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Kuzguncuk Rediscovered

Thu, 17 May 2012 21:46:00 +0300

While Kuzguncuk is one of many small neighborhoods on the Asian shore of the Bosphorus, the role it plays in Istanbulites’ collective consciousness is far greater than its actual size. Kuzguncuk is almost the stuff of legend, as the mere mention of Kuzguncuk conjures up images of Istanbul’s cosmopolitan and multicultural past, a traditional neighborhood with strong social ties and a history of peaceful coexistence. Indeed, for centuries this pretty little neighborhood was home to a mix of Jews, Greeks, Armenians, and Turks, as evidenced by the synagogues, churches, and mosques that were all built within a stone’s throw of one another.

Located in the Üsküdar district at the base of the bridge, this area used to be called Kozinitsa, while the current name translates literally as “little raven” in Turkish. Kuzguncuk was once home to many of the Jews who settled in the Ottoman Empire following their expulsion from Spain in the 15th century. In fact, it is estimated that as many as 10,000 Jews lived here at one point, with the result that the area was sometimes referred to as Little Jerusalem. Armenians began moving into the area in the 18th century. There was also a large Greek community, evident from the original Greek name and multiple churches. Indeed, there were so few Muslim Turks living in this area that there was no mosque here until 1952.

Unfortunately, the neighborhood’s history of tolerance and multiculturalism came to an abrupt end during the notorious riots that engulfed Istanbul in 1955. These bloody riots were triggered by the false rumor that the Turkish consulate in Thessaloniki, which was also the house in which Ataturk was born, had been bombed. Violent mobs waged an assault on the city’s Greek residents in their churches, businesses, and homes, resulting in dozens of deaths. Businesses and homes owned by Armenians and Jews were also targets of these attacks, as the sentiment was not just anti-Greek, but against all minorities.

These riots were part of a broader trend of Turkification, a nationalistic movement that strove to do away with Istanbul’s minority residents. Istanbul’s minorities had already been hard hit by the 1942 wealth tax, and as a consequence of these riots, an already-underway emigration trend was rapidly accelerated as the city’s Greeks, Armenians, and Jews began to emigrate en masse.

Over the years following the exodus of the area’s long established minorities, the ethnic make-up of the area changed drastically, as immigrants from Anatolia moved into what had now become cheap housing. Many of the current residents hail from the Black Sea region. Today, the neighborhood is known for being one of the areas most heavily affected by the 1955 riots as much as it is known for its pretty quaint houses.

Nevertheless, despite the drastic changes that have taken place, Kuzguncuk is still revered as a traditional neighborhood or mahalle where Turkish traditions live on, and as a place where neighborliness and old-fashioned values prevail. While there are very few minorities who still live here, the churches and main synagogue are still functional. Even Christians and Jews who live in other parts of the city come to Kuzguncuk for religious services on the weekends.

Today, the area is experiencing something of a renaissance. Walking around, you can see signs of the gentrification that has been going on for years, as many of the homes have been restored and cafés opened.Over the past decade, the area has become very popular with expats, artists, and writers, many of whom are drawn to the neighborhood’s cosmopolitan past. Foreigners wandering around don’t elicit the same number of curious stares that they do in many other parts of Istanbul.

The nostalgic neighborhood feel and pretty wooden gingerbread houses have made the neighborhood very popular as a set for Turkish television series, many of which have been filmed here. Walking the streets, you feel like you are in a bit of a time warp. The area is remarkably quiet, despite its proximity to bustling Üsküdar. A visit to Kuzguncuk is best spent strolling around the streets and climbing up the hills to enjoy the view over the Bosphorus. You can pop into one of the small shops and enjoy a meal at one of the area’s restaurants or cafés.

Walking along the waterfront, you will notice a small square right on the water, where the locals sit, sipping cups of tea. On this little square you’ll find one of the older restaurants,İsmet Baba, a simple and traditional meyhane serving seafood and rakı. A little further along the coastal road, you’ll find the imposing Armenian Surp Krikor Lusavoriç Church, whose current structure was built in 1861. Also located on the coastal road is the Üryanizade Mosque with its carved wooden minaret, which was originally built as a mescit (a small prayer room) in 1860.

Walking up the main street, Icadiye Caddesi, you’ll see the Beth Ya’akov Synagogue, which was originally built as a summer services synagogue in 1878. Today, it is the only synagogue that still functions in Kuzguncuk, with former residents who have moved to other parts of the city coming here on weekends to keep the synagogue from closing. Further up the street, you’ll find the massive Church of Hagios Panteleimon, which was built in 1821 on the site of a church dating back to 550 during the reign of Emperor Justinian, lending it a reputation as one of the oldest churches still in use in Istanbul. The beautiful domed bell tower was added in 1911, as you can tell from its different architectural style.

If you climb up the steep hills, you will find the Nakkaştepe Jewish Cemetery, one of the largest Jewish cemeteries in the city, with gravestones in both Hebrew and Ladino, some dating back to the 15th and 16th centuries. Up on the hill, you will also find the Abdülmecid Efendi Köşk, a historical wooden mansion originally built as a hunting lodge in the 1870s. Very much a gilded cage, this mansion was home to Abdülmecid Efendi, the cousin of Sultan Abdülhamid II, who banished him to this building, forbidding him to enter Istanbul. Neo-Turkish in design, it is surrounded by a large garden and is today owned by the Yapı Kredi Bank.

Kuzguncuk also offers a number of welcoming restaurants and cafés. One of the most popular restaurants in the area is called Kosinitza, and features charming oldfashioned décor and a sophisticated European-influenced menu that is heavy on seafood. For traditional Turkish food and home cooking, visit Ekmek Teknesi, where you can enjoy freshly baked pide and an assortment of kebabs. If you want to snack while you stroll, pop into the Yunus Emre Odun Ekmek Fırın bakery, where you can pick up an assortment of freshly baked breads and pastries.

A standout among the many cafés in the area is Ilya Café, a wonderfully cozy little venue that is housed in a small building adjacent to the Church of Hagios Panteleimon. This artfully decorated café features a simple daily menu of freshly prepared soups, salads, snacks, and cakes, and is run by the friendly and knowledgeable Arzu Hanım, who picked the name as a tribute to a former Greek resident. If you want to check out one of the small local galleries, Harmony Sanat is noteworthy, while Bir Kuzguncuk Dükkanı is a shop carrying an assortment of gift items designed by Turkish artists.

Given its rich and unique history, it comes as no surprise that Kuzguncuk elicits a very strong sense of identity and pride from those who live here and even those who lived here long ago. The area is revered by both current and past residents, who are rightly very proud of the neighborhood’s special history, sense of community, and neighborliness. While there are some today who consider it historically revisionist to depict the past as such an idyllic era of peaceful diversity, there can be no doubt that Kuzguncuk was an exceptionally tolerant neighborhood where coexistence and neighborliness dominated.

Today, there is also a small trend of old Kuzguncuk residents starting to move back to the area, although this is just a tiny trickle at the moment. However, if the area’s gentrification and popularity with expats continues, in ten years’ time Kuzguncuk could be the Cihangir of the Asian side. But for the moment it remains what it has been for years: a traditional neighborhood where time moves slowly, and where residents are happy to stop and chat and share the unique history of their beloved neighborhood.

Address Book:

Surp Krikor Lusavoric Church; Çarşı Caddesi No.49 Kuzguncuk; P: (0216) 341 50 02

Beth Ya’akov Synagogue; Icadiye Caddesi No.9 Kuzguncuk

Church of Hagios Panteleimon; Icadiye Caddesi No.82 Kuzguncuk

Kosinitza; Bereketli Sokak No. 2/A Kuzguncuk; P: (0216) 334 04 00

Yunus Emre Odun Ekmek Fırın bakery; Icadiye Caddesi No.24/A Kuzguncuk; P: (0216) 310 52 01

Ilya Café; Bican Efendi Sokak No.1A Kuzguncuk; P: (0216) 553 86 90

Harmony Sanat; İcadiye Caddesi No.42A Kuzguncuk;P: (0216) 553 21 67

Bir Kuzguncuk Dükkanı; İcadiye Caddesi No.40A Kuzguncuk; P: (0216) 5329691

When to Visit Istanbul

Fri, 04 May 2012 14:57:00 +0300

Istanbul has had its fair share of global warming. Winter doesn’t really start until the end of December, we get snow showers maybe once or twice, and the cold is much less severe than it used to be. Accordingly, summer is often postponed to July, and fall has moved to October-November. Or it’s the exact opposite: we get the coldest and longest of winters, and the shortest and hottest of summers. We even had a never-before-seen storm in the middle of April.

That being said, Istanbul still experiences the four seasons, and the best times to visit are between April-July (if you’re coming from the Southern hemisphere and are used to really warm weather) or September-October (if you’re coming from the Northern hemisphere and putting on a sweater or a light coat equals great weather for you).

If you don’t get too much time off work and must travel during Easter or Christmas, keep in mind that Istanbul tends to get quite crowded during those periods. The Grand Bazaar and many other sights close down during religious holidays, so do take this into consideration when planning your trip, especially if you'll be visiting only for a few days. Ramadan is the holiest month in the Islamic calendar, and during this month, many Muslims fast from sunrise to sunset, then come together with their families to break their fast in a meal called iftar. Ramadan in Istanbul is quite different than in most cities in the Islamic world. Turks take a far more relaxed approach to matters of eating and drinking in public. While many Turks do fast, restaurants stay open, and it is not forbidden to eat or drink in public, although many choose to be more discreet when eating, out of respect for those who are fasting. If you happen to visit Istanbul during this time of year, you may want to partake in an iftar dinner, as many people find this an interesting and enjoyable cultural experience, with many hotels offering iftar dinner.

If your visit to Istanbul entails more than sightseeing, here is a list of the best times to come:

If you’re an art lover:Istanbul has a lively and constantly-growing art scene, with many galleries and museums showcasing exceptional artworks. Although the weather may not be ideal, the best time for an art lover to visit Istanbul is during the fall (September-November) when the Istanbul Biennial (organized by IKSV) and Contemporary Istanbul take place. Keep in mind that many galleries close down during August, so if seeing galleries is a must for you, avoid this hottest month of the year. (When you’re in Istanbul, make sure to check out our Agenda for the current gallery exhibitions.)

If you’re a cinephile:Istanbul is home to many film festivals throughout the year. Organized by IKSV, the International Istanbul Film Festival takes place during spring (around April), while Filmekimi takes place in October. !f Istanbul International Independent Film Festival takes place every February and March, and Istanbul Animation Festival (organized by Pera Museum) takes place around November-December. The Akbank Short Film Festival has been organized in March in the past few years, but it was previously held in September and December, too, so do make sure to check out the upcoming festival dates.

If you’re a music lover:International names and local bands take the stage at many Istanbul venues throughout the year, especially in and around Beyoğlu. But all the exciting music festivals take place during the summer. Organized by IKSV, the Istanbul Music Festival takes place each year in June, while the Istanbul Jazz Festival takes place in July. Rock’n Coke Festival takes place once every two years in August or September. Efes Pilsen One Love Festival, which has brought the likes of Manic Street Preachers and Cake to Istanbul in the past years, takes place each year in July. Akbank Jazz Festival takes place around September-October. Chill-out Festival Istanbul, dedicated to chill-out and lounge music, and Freshtival, which brings together local and international names from experimental and indie music scenes, take place each year in May. The heavy metal festival Sonisphere is held in June while the Efes Pilsen Blues Festival takes place in November-December. The Istanbul Recitals takes place each year between October and June.

If you’re a cool hunter:The design industry in Istanbul is still growing, with a few design shops spread around the city. If you want to see what Turkish designers are up to, come to Istanbul during September to check out Istanbul Design Week. Organized by IKSV, the first Design Biennial will take place between 13 October – 12 December 2012, so keep an eye out for this in the upcoming years.

If you’re a fashionista: Galata is Istanbul’s fashion incubator, and is home to Galata Moda, a festival that showcases the works of established as well as up-and-coming Turkish designers, which usually takes place in December.Istanbul Fashion Week takes place twice a year, around September and February, with runway shows that dazzle.

If you’re a shopaholic: Istanbul has the Grand Bazaar, so we have shopping pretty much covered. But if you’re into brands and discounts, keep an eye out forShopping Fest, which takes place during spring or summer, offering major discounts all around the city. We also have Fashion’s Night Out in September for those who can’t get enough of the stores during regular working hours.

If you’re a drama queen:Istanbul Theater Festival, organized by IKSV, takes place around May-June.

Private Practice

Mon, 30 Apr 2012 21:34:00 +0300

Behind our fascination with the imperial harem lies a curious question: how could such a private place have played such a public role in Ottoman history? From the moment you enter the gates of the harem, a general air of privacy and intimacy engulfs you. It is a sacred place, after all; the word “harem” itself implies grounds forbidden to strangers. But it was from this extremely private domain that various public affairs of a great empire were decided. This surely presents us with a paradox. In today’s democratic world, a private place with such a public function surprises and excites us. We imagine ourselves sharing the privileged position of living privately public lives in the fashion of monarchs. Putting one’s energy into dealing with private matters while ruling continents seems like the best of both worlds.

For any republican or socialist worthy of their name, these privileges are surely unacceptable relics of a regrettable past. I also had little sympathy for such aristocratic locales. The popular interest in the private lives of monarchs was something I found deeply objectionable. So when I visited Paris for the first time as a fifteen-year-old, I was simply repulsed by the existence of Versailles. In London, I looked the other way at the sight of royal palaces. And in Amsterdam, to the dismay of my Dutch friends, I boasted that not only did I have no positive feelings about royal families, but also that back home I have never paid a single visit to our much-famed Imperial Harem.

But all that changed a few months ago. The sight of a madman who broke into Topkapı Palace last year with a hunting rifle transformed my deep irreverence towards the private histories of Ottoman monarchs. The shooter who unsuccessfully tried to commit a massacre was quickly gunned down by a SWAT team. Watching the scenes from my TV set, the royal palace suddenly seemed like a vulnerable place that might be taken away from me. It was not an eternal but a fragile thing, I realized, something that represented a particular moment in history. I also found myself agreeing with the French philosopher Michel Foucault that the sphere of the “private” might actually be the most public place imaginable, and that without paying proper attention to such private places, it would be impossible to understand any form of political power.

So I decided to finally pay my pilgrimage to the harem. For preparation, I watched The Glorious Century, the popular TV series which portrays the intimate life there in extensive detail. I learned that its episodes were shot on location on Tuesdays, and that the Harem was closed to the public on those days as a result. So I made up my mind to visit the place on a Wednesday.

Reading the newspapers on the morning of my visit, I was surprised to find a juicy article penned by a quartet of male journalists. After confessing that they had never visited the harem, these journalists went on to set up their own imaginary harems (one writer included Patricia Highsmith and Virginia Woolf as concubines). This article made use of the harem as a public place where private fantasies could be contemplated. And now it suddenly seemed as if the harem was the talk of the town and that there was no escaping from it.

For some commentators, the interest shown in serials like The Glorious Century and the growing ticket sales for the harem are signs of an increasingly conservative culture. But watching the episodes and visiting the harem reminded me of quite a different fact— it is a place that challenges our beliefs. Take women, for example. Ottoman women were, in fact, quite powerful in the private sphere to which they were confined; they might not have had political “rights” in the European sense, but in terms of influence, they could not have been stronger. So rather than their confinement, the palace might actually be a symbol of the empowerment of women.

Once inside the place, I quickly walked through the apartments of the Queen Mother, where my attention was grabbed by the beauty of the tiles on the walls. These walls spoke of mixed realities. On the one hand, they preserved the privacy of the sultan’s mother and relatives, and delighted the beholders with their beauty. But for concubines and slaves, they were walls of confinement, and perhaps there was little beauty to be found on the tiles. Walking through the cold rooms, I came to the realization that in this place, everything was double-edged, and that the harem was equally a place of absolute power and absolute submission.

Then I made my way through the dormitories of harem eunuchs, to the main entrance. The close proximity of the lodgings of servants and their rulers was surprising. In such a supposedly “hierarchical” society, I wondered, how did they distinguish themselves?

The answer to my question is probably an architectural one. The imperial harem’s layout and some of its design attest to the genius of Mimar Sinan, the most eminent architect in Ottoman history. The buildings were divided between teams of servants, each fulfilling a different function in the palace. These distinct places were connected through various courtyards and hallways, which also served to keep those spheres distinct from each other. With this model, the sultan’s mother and eunuchs could inhabit the same place without any difficulties—they could live together, each preserving their own sphere of influence.

This model of division used a similarly architecturally ingenious method of security. Through a pair of very large mirrors placed in the main entrance of the harem, trespassers could be carefully monitored. The entrance that houses these mirrors is situated in a crucial intersection. From there, you can make your way either through the sultan’s quarters, the court of concubines, or the court of the sultan’s mother. The sinister but effective placement of these mirrors surely made life very difficult for those who secretly tried to change their spheres. The fact that the guards there would stand in the dark made it impossible to know whether there was anyone on guard. But did it really matter? Once one’s image appeared on the mirror, it was available for others to see and this was enough protection for the monarchs.

Jeremy Bentham, the inventor of the panopticon system in England’s prisons, would be jealous of such a simple solution. In his model, cells of convicts were seen by an invisible center and all prisoners were therefore required to behave themselves or face punishment. In similar fashion, keeping up appearances seems to have been a challenge both for concubines and the sultan’s relatives in the harem. All this adds to our understanding of the palace as a crucially “theatrical” setting, where power was exercised essentially as a visual, almost dramatic affair.

However interesting the courtyard of the eunuchs, the apartments of the odalisques, or the baths (currently closed to the public) might be, my candidate for the most impressive part of the harem is the imperial hall, where the sultan’s throne and the upper galleries present us with the same paradox between public and private spheres. The public and absolute power represented by the sultan’s throne appears in stark contrast to the private aura of the upper galleries that were reserved for ladies and the sultan’s mother.

Before leaving the place with an extended walk along the golden road, I realized that the paradox I found between the intimacy of the place and its political power had not been resolved in my mind. In fact, it was much heightened, and now seemed to transform into an undecipherable mystery. One can only speculate about the inner workings of such a complex political structure, just like we enjoy doing during our common fantasies or through that popular television series. It is indeed a hard nut to crack, but its pleasure lies in trying to crack it open. As we try to fathom the mystery, a public question gradually becomes our very own private affair.

Top 7 Turkish Wines

Tue, 24 Apr 2012 17:56:00 +0300

Turkish wines are just beginning to make their existence known in the world, with an array of flavorful reds, whites, and rose options. Burçak Desombre, wine coach and owner of Vinipedia Wine Consultancy, knows this better than anyone and compiled a list of the best Turkish wines as a guide for enthusiasts and beginners alike.

TOP 7 TURKISH WHITES|Compiled by Burçak Desombre

1.Kavaklıdere, Côtes d’Avanos, Narince/Chardonnay, Cappadocia 2010

2.Vinolus Chardonnay, Kayseri 2009

3.Umurbey Sauvignon Blanc, Tekirdağ 2009

4.Paﬂaeli, Kolorko, Tekirdağ 2010

5.Sevilen 900, Fumé Blanc, Aegea 2010

6.Arcadia Sauvignon Blanc 2010

7.Doluca Serafin Sauvignon Blanc, Mürefte 2010

TOP 7 TURKISH RED WINES

1.Barbare Elegance, Grenache/Syrah/Mourvedre, Thrace Valley 2007

2.Tomurcukbağ, Trajan Reserve, Kalecik Karası, Kalecik 2009

3.Kavaklıdere, Pendore, Syrah, Manisa 2009

4.Urla Tempus Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot-Boğazkere-Petit Verdot-Cabernet Franc, Urla 2010

5.Kayra Vintage Öküzgözü, Elazığ 2008

6.Urlice Cabernet Sauvignon/ Syrah, Urla 2009

7.Büyülübağ Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon, Avşa Island 2008

TOP 7 TURKISH ROSE WINES

1.Kavaklıdere, Egeo Rose 2010

2.Urla Serendias Rose 2011

3.Turasan Rose 2010

4.Kayra, Terra Kalecik Karası Beyaz 2010

5.Melen Cabernet Sauvignon Rose 2011

6.Kayra, Leona Blush 2010

7.Paşaeli Çalkarası Rose 2010

Note:The above-mentioned boutique wines can be found at specialty wine shops such asSensus Wine Boutique,Rouge, Onlinemahzen, andLa Cave. Bigger brands such as Sevilen, Kavaklıdere, and Kayra are also sold at major supermarkets.

Top 7 Candles

Fri, 20 Apr 2012 15:37:00 +0300

There is only so much impatient car honking that a person can stand and Istanbul is one of those cities where a daily escape from the bustle is much needed. If you don’t have the time for a getaway there is a much simpler way to find calm inside the walls of your abode. Turn off the lights and light a few candles, here are our top picks:

1. Yankee Candle at Tepehome: Yankee Candle is an American brand that has been making scented candles and candle accessories since 1969. With hundreds of different scents, the collection is constantly updated with new additions and is available for sale at Tepehome.

2. Voluspa: Trop and Traci Artnsen are the names behind the Voluspa collection of luxurious candles that are favored by such renowned retail stores as Saks Fifth Avenue and Harvey Nichols as well as Hollywood celebrities. Collections display a rich array of scents and can be found at Simple Life.

3. Simple Life: Apart from carrying the Voluspa line of candles, Dört Mevsim also offers a unique 75cm long candle in a coffee-colored hue most notable for not dripping or flickering due to the quality of its wax.

4. Jo Malone: Famous for its perfumes that capture the essence of the most lush flowers, Jo Malone’s candles exude the same smell into the spaces they inhabit. Scents range from wild bluebell, to mandarin, to wild fig and cassis among others and can be found in its Kanyon Shopping Center store.

5. Tay Mum: Offers a unique collection of candles in the shape of kaftans, antique columns, Greek motifs, Ottoman motifs, or Arabic script perfect for adding a touch of aesthetic to the home candle experience.

6. Ikea: While offering everything imaginable for the home, Ikea’s candles are also noteworthy, ranging in color and scent to shape and size. Make sure to take a look and a sniff next time you wander around Ikea’s showroom.

7. Lokum Istanbul: Known for their delicious array of Turkish delight served in unique pom pom and toile decorated boxes, Lokum’s candles also possess a unique range of scents and shapes. From the fez shaped silver candle smelling of orange or apple cinammon, to the Myndos Breeze candle smelling of Mandarin amongst many more, every candle seems to be ready to tell its own story.

Top 7 Budget-Friendly Restaurants

Thu, 19 Apr 2012 21:07:00 +0300

Looks can be deceiving. A saying that has held value in human relationships, but also in the restaurant business, where sometimes, the best meals are hidden behind cheap prices and haphazard decors. These places offer amazing meals where the meal is the cause for sudden heart palpitations, rather than the price.

Akın Balık

Rakı served in Turkish tea glasses is how it goes at Akın Balık steps away from the Golden Horn with a view of the old city. There is also, of course, meze and fresh fish available, with a subtle wave of Turkish music decorating the air above deep conversations and unwinding gazes.Perşembe Pazarı Ali Yazıcı Sokak Eski Gümrük Han Karaköy; P:(0212) 244 97 76

Köfteci Ali Baba

In a city full of köfte joints, Köfteci Ali Babastill manages to stand above the crowd. Located in Arnavutköy, this is a favorite with Turkish celebrities.Arnavutköy Mahallesi Bebek Caddesi No.69 Arnavutköy; P: (0212) 263 13 61

Adem Baba

This no-frills fish restaurant is located in the waterside Arnavutköy neighborhood. In addition to the tasty fish, during the winter months it also serves some of the best fish soup in town.Satış Meydanı Sokak No.2 Arnavutköy; P: (0212) 263 29 33

Fıccın

Fıccın is one of the few restaurants in the city specializing in food from the Circassian region of the Caucasus mountains. Be sure to sample their extra plump version of mantı, dumplings stuffed with meat or potato, and the namesake ficcın börek, which is very different from its Turkish counterpart.İstiklal Caddesi Kallavi Sokak Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 293 37 86

Şehzade Erzurum Cağ Kebabı

Cağ kebabı, from the Erzurum region, is composed of lamb meat that has been marinated in onion salt and pepper and then cooked over a wood fire horizontally. Served with lavaş (thin flatbread), this two floor restaurant is the best place to feast on this delicacy.Hocapaşa Sokak No.3/A Sirkeci; P: (0212) 520 33 61

Çiya Sofrası

One of the best restaurants on the city’s Asian side, Çiya has three branches clustered together, all serving the same mouth-watering regional cuisine from all over the country. Even many Turks have a hard time recognizing some of the dishes on this unique menu.Güneşli Bahçesi Sokak No. 43 Kadıköy; P: (0216) 330 31 90

Aslan

Located on the second floor of a building overlooking the Grand Bazaar, this esnaf (tradesmen) restaurant has been open since 1988 and has a menu that changes daily and features traditional hot and cold dishes. The restaurants also has a variety of fish available, that is either grilled or stewed.Vezirhan Caddesi No. 70 Çemberlitaş; P: (0212) 513 76 10

TOP 7 Spring in Istanbul

Thu, 19 Apr 2012 11:35:00 +0300

After a long, cold winter, spring is finally upon us. Even though Istanbul offers a different experience in each season, there is something special about spring that makes us fall in love with Istanbul all over again. Maybe it’s the flowers, the blue sky, or the magnificent Bosphorus. Whatever your reason is, here are seven ways to enjoy spring in Istanbul.

1. Flowers, flowers, flowers:It’s the blooming flowers all around the city that make Istanbul so beautiful during spring. Istanbul bursts with color and life, filled with green, pink, yellow, and purple flowers everywhere. The best way to enjoy this is by walking around Emirgan Korusu and seeing the tulips, which survive only for a short period of time.

2. Enjoy the sun at a restaurant with a garden:Backyard is an obvious answer to all your fresh-air, chill-out, blue sky, green grass needs. Enjoy it in the morning or the afternoon, for breakfast or lunch. We love their fırında mücver (baked vegetable patty), grilled steak sandwich, and Devil’s Food Cake. We also love watching the sun go down with a cocktail in one hand.

3. Go drinking at a bar with a terrace:It’s out with indoor bars and in with outdoor bars. And what better place to make this transition but at one of Istanbul’s best – Sunset Grill & Bar. Enjoy a glass of your favorite cocktail, looking over the imposing Bosphorus views.

4. Soak up the Bosphorus view:Now that the weather permits sitting outside, there are many more ways to enjoy the fantastic Bosphorus view. If you want a casual day or night at a humble fish restaurant right by the sea, we suggest Suna’nın Yeri. If you’d rather go for something fancy, check out Ortaköy’s Asian Fusion restaurant Banyan with an impressive view of the Ortaköy Mosque and the Bosphorus Bridge.

5. Island getaway:They may not compare to their tropical sisters, but the Princes’ Islands serve as a great getaway from Istanbul’s hustle and bustle, especially during spring with blooming flowers and (fingers crossed) less of an invasion from local and international tourists. You can hop on and off the vapur (ferry), and take a look at all the islands, or go straight to the largest one Büyükada and spend an entire day or weekend there.

6. Walk along the coastal neighborhoods: If you’ve missed the neighborhoods along the Bosphorus during the cold Istanbul days, it’s time to put the track suits and sneakers on, and trek through them once again. For those on the European Side, we suggest starting out right by the Çırağan Palace in Beşiktaş, and walking all the way through Ortaköy (with pit stops by the jewelry stands, of course), Kuruçeşme, Arnavutköy, and treat yourself to a hearty meal in Bebek. Alternatively, you can take off in Bebek, and walk all the way through Emirgan, Sarıyer, İstinye, and finish at Yeniköy. If you’re on the Asian Side, take off in Üsküdar, through the nostalgic neighborhood of Kuzguncuk, all the way to Beylerbeyi, which is famous for the Beylerbeyi Palace, and end your trek at Çengelköy, a classic Bosphorus neighborhood that is blooming with Judas trees.

7. Juice up:Treat your body to a natural invigorator: a glass of freshly squeezed juice! Just stop by one of the vendors that line the hill from Tünel to Galata, and take your pick from the season’s freshest.

TOP 7 Spirituality in Istanbul

Thu, 12 Apr 2012 17:56:00 +0300

Many people head for the wild, the calm, the quiet to find their center, to balance, and to connect to the source. There is, however, a certain beauty in the challenge of finding your balance in a chaotic city like Istanbul. The bigger the challenge, the better the return, right? If you agree, take a look at our list of spiritual things to do in Istanbul to feel the divine truth in your heart while battling Istanbul’s infamous Friday afternoon traffic.

1.Meditate with candles, essential oils, and incense: Meditation is undoubtedly one of the best methods to relax, to find balance, and to de-stress. Before, during, or after meditation, use the power of aromatherapy. We suggest you buy scented or unscented candles from Jo Malone. Simple Life’s Japanese incents smell fantastic and are ideal for those who often get headaches from regular incents. Essential oils, like lavender, bergamot, and sandalwood, can be found at Zencefil Aktar stores around the city.

2.Do some yoga therapy: Practicing yoga is one thing, practicing yoga therapy is another thing. More often than not, yoga is practiced in groups (at yoga centers or gyms) where the instructor can’t, for practical reasons, dedicate their energies on one individual or organize the class on individual needs. Yoga therapy is a lot more custom-made, geared toward an individual’s needs. Diana Jaramillo is one prominent yoga therapist based in Istanbul who offers private yoga therapy sessions, which are held in customers’ apartments to maximize the safe space that Diana creates. Each session is between 60-90 minutes, and is made up of yoga, breathing, and meditation. The sessions are guided by the customer, as they are based on their needs. The yoga therapy sessions are sought after by those who want to transform their lives, not necessarily change themselves, but resolve deep-seated issues by embodying the situation and feeling it in the body. It is a deep work on issues and is strongly suggested for those who want to enhance their lives. Diana’s sessions can be held in English, Spanish, and Turkish, and she can be contacted at 0544 607 26 08 or through her facebook page.

3. Visit old churches and mosques: Visiting old churches and mosques is not necessarily a religious act but a spiritual one. Touching worn-out walls, sitting on crooked chairs communicates, on some level, the spirits of all those who have been there before us. With such a rich history, Istanbul offers many historic churches and mosques. Just choose the one that speaks to you, visit it, and see what happens. In our Sightseeing Listings, you’ll find a list of mosques,Armenian Churches, Catholic Churches, Orthodox Churches, Protestant Churches, Russian Orthodox Churches.

4. Carry prayer beads:Although widely used by many Turkish men to beat boredom,tesbih (Turkish prayer beads) are traditionally used for prayer. Similar practices are found in various other religions, including Buddhism and Christianity. Besides their religious purposes, prayer beads can also be used for stress relief and during different forms of meditation. You can find an incredible selection oftesbihmade from a range of semi-precious materials at Tesbihçi Cemil ve Kadir Karateke.

5. Buy jewelry:We’re not really talking about retail therapy but about the healing energies of semi-precious stones. AtTohum, you’ll find a range of unique and powerful stones, such as Kyanite and Agate from Brazil, Prehnite from Namibia, Mookaite from Australia, and Larimar from the Dominican Republic. All these stones have exceptional healing properties. For example, Larimar illuminates an individual's spiritual path, bringing feelings of empowerment and precision of purpose. It also works to dissolve self-imposed restrictions as well as physical and mental blockages. Kyanite, on the other hand, can help spiritual energy to manifest in thought. It also facilitates dream recall, promotes healing dreams, encourages self- expression and communication, and assists in detaching from the idea of blind fate or implacable karma. To see all Tohum designs, check out their website here. To contact Verda Alaton, the designer behind the Tohum brand, email info@tohumdesign.com.

6. Listen to music: Even if we may forget it sometimes, we know that all we have is this moment, the present. And it may not always be easy to stay in that moment and enjoy it, but there are ways of staying in the now. Listening to music is one such way. One musician that we strongly suggest is the internationally-recognized Mercan Dede, a Turkish composer, neyandbendirplayer, DJ, and producer who is also known as Arkın Allen. He has several different projects going on at the same time, such as DJ Arkın Allen Tribal Duo and Istanbul Quartet, but he’s best known for his fusion of electronic sounds and traditional Turkish tunes. Of his previous albums,Seyahatname,Su, andNarare the most famous ones.

7. Swim with dolphins:Hug and kiss a dolphin, let it swirl around you and generate lots of energy, dance and sing with them for a therapeutic session. Although not medically proven, many argue that swimming with dolphins is healing at best and a positive experience at worst. If you want to swim with dolphins in Istanbul, you can do so at the Istanbul Dolphinarium.

Top 7 Artichoke

Fri, 06 Apr 2012 16:27:00 +0300

The origin of the artichoke, or enginar in Turkish, is unknown, a befitting mystery for a vegetable covered in numerous triangular scales that need to be peeled away to arrive at the true essence of its taste. Summer is the time for the artichoke to appear and make its palatable and healthy mark on the Istanbul restaurant scene. To make things easier we have chosen the top places to find enginar in varying forms and one recipe to make at home:

1. Insalata di Carciofi at Papermoon: Thinly shredded fresh baby artichoke served on a bed of arugula with shaved parmesan and a olive oil and lemon dressing.

2. Artichoke Cooked in Olive Oil with Fava Bean, Carrots, and Potatoes at Borsa: A classic of Turkish cuisine, this dish is the simplest and equally healthiest way to consume artichoke, while Borsa serves as the best place to do so.

3. Grilled artichoke hearts at Lucca: Grilled artichoke hearts served with shaved parmesan and a lemon and olive oil dressing.

4. Truffle Infused Raw Artichoke and Asparagus Salad at Ulus29: served with smoked beef, parmesan, egg yolk, arugula, and lemon vinaigrette.

5. Mini Shrimp with Lemon Peel on a Bed of Artichoke Spread at Lokanta Maya (served only on the dinner menu).

6. Pureed Peas with Samphire and Fresh Fava Beans served on cooked artichoke by Süprem Catoring by Vivet Rozales: you can only try this great dish by having it delivered to your house; a worthy endeavor to say the least.

7. Boiled Artichoke Vinaigrette Sauce Recipe

Top 7 Museums

Tue, 27 Mar 2012 13:50:00 +0300

Archaeology Museum

Founded in 1881 by the eminent painter, architect, and Renaissance man Osman Hamdi Bey, this often overlooked site is actually a group of three museums: the Archaeological Museum, the Ancient Orient Museum, and the Tiled Kiosk Museum. The Museum’s holdings constitute the best collection of ancient art to be found under one roof in Turkey. To get here, take the tram to the Gülhane stop and enter the park; it’s only a short walk to the Museum. İstanbul Arkeoloji Müzeleri; Alemdar Caddesi Osman Hamdi Bey Yokuşu Sokak; (0212) 520 77 40

Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts

The Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts is situated in the 16^th century İbrahim Paşa Palace, which was commissioned by Süleyman the Magnificent. Its collection of carpets is one of the best in the world, and it features excellent examples of calligraphy and ceramics from many different Islamic cultures, in addition to ethnographic exhibits focusing on Anatolian tribespeople. The museum is located on the opposite side of the Hippodrome from the Blue Mosque, near the Sultanahmet tram stop. Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts;At Meydanı No. 46, Sultanahmet; P: (0212) 518 13 85

Istanbul Modern

Situated in a converted warehouse on the Bosphorus, this museum – which opened in 2004 – has been a catalyst for putting Turkish modern and contemporary art on the global map. The museum’s Cinema Center offers film screenings which are free with museum admission. The entry to Istanbul Modern is a short walk from the Tophane tram stop. Istanbul Modern;Meclis-i Mebusan Caddesi Antrepo No. 4, Salıpazarı; (0212) 334 73 00

Kariye Müzesi (Chora Church)

Also known as the Church of St. Savior in Chora, this church-turned-mosque-turned-museum was originally built in the 6th century, like Hagia Sophia; the building you see dates back to the 11^th century. It is considered one of the finest examples of Byzantine architecture in Istanbul, and contains many impressive mosaics and frescoes. Kariye Müzesi;Kariye Camii Sokak No. 29, Edirnekapı; P: (0212) 631 92 41

Pera Museum

With great permanent holdings and excellent temporary exhibits of both Turkish and international art, this small museum – located in the former Bristol Hotel near the Pera Palace Hotel – is one of the best private collections in the city. It also features regular film screenings, concerts, and other events throughout the year. The musem is most easily accessed from the Şişhane metro stop or from the Tünel station. Pera Müzesi; Meşrutiyet Caddesi No. 141, Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 334 99 00

Sabancı Museum

Housed in a beautiful 19^th century mansion on the Bosphorus known as the Atlı Köşk (Horse Mansion), this museum contains the Sabancı family’s collection of calligraphy and paintings in addition to temporary exhibitions by major international artists past and present. There are music concerts at the museum’s activity center, The Seed; Müzedechanga, the sister restaurant to the award-winning eatery Changa, is also here. The Sabancı Museum is best reached by bus from Taksim. Sakıp Sabancı Müzesi;Sakıp Sabancı Caddesi No. 42, Emirgan; P: (0212) 277 22 00

Sadberk Hanım Museum

Situated in a nineteenth-century yalı (waterfront mansion), Turkey’s first private museum – founded by the Koç family in 1980 – showcases more than 18,000 pieces, including a rich collection of Anatolian art, antiques, and relics; archaeological remains from the Neolithic to the Byzantine eras; rare silk and ceramic collections from Central and East Asia; and more. Buses go here regularly from Taksim. Sadberk Hanım Müzesi;Büyükdere Caddesi No. 27-29, Sarıyer; P: (0212) 242 38 13

A Guide to Learning Turkish in Istanbul

Mon, 26 Mar 2012 18:08:00 +0300

Merhaba!This is probably the first word every foreigner in Istanbul learns, followed closely by teşekkürler, iyi akşamlar, and çok güzel. For tourists and short term visitors to the city, a few Turkish words always come in handy with the locals as Turks will always respond with a great smile and kind words of appreciation for speaking their language. Turkish people have a great love and pride of their language as it is connected to their culture and identity on so many levels. So, they feel like it’s a compliment when a foreigner or yabancı speaks to them in Turkish.

The amount of Turkish that foreigners learn while they are in Istanbul is directly proportional to the length of and intentions during their stay. Even though Istanbul is an English-friendly city, if you are interested in immersing yourself in the real Turkish experience and live the colorful nuances of the Istanbul life, we at The Guide Istanbul highly recommend you learn some Turkish. So haydi bakalım, here’s a short guide on where and how to learn this language while in Istanbul.

As part of the Turkic language family, Turkish is far from the Indo-European languages as it forms sentences by agglutinating suffixes using vowel harmony rather than the word by word structure of English. Turkish is built upon a very rigid set of rules that leave no space for irregularities. So, though difficult at first, once the basic rules and tenses are learned, Turkish is relatively easy to pick up.

Phrase Books for Short-term Visitors

Despite being spoken by more than 80 million native speakers, the majority of the population that speaks Turkish lives within the borders of Turkey. Therefore, your usage of the language is mostly dependent on the amount of time you spend in the country as you will get very few opportunities to practice it living elsewhere. So, the first thing that you have to consider before starting to learn Turkish is the amount of time you’ll spend in Turkey.

For tourists, backpackers, or businessmen spending a couple days to less than a few months in Turkey, phrase books can get quite handy. There are relatively few resources like phrase books, text books, and language-learning material for learning Turkish, possibly due to the comparatively fewer number of people who learn the language. Some phrasebooks, such as the ones by Berlitz, Just Enough, and Lonely Planet, are full of basic sentences that will help you get by in different kinds of situations that daily life in Turkey throws your way.

More serious learners who want to delve into the very interesting Turkish grammar might enjoy the Teach Yourself Turkish by David Pollard. The Rossetta Stone language-learning software is also very popular with the tech-savvy crowd. Websites like www.onlineturkish.com and www.turkishclass.com offer online courses (for a fee) and www.totally-turkish.com offers a range of resources (for free) that will allow you to gain a basic understanding of the language.

We also highly recommend asking your Turkish friends or colleagues to teach you some basic Turkish formalities that will definitively help you move around. Phrases like afiyet olsun (bon appetite), hoş geldiniz (welcome), and güle güle kullan (which is what you say to someone after a new purchase, literally meaning “use it whilst laughing”) are used ritually on specific occasions. The use of these sentences will surely charm every Turkish person you meet and enhance the level of hospitality you will receive wherever you go.

Why bother learning?

Though many people have a basic use of English and will be happy to help you with directions or emergencies on the street, not many people have a good grasp of the language. Consequently, the amount of people that you will be able to interact with on a conversational level is proportional to the amount of Turkish you speak.

Turkish Lessons for Long-term Visitors

Exchange students, language teachers, scholars studying Turkish culture and society, foreigners married to Turks, and basically anyone planning on spending the majority of their next few years living in Turkey often look for Turkish lessons in order to gain enough conversational skills to integrate themselves into their new Turkish environment.

A number of language schools offer Turkish classes, from the intensive to the normal, from the beginner to the advanced levels. Two language schools, Dilmer and Tomer, have a reputation for being the best places to learn Turkish in a class (usually of approximately 10-15 people). These two schools have produced their own Turkish teaching material and employ some of the best teachers in town. The language departments of various universities, such as Istanbul University and Boğaziçi University, also offer good intensive Turkish courses.

Studying with a private tutor is a less social but possibly more effective way of learning the language. Though usually more expensive than classes, private tutoring offers a more flexible schedule and more focus on individual needs that sometimes classes can’t provide. There is a network of highly qualified people working as private Turkish tutors in the city. The best recommendation is to ask your friends for information about these teachers as their students are usually passed through word of mouth and they don’t always publicize their services. An option to find a Turkish language teacher is to look on Craigslist where teachers usually post their offers.

A bit of history

The Turkish spoken in Turkey today is derived from Ottoman Turkish, which was the official language of the Ottoman Empire. After the foundation of the Turkish Republic by Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, the Turkish Language Association(Türk Dil Kurumu)was created to study the Turkish language and similar languages spoken in Central Asia. In an effort to cleanse the language from the many Arabic and Persian loanwords and revive words of Turkish origin that had lost their usage over the centuries, thousands of words were removed from the dictionary and banned from usage in press and literature by this Institution. As a result, the language was deeply transformed to the point that a modern Turkish speaker has a hard time understanding Ottoman Turkish. As a matter of fact, even Atatürk’s speeches have had to be translated various times as his Turkish was so different from the one spoken today. And this was just 80 years ago!

