In the new location, you can find all of Tuna’s trademark designs, which mainly consist of decorative objects and jewelry, including her new line of porcelain and metal rings. Like all of her designs, this new collection incorporates historical elements to create totally unique designs.

All displays include screens that show videos of the process involved in the intricate art of calligraphy production according to the traditional techniques. Apart from this a new technological experiment is being tested by museum-goers, in the form of “Augmented Reality” where museum-provided iPads are held up to markers in the exhibition that are recognized by the application and consequently open a system that give further detailed information about items on display. Users can, for example, turn the pages of the korans on display to see the entirety of the item. Downstairs, the original family rooms are also on display, and the Augmented Reality system allows for viewers to see old photos of Sakıp Sabancı and his family in the exact rooms that they are standing in for a kind of time-travel-like feel.

Sakıp Sabancı (d. 2004) began the collection in the 1970s, moving on to exhibit the items in major museums abroad in 1989 and on, where they were greeted with such wide enthusiasm that the idea of creating a museum in Istanbul sprouted. After expanding the collection, the family mansion was generously handed over to the Sabancı University in 1998 and was converted into a museum. In 2002 a modern gallery was added to the complex and opened to the public among a beautiful garden of exuberant green trees and a view of the Bosporus. Sakıp Sabancı Caddesi No. 42; P: (0212) 277 22 00

The Four Seasons Hotel Bosphorus spa is now offering products from the Natura Bissé line. Founded in Barcelona in 1979, Natura Bisseis considered one of the pioneers of anti-ageing skincare products. The spa at the Four Seasons combines modern spa concepts and technologies with Far Eastern philosophies on healing to create a calming environment in which visitors can escape the stresses of city life.

Likewise, Natura Bissé’s Cure collection is designed to counteract the negative effects of modern lifestyles. The C+C Vitamin Line contains protective, antioxidant, and hydrating elements and vitamins to help the skin heal, while the Oxygen Line purifies and decongests the skin and helps undo the damage that polluted city air inflicts on skin. Meanwhile, the Cure Collection is designed specifically to counteract the negative impacts of modern living. To treat yourself to the ultimate luxury experience, you can combine the traditional treatments of a Turkish hammam bath with the modern technology offered by Natura Bissé’s products.

How was Yesilist born?

Georgie Benardete and I were the ambassadors of Al Gore’s Climate Project in Istanbul. We were actively involved in projects in which we could inform the public about climate change, explaining how each and every one of us can be a part of the solution. During this time, we researched about Turkey’s organic map, trying to figure out the where and how of organic and natural products in the country. During the process, we thought that if we’re searching this, there must be other people who want to find out about organic producers as well. And that’s how the idea behind Yeşilist was born in 2010.

What does Yeşilist aim to achieve?

We basically wanted people to easily find what they are looking for to lead a nature-friendly life, from organic markets and producers to organic furniture, from energy-efficient electronics to organic skincare to yoga and detox centers. Our content, however, has become much more dynamic since the website was first founded, and thus we have taken on the role of a guide in addition to being just a directory per se. There was one thing that we kept on coming across in our interactions with the public. Many people were asking the same question: But how can I be green when I lead such an urban lifestyle? This is the overlapping concern that many Istanbulites have. And our motto is that you can be green by doing very simple things and taking small steps, from turning off your computer when leaving the house to opting to use a tote instead of plastic bags when shopping. At the moment, we’re trying to help establish the Turkish organic market. When we were setting up Yeşilist, we found out that there are many organic producers in Turkey but they export their products, so there’s very little left for the local consumer. And thus the prices are very high. We’re also trying to inform the consumer, showing them what’s green out there and the resources that they have available. Turkey offers all the resources necessary to lead a green life, people just need to know that they are out there. And that’s where we come in.

The website is in Turkish and English. There are very few content-based websites in Turkey that are bilingual. Why did you feel the need to also have an English section?

There are many expats living in Turkey, and there are millions of tourists coming each year. They know about being green, and when they come to Turkey, they want to be green but have difficulties finding the resources available to them. That’s why we wanted to have an English version of the website, and this section became active only a few months ago. We update the Turkish version daily, but update the English one once a week or once every fortnight. The entire directory is available in English, but the dynamic content is only available in Turkish, unless there is something very special that we want to translate.

What does it mean to be green?

It’s a holistic way of life. Most of the time, we feel separate from nature, but in fact we’re not. Whatever we do, however we act, comes back to us through water and air. So we can be green with our choices. We can choose to use public transportation instead of driving a car, we can recycle, use water efficiently, not overuse air conditioners or heaters, and learn to be okay with wearing a sweater in the house during winter in the process. We can pay attention to what we eat, and make sure that what we buy is local, seasonal, and organic – all of these decrease our carbon imprint. We need to be conscious consumers and try to avoid unbounded consumption because whatever we consume uses up valuable resources. The smallest steps can make the biggest impacts so all we need to do is be smart consumers and make the right choices. Being aware is the least we can do.

What do you do to be green in Istanbul?

