Located in the Üsküdar district at the base of the bridge, this area used to be called Kozinitsa, while the current name translates literally as “little raven” in Turkish. Kuzguncuk was once home to many of the Jews who settled in the Ottoman Empire following their expulsion from Spain in the 15th century. In fact, it is estimated that as many as 10,000 Jews lived here at one point, with the result that the area was sometimes referred to as Little Jerusalem. Armenians began moving into the area in the 18th century. There was also a large Greek community, evident from the original Greek name and multiple churches. Indeed, there were so few Muslim Turks living in this area that there was no mosque here until 1952.

Unfortunately, the neighborhood’s history of tolerance and multiculturalism came to an abrupt end during the notorious riots that engulfed Istanbul in 1955. These bloody riots were triggered by the false rumor that the Turkish consulate in Thessaloniki, which was also the house in which Ataturk was born, had been bombed. Violent mobs waged an assault on the city’s Greek residents in their churches, businesses, and homes, resulting in dozens of deaths. Businesses and homes owned by Armenians and Jews were also targets of these attacks, as the sentiment was not just anti-Greek, but against all minorities.

These riots were part of a broader trend of Turkification, a nationalistic movement that strove to do away with Istanbul’s minority residents. Istanbul’s minorities had already been hard hit by the 1942 wealth tax, and as a consequence of these riots, an already-underway emigration trend was rapidly accelerated as the city’s Greeks, Armenians, and Jews began to emigrate en masse.

Over the years following the exodus of the area’s long established minorities, the ethnic make-up of the area changed drastically, as immigrants from Anatolia moved into what had now become cheap housing. Many of the current residents hail from the Black Sea region. Today, the neighborhood is known for being one of the areas most heavily affected by the 1955 riots as much as it is known for its pretty quaint houses.

Nevertheless, despite the drastic changes that have taken place, Kuzguncuk is still revered as a traditional neighborhood or mahalle where Turkish traditions live on, and as a place where neighborliness and old-fashioned values prevail. While there are very few minorities who still live here, the churches and main synagogue are still functional. Even Christians and Jews who live in other parts of the city come to Kuzguncuk for religious services on the weekends.

Today, the area is experiencing something of a renaissance. Walking around, you can see signs of the gentrification that has been going on for years, as many of the homes have been restored and cafés opened.Over the past decade, the area has become very popular with expats, artists, and writers, many of whom are drawn to the neighborhood’s cosmopolitan past. Foreigners wandering around don’t elicit the same number of curious stares that they do in many other parts of Istanbul.

The nostalgic neighborhood feel and pretty wooden gingerbread houses have made the neighborhood very popular as a set for Turkish television series, many of which have been filmed here. Walking the streets, you feel like you are in a bit of a time warp. The area is remarkably quiet, despite its proximity to bustling Üsküdar. A visit to Kuzguncuk is best spent strolling around the streets and climbing up the hills to enjoy the view over the Bosphorus. You can pop into one of the small shops and enjoy a meal at one of the area’s restaurants or cafés.

Walking along the waterfront, you will notice a small square right on the water, where the locals sit, sipping cups of tea. On this little square you’ll find one of the older restaurants,İsmet Baba, a simple and traditional meyhane serving seafood and rakı. A little further along the coastal road, you’ll find the imposing Armenian Surp Krikor Lusavoriç Church, whose current structure was built in 1861. Also located on the coastal road is the Üryanizade Mosque with its carved wooden minaret, which was originally built as a mescit (a small prayer room) in 1860.

Walking up the main street, Icadiye Caddesi, you’ll see the Beth Ya’akov Synagogue, which was originally built as a summer services synagogue in 1878. Today, it is the only synagogue that still functions in Kuzguncuk, with former residents who have moved to other parts of the city coming here on weekends to keep the synagogue from closing. Further up the street, you’ll find the massive Church of Hagios Panteleimon, which was built in 1821 on the site of a church dating back to 550 during the reign of Emperor Justinian, lending it a reputation as one of the oldest churches still in use in Istanbul. The beautiful domed bell tower was added in 1911, as you can tell from its different architectural style.

If you climb up the steep hills, you will find the Nakkaştepe Jewish Cemetery, one of the largest Jewish cemeteries in the city, with gravestones in both Hebrew and Ladino, some dating back to the 15th and 16th centuries. Up on the hill, you will also find the Abdülmecid Efendi Köşk, a historical wooden mansion originally built as a hunting lodge in the 1870s. Very much a gilded cage, this mansion was home to Abdülmecid Efendi, the cousin of Sultan Abdülhamid II, who banished him to this building, forbidding him to enter Istanbul. Neo-Turkish in design, it is surrounded by a large garden and is today owned by the Yapı Kredi Bank.

Kuzguncuk also offers a number of welcoming restaurants and cafés. One of the most popular restaurants in the area is called Kosinitza, and features charming oldfashioned décor and a sophisticated European-influenced menu that is heavy on seafood. For traditional Turkish food and home cooking, visit Ekmek Teknesi, where you can enjoy freshly baked pide and an assortment of kebabs. If you want to snack while you stroll, pop into the Yunus Emre Odun Ekmek Fırın bakery, where you can pick up an assortment of freshly baked breads and pastries.

A standout among the many cafés in the area is Ilya Café, a wonderfully cozy little venue that is housed in a small building adjacent to the Church of Hagios Panteleimon. This artfully decorated café features a simple daily menu of freshly prepared soups, salads, snacks, and cakes, and is run by the friendly and knowledgeable Arzu Hanım, who picked the name as a tribute to a former Greek resident. If you want to check out one of the small local galleries, Harmony Sanat is noteworthy, while Bir Kuzguncuk Dükkanı is a shop carrying an assortment of gift items designed by Turkish artists.

Given its rich and unique history, it comes as no surprise that Kuzguncuk elicits a very strong sense of identity and pride from those who live here and even those who lived here long ago. The area is revered by both current and past residents, who are rightly very proud of the neighborhood’s special history, sense of community, and neighborliness. While there are some today who consider it historically revisionist to depict the past as such an idyllic era of peaceful diversity, there can be no doubt that Kuzguncuk was an exceptionally tolerant neighborhood where coexistence and neighborliness dominated.

Today, there is also a small trend of old Kuzguncuk residents starting to move back to the area, although this is just a tiny trickle at the moment. However, if the area’s gentrification and popularity with expats continues, in ten years’ time Kuzguncuk could be the Cihangir of the Asian side. But for the moment it remains what it has been for years: a traditional neighborhood where time moves slowly, and where residents are happy to stop and chat and share the unique history of their beloved neighborhood.

Address Book:

Surp Krikor Lusavoric Church; Çarşı Caddesi No.49 Kuzguncuk; P: (0216) 341 50 02

Beth Ya’akov Synagogue; Icadiye Caddesi No.9 Kuzguncuk

Church of Hagios Panteleimon; Icadiye Caddesi No.82 Kuzguncuk

Kosinitza; Bereketli Sokak No. 2/A Kuzguncuk; P: (0216) 334 04 00

Yunus Emre Odun Ekmek Fırın bakery; Icadiye Caddesi No.24/A Kuzguncuk; P: (0216) 310 52 01

Ilya Café; Bican Efendi Sokak No.1A Kuzguncuk; P: (0216) 553 86 90

Harmony Sanat; İcadiye Caddesi No.42A Kuzguncuk;P: (0216) 553 21 67

Bir Kuzguncuk Dükkanı; İcadiye Caddesi No.40A Kuzguncuk; P: (0216) 5329691

This is a jam-packed sightseeing area par excellence. Although there are plenty of shops, restaurants and bars, many are pretty run-of-the-mill, catering for tourists on rushed trips and tight budgets. In contrast, some of the city’s finest and most interesting hotels including the Four Seasons Sultanahmet, the Ottoman Hotel Imperial, Yaşmak Sultan Hotel, Burkçin Suites and the Ayasofya Konakları can be found in Sultanahmet, offering their guests not just superb views from their roof terraces but also easy access to the attractions. More hotels to suit all budgets can be found in neighboring Cankurtaran.