All of the Above for Serious Students

If you really want to master the language, we recommend a combination of all previously mentioned learning opportunities plus some other options that could supplement your learning (as well as your social life). Language exchanges are becoming quite popular among young people eager to practice their conversational skills and writing skills in foreign languages. There are different clubs in language institutes, such as Goethe, Cervantes, and French Cultural Center. Through the networks of these institutes, you can find someone eager to practice their English with you as you get to practice your Turkish with them. Many young foreigners also participate in meetings and parties that these institutes arrange every now and then where they meet up with young Turkish people in a café or bar to practice languages. Also, reading in Turkish highly improves your vocabulary skills. You can follow the news in Turkish newspapers and get books with different degrees of difficulty. Listening to Turkish music or following the latest soap opera on TV will definitively give you another highly entertaining way to practice the language.

Idioms are probably the most beautiful and colorful characteristic of the Turkish language. There is an idiom for probably every occasion that will fully capture the idiosyncrasies of life in Turkey. A Turkish idiom about the best way to learn another language goes “Dil dile değmeden dil öğrenilmez,” which translates into something like “you can’t learn another language without kissing someone that speaks that language.” And though we at The Guide don’t take this advice literally, we definitively recommend that the best way to learn a language is by making good friendships with people you can practice Turkish. We promise that as you learn Turkish you will see Turkey and its people with a whole new perspective.

Tips

- Phrase books are good up to a point. Your Turkish will soon get stuck if you don’t learn some grammar basics.

- Know yourself and use a combination of methods to suit your own personal preferences and needs. Some people like reading more than going to courses. Others prefer focusing on their speaking rather than their writing. Do whatever works for you.

- Avoid other foreigners, or at least be very disciplined about how much time you spend with them. It is easy to avoid speaking Turkish by only hanging out with people who speak English or another language you might speak. If you really want to learn Turkish, you have to immerse yourself in it.

- Travel eastwards. As you leave Istanbul you will meet fewer people who speak English and you will be forced to speak Turkish. As you travel around, you can also learn about all the different dialects.

- Don’t be shy. Turkish people love to hear a foreigner speak their language and, though you will make mistakes, they will always help you and embolden you to keep on speaking.

An Introduction to Football in Turkey: An Evening at the Derby

Tue, 20 Mar 2012 17:13:00 +0200

Understanding Turkish culture requires an understanding of the love that Turkish people have for football. This sport moves people’s passions to the point of delirium. Turkish football fans not just support their team and cheer for them, but they follow and analyze every move of their favorite teams in the papers, wear cloths adorned with their team’s symbols and logos, and endlessly talk about the matches with friends as well as strangers in every kind of social situation.

Even though football is played all around Turkey, Istanbul is its center because it’s home to the three biggest teams: Galatasaray (The Lions), Fenerbahçe (The Yellow Canaries) and Beşiktaş (The Eagles). These three teams have the biggest fan base and they have won most of the titles of the Turkish Super League, which has been played since 1958. The rivalry between these three teams is uncanny and, according to their fans, every match they play is a sacred battle of pride and honor.

And no match is more important or more representative of the football craze in the Turkish football calendar than the Intercontinental Derby between Fenerbahçe and Galatasaray. This match mobilizes more than half the fans in Turkey (33\\% of football fans support Galatasaray and 29\\% support Fenerbahçe), paralyzing the country for 90 minutes.

Daniel Silva from The Guide Istanbul team went to one of these legendary matches held on Saturday, 17^th March 2012 to report back on what it feels like to be at a stadium surrounded by screaming fans.

First things first: A Short History of Football in Turkey

Though invented by the British, football arrived quickly to the shores of İzmir and Istanbul during the second half of the 19^th century. British soldiers and tradesmen played football in front of Ottoman crowds. While an edict banned Muslim Turks to play it, it didn’t ban them from watching the spectacle brought by Greek, Armenian, Jewish, and British football players in the meadows of Kadıköy and Moda where the first matches took place.

At the end of the 19^th century, Muslim Turks played for the first time in a football team named the Black Stockings (formed by the British). Even though the players in that team were arrested during a match, Muslim Turks mounted pressure and were soon allowed to form their own teams.

Galatasaray, formed by the students of the Galatasaray high school in 1905, was the first Turkish team to join one of the local leagues in 1906. Fenerbahçe followed the steps of their future rivals in 1907 when a group of players from Kadıköy got together. But in fact it was Beşiktaş that was the first team to be formed by Muslim Turks in 1903 (even though they didn’t become active until around 1911).

The first derby between Galatasaray and Fenerbahçe was held in Kadıköy in 1909. This friendly beginning, however, turned into vicious competition by 1934 when Istanbul witnessed its first football riots during a Galatasaray-Fenerbahçe match, marking the beginning of the brutal rivalry between the two teams.

The Week before the Derby

Before every Intercontinental Derby, most Istanbulites will be anxiously awaiting the match and talking about it. The match will be on the cover of newspapers and magazines and the topic of incessant conversation on TV. You’ll also see ads all around town in cafes and restaurants, promoting their discounts for those who want to watch the match at their spot.

Best restaurants to watch the game

When there’s an important match like the Intercontinental Derby, football fans head to various kebab restaurants, bars, and cafes to watch the game with their friends. You’ll even see large screens on the streets that show the match. We suggest you head toVengefor kebab and rakı,Tapson the European Side and Havelka on the Asian Side for fries and beer.

On March 17^th 2012, the two teams were meeting in Fenerbahçe’s Şükrü Şaracoğlu stadium in Kadıköy. As always, tensions were very high before the match for which the tickets sold out in merely 5 minutes. We were one of the lucky 51,000 football fans who had the chance to watch the game at the stadium and enjoy what would turn out to be an extremely exciting match.

What to Expect Before the Match

Traffic, police, hooligans, but more importantly the excitement of fans. Getting to the stadium is likely to be an odyssey regardless of where the match is held. A couple of hours before the match, we boarded the metrobus on the European side to get to the Asian side. It was not until our fourth attempt that we were finally able to climb into one of the buses that made each passenger feel like a sardine in a box.

Tips

On the night of a big match like this, traffic tends to be worse and public transportation tends to get much more crowded than usual. Taking the metrobus, ferry, tram, or the subway is always smarter than driving on such nights.

First time derby-goers will immediately notice the intense security measures that the police take to protect football fans from hooligans. In the past three decades, hooliganism has become a problem in Turkey, with all sorts of violence including riots, fights, and arson taking place at stadiums. In fact, Fenerbahçe has been banned from having their male fans in the stadium several times for this reason.

That being said, the presence of the police doesn’t hinder the fans’ experience. Fans still enjoy beer on the streets (as alcohol is not allowed inside the stadium) accompanied by the famous Tükürük Köftesi (which literally means spit meatballs and which should be eaten at your own risk). When going to the stadium, expect to wait in line for some time (maybe half an hour) and beware that you’ll be subjected to heavy inspection by the police. Fireworks, weapons, umbrellas, cigarettes, food, and drinks are banned and are immediately confiscated by the police. In addition, anything that signals being a fan of the opposing team (Galatasaray in this case) is also forbidden inside simply for your own safety (hardcore fans will beat you up if they see you with anything that represents the opposing team – this includes wearing colors that represent them).

Once you’re inside, you’ll feel the electrifying energy of the stadium slowly fill you as you anxiously wait for the match to begin. This obviously won’t be a quiet wait – fans will be singing songs, cheering, jumping up and down, waving flags, and screaming at the top of their lungs at all times.

As the teams enter the field, you’ll sense a general anxiety rising. On Saturday night’s game, Fenerbahçe first cheered on for their superstars and then began cursing Galatasaray’s players as well as their families. If you know any Turkish, prepare to hear some of the most obscure curses during this time. Once the cursing stops, the national anthem is sang, the players shake hands, the ball is set at the center, and everything is ready for what is about to be a great match.

What’s happening in Istanbul during the match?

More than half the population is with friends and family somewhere with a TV ready to watch the match. The broadcast has started hours earlier with cameras literally following teams to the stadium, sports commentators going over the line ups and the history of the match over and over, and advertisers drowning viewers in advertising in this Superbowl-like event. Everyone is ready with a drink in hand, sunflower seeds on the table, and a t-shirt or scarf in blue-yellow or red-yellow.

The Derby

The match starts and quickly Senegalese Moussa Sow from Fenerbahçe scores an amazing goal as he receives a cross pass from the left and does a half bicycle kick in midair. Six minutes later, Brazilian superstar and fan favorite Alex de Souza scores another magnificent goal for the canaries from mid-distance to the upper left corner. The crowd roars in celebration. Now, everybody is talking about repeating the 6-0 humiliation that Galatasaray suffered in 2002. The supporters from the Genç Fenerbahçeliler group (Fenerbahçe’s most hardcore fan group) scream from the top of their voices “Sarı, Lacivert, Şampiyon Fener”. In the excitement of the moment, Fenerbahçe makes a huge defensive mistake and Galatasaray takes advantage of the empty spaces left by the canaries. After a superb pass by Necati Ateş, Swedish striker Johann Elmander scores a goal that immediately silences the stadium. Long worried faces of men grabbing their faces with their hands, empty looks at the pitch, and the incessant cursing show the gloomy mood that has fallen on the tribunes as we head towards half time.

For the second half, Fenerbahçe changes its tactic and defends itself with everything they’ve got. But, as patient ants building a nest, Galatasaray slowly destroys the Fenerbahçe lines and reaches the tier in a rather confusing play by Hakan Balta. It is 2-2, and by now, Fenerbahçe fans are reaching the point of despair. Whistles and boos come from the tribune to the Fenerbahçe players as they pointlessly try to play against a much superior Galatasaray. All singing has stopped. The mostly male crowd redirects their terrible curses at the Fenerbahçe players who now seem unable to do much. After 4 minutes of extra time, the referee points at the center of the pitch signaling the end to this adrenalin-fueled match in which both teams displayed their best football and showed why they are the best teams in Turkey.

After the Match

The stadium slowly emptied as the lines for the exit were fairly long. A mixture of anger and sadness gulped in the fans’ throats as they saw their championship aspirations go down the drain. Most went directly back home by taking a bus, train, or ferry to their neighborhoods. We decided it would be easier to stick around and wait for the streets to empty. As we walked towards Kadıköy’s Barlar Caddesi to grab a beer after such an exciting match, I thought about those first Turks that saw the British mariners play on the meadows that used to cover this part of the city and fell in love with the game. After watching this great Derby (the players, the stadium, and the fans) it is now easier to understand the magic of football which has captivated audiences in Turkey, and has made it an integral part of Turkey’s culture today.

Check out Biletix for upcoming matches and to buy your tickets.

Top 7 Influential Women

Thu, 08 Mar 2012 14:05:00 +0200

Sezen Aksu

Known affectionately as the “Little Sparrow” to her numerous fans, Sezen Aksu has long been one of Turkey’s leading singers, songwriters and composers. She began her career in the early 1970s when she was still in her teens. Her rich voice, memorable songs and her strong stage presence in spite of her small stature have sustained a loyal following for Turkey’s “Edith Piaf.” In 2002, Sezen Aksu brought together Greek, Jewish and Armenian musicians, as well as a choir of Kurdish children from Diyarbakir for a series of concerts that broke down linguistic and ethnic barriers, and promoted Turkey’s cultural diversity. She has also cooperated with foreign artists, such as the well-known Balkan musician Goran Bregoviç. As a music producer, Sezen Aksu also helped launch the careers of other successful Turkish artists like Aşkın Nur Yengi, Levent Yüksel and Sertab Erener.

Güler Sabancı

A pioneer on several fronts, Güler Sabancı took over as chair of the vast Sabancı Holding upon the death of her uncle and mentor, Sakıp Sabancı, in 2004. Known for her business acumen and careful risk assessment, she figures on the Forbes list of the 100 most powerful women in the world. She made her way up gradually, beginning her career in a very male-dominated environment: a tyre production factory. In 1984, she became the first woman member of TUSIAD, the Turkish Industry and Business Association. Through the foundation set up by her family, she supports numerous social projects. She was a key player in the development of Sabancı University, founded in 1999 and now one of Turkey’s most successful universities, personally nurturing the project she has described as “her baby” from the beginning. A wine aficionado, she also launched the Gülor line, produced from vineyards she planted in Thrace.

Şafak Pavey

One of the rising stars of the Turkish political scene and a passionate human rights advocate, Şafak Pavey entered parliament after the June 2011 elections as Istanbul deputy for the Republican People’s Party (CHP). She was a 19 year-old film and art student in Zurich when she lost her left arm and leg in a tragic train accident. Through the gruelling period that followed, she refused to let the loss of her limbs curb her desire to promote social justice and minority rights. After studying at the London School of Economics, she worked for UN High Commission for Refugees in several countries before taking up a high-level position at the UN Commission for Human Rights. A role model for many people with disabilities, she is a vocal advocate of their rights. Şafak Pavey is the author of several books, including a volume on refugee rights in Iran, written with Nobel Laureate Şirin Ebadi.

Fatma Şahin

The only female member of the current Turkish government, Fatma Şahin has already made her mark as a very active minister, dedicated to improving women and children’s rights in Turkey. Born in Gaziantep, she studied chemical engineering at Istanbul Technical University before joining Sanko Holding where she worked for 18 years. A founding member of the Justice and Development Party (AKP), she enter parliament in 2002 and became the leader of the women’s branch of the AKP in 2007. In 2006, she led a parliamentary commission set up to investigate “honor” killings, laying the foundations for her current work. As Minister for the Family and Social Policy, she has spearheaded efforts to improve legal protections for victims of domestic violence, working with women’s rights organisations to develop a new law expected to be adopted on March 8, International Women’s Day.

Yasemin Çongar

Deputy editor-in-chief of the daily Taraf and a regular columnist for the paper, Yasemin Çongar has become an influential and fearless media voice in Turkey. She began her career in journalism at the ANKA news agency in 1984, before joining the daily Cumhuriyet. In the mid-1990s, she moved to the United States and became Washington correspondent for Milliyet, writing not just on politics and diplomacy, but also arts and literature. From Washington, she later presented a television program for CNN Türk before returning to Turkey to take up the challenge of launching a newspaper dedicated to supporting Turkey’s democratization process. No other media outlet has scored as many scoops, caused as much controversy and broken as many taboos as Taraf, founded in 2007. Yasemin Çongar has faced lawsuits, like many of her colleagues at Taraf, but they have not affected her determination to maintain journalistic independence.

Ümit Boyner

As chair of TUSIAD (Turkish Industry and Business Association), recently re-elected for a second term, Ümit Boyner represents 600 powerful members, who control up to 2,500 major companies and contribute a major share of Turkey’s economy. Often in the media spotlight due to her influential position, Ms Boyner juggles numerous other activities. A former banker and finance executive, she is a board member of Boyner Holding, focusing mainly on finance and investments. The lively Ms. Boyner is also an active player in civil society. One of the founders of KAGIDER, an association of women entrepreneurs launched to help more women set up their own companies, she is also involved in several other non-profit groups, including the Education Volunteers Foundation and the Corporate Volunteer Association. Originally from Ayvalik, on the Aegean coast, she enjoys spending time with her husband Cem and their children in Cunda, where the family produces olive oil.

Rakel Dink

Rakel Dink, née Rakel Yağbasan in Silopi, near the Iraqi border, the daughter of a prominent Armenian tribesman, became an influential public figure when her husband, the well-known Armenian Turkish journalist Hrant Dink was murdered by nationalists in the streets of Şişli on January 19, 2007. On the day of his funeral, Rakel Dink stood in front of tens of thousands of mourners who had gathered to pay their respects. With pain etched on her face, she read out a moving letter to the man she had known and loved since they met as young children in an orphanage. Dignified in her grief and determined to get justice for her husband, she has become an important symbol of steadfast resistance against fanaticism and hatred. Now president of the foundation founded in Hrant Dink’s memory, Rakel Dink has taken over her husband’s mantle and, together with their three children, she continues to spread his message of peace and tolerance in Turkey and around the world.

Moving to Istanbul: Apartment Hunting

Tue, 28 Feb 2012 16:03:00 +0200

You’re thinking of moving to Istanbul and you have no idea where to begin your search for an apartment? You’ve browsed through hundreds of Internet sites and forced rounds of interrogation upon your Turkish friends, but still the options seem lost in a cloud? If you’ve reached a point of extreme frustration, you’re not alone. For expats in Istanbul, the language, vast size of the city, and simply the different way of doing things all make the apartment hunt seem finished before it’s even begun.

Unlike other European cities, where room sharing and apartment buying are eased by numerous comprehensive search websites, Istanbul doesn’t offer too many well-known search options. Nevertheless, finding an apartment is possible for foreigners, as demonstrated by the large number of expatriates moving to the city and successfully building new lives for themselves. Whether you’re traveling alone and looking for the excitement of a bustling neighborhood, or settling down with a family and seeking neighborhoods that are safe and convenient, Istanbul has something to offer.

The following is a List of Resources that will lead you to your new home:

Personal recommendations:For the single traveler, the most common resource for finding a room is through other expats. Many expats have, during their time living in Istanbul, developed an extensive network of friends, acquaintances, and previous roommates. Within your personal network, scour for friends or friends of friends living in Istanbul and ask if they know of someone with an available room. Another option is to contact a language school in Istanbul, where many expats work as English teachers. They may be able to provide helpful advice.

Craigslist:If personal contacts lead nowhere, the next best option is to search Craigslist, which is also a resourceful website for families. While Craigslist is not as common in Istanbul as it is in American or European cities, the website does offer surprisingly good results for apartment searches in Istanbul. You can either respond to apartment listings or create your own posting to find your perfect dwelling in Istanbul. A self-made posting for a room in Kadıköy recently led this author to over 20 responses with senders’ descriptions of their available rooms.

Real estate websites:For families looking for an apartment, real estate websites are the best bet. Hürriyet Emlak, for instance, lists homes and apartments for rent and sale all throughout the city. With English and Turkish options, Hürriyet Emlakand Sahibinden allow you to refine your search by selecting your apartment criteria.

If you want to make your transition to Istanbul as smooth as possible, we suggest you get in touch with Bedel Relocation, a relocation firm that offers a variety of services (such as finding an apartment for your family or the right school for your children).

Now that you have several apartment-hunting resources at your hands, Where Should You Live? As the only city in the world spanning two continents, Istanbul presents several options for expats but budgetary restrictions, spatial preferences, as well as a need for mobility in a city notorious for its traffic, will narrow one’s neighborhood options down quite a bit.

Before walking around Istanbul’s many neighborhoods,helpful may be an understanding of the country’s geographical organization. Turkey is divided intoprovinces called il, which are further divided into “cities” called ilçe. Ilçe’s are then divided into districts called semt. (For anyone familiar with New York City, the city of New York would be an il, the five boroughs would be ilçe’s, and Astoria and Jackson Heights semt’s.) While we often consider Istanbul a city, it is technically an il, and its various neighborhoods Beşiktaş, Beyoğlu, Eminönü, and Kadıköy ilçe’s. The semt’s of Istanbul would be Cihangir, Levent, Nişantaşı, Galatasaray, and Etiler. (Note that sometimes the names of ilçe’s and semt’s can overlap, like in Beşiktaş and Kadıköy.) The neighborhoods of Istanbul—both ilçe’s and semt’s—are extraordinarily diverse, not only in their history and architecture but also in their local activities and pace of life. In the list below, you will find the neighborhoods most popular among Istanbul’s expats.

Beşiktaş:Populated by both students and families, Beşiktaş is a bustling and central neighborhood with great access to public transportation. It is close to many Boshprous neighborhoods (like Bebek, Arnavutköy, and Ortaköy) as well as Nişantaşı and Beyoğlu. Chaos floods the streets, which are also lined with tacky restaurants and shops. But in the neighborhood’s chaos many foreign residents have found, in addition to low-priced apartments, a certain charm. Buildings are generally new, offering renovated rooms with large windows and wide space.

Galata:Once a quiet neighborhood with artisan shops, Galata has since undergone gentrification, leading to a steep hike in rental rates. Still, expats flock here for its history and beauty. Several art galleries have also popped up in recent years, leading to a vibrant art scene. In Galata, residents are close to Istanbul’s nightlife in the nearby Şişhane neighborhood, Asmalımescit, and Tünel, and the greater İstiklal Caddesi surrounds. Galata's history is reflected in old buildings with ornate wall moldings, wooden flooring, and chandeliers. Rooms are also spacious with high ceilings and great wall-to-wall width. Even though you won't find supermarkets around Galata, the small markets will offer a variety of expat-friendly products, like lime and coconut milk. Due to its proximity to public transportation (especially the subway line), this area serves as a practical area for those without a car. Keep in mind, however, that the area is quite hilly.

Cihangir:Similar to Galata, Cihangir is a popular destination for Istanbul’s art set. Quiet and residential with sometimes stunning views of the sea, Cihangir has attracted some of Istanbul’s most well-known artists, including soap opera stars, novelists, and painters. But expats, too, have called Cihangir home, leading to an interesting mix of crowds in local restaurants and bars. While Cihangir has long undergone gentrification and therefore seen some very high rents, with the right amount of luck one can find a good deal in this area. And if you’re really lucky, you may even find an apartment in a historical building with seaside windows and balconies offering stunning views. Even if you can't, the bustling social scene, the great restaurants, and the proximity to Taksim Square will be enough.

Kadıköy:Quieter and slower in pace, Kadıköy is often seen as a break from the chaotic European side. Though largely residential, small cafes and restaurants lining the neighborhood streets give some feeling of bustle to this Asian Side neighborhood. With apartments at low rental rates and diverse offerings in room size—many with great wall-to-wall and floor-to-ceiling space—Kadıköy is certainly the neighborhood that gives residents the most bang for their buck. Apartments with front- and back-side gardens add to residents’ feeling of living in a quainter, more residential Istanbul. The area is very close to ferry stops and other public transport, which makes it quite easy to access the rest of Istanbul.

Etiler:Etiler is one of Istanbul’s most modern neighborhoods, boasting the perks of many Western cities with its malls, sports clubs, and modern apartment buildings. For this reason, Etiler is also one of the priciest areas to live in. Situated close to Levent, Istanbul’s business district, Etiler makes itself a sensible option for anyone on business in Istanbul. The area’s new apartment buildings offer its residents large spaces and the proximity to a wide variety of restaurants and businesses.

Zekeriyaköy:A quiet and greener area located on Istanbul’s northern seacoast, Zekeriyaköy makes itself a great location for anyone seeking a more suburban-like environment. With the arrival of modern villas next to the old town, Zekeriyaköy has become home to both celebrities and well-known businessmen alike. Several popular restaurants, including Fincan and Tike, in addition to a weekly bazaar selling local produce, can be found in Zekeriyaköy. With its spacious rooms and picturesque scenery, Zekeriyaköy’s primeness will certainly show in its housing prices.

Kemerburgaz: Located approximately 30 minutes away from central Istanbul, Kemerburgaz is Istanbul’s first neighborhood with an American suburbia-like environment. After the establishment of Kemer Country (the first of the many modern suburban complexes in Kemerburgaz) in the early 2000s, the area has grown and turned into a full-blown suburban town with a wide range of cafes, restaurants, and sports facilities that makes Kemer a self-sufficient and highly attractive area, especially for young families.

Pricing

In all the neighborhoods on our list, you can expect to find a two-bedroom apartment for rent for approximately 2,000TL (plus or minus 500 TL). The quality of the apartment for this price, however, will differ greatly from one neighborhood to another. For example, a 2,000TL apartment in Galata is highly likely to be quite small and old, whereas the same price will get you a clean, modern, and spacious apartment in Beşiktaş or Kadıköy. In most neighborhoods (especially Cihangir, Galata, Etiler, and Kemerburgaz), you’ll witness prices skyrocket when a fantastic view is included in the apartment, and you’ll see the pricing change from TL to Euro or Dollar.

Top 7 Fish Delicacies

Thu, 23 Feb 2012 17:29:00 +0200

For some, eating fish in Istanbul calls to mind balık ekmek (fish sandwiches) bought from boats on the Golden Horn. For others, it’s a fish lunch at Anadolu Kavağı, or at a restaurant underneath the Galata bridge. While all of the above are certainly worth trying, they’re hardly the last word on the subject. Here are seven novel suggestions (five local fish delicacies, and two places to buy fresh fish) from The Guide’s editorial staff.

Çiroz

Çiroz is the Turkish word for mackerel that has been cured in salt, hung and dried, and marinated in vinegar. Served topped with fresh dill, it’s best purchased from Bebek Balık Evi in Bebek, or from Reşat Balık Market in the Galatasaray Balık Pazarı (Fish Market).

Lakerda

Lakerda, the so-called “Turkish sushi,” is made from bonito fish (a member of the tuna family), and is prepared through a lengthy curing process. It’s typically served as an appetizer with copious amounts of lemon juice and olive oil; The Guide recommends buying it from Bebek Balık Evi or Reşat Balık Market.

Caviar

This delicacy consisting of sturgeon roe has become a cliché for expensive, rarefied taste in food (as in the Shakespearean expression “caviar to the general.”) It’s delicious all the same. Caviar from Iran – in beluga and asietra varieties – can be purchased at Şütte in Etiler.

Bottarga

Bottarga, often known as the “poor man’s caviar” (being four times less expensive than the most affordable form of caviar) consists of the salted, dried, and cured eggs of the mullet fish, which have been coated in beeswax as a preservative. The Guide recommends you purchase this product at Reşat Balık Market.

Smoked salmon

No prizes for guessing what somon means in Turkish. While it may be difficult to find authentic lox (cured salmon) in Istanbul, expatriate New Yorkers can take consolation in the fact that the smoked salmon at Delicco in Üsküdar is very good. Bagels and cream cheese are optional.

Balıkev

A large, modern shopping mall is probably not the first place you’d expect to find a fish market. Nonetheless, at Balıkevin the İstinyePark shopping mall, you can buy your own fish, have it cooked for you on the spot to take home, or eat at Balıkev’s restaurant, which offers a number of unique dishes including salmon döner.

Balık Pazarı

If you still can’t make up your mind what kind of fish to try, just browse the stalls at the Balık Pazarı (fish market) next to Çiçek Pasajı, listen to the fishmongers advertising their wares, and pick whatever strikes your fancy. All kinds of seasonal fish are available here daily.

Bebek Balık Evi, Cevdetpaşa Caddesi No. 226, Bebek; P: (0212) 265 05 36

Reşat Balık Market, Sahne Sok. Balık Pazarı No:30, Galatasaray; P: (0212) 293 60 91

Şütte, Nispetiye Caddesi No. 114/A, Etiler; P: (0212) 263 66 56

Delicco, Ünalan Mahallesi Aşık Şenlik Sokak (Selvi Sokak) No.33B; P: (0542) 475 58 89

Balıkev, İstinyePark Shopping Mall, İstinye Bayırı Caddesi No. 73, İstinye; P: (0212) 345 57 74

Balık pazarı, Sahne Sokak, Galatasaray

Best of Istanbul: Picked by our Followers on Twitter

Thu, 16 Feb 2012 20:02:00 +0200

Istanbul is a well of wonders both for locals and tourists. We got really curious and asked our followers on Twitter where they love the most in Istanbul. Take a look at their responses below, join the conversation on Twitter (www.twitter.com/tgistanbul), and share with us where “your place” in the city is.

Winda_Gulnaz: “Beyoğlu - istiklal caddesi - nostaljik tramvay”

The tram on İstiklal Caddesi (Istiklal Street) is as functional as it is nostalgic. For more information on how to get around the city, click here.

Alison__Ramsey: “Shopping on bağdat caddesi”

The heart of shopping on the Asian side is definitely Bağdat Caddesi (Bağdat Street), especially the Şaşkınbakkalareaand Suadiye. The same goes for Nişantaşıon the European side.

Gokceagsu: “I would say cihangir for sure”

We all love Cihangir - it’s even listed on The Guardian as one of the top 5 cities to live in the world. Curious much? Check out our neighborhood profile of Cihangir to learn more.

Lauren_Manuel: “The blue mosque, Aya Sofia, ferry over Bosphorus, Buyukada Island.”

Sultan Ahmet Camii (The Blue Mosque) and Aya Sofya (Hagia Sophia) are must-see sights for all first-time visitors of Istanbul. But there is more to seeSultanahmetother than The Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia.Unlike the buzzing Sultanahmet area, Büyükadais a calm island that serves as a perfect getaway from the city. For the past few years, it’s been attracting a steady stream of tourists, too.

Deryakitapci: “Galata and the Cafe at Istanbul Modern - #breathtaking”

A must-do in Istanbul is to gaze at the city from the top of the Galata Kulesi (Galata Tower). Read about our neighborhood review to discover more about the Galata area. And next time you’re at the Istanbul Modern Café, make sure you discover the hidden spots in Karaköy.

DTriantaphyllou: “Cihangir of course and walking from there to Cibali via the Galata Bridge and through the sokaks after Eminonu...in the snow.”

The city is even more beautiful in the snow, and there are a lot that you can enjoy during the wintertime like drinking traditional Turkish drinks (salep and boza) or enjoying a bowl of delicious soup.

CoralieNicolao: “Fener for the authenticity and çamlıca for the amazing view”

If you like authentic neighborhoods, check out Samatya on the European Side.

SuzetteVanDelay: “Bosphorus!”

You can take a trip up the Bosphorus with a ferry, yacht, cruise, or even with Sultan Kayıkları (Sultan Boats) just like the ones that Ottoman Sultans used to travel with.

Auberbergine: “The view of the city from over the bridge!”

The view over the bridge is indeed unprecedented. Why not enjoy it with a glass of bubbly in a limo?

Semsiistanbul: “Kalamis to Caddebostan coast; good for a walk with my dog.”

Do you know what else is great on the coastal road? Outdoor sports! Running, bicycling, swimming, windsurfing…

Dilapa: “Getting lost in the mysterious charm of the basilica cistern, the bohemian feel of Galata and running along the Bosphorus!”

Mystery indeed! Yerebatan Sarnıcı (The Basilica Cistern) is a must-see on a visit to Istanbul. For more on what to see on your next trip, check out our list of the TOP 7 must-see sightsin Istanbul.

Serayulucankanb: “I was happy with everything, I love Istanbul.”

Who doesn’t love Istanbul? It’s a magic cityafter all.

TOP 7 Turkish Restaurants

Wed, 15 Feb 2012 17:54:00 +0200

It’s one thing to experience Turkish food and it’s another thing to experience it at places that do it best. Take a look at our list of TOP 7 Turkish Restaurants if you want to taste the best that Turkish cuisine has to offer.

Borsa:Borsa has been serving top-quality Turkish cuisine since 1927, and features elegant décor and excellent service. The menu is made up of Turkish classics like lahmacun (Turkish-style pizza); içli köfte (kibbeh); mantı (Turkish-style ravioli); lakerda (salted bonito); imambayıldı (eggplant stuffed with tomatoes, onion, and garlic); and a wide variety of meat dishes, such as iskender kebap (roasted lamb spread over buttery pita bread, topped with a savory tomato sauce, a drizzle of butter, and a dollop of yogurt) and kuzu pirzola (lamb chops). This is not light fare, so come with an appetite! Lütfi Kırdar Convention Center, Gümüş Caddesi No. 4, Harbiye; P: (0212) 232 42 01

Enstitü: Enstitü is the workplace and (skilled) experimentation zone of Istanbul Culinary Institute’s third-year students. The cuisine on offer is mostly Turkish and Mediterranean, with some international dishes available. The menu changes daily to allow the students full artistic scope and includes a variety of appetizers, main courses, and desserts. Some highlights of previous menus includemücver (a vegetable fritter usually prepared with zucchini) made with pumpkin; lamb stew with dried fruits, almonds, and sumac; andköfte (meatballs) with pita bread, yogurt, and tomato sauce.Meşrutiyet Caddesi No. 59, Tepebaşı; P: (0212) 251 22 14

Çiya:One of the most popular locations on the Asian Side, Çiya offers some of the most unique Turkish food in the city in a casual and traditional setting. Using seasonal ingredients sourced from all over the country, Çiya makes mouth-watering dishes that even many locals have never heard of. Güneşli Bahçesi Sokak No. 43-44, Kadıköy. (0216) 330 31 90

Hünkar:Hünkar is an upscale version of a classic tradesmen’s restaurant, with its tables covered with white tablecloths and its interior elegantly decorated with wood paneling, memorabilia, and Ottoman art on the walls. Founded in 1950, the restaurant specializes in home-style Turkish and Ottoman cuisine. Mim Kemal Öke Caddesi No. 9, Nişantaşı; P: (0212) 225 46 65

Nar Lokanta: Located in the heart of Sultanahmet by the Grand Bazaar’s Nuruosmaniye gate, Nar Lokanta offers traditional Turkish food at its freshest and lightest, with dishes made using all-natural, regional products from throughout Anatolia, and the best quality olive oil. The menu at Nar Lokanta features familiar Turkish classics as well as a number of less common regional dishes, covering everything from Ottoman palace dishes to humble village fare. Armaggan, Nuruosmaniye Caddesi No.65, 5th Floor, Nuruosmaniye; P: (0212) 522 2800

Park Şamdan: Open since 1982, Park Şamdan is a long-established favorite with locals and it is favored for its elegant and refined atmosphere. The restaurant specializes in classic Turkish dishes but with a continental touch so expect to find leg of lamb soup next to risotto on the menu! Mim Kemal Öke Caddesi No. 18/1, Nişantaşı; P: (0212) 225 07 10

Kiva: Kiva, the European side’s answer to Çiya, is right in the shadow of the Galata Tower, and offers traditional Anatolian dishes from every part of Turkey, particularly the East and Southeast. The menu has over a dozen kinds of soup and even more varieties of stew, casserole, and sarma and dolma (stuffed vegetables); some dishes feature exotic ingredients like thistle and cowpea. There are also Turkish comfort foods like karnıyarık (eggplant filled with minced meat), and a profusion of salads/appetizers including Middle Eastern offerings like hummus, muhammara, and baba ganoush. Kiva, Galata Kulesi Meydanı No: 4, Galata; P: (0212) 292 00 37

Top 7 Romance

Wed, 08 Feb 2012 17:51:00 +0200

There’s no right way to be romantic. Whether your image of romance is a bouquet of flowers, a diamond ring, or a weekend getaway for two, here is our list of Top 7 Romance in Istanbul for those who want to bring butterflies back into their stomach.

Jewelry from Gilan

Sapphires, diamonds, emeralds, pearls...you’ll find all these and more in Gilan’s east-meets-west designs. Remember, you can’t go wrong with jewelry! Akmerkez Shopping Mall, Nispetiye Caddesi No.114, Etiler; P: (0212) 282 05 76. For more locations, click here.

Lingerie from Agent Provocateur

Bring sexy back into your bedroom with irresistible lingerie from Agent Provocateur. Enough said. Kanyon Shopping Mall, Büyükdere Caddesi No. 185, Levent; P: (0212) 319 11 55

A night at Rooms Galata

Spend the night at Rooms Galata, the boutique-like residence in the heart of Galata. You’ll be in a historic room just steps away from the magnificent Galata Tower…add some champagne and strawberries, and you reach the top of the romantic scale. Şahkulu Mahallesi Istiklal Caddesi Kumbaracı Yokuşu No.37, Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 293 31 86-87

A spa treatment at Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at the Bosphorus Spa & Hammam

Indulge in a massage, facial treatment, private hammam...or all three! Relaxing together in the luxurious setting of the Four Seasons Spa will make for a memorable day. Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at the Bosphorus, Çırağan Caddesi No. 28, Beşiktaş; P: (0212) 381 40 00

A tête-à-tête at Chalet

Fireplace? Check. Cozy atmosphere? Check. Great food? Check. Warm up your hearts during the cold winter days at this cute little Alpine-style getaway. Bayıldım Caddesi No. 2 Swissotel, Beşiktaş; P: (0212) 326 11 00

Flowers from Ege Soley Event & Corporate Flowering

The way to a man’s heart is through his stomach – no question there. And many would argue that the way to a woman’s heart is through flowers. Süleyman Seba Caddesi No. 83/A, Akaretler; P: (0212) 227 09 22

Jo Malone

Spoil your senses with Jo Malone products – perfumes, colognes, candles, soaps. You can surprise your lover with abubble bath, or a bath decorated with scented candles. Who knows how they’ll return the favor! Kanyon Shopping Mall Büyükdere Caddesi No.185, Levent; P: (0212) 319 11 72

TOP 7 Turkish Drinks

Mon, 06 Feb 2012 19:29:00 +0200

Turkish cuisine is not just about the food but also about the drinks. From sweet to salty, from warm to cold, there is a whole spectrum of drinks that must be tried. Take a look at our list of TOP 7 Turkish Drinks and make sure you go through at least half on your next visit to Istanbul!

Ayran: A frothy blend of yogurt, salt, and water, ayran is a staple Turkish drink that serves as an ideal complement to grilled meat dishes. This refreshing drink is available pre-packaged but is best enjoyed at Saray Muhallebicisi where it’s freshly made. İstiklal Cad. No. 173, Beyoğlu, P: (0212) 292 34 34

Boza: Traditionally sold on chilly winter evenings in on the streets, boza is a creamy and slightly sweet yet acidic drink made from fermented wheat. It is best enjoyed with a dusting of cinnamon on top at Vefa Bozacısı. Vefa Katip Çelebi Caddesi No. 104, Fatih; P: (0212) 519 49 22

Rakı: Turkey’s national drink, rakı is an aniseed-flavored spirit (similar to the Greek uzo). It is extremely strong and the clear liquor is usually diluted with water and chilled with ice to form a milky-looking drink. Some do prefer it "straight up" with a glass of water on the side, although this is not recommended for novices. Rakı is best enjoyed by the water with a seafood meal. (Click here to see our Top 7 Seafood Restaurants.)

Çay: Turkish tea from the Black Sea region is by far the most popular drink in the country, taken at any time of day, usually more than once a day. It is traditionally served in a çay bardağı (small curved glass) and is best enjoyed at Bebek Kahve with simit (a ring of crusty bread covered in sesame seed). Cevdet Paşa Caddesi No. 137, Bebek; P: (0212) 257 54 02

Salep: A sweet and comforting Turkish classic, salep is a very warming winter drink made with crushed orchid root, milk, and cinnamon, and is best enjoyed at Gezi Istanbul. İnönü Caddesi No. 5, Taksim; P: (0212) 292 53 53

Şerbet: A sweet, cold, fruit-flavored drink, şerbet comes in a variety of unique flavors, such as pomegranate and tamarind. It is best enjoyed during warm summer days at Asitane. Kariye Camii Sokak No. 6, Edirnekapı; P: (0212) 534 84 14

Turkish Coffee: Whether you drink it plain or sweet, Turkish coffee is always strong and served in small, delicate cups called fincan. An intrinsic part of Turkish culture, it is best enjoyed with a friend at Mandabatmaz. You can also pick up the best Turkish coffee at Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi. Mandabatmaz: Olivia Geçidi No. 1/A, Beyoğlu. Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi: Tahmis Sokak No. 66, Eminönü; P: (0212) 522 00 80)

Sultanahmet: The Tourist Heart of Istanbul

Wed, 25 Jan 2012 12:25:00 +0200

It doesn’t matter whether you will be in Istanbul for a couple of days or a couple of weeks – the one neighborhood you are absolutely certain to visit is Sultanahmet, the neat little area at the tip of the historic peninsula where the city first sprang to life. This is where the vast majority of the big-ticket attractions can be found: Topkapı Palace, Aya Sofya (Hagia Sophia), the Sultanahmet (Blue) Mosque, the Aya Sofya Hürrem Sultan Hamamı, the Yerebatan (Basilica) Cistern, the Hippodrome, and the Archaeological and Turkish and Islamic Arts Museums.

This is a jam-packed sightseeing area par excellence. Although there are plenty of shops, restaurants and bars, many are pretty run-of-the-mill, catering for tourists on rushed trips and tight budgets. In contrast, some of the city’s finest and most interesting hotels including the Four Seasons Sultanahmet, the Ottoman Hotel Imperial, Yaşmak Sultan Hotel, Burkçin Suites and the Ayasofya Konakları can be found in Sultanahmet, offering their guests not just superb views from their roof terraces but also easy access to the attractions. More hotels to suit all budgets can be found in neighboring Cankurtaran.

Sultanahmet in history

When the Greek colonist Byzas first founded Byzantium, the settlement that was to become Constantinople and then Istanbul, he chose the tip of the peninsula that juts out into the Bosphorus and the Sea of Marmara. It was here that the Byzantines built their Great Palace, the remains of which lie beneath modern Sultanahmet and pop up occasionally, and most unmissably, in the Great Palace Mosaics Museum, beside the Arasta Bazaar; and it was here that the Emperor Justinian had the great church of Hagia Sophia built in 537. When the Ottomans captured the city in 1453 they were keen to emphasize continuity with the past, so Sultan Mehmed the Conqueror began work on what became Topkapı Palace on the same site originally chosen by Byzas.

Visiting Istanbul’s mosques

There’s a bit of etiquette around mosque-visiting that it’s good to be aware of. Most importantly, everyone must remove their shoes before setting foot on a carpet. Women should cover their heads, shoulders and knees. Ideally men should also be modestly dressed. To help, mosques often keep a supply of scarves and wraps by the door for visitors, who are welcome except during prayer times.

It wasn’t until the 17^th century that the area acquired its modern name, when Sultan Ahmed I commissioned Sedefkar Mehmed Ağa to build the great mosque facing Hagia Sophia that still bears his name (although it’s much better known to visitors as the Blue Mosque). Aside from the new Sabancı Merkez Camii in Adana, it’s the only mosque in Turkey to feature six minarets.

Sultanahmet continued in importance through until the 19^th century, when the artist and archaeologist Osman Hamdi Bey commissioned the main building of the Archaeological Museum in the grounds of Topkapı Palace. At that time an imposing Palace of Justice closed off the east side of Ayasofya Square, with a prison round the corner in the building that now houses the splendid Four Seasons Sultanahmet Hotel. The site is slated to become an Archaeological Park although legal problems have delayed its opening.

What to see in Sultanahmet

If you only have three days to explore the area you should probably head first for the collection of kiosks, courtyards and gardens that make up Topkapı Palace, allowing a minimum of four hours to see the highlights. Most people will want to make straight for the Treasury to gawp at the sultans’ egg-sized rubies, emeralds and diamonds, as well as at thrones and cradles made entirely from gold. Romantics will love the Harem, the lavishly decorated private quarters where the sultans’ concubines and children lived under the ever-watchful eye of their eunuch guards. Allow time to admire the hall displaying the sultans’ kaftans, and the kitchens with their extensive porcelain collection. The view of the confluence of the Bosphorus and the Sea of Marmara from the İftar Canopy, where the sultans used to break their fast during Ramadan, is absolutely magical.

