Lahmacun (Turkish pizza)

Lahmacun—the Turkish equivalent of pizza—is a round, thin dough that is heavy on meat (minced in this case) as might be expected from Turkish cuisine. Usually wrapped with lettuce, parsley, and sprinkled with lemon, lahmacun doesn’t feature cheese at all. Nonetheless, lahmacun is delicious, especially when it’s piping hot, its base thin and crisp.

Kebap

Obviously the most famous Turkish specialty, kebap (or kebab) is eaten everywhere by everyone, either as street food or in a fancy restaurant. Well-prepared kebabs, made with the right amount of spices and served with side dishes, are hard to beat. Here are some of the common types:

Şiş

Şiş kebap is made of simple chunks of lamb, marinated and then chargrilled (along with vegetables—mostly onions, tomatoes, and peppers). The meat is grilled on skewers or şiş in Turkish, giving this kebab its name. You can also ask for çöp şiş, which are made of extra small pieces of lamb.

Döner

Döner is roasted lamb either served on a plate with rice and french fries or wrapped with tomatoes, french fries, and hot pickled peppers in a very thin bread known as dürüm (similar to tortilla). Döner can be found at all kebab restaurants, while döner dürüm is sold at numerous büfes (Turkish fast-food restaurants) around the city.

Iskender Kebap

Named after Alexander the Great, Iskender Kebab is a dish made of thin cuts of roasted lamb spread on top of buttery pide (pita bread), topped with savory tomato sauce and melted butter, and served with a dollop of yogurt.

Beyti Kebap

Beyti is made from ground lamb or beef, skewered, grilled, wrapped in flat bread, and served with yoghurt and tomato sauce.

Adana

Adana is the specialty from the southern city of Adana. The spicy, minced meat is first chargrilled on a skewer, then served on a bed of pide (pita bread) or lavash bread with tomatoes, bell peppers, and bulgur pilavı (pilaf of bulgur). Those who can’t handle spicy food should steer clear from this one.

Urfa

From the southeastern city of Urfa, Urfa kebab is similar to Adana kebab, although much less spicier and a bit thicker.

Köfte

Köfte refers to meatballs that are usually prepared with mild spices, onion, and parsley.

Some distinct varieties of köfte:

The most commonly served köfte is izgara, which is grilled and is a relatively simple version.

The Izmir variety is served as a stew with potatoes in a tomato sauce.

Peynirliliterally means with cheese in Turkish; the added component of melted cheese turns köfte into a wonderful comfort food option.

Inegölis a county southeast of Bursa, and is famous for its singularly delicious variety of köfte, slightly fattier than most other types and hence tastier.

Mantı

Sometimes referred to as Turkish Ravioli or Turkish dumplings, mantı is a meat mixture wrapped in small parcels of dough, which is boiled, steamed, and sometimes fried. Regardless of the cooking style, mantı is always delicious, topped with yogurt, garlic, tomato sauce, melted butter, and red pepper powder.

Beyaz Peynir (Feta cheese)

Literally translated as white cheese in Turkish, this is the Turkish version of feta and has the same cool, creamy texture and salty taste. It is generally eaten at breakfast, sometimes topped with jam on bread, and with olives, cucumber, and tomatoes. Also a great filling for sandwiches and börek.

Börek

This is a crispy filo pastry usually filled with beyaz peynir (fetta cheese), spinach, or minced meat. When hot and fresh, it is utterly unbeatable and a favorite on the hot meze section of any menu. Look out particularly for sigara (cigarette)böreği, which is long and thin, made with cheese and parsley, and shaped like a cigarette (hence the name).

Dolma (Stuffed Vine Leaves)

These come in many shapes and forms, hot or cold. When hot they are a proper meal, filled with minced meat, rice, spices, parsley, and occasionally sweetened with a few currants. When cold, they can be found on the cold meze section of the menu. There is also a variant of dolma (which is the umbrella term for this type of dishes) made with cabbage leaves instead of vine leaves, and equally delicious.

Olive Oil Dishes

These dishes are cooked in olive oil with onion and tomato, and are usually served chilled. Typical examples are eggplant (sliced or cubed), green beans, fava (broad beans, usually mashed), okra, enginar (artichoke), and kabak (courgette).