I’m sure that there are people who are more green than I am. I use public transportation as often as I can, I recycle, I try to avoid wastefulness and do compotes, I try not to use plastic. I buy organic. I pay a lot of attention to the choices that I make. For example, I pay close attention to how we use water and electricity.

Does Istanbul provide all that is necessary to lead a green life?

We have everything we need in Istanbul. But there is the issue of information, awareness, and access. There are more opportunities now than before. For example, there are a lot of organic bazaars. There are a limited number of green areas but there are still enough. But we forget that they are out there, we’re so used to thinking that Istanbul doesn’t have any green spaces that we don’t even see what’s in front of our eyes. If we look carefully, we’ll see that there is a lot out there. For example, each municipality offers numerous services like picking up recycled materials, from paper to an old refrigerator, from your doorstep.

Do you think that contemporary art pays enough attention to ecological issues?

Contemporary art may not directly focus on issues around nature, climate change, and ecology but ecology and humans are intertwined, so whenever you create something for humans, you’re also creating something for the environment. For example, contemporary art often tackles issues surrounding women. Women’s empowerment is vital because women play a significant role in creating a green life for their families. Women are the ones who bring up children, so the more aware a mother is the more aware the child will be. Everything that increases the quality of life for humans is eventually a green activity.

Can you tell us a little bit about the Green Drinks Istanbul event?

We’ve been organizing Istanbul leg of Green Drinks since 2009. It’s a networking event that brings together people who have green jobs, who lead green lives, and those who want to be more aware of green activities. The event is held every month, either on the last Tuesday or Wednesday of the month. The crowd is made up all sorts of people. The concept might come off as very hippie but we have a wide range of people coming to these events, from students and young professionals to Greenpeace activists and expats. We get anything from 20 people to 100 people coming to any given event, and there are always at least 5-10 foreigners.

What is Yeşilist planning for the future?

We have a range of different plans, one of which is every exciting. We’re aiming to organize a green festival. We’ll have more details about it soon.

Ergem’s Istanbul:

Favorite restaurant: Kantin, Lokanta Maya, Kıyı

Favorite green area: Belgrade Forest, the Princes’ Islands

Favorite green activity: Taking a walk in the forest with my daughter

Favorite museum/gallery: Istanbul Archeological Museums, Istanbul Modern

Favorite neighborhood: Yeşilköy, Nişantaşı, Eminönü, Beyoğlu

Favorite green architectural piece: The aqueduct built by MimarSinan

What you love about Istanbul: Old historical buildings

What you don’t like about Istanbul: Traffic and the destruction of green areas

Chill Out Festival

The twelve-hour Chill Out Festival will feature world-famous Senegalese songwriter and guitar player Baaba Maal, Alice Russell with the Colombian band Combo Barbaro, Quantic, Jazzanova, The Cuban Brothers, Italian lounge music pros the Montefiori Cocktail feat Amber Topaz, folk revivalist hippie trio Stealing Sheep, and local duo Mao Mak.

Babylon Soundgarden Festival

Among the natural elements of the Parkorman venue, this year’s Babylon Soundgarden Festival will feature four bands: The Parov Stelar Band, Oi Va Voi, Caravan Palace, and Büyük Ev Ablukada.

Burn Electronica Festival

This year’s Burn Electronica Festival will bring top level world class acts such as Markus Schulz, Crookers, Hercules and Love Affair, Who Made Who, W&W and Kaiserdisco who will be presenting their acts to more than 85,000 young fans ready to dance to the beats of their turntables and mixers

Pozitif Günler

Two Door Cinema Club and Metronomy will close the Pozitif Günler festival at the Küçükçiftlik Park, bringing some of the energizing indie rock sounds that have captivated audiences in some of last year’s biggest festivals, such as Coachella and Glastonbury.

Mono Festival

The Mono Festival, hosted by Pozitif Live, will have four different stages featuring Gogol Bordello,Metric, Oh Land, The Ringo Jets, and The Horrors on the first stage. Com Truise, Bok Bok, and Grup Ses Beats on the second, while the third stage will play a mix of reggae, lounge, and chillwave mix, and the last stage, will feature the famous Dinamo FM DJs.

Tuborg Goldfest

The Tuborg Goldfest will host a riveting mixture of bands that will inhabit the stage this year. Most notably, Guns N’Roses will perform the songs that made them one of the most important bands of the 1990s rock scene. The riotous female voice of Evanescence will also add another layer to the festival, which will go on for three days and feature a large selection of other bands.

What started off as a tiny corner köfteci in 1980 became a meatball legend that is now situated in a two-story restaurant. It’s a locale that attracts anyone who knows how to appreciate a humble yet divinely delicious serving of meatballs.

An ideal spot for a quick lunch or dinner with a couple of friends or family, Ali Baba is a humble neighborhood eatery where love of meatballs is shared over at leastbi buçuk porsiyon (one and a half portions of meatballs). The typical Ali Baba dinner starts with piyaz, a classic Turkish salad made with white beans, diced tomatoes, and onions. First, the dried oregano and red pepper is generously sprinkled on top, followed by a desired amount of olive oil, vinegar, and lemon. Then, a piece of the freshest bread is dipped in, marking the first juicy bite of the night that tests whether the perfect piyaz consistency has been reached. Once a colossal smile takes over the face, the guests dive in for the first forkful.

