? Fear not. On the 11th, Mövenpick Hotel Executive Chef Giovanni Terracciano will teach you how to make chocolate truffles, ganache, and several varieties of white and regular chocolate. Participants will learn the secrets of melting, storing, and shaping mouth-watering homemade chocolate. Following the course, each participant will receive a souvenir apron, compliments of Mövenpick Hotel Istanbul.

For reservations please call 0212 319 29 29.

Where:Mövenpick Hotel Istanbul

When:11 February, 3:00pm

How much:From the venue: 95 TL

Cupcakes

If you want to do something original for Valentine’s Day, MSA has brand-new recipes at their popular “Cupcake’ler” workshop, where you’ll learn how to make pumpkin cupcakes, cashew and beet cupcakes, “Ying Yang” cupcakes, and fig and ginger cupcakes.

Where:Mutfak Sanatları Akademisi

When:14 February, 10:00am

How much:From Biletix: 120 TL.

Language:TR

My Darling Menu

Prepare a special Valentine’s Day dinner with your date at MSA! At this workshop entitled “Sevgilim Menüm,” you and your partner will learn how to make the following Valentine’s Day-worthy dishes: arugula salad in raspberry dressing with garlic shrimps; sautéed scallops covered with parmesan in lemon dressing with truffle-oil; lemongrass and ginger marinated salmon, accompanied by asparagus with Mumm Cordon Rouge passion fruit sauce; and, to finish off, a strawberry mousse with glass of Mumm Cordon Rouge courtesy of MSA.

Where:Mutfak Sanatları Akademisi

When:14 February, 7:00pm

How much:From Biletix: 130 TL.

Language:TR

Istanbul Culinary Institute, Meşrutiyet Caddesi No. 59, Tepebaşı; P: (0212) 251 22 14

Mutfak Sanatları Akademisi, Meydan Sokak Beybi Giz Plaza B Blok No. 123-126, Maslak; P: (0212) 290 35 50

Mövenpick Hotel Istanbul, Emniyet Evleri Mahallesi Akarsu Caddesi No.2, 4. Levent; P: (0212) 319 29 29

Ingredients:

1 kg Jerusalem artichokes, peeled

25 g butter

2 tablespoon olive oil

1 medium onion, finely chopped

2 celery roots, diced

2 cloves of garlic, diced

1.5 lt vegetable broth

150 g cream

Preparation:

1.Set aside 3 little Jerusalem artichokesand chop the rest.

2.Heat the oil and butter in a pot over medium heat.

3.Sautee the onion, garlic and celery roots for 5 minutes; be careful not to let them brown.

4.Add the Jerusalem artichokesand mix; cover and cook for 5 minutes until fork tender.

5.Add water, bring to a boil, then reduce to low heat and simmer for 25 minutes.

6.Add ½ teaspoon of salt and let the mixture cool for 10 minutes.

7.Blend the mixture with 100 ml of cream in the blender, until it is pureed.

8.Thinly slice the remaining 3 Jerusalem artichokesand dry thoroughly with paper towel.

9.Heat the sunflower seed oil and fry the slice in batches of five; be sure to fry until each slice is crispy.

10.Remove from frying oil onto paper towels to absorb excess oil.

Service:

Heat up the soup, whisk the remaining cream and pour over soup in the serving bowls. Garnish with the fried slices Jerusalem artichokes.

Tucked away in the tiny village of Ulupelit 45 minutes away from Istanbul, Lavanda is a family-owned haven where 13 cozy rooms await city dwellers, embellished with a country house atmosphere, the comfort of your own home, and expansive views.

This family-owned boutique hotel serves to complement the busy Istanbul life, allowing Istanbulites to wind down, relax, and master the art of doing nothing. The hotel is complete with uniquely designed rooms, a state-of-the-art restaurant, a heavenly spa, and the breathtaking beauty of nature.

Whether you like to pamper or break a sweat, Lavanda promises a dose of much-deserved downtime.

The Food

Even if you can’t pull yourself away from the city for an entire weekend, spending a few hours at Lavanda is well worth the drive. The best way to enjoy the hotel is to go there on a near-empty stomach and indulge in the refined Mediterranean cuisine of the restaurant.

One of the reasons why all the dishes at Lavanda are so delicious is that only the best ingredients are used. The Black Trumpet Mushroom is picked in Ulupelit village, chestnuts come from Zonguldak, artichokes make their way from Çeşme, and foie gras comes all the way from France. Chef Emre Şen even has a spice garden where he grows basil, rosemary, tarragon, and a variety of other spices.

You can adventure through the menu with their tasting menu or the a la carte menu. On a recent visit, we opted for the tasting menu, which started off with a not-to-be-missed chestnut and mushroom soup made with chestnuts from Zonguldak, morel mushrooms, and black truffles. The tuna tartar (with sourdough crisps, wild thyme, and pine nuts) and mushroom & goat cheese fondue topped with slow poached egg that followed were utter perfection. After the prosciutto-filled home-made ravioli with pear, gorgonzola, and walnuts, we had a refreshing lime sorbet. The highlight of the menu for meat lovers was the chevon (slow-cooked for 10 hours), with grainy mustard mashed potatoes and asparagus.

The Wine

There is an extensive wine list including selections from Germany, Italy, France, Turkey, Australia, the United States, South Africa, Spain, Portugal, New Zealand, Argentine, and Chile. A welcoming surprise is the inclusion of two selections of white wine from Greece. If you feel overwhelmed by the options or don’t want to go through the 10-page-long wine list, ask your waiter to pair your food with a bottle of wine.

What to Do Once You’re there?

Lavanda is the ideal I-left-the-world-behind hotel - you know, birds chirping, wind brushing through leaves, fresh air, and an inviting landscape. You can cozy up with a cup of tea or savor a glass of fine wine or cognac by the fireplace. After you’re slightly tipsy, try your hand at billiards in the game room, or sober up with a walk in the forest or bike through what seems like the wilderness to a true urbanite. If it’s warm enough, take a dip in the pool. Nearby facilities can satisfy all your outdoorsy cravings, with a rally track, hunting grounds, and a club for adventure sports like hiking, ATV, and paintball.

The Spa

When you’re ready to retreat back into inaction, pamper yourself at the spa. Get a facial treatment with Darphin products or let the Balinese therapists transport you to another dimension with Ayurvedic, Hawaiian, Balinese, Shiatsu, Thai, Swedish, Reflexology, or hot stone massages. But whatever you do, don’t miss out on the sauna and jacuzzi complete with a view of the forest!

Make it a Romantic Getaway for Two

Anyone wanting to woo their better half in an intimate setting should consider a romantic getaway at Lavanda. Cuddle under a blanket, bond over your shared passion for great food, and just enjoy the company of each other. And do not forget about the jacuzzi!

How to Get there

Cross from Europe to Asia over the Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge, take the Şile exit and keep going straight. After driving 7-8km, you’ll pass through Çekmeköy. Another 15km later, you’ll pass through Ömerli. You’ll see a sign for Ulupelit (see the photo above) - take that exit. You’ll come across a large mosque where you’ll need to turn right. Soon after, you’ll see a small pinkish sign for Lavanda – just follow that and you’ll reach the hotel. Just watch out for cows on the road and keep in mind that they won't back up, you'll have to move around them.

Lavanda Boutique Hotel & Restaurant; Ulupelit Köyü Seçkin Sokak No. 2, Şile; P: (0216) 736 56 40. For more details, check out the hotel's website here.

During this time, she began to travel extensively and collect pieces of ethnic art and jewelry. She says that one of the things that she appreciates most about African art is that everything has a function, and even the most beautiful objects are made to be used, to have a purpose in daily life. Upon her return to Istanbul, Verda started working in the shipping sector, but eventually took the big step to leave the corporate world and start her own jewelry company, Tohum. Tohum means seed in Turkish, and the pieces reflect the simple beauty found in nature. The Tohum philosophy celebrates the individuality of the wearer. Each piece is a one-of-a-kind object inspired by the natural beauty of the materials used as well as the personality of the person for whom it is designed, and is often inspired by ethnic adornment pieces.

During her travels, Verda discovered unusual items, such as 19th-century West African trade shells, and wanted to make these beautiful items wearable. Therefore, her first pieces were built from old stones and shells, fossils, and crystals. Some pieces are subtler, while others use more striking colors and materials, such as fossilized coral or an unusual shell known as Hippo Tooth. She only uses 925 carat silver, not gold, in her designs, because her pieces are meant for every woman.In fact, one of her favorite pieces in her collection is a very simple ring made with an almond still in its shell, encased in a thin band of silver. The almond itself has no real value but it is still a strikingly beautiful piece thanks to the use of natural materials and the simplicity of the design.

Although it was not easy to transition from being an employee to being an entrepeneur, Verda has enjoyed a considerable amount of success over a relatively short period of time.Soon after founding her company, she put together an Inspiration Exhibition for Pearlfisher, a London-based design and branding company, and later on the same company designed her brand for her.Verda strongly feels that Tohum should not be a trendy brand, and instead focuses on bespoke pieces. All of the pieces are handcrafted, and while Verda herself has studied jewelry making, she currently concentrates on the business end of the company. Her pieces are all made in a workshop in the Grand Bazaar, where she works with an Armenian craftsman who has been in the same workshop for the past 30 years.

I asked Verda some questions about Istanbul and what makes the city special for her:

What is your earliest memory of Istanbul?

Going to Sultanahmet as a young girl, visiting the Archeology Museum, Yerebatan Saray, and listening to classical music concerts at Aya Irini Church.

What do you love about the city?

The mixture that you have here – Istanbul is a spicy city.

What do you least love?

That there are too many people here who are not aware of what is going on around them.

What are your favorite neighborhoods in Istanbul?

The old city – Sultanahmet, especially early in the morning, because of the textures, feelings, and the Aya Sofya. Also Arnavutköy and Teşvikiye/Maçka.

Favorite Turkish foods?

Being more of a vegetable person, I like dishes like Türlü, but also Patlıcanlı Kebab.

What’s your favorite place to eat breakfast?

Karaköy Namlı and Lokanta Maya in Karaköy.

What are your favorite restaurants?

Karaköy Lokantasi and X Restaurant.

What food do you miss the most when away from Istanbul?

The air that I breathe.

Favorite view in the city?

Crossing the Galata Bridge going to work in Sultanahmet. Every day I appreciate it.

Favorite break in Istanbul?

Having tea at Sepetçiler Kasrı.

Favorite Turkish designers?

Hussein Chalayan and my uncle, the interior designer Kalef Alaton, who has sadly passed away.

Were you an artistic child?

I don’t know. Not necessarily, but maybe. I was always different, different things interested me.

Do you have any new projects you are planning for the future?

There are currently no galleries in Istanbul that specialize in African art. That is something that I would like to work on, to open such a space.

For more info on Tohum, please click here!

When:Fri - January 20, 2012 / 08:00 PM

Where: Tim Show Center;Maslak Show Center Büyükdere Caddesi Derbent Mevkii Maslak; P:(0212) 286 66 86

How much: From Biletix: 80 TL; 60 TL; 40 TL; 30 TL.

Sanda Spa in Hillside City Club within İstinyePark shopping mall is an exotic getaway from the stresses of daily life: fresh flowers, calming essential oils, relaxation music, and candles everywhere in this modern, elegant, and spacious spa. You can take your pick from a wide variety of facials, body treatments, and massages, or opt for their luxurious Turkish bath.

You getaway will begin with a cup of ginger tea, and it can go in any direction you like: if you want something light and gentle, try the Sanda Escape that uses Balinese massage techniques. If you’ve never had a massage with oil-soaked bamboo sticks, go for the Bamboo Miracle. If one therapist won’t cut it for you, go for the Twins, where two massage therapists will use five different massage techniques in one session.If you want to see what relaxing hot stones can do for you, go for the Magic Hot Stone. If you want to hit two birds with one stone, go for the Special for Her (an anti-cellulite massage) or Special for Him (that is created to release tension from muscles of sports enthusiasts). Body treatments include a variety of scrubs (se salt, coconut, hazelnut), body wraps (herbal, coffee, avocado), and bodycofee treatments that purify and refresh your skin (such as detoxifying and anti-cellulite body wrap, hand treatment, and food treatment). Keep in mind that the spa also features a sauna, steam room, and lounge area so you can continue your day of relaxation after your treatment ends. Most treatments are for 50 minutes, 90 minutes, or 120 minutes, and the prices range from 105 TL to 430 TL.

Sanda Spa has three locations in Istanbul:

Sanda Spa – İstinye; Hillside City Club Istinye Park, Istinye Bayırı Caddesi No.73, İstinye; P: (0212) 367 2060

Sanda Spa – Etiler; Hillside City Club Etiler, Alkent Sitesi Tepecik Yolu No. 22/14, Etiler; P: (0212) 352 25 00

Sanda Spa – Trio; Hillside City Club Trio, Barbaros Mahallesi Halk Caddesi No.85/1, Ataşehir; P: (0216) 472 00 72

Cheesecakes

At this workshop at Mutfak Sanatları Akademisi entitled Cheesecake’ler, you will learn how to make the following variations on this popular dairy treat: Black Forest Cheesecake, White-Chocolate-and-Orange-Flavored Cheesecake, Cheesecake with Candied Chestnuts, and Russian Cheesecake with Chocolate Chips.

Where: Mutfak Sanatları Akademisi, Meydan Sokak Beybi Giz Plaza B Blok No. 123-126, Maslak; P: (0212) 290 35 50
When: January 10, 10:00 AM – 2:00 PM

How much:From the venue:120 TL.

Language:TR

French Desserts with Guest Chef Esra Özkutlu

There’s no denying that the French are masters of dessert-making. At ICI’s workshop Fransız Tatlıları with Guest Chef Esra Özkutlu, you’ll learn how to make three delicious French desserts: Pears Belle-Hélène (baked pears filled with pastry cream, with chocolate sauce), Galette des Rois (mille-feuille pastry with almond cream), and Orange Tartelette.

Where: Istanbul Culinary Institute,Mesrutiyet Caddesi No. 59, Tepebaşı; P: (0212) 251 22 14
When: Januayr 26, 7:00 PM – 10:00 PM

How much:From the venue: 120 TL.

Language:TR with ENG translation

You love to eat tapas but don’t know how to make them yourself? Head to Mutfak Sanatları Akademisi and learn how to make mini beef quesadillas, marinated sea bass with avocado and spicy peppers, coconut-covered shrimp with spicyaiolidip, and chicken leg confit with mini pizzas topped with mushroom puree.

Where: Mutfak Sanatları Akademisi, Meydan Sokak Beybi Giz Plaza B Blok No. 123-126, Maslak; P: (0212) 290 35 50

When:January 5, 7:00 PM – 10:00 PM

How much:From the venue:120 TL

Language:TR

Salmon Noodle

Ingredients:

150 gr Salmon fillet

5 ml Mirin

20 ml Dark soy sauce

5 ml Sesame Oil

15 ml Oyster sauce

10 ml Olive oil

10 gr Miso

60 gr Egg noodle

10 gr Shallot

5 gr Fresh ginger

3 gr Fresh coriander

2 gr Nigella seeds

2 gr Roasted sesame seeds

Preparation:

1. Mix half of the mirin, dark soy sauce, miso, and sesame oil in a cup.

2. Finely chop the shallot and ginger, and add them to the mixture.

3. Pour the mixture on the salmon fillet, and leave in the fridge for 1 hour.

4. Boil the noodles and drain.

5. Add the remaining sesame oil and dark soy sauce, and all of the oyster sauce in a frying pan with the noodles, and let it absorb.

6. Put a fork through the noodle and form a roll for service.

7. Add the olive oil in a hot frying pan. First cook the skin side, then flip.

8. In the meantime, mix the nigella seeds with the sesame seeds in a cup.

9. Then cut the salmon into pieces, and dip in the seed mixture.

10. Place the salmon next to the noodle, and serve with finely chopped fresh coriander.

Mini Lamb Chops

Ingredients:

150 gr Lamb chops (as a whole and without bones)

10 ml Olive oil

50 ml Red wine

6 pieces of small bread rolls

6 leaves of baby spinach

50 gr tomato paste with walnuts (available for sale at Backyard)

Mix of fresh herbs (spinach, rocket, thyme, marjoram)

Salt & pepper

Preparation:

1. Cut the bread rolls in half, and bake the lower parts in the oven for 3 minutes.

2. Then spread the tomato paste on the breads and place a leaf of baby spinach on each.

3. Add olive oil in a hot frying pan and sear all four sides of the lamb chops.

4. Add salt, pepper, and red wine, and let it absorb.

5. Remove the lamb from the heat, slice it, and add on the bread rolls. Serve with mix of fresh herbs.

Quail Eggs and Truffle Oil

Ingredients:

2 slices of brioche

60 gr Cream cheese

20 gr beyaz peynir (feta cheese)

125 gr Baby carrot

100 gr Baby zucchini

10 ml Olive oil

6 Quail Eggs

20 ml Grape vinegar

Black lava salt

Truffle Oil

Salt & Pepper

Preparation

1. Boil the baby carrots for 6-8 minutes.

2. Cut the baby zucchinis lengthwise in four pieces, and cook each side for 1 minute on the grill along with the carrots.

3. Cut the brioche into 6 small pieces and bake in the oven for 3 minutes.

4. Spread cream cheese on the toasted breads.

5. Place the grilled vegetables on the breads, and add crumbled beyaz peynir on top. Put the bread in the oven and bake for 2-3 minutes.

6. In the meantime, boil water in a small saucepan, and add the grape vinegar. Poach the eggs for 1 minute.

7. Take the quail eggs with the help of a slotted spoon.

8. Cut the sides off poached eggs, and place them on top of the breads.

9. Sprinkle black lava salt on the eggs, drip 2 drops of truffle oil on each, and serve.

Pink Cloud

Ingredients:

4 cl Vodka

2cl Raspberry liquor

2 cl Strawberry extract

1cl Mastic extract

7 cl Milk

1 cl Cream

Preparation: Mix all and serve.

Eucalyptus Colins

Ingredients:

4 cl Gin

2 cl Sugar syrup

2 cl Lemon juice

1 cl Eucalyptus extract

1 cl Blue Curaçao

Preparation:Mix all and serve.

Tequila Lemonade

Ingredients:

6cl Tequila

0.5 cl Liche extract

7 cl Lemonade

Preparation:Mix all and serve.

New Year’s Eve Party

If you’re planning to host a New Year’s Eve party this year, head to MSA to learn how to prepare a great menu with LilBitz owner and Chef Maksut Aşkar. In this four-hour workshop, you’ll first watch Aşkar prepare warm sangria. Then, you’ll learn how to make a blackberry-flavored purslane salad with beetroot and goat’s cheese, mashed peas with coriander, turkey meatballs with corn cream, steak strips, mashed potatoes with cumin, and gruyere cream with tarragon and raspberry. Last but not least, you’ll learn how to make a crunchy pumpkin dessert with lavender.

