That being said, Istanbul still experiences the four seasons, and the best times to visit are between April-July (if you’re coming from the Southern hemisphere and are used to really warm weather) or September-October (if you’re coming from the Northern hemisphere and putting on a sweater or a light coat equals great weather for you).

If you don’t get too much time off work and must travel during Easter or Christmas, keep in mind that Istanbul tends to get quite crowded during those periods. The Grand Bazaar and many other sights close down during religious holidays, so do take this into consideration when planning your trip, especially if you'll be visiting only for a few days. Ramadan is the holiest month in the Islamic calendar, and during this month, many Muslims fast from sunrise to sunset, then come together with their families to break their fast in a meal called iftar. Ramadan in Istanbul is quite different than in most cities in the Islamic world. Turks take a far more relaxed approach to matters of eating and drinking in public. While many Turks do fast, restaurants stay open, and it is not forbidden to eat or drink in public, although many choose to be more discreet when eating, out of respect for those who are fasting. If you happen to visit Istanbul during this time of year, you may want to partake in an iftar dinner, as many people find this an interesting and enjoyable cultural experience, with many hotels offering iftar dinner.

If your visit to Istanbul entails more than sightseeing, here is a list of the best times to come:

If you’re an art lover:Istanbul has a lively and constantly-growing art scene, with many galleries and museums showcasing exceptional artworks. Although the weather may not be ideal, the best time for an art lover to visit Istanbul is during the fall (September-November) when the Istanbul Biennial (organized by IKSV) and Contemporary Istanbul take place. Keep in mind that many galleries close down during August, so if seeing galleries is a must for you, avoid this hottest month of the year. (When you’re in Istanbul, make sure to check out our Agenda for the current gallery exhibitions.)

If you’re a cinephile:Istanbul is home to many film festivals throughout the year. Organized by IKSV, the International Istanbul Film Festival takes place during spring (around April), while Filmekimi takes place in October. !f Istanbul International Independent Film Festival takes place every February and March, and Istanbul Animation Festival (organized by Pera Museum) takes place around November-December. The Akbank Short Film Festival has been organized in March in the past few years, but it was previously held in September and December, too, so do make sure to check out the upcoming festival dates.

If you’re a music lover:International names and local bands take the stage at many Istanbul venues throughout the year, especially in and around Beyoğlu. But all the exciting music festivals take place during the summer. Organized by IKSV, the Istanbul Music Festival takes place each year in June, while the Istanbul Jazz Festival takes place in July. Rock’n Coke Festival takes place once every two years in August or September. Efes Pilsen One Love Festival, which has brought the likes of Manic Street Preachers and Cake to Istanbul in the past years, takes place each year in July. Akbank Jazz Festival takes place around September-October. Chill-out Festival Istanbul, dedicated to chill-out and lounge music, and Freshtival, which brings together local and international names from experimental and indie music scenes, take place each year in May. The heavy metal festival Sonisphere is held in June while the Efes Pilsen Blues Festival takes place in November-December. The Istanbul Recitals takes place each year between October and June.

If you’re a cool hunter:The design industry in Istanbul is still growing, with a few design shops spread around the city. If you want to see what Turkish designers are up to, come to Istanbul during September to check out Istanbul Design Week. Organized by IKSV, the first Design Biennial will take place between 13 October – 12 December 2012, so keep an eye out for this in the upcoming years.

If you’re a fashionista: Galata is Istanbul’s fashion incubator, and is home to Galata Moda, a festival that showcases the works of established as well as up-and-coming Turkish designers, which usually takes place in December.Istanbul Fashion Week takes place twice a year, around September and February, with runway shows that dazzle.

If you’re a shopaholic: Istanbul has the Grand Bazaar, so we have shopping pretty much covered. But if you’re into brands and discounts, keep an eye out forShopping Fest, which takes place during spring or summer, offering major discounts all around the city. We also have Fashion’s Night Out in September for those who can’t get enough of the stores during regular working hours.

If you’re a drama queen:Istanbul Theater Festival, organized by IKSV, takes place around May-June.

The amount of Turkish that foreigners learn while they are in Istanbul is directly proportional to the length of and intentions during their stay. Even though Istanbul is an English-friendly city, if you are interested in immersing yourself in the real Turkish experience and live the colorful nuances of the Istanbul life, we at The Guide Istanbul highly recommend you learn some Turkish. So haydi bakalım, here’s a short guide on where and how to learn this language while in Istanbul.

Phrase Books for Short-term Visitors

Despite being spoken by more than 80 million native speakers, the majority of the population that speaks Turkish lives within the borders of Turkey. Therefore, your usage of the language is mostly dependent on the amount of time you spend in the country as you will get very few opportunities to practice it living elsewhere. So, the first thing that you have to consider before starting to learn Turkish is the amount of time you’ll spend in Turkey.

For tourists, backpackers, or businessmen spending a couple days to less than a few months in Turkey, phrase books can get quite handy. There are relatively few resources like phrase books, text books, and language-learning material for learning Turkish, possibly due to the comparatively fewer number of people who learn the language. Some phrasebooks, such as the ones by Berlitz, Just Enough, and Lonely Planet, are full of basic sentences that will help you get by in different kinds of situations that daily life in Turkey throws your way.

More serious learners who want to delve into the very interesting Turkish grammar might enjoy the Teach Yourself Turkish by David Pollard. The Rossetta Stone language-learning software is also very popular with the tech-savvy crowd. Websites like www.onlineturkish.com and www.turkishclass.com offer online courses (for a fee) and www.totally-turkish.com offers a range of resources (for free) that will allow you to gain a basic understanding of the language.

We also highly recommend asking your Turkish friends or colleagues to teach you some basic Turkish formalities that will definitively help you move around. Phrases like afiyet olsun (bon appetite), hoş geldiniz (welcome), and güle güle kullan (which is what you say to someone after a new purchase, literally meaning “use it whilst laughing”) are used ritually on specific occasions. The use of these sentences will surely charm every Turkish person you meet and enhance the level of hospitality you will receive wherever you go.

Turkish Lessons for Long-term Visitors

Exchange students, language teachers, scholars studying Turkish culture and society, foreigners married to Turks, and basically anyone planning on spending the majority of their next few years living in Turkey often look for Turkish lessons in order to gain enough conversational skills to integrate themselves into their new Turkish environment.