In no time, the sizzling portion of soft and juicy meatballs fresh off the grill is served with tomato wedges and onions. Many customers will order a second portion, or at least half a portion, of these addictive little things. You can eat it plain or make it into a little sandwich. You can order it as dürüm (wrap) as well.

Any meal at Ali Baba will end with a complimentary glass of tea. And if you like, you can go for the Kemal Pasa tatlısı (a syrupy dessert made with cheese, flour, semolina halvah, and eggs) or irmik (semolina halvah). But rest assured that it’s the melt-in-your-mouth delicious meatballs that will keep you coming back to Ali Baba.

Köfteci Ali Baba, Arnavutköy Mahallesi Arnavutköy Bebek Caddesi No.69, Arnavutköy; P: (0212) 263 13 61

Located in the Üsküdar district at the base of the bridge, this area used to be called Kozinitsa, while the current name translates literally as “little raven” in Turkish. Kuzguncuk was once home to many of the Jews who settled in the Ottoman Empire following their expulsion from Spain in the 15th century. In fact, it is estimated that as many as 10,000 Jews lived here at one point, with the result that the area was sometimes referred to as Little Jerusalem. Armenians began moving into the area in the 18th century. There was also a large Greek community, evident from the original Greek name and multiple churches. Indeed, there were so few Muslim Turks living in this area that there was no mosque here until 1952.

Unfortunately, the neighborhood’s history of tolerance and multiculturalism came to an abrupt end during the notorious riots that engulfed Istanbul in 1955. These bloody riots were triggered by the false rumor that the Turkish consulate in Thessaloniki, which was also the house in which Ataturk was born, had been bombed. Violent mobs waged an assault on the city’s Greek residents in their churches, businesses, and homes, resulting in dozens of deaths. Businesses and homes owned by Armenians and Jews were also targets of these attacks, as the sentiment was not just anti-Greek, but against all minorities.

These riots were part of a broader trend of Turkification, a nationalistic movement that strove to do away with Istanbul’s minority residents. Istanbul’s minorities had already been hard hit by the 1942 wealth tax, and as a consequence of these riots, an already-underway emigration trend was rapidly accelerated as the city’s Greeks, Armenians, and Jews began to emigrate en masse.

Over the years following the exodus of the area’s long established minorities, the ethnic make-up of the area changed drastically, as immigrants from Anatolia moved into what had now become cheap housing. Many of the current residents hail from the Black Sea region. Today, the neighborhood is known for being one of the areas most heavily affected by the 1955 riots as much as it is known for its pretty quaint houses.

Nevertheless, despite the drastic changes that have taken place, Kuzguncuk is still revered as a traditional neighborhood or mahalle where Turkish traditions live on, and as a place where neighborliness and old-fashioned values prevail. While there are very few minorities who still live here, the churches and main synagogue are still functional. Even Christians and Jews who live in other parts of the city come to Kuzguncuk for religious services on the weekends.

Today, the area is experiencing something of a renaissance. Walking around, you can see signs of the gentrification that has been going on for years, as many of the homes have been restored and cafés opened.Over the past decade, the area has become very popular with expats, artists, and writers, many of whom are drawn to the neighborhood’s cosmopolitan past. Foreigners wandering around don’t elicit the same number of curious stares that they do in many other parts of Istanbul.

The nostalgic neighborhood feel and pretty wooden gingerbread houses have made the neighborhood very popular as a set for Turkish television series, many of which have been filmed here. Walking the streets, you feel like you are in a bit of a time warp. The area is remarkably quiet, despite its proximity to bustling Üsküdar. A visit to Kuzguncuk is best spent strolling around the streets and climbing up the hills to enjoy the view over the Bosphorus. You can pop into one of the small shops and enjoy a meal at one of the area’s restaurants or cafés.

Walking along the waterfront, you will notice a small square right on the water, where the locals sit, sipping cups of tea. On this little square you’ll find one of the older restaurants,İsmet Baba, a simple and traditional meyhane serving seafood and rakı. A little further along the coastal road, you’ll find the imposing Armenian Surp Krikor Lusavoriç Church, whose current structure was built in 1861. Also located on the coastal road is the Üryanizade Mosque with its carved wooden minaret, which was originally built as a mescit (a small prayer room) in 1860.

Walking up the main street, Icadiye Caddesi, you’ll see the Beth Ya’akov Synagogue, which was originally built as a summer services synagogue in 1878. Today, it is the only synagogue that still functions in Kuzguncuk, with former residents who have moved to other parts of the city coming here on weekends to keep the synagogue from closing. Further up the street, you’ll find the massive Church of Hagios Panteleimon, which was built in 1821 on the site of a church dating back to 550 during the reign of Emperor Justinian, lending it a reputation as one of the oldest churches still in use in Istanbul. The beautiful domed bell tower was added in 1911, as you can tell from its different architectural style.