Sultanahmet in history

When the Greek colonist Byzas first founded Byzantium, the settlement that was to become Constantinople and then Istanbul, he chose the tip of the peninsula that juts out into the Bosphorus and the Sea of Marmara. It was here that the Byzantines built their Great Palace, the remains of which lie beneath modern Sultanahmet and pop up occasionally, and most unmissably, in the Great Palace Mosaics Museum, beside the Arasta Bazaar; and it was here that the Emperor Justinian had the great church of Hagia Sophia built in 537. When the Ottomans captured the city in 1453 they were keen to emphasize continuity with the past, so Sultan Mehmed the Conqueror began work on what became Topkapı Palace on the same site originally chosen by Byzas.

It wasn’t until the 17^th century that the area acquired its modern name, when Sultan Ahmed I commissioned Sedefkar Mehmed Ağa to build the great mosque facing Hagia Sophia that still bears his name (although it’s much better known to visitors as the Blue Mosque). Aside from the new Sabancı Merkez Camii in Adana, it’s the only mosque in Turkey to feature six minarets.

Sultanahmet continued in importance through until the 19^th century, when the artist and archaeologist Osman Hamdi Bey commissioned the main building of the Archaeological Museum in the grounds of Topkapı Palace. At that time an imposing Palace of Justice closed off the east side of Ayasofya Square, with a prison round the corner in the building that now houses the splendid Four Seasons Sultanahmet Hotel. The site is slated to become an Archaeological Park although legal problems have delayed its opening.

What to see in Sultanahmet

If you only have three days to explore the area you should probably head first for the collection of kiosks, courtyards and gardens that make up Topkapı Palace, allowing a minimum of four hours to see the highlights. Most people will want to make straight for the Treasury to gawp at the sultans’ egg-sized rubies, emeralds and diamonds, as well as at thrones and cradles made entirely from gold. Romantics will love the Harem, the lavishly decorated private quarters where the sultans’ concubines and children lived under the ever-watchful eye of their eunuch guards. Allow time to admire the hall displaying the sultans’ kaftans, and the kitchens with their extensive porcelain collection. The view of the confluence of the Bosphorus and the Sea of Marmara from the İftar Canopy, where the sultans used to break their fast during Ramadan, is absolutely magical.

Just steps away from the palace, Hagia Sophia was the largest church in the world at the time that it was completed in 537, and it is still one of the most splendid with its soaring dome and glittering Byzantine mosaics. After exploring it, pop round to the side of the building to admire the tombs of some of the sultans of the Ottoman Golden Age. A Carpet Museum is due to open in the İmaret (Soup Kitchen) that was added along with the minarets when the church was turned into a mosque in 1453.

In the corner of the square facing Hagia Sophia is the Ayasofya Hürrem Sultan Hamamı(Ayasofya Haseki Hürrem Hamamı),the city’s single most spectacular Turkish bath, designed by Sinan for Roxelana (Haseki Hürrem), the much-loved wife of Sultan Süleyman the Magnificent, in 1556. Behind it stands the splendid, soaring pile of grey marble, tumbling domes, and minarets that is the Sultanahmet (Blue) Mosque, still very much in use today although tourists are welcome to admire its tiled interior outside prayer times.

Running alongside the Blue Mosque is the Hippodrome, where Byzantine chariot races attracted a fanatical following. Walk down its spine to admire Kaiser Wilhelm’s Fountain and the Egyptian Obelisk, and then cross the road to visit the marvellous Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts, housed in a 16^th-century palace. Until the new Carpet Museum opens this is home to the city’s finest collection of Turkish carpets.

Off the west side of Sultanahmet Square is the Yerebatan (Basilica) Cistern, one of Istanbul’s most unexpected and yet most romantic attractions: a vast vaulted space held up by 336 columns that once acted as an underground reservoir. Don’t miss the upside-down Medusa’s head reused as a column base, proof that the builders regarded fine old Roman sculptures as no more than chunks of reusable building material.

Istanbul’s take on the British Museum is the Archaeology Museum, off the path running down from Topkapı Palace to Gülhane Park. The oldest and most interesting part is the Çinili Köşk (Tiled Pavilion), dating back to the 15^th century and containing a superb collection of Turkish ceramics. In the main building the finest exhibit is probably the spendid Alexander Sarcophagus, brought here from Sidon in the days when Lebanon was still part of the Ottoman Empire. It dates from the 4^th century BC.

On the south side of the Blue Mosque, the Arasta Bazaar is Sultanahmet’s most interesting shopping street, with a string of tiny boutiques selling everything from antiques to contemporary ceramics. Two particularly interesting shops to look out for are Jennifer’s Hamam, which sells hand-woven towels and bathrobes sourced from all around Turkey; and Cocoon, which sells colourful modern takes on the ancient art of felt-making.

Where to eat in Sultanahmet

Köfte(meatballs) are a staple of the Turkish diet and the simpleTarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi Selim Ustaon Divan Yolu is the perfect place to try them out withpiyaz(white beans), big hunks of bread and some soothingayran(a salty yogurt drink). Just up the road,Çiğdem Pastanesialways has a mouth-watering choice of cakes in the window. Pushing the boat out, theSeasonsRestaurantin the Four Seasons Sultanahmet is a top-notch place to eat international cuisine whileMatbah, at the Ottoman Hotel Imperial, focuses on Ottoman cuisine.

Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi Selim Usta;Divan Yolu No. 4; P: (0212) 511 39 60

Çiğdem Pastanesi;Divan Yolu No. 62/A; P: (0212)526 88 59

Seasons;Four Seasons Hotel, Tevkifhane Sokak No. 1; P: (0212) 638 82 00,

Matbah;Ottoman Hotel Imperial, Caferiye Sokak No. 6/1; P: (0212)513 61 50

Karaköy's History

Karaköy used to be considered a part of the greater Galata neighborhood, but the area was renamed in the 19th century for the Karaite Jews who had settled there. During the Byzantine period, Galata was a Genoese trading colony that was quasi-independent and walled off from the rest of the city. At one point, this port had one of the busiest harbors in all of Europe. The area very much had its own distinct character. In fact, according to historical records and illustrations, Karaköy looked much like any other Italian city in the 15th century. Echoes of this past are still visible in the architecture today.

During the Ottoman period, the area became the city’s financial district, the center for banking and commerce, where all the major banks and insurance companies were located. Banking in the Ottoman Empire was strongly associated with minorities, and over the years, the area became home to a large non-Muslim population, with many Italians, Greeks, Armenians, and Jews moving in. Overcrowding eventually pushed many of these communities up to the Beyoğlu district, but this cosmopolitan period in Karaköy’s history is still evident from the numerous churches and synagogues in the area, though very few of these are still functional. In fact, Karaköy is even home to Istanbul’s Jewish Museum, located in a restored synagogue.

A relic of this commercial past is Bankalar Caddesi, a street leading up towards Galata Tower. Bankalar Caddesi was one of the most important avenues in 19th century Istanbul. Sometimes referred to as the Wall Street of the Ottomans, this used to be called Voyvoda Street, and was where all of the major banks and insurance companies had their head offices. Although the banks have now mostly left and have been replaced by lighting shops, the street is still lined with impressive and imposing buildings, many with beautiful architectural details such as ornate tile work. What used to be the headquarters for the Ottoman bank now houses the Ottoman Banking Museum, the city’s first modern bank where even harem eunuchs held bank accounts. Today, you can explore the original vaults and examine loan contracts between the bank and the Ottoman government, while the exhibits also offer fascinating insights into the social, economic, and political environment of the late Ottoman period.