A number of language schools offer Turkish classes, from the intensive to the normal, from the beginner to the advanced levels. Two language schools, Dilmer and Tomer, have a reputation for being the best places to learn Turkish in a class (usually of approximately 10-15 people). These two schools have produced their own Turkish teaching material and employ some of the best teachers in town. The language departments of various universities, such as Istanbul University and Boğaziçi University, also offer good intensive Turkish courses.

Studying with a private tutor is a less social but possibly more effective way of learning the language. Though usually more expensive than classes, private tutoring offers a more flexible schedule and more focus on individual needs that sometimes classes can’t provide. There is a network of highly qualified people working as private Turkish tutors in the city. The best recommendation is to ask your friends for information about these teachers as their students are usually passed through word of mouth and they don’t always publicize their services. An option to find a Turkish language teacher is to look on Craigslist where teachers usually post their offers.

All of the Above for Serious Students

If you really want to master the language, we recommend a combination of all previously mentioned learning opportunities plus some other options that could supplement your learning (as well as your social life). Language exchanges are becoming quite popular among young people eager to practice their conversational skills and writing skills in foreign languages. There are different clubs in language institutes, such as Goethe, Cervantes, and French Cultural Center. Through the networks of these institutes, you can find someone eager to practice their English with you as you get to practice your Turkish with them. Many young foreigners also participate in meetings and parties that these institutes arrange every now and then where they meet up with young Turkish people in a café or bar to practice languages. Also, reading in Turkish highly improves your vocabulary skills. You can follow the news in Turkish newspapers and get books with different degrees of difficulty. Listening to Turkish music or following the latest soap opera on TV will definitively give you another highly entertaining way to practice the language.

Idioms are probably the most beautiful and colorful characteristic of the Turkish language. There is an idiom for probably every occasion that will fully capture the idiosyncrasies of life in Turkey. A Turkish idiom about the best way to learn another language goes “Dil dile değmeden dil öğrenilmez,” which translates into something like “you can’t learn another language without kissing someone that speaks that language.” And though we at The Guide don’t take this advice literally, we definitively recommend that the best way to learn a language is by making good friendships with people you can practice Turkish. We promise that as you learn Turkish you will see Turkey and its people with a whole new perspective.

Tips

- Phrase books are good up to a point. Your Turkish will soon get stuck if you don’t learn some grammar basics.

- Know yourself and use a combination of methods to suit your own personal preferences and needs. Some people like reading more than going to courses. Others prefer focusing on their speaking rather than their writing. Do whatever works for you.

- Avoid other foreigners, or at least be very disciplined about how much time you spend with them. It is easy to avoid speaking Turkish by only hanging out with people who speak English or another language you might speak. If you really want to learn Turkish, you have to immerse yourself in it.

- Travel eastwards. As you leave Istanbul you will meet fewer people who speak English and you will be forced to speak Turkish. As you travel around, you can also learn about all the different dialects.

- Don’t be shy. Turkish people love to hear a foreigner speak their language and, though you will make mistakes, they will always help you and embolden you to keep on speaking.

Unlike other European cities, where room sharing and apartment buying are eased by numerous comprehensive search websites, Istanbul doesn’t offer too many well-known search options. Nevertheless, finding an apartment is possible for foreigners, as demonstrated by the large number of expatriates moving to the city and successfully building new lives for themselves. Whether you’re traveling alone and looking for the excitement of a bustling neighborhood, or settling down with a family and seeking neighborhoods that are safe and convenient, Istanbul has something to offer.

The following is a List of Resources that will lead you to your new home:

Personal recommendations:For the single traveler, the most common resource for finding a room is through other expats. Many expats have, during their time living in Istanbul, developed an extensive network of friends, acquaintances, and previous roommates. Within your personal network, scour for friends or friends of friends living in Istanbul and ask if they know of someone with an available room. Another option is to contact a language school in Istanbul, where many expats work as English teachers. They may be able to provide helpful advice.

Craigslist:If personal contacts lead nowhere, the next best option is to search Craigslist, which is also a resourceful website for families. While Craigslist is not as common in Istanbul as it is in American or European cities, the website does offer surprisingly good results for apartment searches in Istanbul. You can either respond to apartment listings or create your own posting to find your perfect dwelling in Istanbul. A self-made posting for a room in Kadıköy recently led this author to over 20 responses with senders’ descriptions of their available rooms.

Real estate websites:For families looking for an apartment, real estate websites are the best bet. Hürriyet Emlak, for instance, lists homes and apartments for rent and sale all throughout the city. With English and Turkish options, Hürriyet Emlakand Sahibinden allow you to refine your search by selecting your apartment criteria.

Now that you have several apartment-hunting resources at your hands, Where Should You Live? As the only city in the world spanning two continents, Istanbul presents several options for expats but budgetary restrictions, spatial preferences, as well as a need for mobility in a city notorious for its traffic, will narrow one’s neighborhood options down quite a bit.

Before walking around Istanbul’s many neighborhoods,helpful may be an understanding of the country’s geographical organization. Turkey is divided intoprovinces called il, which are further divided into “cities” called ilçe. Ilçe’s are then divided into districts called semt. (For anyone familiar with New York City, the city of New York would be an il, the five boroughs would be ilçe’s, and Astoria and Jackson Heights semt’s.) While we often consider Istanbul a city, it is technically an il, and its various neighborhoods Beşiktaş, Beyoğlu, Eminönü, and Kadıköy ilçe’s. The semt’s of Istanbul would be Cihangir, Levent, Nişantaşı, Galatasaray, and Etiler. (Note that sometimes the names of ilçe’s and semt’s can overlap, like in Beşiktaş and Kadıköy.) The neighborhoods of Istanbul—both ilçe’s and semt’s—are extraordinarily diverse, not only in their history and architecture but also in their local activities and pace of life. In the list below, you will find the neighborhoods most popular among Istanbul’s expats.