If you climb up the steep hills, you will find the Nakkaştepe Jewish Cemetery, one of the largest Jewish cemeteries in the city, with gravestones in both Hebrew and Ladino, some dating back to the 15th and 16th centuries. Up on the hill, you will also find the Abdülmecid Efendi Köşk, a historical wooden mansion originally built as a hunting lodge in the 1870s. Very much a gilded cage, this mansion was home to Abdülmecid Efendi, the cousin of Sultan Abdülhamid II, who banished him to this building, forbidding him to enter Istanbul. Neo-Turkish in design, it is surrounded by a large garden and is today owned by the Yapı Kredi Bank.

Kuzguncuk also offers a number of welcoming restaurants and cafés. One of the most popular restaurants in the area is called Kosinitza, and features charming oldfashioned décor and a sophisticated European-influenced menu that is heavy on seafood. For traditional Turkish food and home cooking, visit Ekmek Teknesi, where you can enjoy freshly baked pide and an assortment of kebabs. If you want to snack while you stroll, pop into the Yunus Emre Odun Ekmek Fırın bakery, where you can pick up an assortment of freshly baked breads and pastries.

A standout among the many cafés in the area is Ilya Café, a wonderfully cozy little venue that is housed in a small building adjacent to the Church of Hagios Panteleimon. This artfully decorated café features a simple daily menu of freshly prepared soups, salads, snacks, and cakes, and is run by the friendly and knowledgeable Arzu Hanım, who picked the name as a tribute to a former Greek resident. If you want to check out one of the small local galleries, Harmony Sanat is noteworthy, while Bir Kuzguncuk Dükkanı is a shop carrying an assortment of gift items designed by Turkish artists.

Given its rich and unique history, it comes as no surprise that Kuzguncuk elicits a very strong sense of identity and pride from those who live here and even those who lived here long ago. The area is revered by both current and past residents, who are rightly very proud of the neighborhood’s special history, sense of community, and neighborliness. While there are some today who consider it historically revisionist to depict the past as such an idyllic era of peaceful diversity, there can be no doubt that Kuzguncuk was an exceptionally tolerant neighborhood where coexistence and neighborliness dominated.

Today, there is also a small trend of old Kuzguncuk residents starting to move back to the area, although this is just a tiny trickle at the moment. However, if the area’s gentrification and popularity with expats continues, in ten years’ time Kuzguncuk could be the Cihangir of the Asian side. But for the moment it remains what it has been for years: a traditional neighborhood where time moves slowly, and where residents are happy to stop and chat and share the unique history of their beloved neighborhood.

Address Book:

Surp Krikor Lusavoric Church; Çarşı Caddesi No.49 Kuzguncuk; P: (0216) 341 50 02

Beth Ya’akov Synagogue; Icadiye Caddesi No.9 Kuzguncuk

Church of Hagios Panteleimon; Icadiye Caddesi No.82 Kuzguncuk

Kosinitza; Bereketli Sokak No. 2/A Kuzguncuk; P: (0216) 334 04 00

Yunus Emre Odun Ekmek Fırın bakery; Icadiye Caddesi No.24/A Kuzguncuk; P: (0216) 310 52 01

Ilya Café; Bican Efendi Sokak No.1A Kuzguncuk; P: (0216) 553 86 90

Harmony Sanat; İcadiye Caddesi No.42A Kuzguncuk;P: (0216) 553 21 67

Bir Kuzguncuk Dükkanı; İcadiye Caddesi No.40A Kuzguncuk; P: (0216) 5329691

The two-story coffee shop is furnished with vintage-looking chairs, tables, lamps, and posters, plus a variety of nostalgic objects. The mood here is very pseudo-European, with groups of artists passionately discussing their latest project creating a feel that is reminiscent of Café de Flore circa 1945. There are also the freshly in love couples, sitting a breath away from each other, sipping coffee and getting lost in each other’s eyes. The soft jazz, the New Yorker magazines on the tables, and the men with the artist stamp of a full grown bear and glasses give this meeting spot a decidedly urban and artsy spin.

Karaköy locals and Istanbul’s hipster population like hanging out at this Austrian café, where checkered floors, colorful walls, and the soothing music create a linger-friendly vibe. The feel-at-home comfort is multiplied in the form of an apple pie or a cup of Wiener Melange. Many frequenters settle in with their morning paper, a cappuccino (served in a little silver tray), and a muffin or croissant, while others head to the Karaköy hotspot in the evening to enjoy their entrees, like the Schnitzel (chicken or beef), the Frankfurter, or Penne Pesto.

The success of this neighborhood fixture can be attributed to its location in the hottest Istanbul neighborhood, the zealous gourmet coffee selection, and the tasty dishes that equally serve coffee drinkers and diners. More than 40 different coffee varieties overwhelm the coffee selection, from classics like Espresso and Café Latte to Julius specialties like Franziskaner (espresso with cream) and Einspanner (double espresso, black coffee, steamed cream, topped with whipped Cream). A limited menu of mains and sandwiches, breakfast treats like pancake and omelets, plus the nearly twenty kinds of desserts make Julius much more than just a corner coffee shop.