It is on this street that you can also find the art nouveau-style Kamondo staircase, well-known because of the famous 1964 photo by Henri Cartier-Bresson. This staircase was commissioned in 1869 by Avram Kamondo, the wealthy head of a local Jewish banking family. While the architect remains unknown, we do know that the stairs were built to provide a shortcut to reach the Galata tower, making it easier for Kamondo to get to work. Supposedly, the staircase was built in its unique curvaceous style to make it safer for the Kamondo children – if they slipped and took a tumble, they would not have a long way to fall.

Modern Karaköy

The area’s recent revival can be traced back to the opening of the Istanbul Modern Museum in 2004. Housed in a converted customs warehouse, this is Istanbul’s answer to the Tate Modern. A welcome addition to the city’s art scene, the museum has an enormous 8,000 square meters of exhibition space, with an excellent selection of modern Turkish art in its permanent collection. Through its temporary exhibits and its hosting the Biennial, the Istanbul Modern has been integral in introducing international artists to local audiences. The museum also has a great restaurant and café, with suitably minimal décor and stunning views across to the Anatolian side and the Old Town. The area surrounding the museum has now become a popular student and tourist hangout, with many cheap and cheerful nargile cafés.

Today Karaköy is still strongly linked with the sea, as this is where mammoth cruise ships dock when visiting the city, as well as ferries from Kadıköy and Haydarpaşa. And as is the case with many ports throughout the world, Karaköy is also still known for a more unsavory type of commerce: a very large brothel is located in this area. You will also find a plethora of diving shops and mechanical, electrical, and plumbing parts suppliers. Yet despite this slightly gritty underbelly and working-class feel, you can still see a fair number of tourists from the cruise ships walking around, and the area is home to a number of architecturally interesting buildings.

One such building is Karaköy Palace, located in Karaköy Square. Built in the 1910s and designed by Levantine architect Guilio Mongeri, who also designed the St. Antoine Catholic church in Beyoğlu, this building resembles an Italian palazzo, but with strong Byzantine and Ottoman influences. Other noteworthy buildings are located on the street behind the harbor. One in particular stands out, with décor that is so ornate it resembles a wedding cake. Its actual function, rather incongruously, is a police station.

Karaköy has also started attracting local foodies who are drawn to the area for a handful of good-quality restaurants and high-quality food shops. Housed in a beautiful tiled building that used to be the Estonian embassy, the family-run Karaköy Lokantası was established in 2000, and has long been a favorite with in-the-know Istanbulites. Karaköy Lokantası is known for offering consistently delicious Turkish cuisine at reasonable prices. Among local businessmen, this is one of the most popular lunch spots in the neighborhood, while in the evening the atmosphere is more like a meyhane (Turkish tavern).

Not to be confused with Karaköy Lokantası is the Tarihi Karaköy Balıkçısı, located just across the street. Despite its rather unassuming façade, once you climb up to the top floor you will be greeted with a phenomenal view of the Old City, just across the Golden Horn. Open since 1923, this restaurant is deservedly famous for its hearty fish soup, considered by many to be the best in the city. Just be careful not to fill up on soup and meze, for the fish mains are not to be missed, particularly the sea bass cooked in paper, which is perfectly steamed and succulently flavored.

Another upscale option is Karaköyüm restaurant, which also has a spectacular view of the Golden Horn and Galata Tower. This restaurant serves traditional home cooking as well as a few international options, with a beautiful bar and elegant décor. Particularly popular with foreigners is Akın Balık, which serves up good fish alongside incredible views. Set right by the base of the Galata Bridge, Akın Balık is a casual eatery that is ideal for watching the sun set on the Golden Horn. Dining on narrow tables covered with paper instead of tablecloths, you’ll appreciate the simplicity of enjoying an ice-cold beer or a glass of rakı along with mezes, fresh fish, and the company of your good friends.

More of a newcomer to the area, Lokanta Maya is already very popular thanks to its concise and creative menu, which features Turkish cuisine at its newest and freshest. Maya specializes in fish that is grilled to perfection as well as regional mezes. The restaurant’s accomplished chef, Didem Şenol, has traveled extensively around the country’s Aegean coast, and has in-depth knowledge of the region’s products. While the décor may be a little too minimal for some people’s tastes, it helps keep the focus just where it ought to be – on the food.

For meat lovers there is no better place than Namlı Gurme, which has two branches in Karaköy. One is a restaurant and the other is more for food shopping, although it also offers a casual dining option. Particularly popular for their brunch buffet, Namlı produces a wide range of meat products, including sausages and cured meats, as well as their own cheeses, olives, and breads.

If you’re craving something sweet, then head to Karaköy Güllüoğlu, considered by many to make the best baklava in the city. Güllüoğlu still uses its original 1871 recipe, although now there are many varieties available, including chocolate-covered baklava, and şöbiyet, a flaky, triangle-shaped pastry stuffed with pistachios and cream. The charming Bej Kahve is a sign that the area is slowly changing, though still far from being gentrified. Located in a recently restored pasaj, or shopping arcade that would not look out of place in any European city, Bej Kahve is connected to Kağıthane,or the House of Paper, a delightfully quirky shop selling just about anything made of paper, including notebooks, stationary, calendars, bookmarks, and even coasters and other decorative household objects. They also sell tote bags, jewelry, and accessories with Istanbul designs, all by Turkish designers.

Compared to nearby areas such as Galata and Cihangir, Karaköy is a bit of a strange place – you can very much feel that this was a business and administrative area rather than a residential district, as it does not quite have a neighborhood feel. But it is just this difference that has helped Karaköy retain its own character. Walking along the streets, you can catch a glimpse of a building or street view that looks completely European, straight out of a slightly run-down Italian city. But with your next step, the walls of a crumbling old hamam or hardware store instantly transport you back into a very Turkish scene. Not as trendy or developed as its more fashionable neighbors, Karaköy offers a rare glimpse into Istanbul’s commercial and cultural past.

Originally published in The Guide Istanbul September/October 2011 issue

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The first village at this site was established over 3000 years ago and the area has been continually inhabited since then, making it older than the city of Istanbul itself. The name Samatya comes from the Greek word “Psamathion,” which means sandy. The area gets this name because of the sandy beaches that once lined its shore. Three millennia later the beaches are gone but some of the sand remains, hidden in the mortar of the Theodosian Walls, also known as The Walls of Constantinople, which enclosed Samatya within the protection of the great city. Now, like the sand in the crumbling walls, the history, diversity, and distinctiveness of Samatya are coming to the surface again.

Churches, Mosques, and Monasteries

Under Emperor Theodosius I (379-395 AD) Samatya became an important center for churches and monasteries. In the 5^th century the monastery of St John of Studius was built. This complex was home to over 1000 monks at its peak and during the 9^th century it was the most powerful and influential monastery in the Byzantine Empire. Shortly after celebrating its millennium, the church was converted to a mosque by İlyas Bey, the Sultan’s Stable Master (or imrahor in Turkish). The mosque came to be known as the İmrahor Mosque and was in use until 1894 when it was destroyed by an earthquake. Today, the remaining walls of the Church of St John make it the oldest surviving church structure in the city.

Another church that underwent a change in faith is St Andrew of Krisei, which was built on the foundations of an earlier church from the 6^th century. In 1491, St Andrew of Krisei was converted to a mosque by Koca Mustafa Paşa, an Ottoman Grand Vizier. Koca Mustafa Paşa Mosque is still in use and it is a popular shrine. The tombs of the dervish leader Sümbül Efendi and his daughter Rahine are both here and attract crowds of people who come to pray to them for help. Rahine is especially known to provide help for unmarried women who are looking for husbands.