Just steps away from the palace, Hagia Sophia was the largest church in the world at the time that it was completed in 537, and it is still one of the most splendid with its soaring dome and glittering Byzantine mosaics. After exploring it, pop round to the side of the building to admire the tombs of some of the sultans of the Ottoman Golden Age. A Carpet Museum is due to open in the İmaret (Soup Kitchen) that was added along with the minarets when the church was turned into a mosque in 1453.

In the corner of the square facing Hagia Sophia is the Ayasofya Hürrem Sultan Hamamı(Ayasofya Haseki Hürrem Hamamı),the city’s single most spectacular Turkish bath, designed by Sinan for Roxelana (Haseki Hürrem), the much-loved wife of Sultan Süleyman the Magnificent, in 1556. Behind it stands the splendid, soaring pile of grey marble, tumbling domes, and minarets that is the Sultanahmet (Blue) Mosque, still very much in use today although tourists are welcome to admire its tiled interior outside prayer times.

Running alongside the Blue Mosque is the Hippodrome, where Byzantine chariot races attracted a fanatical following. Walk down its spine to admire Kaiser Wilhelm’s Fountain and the Egyptian Obelisk, and then cross the road to visit the marvellous Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts, housed in a 16^th-century palace. Until the new Carpet Museum opens this is home to the city’s finest collection of Turkish carpets.

Off the west side of Sultanahmet Square is the Yerebatan (Basilica) Cistern, one of Istanbul’s most unexpected and yet most romantic attractions: a vast vaulted space held up by 336 columns that once acted as an underground reservoir. Don’t miss the upside-down Medusa’s head reused as a column base, proof that the builders regarded fine old Roman sculptures as no more than chunks of reusable building material.

Istanbul’s take on the British Museum is the Archaeology Museum, off the path running down from Topkapı Palace to Gülhane Park. The oldest and most interesting part is the Çinili Köşk (Tiled Pavilion), dating back to the 15^th century and containing a superb collection of Turkish ceramics. In the main building the finest exhibit is probably the spendid Alexander Sarcophagus, brought here from Sidon in the days when Lebanon was still part of the Ottoman Empire. It dates from the 4^th century BC.

On the south side of the Blue Mosque, the Arasta Bazaar is Sultanahmet’s most interesting shopping street, with a string of tiny boutiques selling everything from antiques to contemporary ceramics. Two particularly interesting shops to look out for are Jennifer’s Hamam, which sells hand-woven towels and bathrobes sourced from all around Turkey; and Cocoon, which sells colourful modern takes on the ancient art of felt-making.

Where to eat in Sultanahmet

Köfte(meatballs) are a staple of the Turkish diet and the simpleTarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi Selim Ustaon Divan Yolu is the perfect place to try them out withpiyaz(white beans), big hunks of bread and some soothingayran(a salty yogurt drink). Just up the road,Çiğdem Pastanesialways has a mouth-watering choice of cakes in the window. Pushing the boat out, theSeasonsRestaurantin the Four Seasons Sultanahmet is a top-notch place to eat international cuisine whileMatbah, at the Ottoman Hotel Imperial, focuses on Ottoman cuisine.

Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi Selim Usta;Divan Yolu No. 4; P: (0212) 511 39 60

Çiğdem Pastanesi;Divan Yolu No. 62/A; P: (0212)526 88 59

Seasons;Four Seasons Hotel, Tevkifhane Sokak No. 1; P: (0212) 638 82 00,

Matbah;Ottoman Hotel Imperial, Caferiye Sokak No. 6/1; P: (0212)513 61 50

The Expat's Bible

Fri, 13 Jan 2012 17:21:00 +0200

One of Istanbul’s strengths is in its residents. And I’m not just talking about the ones who hail a Turkish citizenship – Istanbul is home to a broad network of expatriates that have definitively carved their niche in the city. Buffered by student exchange programs, such as Erasmus, and the convincing powers of Istanbul’s culinary scene, nightlife, and historical attractions – to say nothing of its absolute beauty – expats are staying far longer than the “tourist” tag would do justice. And all for good reason.

Here are some expat-friendly places, faces, and spaces to keep the excitement burning and the city perpetually welcoming.

Everything Istanbul

As if Istanbul weren’t overwhelming enough for a local, the transition from a bright-eyed newcomer waiting for the Havaş at the Atatürk Airport to a trans-continental coasting, çay-chugging, street-cat-immunity bearing de facto Turk can’t be done alone. The Guide Istanbul is as detailed, forward, and all-encompassing as it gets. It is the go-to resource for all expats, travelers, and Turks alike, with reliable, up-to-date information, a flair for creative, hole-in-the-wall finds, and a voice that speaks to us all. The Guide Istanbul is devoted to giving you the opportunity to enjoy Istanbul completely, with visuals to motivate, stories to fascinate, and reviews to lure.

Connect

First things first. The best way to keep in touch is to find others who are looking for the same thing: a community. Any question you may have about integrating in the city can be answered by the following websites and their forums. From questions about visas and documents to finding a tennis partner, these portals should be bookmarked in every expat’s laptop.

CouchSurfing.com: This is great for meeting other expats in the city. Technically, it is for finding a place to crash for free (and this is strictly enforced across the site), but it has turned into something of a social network for travelers and expats alike.

SublimePortal.com: Check out blogs and interact with other expats here.

AlloExpat.com: General forum to connect expats with expats.

BritishExpat.com: If you are British, this site is geared towards you!

ExpatExchange.com: This site is focused on the initial jump, which includes paperwork, finding housing, language resources, and connecting with others.

Expatriates.com: Imagine craigslist, but for expats…

Meetup.com: People from all over the world coordinate, well, meeting up! This is a great place to find people with similar interests or who are simply in the same area.

The Professional American Women of Istanbul (PAWI), www.pawistanbul.com: Bringing together the women of the city, this organization is a great way to stay connected on and off line.

The International Women of Istanbul (IWI), http://www.iwi-tr.org/: This non-profit, social organization brings together international women of all ages and cultures.

Theater

The Square Peg Theatre Group is an expat community theater group located in Tarlabaşı that hosts play rehearsals, theater workshops, writing workshops, small exhibitions, poetry readings, movie nights, open mic nights, Art After Dark, and small staged theatrical shows. Brought to life by donations and volunteers, the theater is growing in presence by enthusiastic participation and no lack of talent. Contact the space at thespaceistanbul@gmail.com, and visit its website,squarepegistanbul.com for more information and pictures as well as to meet its founders and leading participants.

Nightlife

While conceivably everywhere in Istanbul will cater to expats, the following bars, pubs, and clubs as well as restaurants are notorious for their worldly patrons.

Ritim: Ritim is a 4-floor bar, restaurant, and club that offers a taste of music and company from around the world.İstiklal Caddesi, Nevizade MevkiiBalıkPazarı No:20, Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 249 0252

Romeo & Juliet: Expats are no stranger to this outdoor/indoor bar/club that provides opportunity to dance, chill or listen to live bands.Evliya Çelebi Mah. Refik Saydam Cad. No.15A - 17A, Asmalımescit; P: (0212) 243 6565

Grand Hotel de Londres: For an afternoon drink amidst an exquisite design reminiscent of the 1900s, the Grand Hotel de Londres oftentimes finds one in company of other native English speakers.Meşrutiyet Caddesi. No: 53, Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 2450670

Lokal: AnItalian restaurant that turns into a lively and crowded bar/club afterhours, Lokal is a go-to expat destination. Tünel Meydanı No.186/A, Tünel; P: (0212) 245 40 28

Leb-i-Derya: Panoramic views of the Bosphorus & parts of the Old City and delicious cocktails makes Leb-i-Derya a regular spot for expats and tourists. Be warned though: the view is very romantic, and you’ll find that most tables are reserved for two. Kumbaracı Yokuşu No. 57/6, Tünel; P: (0212) 293 49 89

Balkon: Jazz and bossa nova lovers head here during the day, while at night it’s all about funky house and the oldies.Asmalımescit Mah. Sehbender Sok. No. 5 Kat: 6, Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 293 2052

Riddim: In a city where a club devoted to R&B and hip hop is rare, it is no wonder Riddim attracts a steady American clientele.SıraselvilerCaddesi No: 69, Taksim; P: (0212) 251 2723

Annual International Events

For a few occasions each year, Istanbul is the center of global attention. In a country fraught with up and coming artists of its own, its no wonder Istanbul attracts the attention of some of the world’s greatest artists, actors, singers and designers as well as contributes its own talent to the mix. These events put Istanbul on the map, bringing expats closer to an international context.

Istanbul International Film Festival, film.iksv.org/en: This event is held in March-April each year.

Istanbul International Theater Festival, tiyatro.iksv.org/en: This event is held in May-June, attracting more than 20,000 visitors per year.

Istanbul International Music Festival, muzik.iksv.org/en: This event is held in June-July and features ballet, opera, and classical music performances.

Istanbul International Jazz Festival, jazz.iksv.org/en: For more than 20 years, this early-July event attracts high-profile jazz performers from around the world.

Istanbul Fashion Week, ifw.com.tr: Taking place annually in February and September, Istanbul Fashion Week showcases more than 20 Istanbul designers and attracts international attention.

Istanbul Design Biennial, tasarimbienali.iksv.org/en: The first Istanbul Design Biennial will take center stage between 13 October – 12 December 2012, marking the beginning of many design biennials to come.

Istanbul Biennial, 12b.iksv.org/en: Assembling contemporary art from around the world for the public to view, the Istanbul Biennial centers around a theme that inspires discussion.

Contemporary Istanbul, contemporaryistanbul.com: Contemporary Istanbul brings together numerous contemporary art galleries from all over the world, with exhibitions, publications, initiatives, and other art-related presentations on display.

Network, Network, Network

The name of the game is to keep your ears and eyes open, your friendships growing, and your affiliation with Istanbul’s various social groups alive. The city will continue to present opportunities to be creative, to have a crazy night out with other internationals and Turks alike, as well as to forge professional relationships through social networking.

Top 7 Turkish Staple Foods

Tue, 10 Jan 2012 17:58:00 +0200

For a first-time visitor to Istanbul, this magnificent city may seem chaotic - not just because of the traffic and the crowds but also because of all the great options it offers from historical sites to cuisine. Whether you’re a first-timer or not, if all the delicious food options seem overbearing, just start with our list of Top 7 Turkish Staple Foods. They are sure to exceed your expectations.

Baklava

The most famous of Turkish desserts, baklava is made of sweet flaky filo pastry layered with nuts and soaked in syrup. Baklava comes in a variety of fillings, such as pistachio, chocolate, chestnut, andkaymak(clotted cream). The best place to enjoy this Turkish delight is at Güllüoğlu in the Egyptian Bazaar. Mısır Çarşısı No. 88, Yeni Cami Arkası, Eminönü; (0212) 528 51 81

Börek

This is a crispy filo pastry usually filled with beyaz peynir (feta cheese), spinach, or minced meat. When hot and fresh, it is utterly unbeatable and a favorite on the hot meze section of any menu. Look out particularly for sigara (cigarette) böreği, which is long and thin, made with cheese and parsley, and shaped like a cigarette (hence the name).It is best enjoyed at Meşhur Sarıyer Börekçisi. Yeni Mahalle Caddesi No.50, Sarıyer; P:(0212) 242 15 39

Etli Yaprak Sarma

In this Turkish classic, vine leaves are stuffed with minced meat and herbs, covered with yogurt, and served hot. Best enjoyed at Matbah. Caferiye Sokak No. 6, Sultanahmet; (0212) 514 61 51

Grilled Fish

Istanbul has a huge influx of fresh fish thanks to its proximity to the sea. Typical grilled fish, served at the fish restaurants that line the waterfront on either side of the Bosphorus, are whitebait, red mullet, lemon sole, sea bass, bream, and whatever else has been caught that day. The fish is usually served with freshly sliced tomatoes, lettuce, and a wedge of lemon. For the most flavorful and fresh fish, go with what’s in season. Click here to see our Top 7 Seafood Restaurants.

İskender Kebap

Named after Alexander the Great, this dish is made of thin cuts of roasted lamb spread over buttery pita bread, which is then topped with a savory tomato sauce, a drizzle of butter, and a dollop of yogurt. Best enjoyed at Hacıbey. Teşvikiye Caddesi No. 156/B, Teşvikiye; (0212) 231 71 34

Köfte

Köfterefers to small, grilled meatballs seasoned with spices and onions and bursting with flavor. The most commonly servedköfteisızgara, which is grilled and is a relatively simple version. The İzmir variety is served as a stew with potatoes in a tomato sauce. Peynirli literally means with cheese in Turkish; the added component of melted cheese turnsköfteinto a wonderful comfort food option. İnegöl is a county southeast of Bursa, and is famous for its singularly delicious variety ofköfte, slightly fattier than most other types. Izgara köfte is best enjoyed at Ulus 29. Adnan Saygun Caddesi Ulus Parkı Içi; (0212) 358 29 29

Mantı

Sometimes called Turkish ravioli, mantı are tiny dumplings stuffed with meat, topped with yogurt, garlic, tomato sauce, melted butter, and red pepper powder. Whether boiled, steamed, or fried, they are always delicious and best enjoyed at Aşkana. Metehan Sokak, Türkel Apartmanı, No. 1, Ulus; (0212) 268 74 42

Top 7 Seafood Restaurants

Fri, 06 Jan 2012 17:50:00 +0200

Seasoned travelers know that there is much more to Turkish cuisine than meat. And if you’ve been in Istanbul at least once, you know that the city is bursting with great seafood restaurants offering some of the freshest fish and seafood selections you’ve had in a very long time. The challenge? Deciding where to go. Well, just look through our TOP 7 Seafood Restaurants in Istanbul, and you’re good to go.

Bebek Balıkçı: Bebek Balıkçı is a classic, upscale fish restaurant with a formal setting and a fantastic view over the water. The menu includes cold and hot appetizers (such as eggplant salad, parsley salad, smoked salmon, salted bonito, calamari, shrimp stew), and seasonal fish. Cevdet Paşa Caddesi No. 26A, Bebek; P: (0212) 263 34 47

Balıkçı Kahraman: Unlike most seafood restaurants, Balıkçı Kahraman does not have a waterside location but the quality of the food and the service more than compensate for the lack of sea views. Especially famous for its deliciouskalkan tandır(turbot tandoori), Balıkçı Kahraman is a plain yet charming fish restaurant decorated with fisherman’s nets, hanging turbots, photos of celebrity clients and their thank-you notes. Their tomato salad, arugula salad, creamy turbot liver, calamari, and warm breads are raved due to their freshness. Even though some argue that the prices are not modest, especially considering the location and the lack of sea views, many argue that the turbot is worth the splurge and the trip. İskele Caddesi No. 15, Rumeli Kavağı; P: (0212) 242 64 47

Balıkçı Sabahattin: Balıkçı Sabahattin is a family-run restaurant housed in a wonderfully restored Ottoman mansion, nestled behind Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque on a quiet side street. A delicious range of cold and warm starters, salads, and fish are available, to be rounded off with light desserts and drinks. Keep in mind that the menu leans more towards seafood than fish. Seyt Hasankuyu Sokak No. 1, Sultanahmet; P: (0212) 458 18 24

Rumelihisarı İskeleRestaurant: With a unique location that juts out over the Bosphorus by the Rumeli Fortress, Rumelihisarı İskele Restaurant is an excellent option for a classic seafood meal by the Bosphorus. Be sure to book ahead to get a table on the terrace, and don’t forget to finish off your meal with a delectable chocolate soufflé. Yahya Kemal Caddesi No. 1, Rumelihisari; P: (0212) 263 29 97

Kıyı: Kıyı has long been considered one of the top locations for seafood in the city. It serves an excellent selection of seafood-based appetizers and delicious fresh fish. It has a cozy interior with paintings by local artists on the walls and an outside terrace, which is particularly pleasant in summer. Great food, excellent service, and a warm atmosphere on the waterfront – an all-round winner. Haydar Aliyev Caddesi No. 186, Tarabya; P: (0212) 262 00 02

Çengelköy İskele Restaurant: With a unique location, jutting out over the Bosphorus by the Rumeli Fortress, great fish and seafood, and an unfussy, smart interior, Çengelköy İskele Restaurant is one of the best choices for a fish meal in Istanbul. The menu includes the usual suspects, mostly with a twist: instead of regular dolma (usually known as vine leaves stuffed with mince, rice, and herbs), you are offered sardine-filled dolma, and the fried calamari is served with soy sauce. The dessert menu is much fuller than average, with choices like dried fig with sauce and banana split alongside the usual warm halva and quince dessert. Çengelköy İskele Restaurant No. 10, Çengelköy; P: (0216) 321 55 06

Sur Balık: Located in one of the historic Ottoman mansions that line the seaside, Sur Balık specializes in fresh seafood and original dishes. Here you can enjoy classic Turkish seafood and meze classics, such as tender salted bonito served with fresh red onion slices and seasonal salad, as well as a number of unusual items that you won’t likely find anywhere else, such as sea bass in fresh pesto sauce. Bebek Arnavutköy Caddesi No. 52, Arnavutköy; P: (0212) 257 27 43

Top 7 Must-see sights in Istanbul

Thu, 29 Dec 2011 17:12:00 +0200

Basilica Cistern

The Basilica Cistern (also known as the Yerebatan Sarnıcı or Sunken Cistern) is a huge underground reservoir with hundreds of columns, built by the 6^th-century emperor Justinian. During the Byzantine Empire, the Cistern held water brought all the way from the Belgrade Forest outside Istanbul; it later fell into disuse for hundreds of years, before being rediscovered in the 16^th century. The bases of two of the columns feature distinctive bas-relief sculptures in the shape of Gorgon heads. You can see fish swimming around in the water in this eery and atmospheric space. The entrance to the Cistern is on Yerebatan Caddesi, within a short distance of Hagia Sophia. Yerebatan Sarnıcı;Yerebatan Caddesi 13, Sultanahmet; P: (0212) 522 12 59

Blue Mosque

The early 17^th-century Sultan Ahmet Camii is known to foreigners as the Blue Mosque on account of the more than 20,000 blue-white-red İznik tiles that adorn its interior. Its large dome is supported by four thick columns known as “elephants’ feet.” The mosque’s six minarets (a rarity in Turkey as elsewhere) are an integral part of the Istanbul skyline, and can be seen from many parts of the city. The mosque grounds include other historical buildings such as a medrese (religious school) as well as the tomb of the mosque’s patron, Sultan Ahmet I, who died at the young age of 27. To get here, simply take the tram to the Sultanahmet / Blue Mosque stop. Sultanahmet Camii;At Meydanı (Hippodrome), Sultanahmet

Bosphorus by Boat

The Bosphorus is the famous salt-water strait separating the European and Asian sides of Istanbul, and varies in width from less than a mile to over two miles. The strait connects the Black Sea to the Sea of Marmara and so is an important waterway for international shipping; it’s also used by the ferries that cross from one side of the city to the other. You can take a Bosphorus tour all the way up to Anadolu Kavağı, at the entrance to the Black Sea – a great way to see the numerous yalıs (waterside mansions) that line both sides of the strait. See www.plantours.com for information on private boat tours or www.sehirhatlari.com.tr for municipal ferry information.

Dolmabahçe Palace

This over-the-top, opulent palace was commissioned by Sultan Abdülmecid I and designed by architect Garabet Balyan and his son Nigoğos (Nigoğayos) Balyan. It was completed in 1856 and was the residence of most of the last Ottoman sultans. The design of Dolmabahçe blends elements from Baroque, Rococo, Neoclassical, and traditional Ottoman styles; inside, there is an extraordinary crystal staircase in the shape of a double horseshoe. Unlike Topkapı, Dolmabahçe Palace can only be visited on guided tours. Buses and dolmuşes go here from Taksim; alternatively, it is a short walk from Beşiktaş or Kabataş. Dolmabahçe Sarayı;Dolmabahçe Caddesi, Beşiktaş; P: (0212) 236 90 00

Grand Bazaar

The Grand Bazaar is one of the largest and oldest covered markets in the world, and – with thousands of stores in its labyrinth of covered arcades – is a shopper’s paradise. All manner of goods can be found here; don’t show too much interest in the item you want to buy, and don’t accept the first price that’s quoted to you. There are numerous entrances to the Bazaar, but the ones you’re likely to use are the Nuruosmaniye Gate and the Beyazıt Gate. Get off the tram either at the Çemberlitaş stop (for the Nuruosmaniye Gate) or the the Beyazıt / Kapalıçarşı stop (for the Beyazıt Gate). Kapalı Çarşı; Beyazıt; P: (0212) 519 1248

Hagia Sophia

This gigantic structure was completed in 537 AD under the Byzantine emperor Justinian, and for nearly a thousand years was the largest church in the world. Converted into a mosque by the Ottomans after the Conquest of Istanbul, it has been a museum since 1935. With its huge dome (unsupported by pillars), its lavish gold mosaics, and the atmosphere of mystery that pervades its vast interior, Hagia Sophia is an absolute must-see for any visitor to Istanbul.Get offthe tramat the Sultanahmet / Blue Mosque stop.Aya Sofya Müzesi;Aya Sofya Meydanı; P: (0212) 522 17 50

Topkapı Palace

Topkapı Palace was the residence of the Ottoman sultans from the 15^th to the 19^th century. Unlike the European palaces you may be used to (e.g. Versailles), Topkapı consists of a series of smaller, freestanding structures spread out over four courtyards; nonetheless, everything about it is opulent and luxurious. The view from the terrace in the Fourth Courtyard is one of the best in the city. Be sure to pay a visit to the Harem for an up-close look at the living quarters of the Sultan’s concubines. The entrance to Topkapı is inside Gülhane Park; just take the tram to the Gülhane stop. Topkapı Sarayı;Sultanahmet; P: (0212) 512 04 80

Turkish Islam: An Exceptional Story

Sun, 04 Dec 2011 19:37:00 +0200

Compared to Arabs, Turks were latecomers to the Muslim faith. The former were politically and intellectually more advanced until the 13th century, when the Arabs’ brilliant civilization was nearly destroyed by one of the most devastating conquests ever, the Mongol invasion. The formation of new global trade routes from the Middle East and the Levant to the oceans initiated a process that would steadily impoverish the Arab world, which owed much of its wealth to trade. The long-term result was the stagnation of the Arab peoples.

Meanwhile, leadership of the Islamic community was passing to the Turks, who created powerful states under the successive Seljuk and Ottoman dynasties. The Ottoman state extended its borders towards both the west and the east, and, in the 16th and much of the 17th centuries, acted as the world’s foremost superpower.

The political power of the Turks and their continual interaction with the western world gave them an important insight: They faced the rise of modernity. The Ottoman elite had to rule an empire, make practical decisions, adopt new technologies, and reform existing structures, all of which allowed them to understand and cope with secular realities. Sociologist Şerif Mardin defines the consequent praxis as “Ottoman secularity”, and notes that Ottomans started to discover “Western ways” more than two centuries before the founding of the Turkish Republic.

The 18th-century discovery of Europe by Ottoman bureaucrats resulted in the famous “Imperial Gülhane Decree of 1839”, also known as the Tanzimat Edict, which introduced the ideas of supremacy of law and modern citizenship to the empire. In a second substantive reform edict, in 1856, the dhimmi (“protected”) status of Jews and Christians was abolished, and they gained equal citizenship rights.

Later in the 19th century, the Ottoman Empire accepted a constitution that guaranteed equal rights for citizens, and opened an elected parliament in which all peoples of the empire were represented. Muslim thinkers such as Namık Kemal made Islamic arguments in favor of liberal democracy, and Islamic feminists began arguing for equal rights for women.

This much-forgotten Ottoman modernization ended with the demise of the empire in the First World War. From its ruins, what we now call the Middle East arose with a doomed legacy: almost all post-Ottoman states were colonized by European powers, a phenomenon that would soon breed anti-colonialism and anti-Westernism throughout the entire region. These sentiments also brought about the end of what the great historian of the Middle East, Albert Hourani, has called the “liberal age” of the Arab world: basically, the Arabic counterpart of Ottoman modernization.

But Turkey was never colonized. As an ever-independent nation, it continued its modernization process while not facing any backlash from its pious Muslim citizens.

During much of the 20th century, the number one threat for Turkey’s pious Muslims was “godless communism”, and the free world was perceived as a valuable ally against that hated threat. Probably the most influential Islamic thinker in Turkey in the last hundred years, Said Nursi, repeatedly called for an alliance between Christianity and Islam against communism and its underlying materialist philosophy.

Turkish Islam has also been free of anti-Semitism. The Ottoman Empire welcomed the Jews that were expelled from Spain in 1492, and ever since, Jews have lived peacefully in Turkish lands. The Arab-Israeli conflict, although it has generated sympathy among Turks for the plight of the Palestinians, never created widespread hatred of Jews.

Despite all this, it is true that Turkey has had its own radical Islamist movements, especially since the early 1980s. But they have not been homegrown. Arab, Pakistani, and Iranian ideologues of radical Islam, such as Sayyid Qutb, Sayyid Abul-Ala Mawdudi, and Ali Shariati, inspired a generation of Turkish Islamists who deeemed the traditional praxis of their ethnic-religious community too pacifist. The political Islamism that would carry Necmettin Erbakan’s Refah (“Welfare”) party to power in 1996 was also of foreign origin: It was modeled on the Egyptian Muslim Brotherhood and exploited the radicalism of the aforementioned Islamist youth. But in the late 1990s, this movement lost steam. Its more liberal faction gave birth to the Justice and Development Party (AKP), which has been in power since November 2002 and has proved itself one of the most reformist governments in Turkish history.

Today, too, Turkey’s Islamic heritage is not an obstacle to its ongoing modernization and democratization. On the contrary, it actually sometimes helps these processes, as when advocates of pluralism refer to the Ottoman past in order to criticize the narrow nationalist views that deny the rights of minorities.

That is also why Turkey is often viewed as an inspiration to those in the Arab world who wish to build their own democratic nations. The recent wave of revolutions against Arab dictators, i.e. “the Arab Spring”, has been positively influenced by Turkey’s growing soft power in the region, as it allows democratically minded Muslims to point to a government that exemplifies their dreams. Turkish Prime Minister Tayyip Erdoğan further stressed this role in his recent trips to Egypt, Libya, and Tunisia, where he supported democratization and even spoke in favor of a secular state. A secular state which “stays an equal distance from all religious groups, including Muslim, Christian, Jewish, and atheist people,” is the best political model, Erdoğan said, and that is what Muslims should strive for.

To be sure, Turkey needs to work more within its own borders to consolidate and advance its democracy. But it is already a success story in its region. And this success did not come in spite of its religion, as some have assumed. On the contrary, Turkish Islam has contributed to Turkey’s democracy.

Mustafa Akyol is a Turkish journalist, and the author of the recently released Islam Without Extremes: A Muslim Case for Liberty (W.W. Norton)

Modern History - Şakirin Mosque

Tue, 29 Nov 2011 20:43:00 +0200

With nearly 3,000 mosques, Istanbul has more mosques than any other city in the world. And no matter where you go in the city, from the historical quarters to the posh downtown shopping and business districts or the extravagant and wealthy suburbs, you will hear the call to prayer cutting through the daily traffic noise and punctuating the pace of life. Although the most famous mosques are concentrated in the historic areas of the city and are pieces of history themselves (600 of the city’s mosques date back to the Ottoman period), the erection of beautiful and divine new mosques in Istanbul continues to make history.

On the other side of Istanbul, located between a busy street and the city’s largest cemetery, is one of the city’s newest and most talked about mosques. Completed in 2009, the Şakirin Mosque was built in memory of Ibrahim and Semiha Şakir by their children. The mosque’s name is obviously a reflection of the family name but it also has the literal meaning in Arabic of “those who are thankful (to God).” What makes this mosque unlike any other in the country is that the interior design team was led by a woman – Zeynep Fadıllıoğlu – who also happens to be the Şakirs’ grand-niece.

Fadıllıoğlu was already internationally renowned before this project for her interior design work in homes, hotels, shops, nightclubs, and restaurants, but this was her first time working on a religious structure. She consulted art historians and theologians throughout the project, and the result is a blend of influences from past and present, East and West. With the help of her team of designers and artists, she has created a truly remarkable contemporary space for worship.

The first impression you have upon entering the mosque is one of light and open space and elegance. Even the women’s area, which is usually a small closed-off area in traditional mosques, is a spacious balcony separated from the rest of the space only by criss-crossing rails to allow the women at prayer a view of the stunning chandelier. This was an important feature for Fadıllıoğlu, who said she had women in mind when designing the mosque. The large asymmetrical chandelier is covered in small suspended glass globes shaped like drops of water. The design references a prayer that Allah’s light should fall on worshippers like rain. The rings of the chandelier also have the 99 names of God written on them. The large windows on three sides of the prayer hall allow sunlight to filter in and are inscribed with gold designs that make them look like pages from the Qur’an. The gracefully curving minbar is made of cream-colored acrylic and is covered with an elegant design of leaves and carnations that represents the universe and looks like calligraphy from a distance. The prominent mihrab is a vibrant turquoise and gold, and was inspired, like the wrought iron grills on the windows, by historical Selçuk patterns. Even the pale, hand-knotted camel-hair carpet is alluring in its simplicity.

The outside of the mosque is no less innovative. Its sleek, metallic form and dark grey stones complement and contrast with the light and space inside. Architect Hüsrev Tayla, who worked on the massive Kocatepe Mosque in Ankara, designed a single dome of aluminum composite flanked by two narrow minarets. In the courtyard is a stylish fountain by British designer William Pye, which consists of a metal sphere that reflects the mosque from every angle and is said to represent the universe.

The neighborhood of Zeynep Kamil in Üsküdar, where this mosque is located, is outside of the usual tourist areas, but it is not difficult to find and is worth the effort. This mosque is unique and beautiful, and in a part of the city that many people don’t see. Istanbul has a glorious past, but it is not just a piece of history. It is a modern, dynamic, changing city and this mosque is evidence of the wonders that are still to come here. It is only appropriate, then, that the plaque at the entrance to the mosque notes that it is dedicated to Ibrahim and Semiha Şakir and to “their beloved Istanbul.” Şakirin Mosque;Nuhkuyusu Caddesi No.2 Karacaahmet Mezarlık Girişi, Üsküdar

How to Get There

This mosque is located directly across the street from the Zeynep Kamil Hastanesi bus stop on one of the main roads that run from Üsküdar to Kadıköy. Take the 12A bus from either direction and you will reach it easily. Alternatively, it's a fairly short taxi ride from either Üsküdar or Kadıköy.

Neighborhood Profile: Karaköy

Thu, 24 Nov 2011 10:39:00 +0200

Karaköy is one of Istanbul’s most historical areas, a part of town that was once at the heart of the city’s economy. Yet despite its historical importance, today this area is relatively overlooked, with trendier Galata grabbing the spotlight. Nevertheless, Karaköy remains a fascinating area in terms of both what it once was and what it is now becoming.

Karaköy's History

Karaköy used to be considered a part of the greater Galata neighborhood, but the area was renamed in the 19th century for the Karaite Jews who had settled there. During the Byzantine period, Galata was a Genoese trading colony that was quasi-independent and walled off from the rest of the city. At one point, this port had one of the busiest harbors in all of Europe. The area very much had its own distinct character. In fact, according to historical records and illustrations, Karaköy looked much like any other Italian city in the 15th century. Echoes of this past are still visible in the architecture today.

During the Ottoman period, the area became the city’s financial district, the center for banking and commerce, where all the major banks and insurance companies were located. Banking in the Ottoman Empire was strongly associated with minorities, and over the years, the area became home to a large non-Muslim population, with many Italians, Greeks, Armenians, and Jews moving in. Overcrowding eventually pushed many of these communities up to the Beyoğlu district, but this cosmopolitan period in Karaköy’s history is still evident from the numerous churches and synagogues in the area, though very few of these are still functional. In fact, Karaköy is even home to Istanbul’s Jewish Museum, located in a restored synagogue.

A relic of this commercial past is Bankalar Caddesi, a street leading up towards Galata Tower. Bankalar Caddesi was one of the most important avenues in 19th century Istanbul. Sometimes referred to as the Wall Street of the Ottomans, this used to be called Voyvoda Street, and was where all of the major banks and insurance companies had their head offices. Although the banks have now mostly left and have been replaced by lighting shops, the street is still lined with impressive and imposing buildings, many with beautiful architectural details such as ornate tile work. What used to be the headquarters for the Ottoman bank now houses the Ottoman Banking Museum, the city’s first modern bank where even harem eunuchs held bank accounts. Today, you can explore the original vaults and examine loan contracts between the bank and the Ottoman government, while the exhibits also offer fascinating insights into the social, economic, and political environment of the late Ottoman period.

It is on this street that you can also find the art nouveau-style Kamondo staircase, well-known because of the famous 1964 photo by Henri Cartier-Bresson. This staircase was commissioned in 1869 by Avram Kamondo, the wealthy head of a local Jewish banking family. While the architect remains unknown, we do know that the stairs were built to provide a shortcut to reach the Galata tower, making it easier for Kamondo to get to work. Supposedly, the staircase was built in its unique curvaceous style to make it safer for the Kamondo children – if they slipped and took a tumble, they would not have a long way to fall.

Modern Karaköy

The area’s recent revival can be traced back to the opening of the Istanbul Modern Museum in 2004. Housed in a converted customs warehouse, this is Istanbul’s answer to the Tate Modern. A welcome addition to the city’s art scene, the museum has an enormous 8,000 square meters of exhibition space, with an excellent selection of modern Turkish art in its permanent collection. Through its temporary exhibits and its hosting the Biennial, the Istanbul Modern has been integral in introducing international artists to local audiences. The museum also has a great restaurant and café, with suitably minimal décor and stunning views across to the Anatolian side and the Old Town. The area surrounding the museum has now become a popular student and tourist hangout, with many cheap and cheerful nargile cafés.

Today Karaköy is still strongly linked with the sea, as this is where mammoth cruise ships dock when visiting the city, as well as ferries from Kadıköy and Haydarpaşa. And as is the case with many ports throughout the world, Karaköy is also still known for a more unsavory type of commerce: a very large brothel is located in this area. You will also find a plethora of diving shops and mechanical, electrical, and plumbing parts suppliers. Yet despite this slightly gritty underbelly and working-class feel, you can still see a fair number of tourists from the cruise ships walking around, and the area is home to a number of architecturally interesting buildings.

One such building is Karaköy Palace, located in Karaköy Square. Built in the 1910s and designed by Levantine architect Guilio Mongeri, who also designed the St. Antoine Catholic church in Beyoğlu, this building resembles an Italian palazzo, but with strong Byzantine and Ottoman influences. Other noteworthy buildings are located on the street behind the harbor. One in particular stands out, with décor that is so ornate it resembles a wedding cake. Its actual function, rather incongruously, is a police station.

Karaköy has also started attracting local foodies who are drawn to the area for a handful of good-quality restaurants and high-quality food shops. Housed in a beautiful tiled building that used to be the Estonian embassy, the family-run Karaköy Lokantası was established in 2000, and has long been a favorite with in-the-know Istanbulites. Karaköy Lokantası is known for offering consistently delicious Turkish cuisine at reasonable prices. Among local businessmen, this is one of the most popular lunch spots in the neighborhood, while in the evening the atmosphere is more like a meyhane (Turkish tavern).

Not to be confused with Karaköy Lokantası is the Tarihi Karaköy Balıkçısı, located just across the street. Despite its rather unassuming façade, once you climb up to the top floor you will be greeted with a phenomenal view of the Old City, just across the Golden Horn. Open since 1923, this restaurant is deservedly famous for its hearty fish soup, considered by many to be the best in the city. Just be careful not to fill up on soup and meze, for the fish mains are not to be missed, particularly the sea bass cooked in paper, which is perfectly steamed and succulently flavored.

Another upscale option is Karaköyüm restaurant, which also has a spectacular view of the Golden Horn and Galata Tower. This restaurant serves traditional home cooking as well as a few international options, with a beautiful bar and elegant décor. Particularly popular with foreigners is Akın Balık, which serves up good fish alongside incredible views. Set right by the base of the Galata Bridge, Akın Balık is a casual eatery that is ideal for watching the sun set on the Golden Horn. Dining on narrow tables covered with paper instead of tablecloths, you’ll appreciate the simplicity of enjoying an ice-cold beer or a glass of rakı along with mezes, fresh fish, and the company of your good friends.

Julius Meinl/Karabatak Karaköy is the latest venue to have opened in the up-and-coming Karaköy district. This cool and funky café features retro-style décor and an atmosphere that makes you want to spend many hours here chatting away with friends over a cup of coffee. Karabatak features a menu with typical café fare, including salads, sandwiches, soup, pasta dishes, and desserts. But the real draw is the coffee. Julius Meinl is an Austrian-based coffee roaster and coffee house that is known for the quality of its coffee products. An excellent cup of coffee in a cool yet cozy atmosphere – what more could a coffee lover ask for?

More of a newcomer to the area, Lokanta Maya is already very popular thanks to its concise and creative menu, which features Turkish cuisine at its newest and freshest. Maya specializes in fish that is grilled to perfection as well as regional mezes. The restaurant’s accomplished chef, Didem Şenol, has traveled extensively around the country’s Aegean coast, and has in-depth knowledge of the region’s products. While the décor may be a little too minimal for some people’s tastes, it helps keep the focus just where it ought to be – on the food.

For meat lovers there is no better place than Namlı Gurme, which has two branches in Karaköy. One is a restaurant and the other is more for food shopping, although it also offers a casual dining option. Particularly popular for their brunch buffet, Namlı produces a wide range of meat products, including sausages and cured meats, as well as their own cheeses, olives, and breads.

If you’re craving something sweet, then head to Karaköy Güllüoğlu, considered by many to make the best baklava in the city. Güllüoğlu still uses its original 1871 recipe, although now there are many varieties available, including chocolate-covered baklava, and şöbiyet, a flaky, triangle-shaped pastry stuffed with pistachios and cream. The charming Bej Kahve is a sign that the area is slowly changing, though still far from being gentrified. Located in a recently restored pasaj, or shopping arcade that would not look out of place in any European city, Bej Kahve is connected to Kağıthane,or the House of Paper, a delightfully quirky shop selling just about anything made of paper, including notebooks, stationary, calendars, bookmarks, and even coasters and other decorative household objects. They also sell tote bags, jewelry, and accessories with Istanbul designs, all by Turkish designers.

Compared to nearby areas such as Galata and Cihangir, Karaköy is a bit of a strange place – you can very much feel that this was a business and administrative area rather than a residential district, as it does not quite have a neighborhood feel. But it is just this difference that has helped Karaköy retain its own character. Walking along the streets, you can catch a glimpse of a building or street view that looks completely European, straight out of a slightly run-down Italian city. But with your next step, the walls of a crumbling old hamam or hardware store instantly transport you back into a very Turkish scene. Not as trendy or developed as its more fashionable neighbors, Karaköy offers a rare glimpse into Istanbul’s commercial and cultural past.

Originally published in The Guide Istanbul September/October 2011 issue

Hürrem Sultan

Thu, 17 Nov 2011 18:09:00 +0200

Ottoman sultans were renowned for their patronage of art and architecture, one rarely equaled by the rulers of other great empires. It was the duty and prerogative of a sultan to commission monumental architectural complexes that incorporated religious, charitable, and educational institutions. These complexes, known as külliyes, were supported by endowments funded by agricultural, industrial, and commercial revenues. The best architects and artisans of the empire were employed in the creation of imperial külliyes, which not only served the public but also displayed the sultans’ immense wealth and power.

The most splendid structures were built during the reign of Sultan Süleyman the Magnificent (reigned 1520-66) whose empire extended from Tabriz to Vienna. During this period, which is known as the golden age of Ottoman art and architecture, the Ottomans controlled the crucial link between three continents (Asia, Europe, and Africa) as well as the surrounding seas.

It was not only Süleyman who commissioned and endowed large architectural complexes but also two outstanding ladies in his family: his daughter Mihrimah Sultan, and his wife Hürrem Sultan. Hürrem was an exceptional woman in Ottoman history. She is thought to have been of Russian, Ukrainian or Polish origin, captured by marauders and sold as a slave to the Ottoman court in the Crimea some time in the late 1510s, when Süleyman was serving there as governor.

As was customary with the Sultan’s concubines, Hürrem was taught proper court etiquette, educated, and given a Turkish name, Hürrem, meaning “the smiling and endearing one.” Her intelligence, composure, and personality captivated Süleyman, and she soon became his confidante and one and only love. In contrast to Ottoman imperial practice, Süleyman married Hürrem, becoming the only sultan (with the exception of a 19th-century ruler) to officially take a wife. His devotion for Hürrem continued after her death, as observed in the poems he wrote bemoaning her absence and his loneliness.

Hürrem’s power and influence over the sultan intrigued both the Ottomans and the Europeans. The Europeans called her Roxelane (the Russian) or La Rosa (the red one), presumably referring to the color of her hair, which must have been red or auburn, as suggested by one of Süleyman’s poems in which he calls her “my orange.”

As a Haseki (a title given to a royal wife, literally “belonging to the ruler”), Hürrem accumulated immense wealth, and used these funds to build and support architectural complexes in Istanbul and Jerusalem in addition to those in Ankara, Edirne and Mecca. In 1539, she commissioned the newly appointed royal architect Sinan to design and build a group of buildings that included a mosque, a medrese (university), and a school. The complex called the Haseki Külliyesiwas constructed in a district in Istanbul known as Avrat Pazarı, which came to be called Haseki, the name it bears today. In the early 1550s, a hospital for women and a soup kitchen were added to the complex; the mosque was enlarged in the early 17th century.

The Haseki Külliyesi is unique on several accounts. First, it is Sinan’s first commission as royal architect, a product of his early years before he became world-famous for numerous structures – ranging from mosques to bridges – built throughout the empire. Second, the Haseki Külliyesi was commissioned by the wife of a sultan, funded by her own money, and supported by an endowment set up in perpetuity. Finally, it included a (still-functioning) hospital for women. The vakfiye (deed of endowment) established by Hürrem Sultan for her Haseki Külliyesi is a meticulous document stipulating the salaries and duties of the staff, the types of meals to be served, and the source of income for staff expenses and building maintenance. It is a model for such documents set up for charitable institutions, even today.

Hürrem’s second endowment is even more unusual. Known as the Haseki Hürrem Sultan Hamamı (Bathhouse), the two sides of this hamam (the men’s section and the women’s section) mirror each other. Built across the street from the famous 6th-century Byzantine church of Aya Sofya (converted into a mosque after the conquest of Istanbul in 1453 and now a museum), the building is unique among Istanbul hamams. Each half has two domed units, one large and one small, creating a harmonious silhouette. One of the few still-intact historical hamams in Istanbul, it was used as an exhibition gallery until recently. Today, it serves a luxurious Turkish bath.