Beşiktaş:Populated by both students and families, Beşiktaş is a bustling and central neighborhood with great access to public transportation. It is close to many Boshprous neighborhoods (like Bebek, Arnavutköy, and Ortaköy) as well as Nişantaşı and Beyoğlu. Chaos floods the streets, which are also lined with tacky restaurants and shops. But in the neighborhood’s chaos many foreign residents have found, in addition to low-priced apartments, a certain charm. Buildings are generally new, offering renovated rooms with large windows and wide space.

Galata:Once a quiet neighborhood with artisan shops, Galata has since undergone gentrification, leading to a steep hike in rental rates. Still, expats flock here for its history and beauty. Several art galleries have also popped up in recent years, leading to a vibrant art scene. In Galata, residents are close to Istanbul’s nightlife in the nearby Şişhane neighborhood, Asmalımescit, and Tünel, and the greater İstiklal Caddesi surrounds. Galata's history is reflected in old buildings with ornate wall moldings, wooden flooring, and chandeliers. Rooms are also spacious with high ceilings and great wall-to-wall width. Even though you won't find supermarkets around Galata, the small markets will offer a variety of expat-friendly products, like lime and coconut milk. Due to its proximity to public transportation (especially the subway line), this area serves as a practical area for those without a car. Keep in mind, however, that the area is quite hilly.

Cihangir:Similar to Galata, Cihangir is a popular destination for Istanbul’s art set. Quiet and residential with sometimes stunning views of the sea, Cihangir has attracted some of Istanbul’s most well-known artists, including soap opera stars, novelists, and painters. But expats, too, have called Cihangir home, leading to an interesting mix of crowds in local restaurants and bars. While Cihangir has long undergone gentrification and therefore seen some very high rents, with the right amount of luck one can find a good deal in this area. And if you’re really lucky, you may even find an apartment in a historical building with seaside windows and balconies offering stunning views. Even if you can't, the bustling social scene, the great restaurants, and the proximity to Taksim Square will be enough.

Kadıköy:Quieter and slower in pace, Kadıköy is often seen as a break from the chaotic European side. Though largely residential, small cafes and restaurants lining the neighborhood streets give some feeling of bustle to this Asian Side neighborhood. With apartments at low rental rates and diverse offerings in room size—many with great wall-to-wall and floor-to-ceiling space—Kadıköy is certainly the neighborhood that gives residents the most bang for their buck. Apartments with front- and back-side gardens add to residents’ feeling of living in a quainter, more residential Istanbul. The area is very close to ferry stops and other public transport, which makes it quite easy to access the rest of Istanbul.

Etiler:Etiler is one of Istanbul’s most modern neighborhoods, boasting the perks of many Western cities with its malls, sports clubs, and modern apartment buildings. For this reason, Etiler is also one of the priciest areas to live in. Situated close to Levent, Istanbul’s business district, Etiler makes itself a sensible option for anyone on business in Istanbul. The area’s new apartment buildings offer its residents large spaces and the proximity to a wide variety of restaurants and businesses.

Zekeriyaköy:A quiet and greener area located on Istanbul’s northern seacoast, Zekeriyaköy makes itself a great location for anyone seeking a more suburban-like environment. With the arrival of modern villas next to the old town, Zekeriyaköy has become home to both celebrities and well-known businessmen alike. Several popular restaurants, including Fincan and Tike, in addition to a weekly bazaar selling local produce, can be found in Zekeriyaköy. With its spacious rooms and picturesque scenery, Zekeriyaköy’s primeness will certainly show in its housing prices.

Kemerburgaz: Located approximately 30 minutes away from central Istanbul, Kemerburgaz is Istanbul’s first neighborhood with an American suburbia-like environment. After the establishment of Kemer Country (the first of the many modern suburban complexes in Kemerburgaz) in the early 2000s, the area has grown and turned into a full-blown suburban town with a wide range of cafes, restaurants, and sports facilities that makes Kemer a self-sufficient and highly attractive area, especially for young families.

Pricing

In all the neighborhoods on our list, you can expect to find a two-bedroom apartment for rent for approximately 2,000TL (plus or minus 500 TL). The quality of the apartment for this price, however, will differ greatly from one neighborhood to another. For example, a 2,000TL apartment in Galata is highly likely to be quite small and old, whereas the same price will get you a clean, modern, and spacious apartment in Beşiktaş or Kadıköy. In most neighborhoods (especially Cihangir, Galata, Etiler, and Kemerburgaz), you’ll witness prices skyrocket when a fantastic view is included in the apartment, and you’ll see the pricing change from TL to Euro or Dollar.

Here are some expat-friendly places, faces, and spaces to keep the excitement burning and the city perpetually welcoming.

Everything Istanbul

As if Istanbul weren’t overwhelming enough for a local, the transition from a bright-eyed newcomer waiting for the Havaş at the Atatürk Airport to a trans-continental coasting, çay-chugging, street-cat-immunity bearing de facto Turk can’t be done alone. The Guide Istanbul is as detailed, forward, and all-encompassing as it gets. It is the go-to resource for all expats, travelers, and Turks alike, with reliable, up-to-date information, a flair for creative, hole-in-the-wall finds, and a voice that speaks to us all. The Guide Istanbul is devoted to giving you the opportunity to enjoy Istanbul completely, with visuals to motivate, stories to fascinate, and reviews to lure.

Connect

First things first. The best way to keep in touch is to find others who are looking for the same thing: a community. Any question you may have about integrating in the city can be answered by the following websites and their forums. From questions about visas and documents to finding a tennis partner, these portals should be bookmarked in every expat’s laptop.

CouchSurfing.com: This is great for meeting other expats in the city. Technically, it is for finding a place to crash for free (and this is strictly enforced across the site), but it has turned into something of a social network for travelers and expats alike.

SublimePortal.com: Check out blogs and interact with other expats here.

AlloExpat.com: General forum to connect expats with expats.

BritishExpat.com: If you are British, this site is geared towards you!

ExpatExchange.com: This site is focused on the initial jump, which includes paperwork, finding housing, language resources, and connecting with others.

Expatriates.com: Imagine craigslist, but for expats…

Meetup.com: People from all over the world coordinate, well, meeting up! This is a great place to find people with similar interests or who are simply in the same area.

The Professional American Women of Istanbul (PAWI), www.pawistanbul.com: Bringing together the women of the city, this organization is a great way to stay connected on and off line.