Surp Kevork Armenian Church (known as Sulu Manastır in Turkish) is probably the area’s most important church. Originally built by Byzantine Emperor Romanos III around 1030 AD, it later became a Greek orthodox church, and was later handed over to the Armenian community by the Sultan. This church was the seat of the Armenian Patriarchy of Istanbul from 1461 to 1644 (when the patriarchy moved to Kumkapı). The church is still in use today, although much of the original structure had to be rebuilt after a disastrous fire in 1782, which destroyed much of Samatya.

After the Ottomans took control of the city, they began to add mosques to this area, either converting churches or building new structures. The Empire’s most famous architect Sinan is responsible for both the Abdi Çelebi Mosque and Ramazan Efendi Mosque. The latter is notable not only for the beautiful İznik faience that adorns it, but also because it was the last mosque that Sinan built. The Agha Public Bath in Samatya is also one of Sinan’s constructions.

The Armenian District

Beginning in 1458, Fatih Sultan Mehmet began settling Armenians in Samatya. These immigrants were brought primarily from Karaman as part of the Sultan’s policy of bringing master craftsmen, artisans, and scholars to his new capital. He also brought the Armenian religious leader Episcopos Havagim from Bursa, giving him Surp Kevork Church from which to lead his followers. (Later sultans continued this trend and also settled non-Muslims in this area. So, while it may sometimes be referred to as the Armenian District, other Christians and Jews also played a significant role in the neighborhood’s history.)

One of the most famous Armenian craftsmen of the area was named Avedis. Legend has it that he was an alchemist who, while looking for the formula for gold, discovered a metal alloy that had very unique sound qualities. (Some stories also refer to him as being an apprentice bell maker when he discovered the formula, which is probably more likely.) He discovered that this new alloy could also be shaped easily without breaking. He created huge cymbals that produced amazing sounds from the alloy. His fame spread and soon the Sultan heard about him and called him to the palace. He wanted Avedis to create cymbals to be used by his military band as weapons of sound, emulating the clash of swords and shields, and announcing the power and strength of the Ottoman army. As a reward for his fine work, the Sultan gave him the surname Zilciyan, which means bell maker, and permission to leave the palace and start his own business. In 1623, the Zilciyan Cymbal Company was formed in Samatya.

Over the centuries the secret formula was handed down from father to son. Their handmade cymbals became popular all over the world and have been used by everyone from European orchestras to American rock stars. In the 1930s the foundry was moved out of Samatya after residents complained about the noise produced by the constant hammering. In 1977, the company finally closed down. However, some friends of the Zilciyan family who knew the secret formula decided that they wanted to carry on the art and tradition of cymbal making and opened their own companies. Today Istanbul is the only city in the world where handmade cymbals are still produced.

Samatya Today

From the 1950s on, Samatya began to change, as did much of Istanbul, with the huge influx of immigrants from Anatolia. The neighborhood began filling with ethnic Turkish Muslims and when tensions finally boiled over across the city in September of 1955, many of the former non-Muslim residents left the area for good. Samatya ceased to be a place of much interest to anyone and became just another working class Turkish neighborhood with a few good restaurants that would draw in the occasional outsider.

Then in 1998 a new Turkish soap opera premiered: İkinci Bahar (which translates as Second Spring). It was centered on a couple who worked in a restaurant in Samatya. The location was chosen because of its nostalgic look. The immense popularity of the show started to ignite interest in the area and the restaurant where the show was shot (Ali Haydar’ın Yeri) is still a popular attraction for locals.

In the last decade some major changes have come to Samatya. To honor its history as a fishing village, a Fish Museum and a Fish Festival were launched. Popular tour agencies have started offering walking tours of the “Armenian District.” Most recently TURAD’s Samatya Development Project has encouraged several new ventures. This year ‘Music in Samatya: Cymbals and Jazz’ held its first events with 3 days of world-class concerts. A guide book for the area has been published as part of the promotional campaign. Some physical projects have also been undertaken, including repairing and repainting many of the traditional old wooden houses around the main square, and there are plans to begin archaeological excavations of the Byzantine-era Damatrys Palace.

Akaretler’s shopping scene was revitalized in 2008, when a group of leading international clothing designers including Damas, Marc Jacobs, Lanvin, Jimmy Choo,and Chloé opened branches on its streets. Many of those boutiques have since closed,however, and an array of trendy, high-end shops and galleries have moved into their oldhomes on the cobbled streets of Akaretler.

These days, the neighborhood features a less pricey and more Turkish selectionof fashionable retailers and eateries. Akaretler now boasts the flagship branch of Haremlique, retailer of elegantly designed linens and textiles, hip new wine barCorvus, branches of upscale jewelry shops such as Sevan Bıçakçı and Storks, a CanHi-Fi audio and video center for your high-end technology needs, and a wedding outletby Turkish luxury designer Vakko. The Turkish coffee-shop chain and purveyor of finechocolates Kahve Dünyası has opened a branch in the midst of the shops. For a morefilling meal, you can enjoy fine Middle Eastern cuisine in sumptuous armchairs on theshaded terrace of Al Jamal Badawirestaurant, or cross the street for a dinner at KalamataMeyhane. Located at the W Hotel, Minyon offers a warm and elegant atmosphere where you can enjoy a light salad or an afternoon cocktail. Another very recent addition to the area’s dining scene is The WinstonBrasserie, which specializes in upscale Italian fare.

The real stars of the new Akaretler, however, are the eclectic and exciting galleriesthat have opened in the past several months. At the end of 2010, art and photography gallery artlimits moved into the building on Şair Nedim Caddesi formerly occupied by Marc Jacobs. More than 25 different photographs and prints adorn its walls, all available in a variety of sizes. Though some pictures are reminiscent of other media, such aswoodprints or oil paints, most have been digitally created. All the images leave striking and colorful impressions on the viewer. Though small, the gallery has already picked up the work of some extremely prominent artists, such as Ergan Inan, recipient of a 2010 President’s Culture and Art Grand Award.

Another new Akaretler gallery, Art ON, opened in March and held its third exhibitionin June. A group exhibition featuring contemporary art masters such as British pop artistDexter Dalwood and Turkish 3-D artist Seçkin Pirim, the show aimed to juxtapose Turkish contemporary art against the international modern art scene. Previously, Art ONalso distinguished itself with “Virtual Places”, a solo exhibition by Turkish contemporaryphotographer Ali Alışır, and its inaugural exhibition, which featured unique editions bymodern artists such as Damien Hirst and Gary Hume.

A walk through Akaretler will also interest fans of fashionable interior design. InMay of 2011, two contemporary Turkish interior design companies opened branches inthe area. A whimsical animal theme runs through the furniture and interior décor products of Autoban, founded in 2003 by Seyhan Özdemir and Sefer Çağlar. From winged chairs shaped like birdcages to light fi xtures that suggest octopi and spiders, Autoban offers a surrealist spin on everyday objects for the home. For those who enjoy more conventional home accessories, Autoban’s elegant wooden tables, ceramic vases, candleholders, and dazzling selection of colorful glass animal figurines will surely delight.

The 40-year-old company Derin Designoffers products for those seeking the thin furniture,fluid shapes, and solid colors that characterize more minimalist, mid-century-modernhome design. The wide selection of candleholders on offer resemble everything fromfactory pipes to sponges, and some of the lamps and ceramic accessories look likeinstruments from a science laboratory. Derin’s designs are as practical as they arecontemporary: plastic shelves that fold into themselves and sleek, spare chair-and-tablesets will refine your living space.

You can also visit Akaretler virtually and check out a map of the district as well aslinks to each gallery at www.akaretler.com.tr.