Pilav

Pilav can refer to plain rice, although numerous delicious versions of rice are found in Turkey. A common method is to fry a small amount of şehriye (vermicelli) until brown, then add basmati rice, water, salt, butter and cook for around 20 minutes. The result is moist and delicious, tastier than plain rice due to the butter and vermicelli. It is sometimes served with chickpeas (nohutlu) especially when sold as street food, or with chicken (called tavuklu pilav), mostly at restaurants offering home-cooked meals or at any esnaf lokantası (tradesmen restaurants).

Grilled Fish

Istanbul has a huge influx of fresh fish thanks to its proximity to the sea. Walking along the Galata Bridge, you will see scores of fishermen catching 7 or 8 little yellow-tailed blue fish on each line. At the northern end of the bridge is a market where buyers and sellers haggle furiously and restaurants get their catches for the day. Typical grilled fish served at the fish restaurants that line the waterfront on either side of the Bosphorus are whitebait, red mullet, lemon sole, sea bass, bream, and whatever else has been caught that day. The fish is usually served with fresh sliced tomatoes, lettuce, and a wedge of lemon.

Meze

Either in a fish restaurant or a kebab restaurant, you can skip the main dishes and give your full attention to the meze tray. The range of hot and cold meze includes haydari (thick yoghurt with garlic and dill), köpoğlu (chopped fried eggplant mixed with yogurt), lakerda (salted bonito), gavurdağı (salad with tomato, mint, pomegranate syrup, green peppers, and chopped walnuts), tulum peyniri (goat cheese) with pide (pita bread), közlenmiş patlıcan (chargrilled eggplant), börülce salatası (samphire salad), tarama (dip made of fish roe mixed with bread crumbs, lemon juice, vinegar, and olive oil), ciğer (fried liver), humus (better with pastırma—cured beef), fava (broad beans), pickles (generally a mixture of cabbage, gherkin, cucumber in vinegar marinated with chili).

Rakı or Wine?

Also called aslan sütü (lion’s milk) and more similar to arak versus the sweeter version ouzo or pastis, rakı is our national drink. There are many brands to choose from, depending on whether you prefer a lighter (Mest) or a moderate (Efe) or a more robust (Tekirdağ) alcohol content. Rakı is available by the glass—(tek (single) or duble (double shot)—or by the 35cl or 70cl bottle. The average alcohol content of rakı is 45 percent. You can either drink it straight up or dilute with water and ice, which turns it to a milky color (thus its nickname). If ordering wine, do not expect to find a vast selection; only a limited amount of Turkish wines are available by the glass or bottle as rakı is predominately preferred at fish restaurants. The most common brands you will find are the top two producers: Doluca and Kavaklıdere.

The countless seafood restaurants in Istanbul run from the inexpensive, no-frills (salaş), and (in most cases) sans alcohol ones, the moderately-priced, family-style restaurants, to the downright expensive fine-dining establishments. Even though a majority of seafood restaurants are lined up along the Bosphorus strait on both sides of Istanbul as well as by the Marmara Sea, there are also many fine eateries that are just as good minus the view.

What to Expect

No matter which class of seafood restaurant you go to, you can pretty much expect the same ritual. Upon being seated, your waiter will turn over your serving plates, fill your water glasses, and ask what you would like to drink. (If alcohol is served, rakı is the preferred accompaniment to your meal.) Your waiter will then either list the choices of cold appetizers or bring over the selections on a tray (which is recommended so that you can see what you’re getting).

The most common cold appetizers and the ones you should definitely try are the beyaz peynir ve kavun (white cheese and melon), patlıcan salatası (smoked eggplant puree), midye dolması (mussels stuffed with rice), deniz börülcesi (samphire prepared with olive oil), lakerda (smoked bonito), and haydari (strained yogurt with dill). Other common cold dishes include shrimp, octopus, or squid, prepared with olive oil.

After the cold appetizers, the waiter will ask you about your salad preference: çoban (with tomatoes, onions, cucumbers) or a green salad (iceberg, romaine, arugula, parsley, etc.). While you’re devouring your appetizers and eating way too much bread, your waiter will ask what kind of fish you would like as a main course and what hot appetizers you would like to share. The hot appetizers are usually fish based and include tava (fried) or ızgara (grilled) calamari, hamsi (anchovies), or octopus; baby shrimp casserole in garlic sauce (karides güveç); and fish patties (balık köftesi).