The International Women of Istanbul (IWI), http://www.iwi-tr.org/: This non-profit, social organization brings together international women of all ages and cultures.

Theater

The Square Peg Theatre Group is an expat community theater group located in Tarlabaşı that hosts play rehearsals, theater workshops, writing workshops, small exhibitions, poetry readings, movie nights, open mic nights, Art After Dark, and small staged theatrical shows. Brought to life by donations and volunteers, the theater is growing in presence by enthusiastic participation and no lack of talent. Contact the space at thespaceistanbul@gmail.com, and visit its website,squarepegistanbul.com for more information and pictures as well as to meet its founders and leading participants.

Nightlife

While conceivably everywhere in Istanbul will cater to expats, the following bars, pubs, and clubs as well as restaurants are notorious for their worldly patrons.

Ritim: Ritim is a 4-floor bar, restaurant, and club that offers a taste of music and company from around the world.İstiklal Caddesi, Nevizade MevkiiBalıkPazarı No:20, Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 249 0252

Romeo & Juliet: Expats are no stranger to this outdoor/indoor bar/club that provides opportunity to dance, chill or listen to live bands.Evliya Çelebi Mah. Refik Saydam Cad. No.15A - 17A, Asmalımescit; P: (0212) 243 6565

Grand Hotel de Londres: For an afternoon drink amidst an exquisite design reminiscent of the 1900s, the Grand Hotel de Londres oftentimes finds one in company of other native English speakers.Meşrutiyet Caddesi. No: 53, Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 2450670

Lokal: AnItalian restaurant that turns into a lively and crowded bar/club afterhours, Lokal is a go-to expat destination. Tünel Meydanı No.186/A, Tünel; P: (0212) 245 40 28

Leb-i-Derya: Panoramic views of the Bosphorus & parts of the Old City and delicious cocktails makes Leb-i-Derya a regular spot for expats and tourists. Be warned though: the view is very romantic, and you’ll find that most tables are reserved for two. Kumbaracı Yokuşu No. 57/6, Tünel; P: (0212) 293 49 89

Balkon: Jazz and bossa nova lovers head here during the day, while at night it’s all about funky house and the oldies.Asmalımescit Mah. Sehbender Sok. No. 5 Kat: 6, Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 293 2052

Riddim: In a city where a club devoted to R&B and hip hop is rare, it is no wonder Riddim attracts a steady American clientele.SıraselvilerCaddesi No: 69, Taksim; P: (0212) 251 2723

Annual International Events

For a few occasions each year, Istanbul is the center of global attention. In a country fraught with up and coming artists of its own, its no wonder Istanbul attracts the attention of some of the world’s greatest artists, actors, singers and designers as well as contributes its own talent to the mix. These events put Istanbul on the map, bringing expats closer to an international context.

Istanbul International Film Festival, film.iksv.org/en: This event is held in March-April each year.

Istanbul International Theater Festival, tiyatro.iksv.org/en: This event is held in May-June, attracting more than 20,000 visitors per year.

Istanbul International Music Festival, muzik.iksv.org/en: This event is held in June-July and features ballet, opera, and classical music performances.

Istanbul International Jazz Festival, jazz.iksv.org/en: For more than 20 years, this early-July event attracts high-profile jazz performers from around the world.

Istanbul Fashion Week, ifw.com.tr: Taking place annually in February and September, Istanbul Fashion Week showcases more than 20 Istanbul designers and attracts international attention.

Istanbul Design Biennial, tasarimbienali.iksv.org/en: The first Istanbul Design Biennial will take center stage between 13 October – 12 December 2012, marking the beginning of many design biennials to come.

Istanbul Biennial, 12b.iksv.org/en: Assembling contemporary art from around the world for the public to view, the Istanbul Biennial centers around a theme that inspires discussion.

Contemporary Istanbul, contemporaryistanbul.com: Contemporary Istanbul brings together numerous contemporary art galleries from all over the world, with exhibitions, publications, initiatives, and other art-related presentations on display.

Network, Network, Network

The name of the game is to keep your ears and eyes open, your friendships growing, and your affiliation with Istanbul’s various social groups alive. The city will continue to present opportunities to be creative, to have a crazy night out with other internationals and Turks alike, as well as to forge professional relationships through social networking.

The city’s major international airport is Istanbul Atatürk Havalimanı (Atatürk Airport), which is located in Yeşilköy (approximately 20 km/12 miles from Taksim Square) on the European side of Istanbul.

Transportation to and from the airport is possible with taxis, buses, and metro.

Taxis

You can’t miss the bright orange taxis as they line up on the street at the exit of the airport. As of 18 December 2010, the taxi meter starts with 2.5 TL and adds 1.4 TL per kilometer thereafter. You must add bridge crossing and toll fees to the meter (currently, it costs 3.6 TL for bridge crossing). The approximate cost to go to Taksim Square is 25 TL.

Please note that there is no extra charge for your luggage and you do not have to tip the driver. You only have to pay the price shown on the meter. However, if the driver has helped you with your luggage, you might want to give him a small tip—we recommend a maximum of 5 TL (the tip does not have to be proportional with the total on the meter).

HAVAŞ Buses

The private Havaş bus service offers rings between the airport and central locations in Istanbul.

European Side:Havaş buses to and from Taksim Square operate between 1am-4am and leave every 30 minutes. The price for the Taksim-Atatürk Airport and Atatürk Airport-Taksim routes is 10 TL.

Asian Side:Havaş buses to and from Kozyatağı operate between 1am-4am every hour for 17 TL. The Havaş buses also operate to and from Bakırköy, mainly to cater to passengers coming from and going to Bostancı. The buses to Bakırköy leave from the airport 20 minutes before the sea bus from Bostancı arrives in Bakırköy. The charge for this route is 5TL.

IETT (Public Buses)

Bus line 96T frequently circles between the Taksim Square and Istanbul Atatürk Airport, with stops in Bakırköy, Zeytinburnu, Fatih, and Beyoğlu.

The last stop on this route will drop you off at Taksim Square.

Metro & Tram

The M1 metro line operates between Aksaray and the airport with stops including Aksaray, Topkapı, Bayrampaşa, Esenler Otogarı, Merter, Zeytinburnu, Bahçelievler, Ataköy, and Yenibosna.