When:December 24, 10:00am-02:00pm

Where:Mutfak Sanatları Akademisi; Meydan Sokak Beybi Giz Plaza B Blok No. 123-126, Maslak; P: (0212) 290 35 50

How much:150 TL

Language:TR

Hello Christmas - Guest Chef Feyza Bayrakçıoğlu

If you’re hosting a Christmas dinner at home, head to ICI to learn how to prepare Christmas desserts. Guest Chef Feyza Bayrakçıoğlu will teach you how to make gingerbread with crème anglaise sauce, Christmas meringues filled with chocolate cream, spicy cookies, and red velvet cake.

When:December 24, 11:00am-02:00pm

Where:Istanbul Culinary Institute;Mesrutiyet Caddesi No. 59, Tepebaşı; P: (0212) 251 22 14

How much:120 TL

Language:TR with ENG translation

New Year’s Gifts

If you don’t want to get a conventional gift for your loved ones this year, head to MSA to prepare a cake and give that as a New Year’s gift. In this four-hour workshop, you’ll learn how to make chocolate balls with mango, colorful cookies, a mini crumble cake with cranberry, and heart-shaped chocolate with raspberry.

When:December 27,10:00am-02:00pm

Where:Mutfak Sanatları Akademisi;Meydan Sokak Beybi Giz Plaza B Blok No. 123-126, Maslak; P: (0212) 290 35 50

How much:120 TL

Language:TR

New Year’s Eve Menu

If you want to impress your guests during your New Year’s Eve dinner at home, head to MSA where you’ll cook with MSA chefs and learn to create a jaw-dropping menu on the day. In this three-hour course, you’ll learn how to make pumpkin soup with truffles, steak on skewers with béarnaise sauce, duck with orange demi-glace sauce served with orzo with lemon grind and dried cranberries, and warm chocolate cake with vanilla ice-cream.

When:December 29, 07:00pm-10:00pm

Where:Mutfak Sanatları Akademisi;Meydan Sokak Beybi Giz Plaza B Blok No. 123-126, Maslak; P: (0212) 290 35 50

How much:130 TL

Language:TR

To check out more upcoming cooking classes, click here.

Looking for creative ways to shake up your New Year’s Eve party? Here is a cocktail recipe from Cevat Yıldırım, the award-winning bar chef of Lucca and bartending/mixology instructor at Mutfak Sanatları Akademisi (Culinary Arts Academy).

Ingredients:

5cl Raspberry Syrup

8cl Prosecco

Preparation:

Mix the ingredients and serve in champagne glasses.

How did you start to play the piano?

My mother bought me a toy piano when I was one year old, and I played it all day long, imitating my mother's singing and improvising. At the age of four, I started taking lessons from a professional teacher. She always encouraged me to play what I wanted to play.

How do you learn to play pieces? Do you prefer to listen to recordings or does someone analyze the piece for you?

I learn by means of braille, in addition to another method used by my teacher. I ask my assistants to record the music onto a cassette, hands separately. They play the right hand part and record it, then the left hand part. It’s necessary to make two different recordings because each hand plays notes in different octaves. After my assistants have made the recording, they split the music into smaller sections, and add comments about the composer’s markings. In order to perceive the music as clearly and accurately as possible, I ask them to avoid adding their own interpretations when making these recordings. After memorizing the recordings, I try to combine the sounds of each hand and distinguish them from each other, and in this way create my own musical interpretation.

Your sense of hearing is very acute. Are you able to tell when an audience is particularly moved or excited?

Yes, I can pick up on signals that the audience is moved, surprised, or carried away by the rhythm of the piece. If I perceive positive reactions from the audience, it encourages me a great deal.

What did you think about your audiences in Istanbul?

I found them to be very warm. It was a great pleasure to play for them.

How did you come to give a concert in Istanbul?

I had never been to Istanbul before. Istanbul was a city that I really wanted to give a concert in. I received an invitation to come here – and here I am.

What things do you pay attention to when trying to learn about a city you’re visiting for the first time?

In order to get a sense of what a city is like, I go for a walk. I listen to its sounds; I try to feel its breezes and smell its odors.

How would you describe the sound of Istanbul?

As far as I can tell, Istanbul has a cacophonic sound.

What have you done here in Istanbul aside from your concert?

After the concert we went to Kumkapı and had hamsi kuşu (stuffed and fried anchovies), calamari, shrimps with garlic, and cold meze. We listened to gypsy music and had a great time – we even got up and danced.

The next day we went to the İstanbul Müzik Merkezi in Tünel and tried out Turkish instruments: the saz, the davul [drum], and the zurna [Turkish woodwind instrument]. I had played Mozart’s Alla Turca Rondo in the concert...and now that I’ve tried out these instruments I can better internalize and understand the piece, because I have heard real “alla turca” sounds.

Finally, we went to the Hacı Baba Restaurant and ate Adana Kebap, Kuzu Şiş, and Hünkar Kebabı with eggplant. I liked it a lot.

Aside from playing the piano, what activities do you enjoy?

As I never get tired of playing the piano, I can’t imagine not playing. But I like to swim in order to rejuvenate myself. When I have time, I enjoy leaving the city and listening to the songs of the birds, the murmuring of the rivers, the blowing of the winds. All these things inspire me to compose short pieces.

Do you have an iPod? What musicians do you listen to on your iPod?

Yes, I have an iPod. It’s full of all sorts of music, especially classical music – Chopin, Debussy.

What inspires you to compose?

When I go for a walk in the woods, I listen to the sound of the running water, the wind blowing through the leaves...the trees...the birds. I love nature, and when I compose music I am inspired by these sounds. [Nobu played his own composition at the end of his concert on Friday as an encore.]

Who are your favorite composers?

Debussy, Chopin and Beethoven. I feel that Chopin and Beethoven are closer to my heart.

Who is your favorite Turkish musician?

I really enjoy listening to Fazıl Say.

In honor of our 20^th anniversary, we asked Civan Er, chef at the award-wining Changa restaurant, to create for us a dish inspired by Istanbul. He came up with this heavenly dessert, which is a fun take on traditional baklava, bursting with traditional Turkish flavors, yet totally modern.

Ingredients:

16 pieces thin phyllo dough cut into 5 x 20 cm pieces

50 grams haloumi cheese

1 tablespoon butter

For frying:

1 liter sunflower-seed oil

50 grams butter

For the syrup:

350 ml water

200 grams sugar

A couple of drops of lemon juice

For the Custard:

50 grams pistachio nuts, skins removed

100 ml milk

30 grams granulated sugar

1 egg yolk

For garnish:

1 pomegranate

Preparation:

1. To make the custard, mix the pistachios and milk in a food processor and refrigerate mixture for 2 hours.

2. Meanwhile, place the haloumi into a bowl of water and refrigerate for 2-3 hours to allow the water to soak up the salt. Remove from water and grate cheese. Set aside.

3. Strain the pistachio and milk mixture using a cheese cloth or fine colander. Then add the sugar and the egg yolk, and heat this mixture in a saucepan over low heat until it starts to thicken. Remove from heat and cool the mixture in a bowl filled with ice water.

4. For the syrup, heat the water and sugar in a saucepan over a low heat. When the sugar has melted, increase the heat a little and add a couple of drops of lemon juices when it reaches a syrupy consistency.

5. Remove from heat, and cool the syrup to room temperature.

6. Cut the pomegranate in half. Rap the back with a spoon while holding it over a bowl in order to extract the seeds. Set aside.

7. Layer two pieces of phyllo dough. Place one tablespoon of grated haloumi cheese on one end, then fold carefully into a triangle. Use melted butter to seal the edges. Repeat this stage with the remaining pieces of phyllo dough.

8. Heat the sunflower-seed oil in a frying pan, and fry the baklavas until they turn a light golden brown. Just before you remove them from the pan, add 50 grams of butter to the oil for flavor. Remove the baklavas with a slotted spoon and place them on a plate covered with a paper towel to soak up the excess oil.

9. Next, place the baklavas into the syrup mixture and let them soak for 1 minute.

10. Meanwhile, distribute the pistachio custard onto your serving plates.

11. Remove the baklavas from the syrup and serve on the bed of pistachio custard, two per plate.

12. Garnish with pomegranate seeds and serve warm.

Adım Adım 62 Çorba is a collection of soup recipes by Burak Aziz Sürük and Cengiz Çakıt, the two young cooks of Ömer M. Koç. The book is in Turkish, but we highly suggest that our English-speaking readers get the book and a good Turkish friend as a translator.Here is a sample recipe from the book:

Ingredients:

4 beets (peeled and diced)

1 dried onion (diced)

1 green apple (sliced into 8 pieces with its core removed)

3 spoons of red lentil

1 spoon of olive oil

10 cups of water

Black pepper

Himalayan salt

Preparation:

1. Roast the onion with olive oil until it turns pink.

2. Add the beets to the onions and keep on roasting for 2-3 minutes.

3. Then add the green apples, red lentil, and water.

4. Boil them for about an hour, occasionally add water if necessary.

5. After an hour, take it out of the oven and put it through the food processor.

6. Sprinkle with salt and black pepper, and serve.

The Aliva Spa offers hot stone therapy, aromatherapy, reflexology, and a range of massages, including Thai, Balinese, Shiatsu, Swedish, pregnancy, Indian head massage, and more. The many facilities include a large pleasure pool, a bio sauna, a Finnish sauna and bath, a Turkish bath, an ice fountain, a shock shower, and more. A range of body and skin treatments are also available, and couples can reserve the private sauna and jacuzzi rooms. With so many relaxation options, Güral Sapanca is the perfect place to rest your mind, body, and soul.Güral Sapanca Wellness Park; Tepebaşı Mahallesi Şehit Cevdet Koç Caddesi No. 73 Kırkpınar, Sapanca; P: (0264) 242 56 00;www.guralsapanca.com

Divan Çukurhan Hotel is located in Ankara’s old town, in an area known as Kaleiçi. It is across from the main gate of the old city, in a neighborhood that was historically used as a horse market. It is housed in a traditional Anatolian caravanserai – a roadside inn for travelers journeying across long distances to trade their wares. Caravanserai were particularly prevalent along the Silk Road, a trade network of interconnecting routes that, at its peak, stretched across southern Europe to Asia and North Africa. They were important because they not only provided shelter for traders and their beasts of burden, but were also vibrant hubs of commerce and vital for the exchange of information.

Built in 1522, the Çukurhan caravanserai is one of Ankara’s most important early Ottoman buildings. Constructed partly with finished stone, and partly with timber and sun-baked bricks, the center contained a large open courtyard that was used as an open-air market. For centuries, Çukurhan provided what were then considered luxury accommodations for travelers along these routes, and played an important role in the city’s economy as a center of commerce, selling everything from fruits and grains to the city’s famous Mohair wool. However, in 1950, the building was severely damaged by a major fire, which destroyed a large part of the original structure, and led to its eventual abandonment.

In 2007, the Koç Group, headed by Mr. Rahmi Koç, leased the property from the Turkish government and began restorations. Rahmi Koç is one of the country’s most high-profile businessmen, and is an epic figure in Turkey today. He owns banks, hotels, museums, and more, and is also known as a philanthropist and a passionate and refined collector. His father was Vehbi Koç, one of the country’s wealthiest men and founder of Koç Holding Corp., Turkey’s largest industrial conglomerate.

Restorations took two and a half years to complete, with great care taken to preserve the original state of the building. Whenever possible, original materials and building techniques were used. Of course, some changes to the original structure were made out of necessity, including covering the courtyard with a glass roof, which allows natural sunlight to stream in while also protecting the sun-baked bricks.

As striking as the building itself is the interior design and the many decorative items on display throughout the hotel. Each one of the hotel’s 19 guest rooms is decorated with a different concept or theme, including Bamboo, Indian, British, Ottoman, Tibetan, German, Venetian, Bosphorus, and Beijing. The rooms seamlessly blend the antique and new items to very tasteful effect, with each room transporting you to a different world. Every room in the hotel is of deluxe standard, and includes a comfy seating area with all the amenities needed to make you feel right at home, including a swiveling, wall-mounted flat-screen television, an espresso machine, fresh fruit and Turkish delights, and pillows and duvets so fluffy you’ll feel like you’ve landed in a cloud. Meanwhile, the bathrooms are all wall-to-wall marble in green, brown, or cream, with toiletries from Molton Brown.

The interior design was done by Turkish designer Neşe Ergin and Barbara Ther, a Londonbased interior designer and antiques dealer who is a good friend of Mr. Koç. Ms. Ther has worked with Mr. Koç on many projects. She oversaw the design of his Istanbul yalı (Bosphorus mansion) and has helped build his vast antique collection over many years. In fact, pieces from Mr. Koç’s private antique collection are displayed throughout the hotel.

This is the type of hotel where once you enter, you won’t want to leave and could easily be a visitor destination in and of itself. There is a small, cozy bar decorated with photos of historical Ankara, and a study that features a unique library as well as various African masks, safari memorabilia, and mounted animal heads, giving the impression that you’ve stepped back in time to another era. The covered courtyard has a dining section as well as a relaxation area with a small indoor stream and leather sofas, where you can sit back with a book or a friend.

Breakfast is served in the courtyard in the Avlu restaurant and features a mouthwatering selection of classic Turkish breakfast items, including regional cheeses, olives, jams, honeycomb, and clotted cream, as well as a hot menu featuring both Turkish and European dishes. On weekends, there are live musical performances, which alternate between classical and jazz, helping to make this a popular brunch spot with locals.

The hotel’s other dining option is the Çengelhan restaurant, which is actually located in an adjacent building, the Rahmi M. Koç Museum. Offering traditional Turkish cuisine, this is widely regarded as one of the top restaurants in the city, and is a member of the prestigious culinary Chaines des Rotisseurs, an international gastronomic society. Also located in a glass-covered courtyard, Çengelhan offers an atmospheric dining experience, where you enjoy your meal surrounded by museum displays.

In fact, when staying at the Divan Çukurhan, a visit to this museum is a must. Opened in 2005, this museum has a wide collection that features many items related to transportation and communication, from toys to equipment. This museum has special meaning for Mr. Koç as it contains a restored version of the general store where his father first worked as a young boy, selling everything from spices to Mohair. It was in that store that the elder Koç took his first steps into commerce, starting down a path that would eventually lead to a business empire.

Although a relatively new city, Ankara still offers a number of interesting sights and museums, which can easily fill a weekend. When Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, the founder of modern Turkey, named the town (then known as Angora) the capital of the newly founded Turkish republic, city planners decided not to touch the historic town located inside the old city walls. Consequently, this area still retains its character in its winding dusty streets and historical buildings, many of which have been restored over the past decade. While there are a number of restaurants housed in restored Ottoman homes, known as konaks, the most noteworthy building is the citadel itself, which dates back to the Galatians, with the Byzantine emperor Michael II and the Selçuks making further additions. Enough of the original structure remains to give an idea of what the citadel looked like, and its hilltop location offers sweeping views over the city.

One of the sightseeing highlights of any visit to Ankara must surely be the world-famous Museum of Anatolian Civilizations, also located right by the old town in a historical building that dates back to the 15th century. This displays an incredible collection of artifacts from important archeological sites all over Anatolia, with a particularly impressive section on Hittite artifacts, including superb sculpture and jewelry items. For some more recent history, you can visit the old parliament building, or Anıtkabir, the mausoleum for Atatürk. And if all that history wears you out, Ankara also offers a number of very pleasant parks and boulevards for strolling, shopping, and eating, particularly in the Tunalı and Kavaklıdere districts.

Whether it’s business or sightseeing that brings you to Ankara, anyone who appreciates luxury and history will find the Divan Çukurhan Hotel the ideal place to stay. With a wonderful attention to detail in both the décor and the service, this hotel makes for a truly memorable stay, and leaves you with the feeling of having witnessed living history. The many works of art it holds from Mr. Koç’s private collection give it a very personal feel, as though the whole project were a labor of love. Mr. Koç has been quoted as saying that acquiring pieces for his many antique collections is “an unending story.” If this is so, then this hotel is surely an important chapter in the tale.

Tarihi Ankara Kalesi, Necatibey Mahallesi, Depo Sokak No:3 Altındağ Ulus, Ankara; P: (0312) 306 64 00

Originally published in The Guide Istanbul September/October 2011

If you want to add a Turkish twist to your Thanksgiving dinner, makekabak tatlısı(pumpkin dessert) instead of pumpkin pie for dessert.

Ingredients: (serves 6)

1kg pumpkin

400g / 2 cups sugar

100g / ¾ cups walnuts, diced

1 healing tbsp butter

200ml / ¾ cup water

Clotted cream, as desired

Preparation:

1. Peel the pumpkin, cut into 6cm slices and place in a large pot

2. Add ¾ cup water and butter. Cover and simmer, occasionally adding water if necessary

3. When the pumpkin begins to soften, add the sugar

4. Continue simmering for about 45 minutes or until the pumpkin is tender, glossy and slightly caramelized

5. Plate, sprinkle with walnuts and top with a dollop of clotted cream

Skip the traditional sides and go for this delicious bulgur dish!

Ingredients: (serves 6)

3 cups coarse bulgur

6 cups beef stock

300g whole chestnuts

2 small red onions, chopped

8 tbsp butter

100 g / ½ cup small, plump raisins

2 tsp cumin

1 tsp allspice

1 bunch dill, finely chopped

Sea salt, to taste

Preparation:

1. Cut an “X” into one side of the chestnuts. Boil in salted water for up to 10 minutes. Shell and halve the chestnuts.

2. Slice the halved onions horizontally to create half moon-shaped pieces.

3. Make sure that the bulgur and raisins are free of stems and foreign objects.

4. In a heavy saucepan, cook onions in 3 tablespoons of butter over moderate heat, stirring occasionally until golden brown, 5-7 minutes.

5. Add beef stock, remaining butter, raisins, cumin, allspice and sea salt and bring to a boil.

6. Add the chestnuts and bulgur. Cook on high heat for 3-4 minutes; reduce heat to low and simmer for an additional 10-15 minutes until all the liquid has absorbed.

7. Remove from heat and stir only after it has rested for 15 minutes.

8. Spoon onto a serving dish, sprinkle with dill and serve.

But it’s hard not to truly feel the contradiction. Because in the end do we not find ourselves wondering why all of the world’s most profound realizations come off as poster-children for the most telltale clichés?

So here we are in an overpopulated, noisy metropolitan that happens to harbor many an opportunity for sanctuary and relaxation, where residents are just as comfortable in the incessant stream of crowded Taksim as they are in the asylum of an empty tea house and winding through a crowd of veiled women as they are basting in the corridors among shameless nudity in misty Turkish baths.

These days, Istanbul’s calm is not as easily accessible as is its chaos. But rest assured that escaping the frustration of after-work traffic is a swift cower and slip into the nearest spa, hamam, or therapy center to sit back, relax, and let the senses take a rest from perpetual stimulation.