Bebek means baby in Turkish, and the area’s history dates back to pre-Christian times, when it was known as Chilai or Skallai, meaning pier. Prior to the conquest of Istanbul, Bebek was a simple Greek fishing village. During the construction of Rumeli Hisarı (Fortress), Sultan Mehmet II sent the supposedly baby-faced Bebek Çelebi to the region in 1451 to maintain order, and the area took Bebek Çelebi’s name after his death. Under the rule of Sultan Ahmet III in the late 17^th and early 18^th century, Bebek grew into a summer resort area. When the ferry terminal opened in the mid-19^th century, Bebek became a thriving neighborhood with year- round residents. With the opening of Robert College (now called Bosphorus University) in 1863, many foreigners settled in the area.

A small compact neighborhood on the European shore, its verdant hills are dotted with elegant houses and apartments that slope down to a bay filled with bobbing rowboats and luxurious private yachts. On any given day, the main street Cevdetpaşa Caddesi is filled with strolling couples, parents pushing strollers, students from the nearby university, joggers and dog walkers--often moving faster than the cars stuck in the shoreline traffic.

Running parallel to the water, Bebek is easy to navigate, and starts with the white turreted Art Nouveau building that is the Egyptian Consulate (also known as the Valide Paşa Mansion). Built in 1902, this landmark building was designed by Italian architect Raimondo D’Aronco for an Ottoman official, and was later sold to the Egyptian Embassy, which then became the Egyptian Consulate when all embassies moved to Ankara, which became Turkey’s new capital. Over the years, this fairytale building became very run down, but it will soon re-open following a major renovation project that has restored it to its previous splendor.

Next to the Egyptian Consulate is the lovely Bebek Park, a magnet for families and dog lovers. Renovated by the Sabancı Foundation, it was re-named the Türkan Sabancı Bebek Park after it was re-opened in 2008, and now features an improved children’s playground and dog run. The park is also home to the charming municipal ferry terminal dating back to 1851. At the edge of the park is the Hümayunü Abad Mosque, an exquisite, beautifully-maintained structure that dates back to 1912. Right by the mosque is one of Bebek’s most well-known yet humble eateries Bebek Kahve.As its name suggests, this is a traditional, simple Turkish coffee house that nevertheless attracts many of the city’s intellectuals and many locals. Here you will find people whiling the day away chatting, playing backgammon and cards, or just reading a book or newspaper.

On the main street Cevdetpaşa Caddesi, you will find a number of small boutiques, and as of recent years, a number of clothing stores. One of the most successful Turkish apparel chains Yargıcı, known for its classic preppy clothes in neutral tones, now has two branches here, one which only sells accessories. Mapa is another established Turkish brand that specializes in well-tailored clothing in quality fabrics. Another Turkish store that has been receiving a lot of media attention of late is Midnight Express, a concept store that sells ready to wear clothing, jewelry, decorative items, and furniture. The aesthetic here is urban and sophisticated, with the designs of many young Turkish and international designers featured. Midnight Express has two branches in Bebek, one which only carries jewelry pieces. Another small, local boutique is Cashmere in Love, which carries a range of knitwear in modern designs made of quality Mongolian cashmere.

If you are looking for gifts for your friends back home, then head to Herşey Aşktan, a local store specializing in jewelry, ceramics, and other decorative items in Ottoman motifs. They also produce a range of beautifully-packaged traditional Turkish sweets.If its home décor and gifts that you are in the market for, head to Dört Mevsim, which specializes in high-quality products for home decoration in simple designs that fuse European and Ottoman styles. Noteworthy products include hand-printed traditional pesştemal (Turkish-style towels) and hand-blown glassware.

For books, magazines, and newspapers in Turkish, English, and other languages, be sure to check out the Yasemin Pasajı (arcade), as well as the Dünya Aktüel Kitabevi, a small shop bursting with magazines and books, mostly in foreign languages. Bebek is also a good place to buy hard-to-find ingredients and foreign foods. Santral Şarküteri is a Bebek institution that sells everything you can imagine from regional Turkish cheeses to Duncan Hines cake mixes. For fresh fish, try the spotless Bebek Balık Evi where the specialties includebottarga (a local delicacy of cured fish roe) and lakerda (salted bonito).

If all that shopping wears you out, there are many options for a quick pick-me-up. If it’s a sugar rush you’re looking for, there is plenty on offer. Bebek Badem Ezmesi was established in 1904, and is best known for its marzipan (almond paste). The shop also sells a range of candies and other sweets. The famous Baylan, which is known for its legendary Kup Griye ice cream Sundae also opened a branch here in 2010. On a hot summer day Cremeria Milano is a welcomed option, serving authentic Italian ice cream and gelato. A local favorite is Mini Dondurma (open only in the summer), a tiny ice cream shop next to the Bebek Hotel that has been serving some of the best scoops in the city since 1968. Meanwhile,Bebek Brasserie and Patisserie (part of the Divan Group) known for their excellent cakes and pastries, has been serving loyal customers for some twenty years. The entrance level is filled with Divan delights including chocolates, cakes, and cookies. The brasserie downstairs has indoor seating plus a covered terrace by the water. One of the most recent additions is the first Turkish branch of the French patisserie Ladurée that specializes in macaroons.

If caffeine is your drug of choice, Bebek is home to what must arguably be one of the best situated Starbuck’s in the world, with its spectacular view of the Bosphorus and the Asian shoreline. UK-based coffee chain Caffé Nero also has a five story waterside branch here. However, if you are looking for somewhere a bit more up market to enjoy your coffee break, Bebek offers several options where you can sip your latte in style. One of the flashiest and most popular hangouts is Lucca, which is known as the place to see and be seen. Opened in 2004, this restaurant became an instant hit with Istanbul’s glitterati, and is almost always packed, with the crowds spilling out onto the sidewalk. The food here is good and the setting warm and stylish.

Right across the street is Happily Ever After that started out as a bakery and café, and soon expanded due to its success. Very popular, particularly for people watching, it now also offers a fantastic Bosphorus view. As well as an international menu, it also servs freshly-baked breads and pastries. Located high above the main street is another local favorite Mangerie. To find the entrance, go up past the Ebil Hair Salon (a great place to get dolled up for a night on the town). Once you catch a glimpse of the view of the street below and the water beyond, you quickly realize why Mangerie is worth the climb. The emphasis here is on good food served well, and the tasteful décor of mainly white wood and painted floors make this an ideal spot for brunch. Further along the water is Bebek Koru Kahvesi, an elegant and cozy café serving international favorites.

Bebek is also an excellent part of town to enjoy local seafood, with a number of long-standing restaurants present as well as some new additions. Bebek Balıkçısı is a rather formal restaurant open since 1961. Its chandeliers, bow-tie-wearing waiters, and white linen tablecloths take you back to a time when ‘dining’ was still a formal affair.If it’s drinks you’re after, then head to Bebek Bar located in the Bebek Hotel. Opened in 1963 and completely refurbished in 2002, this hotel is recommended by The Charming Hotels Independent Luxury Hotels of the World. No wonder it’s recommended, given its fantastic location and old-world style and service. The hotel is nevertheless best known for its bar and Les Ambassadeurs restaurant on its premises. With its wood paneling and leather chairs, Bebek Bar feels like an English gentleman’s club, but is anything but stuffy offering a lovely terrace and one of the finest views boasted by a bar in Istanbul.

While Bebek was traditionally known for its independent cafés and restaurants, in recent years, a number of major Turkish chain restaurants have opened branches here, including House Café and Kitchenette. However, despite the opening of these well-known chains, Bebek has managed to retain its boutique atmosphere. Indeed, while many of Istanbul’s neighborhoods are being eroded by migration and urban sprawl, Bebek remains a unique enclave that has preserved its elite lifestyle. One look and it is easy to see why Bebek is known as the pearl of the Bosphorus.