In order to get to Sultanahmet, get off at the Zeytinburnu stop on the M1 line and transfer to the T1 line. Get off at the Sultanahmet stop on the T1 line, which operates between Zeytinburnu and Kabataş with stops in Topkapı, Beyazıt, Çemberlitaş, Sultanahmet, Eminönü, Tophane, and more.

In order to get to Taksim, after you change from the M1 line to the T1 line, stay on the T1 line until the last stop (Kabataş) and change there to the F1 line (the funicular), which will take you straight to Taksim Square.

In order to get to Levent and surrounds, change to the M2 line after your get off the funicular (F1 line) in Taksim.

SABİHA GÖKÇEN AIRPORT

Istanbul’s second international airport is Sabiha Gökçen located on the Asian side in Pendik.

Transportation to and from the Sabiha Gökçen Airport (SAW) is possible with taxis and buses.

Taxis

Taxis are available outside the airport. A trip to Taksim would cost approximately 50 TL.

HAVAŞ Buses

European Side:Buses to Taksim Square operate between 12am-4am and buses from Taksim Square operate between 1am-4am. The buses leave every 30 minutes and the price for this route is 13 TL.

Asian Side:Buses from Kozyatağı operate between 1am-4am and buses to Kozyatağı operate between 12am-4am. The buses leave every hour and cost 10 TL.

IETT (Public Buses), Metro, and Tram

There are 4 bus lines frequently running between the airport and central parts of the city.

European Side:Line E3 will take you to and from the 4.Levent metro station with stops in Pendik, Sultanbeyli, Sancaktepe, Çekmeköy, Ümraniye, Beykoz, and Beşiktaş.

To get to Taksim Square, take the E3 bus all the way to the 4. Levent metro station. Get on the M2 line and get off at Taksim Square.

To get to Sultanahmet, change to the F1 line (the funicular) at Taksim Square and get off at Kabataş. There, transfer to the T1 line and get off at the Sultanahmet stop.

Asian side:Line E9 will take you to Kadıköy with stops in Kartal and Maltepe. Line E10 will take you to Kadıköy with stops in Pendik, Kartal, Maltepe, and Üsküdar. Line 16S will take you to Kadıköy Metrobus station with stops in Pendik, Kartal, and Maltepe.

DUTY FREE LIMITS

Limits for arrival (per person) are: 2 cartons of cigarettes or 100 items of cigarillos or 50 items of cigars or 250 grams of shredded tobacco or 250 grams of pipe tobacco. Only 1 liter is permitted for alcoholic beverages that contain 20\\% alcohol (whiskey, rakı, etc.) and 2 liters are permitted for beverages with less than 20\\% alcohol (wine, champagne, etc.). The maximum number of perfume bottles you can bring is 5. The limit for tea, instant coffee, coffee, candies, and chocolate is 1 kg each.

Limits for departure (per person) are: 6 cartons of cigarettes or 300 items of cigarillos or 150 items of cigars or 750 grams of shredded tobacco or 750 grams of pipe tobacco. Three liters of alcoholic beverages containing more than 20\\% alcohol and 6 liters of those with less than 20\\% alcohol are permitted. No more than 15 bottles of perfume can be taken out. Tea, instant coffee, coffee, candies, and chocolate are allowed up to 3 kg each.

CUSTOMS

There is no limit on the amount of foreign currency or Turkish lira that you can bring into Turkey. The maximum amount you can have with you when leaving Turkey is US$5,000 or its TL equivalent.

Weather

Istanbul has a temperate climate with cold and dry winters and hot and humid summers. Between December and March, Istanbul is cold, rainy, windy, and mostly grey with temperatures averaging 4°C (39°F). Snow showers are common, usually occurring at least once a year. During summer, temperatures average 25-30°C (78-88°F), and most days are sunny with blue skies. Rainfall is rare, and humidity makes it feel much hotter, especially in August. The best weather is in spring and fall; from April to mid-June, days are temperate and evenings are cool. From mid-September to November, the city is colder but still pleasant, although a bit rainy and windy.

Drugs

Illegal possession, use, or sale of all types of drugs is strictly forbidden in Turkey.

Smoking

Smoking is prohibited at all enclosed public areas in Turkey, including bars, cafés, and restaurants. The smoke ban also applies to all forms of public transportation. If you get caught smoking at a smoke-free zone, you will be charged a fine.

Drinking

The rules and regulations surrounding alcohol consumption have recently changed. The legal age for buying alcohol is 18; however, those under the age of 24 can’t attend events, organizations, or parties that are sponsored by alcoholic beverage firms.

Public Toilets

Public toilets are found all over Istanbul with entrances marked as “Bayan WC” for women and “Bay WC” for men. It’s a good idea to carry a pack of tissues as toilet rolls are often out. You will often come across ‘a la turca’ facilities (comprising of a hole on the floor), especially in touristy areas. However, hotels, restaurants, bars, and shopping malls all have Western-style (a la franga) facilities.

Tipping

-Taxis:You don’t have to tip taxi drivers. The only time a tip would be appropriate is if you have luggage and the driver has assisted you with them. The maximum amount recommended is 5 TL.

-Restaurants:Some restaurants include tip in the check. When the tip is not included, a 10\\\% tip is considered the norm.

-Hotels:Recommended tips for bellboys is 5-10 TL, depending on the hotel that you’re staying at and the amount of luggage you have.

Time

Turkey is 2 hours ahead of GMT. The 24-hour clock is used. Day-light savings run from the last Sunday in March to the last Sunday in October.

Voltage

Turkey uses 220 V, European-style rounded tip two-prong plugs. Check in advance whether you’ll need an adaptor and/or transformer.

Opening Hours

Museums are generally open between 9am-5pm. Private businesses are usually open from 9am-6pm, government offices from 8am-5pm. Most shops are open from 9am to 7-8pm, and they are closed on Sundays. Shopping malls are usually open from 10am-10pm.