With its warm and welcoming mood, this is the place to linger, to read a book, to grab a friend for a lingering tête-à-tête. If you’re by yourself, the upstairs area is ideal for you, your cup of coffee, and your favorite book. If you’re on a let’s-get-to-know-each-other date, keep it downstairs, perhaps outside enjoying the breeze. If you’re with a group of friends, consider sitting in the area in the back – you’ll have a lot more space to yourself and the roaring laughers won’t interrupt the other customers.

Julius Meinl/Karabatak Karaköy,Kemankeş Karamustafa Paşa Mahallesi Kara Ali Kaptan Sokak No.7, Karaköy; P: (0212) 243 69 93

This multiple award-winning documentary traces Istanbul’s transformation in the last thirty years, beginning by explaining how various studies done in the 1980s by the World Bank and other international entities showed that government officials must limit Istanbul’s population to no more than 5 million and create various industrial centers in Turkey for migrants. The population of Istanbul at the time was of 3.5 million people. A general lack of urban and regional planning and a concerted effort of making Istanbul a world-class financial megacity led to the situation where millions of migrants are now settled in poorly constructed slums (gecekondu) around the city, dramatically increasing Istanbul’s population to a staggering 15 million. This put an unbearable pressure to the city’s resources, and from Azem’s perspective, this ticking time bomb of mounting social and economic pressures will lead to a situation of “chaos” in the near future.

From the construction of the undersea rail tunnel Marmaray and third bridge projects to the constantly decreasing green spaces, Ekümenopolis puts the finger on various ecological and social issues. The main argument is that the unbounded growth of the city is dangerous on many levels, and this is communicated by using two different levels of discourse. First, the filmmaker interviews city architects, urban planners, environmental engineers, economists, and sociologists to get an intellectual perspective on the city’s issues. They all explain, with examples and statistics, the collision course the city is headed to. Then, the film takes the audience to various city slums to talk with the many urban dwellers that are directly affected by many of the government’s poorly planned urban policies. The story of a group of 15 families living by the Atatürk Olympic Stadium in the neighborhood of Altınşehir who lost their homes to the government’s zoning policies is particularly interesting as it portrays the microcosm of the struggles and tribulations of migrants in a hostile environment.

With an imposing photography and a beautiful soundtrack that tries to be as encompassing as the interviews in capturing the sights and sounds of the city, Ekümenopolis does a pretty good job of raising awareness on Istanbul’s social and ecological future. The film invites the audience to rethink Istanbul in terms of renewable and sustainable development by stepping outside the profit-driven mindset that has governed city planning for the past three decades. For those who care about Istanbul and its future, this film is a definite must-see.

This stylish boutique hotel combines the comfort of a hotel with the relaxation of home. The rooms include amenities such as hydro-massaging bathtubs. The hotel’s restaurant has also been revamped under the direction of “taste designer” Maksut Aşkar.8 Istanbul Suits; Kuloğlu Mahallesi Gazeteci Erol Dernek Sokak No.1 Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 249 89 30

Cartier has recently re-launched their “Juste un Clou” collection, which translates as “Just a Nail”. This classic yet modern collection features bracelets of solid gold topped with a flat head, transforming hardware into elegant jewelry.

The “Juste un Clou” collection is available in yellow, white, or pink gold, natural or encrusted with diamonds. Originally designed for Cartier in the 1970s by Aldo Cipullo, the first nail bracelet was inspired by the wild nightlife of New York in the ’70s and the iconic Studio 54. Cartier’s modern take on this chic bracelet is available in two sizes, for him and her.

Raised in South Africa and of Greek descent, he has lived and traveled all over the world, and is a frequent visitor to Istanbul. Recently, Peter has become very well known for his talk “Rebrand Greece”, which outlines his ideas on how to change perceptions of the country and once again make it a respected world player. The video of this talk went viral on the internet, we hope to one day see a similar talk from Peter on how Istanbul could rebrand its own image.

Peter has a truly global perspective. His work is focused on change, the strategic responses to shifting cultures, and the challenges of regional and global expansion. What better person to ask about his views on Istanbul – a city that is constantly changing.

Have you spent much time in Istanbul?

Istanbul is one of my favorite cities. It is also a place where I have some great friends. Yes, I have spent much time in Istanbul.

When did you first visit, and have you been back often?

I first visited in 1984, shortly after I moved to Athens from Hong Kong. I visited again many times during the 1980s. In 1999, I moved back to Athens from New York. Since then, I have been a very frequent visitor.

What was your first impression of Istanbul?

I remember my first impressions vividly. We stayed at the Pera Palace Hotel. Things I remember are: the old floating bridge with the restaurants on the bottom level; of course, the Grand Bazaar; an old Russian restaurant in Beyoğlu (I do not know if it is still there); Körfez Restaurant; and the best Imam Bayıldı, which I had at Park Şamdan. I also remember the streets in Sultanahmet. The smell of coal fires burning and the crazy maze of electrical wires going across the streets. Oh, and also an antique dealer in Nişantaşı called Portakal. I bought some watches there .... I collect watches.