Hürrem was a self-made woman who excelled in her role as the supportive and assertive wife of the most powerful man of the age. Her personality can be best studied in the letters she wrote to her husband when he was away on military campaigns. (Süleyman undertook more than a dozen campaigns in both Eastern Europe and western Asia during his lifetime and was often on the road for months at a time). In her letters, Hürrem relates the activities of the court and her family, and even sends Süleyman shopping lists. In one instance, she requests “something called cologne” which she heard was quite popular, referring to perfume from the German city of Cologne which was the rage in Europe at the time. As the wife of the sultan, she felt confident and assured enough to send a letter to the new king of Poland (who was Süleyman’s ally), congratulating him on his accession.

Hürrem was the first woman to take up residence in Topkapı Palace, which had originally been designated as the administrative and educational headquarters of the empire. The women of the royal family lived in what was then called the Old Palace (now the site of Istanbul University) and did not reside in Topkapı Palace until the late 16th century. Hürrem complained that her children missed their father since he was away so often, and since, when he was in Istanbul, he worked late in his offices at Topkapı. Then, one day, a mysterious fire broke out in her suites at the Old Palace, forcing her to relocate to Topkapı Palace. Hürrem had succeeded in remaining close to her beloved husband.

In return, Süleyman fully supported Hürrem in every way, his love and devotion for her lasting until his death. The sultan’s most beautifully executed tuğras (imperial monograms), decorated with exquisite illuminations, appear on the fermans (edicts) drawn up to sponsor Hürrem’s endowments, setting aside revenues from farming and commercial activities to provide funds for these charitable foundations. The sultan’s poems, written under the pseudonym Muhibbi (meaning the “lover” or “dear friend”) further attest to his love for and devotion to this remarkable slave girl who captured the heart of the most powerful man in the world.

Hürrem died in 1558. During her nearly fifty-year marriage to Süleyman, she gave birth to five sons and one daughter. Three of her sons died during her lifetime; the remaining two fought for the throne, and one survived to become Sultan Selim II (reigned 1566-74). The most illustrious of her children was her daughter Mihrimah Sultan, who inherited her mother’s high intelligence, shrewd personality, and strong interest in patronage.

Hürrem is entombed in a domed octagonal structure erected in the cemetery behind the Süleymaniye Complex in Istanbul. This complex, designed by Sinan, encompasses over a dozen buildings surrounding the Süleymaniye Mosque. Next to her tomb is an impressive mausoleum built for Süleyman, who died during a campaign in Hungary in 1566. Even in death, Hürrem stayed by Süleyman’s side.

Originally published in The Guide Istanbul Sept/Oct 2008. Updated on 6 January 2012.

The Revival of Samatya

Tue, 01 Nov 2011 18:54:00 +0200

The neighborhood of Samatya, located just a few train stops away from the central tourist areas of Sultanahmet and Eminönü is one of Istanbul’s forgotten treasures. But that is about to change. The Tourist Research Association (TURAD), a leading tourism body in Turkey, has been heading a project designed to put this authentic Istanbul neighborhood back on the list of popular city sites, polishing up the hidden gem and putting it on display for the world to see and hoping to attract both Turkish and foreign visitors.

The first village at this site was established over 3000 years ago and the area has been continually inhabited since then, making it older than the city of Istanbul itself. The name Samatya comes from the Greek word “Psamathion,” which means sandy. The area gets this name because of the sandy beaches that once lined its shore. Three millennia later the beaches are gone but some of the sand remains, hidden in the mortar of the Theodosian Walls, also known as The Walls of Constantinople, which enclosed Samatya within the protection of the great city. Now, like the sand in the crumbling walls, the history, diversity, and distinctiveness of Samatya are coming to the surface again.

Churches, Mosques, and Monasteries

Under Emperor Theodosius I (379-395 AD) Samatya became an important center for churches and monasteries. In the 5^th century the monastery of St John of Studius was built. This complex was home to over 1000 monks at its peak and during the 9^th century it was the most powerful and influential monastery in the Byzantine Empire. Shortly after celebrating its millennium, the church was converted to a mosque by İlyas Bey, the Sultan’s Stable Master (or imrahor in Turkish). The mosque came to be known as the İmrahor Mosque and was in use until 1894 when it was destroyed by an earthquake. Today, the remaining walls of the Church of St John make it the oldest surviving church structure in the city.

Another church that underwent a change in faith is St Andrew of Krisei, which was built on the foundations of an earlier church from the 6^th century. In 1491, St Andrew of Krisei was converted to a mosque by Koca Mustafa Paşa, an Ottoman Grand Vizier. Koca Mustafa Paşa Mosque is still in use and it is a popular shrine. The tombs of the dervish leader Sümbül Efendi and his daughter Rahine are both here and attract crowds of people who come to pray to them for help. Rahine is especially known to provide help for unmarried women who are looking for husbands.

Surp Kevork Armenian Church (known as Sulu Manastır in Turkish) is probably the area’s most important church. Originally built by Byzantine Emperor Romanos III around 1030 AD, it later became a Greek orthodox church, and was later handed over to the Armenian community by the Sultan. This church was the seat of the Armenian Patriarchy of Istanbul from 1461 to 1644 (when the patriarchy moved to Kumkapı). The church is still in use today, although much of the original structure had to be rebuilt after a disastrous fire in 1782, which destroyed much of Samatya.

After the Ottomans took control of the city, they began to add mosques to this area, either converting churches or building new structures. The Empire’s most famous architect Sinan is responsible for both the Abdi Çelebi Mosque and Ramazan Efendi Mosque. The latter is notable not only for the beautiful İznik faience that adorns it, but also because it was the last mosque that Sinan built. The Agha Public Bath in Samatya is also one of Sinan’s constructions.

The Armenian District

Beginning in 1458, Fatih Sultan Mehmet began settling Armenians in Samatya. These immigrants were brought primarily from Karaman as part of the Sultan’s policy of bringing master craftsmen, artisans, and scholars to his new capital. He also brought the Armenian religious leader Episcopos Havagim from Bursa, giving him Surp Kevork Church from which to lead his followers. (Later sultans continued this trend and also settled non-Muslims in this area. So, while it may sometimes be referred to as the Armenian District, other Christians and Jews also played a significant role in the neighborhood’s history.)

One of the most famous Armenian craftsmen of the area was named Avedis. Legend has it that he was an alchemist who, while looking for the formula for gold, discovered a metal alloy that had very unique sound qualities. (Some stories also refer to him as being an apprentice bell maker when he discovered the formula, which is probably more likely.) He discovered that this new alloy could also be shaped easily without breaking. He created huge cymbals that produced amazing sounds from the alloy. His fame spread and soon the Sultan heard about him and called him to the palace. He wanted Avedis to create cymbals to be used by his military band as weapons of sound, emulating the clash of swords and shields, and announcing the power and strength of the Ottoman army. As a reward for his fine work, the Sultan gave him the surname Zilciyan, which means bell maker, and permission to leave the palace and start his own business. In 1623, the Zilciyan Cymbal Company was formed in Samatya.

Over the centuries the secret formula was handed down from father to son. Their handmade cymbals became popular all over the world and have been used by everyone from European orchestras to American rock stars. In the 1930s the foundry was moved out of Samatya after residents complained about the noise produced by the constant hammering. In 1977, the company finally closed down. However, some friends of the Zilciyan family who knew the secret formula decided that they wanted to carry on the art and tradition of cymbal making and opened their own companies. Today Istanbul is the only city in the world where handmade cymbals are still produced.

Samatya Today

From the 1950s on, Samatya began to change, as did much of Istanbul, with the huge influx of immigrants from Anatolia. The neighborhood began filling with ethnic Turkish Muslims and when tensions finally boiled over across the city in September of 1955, many of the former non-Muslim residents left the area for good. Samatya ceased to be a place of much interest to anyone and became just another working class Turkish neighborhood with a few good restaurants that would draw in the occasional outsider.

Then in 1998 a new Turkish soap opera premiered: İkinci Bahar (which translates as Second Spring). It was centered on a couple who worked in a restaurant in Samatya. The location was chosen because of its nostalgic look. The immense popularity of the show started to ignite interest in the area and the restaurant where the show was shot (Ali Haydar’ın Yeri) is still a popular attraction for locals.

In the last decade some major changes have come to Samatya. To honor its history as a fishing village, a Fish Museum and a Fish Festival were launched. Popular tour agencies have started offering walking tours of the “Armenian District.” Most recently TURAD’s Samatya Development Project has encouraged several new ventures. This year ‘Music in Samatya: Cymbals and Jazz’ held its first events with 3 days of world-class concerts. A guide book for the area has been published as part of the promotional campaign. Some physical projects have also been undertaken, including repairing and repainting many of the traditional old wooden houses around the main square, and there are plans to begin archaeological excavations of the Byzantine-era Damatrys Palace.

Rüstem Paşa Mosque

Mon, 24 Oct 2011 18:04:00 +0300

The 19^thcentury French poet and writer Alphonse de Lamartine wrote, “If one had but a single glance to give the world, one should gaze at Istanbul.” It’s not hard to imagine he was gazing at the iconic skyline of Seraglio Point and the Golden Horn, with its breathtaking panorama of domes and minarets, when that thought came to his mind.

Set amidst some of the most impressive mosques in Eminönü, it would be easy to overlook this little mosque with its lone minaret, but that would be a mistake. Find the narrow entrance on Hasırcılar Caddesi and wind your way up the steps to the surprisingly spacious terrace courtyard. Like many mosques of its time, the Rüstem Paşa Mosque was not built at street level. It was built above the vaulted shops and market stalls that supported its upkeep. Some things haven’t changed much since it was completed in 1563, and the mosque is still surrounded by shops and salesmen plying their trade in Hasırcılar Çarşısı (the Basket Weavers’ Market) although the range of products available today is a bit more varied. Despite its location in the heart of this bustling community, once you step into the mosque you will be amazed at the beautiful and tranquil atmosphere inside.

Rüstem Paşa, for whom the mosque is named, was a grand vizier and prime minister in the court of Süleyman the Magnificent (Sultan Süleyman I). He was also married to Süleyman’s only daughter, Mihrimah, who oversaw the construction of the mosque as a memorial after her husband’s death. Theirs was a marriage that very nearly didn’t happen. Rüstem Paşa’s competitors for the hand of Mihrimah spread rumors that he had leprosy, which would have made him a most unsuitable groom. However, when the palace doctors examined him they found him to be infested with lice. Medical wisdom at the time held that lice never touched lepers. Thus Rüstem and Mihrimah were able to marry, and he gained the nickname “The Louse of Fortune” (Kehle-i Ikbal) after the Turkish saying that for a lucky man, even a louse can bring him more good fortune. And Rüstem Paşa was a fortunate man indeed; he became one of the wealthiest and most powerful men in the empire, and his name lives on with this stunning mosque.

Mihrimah hired the empire’s greatest architect to build her husband’s memorial. Mimar Sinan (Sinan the Architect) had been appointed chief architect of Istanbul by Süleyman the Magnificent in 1538. His most famous work, the Süleymaniye Mosque, which houses the tombs of both Süleyman and Mihrimah, sits on the hill just above the lesser known Rüstem Paşa Mosque. The Süleymaniye Mosque, which is the largest mosque in the city, is a testament to Mimar Sinan’s ability to build glorious structures on a monumental scale. Rüstem Paşa Mosque, by contrast, demonstrates Sinan’s genius and artistry for elevating a small edifice to sublime stature.

Rüstem Paşa Mosque has a floor plan that consists of an octagon within a rectangle, with a large center dome supported by four smaller semi-domes and thick octagonal columns. When you enter the mosque the first thing you notice is the vivid array of colors. The walls, the columns, the mihrab, and some of the exterior facades are all covered in Iznik tiles produced at the height of Iznik’s popularity. The tiles of this period are characterized by a startlingly white background, against which the vibrant colors are brilliantly offset. Red was the most difficult color to achieve and therefore the most highly sought after. Rüstem Paşa Mosque is resplendent with this rare color, which is echoed in the red carpet covering the floor. The tile patterns are geometric and floral. Throughout the mosque, stylized tulips, roses, and carnations appear in recurring patterns. In fact, more than forty different variations of the tulip motif can be found within this mosque.

Other important features in the mosque are the mihraband the minbar. The mihrab, a semi-circular niche that shows the direction of Mecca, is an example of classic Ottoman architecture, whose upper part consists of characteristic decorative stalactites surrounded by the refined Izniktile designs. The minbaris the staircase and raised platform at the front of the mosque from which sermons are given. In Rüstem Paşa, it is intricately carved marble set against tiles decorated with the tree of life and covered with a pointed roof. Unfortunately, it is not possible to climb to the upper galleries to see the tiles there, which include patterns and motifs not seen anywhere else in the mosque.

Despite its small size, this is one of the most impressive Ottoman mosques in Istanbul, and one that most of the big crowds of tourists bypass. It is worth the little bit of extra energy required to find this slightly-hidden treasure, especially since you will be able to explore Mimar Sinan’s showpiece in peace and at leisure.

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Rüstem Paşa Mosque; Hasırcılar Çarşısı; Eminönü

How to Get There

From the main square in Eminönü, walk up the street that runs along the right side ofSpice Bazaar. Follow your nose up this sidestreet to the delicious smell of roasting coffee coming fromKurukahveci Mehmet Efendi. Turn right and follow the street (Hasırcılar Caddesi) for about two minutes. The entrance to the mosque is on the right in an unassuming stone doorway with a very simple plaque between two shops.

Turkish Specialities

Fri, 07 Oct 2011 16:41:00 +0300

Lahmacun (Turkish pizza)

Lahmacun—the Turkish equivalent of pizza—is a round, thin dough that is heavy on meat (minced in this case) as might be expected from Turkish cuisine. Usually wrapped with lettuce, parsley, and sprinkled with lemon, lahmacun doesn’t feature cheese at all. Nonetheless, lahmacun is delicious, especially when it’s piping hot, its base thin and crisp.

Kebap

Obviously the most famous Turkish specialty, kebap (or kebab) is eaten everywhere by everyone, either as street food or in a fancy restaurant. Well-prepared kebabs, made with the right amount of spices and served with side dishes, are hard to beat. Here are some of the common types:

Şiş

Şiş kebap is made of simple chunks of lamb, marinated and then chargrilled (along with vegetables—mostly onions, tomatoes, and peppers). The meat is grilled on skewers or şiş in Turkish, giving this kebab its name. You can also ask for çöp şiş, which are made of extra small pieces of lamb.

Döner

Döner is roasted lamb either served on a plate with rice and french fries or wrapped with tomatoes, french fries, and hot pickled peppers in a very thin bread known as dürüm (similar to tortilla). Döner can be found at all kebab restaurants, while döner dürüm is sold at numerous büfes (Turkish fast-food restaurants) around the city.

Iskender Kebap

Named after Alexander the Great, Iskender Kebab is a dish made of thin cuts of roasted lamb spread on top of buttery pide (pita bread), topped with savory tomato sauce and melted butter, and served with a dollop of yogurt.

Beyti Kebap

Beyti is made from ground lamb or beef, skewered, grilled, wrapped in flat bread, and served with yoghurt and tomato sauce.

Adana

Adana is the specialty from the southern city of Adana. The spicy, minced meat is first chargrilled on a skewer, then served on a bed of pide (pita bread) or lavash bread with tomatoes, bell peppers, and bulgur pilavı (pilaf of bulgur). Those who can’t handle spicy food should steer clear from this one.

Urfa

From the southeastern city of Urfa, Urfa kebab is similar to Adana kebab, although much less spicier and a bit thicker.

Köfte

Köfte refers to meatballs that are usually prepared with mild spices, onion, and parsley.

Some distinct varieties of köfte:

The most commonly served köfte is izgara, which is grilled and is a relatively simple version.

The Izmir variety is served as a stew with potatoes in a tomato sauce.

Peynirliliterally means with cheese in Turkish; the added component of melted cheese turns köfte into a wonderful comfort food option.

Inegölis a county southeast of Bursa, and is famous for its singularly delicious variety of köfte, slightly fattier than most other types and hence tastier.

Mantı

Sometimes referred to as Turkish Ravioli or Turkish dumplings, mantı is a meat mixture wrapped in small parcels of dough, which is boiled, steamed, and sometimes fried. Regardless of the cooking style, mantı is always delicious, topped with yogurt, garlic, tomato sauce, melted butter, and red pepper powder.

Beyaz Peynir (Feta cheese)

Literally translated as white cheese in Turkish, this is the Turkish version of feta and has the same cool, creamy texture and salty taste. It is generally eaten at breakfast, sometimes topped with jam on bread, and with olives, cucumber, and tomatoes. Also a great filling for sandwiches and börek.

Börek

This is a crispy filo pastry usually filled with beyaz peynir (fetta cheese), spinach, or minced meat. When hot and fresh, it is utterly unbeatable and a favorite on the hot meze section of any menu. Look out particularly for sigara (cigarette)böreği, which is long and thin, made with cheese and parsley, and shaped like a cigarette (hence the name).

Dolma (Stuffed Vine Leaves)

These come in many shapes and forms, hot or cold. When hot they are a proper meal, filled with minced meat, rice, spices, parsley, and occasionally sweetened with a few currants. When cold, they can be found on the cold meze section of the menu. There is also a variant of dolma (which is the umbrella term for this type of dishes) made with cabbage leaves instead of vine leaves, and equally delicious.

Olive Oil Dishes

These dishes are cooked in olive oil with onion and tomato, and are usually served chilled. Typical examples are eggplant (sliced or cubed), green beans, fava (broad beans, usually mashed), okra, enginar (artichoke), and kabak (courgette).

Pilav

Pilav can refer to plain rice, although numerous delicious versions of rice are found in Turkey. A common method is to fry a small amount of şehriye (vermicelli) until brown, then add basmati rice, water, salt, butter and cook for around 20 minutes. The result is moist and delicious, tastier than plain rice due to the butter and vermicelli. It is sometimes served with chickpeas (nohutlu) especially when sold as street food, or with chicken (called tavuklu pilav), mostly at restaurants offering home-cooked meals or at any esnaf lokantası (tradesmen restaurants).

Grilled Fish

Istanbul has a huge influx of fresh fish thanks to its proximity to the sea. Walking along the Galata Bridge, you will see scores of fishermen catching 7 or 8 little yellow-tailed blue fish on each line. At the northern end of the bridge is a market where buyers and sellers haggle furiously and restaurants get their catches for the day. Typical grilled fish served at the fish restaurants that line the waterfront on either side of the Bosphorus are whitebait, red mullet, lemon sole, sea bass, bream, and whatever else has been caught that day. The fish is usually served with fresh sliced tomatoes, lettuce, and a wedge of lemon.

Meze

Either in a fish restaurant or a kebab restaurant, you can skip the main dishes and give your full attention to the meze tray. The range of hot and cold meze includes haydari (thick yoghurt with garlic and dill), köpoğlu (chopped fried eggplant mixed with yogurt), lakerda (salted bonito), gavurdağı (salad with tomato, mint, pomegranate syrup, green peppers, and chopped walnuts), tulum peyniri (goat cheese) with pide (pita bread), közlenmiş patlıcan (chargrilled eggplant), börülce salatası (samphire salad), tarama (dip made of fish roe mixed with bread crumbs, lemon juice, vinegar, and olive oil), ciğer (fried liver), humus (better with pastırma—cured beef), fava (broad beans), pickles (generally a mixture of cabbage, gherkin, cucumber in vinegar marinated with chili).

Getting To and From the Airport

Fri, 07 Oct 2011 14:14:00 +0300

ISTANBUL ATATÜRK AIRPORT

The city’s major international airport is Istanbul Atatürk Havalimanı (Atatürk Airport), which is located in Yeşilköy (approximately 20 km/12 miles from Taksim Square) on the European side of Istanbul.

Transportation to and from the airport is possible with taxis, buses, and metro.

Taxis

You can’t miss the bright orange taxis as they line up on the street at the exit of the airport. As of 18 December 2010, the taxi meter starts with 2.5 TL and adds 1.4 TL per kilometer thereafter. You must add bridge crossing and toll fees to the meter (currently, it costs 3.6 TL for bridge crossing). The approximate cost to go to Taksim Square is 25 TL.

Please note that there is no extra charge for your luggage and you do not have to tip the driver. You only have to pay the price shown on the meter. However, if the driver has helped you with your luggage, you might want to give him a small tip—we recommend a maximum of 5 TL (the tip does not have to be proportional with the total on the meter).

HAVAŞ Buses

The private Havaş bus service offers rings between the airport and central locations in Istanbul.

European Side:Havaş buses to and from Taksim Square operate between 1am-4am and leave every 30 minutes. The price for the Taksim-Atatürk Airport and Atatürk Airport-Taksim routes is 10 TL.

Asian Side:Havaş buses to and from Kozyatağı operate between 1am-4am every hour for 17 TL. The Havaş buses also operate to and from Bakırköy, mainly to cater to passengers coming from and going to Bostancı. The buses to Bakırköy leave from the airport 20 minutes before the sea bus from Bostancı arrives in Bakırköy. The charge for this route is 5TL.

IETT (Public Buses)

Bus line 96T frequently circles between the Taksim Square and Istanbul Atatürk Airport, with stops in Bakırköy, Zeytinburnu, Fatih, and Beyoğlu.

The last stop on this route will drop you off at Taksim Square.

Metro & Tram

The M1 metro line operates between Aksaray and the airport with stops including Aksaray, Topkapı, Bayrampaşa, Esenler Otogarı, Merter, Zeytinburnu, Bahçelievler, Ataköy, and Yenibosna.

In order to get to Sultanahmet, get off at the Zeytinburnu stop on the M1 line and transfer to the T1 line. Get off at the Sultanahmet stop on the T1 line, which operates between Zeytinburnu and Kabataş with stops in Topkapı, Beyazıt, Çemberlitaş, Sultanahmet, Eminönü, Tophane, and more.

In order to get to Taksim, after you change from the M1 line to the T1 line, stay on the T1 line until the last stop (Kabataş) and change there to the F1 line (the funicular), which will take you straight to Taksim Square.

In order to get to Levent and surrounds, change to the M2 line after your get off the funicular (F1 line) in Taksim.

SABİHA GÖKÇEN AIRPORT

Istanbul’s second international airport is Sabiha Gökçen located on the Asian side in Pendik.

Transportation to and from the Sabiha Gökçen Airport (SAW) is possible with taxis and buses.

Taxis

Taxis are available outside the airport. A trip to Taksim would cost approximately 50 TL.

HAVAŞ Buses

European Side:Buses to Taksim Square operate between 12am-4am and buses from Taksim Square operate between 1am-4am. The buses leave every 30 minutes and the price for this route is 13 TL.

Asian Side:Buses from Kozyatağı operate between 1am-4am and buses to Kozyatağı operate between 12am-4am. The buses leave every hour and cost 10 TL.

IETT (Public Buses), Metro, and Tram

There are 4 bus lines frequently running between the airport and central parts of the city.

European Side:Line E3 will take you to and from the 4.Levent metro station with stops in Pendik, Sultanbeyli, Sancaktepe, Çekmeköy, Ümraniye, Beykoz, and Beşiktaş.

To get to Taksim Square, take the E3 bus all the way to the 4. Levent metro station. Get on the M2 line and get off at Taksim Square.

To get to Sultanahmet, change to the F1 line (the funicular) at Taksim Square and get off at Kabataş. There, transfer to the T1 line and get off at the Sultanahmet stop.

Asian side:Line E9 will take you to Kadıköy with stops in Kartal and Maltepe. Line E10 will take you to Kadıköy with stops in Pendik, Kartal, Maltepe, and Üsküdar. Line 16S will take you to Kadıköy Metrobus station with stops in Pendik, Kartal, and Maltepe.

DUTY FREE LIMITS

Limits for arrival (per person) are: 2 cartons of cigarettes or 100 items of cigarillos or 50 items of cigars or 250 grams of shredded tobacco or 250 grams of pipe tobacco. Only 1 liter is permitted for alcoholic beverages that contain 20\\% alcohol (whiskey, rakı, etc.) and 2 liters are permitted for beverages with less than 20\\% alcohol (wine, champagne, etc.). The maximum number of perfume bottles you can bring is 5. The limit for tea, instant coffee, coffee, candies, and chocolate is 1 kg each.

Limits for departure (per person) are: 6 cartons of cigarettes or 300 items of cigarillos or 150 items of cigars or 750 grams of shredded tobacco or 750 grams of pipe tobacco. Three liters of alcoholic beverages containing more than 20\\% alcohol and 6 liters of those with less than 20\\% alcohol are permitted. No more than 15 bottles of perfume can be taken out. Tea, instant coffee, coffee, candies, and chocolate are allowed up to 3 kg each.

CUSTOMS

There is no limit on the amount of foreign currency or Turkish lira that you can bring into Turkey. The maximum amount you can have with you when leaving Turkey is US$5,000 or its TL equivalent.

Practical Info

Fri, 07 Oct 2011 11:17:00 +0300

Weather

Istanbul has a temperate climate with cold and dry winters and hot and humid summers. Between December and March, Istanbul is cold, rainy, windy, and mostly grey with temperatures averaging 4°C (39°F). Snow showers are common, usually occurring at least once a year. During summer, temperatures average 25-30°C (78-88°F), and most days are sunny with blue skies. Rainfall is rare, and humidity makes it feel much hotter, especially in August. The best weather is in spring and fall; from April to mid-June, days are temperate and evenings are cool. From mid-September to November, the city is colder but still pleasant, although a bit rainy and windy.

Drugs

Illegal possession, use, or sale of all types of drugs is strictly forbidden in Turkey.

Smoking

Smoking is prohibited at all enclosed public areas in Turkey, including bars, cafés, and restaurants. The smoke ban also applies to all forms of public transportation. If you get caught smoking at a smoke-free zone, you will be charged a fine.

Drinking

The rules and regulations surrounding alcohol consumption have recently changed. The legal age for buying alcohol is 18; however, those under the age of 24 can’t attend events, organizations, or parties that are sponsored by alcoholic beverage firms.

Public Toilets

Public toilets are found all over Istanbul with entrances marked as “Bayan WC” for women and “Bay WC” for men. It’s a good idea to carry a pack of tissues as toilet rolls are often out. You will often come across ‘a la turca’ facilities (comprising of a hole on the floor), especially in touristy areas. However, hotels, restaurants, bars, and shopping malls all have Western-style (a la franga) facilities.

Tipping

-Taxis:You don’t have to tip taxi drivers. The only time a tip would be appropriate is if you have luggage and the driver has assisted you with them. The maximum amount recommended is 5 TL.

-Restaurants:Some restaurants include tip in the check. When the tip is not included, a 10\\\% tip is considered the norm.

-Hotels:Recommended tips for bellboys is 5-10 TL, depending on the hotel that you’re staying at and the amount of luggage you have.

Time

Turkey is 2 hours ahead of GMT. The 24-hour clock is used. Day-light savings run from the last Sunday in March to the last Sunday in October.

Voltage

Turkey uses 220 V, European-style rounded tip two-prong plugs. Check in advance whether you’ll need an adaptor and/or transformer.

Opening Hours

Museums are generally open between 9am-5pm. Private businesses are usually open from 9am-6pm, government offices from 8am-5pm. Most shops are open from 9am to 7-8pm, and they are closed on Sundays. Shopping malls are usually open from 10am-10pm.

Home & Personal services

Istanbul is a very practical place to deal with repairs and cleaning services for many household needs. There are many craftsmen with specialized skill sets that offer high-quality services, often at prices that are far lower than what you would normally get abroad. Every neighborhood will have at least one electrician, plumber, locksmith, tailor, cobbler, watch repair shop and dry cleaner, and more specialized services are available throughout the city. Check our Home & Personal Services listings to find services near you.

Laundromats & Dry Cleaners

There are many laundromats (çamaşırhane) and dry cleaners (kuru temizleme) spread around Istanbul. Some Laundromats offer fixed rates, while others charge based on weight. Check our Home & Personal Services listings for a list of dry cleaners and laundromats.

Mail Services

Turkish post offices are spread around the city and can be recognized by their yellow and blue PTT signs.

For visitors without a permanent address, the post office offers ‘poste restante’ services. In order to collect your mail, you’ll need to have your passport with you and pay a small fee. The main post offices in Istanbul are located in Sirkeci and Taksim. Visit http://www.ptt.gov.tr/en/to find a post office near you.

Phone Services

Most payphones in Istanbul operate with a phone card which can be purchased at any Post Office (PTT) or from street vendors (who charge a commission). Some payphones also accept tokens (jeton), although these are increasingly rare.

You will find selling points for the three major GSM operators (Turkcell, Vodafone, and Avea) at almost every central location and shopping mall. The options of pre-paid and post-paid SIM cards are available in all the operators, which allow you to make and receive international calls, send text messages, and also offer 3G and internet services. Phone credit for pre-paid SIM cards can be purchased online as well as from official GSM operator shops and most kiosks.

It is possible to set a fixed phone line from Türk Telekom once you have a residence permit. Visiting the nearest post office branch with your passport, bank details, and proof of address will be enough to get a new phone line. If you are renting or buying property with an existing phone line, check for any previous unpaid bills.

Istanbul Area Codes

Phone lines in Istanbul have two different area codes for the European side and the Asian side, though they only need to be dialed if the call is made from the opposite side. Remember to dial 0212 for your calls to the European side when you are on the Asian side and 0216 for the Asian side when you are on the European side.

International Dialing Code

The international dialing code to call Turkey from abroad is (+90) followed by the area code and the number.When calling abroad from Turkey, you must first dial the international code (00) followed by the country code.

Useful Numbers

Telephone Directory/Enquiries: 11833

Telephone Repair: 121

Tourist info line (for Turkey): 170

Women Visitors

Istanbul is a paradox; in some respects, it is as laid back and cosmopolitan as any major European city, in others, still marred by lechery towards and disapproval of Western women (although this is largely confined to specific pockets of the city). The areas surrounding Beyoğlu, Bebek, Nişantaşı, Etiler, and Ortaköy are very Western and women dress pretty much as they please without any undue attention drawn to them. Sadly, in Sultanahmet, where most of the tourist attractions are located, Western tourists often become targets, being hassled to buy the shopkeepers’ wares and, if a woman, probably stared at and possibly verbally-harassed. Don’t wear short skirts, shorts, or skimpy tops in Sultanahmet (particularly as you will most likely visit mosques, where you might not be allowed in if you are inappropriately dressed, and not wearing a head scarf), and certainly dress modestly, with shoulders covered, in the religious areas of Fatih and Balat, further inland from Sultanahmet. If you do get hassled, ignore it. If it persists, you should try saying “Ayıp” (Shame on you), but do not get drawn into any kind of dialogue. Try to avoid eye contact and walk away. Realistically, you will not encounter anything worse here than you might encounter in other Mediterranean countries—expect something along the lines of the attention you would get in a Southern Italian town. Don’t let it spoil your experience of a wonderful city!

Disabled Access

Istanbul has improved in terms of disabled access recently, but sadly there are certain areas still lacking, and the very nature of Istanbul makes it difficult for wheelchair users with its uneven, cobbled, narrow streets, very steep hills, and huge volumes of pedestrian crowds and road traffic. Most hotels, apart from the really high-end ones, do not have provisions for wheelchair users. However, the majority of the public transport system has been improved—most Metro stations now have lifts, the trams and light railways are wheelchair-accessible, and there are two bus lines which are designed for wheelchair users (the 222 operating the Topkapı-Emirgan route and the 28T operating the Pendik-Kadıköy route). In addition to this, 450 “low-riding” Mercedes buses have been introduced to the bus system, which facilitate wheelchair use. Ferries built post-2008 also accommodate wheelchairs.

Turkish National Holidays

During national holidays, banks and governmental offices are closed. Restaurants and shops do not close; in fact, they tend to be more crowded than usual.

January 1: New Year’s Day

April 23: National Sovereignty and Children’s Day (Ulusal Egemenlik ve Çocuk Bayramı)

May 1: Labor Day (Işçi Bayramı)

May 19: Atatürk Commemoration and Youth & Sports Day (Atatürk’ü Anma Gençlik ve Spor Bayramı)

August 30: Victory Day (Zafer Bayramı)

October 29: Republic Day (Cumhuriyet Bayramı)

Turkish Religious Holidays

The dates of religious holidays change every year as they are based on the Islamic calendar. Most banks will be closed during the religious holidays but you may find some branches open on the second or third day. The government offices are closed all through the holidays.

The dates for 2011 are as follows:

August 30-September 1: Ramadan Feast (Ramazan Bayramı)

November 6-9: Sacrifice Feast (Kurban Bayramı)

The Grand Bazaar

Wed, 21 Sep 2011 18:06:00 +0300

As often with tourist sites in Istanbul, there is a slight discrepancy between the English and Turkish names of the Grand Bazaar, known locally as the Kapalı Çarşı or Covered Market. The Turkish word pazar (also the word for Sunday) generally refers to a once- or twice-a-week open-air market, of the kind that is still common in Istanbul. Çarşı, on the other hand, means a marketplace (not necessarily roofed) with stores in fixed locations. The word, borrowed from Persian, originally meant “four ways” or “four streets,” referring to the streets that run through such marketplaces at right angles.

The Grand Baazar is very high on most tourists’ itineraries, and with good reason. This enormous site is the largest still-existing covered market in the world, spanning an area of tens of thousands of square meters. While the layout of the Bazaar is relatively geometric (in comparison to, say, the famously labyrinthine medina of Fez), the size of the place and the profusion of goods for sale still make it easy to lose one’s bearings. The Bazaar can boast a total of 64 streets and no fewer than 22 entrances, the most commonly used ones being the Beyazıt Kapısı and the Nuruosmaniye Kapısı.

The original historical core of the Bazaar is the İç Bedesten, completed by Mehmet II (or Mehmet the Conqueror) in 1461. A bedesten (the word is a Persian borrowing) refers to an indoor arcade with shops; the İç Bedesten or Interior Bedesten has thus become a building-within-a-building in the Grand Bazaar. This area, the oldest section of the entire Bazaar, is also known as the Cevahir Bedesteni or Jewel Bedesten, as jewels, gold, and other precious items were, and still are, sold within its well-guarded precincts. The second oldest part of the bazaar is the Sandal Bedesteni further to the Northeast, also called the Yeni (New) Bedesten since it was built later than the İç Bedesten. The name of the Sandal Bedesteni is a bit deceptive. It was originally a place to buy not boats (the meaning of sandal in present-day Turkish) but rather a type of luxury cloth known as sandal, made in Bursa – a center of textile production then as now. Though sandal can no longer be found there, the Sandal Bedesteni still continues to be a venue for buyers and sellers of rugs, carpets, and kilims, as well as other textiles.

The original bedesten has been known by no fewer than five different names throughout its history: İç Bedesten (the Inner Bedesten), Bedesten-i-Atık (another term for the Inner Bedesten in Ottoman Turkish), Büyük Bedesten (the Big Bedesten), Eski Bedesten (the Old Bedesten), and Cevahir Bedesteni (the Jewel Bedesten.)

Over the years the Grand Bazaar expanded from this core of two bedestens to become a sprawling roofed complex of thousands of shops, fringed by the tradesmen’s inns/workshops known as hans. According to the Ottoman traveller Evliya Çelebi’s Seyahatname, by the 17th century the Kapalı Çarşı (or the Çarşı-yı-Kebir as it was then known) had already reached its present size, with over 4000 shops, plus nearly 500 stalls known in Turkish as dolap (literally “cupboards”). In addition there were various other amenities for the merchants who worked there: restaurants, a hamam, and a mosque, plus at least ten smaller mescits or prayer rooms. Today, this city-within-a-city contains a police station, a health dispensary, a post office, branches of most major banks, and (last but not least) a tourist information center.

In comparison with street-names in the English-speaking world, those in Turkey are often very picturesque, and the names of the streets in the Grand Bazaar – referring to their original functions – are no exception. Takkeciler Caddesi is literally “Skullcap-makers’ Street”; Aynacılar Sokak was for sellers of mirrors; Halıcılar Caddesi was where carpet-sellers plied their trade; and Keseciler Caddesi was for vendors of the kese, the rough exfoliating cloth used to scrub oneself in a hamam.

The Grand Bazaar has been damaged numerous times in its 500+ year history, both by fires and by the earthquakes with which Turkey is periodically plagued. The earthquake of 1894, approximately 7.0 on the Richter scale, wrought particularly heavy damage to the complex, and its present appearance reflects extensive renovations undertaken after this earthquake. More recently, in 1954 a terrible fire (started by an electrical spark) spread throughout the Bazaar; due to the narrowness of space and the basic firefighting technology of the time, it took 489 firefighters a record 28 days to completely extinguish this fire.

While the Grand Bazaar has not been the commercial center of Istanbul for quite some time, it is still one of the best places to get a taste of life in Ottoman-era Turkey. Unfortunately, much of the quaint merchandise once sold there is no longer available, and (it has to be said) parts of the Bazaar are now given over to cheap mass-produced goods and tourist kitsch. Nonetheless, with a little planning, it is still a good place to shop – and of course to window-shop. For advice on where to buy specific products in the Bazaar, see The Guide’s related article, available here. Exploring the Grand Bazaar is an experience no visitor to Istanbul should pass up.

Küçük Aya Sofya

Mon, 12 Sep 2011 21:31:00 +0300

Directions

To get to Little Hagia Sophia, start from the Arasta Bazaar on the opposite side of the Sultanahmet Mosque from the Hippodrome (i.e. the southwest corner of the mosque.) You'll find yourself at the beginning of a street called Küçük Ayasofya Caddesi. Simply walk westward on this street till you get to Little Hagia Sophia. (If you see a suburban banliyö train whizz by, you’ll know you’re on the right street – the train tracks run within a stone’s throw of the mosque.)

Many a tourist in Istanbul has experienced “mosque-fatigue.” This common but preventablecondition is usually the result of visiting too many mosques in too little time, without first educating oneself about their distinguishing architectural features—the very things that make a visit to a mosque rewarding and stimulating.

The Küçük Aya Sofya Camii, or Little Hagia Sophia Mosque, just west of Cankurtaran, is not the only mosque or ex-mosque in Istanbul to have once been a Christian church. The same is true of the Arap Camii in Karaköy, and of course of the larger and more famous Hagia Sophia itself, now a museum. (The Church of the Chora likewise underwent the same transition from church to mosque to museum.) Nonetheless, the fact that Little Hagia Sophia is still a working mosque makes the visible remnants of its Byzantine heritage all the more striking.

Like the Sokollu Mehmet Paşa Camii around the corner in Kadırga, Little Hagia Sophia is still relatively unknown to foreigners. Lying slightly off the beaten tourist track, in a working-class neighborhood known as Küçük Ayasofya Mahallesi, the mosque reached its nadir in the early-to-mid nineties, when the grounds were in such a poor state that a local newspaper complained about the beer cans and other refuse lying around the courtyard. Since then, extensive restorations have taken place, and Little Hagia Sophia is now open to both worshipers and visitors.

A small sign at the entrance to the mosque grounds tells the story of Little Hagia Sophia – formerly known as the Church of Saints Sergius and Bacchus – in both Turkish and English. According to the sign, in the early 6th century Byzantine Empire the young Justinian (later to become emperor and build the larger Hagia Sophia) was going to be put to death for participating in a revolt against his uncle, the Emperor Justin. (More authoritative scholarly sources identify the emperor in question as Anastasius, Justin’s predecessor.) St. Sergius and St. Bacchus then appeared to the emperor in a dream, urging him to spare Justinian’s life. In gratitude, Justinian built the church, dedicated to the two saints, shortly after becoming emperor himself in 527.

Your first cluethat this was originally a Byzantine church is the material of which it is built. While most Ottoman mosques are built out of stone, Little Hagia Sophia is made of a mixture of brick and mortar in which (as often in Byzantine churches) the long thin bricks seem to serve as dividers for the mortar rather than vice versa. Unlike Hagia Sophia’s circular dome, that of Little Hagia Sophia resembles a shallow inverted soup bowl with a flared rim. Next to the mosque is a low, squat minaret; there is a tomb on the left, plus a small Ottoman-era graveyard running around the rear of the building.

Those who have visited the Sultanahmet Mosque as tourists will find the protocol far more relaxed here – if you come just after the ezan has sounded, simply wait 5-10 minutes on the benches in front, till the small number of worshippers exit.

Once you enter through the domed portico, you’ll also be struck by the simplicity of the interior. Whatever its original state in the 6^th century (which, to judge from the comments of the Byzantine historian Procopius, was apparently as dazzling as the mosaics of the larger Hagia Sophia), the interior surface of Little Hagia Sophia is mostly – save for the designs above the vaults, and around the windows – a plain white. Small circular paintings on the sections of the dome are emblazoned with the names of Allah, Muhammad, and the first caliphs, in standard fashion.

There are two things in particular that make Little Hagia Sophia unique among Istanbul mosques. The first is the seven pairs of beautiful columns both on the main floor and on the gallery (there are also two extra, asymmetrically placed columns on the lower level, and four above.) The shafts of the columns are made of maculated colored marble; the white capitals are even more distinctive, with perfunctory Ionic scrolls beneath elaborately carved floral patterns, from a distance somehow resembling pebbles hollowed out by sea worms or mollusks.

Another, perhaps less obvious, feature is the dedicatory inscription to St. Sergius in Greek running along the entablature of the columns. In contrast with the mosque’s brightly-colored Arabic calligraphy, this low-relief inscription, made of the same white marble as its entablature, would be easy to miss on a cursory visit to Little Hagia Sophia.

The presence of this inscription is, when you think about it, incredible. Four to five times a day, a group of worshipers perform Muslim prayers in Little Hagia Sophia – while above their heads runs a still-legible dedication to a Christian saint.Though it would be too facile to tout this as an example of Turkish religious tolerance, such a juxtaposition could nonetheless serve as a symbol of Anatolian civilization over the past few millennia: a Turco-Islamic overlay above a Hellenic-Christian past.

In front of the mosque there is a courtyard, in the center of which is fountain for ritual ablutions. The courtyard is surrounded by small cells that originally served as dervish lodges, then as a medrese (religious school), and now house artisans and second-hand booksellers. Here you can buy handmade ceramics, as well as exquisite original Ottoman-era illuminated manuscripts.

If you are not operating under severe time constraints, or if you have already seen the major sights of Istanbul and want to visit somewhere off the beaten path, a visit to Little Hagia Sophia is strongly recommended.