Home & Personal services

Istanbul is a very practical place to deal with repairs and cleaning services for many household needs. There are many craftsmen with specialized skill sets that offer high-quality services, often at prices that are far lower than what you would normally get abroad. Every neighborhood will have at least one electrician, plumber, locksmith, tailor, cobbler, watch repair shop and dry cleaner, and more specialized services are available throughout the city. Check our Home & Personal Services listings to find services near you.

Laundromats & Dry Cleaners

There are many laundromats (çamaşırhane) and dry cleaners (kuru temizleme) spread around Istanbul. Some Laundromats offer fixed rates, while others charge based on weight. Check our Home & Personal Services listings for a list of dry cleaners and laundromats.

Mail Services

Turkish post offices are spread around the city and can be recognized by their yellow and blue PTT signs.

For visitors without a permanent address, the post office offers ‘poste restante’ services. In order to collect your mail, you’ll need to have your passport with you and pay a small fee. The main post offices in Istanbul are located in Sirkeci and Taksim. Visit http://www.ptt.gov.tr/en/to find a post office near you.

Phone Services

Most payphones in Istanbul operate with a phone card which can be purchased at any Post Office (PTT) or from street vendors (who charge a commission). Some payphones also accept tokens (jeton), although these are increasingly rare.

You will find selling points for the three major GSM operators (Turkcell, Vodafone, and Avea) at almost every central location and shopping mall. The options of pre-paid and post-paid SIM cards are available in all the operators, which allow you to make and receive international calls, send text messages, and also offer 3G and internet services. Phone credit for pre-paid SIM cards can be purchased online as well as from official GSM operator shops and most kiosks.

It is possible to set a fixed phone line from Türk Telekom once you have a residence permit. Visiting the nearest post office branch with your passport, bank details, and proof of address will be enough to get a new phone line. If you are renting or buying property with an existing phone line, check for any previous unpaid bills.

Istanbul Area Codes

Phone lines in Istanbul have two different area codes for the European side and the Asian side, though they only need to be dialed if the call is made from the opposite side. Remember to dial 0212 for your calls to the European side when you are on the Asian side and 0216 for the Asian side when you are on the European side.

International Dialing Code

The international dialing code to call Turkey from abroad is (+90) followed by the area code and the number.When calling abroad from Turkey, you must first dial the international code (00) followed by the country code.

Useful Numbers

Telephone Directory/Enquiries: 11833

Telephone Repair: 121

Tourist info line (for Turkey): 170

Women Visitors

Istanbul is a paradox; in some respects, it is as laid back and cosmopolitan as any major European city, in others, still marred by lechery towards and disapproval of Western women (although this is largely confined to specific pockets of the city). The areas surrounding Beyoğlu, Bebek, Nişantaşı, Etiler, and Ortaköy are very Western and women dress pretty much as they please without any undue attention drawn to them. Sadly, in Sultanahmet, where most of the tourist attractions are located, Western tourists often become targets, being hassled to buy the shopkeepers’ wares and, if a woman, probably stared at and possibly verbally-harassed. Don’t wear short skirts, shorts, or skimpy tops in Sultanahmet (particularly as you will most likely visit mosques, where you might not be allowed in if you are inappropriately dressed, and not wearing a head scarf), and certainly dress modestly, with shoulders covered, in the religious areas of Fatih and Balat, further inland from Sultanahmet. If you do get hassled, ignore it. If it persists, you should try saying “Ayıp” (Shame on you), but do not get drawn into any kind of dialogue. Try to avoid eye contact and walk away. Realistically, you will not encounter anything worse here than you might encounter in other Mediterranean countries—expect something along the lines of the attention you would get in a Southern Italian town. Don’t let it spoil your experience of a wonderful city!

Disabled Access

Istanbul has improved in terms of disabled access recently, but sadly there are certain areas still lacking, and the very nature of Istanbul makes it difficult for wheelchair users with its uneven, cobbled, narrow streets, very steep hills, and huge volumes of pedestrian crowds and road traffic. Most hotels, apart from the really high-end ones, do not have provisions for wheelchair users. However, the majority of the public transport system has been improved—most Metro stations now have lifts, the trams and light railways are wheelchair-accessible, and there are two bus lines which are designed for wheelchair users (the 222 operating the Topkapı-Emirgan route and the 28T operating the Pendik-Kadıköy route). In addition to this, 450 “low-riding” Mercedes buses have been introduced to the bus system, which facilitate wheelchair use. Ferries built post-2008 also accommodate wheelchairs.

Turkish National Holidays

During national holidays, banks and governmental offices are closed. Restaurants and shops do not close; in fact, they tend to be more crowded than usual.

January 1: New Year’s Day

April 23: National Sovereignty and Children’s Day (Ulusal Egemenlik ve Çocuk Bayramı)

May 1: Labor Day (Işçi Bayramı)

May 19: Atatürk Commemoration and Youth & Sports Day (Atatürk’ü Anma Gençlik ve Spor Bayramı)

August 30: Victory Day (Zafer Bayramı)

October 29: Republic Day (Cumhuriyet Bayramı)

Turkish Religious Holidays

The dates of religious holidays change every year as they are based on the Islamic calendar. Most banks will be closed during the religious holidays but you may find some branches open on the second or third day. The government offices are closed all through the holidays.

The dates for 2011 are as follows:

August 30-September 1: Ramadan Feast (Ramazan Bayramı)

November 6-9: Sacrifice Feast (Kurban Bayramı)

Drinking Water

Tap water is not used as drinking water; we recommend that you drink bottled water.

Emergencies & Health Services

Istanbul has some world-class hospitals and medical facilities, as well as many excellent doctors who speak English. Check our Emergencies & Health Serviceslistings to find clinics, medical centers, doctors, hospitals, and more.

Following is a list of emergency phone numbers:

Ambulance:112

Air Ambulance:(0212) 592 88 27

Night Ambulance:(0212) 240 39 14

International Hospital Ambulance:(0212) 663 30 00

International SOS Assistance:(0212) 230 96 38

Police:155

Fire:110

Pharmacies

Pharmacies in Turkey are independently owned, with several small pharmacies located in every neighborhood. They are easily recognizable with a large “E” or “Eczane” sign in red and white. Pharmacies take turns staying open on Sundays and throughout the night; therefore, local 24-hour service is always available. The information for the nöbetçi eczane (the pharmacy that is on call on evenings and Sundays) is posted on all local pharmacies’ windows.