Updated on March 15, 2012

Çukurcuma is a historical neighborhood located in the heart of the Beyoğlu district, hemmed in by Cihangir, Tophane, and Galatasaray, and it is currently undergoing a period of gentrification. Although a bit off the beaten path, the area has long been popular among antique enthusiasts. Çukurcuma, which means ‘Hollow Friday’, allegedly acquired its name when Fatih Sultan Mehmed II came to this hollow to say his Friday prayers before he conquered Istanbul. In the decades after the conquest of Istanbul, a few landmark buildings were built in the area, including the Çukurcuma Mosque, which was built by Mimar Sinan, and the crumbling Ağa Hamam, a Turkish bath that was built in 1562.

Wandering in and out of Çukurcuma’s various shops and through its winding streets, it is difficult not to get lost—but that is, in fact, half the fun. As you meander down the streets, you will notice that most of the buildings have quite a European architectural style. This is because the area was once the home of a large Greek, Armenian, and Levantine community. Although most of the area is still in a state of elegant decay, some of the buildings have started to get a facelift and some have already been restored to their previous splendor.

As many young hipsters from neighboring Cihangir are slowly opening shops and cafés in Çukurcuma, the area has been taking on an increasingly bohemian feel. Recently, a number of funky boutiques and designer shops have been popping up and joining the more established antique shops. Some shops have the air of a flea market brimming with curio objects and kitsch. You really have to hunt through the heaps in such stores and this actually makes each find all the more enjoyable. On the other side of the spectrum, in some stores you often feel like you have entered the luxurious home of a wealthy friend who has filled their home with tasteful antiques.

Çukurcuma is also home to many workshops, and in the summer months, you can see the local carpenters hard at work, crafting new pieces and refurbishing old ones. You will notice that the local carpenters, antique dealers, and various shopkeepers in Çukurcuma are very laid-back and happy to chat with you about their goods, explaining the unique provenance of each piece as you browse through their stores. The old men sipping tea and playing backgammon by the shop entrances along the streets and in the shaded gardens of the neighborhood mosques are a testament to this relaxed atmosphere.

While Çukurcuma is currently not on many people’s radar, this is likely to change very soon when Orhan Pamuk’s Museum of Innocence opens (see boxed text on page 82). As Turkey’s prized Nobel-laureate, Mr. Pamuk is known to have something of a Midas touch, and we are sure that this new museum will put Çukurcuma on the tourists’ trail, as well as the locals’ agenda.

A bit further up the hill from Çukurcuma, neighboring Cihangir is considered to be Istanbul’s most bohemian neighborhood. Renowned for its stunning views of the Bosphorus, many artists and intellectuals have now made the area their home. In fact, this area has re-established itself over the past decade and became Istanbul’s hipster haven.

During the reign of Süleyman the Magnificent, Cihangir was a forested hunting ground and a favorite of his son Jahangir from where the area gets its name. After Jahangir’s death, the Sultan had the legendary architect Mimar Sinan build a mosque in this area as a monument to his son. Thanks to its proximity to Yeşilçam Street in Beyoğlu--the center of the Turkish film industry from the 1950s to the 70s-–many actors and artists chose to make Cihangir their home. However, by the 80s many of the district’s beautiful Art Deco buildings were run down, and like the greater Beyoğlu area, Cihangir came to be known as a rather rough part of town.

Then, like many of Istanbul’s other neighborhoods, Cihangir entered a period of gentrification in the mid-1990s. This process moved along far more rapidly than in many of the city’s other areas. The rapid movement was helped along, no doubt, by the lack of industrial production in the area as well as the breathtaking views of the Bosphorus. A sharp rise in rents quickly transformed the area into a middle- class neighborhood, dotted with cafés and restaurants. Today, many actors and artists live here and they have been joined by numerous expats. In fact, Orhan Pamuk has his office here, and often writes about the neighborhood’s history and evolving character.

While the area is better known for its nightlife scene and cafés, there are also a number of interesting shops. One standout is Mariposa, which is a charming little retro-themed shop that carries a range of colorful clothing and decorative household items. As well as their own clothing line, this store also makes tailored items to order. The faux-vintage home décor items are particularly popular among nostalgia lovers. Along a similar vein is the clothing boutique Berrin Akyuz, which specializes in re-worked vintage clothing items as well as new pieces with a romantic feel. A favorite among locals, the store also carries a range of accessories.

Although better known as a restaurant, White Mill also has a small café/shop at the entrance that sells the artworks of well-known local artist Aida Pekin. Pekin works with silver, gold, and felt to create whimsical pieces of jewelry, and also produces a range of dainty decorative items in white porcelain. For organic beauty and health products, head to Vie en Rose, specializing in all-natural products, including soaps, creams, scented oils, and teas. All items are produced using certified organic products grown on local farms, with the Turkish rose cream making an ideal gift for friends back home. Meanwhile, one of the best record shops in the city Opus 3A, is also in Cihangir. While they specialize in jazz and classical music, you can find almost everything, from traditional Ottoman and Kurdish to World music.

Finally, when you feel that it is time to take a break, Cihangir has an excellent selection of cafés from which to choose, including Firuz Café, Smyrna, Momo, Susam and Fol in Love. One particularly noteworthy spot is Cuppa, an excellent café/juice bar that offers a variety of fruit concoctions that make the perfect antidote to a boozy night out. For more substantial fare, try Demeti, a traditional Turkish meyhane (tavern) where you can dine on a wide range of mezes while enjoying the beautiful Bosphorus view. A recent addition to Cihangir’s restaurant scene is Jash. The style of décor here is very much ‘old world charm’, which, along with the home-style Armenian cooking, gives this eatery a very homey feel. Whether you are in the market for antiques, clothing, or nostalgia items, the neighborhoods of Çukurcuma and Cihangir are great places to visit in order to experience a less touristy side of shopping in Istanbul. Both neighborhoods are steeped in history, and also have a great selection of funky shops and charming cafés, making for a winning combination.

Çukurcuma and Cihangir Shops

Classic

You will always be greeted with a gracious welcome at A La Turca—an antique store in a gorgeous four-story house. Owner Erkal Aksoy clearly has an excellent eye for all the finer things in life. As well as a vast array of kilims and carpets, the shop carries a refined collection of furniture, accessories, and antique textiles.

Ayşe Örbek is another tastefully-cluttered shop that specializes in a range of antiques, including pottery, silverware, and marble bowls.

One of the most established shops in the neighborhood is Aslı Günşiray which has been open since 1988. While this shop does carry antiques, the concept is slightly different than others in the area as Günşiray uses imported fabrics from Europe and Central Asia for her own furniture and cushion designs. With her unique style, Günşiray also designs custom-made pieces for commercial and individual spaces.

Şamdan Antique stocks a range of traditional items, such as china, glassware, and pieces of ornamental calligraphy, and specializes in Ottoman and Art Deco pieces.

Playful

In The Works “Objects of Desire” you will find incredibly cluttered shelves that manage to produce a delightful mess. Vintage household items, furniture, and clothing vie for your attention in this shop, where you could easily wile away many hours searching for treasures.

Another vintage store in the area is On Sekiz (18) Mobilya, which specializes in industrial lighting and factory lamps and is the only store of its kind in Turkey. Most of the items date from the 1930s to the 1970s, generally originating from US and the UK. Some furniture pieces and car models are also sold. On Sekiz (18) Mobilya also has another unique specialty: hand-painted signs, which are painstakingly reproduced by shop owner Selçuk Arıkan.

Galeri Alfa, which was one of the first stores to open in this area, is a unique shop specializing in antique maps, engravings, and a collection of toy soldiers. In fact, this is the only place where you can find a collection of lead alloy toy soldier sets of the Ottoman Royal Army and the Janissary corps, each piece hand-painted with historically-accurate costumes. Visiting this shop is a real treat for children and sophisticated collectors alike.

One of the only jewelry shops in this area, Evihan creates playful designs using glass and silver.

Jeweler Kristin Evihan’s specialty creation is pieces with angels that are all original. Ladybug motifs and colorful, chunky rings are also among her popular items.