Has that impression changed significantly over subsequent visits?

Many of the things I remember from my first visit are no longer there. And I have discovered other sides of Istanbul since then. Of course, Istanbul has changed to become one of the most exciting and dynamic cities in the world. Much has changed. Most importantly, though, my friends have shown me aspects of Istanbul I would never have discovered without them.

What do you like most about the city?

The Bosphorus. And the layers of culture which are visible everywhere. And this incredible mixture of Europe and the Orient.

What do you least like?

The traffic.

What are your favorite neighborhoods or areas in Istanbul?

Bebek and Beyoğlu.

What is your favorite view in the city?

Anywhere on the Bosphorus. And, of course, the view across the Golden Horn towards Sultanahmet, especially during sunset.

What are your favorite Turkish foods?

I am Greek, so I love most Turkish food. But my favorite is Imam Bayıldı.

What are your favorite restaurants?

Zuma, Bebek Balıkçı, Hünkar, Papermoon, and Körfez (when it was open). And my memory of Park Şamdam, though I have never been back there since the first time in the 1980s.

Do you have any nightlife spots that you enjoy?

The nightclub Şamdan was always a favorite. I have spent many late nights there.

What is your favorite museum or historical site in Istanbul?

Aya Sofya(Hagia Sophia). And the Istanbul Modern Museum of Modern Art.

Do you have a favorite holiday destination in Turkey outside of Istanbul?

Bodrum and the coastal area around it. I love Knidos.

As someone who has lived in many different cities and countries, what do you find to be unique about Istanbul?

The mix. The contrasts. Europe and Asia, divided by the Bosphorus. The incredible villages leading up to the Black Sea. The layers of culture: Ancient, Byzantine, Ottoman, Modern. The mix between European and Oriental. Contrasts, contrasts, in harmony...

As a brand strategist, what do you think that Istanbul should do to improve its global appeal to both visitors and investors?

Istanbul is a conversation in a world that needs conversation. A conversation between the past, the present, and the future. Between Asia and Europe. Between Islam and secularism. Between the Aegean coast and Anatolia. Between tradition and modernity. Good conversation is lively, it consists of thesis and antithesis. But it always results in synthesis. This is Istanbul for me. And I think that is a valuable and special role in today’s world. This is how Istanbul can improve its image. By truly expressing what it is. Because what it is is truly special.

You have been in Istanbul many times. How do you like the city? Is performing here different than performing in other cities?

It absolutely is, because there is a story behind it. We had our first international concert with Parov Stelar & Band in Istanbul, so it is absolutely an honor for us to come back and play here!

We would like to learn a bit more about Parov Stelar. Where does the name come from?

There is no big story behind it, I was searching on the net for some combination of words, which haven’t been used by anybody else so far and that sounded good. In the end, Parov Stelar was the result and I hope you like it.

Austria is known for its great classical musicians. Where did the inspiration for making electro-swing music come from?

Since my start as a DJ, there have been a lot of different musicians and genres that influenced me as a person and also my career as a musician. So it is important for me to try new styles, I think it would be boring to always do the same thing.

I do not really think that there is a direct connection with Austria in terms of my influences. I don’t think you can categorize music, because the word “music” is something universal, which is independent of age, sex, or origin. Overall, the most important thing for me is to transmit emotions.

Which artists have influenced your music the most?

There are a lot of different influences, if I had to point some out of them they would be: Jeff Parker, Portishead, and Muse.

What got you started as a DJ? Were there any specific artists or moments that drove you to engage with electronic music?

It happened more or less by accident. I worked as a graphic artist and I designed some flyers for techno events and clubs and finally had the chance to get involved with the music scene step-by-step, starting with some production trials.

Recently you have transitioned from DJing to performing live as a band. How was that transition? What drove you to include live musicians on your set?

It was not really a decision, more of a process. At the beginning of my music career I started on my own. By traveling around, playing concerts and working with different people, I got in touch with a lot of interesting and talented artists. So finally I “found” the right people to form a band with, so it was basically more a logical process to invent the “Parov Stelar Band”, than a decision.

What’s your favorite part about playing with a live band?

Playing live shows is generally the best way to pass on the feeling and power of our music to our fans, because live shows include a kind of “live experience,” and the exciting fact is that on stage, there is just one chance to play a song in its best quality.

What do you always carry with you when you are on the road?

My iPhone and my band.

Tell us a little about your new album, The Princess? How is it different from your previous albums?

All of my albums have a certain connection with each other of course, but it is not like you can say that this is “Godfather, Part 3” or anything like that. It is natural for an artist to produce something new on the next record, but it’s also important to ensure that the artist’s style and handwriting is easily recognizable on a new piece.