Here are some of the best of the best for your balanced being.

A hamam to remember

Navigating the hamam scene can be a bit iffy. While Turkish baths are not hard to find, choosing one that makes you feel comfortable is. I mean, think about it: if you are planning to lie naked on marble slabs in a room surrounded by other exposed patrons of the same sex, it’s probably a good idea to check off the sanitary box. At the same time, in a city as historically vibrant as Turkey, the hamam is a cultural icon and finding one that is historic, versus touristy and overpriced, is an essential part of the experience.

One of our favorites is Çinili Hamam, located in Üsküdar on the Asian side. Not only is this hamam remote enough to ward off the incessant stream of tourists characteristic of the Sultanahmet area but it also has quite a history, dating back to 1640.

Çavuşdere Caddesi No. 204, Üsküdar. P: (0216) 394 97 10 for women’s section; (0216) 553 15 93 for men’s section.

A spa you’ll never forget

Hands down one of the best spas in Istanbul is LifeCo’s Well-being Center in Akatlar. The oasis offers not only top-notch services characteristic of any holistic health spa but also has the facilities to back it up. Upon entering, spa-goers are provided a locker to stash their outdoor-wear for more fitting attire—long white robes and slippers.

Services, therapies, and facilities offered include Thai massage, aromatherapy massage, abdominal massage, shiatsu, reflexology, infrared and traditional sauna, assisted and self-administered colon hydrotherapy, yoga and flexibility classes, meditation guidance, and a Turkish bath with foam massage. In addition to its several personalized detox programs, the center also provides weight control, anti-aging, immune boost, pre-pregnancy detox, exclusive genetics and skin wellness services.

The spa center is also equipped with a sitting area and juice bar, as well as a mini boutique selling health products, from supplements and beauty supplies to a mini re-bounders and water filtration devices.

Consider LifeCo’s Akatlar Well-being center your regular weekend getaway. To make an appointment, call (0212) 325 3280. Club Sporium (behind Mayadrom) Cumhuriyet Cad. No: 4/8.

If you can’t eat it, don’t wear it!

It’s hard to miss this rose in the thorn bush. Not that the Cihangir neighborhood is prickly or unpleasant by any means, but Vie en Rose, a natural herbal pharmacy shop that grows its own herbs on organic farms in Turkey, is one of a kind in the area. The shop makes all of its own products, including dry herbs, herbal hydrolats, tea blends, oils, hand-made bars and nourishment scrubs, natural deodorants, and rose products. Indeed, Vie en Rose is the body’s natural apothecary! Simple, organic, pure and fragrant, the products at Vie en Rose is the zen you can wear on you while you navigate the hustle and bustle of your regular Istanbul day.

In addition to its range of products, Vie en Rose offers aromatherapy massages in an adjacent building, and every Tuesday an acupuncturist takes clients.

To schedule an appointment, call (0212) 252 0907. Yeni Yuva Sokak 50a, Cihangir.

Turning back the hands of time

Su Spa & Wellness Centeris a sure-fire route to put the final touches on reversing the aging process and slimming the body, all in a relaxed and soothing atmosphere. The spa offers ayurveda, Thai, Bali, Swedish, relaxation, sport, and aromatherapy massages as well as anti-aging, collagen and lifting, wrinkle, face lift and deep facial cleansing services. The spa is equipped with a Turkish bath and offers clients weight-loss programs incorporating body stimulation therapies. With its several locations, the spa is a great go-to location for a quick facial or a mid-week re-aligning massage.

Sheraton Hotel, Sahilyolu Caddesi, Ataköy; P:(0216) 302 42 72
Büyük Kulüp, Cemil Topuzlu Caddesi No. 42, Çiftehavuzlar; P: (0216) 302 42 72

A taste of history

Luxuriate in perhaps the most renowned five-star hotel in Istanbul, Çırağan Palace Kempinski, which was formerly an Ottoman palace. It might not be the most budget-friendly of joints, but it’s not the wedding suite you’re after this time; instead, head straight to Çırağan’s Sanitas Spa, which is lauded for its top-of-the-line services, including classical massage, Bali massage, abhyanga, shirobhyanga, shirodhara, stone massage, Thai massage, shiatsu Turkish bath, facial and body treatments, Asian Spell, mandara, reflexology, manicure, pedicure, and cosmetic treatments. Afterwards, walk outside on the palace’s lawns, on the edge of the Bosphorus, and have a truly zen-like moment of peace and serenity. You’ll forget just steps away is Beşiktaş’s fervent crowd and Ortaköy’s chirping street vendors.

Çırağan Caddesi 32, Beşiktaş; P: (0212) 326 4646.

Many birds with one stone

Looking for that obscure cosmetic therapy or off-kilter massage style? M-onep in Etiler has probably got it. M-onep is the ultimate station for your comprehensive spa needs. Services include: rejuvenation and renewal treatments; skin renewal; generation and mark (e.g. tattoo) removal; slimming, firming, and cellulite treatments; laser hair removal; dermatological treatments; beauty and skin care treatments; special after pregnancy programs; and engaged couples programs.

Maya Residences Sport Center, Bebek Mahallesi Otlukbeli Caddesi Deniz Sokak No.16-17-28; P: (0212) 352 32 33

Edirne, a historical city once known as Hadrianopolis (Adrianople), about a three hours’ drive northwest of Istanbul, was the capital of the nascent Ottoman Empire from 1365 to 1453, and is chock-full of historical sites including the extraordinary 16th-century Selimiye Camii. The city is small enough to be explored on foot, and fortunately many of Edirne’s best eateries are located in the center of town near the main street known as Saraçlar Caddesi. A trip to Edirne would not be complete without trying ciğer tava (fried liver), a local specialty for nearly a century and a half. Forget about the unappetizing servings of liver you had to endure as a child, and give this crispy treat a try – you won’t regret it. Ciğer tava can be enjoyed at many restaurants in downtown Edirne, among them the renowned Ciğercisi Kazım & İlhan Usta on Osmaniye Caddesi, parallel to Saraçlar Caddesi. This Edirne fixture serves ciğer tava (made from calf’s liver) according to a meticulous recipe that has remained unchanged for more than four decades.

Ciğercisi Kazım & İlhan Usta; Balıkpazarı, Osmaniye Caddesi No: 43, Edirne; P: (0284) 212 12 80

While köfte restaurants are not unique to Edirne, the city does feature one establishment that serves a superlative version of this meatball dish. Tahmis Köftecisi, on a pleasant little square in the city center, has a modest appearance that belies its excellent food. Don’t come here expecting a wide range of dishes to choose from: Tahmis’s menu, featuring little more than köfte and some accompanying dishes (soup, piyaz, künefe) is literally printed on the side of its napkin-holders. Nonetheless, their perfectly-cooked köfte is – in the author’s opinion – the best in Turkey.

Tahmis Köftecisi; Sabuni Mahallesi, Tahmis Çarşısı No: 6, Edirne; P: (0284) 213 30 92

How to get to Edirne: Car (D100 or TEM highway); Bus (frequent departures by Metro as well as other companies);

To the south of Istanbul, accessible by bus and fast ferry, is the medium-sized city of Bursa. Like Edirne, which it preceded as the capital of the Ottoman Empire, this is a city rich in history, and is still important today as a center of Turkey’s automotive and textile industries. While you should reserve plenty of time on your day-trip to see the major sites of Bursa (the Ulu Cami, the Koza Han and İpek Han, the Yeşil Cami and Yeşil Türbe, etc.), a visit would not be complete without a stop at the historic Kebapçı İskender. For those who have never tried it before, İskender kebap is a rich, heavy dish of sliced döner with browned butter, yogurt, and tomato sauce. While many eateries in Turkey use words like “İskender,” “Bursa,” etc., in their names, this restaurant, dating back to 1867, was founded by İskender İskenderoğlu, the creator of İskender kebap. (It is currently run by his grandson Yavuz İskenderoğlu.) As at Tahmis Köftecisi, the menu offerings are limited here, consisting of a few different varieties of İskender kebap, plus şıra (grape juice) and Kemalpaşa tatlısı, but this is the genuine article – and it’s good. You can order your İskender kebap in regular or extra-sized portions, and can also order it eti bol – with pieces of beef added to the slices of lamb döner.

Kebapçı Yavuz İskenderoğlu İskender; Ünlü Cadde No: 7, Şehir Merkezi, Bursa; P: (0224) 221 46 15

How to get to Bursa: Car; Fast ferry from Kadıköy or Yenikapı (http://www.ido.com.tr/); Bus (frequent departures by all major companies)

Saffron is infamous for being the world’s most expensive spice—and with good reason. Growing saffron is quite demanding and arduous: saffron crocuses are planted between 15th of August and 15th of September; they blossom between 15th of September and 15th of November, and must be picked before sunrise within three days of blossoming. The spice is used in a variety of dishes, most famous one being the saffron rice. Another well-known use for saffron is in a Turkish dessert called zerde.

Ingredients:

1 pinch saffron

1 tablespoon rosewater

4 cups milk

¼ cup rice

1 cup water

Pine nuts and raisons, for garnish

For the thickener:

1 ½ tablespoon rice

6 tablespoon cornstarch

2 egg yolks

¾ cups milk

Preparation:

1. Moisten saffron in rosewater until it begins to dissolve and change color.

2. In a pot, bring milk to the boil and add the rosewater and saffron mixture and then the sugar.

3. Remove any foreign objects from the rice and soak in water for 15 minutes. Drain and rinse well.

4. In a separate bowl, boil the rice in 1 cup of water. When the water has been absorbed and the rice has become a bit soft and mushy, add the hot milk and rosewater mixture. Simmer on low heat for a few minutes.

5. In a separate bowl, whisk rice flour, cornstarch, egg yolks and milk and add to the pot and simmer for an additional five minutes.

6. Pour into individual serving bowls, allow to cool and refrigerate.

7. Garnish with pine nuts and raisons and serve.

The event will be held in Istanbul between 25^th and 30^th of October at Sinan Erdem Spor Salonu. The championships will consist of matches between the eight best women’s singles players as well as the four best women’s doubles teams from an initial group of 52 players. The total prize money for the tournament will be an unprecedented 4.5 million USD.

Seven out of eight participants of singles and all four of the doubles have already been qualified. Caroline Wozniaki, Maria Sharapova, Petra Kvitova, Victoria Azarenka, Li Na, Vera Zvonareva, and Samantha Stosur will play the singles matches. Peschke & Srebotnik, Huber & Raymond, Dulko & Pennetta, and King & Shvedova will play the doubles matches.

Istanbul has been hosting many prestigious sports events, from basketball and football to tennis. In fact, WTA International Tournament was held in Istanbul consecutively between 2005 and 2010. By the looks of it, Istanbul will continue to be a meeting point for tennis fans as the WTA Championships will be held in Istanbul in the following two years.

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Sinan Erdem Spor Salonu;Ataköy 4. Kısım Sonu, Bakırköy; P: (0212) 559 09 14

Ingredients

For the sandwich:

- Flat and round peasant bread

- 1 bouquet of rocket

For the chicken:

- 1 kg. chicken (free-range)

- 1 onion (large)

- 2 bay leaves

- 1 carrot

- 1 leek

- 1 clove

- 1 sprig of fresh oregano

- Salt

- Black peppercorns

- 2.5 l. water

For the sauce:

- 200 gr. stale bread (to make breadcrumbs)

- 500 gr. walnuts

- 3 cloves of garlic

- 60 ml. vinegar

- 3-5 dried tomatoes

- 3 gr. coriander seeds

- 2-3 sprigs of fresh coriander

Preparation

Chicken

1. Clean the chicken. Make sure no red spots or internal organs are left, as this will blur the color of the bouillon.

2. Place the chicken in a pot after cleaning thoroughly.

3. Put the sliced onion, bay leaves, carrot, leek, clove, and fresh oregano in the pot.

4. Add some salt and black peppercorns.

5. Add enough water to cover the chicken. (The 2.5-liter indication in the ingredients list can change according to the size of your chicken.)

Note: It is best if your free-range chicken is fat. As this recipe doesn’t include any oil, it is easy for the dish to turn tasteless, whilst a fat chicken gives the dish a nice flavor. The chicken bouillon that is being prepared now will be used in the recipe later on; therefore, it is better to cook it with a minimum amount of water, which will allow the bouillon to get a more concentrated flavor.

Sauce

1. While the chicken is cooking, put the bread in the oven at 100-120°C for 20 to 25 minutes; then put it in the food processor to make breadcrumbs.

2. After placing the walnuts in the oven at 150°C for 5 minutes, pound the walnuts with a mortar and pestle set. The pounding will also release the oil from the walnuts, which will add a rich flavor to the chicken.

3. To enhance the flavor of coriander, heat the coriander seeds in a pan on low-heat.

4. Pound the garlic with a pinch of salt.

5. After having prepared all the ingredients, take a look at the chicken. Chances are it hasn’t cooked properly yet. A free-range chicken has more muscles than a regular chicken, as it is free to move around. Even though this increases the cooking time, you’ll get a more flavorful chicken. It takes nearly 2 hours for a free-range chicken over 1 kg to cook properly.

6. Once the chicken is done, take it off the heat and put it aside to let it cool.

7. Pour the chicken bouillon through the sifter to separate the vegetables, and place the chicken in a bowl that will allow it to cool down faster.

8. Once the chicken has cooled down, cut the chicken in pieces, and remove the cartilage and skin as these create an unpleasant feeling in the mouth.

9. Mix the walnuts, coriander seeds, garlic, and breadcrumbs in the food processor.

10. Then, add the dried tomatoes, vinegar, and fresh coriander (if you like) to the food processor and mix again.

11. Carefully add the chicken bouillon to the mixture, which should have a paste-like consistency. While adding the bouillon, make sure that the mixture doesn’t get too watery. All you need is enough bouillon to cover the chicken pieces. Also make sure that the paste doesn’t remain too solid, because you want the flavors to mix well. Keep in mind that the breadcrumbs will continue to soak up the bouillon, so the dish will be drier when served.

12. Now, add the chicken pieces to the mixture and mix well. The coriander gives freshness to the dish, while the dried tomatoes add some sweetness. Don’t serve the dish immediately; let flavors to mix properly. You’ll get a better result if you leave it in the fridge for half a day.

Sandwich

1.For the sandwich, slice the bread in eight triangular pieces.

2.Cut each slice in half and warm both sides of the bread in the oven or on a pan. Take a good amount of the chicken mixture and spread it over the bread, place some rocket leaves on top as a finishing touch, and top it off with another slice of bread. Your sandwich is now ready to serve.

Disney on Ice: Princesses and Heroes

Wouldn’t your child love the chance to see their favorite Disney characters in the flesh? The entire Disney crew from Mickey Mouse to Cinderella is coming to Istanbul for a magical acrobatic show. Make sure you get your tickets from www.biletix.com as soon as possible! For more info, click here.

Where: Ora Arena

When: October 8,9,12,13,14,15,16

How much: 112 TL (ice zone), 95 TL, 78.50 TL, 61.50 TL, 44.75 TL

Paris Sirki

The Paris Circus is in Istanbul! Take your kid to watch a performance that will include jugglers, acrobatic shows, clowns, magicians, trapeze shows, and exciting fire shows as well as tigers, zebras, and donkeys. For more info, click here.

Where:Via/Port Outlet Shopping

When: October 3-16

How much: 39 TL; 33.50 TL; 28 TL; 22.50 TL

Who is Rozit?

Rozit is a 27 year-old Istanbul native who has been working as a furniture designer in New York for the past five years. She knew from a very young age that she wanted to become a designer and honed her craft in art studios during grade school and high school, and at summer programs at Pratt and the prestigious Rhode Island School of Design (RISD). She credits the rigorous undergraduate program at RISD (especially its initial “foundation year”) with giving her invaluable hands-on training, as well as teaching her to think in a structured way.

Her award-winning work

Rozit won Interior Design Magazine’s “Best Product of the Year Award” for her Melina Dresser (for Modernlink) and her OSS Seating Unit (for Dune), in November of 2006 and 2008 respectively. One of Rozit’s most innovative designs, the “Spiral Table” was showcased during the International Contemporary Furniture Fair in New York in 2011 at an offsite venue. Her work has been written about in Domino, Dwell, Elle Décor, IDMagazine, Interior Design, and the New York Times.

What is she doing now?

In addition to her tumbler stool project, Rozit is currently commissioned by high-profile interior design offices for furniture consultation and custom design work. She is now working on the interior decoration of a number of summer houses in the Hamptons as well as a townhouse in Soho that she describes as “modern but glamorous.”

Rozit’s Istanbul

Every time Rozit visits Istanbul—which she does approximately every three months—she is struck by the changes it has undergone. It always appears cleaner, with more roads, more parks, and more greenery. The longer-term changes in the city are harder for Rozit to put into words: in her opinion, “what has changed is me.”

Here is what Rozit had to say about the city that inspires her:

What is your earliest memory of Istanbul?

A ferry ride to Büyükada...the moment when the boat hit the shore.

What are your favorite neighborhoods in Istanbul?

Galata, Cihangir, and Şişhane. They’re so old, with so much history. Also Balat and Hasköy—these places will be the next Cihangir, in my opinion.

What’s your favorite place to eat breakfast?

Bebek Kahve.

Lunch?

Atik Büfe in Nişantaşı.

Dinner?

Münferit—they have such an interesting selection of food.

Brunch?

Kale, by the water...plus all those new cafes in Cihangir. They have a more “brunchy” feel.

What food do you miss the most when away from Istanbul?

Tost(grilled cheese sandwich). And simit (Turkish bagel).

Favorite view in the city?

Crossing the Haliç Bridge. And the view from Hamdi Restaurant.

Favorite getaway location in Turkey?

Bozcaada, but I’ve also heard great things about Cunda Adası. Haven't been yet.

Favorite day-trip location in Istanbul?

Büyükada.

Favorite bar?

Lokal. You can sit outside if you want, but the interior is also full of history. The architecture, the tiles – everything about it is great. So is the food.

Favorite meyhane?

Mekan...they have Turkish, Jewish, and Armenian food.

Favorite Turkish designer?

I don’t really like picking favorites, but I likeAUTOBAN's style.There are a lot of young designers, too, who people aren’t aware of. We must promote younger talent. There’s amazing work coming from them that needs to be recognized.

What do you miss most about Istanbul in general?

The connection between people.

Let them be loud:If your kid is giving off musical genius signals, nurture their musical talent with private piano or violin classes by Baby Symphony instructors.

Let them run wild: If your kid won’t sit still, then let them spend their energy at My Gym. At My Gym, it’s not about running on the treadmill or learning the rules of basketball and sticking to them. It’s about getting kids active without them even realizing that they are, in fact, exercising. And how do they do it? They just play active games that develop their muscles.

Let them be messy: Head to LOLA to indulge your kids in a variety of creative activities from mask-making to building vehicles with recycled materials. They will do all this while speaking English and improving their language skills.