The pièce de résistance of your extravagant meal is the fish! Most Turks prefer their fish either grilled or fried, with no sauces to mask the taste. Most seafood restaurants also have their own specialties, which include baking the fish in parchment paper or encrusting it with sea salt. Unless you specifically ask, you will be served an entire fish—head and all, with a side of onion and tomatoes slices, some greens, and a wedge of lemon. You can ask to have the fish deboned, order half a portion, or order one large fish to share.

It is always best to eat fish in season. However, this is not possible all the time. Additionally, farm-fed fish is less expensive compared to fresh fish from the sea. To find out what fish are in season click here!

So, how do you select your fish?

You can select your fish from the open display. The price is determined by whether it is farm-fed or from the sea, and by the kilo. Ask the price of the fish you are ordering if you don’t want any surprises when you ask for your check.

A meal at a fish restaurant is usually a long affair and lasts at least two hours by the time you order dessert and coffee. After a dizzying array of appetizers, fish, and rakı or wine, most probably you will not have room for dessert, so at least sharea dessert or two for a totally Turkish style experience. Almost all seafood restaurants have chocolate soufflé, sütlaç (rice pudding), baklava (layers of pastry with walnuts and covered with syrup), şekerpare (mini pastries in syrup), tulumba tatlısı (a sugary dessert covered with lots of syrup), and helva (halvah). According to season, kabak tatlısı (pumpkin dessert) or ayva tatlısı (quince dessert)doused with syrup with a side of kaymak (clotted cream) and topped with crushed walnuts will also be on the menu. On the lighter side, you can opt for a refreshing sorbet. The best way to end your meal is with a cup of Turkish coffee.

Once you pass over the Galata Bridge headed towards Eminönü, you’ll see nostalgic boats by the waterside on the right. Lots of frenzy going around there, you’ll notice. The reason, of course, is the balık-ekmek.

This is how it goes: the traditionally-dressed sellers get the Norwegian mackerel, grill it in the boat, put it inside half a loaf of bread, add seasonal greens (and fresh onions if desired), and pass it onto the so-called wait staff whose sole purpose is to pass the sandwich from the boat to those hungrily awaiting their sandwich. The cook/fishermen are artists in the field of fish-sandwich making! Our guess it that he can make around 20 per minute.

Several boats, which sell the exact same product, line the shore, and a tent-like structure covers the little area allocated to each boat. Small tables are available under these tents; if going with a group, you should pick one person to order the sandwiches and try to get a table in the meantime as spaces are scarce. Before you begin munching on your sandwich, add salt and lemon juice to taste (you’ll find these on your table).

No need to juggle with finding your choice of drink—it will come to you once you sit down. You’ll see men selling a variety of drinks and they will rush over to your table to sell their beverages. You will also be approached by men selling pickles. Have it as a side dish and drink up the remaining pickle juice (don’t worry, it’s not that sour; it’s actually quite tasty and refreshing).

The whole experience takes 15 minutes. Quick, delicious, and filling. Perfect way to have a little rest from the haggling in the Grand Bazaar. After you finish up, head to the Egyptian bazaar, buy a couple of Turkish delights for dessert, and there you go, your lunch/dinner is complete!

Keep in mind that balık-ekmek is very popular both with tourists and locals, so expect a hungry crowd when you go there. But rest assured that the wait is definitely worth it!

When:The sellers are by the waterside every day, usually starting around 9:00am and closing up around 12:00am

Where:On the right side of the waterside, on your way to Eminönü from the Galata Bridge

How much:The fish sandwich is 4TL; the pickle is 1.5 TL

Lokum (Turkish Delight)

Lokum (Turkish Delight) can be found all over the world, but often bearing little resemblance to its original version that is found in Turkey. Lokum contains a variety of nuts, such as walnuts, almonds, and pistachios, and comes in various flavors, ranging from rose and strawberry to lemon and orange. To enjoy original Turkish Delights, purchase a box from the traditional Ali Muhiddin Hacı Bekir Confectioners.

Baklava

A traditional Turkish dessert made with layers of filo pastry, chopped nuts, sweetened with syrup, and cut into cubes. Baklava comes in a variety of fillings, such as pistachio, chocolate (specialty of Güllüoğlu in the Egyptian Bazaar), chestnut, and kaymak (with clotted cream, a specialty of Güllüoğlu in Karaköy).