Must-do: Fishing in Istanbul

Wed, 07 Sep 2011 22:17:00 +0300

Fishing Responsibly

It’s important to fish responsibly, as commercial fishing is currently depleting Turkey’s stock of this precious natural resource. You should pay attention to the size/age of the fish; by throwing back young, immature fish, you will give them a chance to reproduce before being caught or eaten. Unfortunately, Turkish regulations stipulate minimum lengths that are well below those of mature adult fish. Greenpeace Turkey, through its campaign known as Seninki Kaç Santim (How many centimeters is yours?), provides a handy ruler showing the proper lengths for the following local species: hamsi, tekir (striped red mullet), istavrit, barbunya (red mullet), mezgit (whiting), lüfer (bluefish), levrek (sea bass), palamut (bonito), and kalkan (turbot). You can download a pdf version of this ruler from the campaign’s website (www.kacsantim.org) or pick one up at Greenpeace’s Istanbul office in Asmalımescit.

Take a walk over the Galata Bridge from Eminönü to Karaköy, in fair weather or foul, andyou can’t miss the fishermen standing nearly shoulder-to-shoulder on the bridge’s pedestrian walkway, their fishing rods tied to the rails of the bridges. Here, at the city’s most well-known fishing spot, you will also see educational murals painted by the Istanbul municipality, showing the names and pictures of different local fish. Some of these you may already know from the dinner table: hamsi (anchovy), sardalya (sardine), and istavrit (horse mackerel). It’s likely you’ll also see live samples swimming around in the plastic containers the fishermen use to preserve their catch.

The geography of Istanbul – particularly the differences in temperature and salinity between the Black Sea and the Mediterranean – make the waterways surrounding the city especially abundant in fish. Schools of fish pass through the Bosphorus with great regularity, and those who spend a few hours fishing are unlikely to come back empty-handed.

If you’re tempted to purchase a rod and try your hand at fishing, you’ll be spoiled for choice in terms of places to cast your bait. The Golden Horn – the estuary that runs below the Galata Bridge – has seen a great reduction in pollution over the past few decades, and if you are set on fishing here, then by all means do so. If you’d like a spot with smaller crowds, and possibly cleaner water, there are many stretches of the Bosphorus, Marmara Sea, and Black Sea that are suitable for fishing.

On the Asian side, you could fish on the Marmara Seacoast (just be sure not to impale the rollerbladers in Suadiye or the couples making out in Moda with your hook.) Numerous spots along the Asian side of the Bosphorus are also suitable: the Kuleli Askeri Lisesi in Çengelköy, Kandilli a bit further up the coast, Kanlıca (in Beykoz), or Anadolu Kavağı, at the meeting point of the Bosphorus and the Black Sea. On the European side, you could try Yeniköy, Aşiyan, Arnavutköy, Tarabya, Büyükdere, Rumelihisarı (all on the Bosphorus); or Rumelifeneri, an underrated spot on the Black Sea, with a picturesque old castle, and cows and bulls milling about.

As a stranger (to Turkey, to the neighborhood, and perhaps to fishing), you can expect a mild sort of camaraderie from local fishermen, but don’t think they’ll drop everything (so to speak) and spend all their time helping you. You need to come prepared with your own fishing gear. A good place to buy what you need is Tahtakale, roughly definable as the part of Eminönü behind the Mısır Çarsısı and Rüstempaşa Camii. Similarly, the backstreets of Karaköy on the opposite side of the bridge, around the Yeraltı Cami, teem with shops selling fishing rods, hooks, sinkers...everything you need for an afternoon of fishing. As for bait, if you are fishing on the Galata Bridge you will see itinerant bait-sellers peddling their wares there all day long.

Don’t worry if you don’t catch enough fish to make up a full dinner. Go with a friend or two, take along some things to eat and drink, and enjoy the ambience of your chosen fishing spot – that’s half the fun.

Health and Safety

Thu, 18 Aug 2011 22:12:00 +0300

Drinking Water

Tap water is not used as drinking water; we recommend that you drink bottled water.

Emergencies & Health Services

Istanbul has some world-class hospitals and medical facilities, as well as many excellent doctors who speak English. Check our Emergencies & Health Serviceslistings to find clinics, medical centers, doctors, hospitals, and more.

Following is a list of emergency phone numbers:

Ambulance:112

Air Ambulance:(0212) 592 88 27

Night Ambulance:(0212) 240 39 14

International Hospital Ambulance:(0212) 663 30 00

International SOS Assistance:(0212) 230 96 38

Police:155

Fire:110

Pharmacies

Pharmacies in Turkey are independently owned, with several small pharmacies located in every neighborhood. They are easily recognizable with a large “E” or “Eczane” sign in red and white. Pharmacies take turns staying open on Sundays and throughout the night; therefore, local 24-hour service is always available. The information for the nöbetçi eczane (the pharmacy that is on call on evenings and Sundays) is posted on all local pharmacies’ windows.

Pharmacists in Turkey are qualified to provide certain basic medical services, such as cleaning and bandaging minor wounds, giving injections, measuring blood pressure, and suggesting medication for common ailments.

Many medications that are available by prescription-only in other countries are available over-the-counter in Turkey. Upon request, some larger pharmacies will order medication from abroad. Check our Emergencies & Health Serviceslistings to find a pharmacy near you.

Tourism police

The Tourism Police department is where visitors report passport loss and theft as well as any criminal activity that they have been a victim of. The staff can reportedly speak English, German, French, and Arabic.

Address:Yerebatan Caddesi No. 6, Sultanahmet (they are located between the Hagia Sophia and the Basilica Cistern);Phone: (0212) 527 45 03

Museum Break: Cool Museums To Beat The Summer Heat

Tue, 09 Aug 2011 17:42:00 +0300

In Istanbul the summers are hot and the tourists are plentiful but here are two places you can go to take a break from the crowds and the temperatures while enjoying some of the best sights the city has to offer. Take one of the many boats travelling up the Bosphorus to the village of Beylerbeyi on the Asian shore and experience the same natural breeze and imperial majesty as the sultans did when visiting the summer palace. On the European continent the perfect getaway from all the hustle and bustle of the city’s busiest tourist area is the world-class Istanbul Archaeological Museums, located right in the heart of Sultanahmet.

Istanbul Archaeological Museum

Osman Hamdi Bey was a man with a mission. On June 13, 1891, his vision became reality when the new purpose-built Istanbul Archaeological Museum opened. One hundred and twenty years later, June 13 is still celebrated as Museum Day in Turkey, and Osman Hamdi Bey’s name is still synonymous with Turkish museology and historical preservation.

In the late 19^th century, the Ottoman government, frustrated with Western powers taking Anatolian artifacts out of the empire, established the Imperial Museum Collection. After this, treasures began to be sent to Istanbul from all the Ottoman provinces, but they mostly collected dust, being neither well-organized nor well-exhibited.

In 1881, Osman Hamdi Bey was appointed director of the museum. His appointment was, undoubtedly, the most significant occurrence in the history of Turkish museums. He was already a famous painter, archaeologist, and intellectual. (His most famous painting, “The Tortoise Tamer”, was bought in 2004 for $3.5 million, the largest sum ever paid for a Turkish work of art, and is on permanent display at the Pera Museum.) When he became director, there were only 650 pieces in the museum’s collection, which he quickly began restoring and cataloguing. One of his first acts after becoming director was to fight for an Antiquities Conservation Act that could legally combat the rampant smuggling of cultural treasures to western countries. This act was passed in 1883, and is one of the reasons that the Istanbul Archaeological Museum now has more than 1 million objects in its collection. (Osman Hamdi Bey’s fight to stop smuggling is so legendary that he even appears as a character in The Abyssinian Proofby Jenny White, a recent novel about a turn-of-the-century Istanbul detective tracking an antiquities smuggling ring.)

Osman Hamdi Bey also spent much time traveling around the Ottoman Empire collecting new artifacts. When he heard that a farmer in Sidon (in present-day Lebanon) had unearthed something interesting while ploughing his fields, he went there to conduct the excavations himself. What he found was an underground necropolis of Phrygian kings that included what is undeniably the most famous piece in the museum today: the Alexander Sarcophagus, named after its bas-relief carvings depicting the life and adventures of Alexander the Great and once thought to have been made for Alexander himself. Osman Hamdi Bey was so concerned with the safety of these antiquities while they were being transported to Istanbul that at one point he actually tied himself to the Alexander Sarcophagus as it was being winched aboard a cargo ship!

Upon safe arrival in Istanbul, the Sidon sarcophagi received so much attention and the Sultan was so impressed that he gave orders that a new building be built specifically as a museum to house these treasures. The building’s neoclassical design, by architect Alexander Vallaury, was inspired by the Alexander Sarcophagus and the Sarcophagus of the Weeping Women (also from Sidon), and construction was overseen by Osman Hamdi Bey himself.

Today the Istanbul Archaeological Museum is one of three buildings that make up the Istanbul Archaeological Museum complex, which is located in what was once an outer garden of Topkapi Palace, on the aptly named Osman Hamdi Bey Hill Road.

The beautiful Tiled Kiosk, which was home to the Archaeological Museum’s treasures before 1891, was built in 1472 by Sultan Mehmed. It is one of the oldest examples of Ottoman civil architecture. The Tiled Kiosk Museum has a collection of around 2,000 tiles and ceramics from the Seljuk and Ottoman eras (11^th-20^th century). While these objects may be less famous than those housed in the other two museums, the bright colours and beautiful ornamentation make this museum a work of art in itself and definitely worth a visit.

The Museum of the Ancient Orient houses a rich collection of artifacts from the earliest civilizations of Anatolia, Mesopotamia, Egypt, and the Middle East. All of the artifacts predate the 1^st century AD. Some of the more famous pieces include the Kadesh Peace Treaty between Ramses II of Egypt and Hattusili III of the Hittite Empire from 1258 AD (one of three tablets that comprise the oldest known peace treaty in the world), the glazed tile images from the Ishtar Gate of Babylon, the obelisk of King Adad-nirari III of Assyria, and fragments of the 13^th century sphinx from the Yarkapı Gate at Hattuşaş.

The Istanbul Archaeological Museum is, of course, the biggest and most famous of the three. Near the entrance is a statue of a lion. This is from the Mausoleum of Halicarnassus (one of the seven wonders of the ancient world) and the only piece that remains in Turkey, the rest having been smuggled out by foreign archaeologists. This solitary lion is a reminder of what might have been if not for Osman Hamdi Bey’s passion and perseverance.

The treasures inside the museum are myriad, and a full tour could take several hours. The Alexander Sarcophagus and the other treasures from Sidon should not be missed. Also highly recommended is the first-floor exhibit “Istanbul Through the Ages”, which won a Council of Europe Museum Award in 1993. This informative and well-presented exhibit is still being updated, as the constant construction in Istanbul unearths new treasures almost daily. The construction of a tunnel under the Marmara Sea from Yenikapı has yielded some spectacular maritime finds, which have been added to the display. But no matter which galleries you choose to visit, you will not be disappointed, as the entire building is filled with world-class exhibits.

If you find yourself becoming overwhelmed by the majesty and intensity of so many exquisite sights, then stop by the pleasant little museum café or wander through the courtyard and sit in the shade of an ancient column. Plan to take your time on your trip to the museum, and enjoy a day that you will never forget!

Cool Beylerbeyi

In 1865 Sultan Abdulaziz’s summer palace was completed and opened its doors and guest rooms to some of the most important and influential dignitaries of his time. Today the humble village of Beylerbeyi that surrounds the place by the same name is just as welcoming as it was during the time of the Sultan. Whether you prefer to wander around the palace gardens or the village square, Beylerbeyi will surprise you with its unassuming acceptance and simple charms.

Although Beylerbeyi is easily accessible by land, try to arrive by water as the Sultan’s guests did. The view of the palace from the water as you pass under the bridge is uniquely Istanbul, an alluring transposition of past and present. On the opposite side of the square is an elegant mosque, built in 1778 by Sultan Abdulhamid I in memory of his mother Rabia Sultan, which is also best seen from the water. The central square, adjoining the pier, plays host to most of modern Beylerbeyi’s guests. Like many other Bosphorus villages, Beylerbeyi has a collection of cafes and restaurants and shops selling jewelry and handicrafts mixed among the historic old wooden houses, but Beylerbeyi also has its own distinct character. This is perhaps typified by the two massive street hounds that have made the square their home for as long as anyone cares to remember. The size of small horses they plant themselves in the midst of the action, observing everyone but disturbing no one, rather like the local fishermen and waiters. Nothing happens in the village that goes unnoticed by this menagerie and everyone - rich, poor, local, foreign –is equally welcomed in the square.

Crowded on the weekends, it is quiet during the week when the main action surrounds the fishermen going about their business, laughing and shouting back and forth as they clean their catch and play keep away with the ever present cats.

After enjoying the square a visit to the palace is a must. Less elaborate than the other Bosphorus palaces, Beylerbeyi Palace is still very appealing, perhaps even more so for its uniqueness. The current palace was not the first to be built here. An earlier wooden palace, called the Yellow Palace, burnt down and the site was abandoned in 1851 until Sultan Abdulaziz chose to rebuild. Locals have a legend about how this location was originally chosen. When the Sultan decided to build his summer palace he was determined to have it in the coolest place on the Bosphorus so he devised a special system to locate the perfect spot. He had his servants hang sides of meat from trees at various spots all up and down the strait. Each day the servants were sent out to check on the state of the meat. In the end, the site where the meat took the longest to decay was ‘scientifically’ proven to be the coolest. Anyone who has visited Beylerbeyi in the heat of summer will have noticed that the constant breeze blowing in the square and along the water does indeed have a significant effect on the temperature.

The palace was designed in the French neo-Baroque style with a traditional Ottoman plan by the imperial architects Sarkis and Agop Balyan. It has a rectangular plan with six grand halls and 24 rooms on two floors, containing both a selamlik(official quarter) and haremlik(women’s quarter). Because it was a summer palace there is no heating system. The floors are covered with Egyptian reed mats and Hereke carpets. This provided insulation and protection against dampness. Running water was popular in Ottoman houses, both for the sound and the cooling effect, and Beylerbeyi Palace has a pool in one of its reception halls. Sumptuously decorated, like all Ottoman palaces, French Baccarat crystal chandeliers and oriental vases abound. But this palace also has some unique decorative touches. Sultan Abdulaziz loved ships and the sea. During his reign the Turkish navy rose to be second in the world in both strength and importance. Throughout the palace you will find a strong naval motif in the decorations and paintings.

One of the many royal guests who visited Sultan Abdulaziz at Beylerbeyi Palace was Empress Eugenie of France who received a rather legendary welcome. In 1869 when Empress Eugenie was travelling through Istanbul on her way to the opening of the Suez Canal she stayed in Beylerbeyi Palace. When the Empress dared to enter the palace on the arm of Sultan Abdulaziz the sultan’s mother slapped the Empress in the face for her boldness. But even that shocking welcome couldn’t take away from the beauty of the palace for Empress Eugenie. She so admired the design of the windows in her guest room that she had them copied for her bedroom in the Tuileries Palace in Paris.

Another notable ‘guest’ of the palace was Sultan Abdul Hamid II who lived in captive exile in Beylerbeyi from 1912 until his death in 1918. The Sultan was an accomplished woodworker and spent his last years in Beylerbeyi Palace studying and writing his memoirs as well as making new furniture for the palace, much of which is still on display.

The once luxurious palace gardens are still worth a visit. Once a 160,000 m² forest including a hunting area, a zoo and a terraced garden with flora from all over the world, today only a small part remains and is open to the public. However, what is left is a little oasis of peace and quiet in the city with its own café. There are two oval pools, dozens of statues of animals and a wide variety of plants and flowers, including a small bamboo forest. There is also access to the waterfront through two large sea gates in the garden. Walk right out onto the marble pier and admire the tent-shaped pavilions while taking in the breathtaking view up and down the Bosphorus and enjoying the famous Beylerbeyi breeze.

Despite claims that the palace gets over a thousand visitors a day, Beylerbeyi doesn’t feel like an overcrowded or overpriced tourist trap. This village has not been changed to appeal to the masses with little snapshots of Turkey in suitably souvenir-sized packages. The person sitting next to you in the palace garden having a cup of coffee may just as likely live across the street as halfway around the world. There are no pretentions here. Beylerbeyi invites you to come as you are and, more than likely, you will want to come again.

Traditional Turkish Motifs

Tue, 02 Aug 2011 18:06:00 +0300

In British author A.S. Byatt’s best-selling collection of fables, the title story, The Djinn in the Nightingale’s Eye, takes its inspiration from the Turkish glass known as çeşme bülbül, “nightingale’s eye”. Her storyteller’s erotic genie emerges from a bottle made with this mysterious swirling pattern of deep blue and white, a technique apparently learnt in Venice by a Turkish glassmaker who later returned to Istanbul to work. It’s hard to imagine a more perfect magic bottle in which to keep one’s personal genie. How the pattern acquired its name is a mystery, although there are accounts of nightingales (small brown birds of modest appearance, with unremarkable eyes) singing in the woods along the Bosphorus. There is also a Mount Bülbül and a place called Çeşme, both in Antalya.

Another sort of eye, the nazar boncuk, a glass amulet signifying a protective eye, is everywhere in Turkish designs. The protective eye is an ancient symbol in many cultures – the Near East was believed to have its own Eye Goddess – and Turkey’s blue eye beads are particularly striking.

Floral motifs are ubiquitous the world over, but Turkey’s floral motifs are especially distinctive. Driving into the city from Ataturk Airport, one is greeted by Istanbul’s municipal emblem, a graphic design of stylized mosques and minarets arranged to resemble a tulip. In the west, the flower is associated with Holland’s huge bulbous flower industry, although that industry and the ensuing Dutch tulip mania originally sprang from trade with the Ottoman Empire. Visitors to the Ottoman Empire wondered at the Turks’ love of flowers, especially “a type of lily” – i.e., the tulip. The classic Turkish tulip motif has elongated, slender petals. They dance over walls of Iznik tiles, undulate across silk textiles, gleam from the gilding on steel armour, and are depicted standing proudly erect on the lovely carpets from the Ladik region.

Along with the tulip, another well-known pattern is the cintamani, comprising three spots and wavy lines, which derives from leopard and tiger pelts. This motif travelled west with the Turks from Central Asia. Sometimes a single spot is incorporated into a pattern, sometimes a single wavy line, but all have the same origin.

Fritillary, carnation, rose, hyacinth, and narcissus flowers all appear in Turkish decorative art. The pomegranate is also very prevalent: an ancient, widespread symbol of the Middle East signifying fruitfulness. The cypress tree and pine cone are also motifs from antiquity, although the latter is sometimes misinterpreted as a pineapple. Cloud bands and lotuses came west along the Silk Road in the decorations on Chinese ceramics, as did the pattern known as the “golden horn”: fine blue and white spiralling stems with coils and tiny hook-like leaves. This pattern also often appears in manuscripts - as background to a magnificent tuğhra,for example - and in metalwork. Intriguingly, although the bunches of grapes depicted on Iznik dishes copy Chinese blue and white originals, grapes are native to Anatolia, and carved stones show that the Hittite storm god was clearly not averse to a glass of local Anatolian wine. The “tree of life” image is another ubiquitous symbol with origins in the earliest Near Eastern cultures.

Birds appear in embroideries, on tiles, and nearly everywhere else. Green parrots were imported from India on trade ships and kept as pets, as were peacocks, which were a favourite with the Byzantines. On your next visit to a crafts market, look out for little beadwork birds. Today, these are usually made by prisoners who use beads in the symbolic colours of their favourite football teams; the proceeds from their sale earn the prisoners cigarette money. They occasionally appear in the Spice Bazaar, next to strings of nazar boncuk, around the corner from the flower market.

From the moment a newcomer arrives in Turkey, the visitor is overwhelmed by the richness and distinctive individuality of Turkish decorative motifs. A skyline punctuated by slender minarets and sombre lead-roofed domes will suddenly gleam as a shaft of sunlight reflects off the gilt bronze crescent of an alem,the finial atop the dome. Emblems of the Turkish Republic, the star and crescent, grace its red flag. Everywhere the eye rests, it finds a rich array of patterns and designs.

Akaretler’s Renaissance

Thu, 28 Jul 2011 12:36:00 +0300

The elegant row houses that slope up Süleyman Seba and Şifa Nedim avenues in the Akaretler district of Istanbul, just off the shore road from Beşiktaş, have a classic, timeless appearance. In fact, they were built 136 years ago, as extra accommodations for the royal staff at the nearby Dolmabahçe Palace. After that use became obsolete, the area was gradually developed into a miniature residential and retail district.

Akaretler’s shopping scene was revitalized in 2008, when a group of leading international clothing designers including Damas, Marc Jacobs, Lanvin, Jimmy Choo,and Chloé opened branches on its streets. Many of those boutiques have since closed,however, and an array of trendy, high-end shops and galleries have moved into their oldhomes on the cobbled streets of Akaretler.

These days, the neighborhood features a less pricey and more Turkish selectionof fashionable retailers and eateries. Akaretler now boasts the flagship branch of Haremlique, retailer of elegantly designed linens and textiles, hip new wine barCorvus, branches of upscale jewelry shops such as Sevan Bıçakçı and Storks, a CanHi-Fi audio and video center for your high-end technology needs, and a wedding outletby Turkish luxury designer Vakko. The Turkish coffee-shop chain and purveyor of finechocolates Kahve Dünyası has opened a branch in the midst of the shops. For a morefilling meal, you can enjoy fine Middle Eastern cuisine in sumptuous armchairs on theshaded terrace of Al Jamal Badawirestaurant, or cross the street for a dinner at KalamataMeyhane. Located at the W Hotel, Minyon offers a warm and elegant atmosphere where you can enjoy a light salad or an afternoon cocktail. Another very recent addition to the area’s dining scene is The WinstonBrasserie, which specializes in upscale Italian fare.

The real stars of the new Akaretler, however, are the eclectic and exciting galleriesthat have opened in the past several months. At the end of 2010, art and photography gallery artlimits moved into the building on Şair Nedim Caddesi formerly occupied by Marc Jacobs. More than 25 different photographs and prints adorn its walls, all available in a variety of sizes. Though some pictures are reminiscent of other media, such aswoodprints or oil paints, most have been digitally created. All the images leave striking and colorful impressions on the viewer. Though small, the gallery has already picked up the work of some extremely prominent artists, such as Ergan Inan, recipient of a 2010 President’s Culture and Art Grand Award.

Another new Akaretler gallery, Art ON, opened in March and held its third exhibitionin June. A group exhibition featuring contemporary art masters such as British pop artistDexter Dalwood and Turkish 3-D artist Seçkin Pirim, the show aimed to juxtapose Turkish contemporary art against the international modern art scene. Previously, Art ONalso distinguished itself with “Virtual Places”, a solo exhibition by Turkish contemporaryphotographer Ali Alışır, and its inaugural exhibition, which featured unique editions bymodern artists such as Damien Hirst and Gary Hume.

A walk through Akaretler will also interest fans of fashionable interior design. InMay of 2011, two contemporary Turkish interior design companies opened branches inthe area. A whimsical animal theme runs through the furniture and interior décor products of Autoban, founded in 2003 by Seyhan Özdemir and Sefer Çağlar. From winged chairs shaped like birdcages to light fi xtures that suggest octopi and spiders, Autoban offers a surrealist spin on everyday objects for the home. For those who enjoy more conventional home accessories, Autoban’s elegant wooden tables, ceramic vases, candleholders, and dazzling selection of colorful glass animal figurines will surely delight.

The 40-year-old company Derin Designoffers products for those seeking the thin furniture,fluid shapes, and solid colors that characterize more minimalist, mid-century-modernhome design. The wide selection of candleholders on offer resemble everything fromfactory pipes to sponges, and some of the lamps and ceramic accessories look likeinstruments from a science laboratory. Derin’s designs are as practical as they arecontemporary: plastic shelves that fold into themselves and sleek, spare chair-and-tablesets will refine your living space.

You can also visit Akaretler virtually and check out a map of the district as well aslinks to each gallery at www.akaretler.com.tr.

Shop at the Grand Bazaar

Thu, 14 Jul 2011 01:16:00 +0300

Where to Eat

Fes Cafe: Located just outside of the bazaar by the Nuruosmaniye Entrance, the second branch of this gem of a café offers an extensive menu, including main courses and alcoholic drinks. Choices include salads, sandwiches, desserts, coffee, tea, juices, and cold beverages.

Aslan: Located just steps from the Bazaar, Aslan is an esnaf(tradesman) restaurant, specializing in Turkish home cooking. The selection of delicious hot and cold dishes changes daily in this casual eatery where the focus is on flavors rather than décor.

Havuzlu: A classic among Grand Bazaar restaurants, Havuzlu offers home-made meals, extensive vegetarian options as well as grilled meats and kebab varieties. Make sure you try their traditional Turkish desserts!

Where to Drink

Fes Cafe:When it’s time for a coffee break, head to Fes Cafe by the Old Bedesten, located in the heart of the Bazaar. This is the perfect place for a rejuvenating cup of tea or coffee, with tasty light meals to nibble away your exhaustion.

Şark Kahvesi:Revamp your energy with a cup of Turkish coffee at this traditional coffee house.

Whether you have your compulsive shopping under control or not, shopping at the Grand Bazaar is a must do in Istanbul.

With over 4000 stores under one roof, the Grand Bazaar is a retail-therapy dream come true! If you’re going to the Grand Bazaar to complete your list of “things to do in Istanbul” and not with the intention of shopping, we’ve got news for you: you’ve taken on an inhuman task: going to the Grand Bazaar equals shopping whether you like it or not.

So we’ve boiled it down to the best of the best, trying to save you some time and effort, and hopefully making your visit a little less chaotic and overwhelming.

But before we list our recommendations, here is what you need to know before you step in the Bazaar and start throwing your valuable dollars around.

First and foremost, don’t pressure yourself. Trying to see the entire Grand Bazaar in one afternoon is an unrealistic task. It’s more than likely that there won’t be enough time or you’ll get too tired. Once you accept this, you won’t rush from one shop to the next and you’ll get to enjoy the extraordinary shopping experience of the Bazaar.

And it’s not just the act of buying but the act of bargaining and chatting with sellers that make the Grand Bazaar experience so special and unique. You’ll see that the thousands of stores that are lined next to each other sell similar stuff; that’s why bargaining works and that’s why customer service is crucial. But it’s not for the sake of customer service that shop owners chat away with customers and offer them tea—that’s just the Turkish way of welcoming visitors.

Although the Grand Bazaar often feels like an overwhelming sensory-overload, especially for first-timers, there are a few ways of making the experience smoother. You’ll quickly notice that once you lay your hands on a product, regardless of whether you have the intentions of buying it or not, the shop keeper will “attack” you, trying to close the sale. This is a typical scenario on the main streets of the Bazaar, so we suggest you begin your trip on the side streets where things are bit calmer. Also, keep in mind that the shop keepers of the best shops won’t “harass” you to buy their products. Speaking of harassment, you’re more than likely to witness men bantering with bazaar-goers, especially women. Some do see this as harassment, but this is just the character of the place. If you hear anyone cracking a joke, just laugh it off and don’t take it seriously.

Keep in mind that light and playful bargaining is accepted but don’t get aggressive. If you change your mind or don’t like the way the bargaining is going, just leave and move on to the next shop.

Having digested all this information, you’re now ready to shop away. Even though we tell you the best spots in the Bazaar, you should still rummage your way through the Bazaar just for the fun of it. And remember that this list doesn’t even begin to scratch the surface of what the Grand Bazaar has to offer but it does steer you in the right direction.

Carpets & Kilims:With the new airport regulations, you’ll be pushing your luck if you try to squeeze a rug or kilim in your luggage. But that surely won’t stop you from buying one at the Grand Bazaar. We suggest you head directly to Şişko Osman. A fourth-generation family business, the store features a wide selection of carpets and kilims chosen from all over the country, at all price ranges. Another fourth-generation family business is Ahmet Hazım, featuring a good selection of patchwork kilims and rugs in addition to those with contemporary and traditional designs. Ethnicon stands for two things: ethnic and contemporary. And the store offers just that.You’ll find unique, hand-woven carpets and kilims made with a range of colors. Most designs are modeled on existing kilims, with special attention paid to details like tassels. Along a similar vein is Dhoku, another carpet & kilim store by Ethnicon’s owner, specializing in contemporary designs.

Leather:If you’re after high-quality leather goods at considerably reasonable prices (when compared to the stores in high-end neighborhoods), stop by Koç Deri. Prepare to spend a considerable amount of time trying on anything from classic leather jackets to chic fur coats. For a more minimalist take on leather, stop by Punto Deri.

Turkish Textiles and Goodies:Head to Abdulla for all-natural products, including towels, blankets from Southeast Anatolia, peştemals, and shawls. You’ll also find pure olive oil soaps and bath accessories, such as kese (scrub mitt). Similar to Abdulla is Derviş, whichboasts a colorful range of secondhand clothing that are in fact ‘sandık eskileri’—clothing from the treasure chests of people’s homes from all over Anatolia and, therefore, with a little history. You’ll also find soaps, olive oil, and necklaces made out of karanfil (cloves). Sivaslı Istanbul Yazmacısı features a lovely collection of scarves, stockings, gloves, and other ethnic goodies, mostly handmade and featuring Turkish motifs. Cocoon carries traditional weave hats, tops, accessories, rugs, and textiles from Anatolia as well as Central Asia and Persia.

Antiques:You’ll find tons of antiques and antique-looking objects at the Grand Bazaar. It’s standard practice to try to sell antique-looking stuff as antique, so you need to know that where you’re going is trustworthy. Sofa is one such store, a collector’s heaven, featuring antiques, books, art, furniture, sculptures, and much much more. Everything has a feeling of contemporary meets the not-so-contemporary, which makes the pieces even that much more beautiful and enchanting. Prints, maps, ceramics, miniatures, calligraphy, antique rugs, silver, and contemporary art are all to be found, along with books on Turkey, cookbooks, and CDs. It is like a mini Bazaar in itself, with less hassle! Khaftan Arts and Antique carries everything from ceramics, antique, and Ottoman textiles to old prints, maps, and rare books.

Jewelry:You’ll find loads of jewelry stores around the Bazaar and you will be tempted over and over again. For a blend of ancient art and modern influences, see Hilat's collection of handcrafted gold jewelry. If you’re after something chic and sophisticated, have a look at contemporary jewelry designer Örge Tulga’s creations. Using silver, gold, and a wide variety of semi-precious stones, Tulga designs simple and elegant pieces, often inspired by shapes in nature. But if you’re going for something over-the-top, jeweler Sevan Bıçakçı is your man.

Gifts and Souvenirs:Obviously, you can’t go back home empty handed. You’ll want to buy something to take back with you—either to give as a gift to a friend or to keep for yourself. A relative newcomer to the bazaar, Sasanna Tasarım carries a range of elegant and tasteful gift items. Home and office accessories are produced using high-quality natural materials, such as marble and copper, and embellished with traditional Turkish motifs, making this an ideal place to find gifts. İznik Art specializes in çini (traditional Turkish pottery and tiles)from the western city of Iznik. Iznik tiles are famous the world over, andare ornately decorated in turquoiseand coral-red floral motifs. This storeproduces a wide range of high-qualitytiles and decorative objects in traditionalpatterns, including bowls, jugs, vases, and even mosque lamps.

Top 7 Gift Ideas

Mon, 04 Jul 2011 18:21:00 +0300

Buying gifts can be a difficult task while on vacation. There are staple items recommended to buy as gifts from Istanbul, but we go a little further... Here's our reccomendations on what to buy as gifts and where to buy it from!

Armaggan

Armaggan is definitely somewhere to head for unusual, beautiful decorative articles for the house, as well asjewelry, artistic objects, natural dyed textiles and home textiles. Each item is hand made and of very good quality, designed to last. The textiles used are particularly special, made of 100\\\% natural fiber and organic dye.

Peştemal from Dört Mevsim

Traditionally worn in Turkish Baths, a peştemal is lighter version of a towel. Highly absorbent and travel friendly, they make an ideal and compact gift for friends back home.

Prints of Old Maps from Galeri Alfa

The perfect gift forthat impossible-to-shop-for man in yourlife. You can find original and reproduction engravings of Istanbul, Anatolia, and the Ottoman Empire, as well as antique maps and prints, and toy soldiers.

Paşabahçe

This Turkish retailer has been making high-quality traditional glassware for years. You can find everything from vases and bowls adorned with traditional Ottoman motifs and Byzantine mosaics to modern cut glass and ceramics.

Cushions from Yastık by Rıfat Özbek

Yastık means "cushion" in Turkish and that is exactly what is on sale here - shelf upon shelf of cushions in a huge array of patterns and colors. An extraordinary variety of fabrics from around the world are used to make the cushions, including Ottoman silks, Brazilian and Anatolian floral patterns, African tribal prints and English interior stripes.

Lokum Istanbul

This boutique shop sells not only lokum (Turkish Delight) but also akide şekeri (hard candy), scented candles, and a fragrance range designed by the owner, Zeynep Keyman Garan. It’s not just the inventive and tasty products but also the boxes that are oh-so cute. Available in big and small sizes, the boxes are covered with toile and fringed with pompoms. In fact, all the packaging is high-end, finished with grosgrain ribbons.

Coffee Box Gift Set from Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi

Synonymous with Turkish coffee, Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi has been selling the best Turkish coffee since 1871.

Bebek: The Jewel of the Bosphorus

Mon, 04 Jul 2011 18:06:00 +0300

One of the most picturesque Bosphorus neighborhoods, Bebek is known as an elite,upscale part of town with a large foreign contingent. With its designer boutiques and many cafés and restaurants, Bebek is the ideal place to spend a pleasant day away from the hectic pace of the city. Here you can stroll along the water basking in the glory of the Bosphorus while also enjoying shopping, entertainment, and dining within a just few city blocks.

Bebek means baby in Turkish, and the area’s history dates back to pre-Christian times, when it was known as Chilai or Skallai, meaning pier. Prior to the conquest of Istanbul, Bebek was a simple Greek fishing village. During the construction of Rumeli Hisarı (Fortress), Sultan Mehmet II sent the supposedly baby-faced Bebek Çelebi to the region in 1451 to maintain order, and the area took Bebek Çelebi’s name after his death. Under the rule of Sultan Ahmet III in the late 17^th and early 18^th century, Bebek grew into a summer resort area. When the ferry terminal opened in the mid-19^th century, Bebek became a thriving neighborhood with year- round residents. With the opening of Robert College (now called Bosphorus University) in 1863, many foreigners settled in the area.

A small compact neighborhood on the European shore, its verdant hills are dotted with elegant houses and apartments that slope down to a bay filled with bobbing rowboats and luxurious private yachts. On any given day, the main street Cevdetpaşa Caddesi is filled with strolling couples, parents pushing strollers, students from the nearby university, joggers and dog walkers--often moving faster than the cars stuck in the shoreline traffic.

Running parallel to the water, Bebek is easy to navigate, and starts with the white turreted Art Nouveau building that is the Egyptian Consulate (also known as the Valide Paşa Mansion). Built in 1902, this landmark building was designed by Italian architect Raimondo D’Aronco for an Ottoman official, and was later sold to the Egyptian Embassy, which then became the Egyptian Consulate when all embassies moved to Ankara, which became Turkey’s new capital. Over the years, this fairytale building became very run down, but it will soon re-open following a major renovation project that has restored it to its previous splendor.

Next to the Egyptian Consulate is the lovely Bebek Park, a magnet for families and dog lovers. Renovated by the Sabancı Foundation, it was re-named the Türkan Sabancı Bebek Park after it was re-opened in 2008, and now features an improved children’s playground and dog run. The park is also home to the charming municipal ferry terminal dating back to 1851. At the edge of the park is the Hümayunü Abad Mosque, an exquisite, beautifully-maintained structure that dates back to 1912. Right by the mosque is one of Bebek’s most well-known yet humble eateries Bebek Kahve.As its name suggests, this is a traditional, simple Turkish coffee house that nevertheless attracts many of the city’s intellectuals and many locals. Here you will find people whiling the day away chatting, playing backgammon and cards, or just reading a book or newspaper.

On the main street Cevdetpaşa Caddesi, you will find a number of small boutiques, and as of recent years, a number of clothing stores. One of the most successful Turkish apparel chains Yargıcı, known for its classic preppy clothes in neutral tones, now has two branches here, one which only sells accessories. Mapa is another established Turkish brand that specializes in well-tailored clothing in quality fabrics. Another Turkish store that has been receiving a lot of media attention of late is Midnight Express, a concept store that sells ready to wear clothing, jewelry, decorative items, and furniture. The aesthetic here is urban and sophisticated, with the designs of many young Turkish and international designers featured. Midnight Express has two branches in Bebek, one which only carries jewelry pieces. Another small, local boutique is Cashmere in Love, which carries a range of knitwear in modern designs made of quality Mongolian cashmere.

If you are looking for gifts for your friends back home, then head to Herşey Aşktan, a local store specializing in jewelry, ceramics, and other decorative items in Ottoman motifs. They also produce a range of beautifully-packaged traditional Turkish sweets.If its home décor and gifts that you are in the market for, head to Dört Mevsim, which specializes in high-quality products for home decoration in simple designs that fuse European and Ottoman styles. Noteworthy products include hand-printed traditional pesştemal (Turkish-style towels) and hand-blown glassware.

For books, magazines, and newspapers in Turkish, English, and other languages, be sure to check out the Yasemin Pasajı (arcade), as well as the Dünya Aktüel Kitabevi, a small shop bursting with magazines and books, mostly in foreign languages. Bebek is also a good place to buy hard-to-find ingredients and foreign foods. Santral Şarküteri is a Bebek institution that sells everything you can imagine from regional Turkish cheeses to Duncan Hines cake mixes. For fresh fish, try the spotless Bebek Balık Evi where the specialties includebottarga (a local delicacy of cured fish roe) and lakerda (salted bonito).

If all that shopping wears you out, there are many options for a quick pick-me-up. If it’s a sugar rush you’re looking for, there is plenty on offer. Bebek Badem Ezmesi was established in 1904, and is best known for its marzipan (almond paste). The shop also sells a range of candies and other sweets. The famous Baylan, which is known for its legendary Kup Griye ice cream Sundae also opened a branch here in 2010. On a hot summer day Cremeria Milano is a welcomed option, serving authentic Italian ice cream and gelato. A local favorite is Mini Dondurma (open only in the summer), a tiny ice cream shop next to the Bebek Hotel that has been serving some of the best scoops in the city since 1968. Meanwhile,Bebek Brasserie and Patisserie (part of the Divan Group) known for their excellent cakes and pastries, has been serving loyal customers for some twenty years. The entrance level is filled with Divan delights including chocolates, cakes, and cookies. The brasserie downstairs has indoor seating plus a covered terrace by the water. One of the most recent additions is the first Turkish branch of the French patisserie Ladurée that specializes in macaroons.

If caffeine is your drug of choice, Bebek is home to what must arguably be one of the best situated Starbuck’s in the world, with its spectacular view of the Bosphorus and the Asian shoreline. UK-based coffee chain Caffé Nero also has a five story waterside branch here. However, if you are looking for somewhere a bit more up market to enjoy your coffee break, Bebek offers several options where you can sip your latte in style. One of the flashiest and most popular hangouts is Lucca, which is known as the place to see and be seen. Opened in 2004, this restaurant became an instant hit with Istanbul’s glitterati, and is almost always packed, with the crowds spilling out onto the sidewalk. The food here is good and the setting warm and stylish.

Right across the street is Happily Ever After that started out as a bakery and café, and soon expanded due to its success. Very popular, particularly for people watching, it now also offers a fantastic Bosphorus view. As well as an international menu, it also servs freshly-baked breads and pastries. Located high above the main street is another local favorite Mangerie. To find the entrance, go up past the Ebil Hair Salon (a great place to get dolled up for a night on the town). Once you catch a glimpse of the view of the street below and the water beyond, you quickly realize why Mangerie is worth the climb. The emphasis here is on good food served well, and the tasteful décor of mainly white wood and painted floors make this an ideal spot for brunch. Further along the water is Bebek Koru Kahvesi, an elegant and cozy café serving international favorites.

Bebek is also an excellent part of town to enjoy local seafood, with a number of long-standing restaurants present as well as some new additions. Bebek Balıkçısı is a rather formal restaurant open since 1961. Its chandeliers, bow-tie-wearing waiters, and white linen tablecloths take you back to a time when ‘dining’ was still a formal affair.If it’s drinks you’re after, then head to Bebek Bar located in the Bebek Hotel. Opened in 1963 and completely refurbished in 2002, this hotel is recommended by The Charming Hotels Independent Luxury Hotels of the World. No wonder it’s recommended, given its fantastic location and old-world style and service. The hotel is nevertheless best known for its bar and Les Ambassadeurs restaurant on its premises. With its wood paneling and leather chairs, Bebek Bar feels like an English gentleman’s club, but is anything but stuffy offering a lovely terrace and one of the finest views boasted by a bar in Istanbul.

While Bebek was traditionally known for its independent cafés and restaurants, in recent years, a number of major Turkish chain restaurants have opened branches here, including House Café and Kitchenette. However, despite the opening of these well-known chains, Bebek has managed to retain its boutique atmosphere. Indeed, while many of Istanbul’s neighborhoods are being eroded by migration and urban sprawl, Bebek remains a unique enclave that has preserved its elite lifestyle. One look and it is easy to see why Bebek is known as the pearl of the Bosphorus.

Updated on March 15, 2012

Take a Turkish Cooking Class at ICI

Sat, 25 Jun 2011 17:34:00 +0300

While Istanbul offers many centuries-old attractions, it’s not the architecture, the grand palaces, or the museums that keep lingering in a visitor’s mind long after they have returned home. It’s the food. The baklava. The kebap. The simit. Unfortunately, most Turkish restaurants abroad can’t deliver the real deal, so you have two options: either make a yearly pilgrimage to Istanbul or learn the secrets of Turkish cooking before you leave.

We’re definitely not suggesting that you shouldn’t visit Istanbul every year, but the second option is probably more practical and cost-effective. And that’s why a cooking class at ICI is must do!

An educational and vocational center that was established in 2008 by Hande Bozdoğan, Istanbul Culinary Institute (ICI) offers professional certificate programs as well as amateur cooking classes (taught by ICI instructor chefs as well as guest chefs) in their modern building in the heart of Beyoğlu.

Their monthly schedule includes several Turkish cooking classes. In June, there were two classes on offer by Guest Chef Pamela Deniz De Andria; one was Turkish Cuisine (where participants learned to make black-eyes peas salad and zucchini cooked in olive oil among other dishes), and the other one was Mezzes/Summer Appetizers (where the menu included sea bass ceviche with pink peppercorns and mashed broad beans with dill).