Let them be the drama queen: Get your kids to learn acting while having fun—all for a good cause. Speech Bubbles is a theater group run by volunteers that aims to teach kids English through the use of drama. The group performs a musical production each year in order to raise money for underprivileged children in Turkey. All the proceeds from their performances are donated to charities that support children’s education. (If you want to get a sense of what they do, watch their latest performance of The Witches of Oz at Profilo Shopping Center. The performances will be held on Friday 28th October at 8 pm, Saturday 29th October at 3pm and 7:30pm, and Sunday 30th October at 3pm.)

The sun, the sea, the chlorinated pool water...they all take their toll on our hair. It’s time to get ready for fall and get your hair back in shape.

1. Get a good hair cut. If you’re complaining about split, dry, or frizzy ends, a good hair cut will resolve all these issues. It’s always fun to experiment with new styles, so chop away. We suggest you head to Erdem Kıramer,HH Hair Design, or Aveda. If you’re after a budget option, try Nehir Kuaför—it’s a tiny, humble mahalle kuaförü (neighborhood hairdresser). We can’t vouch for their beauty treatments, but Savaş (owner and hairdresser) is a fantastic hairdresser, especially when it comes to short hair styles.

2. Bring back the color. If your hair color seems dull or on the verge of boring, color it once again with a fall-appropriate color. Check out our listings to find a hairdresser that suits you.

3. Restore Shine. Apply a DIY hair mask. Here is what you need: small bottle of sesame oil or jojoba oil (the size of an index finger), almond oil (50cc), and a kind of leave-in conditioners of your choice. First add half a bottle of the conditioner in a container/bowl, then add the oils and mix thoroughly. Cover your hair (when it’s dry) with the mixture for 1-3 hours. Wash away with shampoo. Do this once a week for as long as you need to. You can get the oils at Zencefil Aktar or Arifoğlu. The leave-in conditioners are easy to get from any major supermarket.

4. Moisturize, moisturize, moisturize. Kiehls’s Olive Fruit Oil Series and Schwarzkopfs’s BC Moisture Kick Series will definitely do the work.

The Italian chef Bruno Ruffini, from ALMA: La ScuolaInternazionaledi Cucina Italiana, will be running three separate one-day workshops entitled Mutfaktaki İtalyan (Italian food in the kitchen.) Each day’s workshop will feature a different menu, including such popular Italian recipes as pesto sauce and lasagna. Those who wish to learn the basics of Italian culinary technique – how to cook pasta al dente,how to make a perfectly textured risotto, how to structure a multi-course meal so that each dish complements the others – should not miss these informative (and tasty) workshops.

When: September 14, 15, 17

Where: Mutfak Sanatları Akademisi

Laurent Greco, the founder of the Paris Bar Academy and creater of the magazine Cocktailzone, will give a workshop on “mixology.” (The name means exactly what it sounds like – the science, or art, of making drinks.) Greco is internationally recognized as an expert in the field of mixology and is eager to share the secrets of this alchemical profession. In Greco’s workshop you’ll be able to learn how to prepare some of his specialty cocktails like “French Way” and “Mojito Passion.” The following day will feature a special party, the Lucca Mixology Session by Perrier (by invitation only) at which Greco will mix Perrier-based alcoholic concoctions for attendees.

When: September 13 (workshop), September 14 (by invitation only)

Where: Mutfak Sanatları Akademisi (workshop), Lucca Bar (Lucca Mixology Session)

Finally, there will be a special two-day culinary workshop – with participation by invitation only – by the famous chef Carlo Cracco, the owner of Cracco Restaurant in Milan (regularly featured on San Pellegrino’s Top 50 Restaurants List.) Trained at the Istituto Professionale Alberghiero, as well as at the Hotel Paris and Lucas Carton in France, Cracco has been active as a chef since the 1980s, and his restaurant has had the honor of receiving two stars from Michelin. Well-versed both in French and in his native Italian cuisine, Cracco’s specialties include various risotti and dishes made with white truffles.

When: September 6, 7

Where: Mutfak Sanatları Akademisi

Belly dancing is an art which has developed in several countries, over many years, and is fundamentally a celebration of the seductive power of the female form.

The allure of belly dancing has always been powerful, seducing figures of authority from Ottoman sultans to current heads of state, but its widespread appeal has never been more evident than today. Walk into any self-respecting dance studio in London or New York, and you can be sure of finding a belly-dancing class, perhaps even a type of fusion such as a samba- or salsa-belly dancing mix. These have been inspired in part by the dancing styles of international stars like Shakira, who has pioneered a concoction of hip twists and tummy undulations that treads a fine line between Latin and Middle Eastern sensuality (in keeping with Shakira’s Spanish-Lebanese heritage). There are also striking similarities between bangra, or Bollywood dancing, and belly dancing, particularly the snaking movements of the hands. While the Indian style seems more measured and intended to appeal aesthetically, and the Middle Eastern style more ostentatiously seductive, the commonalities between the two have resulted in some inspired sequences that incorporate both forms.

Broadly speaking, belly dancing involves isolating and moving particular parts of the body with crucial support from core muscles in the torso. The moves that occur most commonly in a performance are the shimmering vibration of the belly or shoulders, hip juts, and undulations of the belly or torso; the most striking instance of this last move is the jerky rotation of the shoulders to imitate the movements of someone riding a camel. This is all heightened by other elements, such as snaking movements with the waist and arms, playful hide-and-seek games with veils, clicking the fingers, and tapping bell-laden anklets. The sequence of moves in any particular dance is up to the individual performer and will be informed not only by the norms of her region but also by her personal style.

To pedants who insist on the existence of a superior, “pure” or “traditional” mode of belly dancing, I say this: it is an art which has developed in several countries, over many years, and is fundamentally a celebration of the seductive power of the female form. Therefore, to quibble over the authenticity of a particular style is pointless and contrary to the spontaneous and creative nature of the dance. There are, of course, elements which unite (and differentiate) Lebanese, Turkish, Armenian, and Egyptian variations of the dance, and there are costumes and classic moves that are unique to belly dancing. However, its versatility and popularity across the world are testaments to the chameleonic quality of its hypnotic charm.

In Turkey, belly dancing in any form is immensely popular, and Istanbul is famous for admittedly touristy shows which are nevertheless spectacularly good fun. Turkish belly dancers favor a particularly raunchy outfit: a traditional long skirt cut to the hip to reveal the legs, spangly stilettos, and plunging sequined bras. This style was popularized in the early 20^th century by the misguided, stereotypical image Hollywood had of “Eastern Belles” — an image that actually had more in common with Western burlesque and vaudeville dancers, and certainly not much in common with Middle Eastern belles of the time. Nevertheless, the style is still popular in Turkey and Lebanon. In Egypt, by contrast, it has been illegal to perform with a bare midriff since the 1950s. Consequently, the raqs sharqidancers, as they are known there, usually wear a figure-hugging one-piece gown with strategically placed patches of flesh-colored cloth. None of that nonsense in Turkey – in combination with the raunchy dress style, Turkish dancers usually have a flirty, playful act and single out members of the audience for attention, rather than giving the more formal performance commonly found elsewhere. This is probably due to the relative Westernization of Turkey and its more relaxed attitude toward the public appearance of women. However, one can’t forget the tradition of the Ottoman harem, where belly dancing was one of many skills learned by the resident concubines to ensnare the affections of the sultan. In that cutthroat world, if your hip shimmies weren’t up to snuff, you lost out to your more supple or voluptuous competitors. Similarly, the most alluring dancers today attract the most loyal audiences; some things never change.

Most Turks seem to be born with the instinct to dance. Regardless of age or agility, hips will start swaying and fingers clicking as soon as a drum starts up a suggestive beat. In these situations, there is often the tinkle of ice in a rakı glass in the background, and the best place to catch some impromptu local dancing is in a meyhane(tavern) or fish restaurant in Kumkapı. In this tucked-away area on the southern promontory of the Golden Horn, the rakı and good times flow as gypsy musicians wander amidst the outdoor tables, and diners get up to join the dancers to the accompaniment of laughter and song.

Of course, Turkey is famous for the glitzy performances described above, and a night out at a proper belly dancing show is a lot of fun. By far, the best place to go is Al Jamal Badawi, a wonderland of over-the-top opulence and intoxicating kitsch. As you enter, kohl-eyed boys lead you through perfumed drapery and ornate candelabras to the main hall, where dancers perform on a stage illuminated by eerie green lighting. Around the stage, diners watch the shows as they eat meze from mirror-topped tables scattered with rose petals. The dancers are very good. The star of the night is usually an exquisitely lithe male dancer, dressed almost exactly the same as the girls with the addition of glittery body paint on his naked torso. One of the best acts is his entrance in the costume of a Rio carnival dancer: a bright orange, wedding cake-shaped hooped skirt which later opens to reveal a girl. She snakes out of her cage to perform a perfectly choreographed duet with her counterpart, to wild applause. The atmosphere is decidedly festive, and in the breaks between acts revelers get up to try out some dancing themselves – reminiscent of the Kumkapı dancers but in very different surroundings!

You can find a similar style of belly-dancing in more restrained and less hedonistic surroundings at Nomads, just across the road from the glamorous nightclub Reina in Ortaköy. The interior is less sprawling and more imposing than Al Jamal, with dark, polished walls illuminated by perfectly spaced lamps and no drapery or faux candelabra frippery. The waiters are make-up-free and disappointingly devoid of exotic scarves. The dancers perform in a central space by the bar rather than on a stage, and are a sideshow rather than the main event of the evening. There is the same variety of choreographed troupes with matching outfits, and a solo male star with perfect control but rather less seductive appeal than the belle of the ball at Al Jamal. All in all, this is a somewhat half-hearted attempt at belly dancing, and falls into the embarrassing gap between a light-hearted homage to belly dancing and a performance that takes it seriously as an art form. It would be perfect for those who don’t want to commit themselves to the unadulterated silliness of Al Jamal but still want to see some belly dancing on the sly. The prices are just as high as Al Jamal’s, but the night less full of fun. Take your pick.

If you leave a show feeling fired up and inspired to master the mesmeric moves yourself, the best place to go for lessons is the Turkish Belly Dance Academy in Osmanbey. Workshops are arranged on a regular basis, but it is worth paying for private lessons (a very reasonable 50TL for an hour of one-on-one tutelage). These are ideal if you are shy of learning in a group context, or simply want to work at your own pace and help choreograph a personal routine to whip out at the next party you attend (the more straight-laced the better). A great place to attend classes is the Depo Dans Café in Cihangir. This has a very relaxed feel and offers classes in all kinds of dance, including samba, salsa, zumba (a current Latin fusion craze), tango, hip hop, and Latin social dance classes (basically a chance to practice your moves in a festive context, with like-minded people). The Dans Cafe is ideal if you prefer to learn the art of belly dancing in a more relaxed and sociable setting, with a group of people who are at your same level.

To outfit yourself for best effect, search for sensational outfits in the Grand Bazaar. Be warned – there will be a fair amount of badly made “novelty” costumes, but if you head down the smaller side streets of the bazaar and look out for shops displaying good-quality cotton harem pants in the front, chances are that there will be some good belly-dancing costumes somewhere in stock (ask for “oryantal” to show you are a serious aficionado). To save time and get straight to the professional-quality stock, head to Al Jamal, not to be confused with the dining/show venue described above (the outfit shop is on Taşkışla Caddesi, while the show venue is in Beşiktaş, on Süleyman Seba Caddesi). The clothing shop is an Aladdin’s cave of sequined, glitter-heavy garments in all colors, shapes, and sizes. It’s like the dream walk-in wardrobe of a particularly ostentatious drag queen, and caters to the most outlandish tastes, while also offering more modest pieces for more retiring dancers. Outfits are sold piece by piece, so you can choose each element of your ensemble separately rather than having to choose an entire color-coordinated outfit off the peg. Costumes are on offer for both sexes, so bring along your boyfriend or brother for a particularly ridiculous shopping spree!

If you want music to which you can practice belly dancing at home or merely to bring back nostalgic memories of your Istanbul trip, try the traditional drum beats of “Passion of Percussion”, an album that features slightly modernized versions of the fast, rhythmic drum patterns used in traditional dancing. Otherwise, most upbeat Turkish pop music is highly suitable for belly dancing, and is often the trigger for an ad hoc performance in a party environment. Join the masses in their adoration of Sezen Aksu or Tarkan, the undisputed monarchs of Turkish music. With a glass of rakı and “Şımarık” playing in the background, you’ll be well on your way to a job at Al Jamal.

Pre-planning

Set the date, decide on the number of guests (and don’t forget the size of your garden/balcony when you do so), pick a theme (this will affect your decoration and menu), and decide on your budget.

Invitations

Although not necessary, send out an invitation just for the fun of it. A lot of people use Facebook nowadays. But if you’re feeling slightly old-school, send a card. You can get cool and funky ones from Kağıthane.

The Menu

Go for some easy, no-fuss recipes so that you can spend your time enjoying the company of your guests instead of rushing back and forth to the kitchen. Have a look at our sample menu below, and adjust it to your liking. Alternatively, use a caterer, or cook the main dishes yourself and order appetizers from Şütte, Antre GourmetorCarlotta. For dessert, serve cupcakes, Devil’s Food Cake from Backyard, or ice-cream.

Here is our sample menu:

Panzanella Salad

Souvlaki

Moussaka

Setting

Go for a buffet-style dining if hosting a large number of people. If possible, set the dining table under a large tree for some shade and a romantic feel.

Decoration Ideas

First, decide on a theme (romantic or preppy, rustic or nautical) and color palette (pastel or earth tones). Then, decide on a centerpiece—get creative with something leafy, sandy, or flowery.

To add a festive feeling to your party, hang paper lanterns. Think about the lighting in advance. Use lanterns or candles to lighten up the table. If you go with candles, use jam jars to protect from the summer breeze. Speaking of breeze, to avoid running after flying napkins, use pretty rocks as napkin holders.

Place a big bowl of fresh fruit juice within a bucket of ice to keep things cool without watering down the taste. Place condiments and sauces in small dishes and cups instead of keeping them in their original yet not-so-presentable bottles.

For all your decorating needs, head to Paşabahçe, Habitat, Mudo City, and Dört Mevsim, Zara Home.

Music

Hook up your iPod to your speakers and let the dancing begin. Here is a playlist of our favorite summery songs that you could add to your iPod.

Monday, August 29: Go to Kapalı Çarşı (the Grand Bazaar) and Mısır Çarşısı (the Egyptian or Spice Bazaar) for a day-long shopping spree. Make sure you check out our shopping guides for both bazaars. End the day with a delicious dinner at Hamdi (only about 100 meters away from the entrance of the Egyptian Bazaar). Keep in mind that both bazaars will be closed from Tuesday through Thursday; so if you can’t make it there on Monday, wait until Friday.

Tuesday, August 30: Head to Büyükada to relax and unwind. This is also a great option for families with kids. You can ride donkeys, tour the island on a horse-drawn carriage, climb up to the monastery of Aya Yorgi, or rent a bike. For more detailed info on Büyükada, click here.

Wednesday, August 31: Just because you’re not at a beach town doesn’t mean you can’t enjoy the sun and the sea (or the pool). Grab your iPod, a picnic bag, and your favorite beach read, and take your pick from our article on Istanbul’s Best Beaches and Pools. (Note: All beaches and pools in the article except for Burç Beach and Solar Beach confirmed that they are open during Ramadan.)

Thursday, September 1: Head to the Black Sea Region, where the Marmara Sea and the Black Sea merge, for fantastic views that you can’t see anywhere else in the city. Have some fresh fish and enjoy the sea breeze. For detailed information on how to get there and where to eat, click here. (Note: If you decide to head to the area on Tuesday, keep in mind that Balıkçı Kahraman will be closed that day.)

Friday, September 2: Have an artsy day and go gallery-hopping. You could check out Masum Suretler and The Last Roll of Kodachrome at the Istanbul Museum of Modern Art (yes, it is a museum but it can be a part of your day of gallery-hopping). Afterwards, you could head to İstiklal Caddesi to check out Modern Essays 1: Across the Slope (2008) at SALT and have lunch at the gallery’s restaurant Bistro. (Keep in mind that SALT will be closed from Monday through Wednesday.) For other galleries and museums that are open on Friday, check out the September 2 events in the Agenda.

Apart from its traffic and its crowds, Istanbul—so the argument goes—is a tough place to live for active people due to the city’s lack of places to exercise. But is it really so difficult to keep fit in Istanbul?

Aside from various forms of indoor fitness (yoga, Pilates, fitness training), there are plenty of ways to get out-of-doors exercise in Istanbul. All it takes is some planning and know-how.

Running

In a city with narrow streets and even narrower sidewalks, running is clearly not a practical way to keep fit, unless you can find somewhere without any traffic. The Belgrade Forest is an ideal place to jog, and affords Istanbulites the opportunity of enjoying the outdoors without (technically) leaving Istanbul’s city limits. Serious long-distance runners will not want to miss the 33^rd Intercontinental Eurasia Marathon, when you’ll be able to cross the Bosphorus Bridge on foot.

But then, if you run every day (and most serious runners do) it’s unlikely you can make a daily trip to Sarıyer or wait for a once-a-year event like a marathon in order to keep fit. If you’re lucky enough to live near a park (e.g. Yıldız Parkı in Beşiktaş or Fethipaşa Korusu in Üsküdar) then you can simply go there to run; if it has a running track (for example the newly-restored Yoğurtçu Parkı in Kadıköy), so much the better. The stretches of the Bosphorus with pedestrian promenades (e.g. from Arnavutköy to Bebek) are also perfect for running. For those on the Asian side, in addition to the coast between Harem and Salacak, there are promenades on the Marmara seacoast in Kadıköy, Moda, and Kalamış, plus a miles-long stretch from Fenerbahçe all the way to Bostancı.

Bicycling

What is true of the average big city is even truer of Istanbul, where hilly terrain and frantic drivers combine to make bike-riding a suicidal enterprise. Luckily, there are places where you can ride a bike in Istanbul without taking your life into your hands. Aside from the seaside promenades mentioned above, there are the Princes' Islands, where cars (aside from emergency vehicles) are prohibited by law. Büyükada and Heybeliada in particular are excellent places to go bicycling, with their extensive network of dirt roads. You can take along your bicycle on the ferry; alternatively, there are numerous places on the islands offering bicycles for rent. If you can, go off-season and/or during the week, and you may have the island (almost) to yourself.

Soccer (Football)

Go to any patch of greenery in Istanbul and you'll probably see some people messing around with a soccer ball. For a serious amateur soccer match, Istanbulites prefer to rent a halı saha (small soccer field). Unlike the impromptu soccer games you may be accustomed to, a certain amount of planning has to go into an amateur match in Istanbul. Most municipalities will have a halı saha for rent; just ask locals where to find one. (If you live in Kadıköy, for example, the Moda Halı Saha near Moda Teras is a good place to play.)