Helva

Made from tahin (sesame paste), sugar, and nut butter, this is particularly good after a meal of fish or seafood. This crumbly sweet has a very particular, delicate texture and immediately melts in the mouth. When heated, helva’s main ingredient tahin creates a perfect mixture with pekmez (molasses-like syrup); the mixture is called tahin pekmez, best enjoyed during breakfast with bread.

Cevizli Beypazarı Sucuk

Shaped like a sausage, Cevizli Beypazarı Sucuk, a specialty of Ankara, is a sticky and chewy sweet snack made of walnuts and fruits.

Pikola Sucuk

A specialty coming from Gümüşhane in the Black Sea region, this version of sweet ‘sausage’ is prepared with a mixture of fermented grape and walnuts.

Akide Şekeri

This is a very popular kind of hard candy available in a wide range of flavors and colors. It was traditionally made with unrefined sugar and, hence, it used to be slightly opaque; however, now it is made to be either opaque or clear, depending on how the syrup mixture is prepared. Traditionally served in the Ottoman Empire to the janissaries during a ceremony that signified their loyalty to and appreciation of the Sultan, this sweet has been around for a while for good reason.

Badem Ezmesi

This Turkish variant of marzipan originally came from Persia, and was created by pharmacists who thought the sweet had healing properties. This is debatable, considering its sugar content, but a nice white lie to buy into. For the best marzipans, go to Meşhur Bebek Badem Ezmesi.

Kuruyemiş

Turks are very into nuts—pistachios, hazelnuts, walnuts, almonds, seeds of every kind, and even chickpeas come roasted, plain, or spiced. They can be found in huge quantities and varieties in the Spice (Egyptian) Bazaar, in any grocer, or kuruyemişçi (little shops spread around town that mostly sell dried fruits and nuts).

Kestane Şekeri

Kestane şekeri (chestnuts coated and cooked in sweet syrup) is a particular Turkish delicacy, with the chestnuts coming from the Black Sea region, famed for their great size. A chocolate-coated version is also available and definitely a favorite! The Divan Pastry shops in Bebek and Erenköy are good places to get kestane şekeri. Another place to try kestane şekeri is Kafkas, which specializes in kestane şekeri products. (Kafkas products can be found in their own stores as well as in many grocers.)

Simit

The equivalent of bagel for Americans, simit is the morning snack for the Turk on the go, a ring of crusty bread covered in sesame seeds. Warm and fresh, you can buy it from the sellers on the street or bakeries all around the city. A good simit is crusty but soft in the middle, and it is best bought first thing in the morning, as fresh as possible.

Döner Dürüm

Famous the world over thanks to the ubiquity of kebab vendors, a good döner dürüm is delicious and perfect on a night out when hunger hits. Döner Dürüm is roasted lamb or chicken wrapped with tomatoes, French fries, and hot pickled peppers in a very thin bread known as dürüm (similar to tortilla). Sold at numerous büfes (Turkish fast-food restaurants) around the city, döner dürüm is a quick yet delicious meal best complimented with ayran.

Balık Ekmek (Grilled fish sandwich)

One of the cheapest and most delicious meals on offer in Istanbul, the best balık ekmek is available from the street vendors by the Galata Bridge. You will get a freshly caught, chargrilled fish slapped between two pieces of bread with some tomato and salad—cheap and definitely worth a saunter down the Golden Horn.

Midye Dolması (Stuffed Mussels)

This is for the more adventurous traveler—mussels stuffed with rice, pine nuts, onions, currants, and herbs. You can get them from sellers on the street or if you want to play it safe, buy it from one of the little shops in Balık Pazarı (Fish Bazaar) on Istiklal Caddesi.

Işkembe

Not for the squeamish (or, arguably, sober), this is soup made from tripe, butter, vinegar, and garlic, and is the meal of choice at the end of a night of hard partying.

Islak Hamburger

Another tipsy choice, this translates as ‘wet’ hamburger as it’s dipped in tomato sauce. This small burger is steamed for hours and the result is a very moist and succulent snack, noticeably more appetizing in the early hours of the morning. The discerning reveler’s choice of vendor is Kızılkayalar, although anywhere will undoubtedly do!