No need to worry if ICI doesn’t have a Turkish cooking class to your liking while you’re in Istanbul—you can book a private class or group class (of at least 5 people). In fact, that’s how most visitors go about learning the art of Turkish cooking at ICI.

If you’re serious about learning the tricks of Turkish cuisine, their 5-day crash course is a great option. Last year’s menu included mantı(Turkish dumplings stuffed with meat), artichoke cooked in olive oil,eggplant salad, rice pilaf with tomatoes, apricot compote, Turkish coffee, and much more! The crash course is likely to be offered again this August but if it’s not, you can arrange for such a crash course to be organized for you and your friends.

To give you an idea about how ICI courses work, The Guide team embarked on a cooking adventure of its own.

Here is what happened.

Taught by guest chef Laçin Behlil, the menu of the Impressive Dishes course included shrimp with garlic and feta cheese sauce, baked sea bass with olive and bell peppers, potatoes with bay leaf, and baked pears with sweet wine sauce. There were 5 participants, including the two of us from the Guide, and the atmosphere was very friendly and intimate. Don’t worry if you’re not experienced, this is not a competitive environment at all.

The 2.5-hour class kicked off with each person introducing themselves. In no time, we had our aprons on and were standing by our designated spots to get going. In some classes, participants form pairs to tackle the recipes. During our course, we didn’t work in pairs; instead, each participant was assigned a separate task, such as chopping garlic, cutting potatoes, or preparing the sauce. Certain time-consuming preparations, such as deboning the fish, were done by the assistants prior to the class starting time. All ingredients used in the class were high quality and fresh, including the impressively large shrimp.

It was surely a hands-on course and it was taught in such a way that even the most inexperienced cooks could keep up. As we cut, chopped, and mixed ingredients, the chef kept on giving us little tricks and tips on how to alter the recipe—which is probably one of the best aspects of taking a cooking class because most cook books will give you a recipe without offering you any varieties. If you like to play it safe, you can take a course to learn how to make a fantastic dish so that when you have guests over you know that you’ll be able to impress.

After we were done with the cooking, we all sat at the table, sipping our choice of red or white wine, chatting away, and waiting for the oven to do its magic. Once everything was ready and the food was served, silence took over for a few minutes: we were all very hungry but also amazed at how marvelous the dishes had turned out.

If you’re after a great learning experience and an enjoyable evening, the amateur classes are definitely for you. Call ICI when you’re in Istanbul (or even before you arrive) to book a spot at one of their cooking classes or reserve a time for a private/group class. You’ll see that it is a great investment—one that will pay off months after you leave as you’ll be able to cook great Turkish food at home.

The bookings depend on the availability of chefs and the ICI kitchen. Most instructor chefs can teach in English, but it’s safer to call in advance to let them know that you’ll be needing instructions in English. If the chef doesn’t speak English, there will be an assistant present who can translate. The prices for monthly courses are approximately 120 TL. If you’re after a private or group course, you will be given a separate price. Ask them about team-building, corporate cooking courses, and gift certificates. Call (0212) 251 22 14 for more information and to register.

Elections in Turkey: More of the same

Wed, 15 Jun 2011 17:00:00 +0300

Multiparty democracy was established in Turkey in 1950. But it has since witnessed many ups and downs. The democratic process was interrupted several times by direct military interventions or indirect military interferences. The strong Jacobin state structure started to be dismantled only in the 1980s under the late Turgut Özal who, as Prime Minister and subsequent President of the Republic, liberalized and reformed the economy and the state bureaucracy.

Despite still-existing deficiencies, one of the strong points of the Turkish democracy is its well-designed electoral procedures. The latest election, which took place on June 12, confirmed this once again. More than 40 million people went to the polling stations with practically no irregularity reported, and the computed results started to be announced only one hour after voting ended. The winner was the Justice and Development party (AKP), a conservative party deeply attached to religious values that has been in power since 2002. It won almost 50\\% of the votes and 326 of the 550 seats in the parliament and, thus, became the majority party again. The People’s Republican Party (CHP), which defines itself not very convincingly as a social democratic party, came second with nearly 26\\% of the votes and 135 seats in the parliament. The nationalist party MHP got 13\\% of the votes and 53 seats, while the BDP representing almost exclusively the Kurdish population obtained 36 seats.

One of the main issues to be tackled by the political parties once the parliament starts functioning will be the drafting of a new constitution. This will be an awesome task since the views of the parties differ widely on some crucial constitutional principles. The AKP was hoping to get 367 seats in the parliament, which would have enabled AKP to single-handedly adopt a new constitution. Alternatively, if it had obtained at least 330 seats it could have drafted a constitution and submit it to a referendum for approval by the people. The Prime Minister Recep Tayyip Erdoğan was hoping, through one of these methods, to abolish the present parliamentary system and replace it with a presidential system, which would have enabled him to become President of the Republic with wide executive powers. Now, with only 326 votes, he can no longer achieve his aim without the support of the opposition, which has no intention of facilitating his far-reaching objectives.

There are several articles in the present constitution adopted in 1982 that are extremely controversial. In particular, the Kurds believe that some of the wording has inherently racial connotations; CHP is strongly opposed to the modification of some articles, which they consider almost sacrosanct, because, in their view, they enunciate the fundamental philosophy of the Republic created by Mustafa Kemal Atatürk in 1923.

A new constitution is not the only issue that will challenge the new parliament and government. The “Kurdish problem” will also remain extremely critical. Democracy cannot flourish and sustainable stability cannot be achieved as long as the PKK terrorism continues and the Kurdish population considers that its cultural identity is not fully recognized. On the other hand, it should be clear to the Kurds that any erosion of the existing unitary state system—any arrangement for regional autonomy—will never be accepted. However, some decentralization encompassing the entire country could be envisaged while maintaining the exclusive responsibility of the central government in crucial areas, such as internal and external security. In this respect, the regional system of France could serve as a model.

The elections took place a time when the world’s attention was focused on what is called the “Arab Spring” in North Africa and the Middle East. This is a spring accompanied by violent storms, and Turkey is particularly affected by them. Some 9,000 Syrians fleeing violence and persecution have already crossed the border and requested refuge in Turkey. The civil war in Libya has dealt a heavy blow to large scale Turkish investments there. In Iraq, the relative political stability, which was achieved after last year’s elections, is still precarious. The new Turkish Government will face daunting challenges in the Middle East and of one them is, of course, repairing Turkish-Israeli relations, which have been badly damaged over the last two years.

The foreign policy issues that the new AKP Government will confront are not limited to the Middle East. The accession process to the European Union has to be revitalized. The Cyprus conflict, which constitutes one of the main obstacles to accession to the EU, remains without a solution since 1963.The initiative to normalize relations with Armenia is still stalled. AKP should more energetically tackle all these problems in the early months of the new mandate and also seek the support of the opposition. Experience has shown that the best period for a government to tackle difficult problems are the first six months. After that all political parties usually concentrate their attention solely on the next elections.

Some people have been surprised by the extent of AKP’s victory. They assumed that, after nine years in power and some controversial policies and attitudes perceived as authoritarian or ideological, the support for AKP would inevitably diminish. To a large extent, the media propagated this opinion as well. The CHP leadership tried to convey the image of a party very confident of its own victory. But they were forgetting that what really matters is economic growth and the scale and quality of social services. In these two areas the performance of AKP is indeed impressive. To give just a few examples, the GDP which was 230 billion dollars in 2002 has now reached the level of 736 billion dollars. The per capita GDP is now 10,000 dollars. At a time when countries such as Spain, Portugal, and particularly Greece have accumulated foreign debts surpassing their GDP, Turkey’s foreign debt is equivalent to only 28.7\\% of GDP. The economic development has permitted a vast extension of social services. Between 2003 and 2011, some 500 hospitals and 1384 clinics have been built. All citizens have now medical insurance. Most of the people living in shanty towns have now moved to modern apartment houses.

It would be wrong to say that the picture is rosy in every respect. The Turkish democracy is far from being perfect. There have been some attempts to intimidate the media, the freedom of expression continues to be limited, minority rights are not fully respected, and the justice system is in need of substantial reforms. But the remedy to all these problems is still democracy. As Winston Churchill has said, “Democracy is the worst political system, except all the others.”

Fal: Fortune-telling a la Turca

Wed, 08 Jun 2011 21:00:00 +0300

How To Make Turkish Coffee:

• Fill the fincan (the delicate Turkish coffee cup) with water and pour it into the cezve (a bell-shaped copper pot)

• For each serving, add one teaspoon of coffee. Add sugar to taste: sade (plain), orta (medium), or şekerli (very sweet)

• Stir the coffee, sugar, and water thoroughly on low-heat

• Once the coffee starts frothing up, pour enough coffee in each cup to fill them halfway

• Put the cezve back on the heat, keep there for about a minute or until it froths up again, and then pour the remaining coffee in the cups

Synonymous with Turkish coffee around the world, Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi has been selling the best Turkish coffee since 1871 with strong arabica flavor and a heavenly aroma.

Note: It’s customary to serve Turkish coffee with something sweet (preferably Turkish delight) and a glass of water.

Have you ever been confronted with a problem, challenge, or dilemma withwhich you could not cope? Most of us have, and in such circumstances, many of us will often turn to others for guidance or look for some short-cut to the answer. For those of us in Turkey, this is often where fortune telling comes in. In Turkey, as in many other countries in the world, fortune-telling has long been an important part of the social fabric. Since Ottoman times, and possibly even before then, Turks have yearned to know the unknown, to discover the mystery of the cosmic world, and learn what the future holds in advance, so that they could command their destiny or even change it, if necessary.

The fear of the future and the unknown and curiosity, which is the root of this fear, are inseparable parts of human nature. These feelings bring to the fore such questions as: Who am I and what will I become? Who will I marry? Will I have a child? Such major questions push people to look for answers, and in Turkey one of the most common ways that people try to find the answers is through fortune-telling—a method that gives hope and promises much for the future.

The practice of fortune-telling can be traced back to 4000 BC in Egypt, Babylon, and China in the form of palm readings and astrology. This should come as no surprise, given how curious human beings are by nature. Fortune tellers exist because people have an intrinsic need to know the unknown, solve the mysteries of the future, and bring an end to their troubles.

Fortune-telling has long played an important role in Turkish culture. Even after the conversion to Islam, which deems fortune telling sinful, Turks continued to practice and value fortune-telling. In fact, a müneccimbaşı (the head of fortune tellers) was kept in the Ottoman palaces to cater to the Sultans’ desires of knowing what the future holds.

With such a long history, fortune-telling comes in many forms and has developed considerably over the years. Today, the options range from water, tea, and coffee, to kurşun dökme (lead pouring), chamomile, and palm reading. The most traditional and widespread of these forms are kahve falı (the reading of fortune through the coffee cup) and kurşun dökme (the pouring of lead in water).

If Coffee Dregs Could Speak

Drinking Turkish coffee is an intrinsic and inseparable part of Turkish culture and, in many ways, it is like a ritual that goes hand in hand with heartfelt conversations with friends. Often, this sense of ritual makes kahve falı all the more enthralling. It’s not just “professional” fortune-tellers that practice kahve falı, and this method of fortune-telling is not always done with the serious intention of learning about thefuture. In fact, many women know how to read kahve falı and most certainly have had their fortune told in this way.

The root of this type of fortune-telling supposedly dates back to the Ottoman period when Arab nannies lived with wealthy Istanbul families, bringing the kahve falı with them, and it has changed very little from its original version. First, the coffee is drunk (with the dregs left in the cup). The fincan is then turned over on its plate and then swirled around three times while muttering “Neyse halim, çıksın falım” (May the fortune show what my circumstances hold.). Once the cup has cooled, it is turned over and the fortune is read based on the various shapes that the dregs have taken.

What does it mean?

The bottom of the cup tells of the past, the middle is about the present, the top is about the future.

Fish: A new love interest is on the way
Triangle: You will receive money
Circle: Your luck has turned and things will start going your way
A short, vertical line: You will go on a road trip
A beaming sun: Your biggest dreams will come true very soon
Eye: Someone is jealous of you
Bird: You will receive news from your lover
A tree: You will go on vacation
Keys: You will move to a new house

What about “a three-way”?

Although not a firm believer in fate or destiny, I’ve always been fascinated with fortune-telling and its various forms. As a teenager, I would let gypsy women in Bebek read my palm, although I never took this very seriously. Over time, my interest in fortune-telling grew, and I was no longer satisfied with hearing happily-ever-after stories from women looking to earn a quick buck. When it comes to love, people say that you’ll find it not when you’re searching for it, but when you least expect it. I tend to think that the same goes for fortune tellers.

One day, a friend recommended a fortune teller who combines the forces of coffee, water, and tarot to predict the future. While I imagined the fortune teller working in an eccentrically-decorated apartment on the outskirts of the city, I instead found myself in a centrally-located café called Şuşu in Etiler. Pushing my skepticism aside, I tried to keep an open mind, and soon found myself both impressed and more than a bit spooked by how much this stranger seemed to know about me.

She first asked me what my sign is, and wrote my name and my mother’s name on a piece of paper that she put in a silver bowl filled with water. She said a short prayer over the bowl, then started speaking to me while holding my hand, as if my skin was transferring my history to her. While looking at the silver bowl, my coffee cup, and a set of tarot cards, she began talking about my past, present, and future using the combined forces of these three objects. While I will not get into the details of all the things she predicted about my future, I will say that many things she said about my past were eerily accurate, to the point that I found the experience somewhat unnerving.

Kill two birds with one stone

Many people believe that the evil eye can cast a spell on the object of its gaze: a much-loved vase can break unexpectedly or a beloved piece of jewelry can get lost. When such things happen, Turks believe that the source of these misfortunes is nazar—something that occurs when the evil eye is on someone. It is believed that when nazar is upon you, your health and possessions are in danger. In order to free oneself from nazar and rid oneself of the effects of it, people use a method called kurşun dökme.

The procedure goes like this: the kurşuncu (the person taking the nazar off you) heats up the kurşun (lead) over the stove. She then sits you down, covers you up with a blanket, and pours the kurşun in a bowl of water, causing the water to splatter and the kurşun to take various shapes and forms.

Although I had been very curious about kurşun dökme for quite some time, I had my first personal experience just recently. I had expected the kurşuncu to be an old, traditional, and conservative lady, probably because all my prior knowledge was based on Turkish films. Yet, I found the real experience to be far from how it’s represented in the movies.

The kurşuncu (a young and warm lady that I found through word of mouth) didn’t speak of nazar or the evil eye. Instead, to my great surprise, she spoke of chakras and energies. She explained that we all carry bad energies and the sources of such energies could be other people (people with evil eyes) or ourselves. She reassured me that the kurşun dökme takes the bad energies out of the body while also balancing the chakras.

The pouring of the lead in the pot is repeated several times to take the bad energy out of each major chakra and the future is predicted based on the form and shape that the lead takes. Ridding oneself of bad energies and getting a glimpse of the future in one sitting... can it get better than that?

Cihangir & Çukurcuma: The Land of Antiques and Hipsters

Fri, 27 May 2011 17:18:00 +0300

Despite its central location, Çukurcuma is an area that remains relatively unknown to most residents and tourists, and is therefore considered to the neighborhood and it is easy to see why. Bursting with antique shops yet not the least bit touristy, the area offers an extraordinary range of antique pieces and novelty items.

Çukurcuma is a historical neighborhood located in the heart of the Beyoğlu district, hemmed in by Cihangir, Tophane, and Galatasaray, and it is currently undergoing a period of gentrification. Although a bit off the beaten path, the area has long been popular among antique enthusiasts. Çukurcuma, which means ‘Hollow Friday’, allegedly acquired its name when Fatih Sultan Mehmed II came to this hollow to say his Friday prayers before he conquered Istanbul. In the decades after the conquest of Istanbul, a few landmark buildings were built in the area, including the Çukurcuma Mosque, which was built by Mimar Sinan, and the crumbling Ağa Hamam, a Turkish bath that was built in 1562.

Wandering in and out of Çukurcuma’s various shops and through its winding streets, it is difficult not to get lost—but that is, in fact, half the fun. As you meander down the streets, you will notice that most of the buildings have quite a European architectural style. This is because the area was once the home of a large Greek, Armenian, and Levantine community. Although most of the area is still in a state of elegant decay, some of the buildings have started to get a facelift and some have already been restored to their previous splendor.

As many young hipsters from neighboring Cihangir are slowly opening shops and cafés in Çukurcuma, the area has been taking on an increasingly bohemian feel. Recently, a number of funky boutiques and designer shops have been popping up and joining the more established antique shops. Some shops have the air of a flea market brimming with curio objects and kitsch. You really have to hunt through the heaps in such stores and this actually makes each find all the more enjoyable. On the other side of the spectrum, in some stores you often feel like you have entered the luxurious home of a wealthy friend who has filled their home with tasteful antiques.

Çukurcuma is also home to many workshops, and in the summer months, you can see the local carpenters hard at work, crafting new pieces and refurbishing old ones. You will notice that the local carpenters, antique dealers, and various shopkeepers in Çukurcuma are very laid-back and happy to chat with you about their goods, explaining the unique provenance of each piece as you browse through their stores. The old men sipping tea and playing backgammon by the shop entrances along the streets and in the shaded gardens of the neighborhood mosques are a testament to this relaxed atmosphere.

While Çukurcuma is currently not on many people’s radar, this is likely to change very soon when Orhan Pamuk’s Museum of Innocence opens (see boxed text on page 82). As Turkey’s prized Nobel-laureate, Mr. Pamuk is known to have something of a Midas touch, and we are sure that this new museum will put Çukurcuma on the tourists’ trail, as well as the locals’ agenda.

A bit further up the hill from Çukurcuma, neighboring Cihangir is considered to be Istanbul’s most bohemian neighborhood. Renowned for its stunning views of the Bosphorus, many artists and intellectuals have now made the area their home. In fact, this area has re-established itself over the past decade and became Istanbul’s hipster haven.

During the reign of Süleyman the Magnificent, Cihangir was a forested hunting ground and a favorite of his son Jahangir from where the area gets its name. After Jahangir’s death, the Sultan had the legendary architect Mimar Sinan build a mosque in this area as a monument to his son. Thanks to its proximity to Yeşilçam Street in Beyoğlu--the center of the Turkish film industry from the 1950s to the 70s-–many actors and artists chose to make Cihangir their home. However, by the 80s many of the district’s beautiful Art Deco buildings were run down, and like the greater Beyoğlu area, Cihangir came to be known as a rather rough part of town.

Then, like many of Istanbul’s other neighborhoods, Cihangir entered a period of gentrification in the mid-1990s. This process moved along far more rapidly than in many of the city’s other areas. The rapid movement was helped along, no doubt, by the lack of industrial production in the area as well as the breathtaking views of the Bosphorus. A sharp rise in rents quickly transformed the area into a middle- class neighborhood, dotted with cafés and restaurants. Today, many actors and artists live here and they have been joined by numerous expats. In fact, Orhan Pamuk has his office here, and often writes about the neighborhood’s history and evolving character.

While the area is better known for its nightlife scene and cafés, there are also a number of interesting shops. One standout is Mariposa, which is a charming little retro-themed shop that carries a range of colorful clothing and decorative household items. As well as their own clothing line, this store also makes tailored items to order. The faux-vintage home décor items are particularly popular among nostalgia lovers. Along a similar vein is the clothing boutique Berrin Akyuz, which specializes in re-worked vintage clothing items as well as new pieces with a romantic feel. A favorite among locals, the store also carries a range of accessories.

Although better known as a restaurant, White Mill also has a small café/shop at the entrance that sells the artworks of well-known local artist Aida Pekin. Pekin works with silver, gold, and felt to create whimsical pieces of jewelry, and also produces a range of dainty decorative items in white porcelain. For organic beauty and health products, head to Vie en Rose, specializing in all-natural products, including soaps, creams, scented oils, and teas. All items are produced using certified organic products grown on local farms, with the Turkish rose cream making an ideal gift for friends back home. Meanwhile, one of the best record shops in the city Opus 3A, is also in Cihangir. While they specialize in jazz and classical music, you can find almost everything, from traditional Ottoman and Kurdish to World music.

Finally, when you feel that it is time to take a break, Cihangir has an excellent selection of cafés from which to choose, including Firuz Café, Smyrna, Momo, Susam and Fol in Love. One particularly noteworthy spot is Cuppa, an excellent café/juice bar that offers a variety of fruit concoctions that make the perfect antidote to a boozy night out. For more substantial fare, try Demeti, a traditional Turkish meyhane (tavern) where you can dine on a wide range of mezes while enjoying the beautiful Bosphorus view. A recent addition to Cihangir’s restaurant scene is Jash. The style of décor here is very much ‘old world charm’, which, along with the home-style Armenian cooking, gives this eatery a very homey feel. Whether you are in the market for antiques, clothing, or nostalgia items, the neighborhoods of Çukurcuma and Cihangir are great places to visit in order to experience a less touristy side of shopping in Istanbul. Both neighborhoods are steeped in history, and also have a great selection of funky shops and charming cafés, making for a winning combination.

Çukurcuma and Cihangir Shops

Classic

You will always be greeted with a gracious welcome at A La Turca—an antique store in a gorgeous four-story house. Owner Erkal Aksoy clearly has an excellent eye for all the finer things in life. As well as a vast array of kilims and carpets, the shop carries a refined collection of furniture, accessories, and antique textiles.

Ayşe Örbek is another tastefully-cluttered shop that specializes in a range of antiques, including pottery, silverware, and marble bowls.

One of the most established shops in the neighborhood is Aslı Günşiray which has been open since 1988. While this shop does carry antiques, the concept is slightly different than others in the area as Günşiray uses imported fabrics from Europe and Central Asia for her own furniture and cushion designs. With her unique style, Günşiray also designs custom-made pieces for commercial and individual spaces.

Şamdan Antique stocks a range of traditional items, such as china, glassware, and pieces of ornamental calligraphy, and specializes in Ottoman and Art Deco pieces.

Playful

In The Works “Objects of Desire” you will find incredibly cluttered shelves that manage to produce a delightful mess. Vintage household items, furniture, and clothing vie for your attention in this shop, where you could easily wile away many hours searching for treasures.

Another vintage store in the area is On Sekiz (18) Mobilya, which specializes in industrial lighting and factory lamps and is the only store of its kind in Turkey. Most of the items date from the 1930s to the 1970s, generally originating from US and the UK. Some furniture pieces and car models are also sold. On Sekiz (18) Mobilya also has another unique specialty: hand-painted signs, which are painstakingly reproduced by shop owner Selçuk Arıkan.

Galeri Alfa, which was one of the first stores to open in this area, is a unique shop specializing in antique maps, engravings, and a collection of toy soldiers. In fact, this is the only place where you can find a collection of lead alloy toy soldier sets of the Ottoman Royal Army and the Janissary corps, each piece hand-painted with historically-accurate costumes. Visiting this shop is a real treat for children and sophisticated collectors alike.

One of the only jewelry shops in this area, Evihan creates playful designs using glass and silver.

Jeweler Kristin Evihan’s specialty creation is pieces with angels that are all original. Ladybug motifs and colorful, chunky rings are also among her popular items.

The Newcomers

A relative newcomer to the area, Modern Tarih specializes in Asian and African art, which is an unusual focus for a shop in Çukurcuma. Exotic would likely be the first word that comes to mind while walking through this shop, which has the feel of the Asian art section of a museum. Modern Tarih offers a carefully-selected collection of carved wooden doors from India, stone Buddhas from Asia, and masks from Africa.

Müstamel Eşya Evi specializes in vintage furniture, particularly from the 1950s and ‘60s. Both refurbished versions of original pieces and reproduction pieces are available, along with paintings by local artists and nostalgic decorative items.

Doğukan Ires runs a small, minimalistic shop called Lüle (Arts of Tophane), which is one of the most recent additions to Çukurcuma. This store specializes in traditional Ottoman terra cotta pottery designs called lüle; The techniques for making this type of pottery were lost for years and were only recently rediscovered.

The Interior Designers

While Çukurcuma is known for its antique stores, there are also several shops offering interior design services. Run by New Zealand-born Christopher Hall, The Hall is one such store that carries both vintage and contemporary pieces. The Hall designs modern furniture lines inspired by different cultures and also provides interior design services for local as well as international clients. Meanwhile, Hakan Ezer’s namesake shop specializes in a more traditional style of décor. Having decorated the homes of some of the most prominent Istanbulites, Ezer also provides interior design services.

Top 7 Kids

Fri, 27 May 2011 11:39:00 +0300

Istanbul Toy Museum

Housed in a historical villa, the Istanbul Toy Museum in Göztepe is a great place to spend a rainy afternoon with the kids. Over 4,000 toys are on display, including many antique ones.

Energy Museum

The two engine rooms of the oldest power plant in Turkey (Silahtarağa) have been reintroduced to Istanbul as a multi-purpose complex housing the Energy Museum and santralistanbul. The Energy Museum exhibits various makes of turbine-generator groups, which were crucial components in the electricity production process and represent the advanced technology of their times. The control room, which served as the point from where production and distribution of electricity was controlled and supervised, was preserved and is being exhibited with all its devices. The Energy Play Zone is a great area for kids, featuring 22 interactive units where kids can produce electricity, touch thousands of volts, create magnetic sculptures, and much more!

Miniatürk

Miniatürk houses about 120 miniatures of Turkish and Ottoman monuments and historical sites, such as the Hagia Sofia and the Galata Tower.

Sultan Kayıkları

The Sultan Kayıkları (The Sultan’s Caique) trip on the Bosphorus is a sultanesque experience that is a fun activity for kids on warm and sunny days. Replicas of the original sultan’s boats, the Sultan Kayıkları are made of woodwork, golden embellishments, and feature imperial sofas covered with rich, red fabrics. You can choose to have a private or a group tour, see the palaces on the shores of the Bosphorus or see the old city with the Golden Horn tours.

Bebek Park

Centrally located near Bebek Kahve and the Bebek Mosque, the Bebek Park is a favorite spot among families and dog-lovers. Featuring a playground and a dog run overlooking the Bosphorus, the park was renovated and renamed the Türkan Sabancı Bebek Park in 2008.

Rahmi Koç Museum

Built by the Koç family and situated on the north side of the Golden Horn (Haliç), this privately-owned museum will take you on a tour of Istanbul’s industrial past. Most of the exhibition items are from Mr. Rahmi M. Koç’s private collection and include steam engines, sea and land vessels, locomotive, submarine, vintage airplane, agricultural machinery, and much more.

Büyükada

The largest of the Princes’ Islands, Büyükada is best enjoyed during the spring and summer months. The most modern style of transportation here is horse-drawn carriages and, as such, is ideal for getting some fresh air. Riding donkeys, walking, cycling, barbequing, and swimming are some of the top activities to be enjoyed on the islan

Eating Seafood the Turkish Way

Wed, 25 May 2011 21:07:00 +0300

Rakı or Wine?

Also called aslan sütü (lion’s milk) and more similar to arak versus the sweeter version ouzo or pastis, rakı is our national drink. There are many brands to choose from, depending on whether you prefer a lighter (Mest) or a moderate (Efe) or a more robust (Tekirdağ) alcohol content. Rakı is available by the glass—(tek (single) or duble (double shot)—or by the 35cl or 70cl bottle. The average alcohol content of rakı is 45 percent. You can either drink it straight up or dilute with water and ice, which turns it to a milky color (thus its nickname). If ordering wine, do not expect to find a vast selection; only a limited amount of Turkish wines are available by the glass or bottle as rakı is predominately preferred at fish restaurants. The most common brands you will find are the top two producers: Doluca and Kavaklıdere.

The countless seafood restaurants in Istanbul run from the inexpensive, no-frills (salaş), and (in most cases) sans alcohol ones, the moderately-priced, family-style restaurants, to the downright expensive fine-dining establishments. Even though a majority of seafood restaurants are lined up along the Bosphorus strait on both sides of Istanbul as well as by the Marmara Sea, there are also many fine eateries that are just as good minus the view.

What to Expect

No matter which class of seafood restaurant you go to, you can pretty much expect the same ritual. Upon being seated, your waiter will turn over your serving plates, fill your water glasses, and ask what you would like to drink. (If alcohol is served, rakı is the preferred accompaniment to your meal.) Your waiter will then either list the choices of cold appetizers or bring over the selections on a tray (which is recommended so that you can see what you’re getting).

The most common cold appetizers and the ones you should definitely try are the beyaz peynir ve kavun (white cheese and melon), patlıcan salatası (smoked eggplant puree), midye dolması (mussels stuffed with rice), deniz börülcesi (samphire prepared with olive oil), lakerda (smoked bonito), and haydari (strained yogurt with dill). Other common cold dishes include shrimp, octopus, or squid, prepared with olive oil.

After the cold appetizers, the waiter will ask you about your salad preference: çoban (with tomatoes, onions, cucumbers) or a green salad (iceberg, romaine, arugula, parsley, etc.). While you’re devouring your appetizers and eating way too much bread, your waiter will ask what kind of fish you would like as a main course and what hot appetizers you would like to share. The hot appetizers are usually fish based and include tava (fried) or ızgara (grilled) calamari, hamsi (anchovies), or octopus; baby shrimp casserole in garlic sauce (karides güveç); and fish patties (balık köftesi).

Quick Tip:

Compared to other eateries, menus at seafood restaurants are most times not available or do not include prices. The reason for this is that appetizers and fish on offer change according to season and are priced as such.

The pièce de résistance of your extravagant meal is the fish! Most Turks prefer their fish either grilled or fried, with no sauces to mask the taste. Most seafood restaurants also have their own specialties, which include baking the fish in parchment paper or encrusting it with sea salt. Unless you specifically ask, you will be served an entire fish—head and all, with a side of onion and tomatoes slices, some greens, and a wedge of lemon. You can ask to have the fish deboned, order half a portion, or order one large fish to share.

It is always best to eat fish in season. However, this is not possible all the time. Additionally, farm-fed fish is less expensive compared to fresh fish from the sea. To find out what fish are in season click here!

So, how do you select your fish?

You can select your fish from the open display. The price is determined by whether it is farm-fed or from the sea, and by the kilo. Ask the price of the fish you are ordering if you don’t want any surprises when you ask for your check.

A meal at a fish restaurant is usually a long affair and lasts at least two hours by the time you order dessert and coffee. After a dizzying array of appetizers, fish, and rakı or wine, most probably you will not have room for dessert, so at least sharea dessert or two for a totally Turkish style experience. Almost all seafood restaurants have chocolate soufflé, sütlaç (rice pudding), baklava (layers of pastry with walnuts and covered with syrup), şekerpare (mini pastries in syrup), tulumba tatlısı (a sugary dessert covered with lots of syrup), and helva (halvah). According to season, kabak tatlısı (pumpkin dessert) or ayva tatlısı (quince dessert)doused with syrup with a side of kaymak (clotted cream) and topped with crushed walnuts will also be on the menu. On the lighter side, you can opt for a refreshing sorbet. The best way to end your meal is with a cup of Turkish coffee.

What to Eat Where - some suggestions:

Adem Baba – Balık Çorbası (Fish Soup)

Kıyı – Kılıç Şiş (Swordfish on a skewer)

Misina Balık – Kalkan Tandır (Tandoori style Turbot)

Set Balık – Levrek Sarma (Stuffed Sea bass) / Rokfor peynirli somon (Salmon with Roquefort cheese)

Takanik – Hamsi Tava (Fried Anchovies)

15 Minutes of Fish

Tue, 03 May 2011 17:23:00 +0300

Part of Istanbul’s age-old culture, eating balık-ekmek (grilled fish sandwich) is a cheap, tasty, and fun tradition that you shouldn’t miss out on during your Eminönü/Sultanahmet trip.

Once you pass over the Galata Bridge headed towards Eminönü, you’ll see nostalgic boats by the waterside on the right. Lots of frenzy going around there, you’ll notice. The reason, of course, is the balık-ekmek.

This is how it goes: the traditionally-dressed sellers get the Norwegian mackerel, grill it in the boat, put it inside half a loaf of bread, add seasonal greens (and fresh onions if desired), and pass it onto the so-called wait staff whose sole purpose is to pass the sandwich from the boat to those hungrily awaiting their sandwich. The cook/fishermen are artists in the field of fish-sandwich making! Our guess it that he can make around 20 per minute.

Several boats, which sell the exact same product, line the shore, and a tent-like structure covers the little area allocated to each boat. Small tables are available under these tents; if going with a group, you should pick one person to order the sandwiches and try to get a table in the meantime as spaces are scarce. Before you begin munching on your sandwich, add salt and lemon juice to taste (you’ll find these on your table).

No need to juggle with finding your choice of drink—it will come to you once you sit down. You’ll see men selling a variety of drinks and they will rush over to your table to sell their beverages. You will also be approached by men selling pickles. Have it as a side dish and drink up the remaining pickle juice (don’t worry, it’s not that sour; it’s actually quite tasty and refreshing).

The whole experience takes 15 minutes. Quick, delicious, and filling. Perfect way to have a little rest from the haggling in the Grand Bazaar. After you finish up, head to the Egyptian bazaar, buy a couple of Turkish delights for dessert, and there you go, your lunch/dinner is complete!

Keep in mind that balık-ekmek is very popular both with tourists and locals, so expect a hungry crowd when you go there. But rest assured that the wait is definitely worth it!

When:The sellers are by the waterside every day, usually starting around 9:00am and closing up around 12:00am

Where:On the right side of the waterside, on your way to Eminönü from the Galata Bridge

How much:The fish sandwich is 4TL; the pickle is 1.5 TL

Turkey on its way to European Union

Thu, 28 Apr 2011 18:14:00 +0300

From everyday rituals such as coffee-drinking to the very name of “Europa” which comes after a Phoenician princess that crossed to Europe from Anatolia, Turkey has been an integral part of European history, culture and geography. Today, the need for further integration, as in full-membership, is just as crucial and urgent, both for Turkey and the European Union.

If I were to choose a single piece of evidence of Turkey’s “Europeanness,” it would be the city of Istanbul. The City of Seven Hills and a Thousand Names now has two additional titles: 2010 European Capital of Culture and 2012 European Capital of Sports. Indeed, it is impossible to think that the European Union would be complete without Istanbul and Turkey.

Looking at the neighborhood of the Ortaköy Office of the Secretariat General for European Union Affairs,I cannot help but think that there is no better demonstration of the European Union’s motto “United in Diversity.” Where else would you possibly find amosque, a synagogue and a church so close to each other? Strolling through Istanbul, this “unity in diversity” is repeated over and over: with different cultural heritages, different paths of life, different beliefs living together, all contributing to the hectic, vibrant life of this cosmopolis.

The energy around the city reflects the dynamism of the country. Turkey is no meek candidate waiting for the European Union to bail out its economy or create employment. It is today the robust man of Europe, both in terms of its economy and its mature democratic institutions.

Turkey, which has started membership negotiations with the European Union, has made major progress in the last decade. From eradication of worst forms of child labor to constitutional amendments that further enhance individual rights and liberties; from major steps for a cleaner environment to greater food safety; Turkey has inched closer to the European Union standards every day, despite political barriers put forward by some circles in the European Union member states.

The 6th largest economy in Europe, Turkey has maintained an annual growth rate of 8.9\\\% that was beyond the expectations of the European Commission. Its dynamic labor force and its innovative private sector is far from being a burden to the European Union. On the contrary, it will provide the much-needed momentum to the stagnating European Union.

Turkey contains the word “key.” Located in a strategic and significant geography, Turkey has an indispensible role for resolving regional and global disputes. Today, more than ever, Turkey pursues an active policy of trouble-shooting, mediating and in helping diminish human suffering around the world. This is one of the focal points of our multi-dimensional, pro-active foreign policy that aims to spread European values and democratic rights around the globe.This includes areas such as the Middle East and North Africa, which claim the attention of the whole world. Turkey’s key role would strengthen the bridges between the EU and the Middle Eastern countries.

Europe’s current external and internal threats with regards to terrorism and immigration may be better resolved by Turkey’s active defense and security role. As far as energy security is concerned, Europe’s natural gas needs are more crucial than ever. Since Turkey is an energy corridor between Europe, Central Asia and the Middle East, it can strengthen the EU’s energy security significantly. Turkey is working very hard with its European partners on the Nabucco Project in orderto supply secure and reliable energy to Europe.

In summary, Turkey’s membership would support the EU’s enlargement policy by bringing peace with history, strengthening European Common Foreign and Security Policy and harmonizing various civilizations.

Despite the mutual benefits of Turkey’s membership to the EU, political obstacles have been slowing down Turkey’s EU membership process. If political obstacles are lifted, Turkey is ready to open 16 more chapters in addition to the 13 chapters which are already opened, and to close 12 more. All in all, on almost every possible account, the EU needs Turkey as much as, or even more than Turkey needs the EU, and both will be better off by Turkish accession.

Considering the current position of Turkey regionally and internationally, it is time for the Phoenician princess to unite Anatolia and Europe.

Topkapı Sarayı: From Palace to Museum

Fri, 08 Apr 2011 22:12:00 +0300

One of the world’s most fabulous palaces is undoubtedly the Topkapı Sarayı, the residential and administrative headquarters of the Ottoman Empire for four centuries. The palace, actually a small city covering an area of 499,000 square meters (about 173 acres), is organized around for consecutive courtyards, each serving a specific function and each comprising a conglomerate of gardens and pavilions, arcades and suites. The complex, situated in Sarayburnu (Seraglio Point) the most strategic and aesthetically pleasing hill of Istanbul, overlooks the Golden Horn, the Bosphorus and the Marmara Sea. It once had a staff of 20,000, including 5,000 permanent residents. Here the sultan and the Divan-i Hümayun (Imperial Council) discussed the administrative, judicial, social and cultural affairs of the state. The imperial edicts issued by the sultan were carried to the far corners of the empire, which at its height extended from the Caspian Sea to the heart of Europe and incorporated the entire Western Asia and much of Northern Africa.

Mehmed II, the conqueror of Istanbul, began work on the Topkapı Palace shortly after the conquest of the city in 1453. His first palace, the Eski Saray (Old Palace), was situated on the site later occupied by the Süleymaniye Mosque and the University of Istanbul. Mehmed II desired a larger and more efficient structure designed solely for administrative activities – a new palace that reflected the glory and power of the empire and commemorated the Ottoman conquest of Istanbul. The location selected for this new palace was the ancient acropolis an area also favored by the city’s Byzantine rulers.

The sultan himself supervised the design of the Topkapı Palace; actual construction occurred between 1459 and 1465. Yeni Saray (New Palace), as it was then called, was a massive fortress; a wall 1.400 meters long and interspersed with towers enclosed almost the entire Sarayburnu. One of the gates on the waterfront, the Topkapı (Cannon Gate), eventually gave its name to the entire complex.

Throughout its history, a number of units, pavilions and gardens were repaired, reconstructed and added to the complex. Consequently, the Topkapı Palace stands not only as a monumental city-palace, but also as the most remarkable collection of Ottoman residential architecture.

Mehmed II’s original plan included the first three courtyards; the Harem was added in the 16th and the fourth courtyard in the 17th century. Devastating fires, especially those of 1574, 1665 and 1865, destroyed many of the original buildings. The palace once extended to the water’s edge and was surrounded by gardens. The Gülhane Park now occupies a portion of this area.

The plan of the Topkapı Palace clearly reflects the structure of Mehmed II’s empire. The first courtyard functioned basically as the service area and contained support facilities; it was open to the public and included the outer treasury and arsenal with offices, storage rooms and dormitories for those serving the Birun (Outer Palace), but not residing in the palace proper.

The fortified Bab-ı Hümayun (Imperial Gate) provides access to the first courtyard. The gate’s second story was later demolished. An inscription over the portal states that it was built in 1478. Only two of the original buildings in the first courtyard survive: the Çinili Köşk (Tiled Pavilion), built in 1472 and restored in the late 16th century: and the Alay Köşkü (Procession Pavilion), completely refurbished in the 19th century.

The palace proper begins with the second courtyard, entered through the Bab üs-Selam (Gate of Salutations), also called the Orta Kapı (Middle Gate). Open only to those who had official business in the palace, it contained offices and facilities for the Birun, including the Divan-i Hümayun. Everyone, except the sultan had to dismount at the entrance and proceeded on foot.

The enormous kitchens to the right of the second courtyard consist of ten large chambers with domical chimneys, each serving different residents of the palace, such as the sultan, queen mothers, Harem personnel and ministers of the Divan-ı Hümayun. The famous architect Sinan designed these kitchens after the 1574 fire. The second courtyard also included mosques, storage rooms, and dormitories for the cooks and offices for the staff.

The chamber with eight domes on the far left of the courtyard housed the Hazine (Inner Treasury) of the Ottoman dynasty. Next to it stands a three-domed pavilion built by Süleyman the Magnificent in the middle of the 16th century. The first domed chamber, the Kubbealtı (literally "under the dome"), was the seat of the Divan-i Hümayun. Here thirteen members of the Imperial Council, presided by the sadrazam (grand vizer), met four times a week to discuss state affairs. The sultan, who was the head of the council, rarely sat in on the meetings. He would, however, observe the sessions from a room in the square tower above the Kubbealtı. This room was hidden from the council by a screened window so the ministers never knew when the sultan was listening to their discussions. The secretaries of the council who recorded the proceedings of the meetings used the second domed chamber. The third chamber was assigned to the sadrazam. Under the tower of the Kubbealtı is one of the entrances to the Harem, called the Araba Kapısı (Carriage Door). The area on the far left was reserved for the Has Ahır (Imperial Stables), the Raht Hazinesi (Harness Treasury), and chambers for the Imrahor (Master of the Stables) and offices for the other court attendants.

Records indicate on a normal day 5,000 imperial guards and janissaries filled the courtyard. During religious holidays and when foreign ambassadors presented their credentials to the sultan, this figure doubled. And yet there was absolute silence in the courtyard with thousands of people quietly going about their business and observing imperial protocol.

At the end of the second courtyard is an impressive gate, the Bab üs-Saadet (Gate of Felicity), also called the Ak Ağalar Kapısı (Gate of the White Eunuchs). The sultan sat in front of this gate during accession ceremonies and religious holidays, receiving the foremostmembers of the state. The Bab üs-Saadet leads into the third courtyard, the inner palace reserved for the Enderun (Palace School), which trained civil service personnel under the supervision of the Ak Ağas (White Eunuchs).

Upon entering the third courtyard, one first encounters the Arz Odası (Throne Room) where the sultan received foreign ambassadors and the sadrazam reported to him the activities of the Imperial Council. This building, dating from the reign of Mehmed II, was restored in the 19th century. The Library of Ahmed III erected in 1719 stands behind the Arz Odası. It replaced the pool which originally stood in the center of the courtyard.