Swimming

The Bosphorus, with its cold water and strong current (not to mention passing oil tankers), is not necessarily the best place to swim. Swimming off the Princes’ Islands (or on Asian-side beaches like Caddebostan Plajı) is possible; while the Sea of Marmara is not totally unpolluted, if you’re just wading into the water, as many do, this is unlikely to be a big problem. For more pristine (but much colder) waters, go to Kilyos or Şile on the European and Asian Black Sea coasts, respectively. Be aware that both places have strong undertows – so do not swim alone and always stay close to the shore.

If you prefer to swim in a pool, many upscale hotels have facilities available for daily use by visitors. Alternately—if you would like a more affordable way to swim in chlorinated water—there are a number of outdoor water parks on the outskirts of the city, e.g. Aquamarine in Büyükçekmece and Aqua Dolphin in Esenkent. Try not to go on a summer weekend when the weather’s good or you may have to elbow your way past hordes of teenaged boys.

Windsurfing

Good upper-body strength, a decent sense of balance, a certain amount of adventurousness...if you have all these things then you might want to try windsurfing. The Suadiye Windsurf Club in the Asian-side neighborhood of the same name offers windsurfing lessons at reasonable prices (240 TL for five hour-long lessons.) For those who are reasonably coordinated, five hours should be more than enough to master the rudiments of windsurfing. As with learning to ride a bike, there’s that wonderful and rewarding moment to look forward to when you manage to stay upright for 30 seconds. The club also rents boards (20-40 TL daily) to those who already know how to windsurf.

Rowing on the Golden Horn

If you'd like to get some exercise on the water but don't want to get wet in the process, then rowing might be a good choice for you. Rowing works nearly all the muscle groups in your body, making it a superb way to keep in shape. You don't have to be an undergraduate training for the Oxford-Cambridge Boat Race to get into the sport, either. Istanbul's Golden Horn is free of the strong current found in the Bosphorus, and is thus a very suitable venue for a beginner who wants to learn how to row. The Forza Rowing Club, located in Kasımpaşa, offers lessons at discounted prices and is popular with both sexes. Just picture it: rowing on the Golden Horn at sunrise, with seagulls flying overhead, and theSüleymaniyeMosquelooming in the background...what are you waiting for?

Walking up hills

This last item is not meant to be facetious. Whether or not the original Istanbul really consisted of seven hills, like Rome, the city is indeed very hilly. If you happen to live in a neighborhood like Üsküdar, Çukurcuma/Cihangir, or Beşiktaş, then you probably already know that going to work or just walking to the grocery store can involve a steep climb. Instead of taking the Tünel subway up the hill from Karaköy, or the funicular from Kabataş to Taksim, why not just walk? While it might be exhausting at first, you’ll soon find that all this hill-walking will burn off tons of calories, improve your circulation, and make you pleasantly tired at the end of the day. After all, your legs don’t know whether you’re walking on a city street, an indoor treadmill, or a mountain path somewhere in the Great Turkish Outdoors. Whoever said Istanbul wasn’t a good place to stay fit?

The Hakuna Matata team, made of nine Turks, is taking on Mt. Kilimanjaro in Tanzania on 28^th of August to raise money for underprivileged students in Turkey. They aim to raise 28,000TL (roughly equal to 15,655 USD or 10,877 Euros) and they’ve already managed to raise 17,774 TL.

Who are they?

Having lived in the US, UK, and Canada for over 6 years, Ayşe, Begüm, Doruk, Itır, Jean, Selin, Şirin, and Volkan have assimilated to the custom of philanthropic activities, and decided to dedicate their climb to a charity organization that they personally care a lot about. They will be hiking for a Turkish organization called Adım Adım (which translates roughly into “Step by Step”).

Why Adım Adım?

Adım Adım is a young organization founded by college students and young professionals who are involved in a plethora of activities and are united by the sentiment that “there has to be more to life than work” (in Stacie Orrico’s wise words). Adım Adım aims to raise awareness and funds for students who continue their education in very rough conditions. The organization raises money for young adults, who are receiving financial aid, and allows them to be more active outside of the classroom through extracurricular activities. The organization is dedicated to empowering the Turkish youth, and raising young adults who have a strong sense of self.

What does Hakuna Matata aim to achieve?

Through this cause, they are hoping to help cultivate a youth who have a better understanding of what being a citizen of the world means, as they have learned to appreciate during their time living abroad. With donations, they are trying to give these young adults a voice and a brighter future.

What can you do?

They are kindly asking for a donation of any size that you are comfortable with to support their cause. Every dollar, every cent helps turn a person’s life around—which will also benefit the future of Turkey. If you would like to, you can make your donation through the Turkish Philanthropy Fund’s website: http://www.tpfund.org/TOG/default.aspx?projectid=4965942820129494730.

For more information about the team, their progress, and training, check out http://hakunamatatakili.tumblr.com/ or follow them through Twitter @hakunamatataTR.

Breakfast:Mangerie, Van Kahvaltı Evi, Kaymakçı Pando

Lunch : Hacı Salih Lokantası, Hacı Abdullah Lokantası, Hünkar, Karadeniz Pidecisi

Dinner: Karaköy Lokantası and Maya Lokanta

For meat: Günaydın and Kanatçı Haydar

Classic Turkish food:

Z: “My mother’s eggplant pilaf, meatballs, and shepherd’s salad”

E: ayran aşı (a regional cold summer soup hailing from the eastern city of Van)

Turkish ingredient: Oregano and sundried red chili peppers

Where they shop: Kastamonu Pazarı on Sundays (for regional mushrooms), Perşembe Pazarı on the Asian Side, Kolaylar Manavı in Arnavutköy

Favorite Dish at Backyard and Nuteras:

Z: “I suggest mücver (baked vegetable patty) and scallops at Backyard.”

E: “I love trying a range of flavors so I suggest ordering appetizers to share.”

Located in the Bebeköy neighborhood of Etiler, Backyard is a restaurant/café/relaxationcenter with a truly your-own-backyard-like kind of atmosphere. The large, green backyard, the cushions, the lounge chairs, the patio all add up to create one of the most chill-out environments in the midst of the city. Oh, and did we mention the breathtaking view?

In this warm and inviting place, the menu (which ranges from Turkish classics to international fare) focuses on natural and organic produce, and many of the ingredients are sourced from co-owner Zeynep Moroğlu’s family farm in Çatalca.

We started this week with a breakfast at Backyard and got to meet the creators behind this gem of a place. Just like the place, owners and chefs Zeynep Moroğlu and Esra Muslu are quite the warm and laid-back people. Once you meet them, it becomes clear how Backyard was created: from the ideals and principles that both Zeynep and Esra live by.

So here is an insider’s look into Zeynep, Esra, Backyard, and this whole organic deal.

Zeynep’s food journey began as a result of coincidence. She had always loved eating but didn’t necessarily grow up with a love of cooking. While she was working in finance in the States, her father fell ill and she wanted to offer him something other than a get-better meal and dived into the kitchen to create something different. And that, Zeynep says, marks the day her food journey began.

After spending several years living in the States, she came back to Turkey and became a partner at the first branch of the House Cafe chain. By then, her love affair with food had taken a serious turn, and she went to San Francisco to study baking and pastry.

A former theater make-up artist, Esra’s story is similar to Zeynep’s in the sense that her food journey began as a result of coincidence as well. Esra spent three months in London, where her homestay family’s life revolved around food and cooking. This rubbed off on Esra, and what began as a hobby later became a passion and profession. She went to Melbourne to study the art of cooking and later returned to Istanbul.

Having come back home from two far corners of the world, Esra and Zeynep met and decided to work together and created Backyard.

Having spent such considerable time abroad, we wondered what they love about Turkish culture and Zeynep replied: the concept of family, the close-knit relationships, and the values that are still going strong. Even if they chose to leave Turkey for other countries, they came back having gained new perspectives and opened up their horizons. Now, they are paying it forward.

Zeynep explains that they learned to respect nature when abroad, and they’re trying to continue to do so here. An example of this is the organic bazaar held at Backyard every Sunday around 4pm. Going on until around 6pm, the bazaar is made up of a small stand where they sell what they grow at their garden as well as at Zeynep’s family farm in Çatalca. The products on sale include fresh spices, beans, a variety of cheese, jams, freshly-squeezed fruit juices, freshly-baked breads, and much more.

But it’s not just on Sundays that you can buy the goodies at Backyard. Their breads and pastry products, which are also sold at other cafes like Pop Up and Fudu, are also on sale on a daily basis.

With cooking as their pride, passion, and profession, we wondered whether the duo cooks at home. They both smile at the question, nodding no. And it’s not because they get tired of cooking, they just don’t have the time.

That’s probably because when they’re not working in the kitchen, they’re busy coming up with new ideas and getting inspired for new dishes. So we ask them who or what their muses are. They are big fans of the owners of River Café in London. They closely follow the likes of Anna Olson and Jamie Oliver. They also embark on gourmet holidays to Spain (Donostia-San Sebastián), England (London), France, the Far East, and Africa (Morocco).

When asked about the books that keep making their way to their nightstands, Zeynep picks Nick Malgieri and Andrew Whitley’s books, while Esra swears by Gordon Ramsey’s books and Grand Livre De Cuisine by Alain Ducasse. They both love A Day at elBulli by Ferran Adrià, Albert Adrià, and Juli Soler, which is a photographic journey into how a restaurant functions.

Speaking of journeys, Backyard is about to take a new turn come fall. The patio will be covered on all sides to become a restaurant, while the indoor dining area will turn into a neighborhood bar where customers will be able to enjoy a glass of wine by the fireplace after work. Keep following us to get the scoop on what will happen at Backyard.

Bodrum, Çeşme, Fethiye...all popular summer destinations in Turkey, famed for sun, sea and the occasional concentration of overly inebriated Brits on holiday. Istanbul is not the first place that springs to mind as an oasis of tranquility in the heat of August. However, if you know where to go, summer is actually the ideal time to explore Istanbul’s many outdoor attractions and to appreciate it as a “hotspot” in the best possible sense of the word.

Whether you are a tourist faced with the prospect of stifling lines and high season prices, or a local Istanbulite fed up with sitting in an overheated car in traffic for hours, my advice is the same: get out of the city center, forget the crowded alleys of Asmalımescit, and explore further afield for the best of summer Istanbul.

Let’s presume you have a whole weekend to play with. On a Saturday morning, the sun is shining and the Bosphorus glitters with promise: head down to Bebek Iskelesi (ferry stop in Bebek), take a stroll past the boats for hire and pick one that takes your fancy. If you have a group of friends with you, you can hire a boat for the day (or an afternoon) fairly cheaply. The route is up to you—you can meander up to Rumeli Hisarı (Rumeli Fortress), admire the Ottoman mansions on both sides of the Bosphorus, or even anchor somewhere off either coast and have a swim for a couple of hours. It is a mini-personalized cruise of the Bosphorus with all the attractions of a private party: bring your iPod and create a boating playlist for your afternoon of hedonism. You can consume the food and drinks included in the package or opt out in favor of your own cocktail choices and party food, creating your own waterborne lunch party. (This also allows you to avoid the extortionate and overcrowded restaurants on the seafront.) Depending on the size of your party, how long you want the boat and what type of boat it is, rental costs could be as little as 30 TL per person (for a big boat hired for 5 hours), or more for a smaller group. It is worth going there a few days before, and calling the number displayed on the side of the boat for a preliminary haggle. The hard work will pay off later, when you are basking in the afternoon sun, contemplating the choice between a dip in the sea or a variation on your current cocktail…

Early evening arrives all too soon, as you stumble off the boat and start thinking about dinner. If you want to save yourself a drive in the evening weekend traffic, stay in the area and treat yourself to one of the excellent local restaurants, such as the Sunset Bar and Grill up the road in Etiler. Sunset’s menu is unique in its inclusion of Japanese specialties, including sushi, and the restaurant has a breathtaking view. The outdoor bar/dining area transforms into a dance floor later in the night when a DJ arrives with a playlist of unashamed feel-good disco classics.

If you are feeling flush and want to experience the best of glitzy Istanbul nightlife, however, you must tear yourself away from Sunset to the elevated environs of Anjelique, not far away in Ortaköy. This, along with Reina, is the socialite club of choice, and not for the shy or retiring – or badly dressed.

If you would prefer a lower-octane night out, jump into a taxi and head to Pera, where you can have a drink at the Pera Palace Hotel or dance at NuTeras next door. This has a similar vibe to Angelique and Reina but is on a smaller scale and less socially intimidating.

Sunday dawns and a hearty brunch is required after your night out. If your priority is the quality and quantity of food, head for Namlı Gurme in Karaköy, a splendid delicatessen-diner with a dazzling assortment of breakfast specialties, and much beloved by locals. If you would like a lofty view to accompany your brunch, go for Galata Konak near the Galata Tower, where you can eat on a simple rooftop and drink in the view of the Golden Horn along with your tea.

Now for the day’s activities: a much underrated Istanbul sight is the section of the old city walls found near the Chora Church (worth a visit in itself). The walls are a fascinating piece of history, and climbing up to the top of the tower is an exhilarating challenge, rewarding you with an unparalleled view over much of the European side of Istanbul. I feel bound to warn sufferers of vertigo that this is not the outing for them—the last flight of steps is literally vertical and one’s travel insurance might not look upon any accident with much leniency. However, if you are feeling adventurous it is most definitely worth it. Another bonus is the much-famed Asitane restaurant nearby, just below the wall next to the Chora Church. This place is truly one of a kind, a tour de force of authentic Ottoman cuisine, with exemplary service and a charming garden for summer dining. If this is your last night in Istanbul, there could be no better finale to your trip. If you are lucky enough to live here, you will certainly be coming back.

Pilaf with saffron

Ingredients:

2 cups of rice

50 gr of butter

2 ½ cups of lukewarm water or chicken stock

1 cup of boiled chickpeas

1 teaspoon of saffron or turmeric

1 tea cup of almonds

½ tea cup of currants

½ tea cup of raisins

5-6 dried apricots

1 cinnamon stick

Salt

Preparation:

1. Soak the rice in lukewarm water for half an hour, then drain and wash it.

2. Melt the butter in a pan, and then add the saffron and rice to the pan. Using a wooden spoon, brown the rice for 2-3 minutes.

3. Add 2 ½ cups of lukewarm water. Or, you can also choose to add 2 ½ cups of chicken stock for a more flavorful rice.

4. Add the boiled chickpeas, almonds, currants, raisins, dried apricots, cinnamon stick, and salt.

5. Cook the rice on low heat. Once the rice absorbs the water, turn off the heat, cover the pan with a paper towel, close the lid, and let it sit for a while.

Rose Sherbet

Ingredients:

Leaves of 7 roses (scented, for marmalade)

2 cups of sugar

5 cups of water

2 cinnamon sticks

Juice of half a lemon

Preparation:

1. Rub the rose leaves with 1 cup of sugar, put them in a bowl, and then add the lemon juice. Cover and let it rest in the fridge for 1-2 hours.

2. Add the water, the rest of the sugar, and the cinnamon sticks, and bring to a boil.

3. After it cools down, sieve it and serve it with ice.

Alaçatı has long been a popular destination for windsurfers, but in recent years the town’s abundant charms have also helped transform it into a major tourist destination. This is certainly one of the most tasteful towns in all of Turkey, with its narrow cobbled streets and whitewashed houses, their wooden shutters painted various shades of blue and green, and a wealth of upscale shops and restaurants.

Located on the Çeşme peninsula, less than an hour from Izmir airport, Alaçatı’s star has risen as a tourist destination over the past decade. The town was originally settled by Greek migrants from nearby islands in the 1800s, who were brought over to drain the swamps in order to curb the spread of malaria. These Greeks settlers called the town “Agrilia”, and established vineyards and grape-processing factories. Many Muslims from Thessaloniki also settled here following the population exchange in the 1920s. However, most of the old stone buildings were eventually abandoned, and the town became an under-developed backwater.

This all changed with the opening of the Taş Hotel in 2001, which took an old crumbling Greek home and turned it into an upmarket boutique hotel. This project was a great success, and since then many others have followed suit. Today you will find dozens of boutique hotels housed in both new and renovated buildings. Many of the newer and slightly larger hotels are located on the outskirts of town, just a short walk from the center. They often have swimming pools, exposed stone walls, and lovely courtyard gardens. Alaçatı hotels are famed for their delicious breakfast spreads, which include tomatoes, olives, local cheeses, honey and clotted cream, homemade jams, and a selection of fresh breads and pastries.

Unlike many other resort towns in Turkey, Alaçatı is not flooded with foreign tourists. The area is a bit pricier than other popular tourist destinations, as it is not aimed at low-end packaged tourists, but at those who are looking for quality and are willing to pay for it. The majority of visitors are well-heeled Turks, mostly from Istanbul and Izmir. They come here either for a weekend getaway or for the entire summer. Many new holiday homes have also been built to accommodate this demand. That said, some discerning foreign tourists have recently started to discover Alaçatı.

Although it gets very hot here during the summer months, the constant wind, for which the city is known, keeps things cool. Of course, one of the main draws remains the Alaçatı beach, which is located in a small bay about four kilometers from town, and is a great place for both windsurfing experts and novices. There is a sandbar that extends some 700 meters out from the shore, creating a shallow shoreline, so even if you’re not a confident swimmer, you can easily learn to windsurf here. A wide range of equipment is available for rent, with professional instructors on hand.

Nearby Çeşme is known for its beaches as well as its castle, and now has a sparkling new marina. For those who are not interested in windsurfing and just want to enjoy the water, Ilıca beach in Çeşme makes for an ideal day-trip. Unlike most beaches in Turkey, the color of the water here is light aqua, with fine white sand.

While the Alaçatı has no sights as such, keeping yourself entertained is no problem as there are many shops, cafés, bars, and restaurants. There are a range of stores selling designer clothing, olive oil soaps, an assortment of home décor items, and mastic, which comes from the nearby Greek island of Chios, and can be found flavoring local dishes.

Many of the best upmarket Turkish brands have opened shops here, including Yastık by Rıfat Özbek, with its assortment of colorful and unique pillows; Haremlique, which specializes in high-quality linens and textiles; BNG, which carries a range of designer clothes and accessories; and, most recently, Midnight Express, which specializes in clothing and jewelry by young Turkish designers.

There are also many independent shops, often run by owners who came here to escape big city life. Isla Bonita is one such shop, and sells a range of decorative and gift items, including high-quality peştemals (traditional Turkish towels), natural soaps, ceramics, and accessories, as well as jams and sauces from Agrilia restaurant (see below). Red Horse Red House sells chic home accessories, which make the perfect finishing touches for a weekend home. Ipekçe, which also has a branch in Bodrum, carries a range of unique decorative items and jewelry, often with a strongly ethnic look, as many of the items are custom-made for the store in India. As the name implies, Fash carries a range of stylish, high-fashion beachwear from the likes of Missoni and Diane Von Furstenberg.