One very important difference is that it took me a lot longer to finish, or I rather gave myself more time to finish it, than the albums before. Two and a half years to be exact. It was originally planned for the album to be released much earlier, but this time I decided to wait long enough until I could happily and confidently say: “Now I am finished”. “The Princess” is less experimental than “Shine” or “Seven and Storm.” It is important that the different stages in my life and the experiences, which I have been through, are recognizable in my songs. This is why there are so many different influences and approaches on this album.

You’ve also established your own record label (Etage Noir) and work as a producer. Can you tell us a little about the Etage Noir experience.

Not “only” being a musician but also having your own label is a lot of responsibility. But of course the most positive effect is that I am my own boss and can decide, which kind of music I’d like to release and when I’d like to produce a new album. But it would not be possible without having a lot of people who know how to work independently and take responsibility for all the decisions during the time I am away for business meetings or touring. So I am more than grateful to have the right co-workers that help me be the artist Parov Stelar and also the owner of the label Etage Noir recordings.

It is also great to give other bands the possibility to do their own music, play shows, and produce songs. There are so many great artists, just to point some of them out, you should listen so some songs of A-G Trio or La Rochelle. We also show our great support for DJs like Pat Poree or Alex Ryba, we love to take them with us on tour.

If you were on a deserted island and you could bring five records with you, what would you bring?

Daft Punk - Homework

Portishead - Dummy

Moby - Play

Jeff Parker - Triple Best

Muse - The Resistance

What should your Istanbul fans look forward to in your performance on the 26th of May? What will the set include?

They can expect an amazing live show where we will present our new album “The Princess.” So do not forget to wear your dancing shoes and be ready for some blisters while you enjoy yourself. The concert will be the time for people to stop thinking about problems of the following day and just have a good time with good music and a great atmosphere. We are looking forward having a great party all together.

Fiction spilling into the real world is the theme, and apart from the objects in the museum, including household items and personal effects among others, it is also Kemal’s obsession that has become palpable in the man who created him. Pamuk’s own urge to collect objects related to the life of his novel is the driving force for the resulting space dedicated to a time that has long since passed and characters only readers know intimately.

The museum is composed of 83 glass displays of varying sizes that correlate with a chapter in the book, including a whole case displaying Fusun’s more than 4000 lipstick stained cigarette butts arranged in chronological order. The museum can be viewed Tuesday through Sunday between 10am and 6pm and is located in the Çukurcuma district. Çukurcuma Caddesi No: 24, Çukurcuma; P: 0212 252 9738

Bavarian Cream at Emporio Armani Ristorante: Indulge in something sweet at IstinyePark’s classy Italian restaurant Emporio Armani Ristorante. We suggest the delicious Baverese (Bavarian White Chocolate). IstinyePark Shopping Mall, Istinye Bayırı Caddesi No. 73, İstinye; P: (0212) 345 61 40

Künefe at Ali Baba: You can make a day out of Sunday, May 13th, and take your mother to Büyükada. Have dinner at Ali Baba, one of the best fish restaurants on the island, and top it off with one of the classic Turkish desserts, künefe (cheese-filled dessert with a shredded wheat base).

Katmer at Zerafet: Enjoy this Antep dessert at one of Istanbul’s best kebab restaurants ZerafEt. It’s made of very thin baklava dough,Turkish clotted cream, covered with a generous bed of crumbled pistachios, and served with vanilla ice-cream. Adnan Saygun Caddesi Leylah Apartmanı No.1 14/B, Ulus; P: (0212) 352 60 75

Kup Griye at Baylan: Baylan is one of the oldest and most established patisseries in Istanbul, and its name is almost synonymous with their special dessert Kup Griye. Made with vanilla and caramel ice-cream, whipped cream, caramel sauce, and honey & almond crocan, this dessert has even inspired a fan page of its own! Cevdet Paşa Caddesi No.52-54, Bebek; P: (0212) 358 07 60

Dondurmalı Irmik Helvası at Hünkar: İrmik helvası(semolina helvah) is a classic Turkish dessert, which is made slightly differently at Hünkar with the addition of milk and a secret ingredient that turns this dessert into creamy perfection. Watch out for the vanilla ice-cream that juts out with your first spoonfull. Mim Kemal Öke Caddesi No.21, Nişantaşı; P: (0212) 225 46 65

Mousse au chocolat at Le Fumoir: A glass of champagne and a very very good mousse au chocolat is a simply divine experience at Galata’s hottest spot Le Fumoir. Serdar-ı Ekrem Sokak No.24, Galata; P: (0212) 244 24 23

Tiramisu at Antica Locanda: You can’t beat a well done classic, like the Tiramisu at Arnavutköy’s cozy Italian restaurant Antica Locanda. Satış Meydanı No.12, Arnavutköy; P: (0212) 287 97 45

A recent example of this was the classical music concert that was held on Monday, May 7th at the construction site of Nef Offices 05 in Levent. The soon-to-be plaza’s construction site was home to an orchestra that played pieces by Bach and Mozart to the public’s amazement. The event, which was free and open to the public, was received very well by the crowd of professionals working in nearby offices. In addition to those who came to the construction site to watch the concert up close, there were many who were watching from within the offices of nearby buildings.