The chambers on the right included the Enderun classrooms and dormitories together with the Pavilion of Mehmed II, popularly called the Hazine (Imperial Treasury). Other buildings of the courtyard served various functions of the Palace School and contained residential units for the White Eunuchs. The Hırka-i Saadet (Pavilion of the Holy Mantle), one of the most important structures, occupies the far left of the courtyard. It contained holy artifacts brought from Egypt by Selim I in 1517 and housed the mantle, standard and bow of the Prophet Muhammed as well as the swords of the four orthodox caliphs. The Ağalar Camii (Mosque of the Ağas) and the second entrance to the Harem, the Kuşhane Kapısı (Birdcage Door), stand to the left of the pavilion.

The fourth courtyard of the palace does not have a formal entrance; it was designed as a garden built on several levels and comprises a number of pavilions, terraces and pools. It can be entered from the veranda behind the Hırka-i Saadet as well as through passages between the buildings. On the left, facing a pool, is the famous Revan Köşkü, built in 1636 by Murad IV to commemorate the conquest of Revan (Erivan) in the Caucasus. Beyond the pool a marble terrace overlooks the Golden Horn. This terrace is flanked by the Sünnet Odası (Circumcision Room) built in 1641 and the Bağdad Köşkü erected in 1639 by Murad IV after the conquest of Baghdad. In the center of the terrace the Iftariye, a baldachin with a golden dome, dates from the middle of the 17th century.

Below this terrace, tulip gardens surround an 18th century pavilion built during the reign of Ahmed III, popularly called the Sofa Köşkü. At the edge of the complex, the Mecidiye Köşkü, built by Abdülmecid in the 1840s, is the last addition to the palace.

The celebrated Harem occupies the gigantic area on the far left of the second and third courtyard. It contains over three hundred units comprised of apartments, libraries, dining rooms, reception halls, dormitories, classrooms, baths, infirmaries, and laundries. These units are separated by courtyards, gardens and pools. The Harem, which literally means a private or sacred place, was guarded by the Kara Ağas (Black Eunuchs). It served as the residence of the sultan and his family and as the location where the princes received their early education.

The Harem, constructed on several levels, was not a part of the original palace but was added in the second half of the 16th century. During the reign of Mehmed II and his immediate followers, the Eski Saray remained in use for private and domestic affairs. The first Ottoman sultan to move his family into the Topkapı Palace was Süleyman the Magnificent and after the middle of the 16th century, it became customary for the wives and children of the sultans to reside there.

The Ottoman sultans were avid collectors and enthusiastic patrons of the arts. Their collections, which included Asian and European objects in addition to Ottoman works, were carefully registered and kept in the palace. Thus, the Topkapı Palace contains a wealth of manuscripts, arms and armor, kaftans and embroideries, glass and porcelain, and the entire contents of the fabulous treasury filled with objects fashioned in gold and other precious materials.

It was on the founder of the Turkish Republic’s Mustafa Kemal Atatürk’s instructions that the Topkapı Palace and its magnificent collections were opened to the public. On April 3, 1924, a few months after the proclamation of the Republic, the palace became a museum. Atatürk is known to have twice visited the Museum. In 1927, he inspected the Hırka-i Saadet collection and looked at the Prophet’s mantle and standard. The following year he toured the buildings in the Sultan Ahmed Square before visiting the Mecidiye Köşkü. At this time, numerous objects had arrived from other imperial palaces and awaited cataloguing. The portraits of the sultans, collected by Abdülhamid in the Yıldız Palace, had just been deposited in one of the suites of the Mecidiye Köşkü. Atatürk asked to see these paintings, spent some time studying them, and requested that they be put on display.

The immense task of sorting, classifying and restoring tens of thousands of items took years. Sections of the palace opened as soon as the cataloguing of a group of objects was completed and exhibition galleries were ready. The Çinili Köşk now housing Turkish ceramics and tiles, opened in 1953, on the 500th anniversary of the conquest of Istanbul; the Library of Ahmed II and portions of the Harem were ready in 1971; and the restorations of the Arz Odası were completed in 1972.

A number of other units were later renovated and opened to the public, including the Kubbealtı and Has Ahır. Today, the visitor can pass through the Bab üs-Selam and see temporary exhibitions in the chambers adjacent to the gate. The Imperial Kitchens house the world-renowned Chinese porcelain collection, which numbers over 10,000 items, spanning from the Yüan to the Ching periods; Japanese and European ceramics are also on display in this section. At the end of the kitchens is the Istanbul glass and porcelain collection dating from the 19th and 20th centuries.

The wealth of Ottoman arms and armor, supplemented by weapons of other Islamic dynasties, is on view in the former Hazine. The Kubbealtı remains as it was in the 16th century with its austere and majestic architectural decoration.

Beyond the Bab üs-Saadet one can visit the Arz Odası and the Library of Ahmed III. The pavilions along the courtyard display the kaftans of the sultans, embroideries and the almost legendary objects from the Hazine.

One of the former dormitories of the Enderun contain illustrated manuscripts and portraits of the sultans while another houses Korans and samples of illumination and exquisite calligraphy. The Ağalar Camii has been converted into a modern library, bringing together various imperial collections with hundreds of Turkish, Persian and Arabic manuscripts as well as a selection of texts written in Greek, Armenian and Slavonic, illustrated with close to 14,000 paintings. The most impressive manscripts are illustrated histories of the sultans produced during their lifetime. They contain detailed representations of the Topkapı Palace and portray specific personages, enabling us to recreate the history of the Ottoman Empire and the spectacular city-palace of the sultans. The fourth courtyard with its terraces, gardens, pools and pavilions has been renovated and appears as it did in the 17th and 18th centuries. The Mecidiye Köşkü is now a restaurant with a magnificent view of the Golden Horn, the Bosphorus and the Marmara Sea.

The Topkapı Palace, the first public museum of the Republic, is a living collection of centuries of Ottoman domestic architecture and artisticproduction and the most vivid testament of Atatürk’s interest in the preservation of the Turkish cultural heritage.

Originally Published in The Guide Istanbul September/October 2002

Shop at the The Egyptian Bazaar

Tue, 29 Mar 2011 00:01:00 +0300

A bit of history…

The Egyptian Bazaar, a.k.a The Spice Bazaar and Mısır Çarşısıin Turkish is one of the oldest bazaars in the city – second only to the Grand Bazaar or Kapalıçarşı. Due to the fact that many spices were imported from Egypt during the Ottoman period, the name Mısır Çarşısı was favored by the public. On occasion, the name has been incorrectly translated as “Corn Bazaar” as the word mısır in Turkish means both Egypt and corn. The Egyptian Bazaar was and still is the center for Istanbul’s rich spice trade.

Designed by Koca Kasım Ağa, the chief Ottoman court architect, it was later completed by architect Mustafa in 1660. The building itself is part of the complex of the New Mosque (Yeni Cami), with the rents collected from the shops originally intended to help pay for the upkeep of the Mosque.

The location…

Located to the right at the southern end of the Galata Bridge on the Golden Horn in the Eminönü district, it is located next to the New Mosque (Yeni Cami).

The complex…

The market is L-shaped, 5,000 square meters in size, with six entrances and approximately 100 shops.

The shops…

Spices, dried fruits, nuts and seeds, tea, coffee, lokum (Turkish Delights) along with other edibles (deli meats, cheese, caviar, etc.) fill most of the shops, although jewelry, clothing, handbags, souvenirs and other high-end goods are also available.

Some recommendatıons…

Arifoğlu was established in 1944. The repertoire of products includes spices, medicinal herbs and shampoos, oils (avocado, bitter almond, jojoba, rosemary, etc.), tea and honey among others.

Galeri Set is a gift shop selling handmade replicas of objects (cups, trays, bowls, etc.) from the Ottoman period (16^th to 19^th century) using the original gold leaf and colors of the period. The Ottoman-style handcrafted Turkish coffee cups are especially beautiful.

Güllüoğlu was established in Gaziantep in 1871 and is a major purveyor of baklava, but also carries a variety of other desserts (milk puddings, halvah, etc.). The Güllüoğlu brand is independently managed by three brothers and the branch at the Egyptian Bazaar is not affiliated with the branch in Karaköy. A wide selection of baklava (plain, nuts, carrot, etc.) is available but the favorite here is the chestnut (kestane)baklava.

Malatya Pazarı was founded in Malatya in 1932 and carries dried fruit, nut, herbs, spices and regional delicacies (carob, oleaster, mulberry paste) among others.

Sufi Art carries a very nice selection of high quality jewelry, artwork, porcelain and more crafted by a variety of Turkish designers, and includes Özlem Tuna’s Turkish coffee cups and trays.

The vendors…

The majority of the shopkeepers and their staff can converse with you in almost any language you can think of! Besides English, most can speak French, Russian, Italian and Spanish. Don’t forget, bargaining is ‘par for the course’ at most shops!

The neighbors…

When you enter from the main entrance and make your first right at the end of the street next to Malatya Pazarı to exit, the smell of freshly ground Turkish coffee wafting from Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi greets you. As you head right back towards the main square, both sides of the one-block street are covered with cheese shops, fishmongers and butchers. Open since 1901, Pandeli is a landmark and specializes in Turkish and Greek cuisine. Steps from the market is the 20-plus year-old Hamdi Steak House. The 3-story eatery specializes in meats and kebabs and has a lovely view of the Haliç Bay.

Sweets & Treats

Mon, 28 Mar 2011 23:46:00 +0300

Lokum (Turkish Delight)

Lokum (Turkish Delight) can be found all over the world, but often bearing little resemblance to its original version that is found in Turkey. Lokum contains a variety of nuts, such as walnuts, almonds, and pistachios, and comes in various flavors, ranging from rose and strawberry to lemon and orange. To enjoy original Turkish Delights, purchase a box from the traditional Ali Muhiddin Hacı Bekir Confectioners.

Baklava

A traditional Turkish dessert made with layers of filo pastry, chopped nuts, sweetened with syrup, and cut into cubes. Baklava comes in a variety of fillings, such as pistachio, chocolate (specialty of Güllüoğlu in the Egyptian Bazaar), chestnut, and kaymak (with clotted cream, a specialty of Güllüoğlu in Karaköy).

Helva

Made from tahin (sesame paste), sugar, and nut butter, this is particularly good after a meal of fish or seafood. This crumbly sweet has a very particular, delicate texture and immediately melts in the mouth. When heated, helva’s main ingredient tahin creates a perfect mixture with pekmez (molasses-like syrup); the mixture is called tahin pekmez, best enjoyed during breakfast with bread.

Cevizli Beypazarı Sucuk

Shaped like a sausage, Cevizli Beypazarı Sucuk, a specialty of Ankara, is a sticky and chewy sweet snack made of walnuts and fruits.

Pikola Sucuk

A specialty coming from Gümüşhane in the Black Sea region, this version of sweet ‘sausage’ is prepared with a mixture of fermented grape and walnuts.

Akide Şekeri

This is a very popular kind of hard candy available in a wide range of flavors and colors. It was traditionally made with unrefined sugar and, hence, it used to be slightly opaque; however, now it is made to be either opaque or clear, depending on how the syrup mixture is prepared. Traditionally served in the Ottoman Empire to the janissaries during a ceremony that signified their loyalty to and appreciation of the Sultan, this sweet has been around for a while for good reason.

Badem Ezmesi

This Turkish variant of marzipan originally came from Persia, and was created by pharmacists who thought the sweet had healing properties. This is debatable, considering its sugar content, but a nice white lie to buy into. For the best marzipans, go to Meşhur Bebek Badem Ezmesi.

Kuruyemiş

Turks are very into nuts—pistachios, hazelnuts, walnuts, almonds, seeds of every kind, and even chickpeas come roasted, plain, or spiced. They can be found in huge quantities and varieties in the Spice (Egyptian) Bazaar, in any grocer, or kuruyemişçi (little shops spread around town that mostly sell dried fruits and nuts).

Kestane Şekeri

Kestane şekeri (chestnuts coated and cooked in sweet syrup) is a particular Turkish delicacy, with the chestnuts coming from the Black Sea region, famed for their great size. A chocolate-coated version is also available and definitely a favorite! The Divan Pastry shops in Bebek and Erenköy are good places to get kestane şekeri. Another place to try kestane şekeri is Kafkas, which specializes in kestane şekeri products. (Kafkas products can be found in their own stores as well as in many grocers.)

Witnesses of History

Sun, 27 Mar 2011 17:02:00 +0200

Kapalı Çarşı (The Grand Bazaar)

The Grand Bazaar is 30,700 square meters with over 60 streets and alleys and 4,000 shops. It was completed in the 15th century after Sultan Mehmet II conquered Istanbul. The bazaar’s two main entrances are Beyazıt and Nuruosmaniye. Shops sell a wide range of products, including jewelry, carpets, leather, ceramics, copper & brass, hand-woven textiles, and much much more! There are several nice cafés and restaurants where you can take a break from shopping.

Address: Beyazıt Meydanı, Beyazıt

Phone: (0212) 522 31 73; (0212) 519 12 48

Open: Monday – Saturday, 8:30am – 7:00pm;Sunday, closed

*The bazaar is closed on 29 October (Republic Day) and the first days of Ramadan (Ramazan Bayramı) and Sacrifice Feast (Kurban Bayramı) holidays.

Dolmabahçe Sarayı (Dolmabahçe Palace)

This magnificent palace served as the Ottoman’s administrative center and Sultan’s residence from 1856 to 1922. It was built when Abdülmecid I decided that Topkapı Palace was a little passé and what he needed was a more European, state of the art residence. There are Baroque, Rococo, and Neoclassical influences strongly evident in the design of the palace.

Address: Dolmabahçe Caddesi, Beşiktaş

Phone: (0212) 236 90 00

Open: Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday, Saturday, Sunday, 9:00am – 4:00pm;Monday and Thursday, closed

Topkapı Sarayı (Topkapı Palace)

The first and most famous of the Ottoman Sultans’ residences and administrative centers, Topkapı was built in 1478 and was in use for approximately 400 years of the 624 years of Ottoman rule. The palace is now open for public viewing and contains Islamic relics, such as the cloak of the Prophet and, as such, is something of a place of pilgrimage, although most visitors are just as interested in the magnificent architecture and the Haremlik (Women’s Quarters), which are definitely worth the extra admission fee. Set aside at least half a day for a full tour.

Address: Sultanahmet

Phone: (0212) 512 04 80

Open: Wednesday – Monday, 9:00am – 5:00pm;Tuesday, closed

Yerebatan Sarnıcı (Basilica Cistern)

The largest and most famous of the many underground cisterns in Istanbul, the Basilica Cistern was built in the 6th century under the Byzantine Emperor Justinian the Great. The cistern is the size of a cathedral, holding 80,000 cubic meters of water and is reached by descending 52 stairs. The most remarkable features are the two giant Medusa heads, which serve as column bases. One of the heads is upside down and the other rotated on its side; some believe that this type of positioning of the Medusa heads was meant to negate the power of the Medusa’s deadly stare.

Address: Yerebatan Caddesi No.13, Sultanahmet

Phone: (0212) 522 12 59

Open: Monday – Sunday, 9:00am – 6:00pm

Mısır Çarşısı (Egyptian or Spice Bazaar)

Built in 1660, the Egyptian Bazaar is the second largest bazaar in Istanbul after the Grand Bazaar and is almost as overwhelming, with an extraordinary array of spices, sweets, dried fruits and nuts, teas and coffees and, bizarrely, aphrodisiac mixtures. The bazaar was called the Egyptian Bazaar because most of the imported spices came from Egypt during the Ottoman period.

Address: Eminönü Meydanı,Eminönü

Open: Monday – Saturday, 8:30am – 6:30pm;Sunday, closed

Galata Kulesi (Galata Tower)

Built in 1348 on the peak of the city walls around the Genoese colony, the Galata Tower is one of Istanbul’s most striking landmarks. The top section of the tower has been demolished on numerous occasions during fires, earthquakes, and storms. The existing top section was built in 1967. In the past, the tower was used as a warehouse for a shipyard, a prison, and a fire tower. Today, the 12-story structure is a tourist site that affords a wonderful panoramic view of the city, both across the Golden Horn and up the Bosphorus. On a clear day you can see as far as the Princes’ Islands, and the tower also has a café and restaurant where you can enjoy the view over a meal or Turkish coffee. The tower is located in the central, artsy area of Galata, which is worth a trip in itself, and easily reached from Taksim and the base of the Galata Bridge.

Address: Galata Kulesi Sokak, Şişhane

Phone: (0212) 293 81 80

Open: Monday – Sunday, 9:00am – 8:00pm

Haydarpaşa Tren Garı (Haydarpaşa Railway Station)

Located on the Asian side of the city, the Haydarpaşa Railway Station is a major hub of transport in Istanbul, and is indeed the largest and busiest rail terminal in the Middle East. The main building was constructed in 1906 and it is an imposing edifice, and a familiar sight on the Asian waterfront of the Bosphorus. Having survived a fire in 1917, the station has been extensively restored and has regained its Orient-Express-era charm with its stained glass, wood paneling, and gigantic chandeliers.

Address: Rasimpaşa Mahallesi, Kadıköy

Phone: (0216) 336 20 63;(0216) 336 04 75

Take a Trip up the Bosphorus and the Golden Horn

Sun, 27 Mar 2011 16:54:00 +0200

Istanbul is the world’s only city situated on two continents and it is only right and proper that this be fully appreciated. Taking a boat up the Bosphorus is an inexpensive way of seeing some of the main sights of both sides of the city and enjoying the beautiful views across the water. Highlights include the Ortaköy Mosque, the twin fortresses of Rumeli Hisarı (built by Mehmet II in 1461)and Anadolu Hisarı (built by Beyazıt I in 1394), Kuleli Askeri Lisesi (an imposing military academy on the Asian side), the two bridges connecting Asia and Europe, and the splendid Ottoman mansions flanking both shores further up the Bosphorus.

IDO (Istanbul Deniz Otobüsleri/Istanbul Sea Buses & Fast Ferries Co. Inc.) offers two types of tours to discover the Bosphorus: the Full Bosphorus Tour and the Short Circle Bosphorus Tour. The Full Bosphorus Tour, which lasts approximately six hours, departs from Eminönü going all the way to the tip of the Black Sea. You can get on or off the ferry at various stops along the way to explore sights of interest in detail. The Short Circle Tour, which lasts approximately two hours, departs from Eminönü and goes as far as Istinye on the European side and Çubuklu on the Asian side before turning back. (Visit www.ido.com.tr/en/ for departure times and fares.)

For a more luxurious option, rent one of Plan Tours’ yachts for a private lunch or dinner cruise. For a truly unique experience, cruise and dine on the elegantly-decorated, 33-meter wooden yacht Süreyya V.

For a sultanesque experience, explore the Bosphorus with Sultan Kayıkları (Sultan’s Boats), replicas of Ottoman-style boats that Sultans used to travel with. Powered by 12 rowers, these 31-meter-long boats are made of woodwork, golden embellishments, and feature imperial sofas covered with rich, red fabrics. You can choose to have a private tour or join a scheduled one up the Bosphorus and the Golden Horn.

Street Food

Sun, 27 Mar 2011 16:33:00 +0200

Istanbulites are spoiled for choice when it comes to street food: depending on the season, you can find roast corn, chestnuts, all kinds of fruit (and fruit juice), plus the ever-available fish sandwiches, mussels, simit, pilav, and döner kebabs. Street food in Istanbul is tasty and budget-friendly too...what's not to like about it?

Simit

The equivalent of bagel for Americans, simit is the morning snack for the Turk on the go, a ring of crusty bread covered in sesame seeds. Warm and fresh, you can buy it from the sellers on the street or bakeries all around the city. A good simit is crusty but soft in the middle, and it is best bought first thing in the morning, as fresh as possible.

Döner Dürüm

Famous the world over thanks to the ubiquity of kebab vendors, a good döner dürüm is delicious and perfect on a night out when hunger hits. Döner Dürüm is roasted lamb or chicken wrapped with tomatoes, French fries, and hot pickled peppers in a very thin bread known as dürüm (similar to tortilla). Sold at numerous büfes (Turkish fast-food restaurants) around the city, döner dürüm is a quick yet delicious meal best complimented with ayran.

Balık Ekmek (Grilled fish sandwich)

One of the cheapest and most delicious meals on offer in Istanbul, the best balık ekmek is available from the street vendors by the Galata Bridge. You will get a freshly caught, chargrilled fish slapped between two pieces of bread with some tomato and salad—cheap and definitely worth a saunter down the Golden Horn.

Midye Dolması (Stuffed Mussels)

This is for the more adventurous traveler—mussels stuffed with rice, pine nuts, onions, currants, and herbs. You can get them from sellers on the street or if you want to play it safe, buy it from one of the little shops in Balık Pazarı (Fish Bazaar) on Istiklal Caddesi.

Işkembe

Not for the squeamish (or, arguably, sober), this is soup made from tripe, butter, vinegar, and garlic, and is the meal of choice at the end of a night of hard partying.

Islak Hamburger

Another tipsy choice, this translates as ‘wet’ hamburger as it’s dipped in tomato sauce. This small burger is steamed for hours and the result is a very moist and succulent snack, noticeably more appetizing in the early hours of the morning. The discerning reveler’s choice of vendor is Kızılkayalar, although anywhere will undoubtedly do!

Nohutlu Pilav (Rice with Chickpeas)

Sold in carts by the side of the road and mainly bought by drivers on a stop-off, this is a warm, nourishing, and inexpensive snack.

Kokoreç (Lamb intestines)

In the same category as tripe soup, this is definitely not for the squeamish. Kokoreç is a Turkish sandwich made of tiny pieces of spiced and fried lamb or sheep intestines.

It is another delicacy that appeals more to the late night reveler, but it is very popular and definitely worth trying if only to see what the fuss is about. In fact, try it while you can because under upcoming EU integration laws, kokoreç will officially be a no-no.

Roasted Chestnuts

These are probably the most common street snack, with a vendor to be found every kilometer or so in central Istanbul. Simple and delicious, these are served hot in a little paper bag for a couple of liras, and are great on a wintry afternoon.

The Evil Eye

Sun, 27 Mar 2011 16:25:00 +0200

The belief in the powers of the "nazar boncuk" or "evil eye bead" is found throughout the Mediterranean and Aegean, spreading from Turkey as Far East as the Turkic Republics. No one really knows how, but the cult of the blue beads spread even to Britain—to Ireland to be precise. Irish farmers are known to hang a blue ball or "Droch-shuil" above their barn doors to protect their animals from the envious glances of their neighbors. The Turkish "nazar boncuk" is known by many names around the world: the Romans called it the "Malus", the Greeks "Baskania", the Italians "Mallochio", the Spanish "Mal Ojo" and it is "Ayin Hara" in Hebrew. In fact, it can be found as far away as Mexico, where it is called the "Ojo de Vanado".

The Turkish word "nazar" actually derives from the Arabic for "eye" or "look". That seems innocuous enough, but this kind of "eye" or "look" is rather dangerous. Millions of people around the world believe that the "evil eye" can cast a kind of spell on the object of its gaze: a healthy person can fall ill or a much-admired crystal vase can fall and break into a thousand pieces or your brand new car break down at the first red light. Well, in that case, you would only have yourself to blame—if you had hung a "mavi boncuk" (blue bead) from your exhaust pipe or rear view mirror, this would never have happened! No one knows if such talismans really work, or how they work if they do. But people continue to believe. Scientists are fascinated by the psychological power of the "nazar boncuk" and it has recently become a popular field of research.

But where and how are these mighty blue beads produced? Bear in mind that the premise for the belief is that evil intentions are somehow conveyed by the eyes. In that case, it seems only natural to believe that such looks can be repelled by the gaze of another eye. This "other eye" is the "nazar boncuk", often wrongly known in English as an "evil eye" since it is actually a "benevolent eye" warding off evil.

In the past, these talismans were originally made of clay globes painted with natural dyes. Later, they were made from ceramic. The production of glass "nazar boncuks" spread from Mesopotamia to Syria, before crossing the border into Anatolia. The first Anatolian glass "nazar boncuks" were made around the cities of Bodrum and Izmir in the Mediterranean and Aegean respectively. Sadly, interest in the art has waned and cheaper materials, like plastic, are usually used instead of glass. Today, only a few workshops in the village of Cumaovası, Görece near Izmir and a few in Bodrum still function in the traditional way.

These workshops fire the glass beads and in very primitive surroundings in underground kilns made of bricks and mud. The glassmakers remove the melted glass from the oven using an iron rod and then shape it on an anvil using other tools. Then, drops of molten glass in other colors (white and black over the blue) are placed on top of the main piece and stuck onto it. The whole piece is then rolled and then pressed flat with an iron. Finally, it is placed in a section of the kiln and allowed to cool.

Perhaps it is this very process that gives these glass talismans their powers: the incredible heat that melts the glass and the tremendous effort that goes into shaping them. Or perhaps it lies deeper, in the mysteries of nature that mankind is still unable to solve after thousands of years.

Compiled from The Guide Istanbul May/June 2002

Galata: Istanbul’s Fashion Incubator

Sat, 19 Mar 2011 23:53:00 +0200

Locatedin the greater Beyoğlu district, the funky Galata neighborhood has rapidly emerged as the place for young Turkish designers to open shop. Galata is now frequently called the ‘Soho of Istanbul’, thanks to this swift gentrification process. However, one look at this district’s winding streets and crumbling urban decay will tell you that this neighborhood has far more character than its supposed New York City counterpart. When visiting Galata today, you will see a part of town that is at its most exciting point of development. The rents are still low enough so that young, up-and-coming designers and local artists can afford to open boutiques, but the scene is developed enough that there is a real buzz in the air, with many talented young designers showcasing their work.

Galata was first settled during the Byzantine period, and, in the 13th century, the Genoese established a colony that was called Galata. At one time, this mini port city had one of the busiest harbors in all of Europe, and was a center for banking and commerce. Over the years, the area became home to a large non-Muslim population, with many Italians, Greeks, and Jews living here. During the 19th century, the area was also known as ‘Pera’, named after the main street, which was then called the ‘Grand Rue du Pera’. Beyoğlu was the city’s most refined district at this time, with many Europeans residing here, giving it a very cosmopolitan air. In fact, the name Beyoğlu comes from ‘Bey Yolu’, which means ‘Gentlemen’s Street’.

After the Turkish Republic was established in 1923, the greater Beyoğlu area suffered a social setback as the embassies moved to Ankara, and many of the area’s minorities began to leave. During this time, the ‘Rue du Pera’ was renamed ‘Istiklal Caddesi’, meaning ‘Freedom Street’. Due to political reasons during the 1950s and 1960s, most of the remaining minorities left, and the area attracted poor rural migrants, as Beyoğlu entered a period of further decline. Over the ensuing decades, Beyoğlu became increasingly dilapidated and gained a rather unsavory reputation.

However, this all began to change in the 90s as the area began to pick up again, helped in large part by Istiklal Caddesi being turned into a pedestrian- only zone. The charming red and white nostalgic tram, that runs up Istiklal Street was restored, and Beyoğlu began fighting hard to regain its former glory. All of this hard work has paid off, and Beyoğlu is once again a thriving commercial and cultural center, the heart of the modern city.

Galata Tower remains the district’s most iconic structure. Built by the Genoese in 1348, this structure has served many purposes, including a fire tower and prison. Demolished on several occasions due to fires and earthquakes, the current top section was rebuilt in 1967 and the tower is now a major tourist attraction, displaying a panoramic view of the city.

While many retail chains have started to open shops on Istiklal Caddesi, giving the area a more commercial feel, Galata is dominated by small independent shops and up and coming young designers. Until just recently, Galata was an area in decay but now it is one of the city’s most dynamic districts, as the influx of young designers and artists have helped to breathe new life into the area.

As you walk down to Galata, out of the Şişhane Metro’s tunnel exit down Şahkulu Bostan Caddesi, you will pass the imposing façade of the German School. The first shop you will see is a rather cool looking boutique, Simay Bülbül. Known for her award- winning leather designs, Simay Bülbül opened her showroom here in early 2010. Working with a range of fabrics, including jerseys and silks, almost every piece has some kind of leather detailing, creating a thoroughly modern aesthetic. Simay Bülbül’s unique designs are an edgy take on traditional Turkish leather, and these designs have become a favorite with many celebrities.

When you turn the corner, you find yourself on Serdar-ı Ekrem Caddesi, where the majority of the new boutiques have opened. This street is also home to one of the most well-known buildings in this district, the Doğan Apartment. Originally built in 1895 by a family of Belgian bankers, the present-day yellow ochre building has been beautifully restored.

On one end of Serdar-ı Ekrem Caddesi, you will find Atelier 55, a concept store selling everything from clothing and jewelry, to accessories and hand-painted cushions. Carrying a range of creations by both Turkish and international designers, everything in the store, including all the furniture and paintings, is for sale. There is also a small Espresso Bar at the back, in case you need a quick coffee break. Further down the street, heading towards the Galata Tower, you will find Aida Pekin, a local jewelry designer, who creates simple pieces in whimsical, childlike designs working with silver, gold and felt. Be sure to check out the

Istanbul collection inspired by the city’s architecture. Next, we find Sır Cini, one of the oldest shops on the street, selling traditional Turkish ceramics with a twist. With a ceramics studio at the back, owner Sadullah Çekmece creates original designs, including ceramic boxes with hand drawn pictures and textured wall tiles in modern designs.

A newcomer to the area, Tuba Benian just opened their boutique in early 2011. This store features tailored, lady-like clothing as well as many leather and equestrian-themed clothing items. Lilipud Boutique carries a range of retro-style dresses and also produces their own jewelry in a small workshop downstairs. A little further down the street, we find Arzu Kaprol’s thoroughly modern namesake boutique. A darling of the Turkish media, Kaprol’s designs include both couture and prêt-à- porter lines, and are sold in Turkey and abroad. Her clothes are very fashion- forward, using texture and pleating to create highly sculptural pieces.

Right across the street, you’ll find Lunapark Shop, a unique store that specializes in nostalgic Turkish items. Opened in late 2010, the store’s current concept is ‘Turkish Very Much’ as it carries both contemporary designs from many of Turkey’s leading designers as well as nostalgic products, which will be familiar to anyone who grew up in Turkey in the 1980s. Bahar Korçan is another well-established designer that has set up shop in this area. A leader in Turkey’s fashion industry, Korcan designs quirky, colorful clothing in a wide range of fabrics, often using layers of gauze to create a sense of whimsy. Meanwhile, Laundromat is a cool boutique designed as a platform for young Turkish artists. Here, you can find clothing and jewelry from many of the city’s up-and-coming designers.

If you wander past the Galata Tower, you will eventually find your way to this area’s other main shopping street Camekan, which is considerably smaller, but still has several noteworthy shops. Among them is Museum of Fine Clothing; a small shop carrying a range of sharply tailored women’s wear in dark and neutral colors. On this street, you will also find Lastik Pabuç, a funky store carrying clothing and a wide range of hard-to-find running shoes, catering to the area’s young hipster crowd. Paristexas carries clothes from many international designers, including Marc Jacobs, MiuMiu, and Chloé, as well as several cool, hard-to-find Japanese brands and custom-made leather bags.

Finally, just off of Tünel Square, you will find Doors by Ümit Ünal. One of Turkey’s best-known, cutting-edge designers, Ünal’s clothes are often designed to tell a story. Drawing inspiration from his travels and many diverse cultures, he often works with natural fabrics. Having achieved considerable success in his home country, many of Ünal’s designs are also sold internationally.

Undoubtedly, Galata is still very rough around the edges, but this is a considerable part of its charm. Despite its rapid transformation into one of Istanbul’s coolest neighborhoods, it has still managed to retain its original character.

Museums

Thu, 17 Mar 2011 00:37:00 +0200

Aya Sofya (Hagia Sophia)

Close to the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia is a remarkable structure with a patchwork history. It was originally built as an Orthodox patriarchal basilica in the 5th century AD. It was taken over by the Ottomans upon their capture of Istanbul (then called Constantinople) in 1453 and converted into a mosque. Finally, it was converted into a museum by the Republic of Turkey in 1935. The museum now contains holy relics and extraordinary examples of iconography. Definitely a must see for anyone remotely interested in history.

Address: Alemdar Caddesi, Sultanahmet

Phone: (0212) 522 17 50 – 522 09 89

Open: Tuesday – Sunday, 9:00am – 4:30pm; Monday, closed

Büyük Saray Mozaikleri Müzesi (The Great Palace Mosaic Museum)

This museum is situated just off Sultanahmet Square and houses the mosaics uncovered from the remains of the Great Palace of Constantinople, which was redone during the reign of Byzantine emperor Justinian I in around 550. The museum is situated near the site itself, and the mosaics, which formed the peristyle courtyard, are reproduced in the form that they would have appeared in the courtyard.

Address: Arasta Çarşısı, Sultanahmet

Phone: (0212) 518 12 05

Open: Tuesday – Sunday, 9:00am – 4:30pm; Monday, closed

Pera Müzesi (The Pera Museum)

Founded in 2005 by the Suna and Inan Kıraç Foundation, the museum is housed in the former Bristol Hotel, which was constructed in 1893. The museum has three permanent collections: Orientalist Painting, Kütahya Tiles and Ceramics, and Anatolian Weights and Measures, although most visitors come for the excellent temporary exhibitions, which have included Botero and Kahlo-Diego in the past. The Orientalist Painting exhibition, which features Osman Hamdi’s “The Tortoise Trainer”, is the most famous permanent exhibition.

Address: Meşrutiyet Caddesi No.65, Tepebaşı

Phone: (0212) 334 99 00

Open: Tuesday – Saturday, 10:00am – 7:00pm; Sunday, 12:00pm – 6:00pm; Monday, closed

*The museum is closed on New Year’s Day and the first days of Ramadan (Ramazan Bayramı) and Sacrifice Feast (Kurban Bayramı) holidays.

Arkeoloji Müzesi (The Archeological Museum)

Located near the Topkapı Palace, on what used to be the grounds of the outer parks of the palace,The Archeological Museum was founded in 1891.The museum includes sculptures from the Ancient Age, artifacts from various ages that were excavated in Istanbul, and much more. One of the most famous pieces of the museum is a sarcophagus that is believed to have been prepared for Alexander the Great.

Address: Istanbul Arkeoloji Müzeleri Alemdar Cad. Osman Hamdi Bey Yokuşu Sk, Sultanahmet

Phone: (0212) 520 77 40 - 41

Open: Tuesday – Sunday, 9:00am – 5:00pm; Monday, closed

*Hours of Ticket Sale: 9:00am – 4:00pm

Istanbul Modern Sanat Müzesi (Istanbul Museum of Modern Art)

Founded in 2004 in a converted warehouse in Tophane by the Bosphorus, the museum is the first of its kind in Istanbul, and mainly features the works of up-and-coming Turkish artists. It has a permanent exhibition and a restaurant on the top floor, and several temporary exhibitions housed on the ground floor. In the past, the temporary exhibitions have included solo and group exhibitions (for example, “Armenian Architects of Istanbul”) as well as conceptually-themed exhibitions.

Address: Meclis-i Mebusan Cad. Liman Işletmeleri Sahası Antrepo No:4, Karaköy

Phone: (0212) 334 73 00

Open: Tuesday – Sunday, 10.00am – 6.00pm; Thursday, 10.00am – 8.00pm; Monday, closed

*The Museum is closed on New Year’s Day and on the first day of religious holidays.

Türk ve Islam Eserleri Müzesi (Turkish and Islamic Arts Museum)

Built in 1524, the museum is housed in the former palace of Ibrahim Paşa, the grand vizier to Süleyman the Magnificent. The museum exhibits various examples of Islamic calligraphy, tiles and rugs, as well as ethnographic displays, including recreated rooms of Turkic groups and displays of nomadic artifacts.

Address: At Meydanı No. 46, Sultanahmet Kızılay Meydanı Parkı, Küçük Piyale MhKızılay Meydanı Parkı, Küçük Piyale Mh

Phone: (0212) 518 18 05

Open: Tuesday – Sunday, 9:30am – 4:30pm; Monday, closed

Sabancı Üniversitesi Sakıp Sabancı Müzesi (The Sabancı University Sakıp Sabancı Museum)

This world famous museum, housed in an old Ottoman mansion, used to be the private summer house of the Sabancı family until it was converted into a museum in 2002. It is most famous for its temporary exhibitions, which included the works of Picasso, Dali, and Rubin. The permanent exhibitions include examples of Islamic art, especially calligraphic, and old state and religious documents from the Ottoman Empire, as well as porcelain, furniture, and artworks from further afield.

Address: Sakıp Sabancı Cad. No: 42, Emirgan

Phone: (0212) 277 22 00

Open: Tuesday, Thursday, Friday, Saturday,and Sunday, 10:00am – 06:00pm; Wednesday, 10:00am – 8:00pm; Monday, closed.

*The last tickets are sold30 minutesprior to the museum’s closing time.

**The museum is closed on New Year’s Day and the first days of Ramadan (Ramazan Bayramı) and Sacrifice Feast (Kurban Bayramı) holidays.

Kariye Müzesi (The Chora Museum)

The Chora Museum is rather like the Hagia Sophia: the museum was built as a Byzantine church in the 6th century and was later converted to a mosque by the Ottomans in the 16th century before being converted to a museum by the Republic of Turkey in the 1940s. It is considered one of the finest examples of Byzantine architecture, and contains many impressive mosaics and frescoes from all periods of its chequered history.

Address: Kariye Camii Sokak No. 29, Edirnekapı

Phone: (0212) 631 92 41; (0212) 522 09 89

Open: Thursday – Tuesday, 9:00am – 4:30pm; Wednesday, closed

Rezan Has Müzesi (Rezan Has Museum)

Rezan Has Museum is part of the Kadir Has University, which was converted from an old tobacco factory. The main attractions of the museum are a Byzantine cistern, a rare structure that is worth a visit, and the ruins of an Ottoman-era hamam (Turkish bath), both contained on the museum’s site. Temporary exhibitions constantly come and go, keeping the focus fresh and allowing for more variety. Past exhibitions have included works of painting, ceramics, and photography (to name a few).

Address: Kadir Has Üniversitesi, Cibali

Phone: (0212) 533 65 32

Open: Monday – Sunday, 9:00am – 6:00pm

*The museum is closed on New Year’s Day and public holidays.

Sadberk Hanım Müzesi (Sadberk Hanım Museum)

Founded in 1980 by the Koç family, Sadberk Hanım Museum is Turkey’s first private museum. Initially, the museum was housed in a 19th-century yalı (Turkish-style waterfront mansion), but was later expanded and now includes the 20th-century yalı next door. The museum showcases over 18,000 pieces including archeological remains from the Byzantine era, Islamic works from the Ottoman era, rare collections of ceramics, silks, and artworks from Central and Far East Asia. It is an overlooked museum but definitely worth a visit, particularly as it is constantly being updated by the family purchases from auctions across the world.

Address: Büyükdere Piyasa Cad. No: 27- 29, Sarıyer

Phone: (0212) 242 38 13 -14

Open: Monday – Tuesday, 10:00am – 5:00pm; Thursday – Sunday, 10:00am – 5:00pm; Wednesday, closed

*The museum is closed on New Year’s Day and the first day of religious holidays.

Must Drink

Thu, 17 Mar 2011 00:28:00 +0200

Salep

A very warming winter drink made with crushed orchid root, milk, and cinnamon, salep can be bought from sellers on the streets or from cafés.

Türk Kahvesi (Turkish Coffee)

Whether sade (plain), orta (medium), or şekerli (very sweet), Turkish Coffee is best enjoyed with friends and family and is an intrinsic part of Turkish culture. Turkish coffee represents a unique style of roasting, grinding, cooking, serving, and drinking coffee.Like espresso, Turkish Coffee is strong; it is served in fincans (the delicate Turkish coffee cup), and traditionally made in cezves (a bell-shaped copper pot). Once you’re done, you can turn over your cup, let the dregs settle, and have your fortune told.

Rakı

Rakı is the national, aniseed-flavored alcoholic drink, similar to the Greek uzo. It is extremely strong and the clear liquor is usually diluted with water and chilled with ice to form a milky-looking drink. Some do prefer it "straight up" with a glass of water on the side, although this is not recommended for novices. Traditionally, rakı is accompanied with an assortment of hot and cold appetizers known as meze. Rakı is a social drink, a drink drunk in company, and preferably at a meyhane (Turkish tavern). If you drink too much rakı, be sure to search out a late night işkembeci (tripe soup restaurant). This soup with its heavy garlic content is said to be the best medicine for avoiding a wicked hangover from rakı.

Boza

In the same class as salep,boza is a nourishing and creamy drink, which is slightly sweet, served with a dusting of cinnamon on top. Traditionally sold in the evenings on the streets, it is usually the long cry of the bozacı that brings customers out of their homes to buy a cup. This thick and bubbly drink is made of fermented wheat; the grain is boiled in water, crushed, and drained. Sugar and a little bit of yeast are added and the mixture is left to ferment. Boza is ready to be drunk when it begins to bubble and has a slightly acidic taste, managing to be simultaneously sweet and sour. This sweet winter drink is traditionally enjoyed with leblebi (roasted chickpeas) in the evening.

Meyva Suyu

Of course not something confined to Turkey, freshly-squeezed juice is nonetheless plentiful and cheaper in Istanbul than in most places in the world, barring tropical cities like Rio. Little kiosks litter the city, and you can order any conceivable mixture of juices, even in the depths of winter, at very little cost. Try pomegranate juice, maybe mixed with pineapple or orange.

Ayran

A blend of yogurt, salt, and water, ayran is one of the staple beverages that serve as an ideal compliment to döner dürüm, grilled-cheese sandwiches (tost), and kebab dishes. This refreshing drink is available pre-packaged but is best bought in a restaurant or büfe (Turkish fast-food joints) where it is freshly made.

Rize Çayı

Rize çayı is any Turk’s favorite beverage, taken at any time of day, usually more than once a day. The cured tea leaves are brewed for hours with boiling water. This gives it a distinctive taste, and you will never find a Turk sullying their glass of tea with milk, although sugar is quite commonly added. It is traditionally served in a çay bardağı (small curved glass). You may come across men selling çay on the street (especially around Sultanahmet). You will undoubtedly be offered a glass if you step in any carpet shop or equivalent, and it is considered rude not to accept.

Şerbet

A very refreshing drink in summer, şerbet is another embodiment of the Turkish sweet tooth. It is served chilled and can be flavored with various fruits, among which rose and raspberry are favorites. The other ingredients are sugar and a little lemon, and if rose is used, the cup is often decorated with rose petals.