There are also many antique stores, mostly located in the Haci Memiş area of town. This neighborhood is far less developed than the town’s main strip, and is an unexpected delight. Stray dogs pad about, cared for communally by the local shopkeepers. Wandering through the streets, you will find a number of stores selling a range of antiques, including furniture, vases, glassware, and decorative items. You could easily spend hours wandering around and searching for little treasures. Judging from the number of restaurants, shops, and hotels that have opened this year, this area won’t remain unknown for long. In fact, the neighborhood has become so popular that internationally acclaimed textile designer Lisa Corti even opened a shop here this summer.

In terms of restaurants, foodies will be spoiled for choice, as the standards in Alaçatı are very high. One of the oldest restaurants in town is Café Agrilia. Housed in an old tobacco factory, this local favorite serves well-executed Mediterranean dishes with a strong Italian influence in an elegant and romantic setting. Another local favorite is Kalamata, with its atmospheric courtyard garden. As well as fresh grilled fish, Kalamata offers a range of unusual mezes with Greek and Armenian influences, served with great attention to detail.

One of the newest additions to Alaçatı’s restaurant scene isDa Vittorio. After having established a strong following in Istanbul, Italian chef Vittorio opened a second restaurant this May in the La Capria Suite Hotel. Da Vittorio serves mouth-watering rustic Italian cuisine using the freshest regional ingredients. The menu includes freshly made pastas, local seafood, their legendary eggplant parmigiana, as well as an excellent wine list, making this a must-visit for food-lovers.

For an afternoon coffee and freshly baked dessert, drop by the always-packed Köşe Cafe – anything chocolate is highly recommended. In terms of nightlife, there are many popular bars and restaurants in Alaçatı, with Yaya the current favorite haunt of all the beautiful people. In Çeşme, meanwhile, you can find the very popular Babylon Aya Yorgi beach.

Alaçatı has such a relaxed vibe that you could easily while away many days or weeks here enjoying the fresh air, beautiful beaches, delicious cuisine, and the town’s simple and unpretentious style. Alaçatı has much of the best that Turkey has to offer, all wrapped up in one tasteful and charming little package.

They are witty, cool, and love to discover Istanbul. Meet the town’s newest residents. These guys can spot what’s in, what’s out, and what’s edgy in Istanbul. We asked them about their favorite spots in town and here is what they had to say.

Alex Varlık (Businessman)

Perfect casual dinner: Karaköy Lokantası, Karaköy

“Beautiful street terrace, excellent mezes (Turkish-style appetizers), and very good service! I love the streets of Karaköy!”

Perfect drink: Delicatessen, Nişantaşı

“Delicatessen is like my second living room, my favorite place in Istanbul to have a glass of wine and a cheese plate. Great place, great location, and very interesting cosmopolite customers! Elif and Barış are doing an excellent job.”

Favorite for seafood: Cibalikapı Balıkçısı, Haliç

“Cibalikapı has a beautiful location by the Golden Horn, very charming place, good service, and very different and tasty mezes and fish.”

Ray Rizzo (Yoga Trainer/ Healing Arts, MAC)

Most relaxing night out: Having fish and meze in Yeniköy

“Great food, no crowd, no traffic.”

For a massage: Nu Spa, Bebeköy/G-Mall/Kanyon

“That’s where I work and the therapists are great.”

Favorite grocery store: IstinyePark Bazaar

“IstinyePark Bazaar is more expensive but the quality is amazing.”

Daniel Stork (Cultural Attaché, Embassy of the kingdom of the Netherlands)

Favorite place for a beer: Otto Sofyalı / Otto Santral

“Otto Sofyalı and Santral are the best places for a beer with their great interiors, good lighting, good live music, and delicious pizzas. Also, Sofyalı is right in the middle of the best neighborhood in town right now. The crowd is a nice mix of hipsters, artsy folks, and foreigners with the odd Galatasaray player.”

Best gallery: Gallery NON

“Run by Derya Demir and Barış, NON is a gallery in the burgeoning gallery street Boğazkesen, small but with a great selection of Turkish artists. Many of the shows are very engaged and rather political, which makes them quite interesting. As a nonconformist gallery, NON has showcased some foreign shows including many by Dutch artists—there is also one coming up in September during the Biennial.”

Best clothes shopping: Mavi

“If I need something I usually go to Mavi, which is cool, good-value, and fine quality.”

Summer is finally here, and what better way to spend a hot sunny weekend than relaxing by the pool or beach? Although swimming in the Bosphorus may be risky business, you can still enjoy a day in the water without having to leave the city. All of the city’s five-star hotels have great pools, but Istanbul also offers a variety of beach clubs and private pools. Many of the city’s beach clubs are located on the Black Sea coast close to Kilyos, and, as the locals will warn you, there can be a very strong undertow, so visitors should be careful not to swim too far out.

Suada Club

One of Istanbul’s most trendy and popular pools, Suada is located on Galatasaray Adası, which is actually a man-made island just a stone’s throw away from Kuruçeşme, on the European side of the city. This island is home to an Olympic-size swimming pool as well as several popular restaurants and nightclubs, including 360 Suada Club, Fish…, G Balık, and more.Suada is right underneath your fingertips, with complimentary private boats leaving from the Kuruçeșme Park every two to three minutes.

Solar Beach

Located on the Black Sea coast in Kilyos, Solar Beach has been open since 2002 and is one of Istanbul’s largest beach clubs, with a 3,000-person capacity. Managed by Urban Bug this year, Solar Beach offers a wide range of entertainment options, with music festivals, concerts, and DJ performances. There are also a wide variety of activities available, including beach volleyball, beach soccer, rock climbing, jet skiing, kite boarding, banana boats, wind surfing, bungee jumping, go karting, and now also hover crafting. There is even a VIP area, with workout facilities and trainers from the Mayadrom Fitness Center.

Dalia Beach Club

Located in Demirciköy on the Black Sea, Dalia Beach Club has attempted to cultivate a Mediterranean holiday atmosphere. Closer to nature than many other beach clubs in the city, there is a wooded area where you can go trekking, and lots of green grass. Dalia is also known for the quality of its food, with an upscale fish restaurant and breakfast that is prepared with regional cheeses, jams, and honey. Perfect for a peaceful day by the sea.

BURC Beach

Managed by Boğazici University’s alumni association, BURC Beach is located on the Black Sea in Kilyos. Also open to non-alumni, this beautiful beach is a great place to relax or enjoy a range of activities that include beach volleyball, kite flying, windsurfing, catamaran, kite boarding, and more. There are also a number of casual drinking and snacking options.

Uzunya Beach

Located close to Demirciköy, Uzunya Beach has a very relaxed and natural atmosphere, with wicker umbrellas, clean sand, and grass. There is a fish and seafood restaurant that is open year round, as well as other snacking options. Unlike most beach clubs in the city, Uzunya also offers camping facilities and has a wooded area, so you can truly make a vacation out of your visit.

Seanergy Beach Club

Located on the Black Sea coast, Seanergy is a popular upscale beach club with many leisure facilities. With 17,000 square meters of green space and 6,000 square meters of beach, this is one of the largest beach clubs in the city and offers a wide range of services. There are a variety of sports and entertainment activities, including water sports, bungee jumping, beach volleyball, beach rugby, ultimate Frisbee, and paintball. There are also yoga and Pilates classes available, as well as wind-surfing lessons. In addition to the restaurants, there are also picnic and barbeque facilities on offer, and DJ performances in the evenings. In short, everything you might desire for a day at the beach.

Büyükada Beaches

Istanbul’s Princes Islands have long been considered the ultimate city break within the city. With just one short ferry ride you are transported to a whole other world, complete with horse-drawn carriages. Büyükada has several small beaches where you can keep cool and enjoy the waters of the Marmara Sea. The best are Naki Bey and Yoruk Ali beach clubs, which offer a range of amenities. Yoruk Ali also offers bungalow rentals for those who want to make a complete vacation out of their Büyükada trip. These beaches are best visited on weekdays, as Büyük Ada can get uncomfortably crowded on summer weekends.

Sedef Adası

Sedef Adası is the smallest of the Princes Islands and is still mostly covered with pine forests and private property. There are two private beaches on the island – Club Ada Sedef and Elio - where you can enjoy peace and quiet away from the crowds, as well as good food and service.

Ingredients: (serves 6)

• 1 kg green beans or French beans
• 2 medium yellow onions
• 2 tbsp sugar
• 6 cloves garlic, whole
• 5 medium tomatoes
• 10 damson plums
• ¾ cup olive oil
• 1 lemon
• 1 lemon, juice of

Preparation:

1. Peel and cube tomatoes.
2. Slice lemon into thin rings.
3. Slice onion into thin rings.
4. Pour half of the olive oil into a pot. Sauté onions and garlic with half of the sugar.
5. Cut off the ends of the green beans, trim them and snap in half. Add to the sautéed onions and season with salt. Add green beans and gently press them down in the pot without stirring. Sprinkle the remaining sugar and pour in lemon juice.
6. Add the cubed tomatoes and press down.
7. Slice the plums in half and remove pit. Place on top of tomatoes, flesh side down.
8. Place lemon slices over mixture and add ½ cup water.
9. Cover the pot and simmer until the beans are tender.
10. Place in serving dish and serve chilled.

Ingredients:

• 6 slices of stale peasant bread
• 2 cucumbers
• 3 ripe tomatoes
• 1 red onion
• 1 cup of basil
• 6 tablespoons of extra-virgin olive oil
• 3 teaspoons of vinegar
• Salt
• Ground black pepper

Preparation:

1. Peel and dice the cucumbers.
2. Remove the seeds and dice the tomatoes.
3. Chop the red onion in thin slices.
4. Chop the basil.
5. Wet the bread under running water, and then squeeze the excess water out.
6. Cut the breads into small cubes and put them in a bowl.
7. Add the cucumbers, tomatoes, onion, and basil into the bowl and mix them.
8. In another bowl, whisk the olive oil, vinegar, salt, and ground black pepper.
9. Pour the olive oil mixture on the salad.
10. Wait at least 30 minutes to serve it.

Widely regarded as one of the top yoga instructors in Turkey, Saash Behnam Kheirolomor, known simply as Saash to his students, has now moved from Istanbul to Bodrum. Having studied and trained in India for eight years, he moved to Turkey in 2008 where he has taught at various healthcare, spa, sport, and yoga centers. Since June 25, Saash has been teaching at The Life Co once a week.

He is also organizing a 3-day Yoga and Homeopathy Camp at Kabak Vadisi in Fethiye between 21-24 July. The camp will feature two daily Ashtanga Yoga classes (one in the morning and one in the afternoon) and a daily 2-hour homeopathy seminar by Hande Özçıkrıkçı. Held at Helin Kamp, the daily price is 150 TL per person, including breakfast, dinner, accommodation, and daily classes and seminars. If you’d like to get away from the city and indulge in some serious yoga, book your place ASAP by contacting homeopati@yahoo.com or 05369211106. For more information on Saash and Hande, check out http://www.beashtangiyogi.com/

Say goodbye to pain and suffering, and hello to tranquility and inner peace. These are the goals of yoga and meditation. With yoga holidays, you can embark on a spiritual journey to this desired state of being while relaxing on a beach, sipping a frozen cocktail, and enjoying your choice of summer reads. But if your personal idea of nirvana is not calmness and joy but looking slim and fit, Bodrum also offers a variety of destinations where you can detox, be pampered, lose weight, and learn the rules for leading a healthy lifestyle.

Revive Your Mind and Body

Down bumpy, stony roads, nestled deep in the breathtaking mountainous areas of Bodrum, you’ll find Atami Hotel located in Paradise Bay. Amid this tranquil cliff-top setting, you’ll be welcomed with an ideal blend of spectacular sea views and elegant accommodations.

Yogis from around the world come to the secluded serenity that is Atami Hotel to offer yoga holidays for those who’d like to improve their asanas (yoga postures) while relaxing on the beautiful Aegean beach. From May through October, Atami hosts weekly yoga holidays with a different yoga instructor and yoga style each week. The programs usually last seven days, and a typical day involves waking up early (around 7:00am) to do morning yoga, have breakfast, and participate in activities throughout the day or simply relax on the beach. Then another yoga session is on in the afternoon, followed by a vegetarian meal.

The hotel takes full advantage of its location, offering a variety of activities that revolve around the surrounding area. Guests can go to the Yalıkavak Bazaar or Bodrum’s center for shopping, indulge in a hamam (Turkish Bath) experience, or go on a boat tour to see the spectacular bays and swim in crystal-clear waters.

Atami Hotel, which was included in Taschen’s Great Yoga Retreats and Great Mediterranean Escapes, features a unique décor: the large, multi-storied building is decorated with custom-made and hand-picked furniture, some with a vintage feel, some Asian-inspired, and some that could belong in an old reading room. All these seemingly unrelated pieces somehow harmonize despite their differences, creating a soothing, relaxed, and homey ambiance.

If you want sun and the beach with a side of yoga, this is a great escape for you. For more information, visit www.atamihotel.com.

Find Inner Peace

The yogi couple Pervin and Michael Cullingworth host yoga holidays at their cozy home in Gölköy, Bodrum. At this earthy location, all you hear are the noises of nature: chirping birds, leaves brushing against the wind, and the occasional bark of the resident dog. Here, time stands still, allowing you to calm your mind, forget your to-do list, and concentrate on the stillness of your being.

The simple, hippie-style hilltop oasis, which was quite deserted when I visited, is revitalized during the yoga holiday season, which begins in May and lasts through October with a break in July and August when the weather gets too hot for people to be able to practice on the outdoor yoga deck. In addition to the couple, international instructors come to the Cullingworths’ home to teach a variety of yoga styles, from Dharma and Hatha to Vinyasa and Okido.

Having met while studying art in the UK, Pervin and Michael moved to Bodrum ten years ago and began hosting yoga holidays. Pervin’s first yoga camp experience was in Holland, and she describes it as being quite intensive and difficult. Although she says that the experience proved challenging both physically and mentally, Pervin still gets animated when she talks about the surge of energy that she felt after finishing the camp. This increased energy and liveliness made a considerable impression on her, later inspiring her to start hosting yoga holidays of her own, albeit much milder ones than the camp she attended.

At the Cullingworth residence, the participants attend yoga sessions twice a day (a more intensive one in the morning and a more relaxed one in the afternoon), leaving the day for the participants to enjoy as they please. However, it should be noted that this hilltop oasis does not offer accommodation; yoga holidaymakers can sleep in any of four nearby hotels.

If you want to go back to basics and find your balance in simple, ascetic surroundings, this is just the right escape for you. For more details, visit www.yogaturkey.co.uk.

Take Your Body in for Maintenance

The Life Co is a detox, well-being, and healthy lifestyle center that offers a new way of life for those looking for a more energetic, healthier, and slimmer self. The detox program is primarily designed for those looking for emotional, physical, and mental purification, although weight loss is a side effect of the program. The Life Co’s program coordinator Mirey Yuhay is a living testament to what The Life Co offers, emanating a calm and peaceful energy as I talk to her. She explains the purpose of detoxing with a great metaphor: just like you need to take your car in for maintenance every once in a while to make sure it works properly, you need to do the same for your body by detoxing.

Featuring a pool, lots of green areas, a white-dominated indoor area with minimal décor, and simply designed rooms, The Life Co complex offers an alternative holiday destination for those looking to renew themselves physically and spiritually. The detox programs at The Life Co range in length, depending on the needs of the individual, and involve a special diet of just shakes and a mix of herbs, cleansing of the colon, yoga, meditation, therapeutic massages (Balinese, Thai, Aromatherapy, or Chi Nei Tsang), and skincare (through hamam, steam bath, and sauna). Yuhay explains that ridding your body of toxins with the special nutritional programs also releases built-up negative energies and emotional toxins. Thus, the daily yoga classes (hatha yoga and pranayama or breathing exercises) help you reach an emotional balance.

The Life Co’s mission with the detox programs is to offer preventive therapies that allow the body to reach its optimum vitality. But weight-loss programs with a detox twist are also on offer, such as the “Green Salad Detox” program or the 14-day individually tailored weight-loss program. If you want it all and you have the time, you can choose the 21-day “Life Change” program, which is made of three different 7-day programs.

The Life Co complex is designed with the holidaymaker in mind, offering plenty of options for relaxation and activities in and around the complex. During your stay, you can jump on the trampoline, read topical books from the library, swim in the pool, watch films, walk or hike in the nearby hills, or go to the nearby beach. When you leave this “refuge”, you will have learned healthier habits that you can apply to your daily life and rid yourself of physical and emotional blockage.

If you want your life energy to flow freely again, detox your body, mind, and soul at The Life Co. For more information, visit www.thelifeco.com.

Pamper Yourself

A luxury lifestyle rejuvenation center, Palmalife Center offers detox programs, spa treatments, and weight management programs. The famous Prof. Dr. Osman Müftüoğlu has developed the concept of the Yaşasın Hayat! Enstitüsü, which offers consultations with experienced nutritionists and personal training sessions with talented instructors. The name of the center means Long Live Life Institute, which summarizes its aim: providing tools to help people lead high-quality and healthy lives.

The weight-loss programs at Palmalife are designed for the individual and are called “biometric diets”, which are created based on each individual’s specific biological differences, such as their metabolism rate. The detox and nutritional programs teach you how to reach your ideal weight and maintain it in the long run, speed up your metabolism, and rid yourself of unhealthy eating habits and lifestyle choices, while the spa treatments rejuvenate your skin and tone your body.

Past the orange-cinnamon-scented candles that adorn both sides of the hallways, the elegant spa features a traditional hamam (Turkish Bath), massage rooms, consultation rooms, an indoor pool, and treatment rooms. Purple, white, and gray tones dominate the interior of the spa, along with aromatic candles and soothing stones. Weekly yoga, pilates, and kinesis classes are also on offer. Bodrum’s local yogi, Melek Mjaanes, teaches yoga and meditation at the yoga deck overlooking the tranquil waters of the Aegean coast.

The crisply clean hotel features simple, chic rooms, minimally decorated in white and beige tones and dashes of color that add liveliness. Although the rooms are not huge, they feel quite spacious due to the decoration. To jumpstart your New Year’s resolutions, even ones that have possibly been postponed for five years or more, spend some time at the luxurious boot camp that is Palmalife.

Be Treated Like Royalty

Spread over a huge area on the Bodrum seaside, Gardens of Babylon’s motto is “all we have is deluxe,” and they definitely live up to this standard. Every aspect, every corner, and every service within the hotel is designed so that visitors can just relax, forget about their routines, and not have to lift a finger—unless, that is, they are here for the healthy lifestyle program. The hotel’s High Health Center, managed by Dr. Ender Saraç, is open year round, offering personalized programs for a healthy lifestyle. The center offers nutrition consultancy and weight-loss programs as well as skincare, cellulite and wrinkle treatments, and much more. Muu Spa & Wellness Center combines the healing techniques of the East with the technology of the West, offering top-notch beauty treatments, such as aromatherapy, skin and body care, face masks, deep tissue massage, anti-stress massage, and ayurveda massage.