Pharmacists in Turkey are qualified to provide certain basic medical services, such as cleaning and bandaging minor wounds, giving injections, measuring blood pressure, and suggesting medication for common ailments.

Many medications that are available by prescription-only in other countries are available over-the-counter in Turkey. Upon request, some larger pharmacies will order medication from abroad. Check our Emergencies & Health Serviceslistings to find a pharmacy near you.

Tourism police

The Tourism Police department is where visitors report passport loss and theft as well as any criminal activity that they have been a victim of. The staff can reportedly speak English, German, French, and Arabic.

Address:Yerebatan Caddesi No. 6, Sultanahmet (they are located between the Hagia Sophia and the Basilica Cistern);Phone: (0212) 527 45 03

Istanbul is quite big and, more often than not, you will need some sort of vehicle to get around the city. Some semi-pedestrian areas, such as Istiklal Caddesi, offer pleasant walking routes especially when they are not as crowded (as they always are on weekends) and when the weather is nice. The tourist spots in Sultanahmet, the Bazaar Quarter, and Beyoğlu are perfect for exploring on foot.

When walking around the city, keep in mind that Istanbul’s streets may not be as ordered and easy to navigate on foot as you might think. You may find that some neighborhoods are lacking in pavements or that the pavements are too narrow or damaged. A good tip is to always look where you are going as unexpected holes and dents can be found around the city—even in the most posh neighborhoods. Keep in mind that Istanbul’s streets are not made with mothers in mind, so it is quite difficult to go around with a stroller in most areas. You should also take note that Istanbulian drivers can be notoriously reckless and often do not stop for pedestrians—even at pedestrian crossings—which is why you should always exercise extreme caution, even when crossing at lights.

Taxis

Taxis are bright yellow cars with a ‘Taksi’ sign on the roof. You won’t have a problem finding a taxi day or night, and they can be hailed on the street at any time or found at taxi ranks. It is advisable to catch a licensed taxi from a taxi rank late at night. Taxi drivers are not always streetwise and it is usual for them to ask for directions from other drivers or shop owners, so it’s wise to carry a map. Since most drivers don’t speak any English, it’s also a good idea to have your destination written down.

As of 18 December 2010, the taxi meter starts with 2.5 TL and adds 1.4 TL per kilometer thereafter. You must add bridge crossing and toll fees to the meter (currently, it costs 3.6 TL for bridge crossing).Tipping is not necessary; however, you can round off the meter cost to the nearest hundred.

If you experience any improper behavior, call the taxi Complaint line (0212) 456 578 9.

Dolmuş

Dolmuş is a form of shared transportation commonly used by locals. Dolmuş can either be yellow station wagons (mainly on the Asian side) or blue minibuses (mainly on the European side). These vehicles run on a fixed route (which is displayed on the vehicle’s front and side windows). You may have to wait after you get on the dolmuş, as drivers will usually set off when the vehicle is full. You can get on or get off a dolmuş pretty much anywhere along the route by informing the driver. These shared taxis offer a cheaper option than taxis and a more frequent schedule than buses. Dolmuş usually operate until the evening and some major routes (such as the ones from the Asian Side to Taksim Square) operate until late.

Dolmuş don’t have stops like buses. To get on a dolmuş, stand on the side of the road on a dolmuş route, and hold your hand out as if hailing a taxi. As you’re getting on the dolmuş, double check with the driver to make sure that the dolmuş will stop at your desired destination. Once you get on, take a seat (if there is any space left), state your destination, and pass the money to the driver or to the person sitting in front of you (who will pass it along to the driver). When you want to get off, shout out “inecek var”.

The distance that you will travel determines the fare, which will range between 1-2 TL and 7-8 TL.

European Side:

The routes on the European Side are as follows:

Bakırköy-Taksim

Bakırköy-Şişli

Cevizlibağ-Taksim

Topkapı-Taksim

Beşiktaş-Taksim

Asian Side:

All the dolmuş leaving from the Asian Side to the European Side take off from Bağdat Caddesi. The routes between the Asian Side and the European side are as follows:

Kadıköy-Taksim

Bostancı-Taksim

Kadıköy-Şişli

Bostancı-Şişli

Kadıköy-Nişantaşı

The dolmuş also operates between the neighborhoods on the Asian Side. These can be hailed on the Sahil Yolu. The routes are as follows:

Üsküdar-Kadıköy

Üsküdar-Bağlarbaşı

Kadıköy-Bağlarbaşı

Üsküdar-Beykoz

City Buses

City buses are plentiful and in various colors (blue, red, green). Green and red buses require that you have an Akbil to get on board, while the blue ones allow you to pay cash. (See the Akbil section for more info.) The buses offer numerous routes around the city and are an inexpensive option. Keep in mind that buses tend to be quite crowded and you may have to wait extended periods of time. The local transport authority IETT’s website (http://iett.gov.tr/en/) offers detailed information on routes and maps in English.

Metro

Istanbul has a small but well-functioning metro system that started operating in 2000.

M1 line:This line operates between Atatürk International Airport and Aksaray.

M2 line: This line operates between Şişhane and Darüşşafaka with stops in Şişhane, Taksim Square, and Levent (the business district of Istanbul).

Trams and Funiculars

Tünel Funicular: The world’s second oldest underground cable-car is the Tünel Funicular that operates between Karaköy and Tünel Square every few minutes. This short run costs 2.50 TL.

F1 Funicular line:This line operates between Taksim Square and Kabataş. (You can transfer to the T1 line at Kabataş—see below—to get to Sultanahmet.)

T1 Tram Line:This line operates between Kabataş and Zeytinburnu, with stops throughout the old city.

Nostalgic Trams

Taksim-Tünel Tram: This 19^th-century tram connects Tünel Square and Taksim Square, running the length of Istiklal Street.

T3 Tram Line: This line connects Kadıköy and Moda on the Asian side.

Metrobus

Metrobus refers to buses that operate on special lanes that allow them to run without getting stuck in traffic. There are three lines of the Metrobus extending between the European and the Asian sides. Line 34 runs between Avcılar and Zincirlikuyu, Line 34T runs between Avcılar and Topkapı only. Line 34A along the Söğütlüçeşme and Edirnekapı route can be used to cross the bridge.