Getting Around the City

Wed, 16 Mar 2011 23:54:00 +0200

Istanbul on Foot

Istanbul is quite big and, more often than not, you will need some sort of vehicle to get around the city. Some semi-pedestrian areas, such as Istiklal Caddesi, offer pleasant walking routes especially when they are not as crowded (as they always are on weekends) and when the weather is nice. The tourist spots in Sultanahmet, the Bazaar Quarter, and Beyoğlu are perfect for exploring on foot.

When walking around the city, keep in mind that Istanbul’s streets may not be as ordered and easy to navigate on foot as you might think. You may find that some neighborhoods are lacking in pavements or that the pavements are too narrow or damaged. A good tip is to always look where you are going as unexpected holes and dents can be found around the city—even in the most posh neighborhoods. Keep in mind that Istanbul’s streets are not made with mothers in mind, so it is quite difficult to go around with a stroller in most areas. You should also take note that Istanbulian drivers can be notoriously reckless and often do not stop for pedestrians—even at pedestrian crossings—which is why you should always exercise extreme caution, even when crossing at lights.

Taxis

Taxis are bright yellow cars with a ‘Taksi’ sign on the roof. You won’t have a problem finding a taxi day or night, and they can be hailed on the street at any time or found at taxi ranks. It is advisable to catch a licensed taxi from a taxi rank late at night. Taxi drivers are not always streetwise and it is usual for them to ask for directions from other drivers or shop owners, so it’s wise to carry a map. Since most drivers don’t speak any English, it’s also a good idea to have your destination written down.

As of 18 December 2010, the taxi meter starts with 2.5 TL and adds 1.4 TL per kilometer thereafter. You must add bridge crossing and toll fees to the meter (currently, it costs 3.6 TL for bridge crossing).Tipping is not necessary; however, you can round off the meter cost to the nearest hundred.

If you experience any improper behavior, call the taxi Complaint line (0212) 456 578 9.

Dolmuş

Dolmuş is a form of shared transportation commonly used by locals. Dolmuş can either be yellow station wagons (mainly on the Asian side) or blue minibuses (mainly on the European side). These vehicles run on a fixed route (which is displayed on the vehicle’s front and side windows). You may have to wait after you get on the dolmuş, as drivers will usually set off when the vehicle is full. You can get on or get off a dolmuş pretty much anywhere along the route by informing the driver. These shared taxis offer a cheaper option than taxis and a more frequent schedule than buses. Dolmuş usually operate until the evening and some major routes (such as the ones from the Asian Side to Taksim Square) operate until late.

Dolmuş don’t have stops like buses. To get on a dolmuş, stand on the side of the road on a dolmuş route, and hold your hand out as if hailing a taxi. As you’re getting on the dolmuş, double check with the driver to make sure that the dolmuş will stop at your desired destination. Once you get on, take a seat (if there is any space left), state your destination, and pass the money to the driver or to the person sitting in front of you (who will pass it along to the driver). When you want to get off, shout out “inecek var”.

The distance that you will travel determines the fare, which will range between 1-2 TL and 7-8 TL.

European Side:

The routes on the European Side are as follows:

Bakırköy-Taksim

Bakırköy-Şişli

Cevizlibağ-Taksim

Topkapı-Taksim

Beşiktaş-Taksim

Asian Side:

All the dolmuş leaving from the Asian Side to the European Side take off from Bağdat Caddesi. The routes between the Asian Side and the European side are as follows:

Kadıköy-Taksim

Bostancı-Taksim

Kadıköy-Şişli

Bostancı-Şişli

Kadıköy-Nişantaşı

The dolmuş also operates between the neighborhoods on the Asian Side. These can be hailed on the Sahil Yolu. The routes are as follows:

Üsküdar-Kadıköy

Üsküdar-Bağlarbaşı

Kadıköy-Bağlarbaşı

Üsküdar-Beykoz

City Buses

City buses are plentiful and in various colors (blue, red, green). Green and red buses require that you have an Akbil to get on board, while the blue ones allow you to pay cash. (See the Akbil section for more info.) The buses offer numerous routes around the city and are an inexpensive option. Keep in mind that buses tend to be quite crowded and you may have to wait extended periods of time. The local transport authority IETT’s website (http://iett.gov.tr/en/) offers detailed information on routes and maps in English.

Metro

Istanbul has a small but well-functioning metro system that started operating in 2000.

M1 line:This line operates between Atatürk International Airport and Aksaray.

M2 line: This line operates between Şişhane and Darüşşafaka with stops in Şişhane, Taksim Square, and Levent (the business district of Istanbul).

Trams and Funiculars

Tünel Funicular: The world’s second oldest underground cable-car is the Tünel Funicular that operates between Karaköy and Tünel Square every few minutes. This short run costs 2.50 TL.

F1 Funicular line:This line operates between Taksim Square and Kabataş. (You can transfer to the T1 line at Kabataş—see below—to get to Sultanahmet.)

T1 Tram Line:This line operates between Kabataş and Zeytinburnu, with stops throughout the old city.

Nostalgic Trams

Taksim-Tünel Tram: This 19^th-century tram connects Tünel Square and Taksim Square, running the length of Istiklal Street.

T3 Tram Line: This line connects Kadıköy and Moda on the Asian side.

Metrobus

Metrobus refers to buses that operate on special lanes that allow them to run without getting stuck in traffic. There are three lines of the Metrobus extending between the European and the Asian sides. Line 34 runs between Avcılar and Zincirlikuyu, Line 34T runs between Avcılar and Topkapı only. Line 34A along the Söğütlüçeşme and Edirnekapı route can be used to cross the bridge.

Ferries/Sea Buses

There are ferry (vapur) and sea bus (deniz otobüsü) services along the Bosphorus for those wishing an alternate route. Ferries, a more nostalgic version of sea travel, are cheaper than sea buses, which are faster, more modern, and more comfortable. Common routes operate between Beşiktaş, Kabataş, and Eminönü on the European side and Üsküdar, Kadıköy, and Karaköy on the Asian side.

There are services operating between the city (from both sides) and the Princes’ Islands; these services are more frequent during the spring and summer months. There are also regular services running along the Golden Horn and the Bosphorus Strait (with stops in Ortaköy, Arnavutköy, and Bebek).

The ferries and sea buses operate quite frequently and their timetables can be viewed at the terminals. You can also view timetables online; for sea bus timetables, visit www.ido.com.tr/en/index.cfm, and for ferry timetables, visit www.sehirhatlari.com.tr/en

Sea Taxis

This innovative, 24/7 commuting service is a (more expensive) alternative for those who wish to cross the Bosphorus or visit the Princes’ Islands on their own schedule.

Deniz Taksi boats can hold up to 10 people and prices are calculated based on the distance traveled. You must call to request a taxi when you are by the water or you can reserve ahead of time. To make a booking and for fare information, call 444 44 98 or visit www.deniztaksi.com (the website does not have an English version yet).

Su Samuru is a fairly new and elegant sea-taxi company that has the capacity to transport 10 passengers. The elegantly-decorated boat is equipped with a music and LCD system, air-conditioning, and heating. The sea taxi is also available for guided tours. To make a booking and for fare information, call 0533 777 77 18 or visit www.su-samuru.com (the website does not have an English version yet).

Akbil

If you will be in Istanbul for an extended period of time, it is worth investing in an Akbil, a smart, electronic pass that makes getting around in public transport easier and faster. Akbil can be used with all forms of public transport except for dolmuş. An adult Akbil travel pass can be used by more than one person as long as enough number of fares can be charged from it. Akbil offers 10\\% discount at all fares as well as 50\\% discount for the next five transits within 120 minutes.

Akbil can be purchased from ticket offices close to main bus, metro, and train stations by paying a small deposit. Keep in mind that you can’t purchase an akbil inside train or metro stations. You will need to find a booth with a “Akbil Satış Noktası” sign near major stations (such as in Mecidiyeköy and Taksim Square). Akbil recharging kiosks are located inside most stations.

Akbil is refundable, so remember to keep your purchase receipt if you would like to return it at the end of your trip.

Istanbul, the Eternal Mystery

Wed, 16 Mar 2011 02:53:00 +0200

Like Salome in her dance of the seven veils, Istanbul reveals herself slowly, layer by shimmering layer. Clever but coy, she weaves a spell of music, movement and mystery around her mesmerized audience. Over the centuries, she has been courted by many but won by few. Her dance has dazzled some of the greatest men in history: Justinian, Constantine and Mehmet the Conqueror, who all made her the queen of their empires. With each marriage, her name changed from Byzantium, to Constantinople to Istanbul.

Istanbul has always been a stunning beauty: from head to toe, her curvaceous shores are lined with grand palaces and villas; her seven hills are dressed in green parks and red roofs; her accessories are glittering domes and minarets. But her main attraction has to be her dowry: the waters of the Golden Horn and the Bosphorus.

The Bosphorus is Istanbul’s lifeblood. One of the most strategic straits in the world, it is also one of the most beautiful. Dividing Europe and Asia and connecting the Black Sea to the Marmara, it is spanned by two magnificent bridges. Ferries, yachts, tankers, cruise ships, speedboats, oil rigs, fishing boats, aircraft carriers, military ships and even the occasional rowboat vie for space on Istanbul’s busiest artery. Istanbul’s other famous stretch of water, the Golden Horn, is a freshwater estuary that divides the European bank and it gets its name from the color of its waters as the setting sun melts into it. An excellent natural harbor, it was home to the Byzantine and Ottoman navies and used to be closed off with a gargantuan chain.

Between the Bosphorus and the Golden Horn lies the triangular Sultanahmet peninsula, home to the Old City. This is where the best-known monuments, mosques and palaces are clustered. At its core stand the five pillars of historic Istanbul - Topkapı Palace, the Blue Mosque, the Haghia Sophia, the Hippodrome and the Basilica Cistern. Nearby, the legendary Covered Bazaar (also called the Grand Bazaar) has over 4,000 tempting shops in its labyrinthine arcades. Sultanahmet is also home to the best-known museums, like the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts, the Archaeological Museum, Calligraphy Museum and Mosaic Museum.

In the past, Istanbul’s European side consisted of the Old City plus a series of scattered districts and villages along its shores. These neighborhoods have merged into a seamless whole, but they still maintain a definite sense of individuality. As a result, the city has no center. No Place de la Concorde, no Times Square, no Trafalgar. Instead, different activities are focused in different areas. Each region reveals a layer of Istanbul life, a shimmering veil of Salome.

On the opposite shore of the Golden Horn, Istanbul drops a veil to reveal a thoroughly modern face. The district of Beyoğlu is Istanbul’s SoHo - a carnival of bars and restaurants, movie theatres and clubs, art galleries and bookstores, theatres and shops, churches, synagogues and mosques. The pedestrian Istiklal Caddesi (Avenue) forms Beyoğlu’s backbone. Istanbul’s most elegant, most obviously European neighborhood is nearby Nişantaşı, its streets packed with designer labels, stylish cafes, chic restaurants, trendy bars, elite boutiques and stunning Art Nouveau apartment buildings.

Istanbul is a huge city hosting millions of lives and thousands of different realities. Most of its residents live on the Asian shore, an area usually missed by visitors to the city. Here, you can witness a more authentic vision of Istanbul life, as well as a stunning view of the wonders on the opposite shore. Whether you drive over one of the two bridges (Boğaziçi or Fatih Sultan Mehmet) or take a ferry across the Bosphorus, the journey to Asia is one you are guaranteed never to forget.

While the hubbub of the city can be hypnotic, those seeking a respite should head by ferry to the nearby Princes’ Islands. Büyükada, (aka Big Island) the largest, is an idyllic retreat where horse-drawn carriages remain the most modern form of transport.

Sadly, as the veils fall, Istanbul somewhat reveals her age. Like any ancient city faced with rapid development, Istanbul has an unfortunate side - noise, smells, crowds and clever con artists. But even these belong uniquely to Istanbul and are a part of its magic: its noise is that of thousands of syncopated calls to prayer mixed with the latest number one single blasting from music stores; its smell is of pungent spices mixed with Chanel No. 5; its crowds are a mix of every race, culture and creed, and its con artists have the decency to offer you tea before “taking you for a ride” politely - and in your own language.

The child of Europe and Asia, Istanbul is a remarkable and beautiful blend of East and West. But she is much more than a pretty face. Her role on the world stage as arbitrator of cultures has never been more relevant or more promising. For all this, Istanbul remains essentially unknowable: the final veil tantalizes but is never dropped.

Exerpt from “Istanbul’s Definitive Districts: A Wanderer's Guide” published in The Guide Istanbul May/June 2008

Dawn in Istanbul

Wed, 16 Mar 2011 02:50:00 +0200

“Dawn is nothing but an eerie threshold between day and night,” my grandmother would say. Thresholds, in turn, are utterly unreliable and uncanny. Thresholds belong to the djinni, not to human beings who are in need of less ambiguity and more clarity in life. Thus, if you happen to be in Turkey and wide awake at dawn, my grandmother's like minded would urge you to go back to sleep - unless of course, you deliberately want to step into the threshold of the djinni.

You wipe out the sleep from your eyes and let's say, find yourself in a hotel room in Istanbul. It is dawn. Apart from some scattered twinkles, it is still densely dark all over the city. All along the grimy, narrow streets snaking the oldest quarters, in the apartment buildings cramming the newly built districts, throughout the deluxe suburbia... People are everywhere, and everywhere they are fast asleep. All but some.

Some Istanbulites have, as usual, woken up earlier than others. The imams all around the city, for instance; the young and the old, the mellow-voiced and the not so mellow voiced, makes no difference. The imams of the copious mosques are the first ones to wake up, ready to call the believers to morning prayer. Then there are the simit vendors. They too are on their way, headed to their respective bakers to pick up the crispy, crunchy merchandise they will be selling all day long.

Accordingly, the bakers are awake too. Most of them usually get a few hours of shut-eye before they start work while some others never snooze at night. Either way, every day without exception, the bakers start to heat their ovens in the middle of the night. Before dawn, the bakeries in the city are already thick with the delightful, delicious smell of early morning bread.

Then there are the cleaning ladies scattered far and wide; they too are awake. They are surprisingly swift, sometimes indolent and reluctant but always necessarily frisky women of all ages who get up pretty early since they have to take at least two or three different buses to arrive at the houses of the well-off where they will rub, clean and polish all day long. These houses are unlike theirs. The residents in them are a distinct species. Here women always wear make-up and never show their age. This agelessness of theirs is what most surprises the cleaning ladies. Unlike their own husbands, the husbands in the suburbia are always busy, surprisingly polite and somewhat effeminate. Time is not a scarce commodity in the suburbia. People use it lavishly, freely, just like they do with hot water. The cleaning ladies cannot help but marvel at the ease and length and frequency with which the housewives of the suburbia take showers or make bubbly, milky baths, morning and evening, though it is hard to tell that they do any work that might drench them in sweat.

The imams, simit vendors, bakers and cleaning ladies, burglars and car thieves, bag ladies and the homeless, prostitutes and glue sniffers, bodyguards and bar girls ending yet another night shift at the clubs, talkative cab drivers and morose milk van drivers, those who abandon the city and those just arriving at its gates, and radicals left and right out on the empty streets to paint slogans on the walls… other than these motley cluster of early birds, the rest of Istanbul is still in deep slumber. There is something in sleep that resembles the all-embracing, all-pervading, almost egalitarian smothering of death. Be it the moneyed or the deprived, the various ethnicities, subcultures, countercultures, minorities or those solidly rooted in power… makes no difference, sleep canopies all. It is daybreak now…that uncanny threshold between nighttime and daylight…the only time of the day when it is too late to find solace in dreams and yet too early to let go of them. When you are a foreigner in a hotel room in Istanbul at dawn, you will find yourself standing in a threshold between not only day and night, but also the East and West, the future and the past, and the human beings and the djinni. Istanbul at the crack of dawn is a gummy, almost gelatinous entity, an amorphous shape of a material half-liquid half-solid. And so you will be… open to change… all set for transformation… ready to embark on the art of living.

Originally published in The Guide Istanbul November/December 2005

Istanbul: A Magic City

Tue, 15 Mar 2011 23:33:00 +0200

Very early in the morning of a cool summer day, not so long ago, I was driving on the bridge across the Bosphorus on my way to the airport. The sun was just coming up over the hills flooding the sky with a gentle pink light. The air was crisp, the city was asleep and a huge oil tanker was silently gliding over the blue waters of the Bosphorus straits. All around me was breathtaking beauty, a moment of intense joy in this magic city which, no matter how crowded difficult and noisy it may get, never fails to fill your heart with bliss.

I had come to Istanbul for the first time over ten years ago with the companion of my life - a girl born on Istanbul's Asian shore, whom I had met in far away lands. It was love at first sight and during my subsequent visits, I found Istanbul always new and, at the same time, immutable.

At first, I was fascinated by the buzzing bazaars, the impossibly grand mosques, the noise of tavla (backgammon) in Ortaköy's tea gardens, the hamam (Turkish Bath) and the smoky cafes full of men pulling on nargile (water pipes). But, as the years went by and I got to know the city better, I saw another of its many faces: that of a modern, ultra-dynamic metropolis where signs of a renewed cultural vibrancy come hand in hand with a physical renaissance; and yet the past is everywhere. There is a new pavement where before you could not walk, clean streets where once there were only dark and unwelcoming alleys, sophisticated hotels and restaurants that seem to spring up overnight, and a new subway which now takes me to Levent from Taksim and sometime soon will take me across the Bosphorus, from Europe to Asia and back, in no time.

I go to Beyoğlu and instead of the red light district of bygone days, I see a long stretch of newly-renovated charming old buildings, trendy restaurants, a bevy of just-open hip shops, and a sea of humanity walking up and down - no matter what time of the day or night. At the same time, though, nothing has really changed. The Malatya Pazarı where I can buy all types of dried nuts and fruits is still there, my favorite newspaper vendor is still doing brisk business at the exit of Tünel on Istiklal Street, and impeccably dressed waiters eagerly invite you to the delight of fresh fish at the Çiçek Pasajı, just as they have always done. As one of Turkey's leading international writers, Orhan Pamuk wrote in his autobiographical book entitled Memories of Istanbul, “not even in my dreams did I ever expect the streets of my childhood to be as crowded as they are today. But when you are as tied to a city as I am to Istanbul, you come to accept its fate as your own; you come to see it as an extension of your body, your very soul”.

It is this great divide between the old and the new, the East and the West, Europe and Asia which constantly reminds this unique city, and the over thirteen million people who live in it, of the need of constantly redefining its own powerful identity. A difficult task for a city where every stone, if only it could talk, would tell incredible stories of glorious empires and the splendor of the past - of dark days and of an indomitable spirit. And if for years being cool and innovative meant simply being western, today there is a cultural revival which is helping the city reclaim its own heritage. There is a novel energy and signs of renewed confidence are everywhere, artists are rediscovering their own voices and superb musicians mix the haunting melodies of Sufi rituals with computer beats. In many ways, this incessant quest is what makes Istanbul so fascinating, a feeling that in my many years of traveling I perhaps found only in the crowded and noisy alleys of Hong Kong.

Often, from a ferry slowly crossing the Bosphorus I look at this immense city glowing in a soft shade of blue and I feel blessed, no matter how many millions of people are there at the same time, or how long it took to get there and how many other problems might be waiting when the ferry with a deep whooo sound signals that the trip is - unfortunately - over. And I feel equally blessed when in winter I sit by the Bosphorus at a table of my favorite coffee house in Çengelköy and see the dark shadow of a gigantic ship cutting through thick fog on its way to the Black Sea, while everything around me is still and the silence is broken only by the shrill cry of the seagulls. These are magic moments - difficult to share and even more difficult to forget. The thing is that whenever you want, whichever may be your way, whether you like the small streets of Eminönü or if your scene is the fashionable night clubs by the Bosphorus, in Istanbul you can always find a way to get in touch with yourself, a place where you feel that you can be forgiven for thinking that life is pretty good.

In so many ways, Istanbul reminds me of Rome, where I grew up and lived for many years. Both cities are extraordinarily beautiful, albeit in different ways and there, as in Istanbul, you can live and love the city only if you feel that its history is also yours, that its past belongs to you too. At the same time, however, Rome noisy and chaotic as it often feels, is a much smaller and subdued city. Nowhere in Rome will one see the incredible crowds that are constantly on the move in Istanbul. One of the things which never fails to amaze me is while waiting for a ferry in a huge hall full of impatient passengers to watch the astonishing amount of people who come out from the long white boats when they finally dock. They are coming precisely from where we are all going, and they never seem to finish.

Granted, Istanbul is not all beauty and bliss. Distances are enormous, traffic is impossible, and life is often more complicated than it needs to be. Everyone complains, but then nobody seems to really mind. No one will hesitate, for instance, to travel an hour on a Sunday to go for breakfast at their favorite cafe, which happens to be on the other side of town or in another continent. Every weekend, Bağdat Caddesi, the main artery of the Asian side is milling with people, cafes are overflowing with customers waiting for a table, and an incessant flow of bumper to bumper cars, blasting the latest hits out of open windows, packs the four-lane avenue. Recently, on a Saturday night, I was going with some friends to have dinner at a fish restaurant by the Bosphorus in Beylerbeyi. It took us well over an hour to get there, traffic was terrible, but then, as we sat down at a table by the water, it took less than an instant to feel that it was all worth the trouble and the hassle. As we were coming out it was past midnight and somebody was buying fresh vegetables out of a stall as vibrant with colors as this city is. And so as Istanbul goes - life can be difficult, but a prize seems to be always waiting for you someplace. You just have to get there.

Originally published in The Guide Istanbul September/October 2006

NARGILE… A different kind of "smoke"

Tue, 15 Mar 2011 22:56:00 +0200

Nargile, the eastern waterpipe, is as popular as ever and an evocative reminder of the smoky past of Istanbul. Nargile, also known by the terms "hookah", “shisha” or "hubblybubbly", originated a few centuries ago in India. At that time, it was made from a coconut shell and as the Nargile traveled through Central Asia to Iran, it evolved into its present form, with the shape of a bottle.

Contrary to popular opinion (and the spaced-out, nargile-smoking caterpillar in Alice in Wonderland), hashish is not an approved substance to be smoked anywhere and is illegal in Turkey. Tobacco is the product of choice for smoking with a nargile. A dark tobacco is imported from Iran and this is the best quality tobacco available. For younger smokers, the preferred varieties of tobacco are made from apple, mint, melon or coconut. Some enhanced flavor can be added to the nargile smoke itself, by the addition of rose oil or pomegranate juice to the water.

There are strict rules of etiquette surrounding the smoking of a nargile. For example, you are never supposed to debase the high art of nargile smoking by lighting a cigarette from the coals. Also, you should never rest the nargile on a high place. In fact, it should always be placed on the floor. Finally, you should never pass the ağızlık directly to another person. The correct procedure is to put it down after use, and then the other person will pick it up himself, when he is ready.

Although nargile usage has declined with the advent of the more portable cigarette, it hasn’t lost its popularity as people seek the sedentary silence it allows. Cigarettes are for people on the go and nargiles are for those who want to get away from it all. Nargile cafés are places to talk and sip coffee or tea quietly, between puffs. The fact that the smoking process can last an hour or two means that it is very conducive to philosophical discussion. The most authentic and popular nargile café is Çorlulu Ali Paşa Medresesi, located near the Covered Bazaar. Another is Pierre Loti Café, which has a fantastic view of the Golden Horn. You can also find nargile cafés in the Sultanahmet area, Beyoğlu and dotted around the city. Most establishments ostensibly obey the smoking ban and have their nargiles positioned outside during the day, but as with many cafes and bars after hours, the smoking creeps inside like a sneaky, secret vice.

Note: It is important to be aware that some medical specialists have stated that water pipe smoking can lead to tuberculosis, bronchitis, emphysema, heart disease and the transmission of viruses that can be transferred from previous users.

This article was published in The Guide Istanbul July/Aug 2001

The Hamam: Where Cleanliness and Godliness Combine

Tue, 15 Mar 2011 22:37:00 +0200

Long before the Turkish tribes swept into Anatolia, they had established healthy bathing traditions. Upon their arrival in Asia Minor, they confronted another squeaky-clean civilization: the Byzantines who took their spas seriously and had Roman-style baths throughout their empire. The structure of the Byzantine bathhouse merged with Turkish bathing rituals and the Muslim observance of cleanliness, and voilà: the hamam was born. Over time, the hamam was no longer just a place of ablution; it had become an intrinsic part of Ottoman life.

At a time when most homes did not have running water, the public baths were a watering hole for all strata of society. Every neighborhood had at least one bath. At their peak, there must have been hundreds of hamams in Istanbul. Young and old, rich and poor, male and female, all congregated under the domed roofs of the hamam. Contrary to Western exotic-erotic fantasies, hamams were always segregated—there were either separate bathing areas or a single space would have different schedules for the two sexes. Legend has it that anyone found in the wrong section of the hamam would be sentenced to death!

The elaborate bathing process could take hours, so they provided the ideal atmosphere for socializing and gossiping. Men would gather and talk about business, politics, and court life. Women would travel en masse to the hamam, accompanied by servants who carried dishes of food that would be eaten while bathing. Songs would be sung and music would be played. It was also a place where young women learned how to care for their hair and bodies and how to apply make-up. For women, a trip to the bathhouse provided a rare opportunity to engage in social activity outside the home. It is said that it was grounds for divorce if a man forbade his wife to go to the hamam.

There are many fascinating social traditions connected to the hamam. Mothers would look for prospective brides for their sons there. Once a bride had been chosen, a gelin hamamı or bride’s bath would be held; the hamam would be hired and closed to the public. The groom’s family would present the bride-to-be with a special costume to wear to and from the hamam as well as an ornate robe for her to wear in the hamam. A procession would enter the hamam led by the bride and a woman beating a tambourine. Songs would be sung by candlelight. Single girls would toss coins into the waters and wish for a happy marriage. Today, Turkish celebrities have brought this custom back into fashion and foreign brides-to-be have also adopted the tradition as part of their henna weekends. Today, at bride’s baths food is served, the bridal party’s palms are dyed with henna, traditional fasıl music is played, and there is much singing and dancing.

Yet another trip to the hamam was customary on the fortieth day after the birth of a child. (New mothers were traditionally kept at home for forty days after giving birth.) Circumcision parties were also held at a hamam. Indeed, almost any important event in someone’s life was celebrated by a trip to the hamam, from receiving a promotion to going to the army. At the final stage of the life cycle, mourners would also mark the death of a loved one at the hamam.

The hamam lost its significance as the majority of people began to have bathrooms with hot and cold running water in their homes. The majority of hamams in Istanbul disappeared in the 50s and 60s. Today, only a few dozen hamams remain, including a few ‘tourist’ bathhouses and a number of more humble neighborhood ones.

Exerpt from “Where Cleanliness and Godliness Combine: The Hamam” published in The Guide Istanbul July/August 2009

Money

Mon, 14 Mar 2011 01:33:00 +0200

Currency

The currency of Turkey is the Turkish Lira (TL). Coins are 5, 10, 25, 50 kuruş (equivalent of cents or pennies) and 1 TL. Bank notes are 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, and 200 TL.

Foreign Currency Exchange

Foreign exchange offices are known as Döviz Bürosu, and can be found throughout the city. They are very easy to find as their storefront has the word “DÖVIZ” boldly displayed. Operating hours are generally Monday-Friday from 9:00am to 5:00pm, although those located in shopping malls and touristic areas stay open until around 7:30pm; these are also open on Saturdays. Keep in mind that exchange offices that are open on Sundays offer very bad rates.

Foreign exchange offices generally offer better rates than banks, and do not charge a commission. In order to find out what the exchange rate is, look under the heading for SATIŞ (selling), which are displayed either inside the bureau or on the storefront. It is worth looking around at different offices, as rates can vary. Travelers’ checks and bank checks carry a commission fee.

Banks and ATMS

Most major banks offer online banking services in English. Banks are open from 9:00am to 5:00pm on weekdays, while branches that operate in shopping malls are also open on Saturdays. Please note that while most banks stay open through lunch, some do close for a lunch break from 12:00-1:00pm. To increase your chances of finding a bank with English speaking staff, head for a branch somewhere in the area of Taksim/Beyoğlu, if possible on Istiklal Caddesi.

The Turkish Iş Bankası also offers expatriate banking services including internet banking, ATM banking, and telephone banking in English. Garanti Bankası is another bank that makes an effort to provide services in English.

With a valid credit or debit card, you can get cash advances at most atms, which are abundently spread around the city. Accepted cards are posted on atms. Citibank, HSBC, and Fortis are some international banks that you will find in Istanbul. You can witdraw money from these international banks as well as from most Turkish banks, which are on the Cirrus or PLUS networks. Check with your bank to make sure that your credit card is on one of these networks.

It is possible to open bank accounts in foreign currencies at the major banks listed above. You will need to provide your passport and full details of your current bank accounts. Be prepared for the whole process to take some time.

If you want to open a bank account in Turkish currency, you will be asked for a tax number and a residency permit or work permit. You can get your tax number after a trip to the Tax Department with your passport and residency permit or work permit. Opening an account will provide you with conveniences, such as money storage, transfers, online banking, and automatic utility-bill payments. If you aim to keep your bank account open for more than a month, you may opt for a savings account but the banks will withdraw 15\\\\\\% tax from your interest.

You can exchange foreign currency and traveler’s cheques at banks, but do note that exchange offices offer better rates than banks (see above).

Credit Cards

All major credit cards are accepted in most establishments in Turkey. MasterCard and Visa are more wide spread, while American Express and Diners Club International are less widely accepted because of the high commission fees.

Money Transfer

The best option for transferring money in Istanbul is to use Western Money Transfer, which is available as a service offered at all branches of the major Turkish banks: Garanti Bankası, Iş Bankası, Denizbank, Dışbank, Akbank, Yapı Kredi Bankası, Oyak Bank, Finansbank, and Ziraat Bankası. To receive money by transfer, arrive at the bank with your passport and transfer details, including your money transfer control number, the time the money is to be sent, and the amount of money being transfered. The money should be available immediately in US dollars, Euros, or TL. The other (slower and less reliable) option is to go through the bank’s own channels, which is possible even if you do not have an account with them. However, the money can be blocked for up to 20 days by the bank, and the only way to get around this is to withdraw the money in Turkish Lira at the bank’s stated rate, or by paying a high commission. The moral of the story: go for Western Money Transfer if at all possible.

Nişantaşı

Sat, 05 Mar 2011 17:28:00 +0200

Nişantaşı is Istanbul’s most obviously European neighborhood, with its streets packed with designer labels, stylish cafés, chic restaurants, trendy bars, elite boutiques, and stunning Art Nouveau apartment buildings. However, it is easy for the first-time visitor to overlook this area because it lacks historical venues and monuments, and other essential tourist sites. Yet for shopping and style enthusiasts, missing Nişantaşı would be a real shame—one look, and it is easy to see why this area is considered the city’s style capital.

In 1853, Sultan Abdül Mecit moved his court from Topkapı to Dolmabahçe Palace, signaling the birth of Nişantaşı as a residential neighborhood. Eventually, the old Ottoman Imperial Guard of the Sultan’s court was replaced by the new Republican Turkish elite, who took to apartment life and maintained the region’s reputation for style and exclusivity—a reputation that remains to this day. Abdi Ipekçi and Maçka Caddesi are still considered amongst Istanbul’s most fashionable and desirable addresses. In fact, the area is home to many beautifully maintained Art Nouveau apartment buildings, as well as flocks of stylish and impeccably groomed ‘ladies who lunch’.

Around 30 years ago, the character of the region began to change, as shops and restaurants opened, catering to the wealthy residents who were accustomed to a European lifestyle. The main intersection of Rumeli Caddesi and Vali Konağı Caddesi was the center of Istanbul’s shopping district. This growth had a temporary setback in the late 1980s and 1990s, with the opening of the city’s first shopping malls, causing retail property values in the area to plummet. However, the novelty of shopping malls soon wore off and Istanbul’s elite were enticed back to the neighborhood by new cafés and boutiques that offered what the malls,by definition, could not: exclusivity. Today, the area attracts top designer names, as well as people from all over the city, with its refined and plush atmosphere.

Nearby is the Akaretler area, so named for the Sıraevler, or Row Houses, which line the lower end of the main streets. Commissioned by Sultan Abdülaziz, and designed by Sarkis Balyan, these 90 blocks were originally built to house the employees of the nearby palace. After decades of neglect, restoration of the buildings began in 1998, and today the area is home to a number of cafés and restaurants, as well as the local branch of the upscale W Hotel chain. Although the recent trend has been for art galleries to open in the area, there are also a handful of high-end retailers present, such as local jeweler Sevan Bıçakçı (Lady Gaga is known to be a fan).

With so much wealth concentrated in a relatively small area, it comes as no surprise that all the great European and American fashion houses have branches in Nişantaşı, mostly clustered on Abdi Ipekçi Caddesi, including Prada, Louis Vuitton, Alexander McQueen, Gucci…the list goes on. Many leading Turkish labels, such as Gönül Paksoy, Beymen, and Vakko, have also set up shop in the area. Nişantaşı is also one of the best neighborhoods for jewelry shopping, with a number of major international jewelry chains, such as Tiffany’s and Cartier, and some of the best known Turkish jewelers, such as Urart and Gilan. Furthermore, the area is home to many small independent jewelers, selling a wide variety of classic and contemporary designs to suit all budgets. Nearby in the neighborhood’s Maçka district, the area’s one and only mall City’s has opened for those who want the convenience of many stores located under one roof.

For those shoppers that have Champagne tastes but beer budgets, Nişantaşı also offers a nice compromise: you can enjoy window shopping at all the top designer boutiques and peruse the latest trends, while making your purchases at high-street shops, such as Zara, Top Shop and Mudo. These stores are found mostly at the intersection between Rumeli Caddesi and Vali Konağı Caddesi. In fact, Nişantaşı is the ideal neighborhood for those who enjoy shopping in such chains but prefer to avoid shopping malls, for many mass market shops are present, but in a boutique-style setting.

With its top notch stores and restaurants, beautiful architecture, not to mention all the beautiful people, whatever you choose to do or taste in Nişantaşı, you can be confident that it will be among the best that Istanbul has to offer.

Clothing

A46 is an apparel shop that carries the designs of young Turkish designer Tuvana Büyükçınar. The clothing here is colorful and playful with plenty of girly embellishments.

Artisan’s designer Bilge Mestçi creates couture pieces in lush fabrics, including silk, velvet, and antique lace, which are all woven exclusively for Artisan. The store, which was established in 1973, also designs custom-made bridal gowns on request.

Known for her avant-garde designs, Arzu Kaprol uses texture and pleating to create highly sculptural pieces. A darling of the Turkish media, Kaprol’s designs include a couture and prêt-àporter line, which are sold in Turkey and abroad.

Beymen Blender is the cutting-edge sister of the power house Beymen department store. This is a concept store where, as the name suggests, you can find a blend of products, including clothing, accessories, and home décor.

Desa is one of the most established names in Turkish leather, specializing in high-quality leather in modern designs. Desa produces shoes, handbags, accessories, and clothing for both men and women, and is also the representative for Samsonite luggage in Turkey.

In Gönül Paksoy’s distinctive boutique, you will find a range of unique designs in hand-dyed fabrics, as well as one of-a-kind handbags, slippers, and jewelry inspired by Ottoman fashions that often incorporate vintage beads and textiles.

HakanYıldırım designs a very glamorous range of women’s wear from his Nişantaşı workshop. A favorite with Istanbul socialites, his garments are produced as a limited series and have been gaining increasing international attention.

Mavi Jeans was one of the first Turkish brands to become an international hit when their denim designs gained global popularity in the 1990s. Mavi (which means blue in Turkish) carries a wide range of jeans and clothing and now has a global store network

Established in 1993, Punto Deri is one of the leaders in the Turkish leather sector, designing a range of high-quality and stylish garments in both leather and fur.

Özlem Süer has been working in the fashion industry for over 20 years, and her experimental designs have many fans in Turkey and beyond. Süer’s designs are feminine and romantic, with her Nişantaşı store housed in a historical villa that reflects this aesthetic.

Established in 2003, Yasemin Akat is an established Turkish brand.The style here is modern bohemian,with lots of draped fabric in textured,neutral tones.

Jewelry
In business for over 20 years, Arkaik designs modern Turkish jewelry that has a very sculptural feel. The line is inspired by ancient civilizations, often drawing inspiration from historical and cultural motifs for their designs.

Diamond by Naci Şenocaklı produces classic jewelry pieces in original designs, including Ottoman inspired collections.

Ela Cindoruk-Nazan Pak is a jewelry studio and store that features the work of both Cindoruk and Pak, as well as pieces from other young designers. Their designs are clean-cut, geometric, and modern, often made with materials like resin and paper in bright colors.

Urart designs a range of jewelry based on pieces in the Istanbul Archeological Museum, drawing inspiration from the Byzantine period, Hittite civilization, and Anatolian cultures. Tableware, caviar services, glassware, and other home décor items are also produced in equally luxurious designs.

Zeynep Erol is a local jeweler who creates unique pieces in her workshop and store. Inspired by shapes in nature, Erol often works with different tones of gold to produce themed collections.

Home Wear
Armaggan’s motto is Unique By Design, and it is easy to see why. Armaggan produces a range of textiles, jewelry, and decorative items that are all in limited numbers. Inspired by Anatolia, these modern designs are made of natural materials.

One of the few antique shops in this part of town, Chalabi carries furniture, paintings, porcelain, and other rare works of art, including Ottoman and Russian jewelry.

Established in 1981, Güneş Öztarakçı carpet and kilim housecarries a particularly feminine collection, specializing in silk rugsfrom Hereke. This shop is also knownfor its quality reproductions of antiquecarpets.

Haremlique produces high-quality home linens and textiles, taking their inspiration from Ottoman designs. Sheets and luxuriously plush towels made of Egyptian cotton, scented candles, soaps, and other chic home accessories are also available.

Raen produces a range of quality beauty products including natural soaps, herbal creams, and massage oils. Personalized beauty products can also be created for your individual skin care needs.

Yastık means cushion in Turkish, and this shop carries a dizzying array designed by internationally-acclaimed fashion designer Rıfat Özbek and Erdal Karaman. You can find everything from Central Asian silk ikats to Anatolian floral prints in a range of exotic materials.

International Brands:
Major international clothing brandsincluding Brioni, Chanel, DKNY,Emporio Armani, Louis Vuitton,Hermes, Loro Piana, Prada, Zilli aswell as luxury jewelers such as Cartier, Chopard, and Tiffany’s all have storesin Nişantaşı. There are also a numberof Turkish boutiques that specialize in

designer brands, such as Polar Moda, which carries a range of international luxury brands, including Narciso Rodriguez, Monique Lhuillier, and Jason Wu.

The Republic and ATATÜRK

Thu, 24 Feb 2011 01:06:00 +0200

A visitor who comes for the first time in Turkey is probably surprised by the innumerable portraits and busts of Kemal Atatürk that are seen in every corner of the country and the veneration in which he is held more than half a century after his death. Many countries have of course their own heroes, but perhaps none who is recognized not only as a great military com-mander and an out-standing statesman, but also as a man who almost single-handedly carried out a far reaching political, social and cultural revolution.

Atatürk was born in 1881 in Salonica which then was one of the great cosmopolitan cities of the Ottoman Empire. This empire, with Istanbul as its capital had reached its apogee in the 16th century. It was a theocratic, monarchical and in a sense a feudal state whose grandeur started thereafter to decline as its borders gradually receded. Nevertheless, at the time that Atatürk was born it still encompassed the greatest part of the Balkans and practically the whole Middle East. Its population included, besides Turks, Arabs, Greeks, Serbs, Bulgarians, Armenians and Jews. But as a young officer, Atatürk had to witness the defeat in the Balkan wars in 1912-13 which resulted in the loss of most of the European territories of the Empire including his hometown. Close to a million Turks fleeing persecution had to abandon their homes and take refuge in territories still held by the Empire.

Already in his student years Atatürk started to develop his political ideas. He had learned French and was reading avidly the works of Rousseau and Voltaire as well as the translations of the works of English political thinkers. He realized very early that unless it could accomplish a profound transformation, his country had no chance to integrate itself into modern civilization. For him, modern civilization meant the West with its industrial technology, commercial reach, cultural radiance and secular systems of government.

The First World War dealt the final blow to the Ottoman Empire. Atatürk distinguished himself as a commanding general officer in the Dardanelles and the Middle East, but in the end Turkey was defeated, together with her allies, Germany, Austria and Bulgaria. As he was compelled to sign a humiliating treaty, Greece landed its forces in Izmir with the aim of annexing Western Anatolia. The Sultanate in Istanbul, under the control of occupying powers, had become impotent. It is under these circumstances that Atatürk took the lead in Anatolia in organizing a new political movement and a national army with the aim of recuperating the territories where the majority of the population was overwhelmingly Turkish. Combining military operations with skillful diplomacy he achieved his goal. A new Turkey was to emerge with the Treaty signed in Lausanne, Switzerland in 1923.

As the peace negotiations in Lausanne were proceeding, the new Parliament in Ankara decided to abolish the Sultanate. This was the prelude to the proclamation of the Republic later in 1923. But in abolishing the Sultanate it was decided to maintain in Istanbul the Caliphate, the ultimate religious authority of the Islamic world, which the Ottoman dynasty had been representing since the 16th century following the conquest of Egypt. It would not take long, however, before Atatürk decided to abolish the Caliphate as well. His model for Turkey was that of a secular state, a state where religion did not have any political power or influence. Looking at what is happening in the world today, the exploitation of religion to ferment hatred and violence, this vision of Atatürk is fully vindicated.

Atatürk was elected the first President of the Republic of Turkey. He made Ankara the capital of the new Republic. He became the driving force of several social, educational and cultural reforms. He pursued a foreign policy of reconciliation and friendship with neighbors and endeavored to preserve peace as the clouds of war were gathering in Europe and in the Mediterranean in the late 1930s. He never wavered from his aim of anchoring Turkey firmly to the West and prepared the institutional infrastructure which enabled Turkey later to move towards a multi-party parliamentary democracy. He restored the pride, dignity and self-confidence of the Turkish people. Emancipation and empowerment of women was one of his most important achievements.

Atatürk died on November 10, 1938, but continues to remain a source of inspiration for the people. His legacy is still valid because he was a man of principle, but not a dogmatic one. Rationalism and pragmatism always prevailed in him and are encapsulated in what he said shortly before his death: "I am leaving no sermon, no dogma, nor am I leaving as my legacy any commandment that is frozen in time or cast in stone".

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