If you want to be pampered like royalty while getting in shape and getting a tan, then Gardens of Babylon is the ideal luxury hotel for you.

The Ultimate Luxurious Treatments

The Kempinki Hotel Barbaros Bay’s Spa & Wellness Center, the Six Senses Spa, offers a bit of everything, from yoga and pilates to detox and spa treatments, all in an idyllic setting. Here you can purify your mind and revitalize your body with detox programs that combine cleansing nutritional programs, an individually tailored exercise program, yoga, and meditation. Apart from the detox program, the wellness activities at Kempinski include pilates, Nordic walking, a watsu pool, and fitness training to help you find physical and mental harmony while enjoying breathtaking views of the Aegean Sea.

You can get pampered at the spa with body and facial treatments and massages or indulge in a luxurious hamam (Turkish bath) experience in the most tasteful surroundings. If you’re looking to de-stress, try finding your inner calm and balance with one of their special treatments, such as the Thai Herbal Massage, Hot Stone Therapy, Shiatsu Massage, or Foot Acupressure.

To achieve inner balance and physical perfection amid a luxurious and elegant setting, book your holiday at the grand Kempinski Hotel. For more details, go to www.kempinski.com/cn/bodrum.

Cooking classes are becoming increasingly popular with good reason: you get to eat good food, you don’t have to do the dishes, and you learn enough skills to impress your guests at your next dinner party. The bonus is meeting new people and having a great time while learning something new.

An educational and vocational center that was established in 2008 by Hande Bozdoğan, Istanbul Culinary Institute (ICI) offers professional certificate programs as well as amateur cooking classes (taught by ICI instructor chefs as well as guest chefs) in their modern building in the heart of Beyoğlu. Their monthly schedule includes a variety of classes from Turkish cooking and Italian cooking to pastry-making and basic kitchen skills. No need to worry if ICI doesn’t have a cooking class to your liking—you can book a private class or group class (of at least 5 people) to learn dishes from the cuisine of your choice.

To give you an idea about how ICI courses work, The Guide team embarked on a cooking adventure of its own.

Here is what happened.

Taught by guest chef Laçin Behlil, the menu of the Impressive Dishes course included shrimp with garlic and feta cheese sauce, baked sea bass with olive and bell peppers, potatoes with bay leaf, and baked pears with sweet wine sauce. There were 5 participants, including the two of us from the Guide, and the atmosphere was very friendly and intimate. Don’t worry if you’re not experienced, this is not a competitive environment at all.

The 2.5-hour class kicked off with each person introducing themselves. In no time, we had our aprons on and were standing by our designated spots to get going. In some classes, participants form pairs to tackle the recipes. During our course, we didn’t work in pairs; instead, each participant was assigned a separate task, such as chopping garlic, cutting potatoes, or preparing the sauce. Certain time-consuming preparations, such as deboning the fish, were done by the assistants prior to the class starting time. All ingredients used in the class were high quality and fresh, including the impressively large shrimp.

It was surely a hands-on course and it was taught in such a way that even the most inexperienced cooks could keep up. As we cut, chopped, and mixed ingredients, the chef kept on giving us little tricks and tips on how to alter the recipe—which is probably one of the best aspects of taking a cooking class because most cook books will give you a recipe without offering you any varieties. If you like to play it safe, you can take a course to learn how to make a fantastic dish so that when you have guests over you know that you’ll be able to impress.

After we were done with the cooking, we all sat at the table, sipping our choice of red or white wine, chatting away, and waiting for the oven to do its magic. Once everything was ready and the food was served, silence took over for a few minutes: we were all very hungry but also amazed at how marvelous the dishes had turned out.

If you’re after a great learning experience and an enjoyable evening, the amateur classes are definitely for you. Call ICI when you’re in Istanbul (or even before you arrive) to book a spot at one of their cooking classes or reserve a time for a private/group class. You’ll see that it is a great investment—one that will pay off months after you leave as you’ll be able to cook great Turkish food at home.

The bookings depend on the availability of chefs and the ICI kitchen. Most instructor chefs can teach in English as well, but it’s safer to call in advance to let them know if you’ll be needing instructions in English. If the chef doesn’t speak English, there will be an assistant present who can translate. The prices for monthly courses are approximately 120 TL. If you’re after a private or group course, you will be given a separate price. Ask them about team-building, corporate cooking courses, and gift certificates. Call (0212) 251 22 14 for more information and to register.

Ingredients (Serves 1 person)

- 1 avocado

- 1 lime

- 1 tomato

- 1 red onion

- 5-6 bunches of fresh coriander

- 20 ml red wine vinegar

- 30 ml olive oil

- 180 gr swordfish

- 2 bay leaves

- 2 cherry tomatoes

- ½ red bell pepper

- ½ lemon

- Seasonal greens

- Salt and black pepper to taste

Instructions

Add the ingredients on the skewer in the following order: cubed red bell pepper, cubed swordfish (approximately 30 gr), 1 bay leaf, ½ lemon slice, swordfish, cherry tomato, swordfish, and red bell pepper. Season it with salt and pepper, sprinkle with olive oil, and cook it on the grill until each side gets grill marks (approximately 1 minute on each side).

To prepare the avocado salad, cut the avocado in half and remove the pit. Dice the avocado without removing the peel. Scoop the flesh into a mixing bowl and add lime juice from one lime to prevent the avocado from turning brown. Add the diced tomatoes, red onion, and fresh coriander leaves, and season with red wine vinegar, olive oil, and salt.

To prepare the seasonal greens, mix the greens in a bowl with red wine vinegar, olive oil, salt, and pepper. Put two swordfish skewers, avocado salad, and seasonal greens on a plate and serve.

An archipelago of nine islands on the Marmara Sea just 20km from Istanbul, the Princes’ Islands, known simply as Adalar in Turkish, have long been a popular vacation destination. However, the islands are also known for somewhat more sinister reasons. Dating back to Byzantine times, unruly princes, deposed monarchs, and others who had become vexing for the royal family were exiled to the islands, a tradition that was continued under the Ottoman Empire. This is how the islands got their name. Over time, the islands lost this unsavory reputation and in the 19^th century became a popular summer resort for the city’s large Greek, Jewish, and Armenian communities, many of whom continue to summer here today. It was during this period that many of the islands’ lavish villas and mansions were built.

The largest of the Princes’ Islands is Büyükada, which means “the big island” in Turkish. Büyükada has been home to a great many famous residences over the centuries. A number of Byzantine empresses were exiled to the island’s convent, including Irene, (mother of Constantine), Theophano, and Zoe. Following his deportation from the Soviet Union, Leon Trotsky spent years in exile on the island. One of the leaders of the Russian 1917 October Revolution, Trotsky was removed from power following his split with Lenin. From 1922 to 1933, Trotsky lived on Büyükada and wrote the History of the Russian Revolution here, which is somewhat amazing when you consider the 34,000 White Russians who were also living in exile in Istanbul at the same time.

Other famous residents include the Şakir family, whose many escapades are discussed in the novel A Turkish Tapestry by Shirin Devrim. A family rich with viziers, generals, poets, and playboys, the most famous of this wild bunch is Cevat Şakir, known as the ‘Fisherman of Halicarnassus’. A writer, traveller, and ethnographer, Cevat Şakir is famous for putting the resort town of Bodrum on the map. After being exiled to what was then just a fishing and sponge-diving village, Cevat fell under Bodrum’s spell and is credited with bringing the town to the attention of the Turkish intelligentsia, which eventually led to it becoming a major tourist destination.

Today, Büyükada remains a popular destination, both with day trippers and those who are lucky enough to summer here. A trip out to the islands involves a ferry or sea bus ride, which can be a joy in itself. As you sail through the azure waters, you can enjoy a cup of tea as you watch the city’s dramatic skyline fade into the distance. Docking at Büyükada, you will immediately notice the beautiful Iskele (pier), with its octagonal passenger hall ornately decorated with Kütahya tiles. Built in 1914, the pier was used as the island’s first movie hall in the early 1950s.

Past the pier, the town’s main waterfront is lined with cafés and fish restaurants, all vying for your attention. Just past this strip towards the island’s center, you will see the Splendid Palace Hotel. A three-story building with red shutters and topped with twin metallic domes, this building was originally a hospital for soldiers wounded in the Crimean War and retains a faded elegance of a bygone era.

Soon you will reach the clock tower in the center of the town square, which will lead you to fayton square, essentially the city’s main taxi station. One of the most peaceful things about Büyükada is the fact that there are no cars on the island. Instead of cars, the main form of transportation on the islands is with bicycles and the ubiquitous horse-drawn carriages, known as fayton in Turkish. From here you can arrange for a fayton tour of the island, which is very enjoyable, particularly with children. However, if you feel up for it, we recommend a walking tour, or even cycling (bicycles are available for rent).

Exploring by foot is an excellent way to take in the architectural richness and diversity of the island. There are a great many summer homes here, and while some are new and simply functional, there are also many beautiful old wooden houses with such elaborate decorations, they look like sumptuous wedding cakes. Some of these gingerbread-like houses are very well preserved, while others have sadly been neglected and are crumbling at the edges. Büyükada is also home to some 14 holy buildings, including several churches, mosques and one synagogue. The most famous of these is the Greek Orthodox Aya Yorgi (Saint George) Church and Monastery dating back to the sixth century. The trip up to Aya Yorgi is one of the most popular and enjoyable activities on the island, whether by food, bike or fayton.

Walking through the wooded path through the windy pine trees, the island’s otherworldly charm quickly engulfs you. You will even see many stray horses roaming through the woods, idly grazing on wild grass. Part way up the very steep climb, you can spot a large abandoned building up on the opposite summit. The island has two peaks, one of which is called Hristo, and on this sits a massive wooden structure, supposedly the largest in Europe and one of the biggest in the world. Originally designed to be a hotel and casino, the Sultan denied permission for this usage, and the building eventually came to be a Greek orphanage. As Istanbul’s Greek residents dwindled, it was decided that there was no longer any need for an orphanage. The building was closed down in 1964, and is now in a state of decay. Rumor has it that the building will soon undergo a major renovation and be transformed into a boutique hotel.

Further up the path towards the monastery, you will notice that there are many ribbons tied to the branches of trees and shrubs, representing wishes made by passersby, often women hoping for a child as the monastery is strongly associated with fertility. In fact, on April 23 and September 23, thousands of worshippers makes the trip barefoot up to Aya Yorgi, and while this is a primarily Christian tradition, many Turks and visitors of all faiths make this pilgrimage. Inside the church, there is a glass box where you can write and deposit your prayers to Saint George, as many people of all religions believe that Saint George performed miracles.

Once you’ve visited the church and made a wish with either a candle or in the prayer box, you can enjoy a break at the café next door. There is a small but very tasty menu that includes grilled meats and basic Turkish meze, as well as wine made by the monks themselves. This is the perfect place to reward yourself with a well-deserved rest after making the trek up the hill and also to take in the stunning views of the water and Sedef island below. In the distance, you can also see the urban sprawl of Istanbul, which comes as a bit of a jolt to the system, given how far you feel from the world of crowds of people and honking cars.

Walking back down, it is nice to take one of the routes taken by the faytons. The shorter route (küçük tur) passes the most elegant houses and monasteries, while the longer route (büyük tur) will take you to the far end of the island through a coastal road that winds through the forest and overlooks the many bays and beautiful coastline. Once you have made it back into the town you can take a wander through the various small shops. The best way to end the day is with a meal at one of the seafood restaurants that line the waterfront, as Büyükada is an excellent place to enjoy seafood. We recommend Ali Baba, where you can enjoy a range of classic Turkish mezes and perfectly grilled catch of the day,

As the sun starts to set and you make your way back to the ferries, it can feel hard to believe that so much history and beauty can fit onto one tiny island. While its heyday may be behind it, Büyükada still makes for a magical break away from the city.

Ingredients

• 15 strawberries
• 3 ounces bittersweet chocolate
• 3 ounces white chocolate

Method

1. Chop chocolates and place in separate bowls.
2. Place these bowls over a pot of barely simmering water and let stand until melted.
3. Stir until smooth, set aside and let cool for a few minutes.
4. Dip strawberries in white chocolate and place on a baking sheet. Refrigerate for 10 minutes.
5. Dip sides of the strawberries in bitter chocolate. Back to the refrigerator for 10 more minutes.
6. Dip a thin paint brush in bitter chocolate and draw the bow tie and buttons.

For more mouthwatering recipes from Cenk Sönmezsoy, visit Cafe Fernando.

Many fans of home-baking will be familiar with Cafe Fernando, the beautifully produced blog by Istanbul resident Cenk Sönmezsoy, which features an array of mouth-watering recipes. Since it was first started five years ago, Cafe Fernando has won a number of awards. Most notably, the blog was picked among ‘50 of the world’s best food blogs’ by the London-based Times, and the ‘Best Culinary Travel Blog’ by Saveur magazine. The blog also won the ‘Altın Örumcek’ (The Golden Spider Award) for Turkey’s Best Blog in 2008, as well as mentions in the New York Times and Washington Post, and was a cover story for the San Francisco Chronicle. Today Cafe Fernando receives around 40,000 hits a day, and even has its own iphone and ipad applications.

For those of you who are not familiar with this blog or the author’s story, here’s a quick recap: Born and raised in Istanbul, Sönmezsoy studied business in Ankara before moving to San Francisco to pursue an MBA. During his time there, he fell in love with the city and the wide variety of food on offer. While in the US and away from his mother’s home cooking, he started to experiment in the kitchen, at first out of necessity and then because he discovered that he enjoyed it and was also rather good at it.

After a number of years working in the high-tech PR industry, Sönmezsoy made the decision to return to Turkey and started working at his family’s boutique advertising agency. When reading the posts from this time, it is very clear that, for him, corporate life was a grind. It was during this period that Sönmezsoy started his blog, most likely looking for a creative outlet for his culinary skills. While you might think that the name Cafe Fernando refers to someplace in San Francisco, this is in fact not the case. Sonmezsoy is a big fan of the 1980s classic sitcom The Golden Girls, and the name Cafe Fernando is actually an obscure reference to character Rose’s teddy bear named Fernando. Around a year ago, Sönmezsoy decided to call it quits on the corporate life and pursue his passion for food and photography full-time. Meanwhile, he has also been working on his first cookbook.

While there are thousands of food blogs out there, what sets Cafe Fernando apart is not only the gorgeous photography, but also the quality of the recipes and many helpful tips offered. Also, these are recipes that have been altered for a Turkish context. The great thing about the recipes on Cafe Fernando is that differences in local ingredients are taken into account, substitutes are suggested, and for most recipes, the required ingredients can be found at your local supermarket.

Having been a fan of the blog for several years, I was eager to meet the man behind the recipes. When I finally did meet him, he was recovering from a serious bout of jet lag, after returning from his old and still beloved city San Francisco. I’m lucky enough to be invited into his lovely home while he experiments with some new recipes that he is working on.

I get right down to business and ask what made him start a food blog in the first place. As anyone who has moved abroad and then returned home can tell you, your time away gives you a new perspective on yourhome town. Upon returning to Istanbul, one thing Sönmezsoy noticed was that he could not generally find the same variety and quality of baked goods that he had enjoyed in San Francisco, and decided to take matters into his own hands. However, the real inspiration struck when he came across his original muse www.nordljus.co.uk. Despite the Scandinavian name, this beautifully produced baking blog is actually written by a Japanese woman living in the UK, and inspired Sönmezsoy to embark on his own culinary adventures and to blog about them.

As we settled down to some delicious chocolate brownies, I ask if he has ever taken any lessons in either cooking or photography. Unfortunately, he says, he has simply never had the time. At university, he studied business, and after graduating, he always worked long hours, with any free time he had spent on his blog, and now his soon-to-be published cookbook. Reading the blog, it is evident that Sönmezsoy is a perfectionist and a stickler for details. In fact, before any recipe makes it online, he tests it out between three and 10 times, until he gets it just right. Apart from testing the recipes himself, he also has a number of independent testers who try them out in their own kitchen, to make sure that the results are identical.

As a well-established foodie, and clearly one with strong opinions, I’m eager to learn more about Sönmezsoy’s personal food preferences. What for example, is his favorite Turkish dish? It turns out that this honor goes to his mother’s karnıyarık, a classic Turkish dish of cooked eggplant stuffed with minced meat. When I ask if there are any Turkish dishes that he does not like, he admits that he finds that the desserts can be a bit too sweet and repetitive. In terms of favorite cuisine, Sönmezsoy sites Vietnamese and Thai, because of the flavor combinations and the balance of tastes that are sweet, salty, and spicy all at once. Naturally, I wonder if a connoisseur such as himself has any guilty pleasures along the lines of junk food, but he insists that he does not feel guilty about any of his food pleasures. However, when pressed, he will concede that Nutella could be counted as a guilty pleasure.

As a long-time resident of the city, I ask him what he thinks of Istanbul’s restaurant scene and how it has evolved over the years. In terms of favorites, Beyti, Balıkçı Sabahattin, Çiya, Iskele Rumelihisar, and Zuma all make the list. But when it comes to the scene and how it has changed, Sönmezsoy says that he is not the person to ask, as he does not go out to restaurants that often and instead prefers to socialize with friends in their homes. When I ask what his favorite Istanbul pastime is, he says that when he has some free time, he enjoys going to Çiya, (a restaurant that is well-known for its inventive and original dishes), visiting the famous Baylan patisserie for dessert, and then looking through the Kadıköy market. Similarly, he enjoys going to Çukurcuma, hunting through the antique stores, and looking for props for the blog.

One thing that I personally find very interesting in the food world today is the meteoric rise of cooking programs on TV and food blogs. Michael Polan, very well known for his writings on food in modern day culture, has pointed out that the rise in popularity in watching cooking on television has coincided with the decline in actual cooking done at home. What is interesting with blogs like Cafe Fernando is that although many people undoubtedly just gawk at the beautiful images, many people actually do use it for real cooking purposes. The photographs are gorgeous, to the point that the creations can appear daunting to the casual home baker. But having tried several of the recipes myself, I can attest to the fact that thanks to the very detailed instructions, you too can get the same results.

I ask Sönmezsoy what he thinks of the proliferation of TV shows dedicated to cooking, and if he had an interest in cooking or watching TV shows as a child. Apparently, his interest in cooking did not develop until adulthood, and he reminds me that there were no cooking programs on television in Turkey in the 1980s. However, he is now a big fan of food television, including Julia Child, having bought the DVDs all of her cooking programs. When asked about current cooking shows, he says that he is also a fan, and cites the Master Chef Australia as one of his favorites. Mainly, he enjoys this show because it is not edited to make it appear dramatic, and it features regular people instead of professional chefs, and they are actually taught to cook. He is also a big fan of Heston Blummenthal and his TV shows, such as Heston’s Mission Impossible.