Ferries/Sea Buses

There are ferry (vapur) and sea bus (deniz otobüsü) services along the Bosphorus for those wishing an alternate route. Ferries, a more nostalgic version of sea travel, are cheaper than sea buses, which are faster, more modern, and more comfortable. Common routes operate between Beşiktaş, Kabataş, and Eminönü on the European side and Üsküdar, Kadıköy, and Karaköy on the Asian side.

There are services operating between the city (from both sides) and the Princes’ Islands; these services are more frequent during the spring and summer months. There are also regular services running along the Golden Horn and the Bosphorus Strait (with stops in Ortaköy, Arnavutköy, and Bebek).

The ferries and sea buses operate quite frequently and their timetables can be viewed at the terminals. You can also view timetables online; for sea bus timetables, visit www.ido.com.tr/en/index.cfm, and for ferry timetables, visit www.sehirhatlari.com.tr/en

Sea Taxis

This innovative, 24/7 commuting service is a (more expensive) alternative for those who wish to cross the Bosphorus or visit the Princes’ Islands on their own schedule.

Deniz Taksi boats can hold up to 10 people and prices are calculated based on the distance traveled. You must call to request a taxi when you are by the water or you can reserve ahead of time. To make a booking and for fare information, call 444 44 98 or visit www.deniztaksi.com (the website does not have an English version yet).

Su Samuru is a fairly new and elegant sea-taxi company that has the capacity to transport 10 passengers. The elegantly-decorated boat is equipped with a music and LCD system, air-conditioning, and heating. The sea taxi is also available for guided tours. To make a booking and for fare information, call 0533 777 77 18 or visit www.su-samuru.com (the website does not have an English version yet).

Akbil

If you will be in Istanbul for an extended period of time, it is worth investing in an Akbil, a smart, electronic pass that makes getting around in public transport easier and faster. Akbil can be used with all forms of public transport except for dolmuş. An adult Akbil travel pass can be used by more than one person as long as enough number of fares can be charged from it. Akbil offers 10\\% discount at all fares as well as 50\\% discount for the next five transits within 120 minutes.

Akbil can be purchased from ticket offices close to main bus, metro, and train stations by paying a small deposit. Keep in mind that you can’t purchase an akbil inside train or metro stations. You will need to find a booth with a “Akbil Satış Noktası” sign near major stations (such as in Mecidiyeköy and Taksim Square). Akbil recharging kiosks are located inside most stations.

Akbil is refundable, so remember to keep your purchase receipt if you would like to return it at the end of your trip.

The currency of Turkey is the Turkish Lira (TL). Coins are 5, 10, 25, 50 kuruş (equivalent of cents or pennies) and 1 TL. Bank notes are 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, and 200 TL.

Foreign Currency Exchange

Foreign exchange offices are known as Döviz Bürosu, and can be found throughout the city. They are very easy to find as their storefront has the word “DÖVIZ” boldly displayed. Operating hours are generally Monday-Friday from 9:00am to 5:00pm, although those located in shopping malls and touristic areas stay open until around 7:30pm; these are also open on Saturdays. Keep in mind that exchange offices that are open on Sundays offer very bad rates.

Foreign exchange offices generally offer better rates than banks, and do not charge a commission. In order to find out what the exchange rate is, look under the heading for SATIŞ (selling), which are displayed either inside the bureau or on the storefront. It is worth looking around at different offices, as rates can vary. Travelers’ checks and bank checks carry a commission fee.

Banks and ATMS

Most major banks offer online banking services in English. Banks are open from 9:00am to 5:00pm on weekdays, while branches that operate in shopping malls are also open on Saturdays. Please note that while most banks stay open through lunch, some do close for a lunch break from 12:00-1:00pm. To increase your chances of finding a bank with English speaking staff, head for a branch somewhere in the area of Taksim/Beyoğlu, if possible on Istiklal Caddesi.

The Turkish Iş Bankası also offers expatriate banking services including internet banking, ATM banking, and telephone banking in English. Garanti Bankası is another bank that makes an effort to provide services in English.

With a valid credit or debit card, you can get cash advances at most atms, which are abundently spread around the city. Accepted cards are posted on atms. Citibank, HSBC, and Fortis are some international banks that you will find in Istanbul. You can witdraw money from these international banks as well as from most Turkish banks, which are on the Cirrus or PLUS networks. Check with your bank to make sure that your credit card is on one of these networks.

It is possible to open bank accounts in foreign currencies at the major banks listed above. You will need to provide your passport and full details of your current bank accounts. Be prepared for the whole process to take some time.

If you want to open a bank account in Turkish currency, you will be asked for a tax number and a residency permit or work permit. You can get your tax number after a trip to the Tax Department with your passport and residency permit or work permit. Opening an account will provide you with conveniences, such as money storage, transfers, online banking, and automatic utility-bill payments. If you aim to keep your bank account open for more than a month, you may opt for a savings account but the banks will withdraw 15\\\\\\% tax from your interest.

You can exchange foreign currency and traveler’s cheques at banks, but do note that exchange offices offer better rates than banks (see above).

Credit Cards

All major credit cards are accepted in most establishments in Turkey. MasterCard and Visa are more wide spread, while American Express and Diners Club International are less widely accepted because of the high commission fees.

Money Transfer

The best option for transferring money in Istanbul is to use Western Money Transfer, which is available as a service offered at all branches of the major Turkish banks: Garanti Bankası, Iş Bankası, Denizbank, Dışbank, Akbank, Yapı Kredi Bankası, Oyak Bank, Finansbank, and Ziraat Bankası. To receive money by transfer, arrive at the bank with your passport and transfer details, including your money transfer control number, the time the money is to be sent, and the amount of money being transfered. The money should be available immediately in US dollars, Euros, or TL. The other (slower and less reliable) option is to go through the bank’s own channels, which is possible even if you do not have an account with them. However, the money can be blocked for up to 20 days by the bank, and the only way to get around this is to withdraw the money in Turkish Lira at the bank’s stated rate, or by paying a high commission. The moral of the story: go for Western Money Transfer if at all possible.