The Newcomers

A relative newcomer to the area, Modern Tarih specializes in Asian and African art, which is an unusual focus for a shop in Çukurcuma. Exotic would likely be the first word that comes to mind while walking through this shop, which has the feel of the Asian art section of a museum. Modern Tarih offers a carefully-selected collection of carved wooden doors from India, stone Buddhas from Asia, and masks from Africa.

Müstamel Eşya Evi specializes in vintage furniture, particularly from the 1950s and ‘60s. Both refurbished versions of original pieces and reproduction pieces are available, along with paintings by local artists and nostalgic decorative items.

Doğukan Ires runs a small, minimalistic shop called Lüle (Arts of Tophane), which is one of the most recent additions to Çukurcuma. This store specializes in traditional Ottoman terra cotta pottery designs called lüle; The techniques for making this type of pottery were lost for years and were only recently rediscovered.

The Interior Designers

While Çukurcuma is known for its antique stores, there are also several shops offering interior design services. Run by New Zealand-born Christopher Hall, The Hall is one such store that carries both vintage and contemporary pieces. The Hall designs modern furniture lines inspired by different cultures and also provides interior design services for local as well as international clients. Meanwhile, Hakan Ezer’s namesake shop specializes in a more traditional style of décor. Having decorated the homes of some of the most prominent Istanbulites, Ezer also provides interior design services.

Galata was first settled during the Byzantine period, and, in the 13th century, the Genoese established a colony that was called Galata. At one time, this mini port city had one of the busiest harbors in all of Europe, and was a center for banking and commerce. Over the years, the area became home to a large non-Muslim population, with many Italians, Greeks, and Jews living here. During the 19th century, the area was also known as ‘Pera’, named after the main street, which was then called the ‘Grand Rue du Pera’. Beyoğlu was the city’s most refined district at this time, with many Europeans residing here, giving it a very cosmopolitan air. In fact, the name Beyoğlu comes from ‘Bey Yolu’, which means ‘Gentlemen’s Street’.

After the Turkish Republic was established in 1923, the greater Beyoğlu area suffered a social setback as the embassies moved to Ankara, and many of the area’s minorities began to leave. During this time, the ‘Rue du Pera’ was renamed ‘Istiklal Caddesi’, meaning ‘Freedom Street’. Due to political reasons during the 1950s and 1960s, most of the remaining minorities left, and the area attracted poor rural migrants, as Beyoğlu entered a period of further decline. Over the ensuing decades, Beyoğlu became increasingly dilapidated and gained a rather unsavory reputation.

However, this all began to change in the 90s as the area began to pick up again, helped in large part by Istiklal Caddesi being turned into a pedestrian- only zone. The charming red and white nostalgic tram, that runs up Istiklal Street was restored, and Beyoğlu began fighting hard to regain its former glory. All of this hard work has paid off, and Beyoğlu is once again a thriving commercial and cultural center, the heart of the modern city.

Galata Tower remains the district’s most iconic structure. Built by the Genoese in 1348, this structure has served many purposes, including a fire tower and prison. Demolished on several occasions due to fires and earthquakes, the current top section was rebuilt in 1967 and the tower is now a major tourist attraction, displaying a panoramic view of the city.

While many retail chains have started to open shops on Istiklal Caddesi, giving the area a more commercial feel, Galata is dominated by small independent shops and up and coming young designers. Until just recently, Galata was an area in decay but now it is one of the city’s most dynamic districts, as the influx of young designers and artists have helped to breathe new life into the area.

As you walk down to Galata, out of the Şişhane Metro’s tunnel exit down Şahkulu Bostan Caddesi, you will pass the imposing façade of the German School. The first shop you will see is a rather cool looking boutique, Simay Bülbül. Known for her award- winning leather designs, Simay Bülbül opened her showroom here in early 2010. Working with a range of fabrics, including jerseys and silks, almost every piece has some kind of leather detailing, creating a thoroughly modern aesthetic. Simay Bülbül’s unique designs are an edgy take on traditional Turkish leather, and these designs have become a favorite with many celebrities.

When you turn the corner, you find yourself on Serdar-ı Ekrem Caddesi, where the majority of the new boutiques have opened. This street is also home to one of the most well-known buildings in this district, the Doğan Apartment. Originally built in 1895 by a family of Belgian bankers, the present-day yellow ochre building has been beautifully restored.

On one end of Serdar-ı Ekrem Caddesi, you will find Atelier 55, a concept store selling everything from clothing and jewelry, to accessories and hand-painted cushions. Carrying a range of creations by both Turkish and international designers, everything in the store, including all the furniture and paintings, is for sale. There is also a small Espresso Bar at the back, in case you need a quick coffee break. Further down the street, heading towards the Galata Tower, you will find Aida Pekin, a local jewelry designer, who creates simple pieces in whimsical, childlike designs working with silver, gold and felt. Be sure to check out the

Istanbul collection inspired by the city’s architecture. Next, we find Sır Cini, one of the oldest shops on the street, selling traditional Turkish ceramics with a twist. With a ceramics studio at the back, owner Sadullah Çekmece creates original designs, including ceramic boxes with hand drawn pictures and textured wall tiles in modern designs.

A newcomer to the area, Tuba Benian just opened their boutique in early 2011. This store features tailored, lady-like clothing as well as many leather and equestrian-themed clothing items. Lilipud Boutique carries a range of retro-style dresses and also produces their own jewelry in a small workshop downstairs. A little further down the street, we find Arzu Kaprol’s thoroughly modern namesake boutique. A darling of the Turkish media, Kaprol’s designs include both couture and prêt-à- porter lines, and are sold in Turkey and abroad. Her clothes are very fashion- forward, using texture and pleating to create highly sculptural pieces.

Right across the street, you’ll find Lunapark Shop, a unique store that specializes in nostalgic Turkish items. Opened in late 2010, the store’s current concept is ‘Turkish Very Much’ as it carries both contemporary designs from many of Turkey’s leading designers as well as nostalgic products, which will be familiar to anyone who grew up in Turkey in the 1980s. Bahar Korçan is another well-established designer that has set up shop in this area. A leader in Turkey’s fashion industry, Korcan designs quirky, colorful clothing in a wide range of fabrics, often using layers of gauze to create a sense of whimsy. Meanwhile, Laundromat is a cool boutique designed as a platform for young Turkish artists. Here, you can find clothing and jewelry from many of the city’s up-and-coming designers.

If you wander past the Galata Tower, you will eventually find your way to this area’s other main shopping street Camekan, which is considerably smaller, but still has several noteworthy shops. Among them is Museum of Fine Clothing; a small shop carrying a range of sharply tailored women’s wear in dark and neutral colors. On this street, you will also find Lastik Pabuç, a funky store carrying clothing and a wide range of hard-to-find running shoes, catering to the area’s young hipster crowd. Paristexas carries clothes from many international designers, including Marc Jacobs, MiuMiu, and Chloé, as well as several cool, hard-to-find Japanese brands and custom-made leather bags.

Finally, just off of Tünel Square, you will find Doors by Ümit Ünal. One of Turkey’s best-known, cutting-edge designers, Ünal’s clothes are often designed to tell a story. Drawing inspiration from his travels and many diverse cultures, he often works with natural fabrics. Having achieved considerable success in his home country, many of Ünal’s designs are also sold internationally.

Undoubtedly, Galata is still very rough around the edges, but this is a considerable part of its charm. Despite its rapid transformation into one of Istanbul’s coolest neighborhoods, it has still managed to retain its original character.

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A Day on Serdar-ı Ekrem Caddesi in Galata; by Talya Arditi

In 1853, Sultan Abdül Mecit moved his court from Topkapı to Dolmabahçe Palace, signaling the birth of Nişantaşı as a residential neighborhood. Eventually, the old Ottoman Imperial Guard of the Sultan’s court was replaced by the new Republican Turkish elite, who took to apartment life and maintained the region’s reputation for style and exclusivity—a reputation that remains to this day. Abdi Ipekçi and Maçka Caddesi are still considered amongst Istanbul’s most fashionable and desirable addresses. In fact, the area is home to many beautifully maintained Art Nouveau apartment buildings, as well as flocks of stylish and impeccably groomed ‘ladies who lunch’.