With his love of The Golden Girls well documented, I ask if there are any current TV programs he enjoys. It turns out that Sönmezsoy is still a bit of a TV junky. Working from home means that he often ends up working 24 hours a day, and TV is his main escape mechanism, allowing him to mentally switch off and relax. Current favorites include Mad Men, Damages, The Good Wife, Glee, the American version of The Office, Parks and Recreation, and many more.

Clearly, cooking, writing and photography are very much all-consuming for Sönmezsoy. Recently, most of his time and energy have been focused on his forthcoming cookbook, which should be ready sometime towards the end of the year. The book is based on baking recipes because he knows these recipes better than all others. When he was conceiving the book, he asked himself, “If Cafe Fernando was an actual café, what would it sell?” The recipes featured are both sweet and savory, and the book has been his chance to go more in-depth in this field. Although the book will not resemble a training manual, he wants those who read the book to fully understand the different baking concepts.

He has currently completed the recipes and is working on the photos. I ask how writing a book differs from writing a blog, and Sönmezsoy says that one of the biggest differences is that for the first time, he will be charging his readers for his recipes and advice, which of course changes the dynamics. Also, unlike in the blog, where there is more diversity in the way the recipes are given, in his book he is looking to achieve more uniformity with the instructions, in order to make them very clear.

Sönmezsoy is obviously very passionate about what he does, and this dedication to his craft has won him considerable success and accolades. While he clearly respects his readers, in terms of their time and money, he obviously does not spend too much time wondering what others are doing or thinking and just gets on with it, which certainly must be a factor in his success. Given how popular the blog is, readers can no doubt look forward to an equally mouth-watering cookbook.

Burcu in Short

Reads: Everything and everyone; among her favorites are Italo Calvino, Charles Baudelaire, Rabindranath Tagore, Cemal Süreyya, Nazım Hikmet, Atilla İlhan, Gabriel Garcia Marquez.

Watches: Films (not TV shows). Among her favorites are—Requiem for a dream, Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind, Dancer in the Dark, The Return, Amelie, 21 grams, The Lord of the Rings, Memento, Wall-e, and Ice Age.

Listens to: Mostly classical music and jazz; her all-time favorites are Pink Martini, Buena Vista Social Club, Nils Petter, Erykah Badu, Tori Amos; her latest addictions are Nouvelle Vague and Adelle.

Gets inspired by: The streets of Istanbul, her dreams, the night, blogs (http://inspiredme.tumblr.com/, ffffound.com, http://www.behance.com/).

Goes to: Beyoğlu, Kadıköy, Moda, Çengelköy, Arnavutköy, Ortaköy, Caddebostan, Galata, Tünel, Sultanahmet.

Likes: Pastel colors, especially brown, green, and blue.

Plays: The guitar to relax and unwind. Works: All the time, but prefers to work at night.

Recommends: Putting some music on and dancing in the room to revamp and get back to work.

If you’ve ever thought about chucking the TV out of the window, here is a very good reason: it leaves room for all the creative things that you always wanted to do. That’s at least what the young graphic designer/illustrator Burcu Günister does: without a TV to zap channels on, Burcu spends all her time feeding her soul.

An all-around artist who illustrates, does graphic design, and writes; Burcu was born in the northwestern city of İzmit and came to Istanbul in 2004 to study graphic design at the Fine Arts Faculty of Marmara University. Although not an Istanbul native, she is enchanted by the beauty of Istanbul, from where she gets most of her inspiration.

After finishing her BA in 2009 (which she graduated from at the top of her class), she began her Master’s degree in graphic design. She’s now writing her thesis on the effect of microstock sites (websites that sell images) on graphic design—a topic that has not been researched before.

She took the first steps of her successful career in primary school where her talent was discovered and encouraged by her art teacher. Burcu says that her teacher inspired and urged her to pursue a career in art. Now, when she looks back at her paintings from primary school she realizes that what she was painting then was in fact a form of illustration.

That’s why she enrolled in a vocational high school, studying graphic design at a young age and realizing that this is what she’s meant to do. She tells me that, after completing high school, she didn’t even consider doing anything else; it was a natural progression for her to go on to study graphic design at university. “This is what I’m meant to do,” she says, “this is a lifestyle, not a job.”

As she was preparing for university, it was her art teacher caricaturist Muhammet Şengöz that taught her how to think and look at the world. She says that “my time with Mr. Şengöz was one of the turning points in my life.”

A very disciplined and energetic young woman, Burcu has prospered in university, winning several logo competitions. She continues to overachieve in all aspects of her life. For example, in June, she’s headed to Cannes to compete at the Cannes Young Lions Competition in the short film category to execute a creative project in 48 hours.

She currently works as the art director at Publicis Bold while also being involved in freelance illustration and logo projects. She explains that she has a growing interest in typography and aims to improve herself in this area.

She is still ambivalent about which road she’ll take in the future; she doesn’t like limiting herself and wants to run free. But she does stress the fact that she wants to stay within the advertising industry as she finds the force and effect of advertising too appealing, as well as the process of finding an idea and being involved in the creative process.

She also dreams of working in interdisciplinary projects in the future, hopefully getting a chance to be involved in projects in which she can blend her two passions: illustration and typography.

A lover of all things chaotic and dynamic, she loves the energy of Istanbul, especially the areas where the beautiful and the ugly coexist. Istanbul is not just her inspiration but also the topic of most of her projects. In the past, she created a 3-D pop-up book on Istanbul and hand-made postcards. In the future, she’d like to work on a project in which she can illuminate Istanbul without its icons, with all its nakedness.

(To see more of Burcu’s work, check out www.behance.net/burcugunister.)

Lose the hair the Turkish Way: Waxing has been practiced and mastered in the Middle East and Turkey for thousands of years. So ditch those razors, and head to a kuaför (hair salon) to get your hair removed the old fashioned way. You can opt for a luxurious salon in Etiler or Nişantaşı, or simply walk into a local salon near where you live. In the past, women would make their own ağda (sugaring paste) at home with a sugar and lemon mixture (this method is known abroad as sugaring—see below if you want to try it at home yourself.) These days, the more technologically advanced and convenient version of wax (called sir ağda) is commonly used at salons.

DIY:The ingredients to make sugaring paste are sugar, lemon, and water, although the particular formulas vary as some choose to use white sugar instead of natural and some prefer to add lemon salt instead of lemon juice. Here is what you’ll need:

• 2 cups of sugar
• ¼ cups of lemon juice
• ¼ cups of water

Put the ingredients in a bowl, and slowly bring to a boil over low heat, stirring continuously. The mixture will take a liquid form, and once it starts bubbling up, remove from the heat and let it cool for a few minutes. It’s imperative that you wait for the liquid to cool properly or you’ll burn yourself. Then, pour the golden-colored mixture on a wet surface. Make sure that the surface is made of marble or stone so that the mixture doesn’t stick. Here is the more difficult bit: you need to work the mixture in your hands until it becomes easy to smooth on the skin (this may require a few practice runs for the novice). After the paste reaches the right consistency, either apply the paste on the desired area with your hands (it should not stick to your hands) or store in a microwaveable container for later use (you’ll need to reheat the paste to a lukewarm temperature for future application). Spread the paste on your skin (either with a spatula or your hands) in the direction of hair growth and rip it off (with your hands or using strips of cotton cloth) in the opposite direction. Do this quickly with the flick of a wrist for minimal pain.

The procedure may sound a bit complicated and time-consuming, but sugaring is known to be less painful than waxing as the paste doesn’t stick to the skin, so it would be worth your time and effort.

Rejuvenate your skin at a hamam:

In the days of the Ottoman Empire, ladies would spend an entire day at the hamam (Turkish bath), bringing along a retinue of attendants with large baskets containing food and refreshments, as well as various utensils and towels. The day would be spent idly chatting, alternating between the steam room and the cooler atmosphere of the relaxation rooms. You can still get a taste of this age-old experience today in a traditional hamam. A visit to the Turkish bath is a more sober affair these days, but you will still be handed the peştemal to wrap yourself in and the metal bowl to pour water over yourself. Attendants are also still available to give customers the vigorous and foamy scrub that removes layers of dead cells and leaves the skin as smooth as a baby’s bottom. Learn more about hamamsand pick a hamam from our beauty listings.

Bring your toes to life:

Now is the season for flip flops and sandals, so make sure your feet look the part before you put your boots away in storage. Get a pedicure and put on some lively nail polish. How about Pantone Honeysuckle?

Dress up your feet:

Now that your legs and feet look fantastic, get yourself a nice pair of sandals to show off what you’ve got. High-heeled or flat, opt for something that’s comfortable and sexy.

I am a Pilates master trainer, Gyrotonic certified Pre-trainer, Yoga instructor a USAT (United States of America Triathlons) certified Level 1 Triathlon coach as well as a Physical Therapist Assistant, so I can say that I may not know my burgers but I do know bodies. Unfortunately there is no magic potion, no cream or lotion, no little pill that you can take that will instantly give you the flat abs and toned physique we all long for. We have all heard the saying, “it’s easy, just eat less and exercise more!” Is it easy? Not in a city where on every street corner they are hawking freshly baked simit (circular sesame rings) and where you can’t even go to the hairdresser or to buy a carpet without the proprietor offering you something to eat or drink. Turkish hospitality is synonymous with food, so how can we stay fit?

The good news is, just like there is almost a seemingly endless choice of places and things to eat in Istanbul, there are also a wide array of activities and sports facilities to keep those simits from forming around our waists.

The single most important piece of advice I can give anyone about to embark on a fitness quest is to first get a check-up with a physician. Once you get the go ahead, the next thing I would advise is to find some physical activity you liketo do. A few years ago everyone was going to Pilates studios wanting to do Pilates. Why? Because it was modaor the “in thing” to do. Trying something new is a way of finding out if we enjoy it, so there is nothing wrong with starting something because it is popular. Still, I must reiterate what I said before: once you’ve tried it, make sure you likeit. An hour can fly by in a spin class if you like riding a stationary bike with loud music and a teacher yelling at you to turn the pedals faster. Nevertheless, if you aren’t a person who likes to sweat buckets while spinning your feet like an animated cartoon character, that hour can seem endless.

There are so many options in Istanbul for sports and since summer is coming I have decided to highlight a few activities that may help you reach your ideal bikini body.

Pilateshas been around for quite a while in Turkey and I opened the first Pilates studio in Turkey in 1999 at Planet Health Club in Kuruçeşme. Now, there are almost as many Pilates studios as there are simit vendors! Pilates has become increasingly popular and it is a great way to tone your body and fix postural problems. However, keep in mind that it is not an aerobic activity, so if you choose to do Pilates, you must make time during the week for some other activity that will raise your heart rate and help you achieve cardiac health and burn fat. Pilates is ideal for people who want to learn how their body works. A good Pilates teacher will teach their client all about anatomically correct movement and will explain any kind of postural problems the client may have and not be aware of.

Gyrotonicis another “new” fitness fad although it started almost 25 years ago. It is new in Turkey and I introduced it to Istanbulites 8 years ago. It is slowly catching on and I feel I must report that I have trained instructors in such far away cities as Diyarbakır where they are now teaching Gyrotonic, so trust me when I say it will be all the rage soon.

Gyrotonic is taught using a machine that looks more like it should be in a torture chamber than in a wellness center, but anyone who tries it says it feels like a massage. It is a series of 3 dimensional movements with the goal of liberating the spine and thereby creating a more functional and responsive body. Gyrotonic has the same caveat as Pilates; however it is not an aerobic exercise so it must be supplemented with some kind of cardiovascular activity as well.Gyrotonic is for the kind of person who likes to move organically and who learns through doing rather than “being taught”. It is also great for anyone with scoliosis or those of you who have suffered from a slipped disc in the past.

Yogaisn’t new and yet there are so many different kinds of yoga being taught that it seems like there is always something new and different to try. Ashtanga Yoga, Vinyasa Yoga, Hatha Yoga, Bikram Yoga and Anusara Yoga are just some alternatives. If you are a person who likes to focus on the spiritual side of things, Yoga is the way to go. Just like with Pilates, there are almost as many yoga studios as there are types of Yoga.Try them all and see which one suits you the best.

Fitness centersare popping up like mushrooms in Istanbul and just like mushrooms, they are equally as varied. They range from the basic to the sublime. If you are a member of a gym and haven’t been going, get yourself back in there! If you aren’t a member and are looking to become one, then look for one that is first and foremost convenient. Being a member of a gym does you no good if you can’t get there easily. Next look to make sure it has the primary things that you are looking for. If you like to swim, then look for a gym with a pool.Conversely, if you like to get massages, then choose one with a fully equipped spa. The majority of fitness centers in Istanbul are staffed with well trained and qualified instructors. Also, they are constantly offering new and exciting classes from aikido to zumba and they are everywhere – even at shopping malls! You can work out with your personal trainer, lose that extra weight and go buy yourself some new jeans afterwards! If you exercise your fingers and just flip to the back of this issue to THE LISTINGS section, you will find some of the more popular fitness centers listed.

What about those of you that don’t want to go to a gym or studio? What if along with your resolution to lose weight you are also resolved to be financially frugal and you don’t want to or have the means to take private lessons or join a fitness center? Then, how about getting back to the basics? That is - the great outdoors. Istanbul may seemlike a concrete jungle, but it’s not! For those of you - like me - who love to bike and run, there are miles upon miles of forest trails and seaside roads where you can pound the pavement or go for a spin. Riding a road bike can be a little daunting, but there are more and more velophiles here in Istanbul: you can see us riding in groups in the outskirts in Kemerburgaz or over by the Formula 1 racetrack on the Asian side of the city. For leisurely rides, the Asian side has great bike paths which are busy on the weekends.For mountain bike enthusiasts, Istanbul is full of great single tracks, switchbacks and mellow fire roads. Anyone interested in starting biking can go to a reputable bike shop like Kaçkar, Aktif Pedal or Yeşil Bisiklet where they can get you geared up and even give you information on where to go to ride. As for the runners among you, between the Belgrade Forest (Belgrad Ormanı) and the Bosphorus shoreline road there just isn’t much better running anywhere else to be found. All you need is a pair of sneakers and an iPod and you can run for miles.

If you are not sure how to start either biking or running or if you want to kick it up a notch and train for a marathon or even a triathlon, www.antrenmanyap.comis the first ever online training program that will be up and running by the end of January. The website is in Turkish and perfect for the Turkish readers of The Guide Istanbul. Tony Benson, the author of “Run with the Best”, Hunter Allen, Elite cycle coach and author of “Training and Racing with a Power Meter” as well as other USAT coaches have worked together with Turkish coaches to create an easy to use program for beginners to elite athletes.

With all these options, it’s hard to come up with an excuse not to exercise. As a result, hopefully in 2011 you will try a new sport to attain that “new” you.To quote Edward Stanley, “Those who think they don’t have time for exercise will sooner or later have to find time for illness.”

Ingredients

(Serves 4)

- 4 globe artichokes

For vinaigrette:( for 240 ml. / 8 fl. oz. / 1 cup sauce)

- 6 tablespoons lemon juice, freshly squeezed

- 2 tablespoons vinegar

- 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

- 1 tablespoons dill, finely chopped

- 1 ½ teaspoons sugar - Salt, to taste

- Ground black pepper, to taste

- 120 ml. / 4 fl. oz. / ½ cup virgin olive oil

- 1 hard-boiled egg

Preparation of vinaigrette:

1. Combine the lemon juice, vinegar, mustard, dill, sugar, salt and ground black pepper in a mixing bowl.
2. Whisk the ingredients together, and while still whisking, add the olive oil, a drizzle at a time. (This will gradually form a thick sauce.)
3. If desired, a finely chopped hard-boiled egg can be added to the vinaigrette.

Final preparation:

1. Remove the stem from the globe artichokes with a sharp knife, leaving the base flush.
2. At about halfway down, cut through the petals horizontally with sharp scissors.
3. Cut through the centre flower head (horizontally and at the same height), with a sharp knife.
4. Place the globe artichokes in a saucepan of boiling, salted water. (You may need to weigh them down by placing spoons over the artichokes.)
5. Simmer over medium heat for 35-40 minutes. (To test when the artichokes are cooked, pull on one of the outer petals, and if it comes away easily, it is ready.)
6. Drain when cooked, and leave sitting on their bases to cool.
7. Remove the center yellow petals.
8. With the aid of a knife, carefully remove the base of the flower head.
9. Place the globe artichokes in a soup bowl.
10. To serve, you may either place the vinaigrette beside in a small bowl or, alternatively, pour it into the center of the globe artichokes.

- Start by taking the outer petals, and dip them into the vinaigrette before removing the soft part with your teeth. Have a large empty plate at hand for the discarded petals.

- When the outer petals come to an end, pour the remaining vinaigrette into the center of the artichoke to enjoy “the heart”.

- This dish may be served as an entrée

Recipe From: Remix I

Preparation:
• Place water and bouillon cubes in a large saucepan and bring to a boil
• In a separate saucepan, melt butter and add the rice and stir slowly for 3 minutes
• Take a ladle of the simmering stock and pour into the rice, stirring until the liquid is absorbed
• Next, pour in another ladle of stock and repeat the process.
• After pouring in the 3rd ladle of stock, add the chopped herbs, lemon juice, salt and white wine.
• Continue with 4th ladle of stock and test the rice for consistency; if it not yet cooked, add in a 5th ladle of stock and remove from heat
• Add Parmesan cheese and stir
• Upon serving, sprinkle the remaining Parmesan cheese and garnish with grated lemon zest

Related Content:

Isn’t it Rice: A closer look at risotto and pilaf
Which is your Choice: Risotto or Pilaf?

Recipe From: Remix I

Preparation:
• Wash and strain the rice. Place in a pan, cover with boiling water and add a small quantity of salt and let it stand for 30 minutes. Next wash the rice in cold running water until the water is crystal clear.
• Melt the butter or heat the olive oil in a large saucepan, add chopped onions and sauté until they are transparent. Add the pine nuts and stir until they have taken on a pinkish hue. Then add the rice, currants, allspice, sugar and salt and stir.
• Pour in the water, bring to a boil and then lower to a simmer until the water is absorbed. Remove from the heat and add the chopped dill.
• Clean, wash, de-bone and dry the anchovies and flatten them by opening from the center.
• Grease a deep, oven proof round bowl. Coat the outer skin of the anchovies with corn flour and place them along the bowl’s edges with the tails facing upwards. On the center, pour in the rice (ensuring that the anchovies remain intact) and then continue placing the anchovies over the mixture until the entire bowl is covered with sardines.
• Cook in a preheated oven at 170 Celsius for 15 minutes. Remove and turn the bowl over in a serving dish – remove and serve while hot.

Related Content:

Isn’t it Rice: A closer look at risotto and pilaf
Which is your Choice: Risotto or Pilaf?