Nohutlu Pilav (Rice with Chickpeas)

Sold in carts by the side of the road and mainly bought by drivers on a stop-off, this is a warm, nourishing, and inexpensive snack.

Kokoreç (Lamb intestines)

In the same category as tripe soup, this is definitely not for the squeamish. Kokoreç is a Turkish sandwich made of tiny pieces of spiced and fried lamb or sheep intestines.

It is another delicacy that appeals more to the late night reveler, but it is very popular and definitely worth trying if only to see what the fuss is about. In fact, try it while you can because under upcoming EU integration laws, kokoreç will officially be a no-no.

Roasted Chestnuts

These are probably the most common street snack, with a vendor to be found every kilometer or so in central Istanbul. Simple and delicious, these are served hot in a little paper bag for a couple of liras, and are great on a wintry afternoon.

A very warming winter drink made with crushed orchid root, milk, and cinnamon, salep can be bought from sellers on the streets or from cafés.

Türk Kahvesi (Turkish Coffee)

Whether sade (plain), orta (medium), or şekerli (very sweet), Turkish Coffee is best enjoyed with friends and family and is an intrinsic part of Turkish culture. Turkish coffee represents a unique style of roasting, grinding, cooking, serving, and drinking coffee.Like espresso, Turkish Coffee is strong; it is served in fincans (the delicate Turkish coffee cup), and traditionally made in cezves (a bell-shaped copper pot). Once you’re done, you can turn over your cup, let the dregs settle, and have your fortune told.

Rakı

Rakı is the national, aniseed-flavored alcoholic drink, similar to the Greek uzo. It is extremely strong and the clear liquor is usually diluted with water and chilled with ice to form a milky-looking drink. Some do prefer it "straight up" with a glass of water on the side, although this is not recommended for novices. Traditionally, rakı is accompanied with an assortment of hot and cold appetizers known as meze. Rakı is a social drink, a drink drunk in company, and preferably at a meyhane (Turkish tavern). If you drink too much rakı, be sure to search out a late night işkembeci (tripe soup restaurant). This soup with its heavy garlic content is said to be the best medicine for avoiding a wicked hangover from rakı.

Boza

In the same class as salep,boza is a nourishing and creamy drink, which is slightly sweet, served with a dusting of cinnamon on top. Traditionally sold in the evenings on the streets, it is usually the long cry of the bozacı that brings customers out of their homes to buy a cup. This thick and bubbly drink is made of fermented wheat; the grain is boiled in water, crushed, and drained. Sugar and a little bit of yeast are added and the mixture is left to ferment. Boza is ready to be drunk when it begins to bubble and has a slightly acidic taste, managing to be simultaneously sweet and sour. This sweet winter drink is traditionally enjoyed with leblebi (roasted chickpeas) in the evening.

Meyva Suyu

Of course not something confined to Turkey, freshly-squeezed juice is nonetheless plentiful and cheaper in Istanbul than in most places in the world, barring tropical cities like Rio. Little kiosks litter the city, and you can order any conceivable mixture of juices, even in the depths of winter, at very little cost. Try pomegranate juice, maybe mixed with pineapple or orange.

Ayran

A blend of yogurt, salt, and water, ayran is one of the staple beverages that serve as an ideal compliment to döner dürüm, grilled-cheese sandwiches (tost), and kebab dishes. This refreshing drink is available pre-packaged but is best bought in a restaurant or büfe (Turkish fast-food joints) where it is freshly made.

Rize Çayı

Rize çayı is any Turk’s favorite beverage, taken at any time of day, usually more than once a day. The cured tea leaves are brewed for hours with boiling water. This gives it a distinctive taste, and you will never find a Turk sullying their glass of tea with milk, although sugar is quite commonly added. It is traditionally served in a çay bardağı (small curved glass). You may come across men selling çay on the street (especially around Sultanahmet). You will undoubtedly be offered a glass if you step in any carpet shop or equivalent, and it is considered rude not to accept.

Şerbet

A very refreshing drink in summer, şerbet is another embodiment of the Turkish sweet tooth. It is served chilled and can be flavored with various fruits, among which rose and raspberry are favorites. The other ingredients are sugar and a little lemon, and if rose is used, the cup is often decorated with rose petals.