Around 30 years ago, the character of the region began to change, as shops and restaurants opened, catering to the wealthy residents who were accustomed to a European lifestyle. The main intersection of Rumeli Caddesi and Vali Konağı Caddesi was the center of Istanbul’s shopping district. This growth had a temporary setback in the late 1980s and 1990s, with the opening of the city’s first shopping malls, causing retail property values in the area to plummet. However, the novelty of shopping malls soon wore off and Istanbul’s elite were enticed back to the neighborhood by new cafés and boutiques that offered what the malls,by definition, could not: exclusivity. Today, the area attracts top designer names, as well as people from all over the city, with its refined and plush atmosphere.

Nearby is the Akaretler area, so named for the Sıraevler, or Row Houses, which line the lower end of the main streets. Commissioned by Sultan Abdülaziz, and designed by Sarkis Balyan, these 90 blocks were originally built to house the employees of the nearby palace. After decades of neglect, restoration of the buildings began in 1998, and today the area is home to a number of cafés and restaurants, as well as the local branch of the upscale W Hotel chain. Although the recent trend has been for art galleries to open in the area, there are also a handful of high-end retailers present, such as local jeweler Sevan Bıçakçı (Lady Gaga is known to be a fan).

With so much wealth concentrated in a relatively small area, it comes as no surprise that all the great European and American fashion houses have branches in Nişantaşı, mostly clustered on Abdi Ipekçi Caddesi, including Prada, Louis Vuitton, Alexander McQueen, Gucci…the list goes on. Many leading Turkish labels, such as Gönül Paksoy, Beymen, and Vakko, have also set up shop in the area. Nişantaşı is also one of the best neighborhoods for jewelry shopping, with a number of major international jewelry chains, such as Tiffany’s and Cartier, and some of the best known Turkish jewelers, such as Urart and Gilan. Furthermore, the area is home to many small independent jewelers, selling a wide variety of classic and contemporary designs to suit all budgets. Nearby in the neighborhood’s Maçka district, the area’s one and only mall City’s has opened for those who want the convenience of many stores located under one roof.

For those shoppers that have Champagne tastes but beer budgets, Nişantaşı also offers a nice compromise: you can enjoy window shopping at all the top designer boutiques and peruse the latest trends, while making your purchases at high-street shops, such as Zara, Top Shop and Mudo. These stores are found mostly at the intersection between Rumeli Caddesi and Vali Konağı Caddesi. In fact, Nişantaşı is the ideal neighborhood for those who enjoy shopping in such chains but prefer to avoid shopping malls, for many mass market shops are present, but in a boutique-style setting.

With its top notch stores and restaurants, beautiful architecture, not to mention all the beautiful people, whatever you choose to do or taste in Nişantaşı, you can be confident that it will be among the best that Istanbul has to offer.

Clothing

A46 is an apparel shop that carries the designs of young Turkish designer Tuvana Büyükçınar. The clothing here is colorful and playful with plenty of girly embellishments.

Artisan’s designer Bilge Mestçi creates couture pieces in lush fabrics, including silk, velvet, and antique lace, which are all woven exclusively for Artisan. The store, which was established in 1973, also designs custom-made bridal gowns on request.

Known for her avant-garde designs, Arzu Kaprol uses texture and pleating to create highly sculptural pieces. A darling of the Turkish media, Kaprol’s designs include a couture and prêt-àporter line, which are sold in Turkey and abroad.

Beymen Blender is the cutting-edge sister of the power house Beymen department store. This is a concept store where, as the name suggests, you can find a blend of products, including clothing, accessories, and home décor.

Desa is one of the most established names in Turkish leather, specializing in high-quality leather in modern designs. Desa produces shoes, handbags, accessories, and clothing for both men and women, and is also the representative for Samsonite luggage in Turkey.

In Gönül Paksoy’s distinctive boutique, you will find a range of unique designs in hand-dyed fabrics, as well as one of-a-kind handbags, slippers, and jewelry inspired by Ottoman fashions that often incorporate vintage beads and textiles.

HakanYıldırım designs a very glamorous range of women’s wear from his Nişantaşı workshop. A favorite with Istanbul socialites, his garments are produced as a limited series and have been gaining increasing international attention.

Mavi Jeans was one of the first Turkish brands to become an international hit when their denim designs gained global popularity in the 1990s. Mavi (which means blue in Turkish) carries a wide range of jeans and clothing and now has a global store network

Established in 1993, Punto Deri is one of the leaders in the Turkish leather sector, designing a range of high-quality and stylish garments in both leather and fur.

Özlem Süer has been working in the fashion industry for over 20 years, and her experimental designs have many fans in Turkey and beyond. Süer’s designs are feminine and romantic, with her Nişantaşı store housed in a historical villa that reflects this aesthetic.

Established in 2003, Yasemin Akat is an established Turkish brand.The style here is modern bohemian,with lots of draped fabric in textured,neutral tones.

Jewelry
In business for over 20 years, Arkaik designs modern Turkish jewelry that has a very sculptural feel. The line is inspired by ancient civilizations, often drawing inspiration from historical and cultural motifs for their designs.

Diamond by Naci Şenocaklı produces classic jewelry pieces in original designs, including Ottoman inspired collections.

Ela Cindoruk-Nazan Pak is a jewelry studio and store that features the work of both Cindoruk and Pak, as well as pieces from other young designers. Their designs are clean-cut, geometric, and modern, often made with materials like resin and paper in bright colors.

Urart designs a range of jewelry based on pieces in the Istanbul Archeological Museum, drawing inspiration from the Byzantine period, Hittite civilization, and Anatolian cultures. Tableware, caviar services, glassware, and other home décor items are also produced in equally luxurious designs.

Zeynep Erol is a local jeweler who creates unique pieces in her workshop and store. Inspired by shapes in nature, Erol often works with different tones of gold to produce themed collections.

Home Wear
Armaggan’s motto is Unique By Design, and it is easy to see why. Armaggan produces a range of textiles, jewelry, and decorative items that are all in limited numbers. Inspired by Anatolia, these modern designs are made of natural materials.

One of the few antique shops in this part of town, Chalabi carries furniture, paintings, porcelain, and other rare works of art, including Ottoman and Russian jewelry.

Established in 1981, Güneş Öztarakçı carpet and kilim housecarries a particularly feminine collection, specializing in silk rugsfrom Hereke. This shop is also knownfor its quality reproductions of antiquecarpets.

Haremlique produces high-quality home linens and textiles, taking their inspiration from Ottoman designs. Sheets and luxuriously plush towels made of Egyptian cotton, scented candles, soaps, and other chic home accessories are also available.

Raen produces a range of quality beauty products including natural soaps, herbal creams, and massage oils. Personalized beauty products can also be created for your individual skin care needs.

Yastık means cushion in Turkish, and this shop carries a dizzying array designed by internationally-acclaimed fashion designer Rıfat Özbek and Erdal Karaman. You can find everything from Central Asian silk ikats to Anatolian floral prints in a range of exotic materials.

International Brands:
Major international clothing brandsincluding Brioni, Chanel, DKNY,Emporio Armani, Louis Vuitton,Hermes, Loro Piana, Prada, Zilli aswell as luxury jewelers such as Cartier, Chopard, and Tiffany’s all have storesin Nişantaşı. There are also a numberof Turkish boutiques that specialize in

designer brands, such as Polar Moda, which carries a range of international luxury brands, including Narciso Rodriguez, Monique Lhuillier, and Jason Wu.