During Monday’s concert, it was not just the music but the idea behind the event that made the extraordinary lunch break so special. The concert was organized in order to try and make up for all the unpleasant construction noise that’s been polluting the area for the past few months. We sure hope to see more examples like this in Istanbul.

Rose tea: You’ve heard about the famous apple tea, and probably bought it at the Egyptian Bazaar. You’ve drank brewed tea at most of the restaurants that you’ve been to in Istanbul. But you probably haven’t tried out rose tea, which not only looks absolutely romantic but also tastes great. Buy a bag of dried rose buds (you can get 100gr for 15 TL at Arifoğlu, and can find it at Zencefil Aktar as well), add 2-3 buds into a cup of boiling water. Let it brew for a few minutes and enjoy.

Rose Flavored Turkish Delight: Pistachio-filled Turkish Delights are to die for. No question there. But the rose-flavored ones, with their pink jelly-cious interior and dusty exterior make a delicate, elegant, and delicious little dessert. Only for 7 TL a box at Malatya Pazarı.

Rose jam: Have it for breakfast with cheese, add a spoonful in yogurt for a sweet snack, or top it on top of a piece of buttery bread for a lighter dessert. Buy a jar for 6 TL at Kafkas and savor it the way you like.

Rose water: Rose water is used for cooking as well as skin care. Rose is very beneficial for the skin as it has rejuvenating qualities. You can buy the all-natural Rosense brand rosewater for 9.90 TL at Arifoğlu and use it as your daily skin care product. (Rosense brand carries a range of other rose products for skin and body care.) Cihangir’s Vie En Rose is sort of a modern-day apothecary selling essential oils, soaps, and creams, and rose is the primary ingredient used in their products. Take your pick from their range, from organic rose water to rose cream and rose facial scrub (20 - 40TL). You can also find a variety of rose products for skin and body care, such as massage and body oil, Japanese incense, hand wash, body lotion, bath salt, and soap (15 TL - 85 TL) at Simple Life.

Gülabdan: Gülabdan is an Ottoman-era pear-shaped bottle, often made of silver or ceramics, which was used to pour or sprinkle rose water. An almost forgotten object today, during Ottoman times, gülabdan was used to offer rose water to houseguests, a revered tradition at the time. You may not necessarily use it for the same purpose now, but it certainly makes for a great decorative object or gift. You can find it at silverware stores at the Grand Bazaar, such as Süren Gümüşçü, or you can search for it at antique stores. Paşabahçe also has one in their Ottoman collection (it’s a limited edition). The prices for gülabdan are quite high, ranging around 400-600 TL.

Rose Candle: Lokum Istanbul is famous the world over, especially for its Turkish delights. (And this is no exaggeration considering its first international branch opened in London a few months ago.) Among the unique range of scents of Lokum’s candles, you’ll find what’s called Rumi’s Rose, sold for 35 TL. Light it up, inhale the rose in, and relax. While you’re shopping at Lokum Istanbul, make sure you take a look at their rose-flavored akide şekeri (traditional hard candy), sold for 48 TL.

Rose-flavored ice-cream: Move the chocolate, the vanilla, and the caramel aside, and go straight for the rose next time you’re out for a cone of ice-cream. We suggest you head to Istanbul Culinary Institute’s restaurant Enstitü, or to Bebek’s organic ice-cream shop Migone for a scoop.

Rose Parfait: Müzedechanga is an Istanbul classic, and now that the weather is warm enough, it’s the perfect spot for a rose dessert. Next time you’re there, try their Wafer Halva and Rose Parfait Sandwich with Strawberry & Raspberry Sauce – it’s a perfect mix of crunchiness, coolness, and sweetness. (Available only during summer, starting in June.)

Rose Petal Pudding Recipe: Try your hand at a dish made of roses. This Rose Petal Pudding Recipe, by Gönül Paksoy, is a beautifully-presented, tasty delight perfect for summer parties.

The Happy Hour concept is a foreign-inspired theme and has just begun to take part in the city’s nightlife scene. As such, we did the research for you and found bars, cafes, and restaurants that host the Happy Hour crowd:

Bej Kahve

We don’t have to say much about Bej Kahve’s Saturday Happy Hour party, because the entire Karaköy neighborhood is witness to the boisterous exclamation of its crowd. The party takes place from 5-9pm and features house music and a full list of cocktails, including favorites such as the margarita and the vodka martini made with thyme. Kemankeş Caddesi Fransız Geçidi No.11, Karaköy; P: (0212) 251 71 95

Tag Cafe

Another neighborhood outside-drinking-parade, Tag Cafe features a Happy Hour every day (except Fridays and Saturdays) from 5-7pm with a 20\% discount on all drinks. Make sure to drop by Friday and Saturday nights as well, even if there is no discount, the party goes on until the morning hours. İstiklal Caddesi Postacılar Sokak No.1/A, Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 243 68 62

Cento per Cento

Every Saturday beginning at 4pm the Happy Hour begins at Cento per Cento with local and international party music and a new addition to the cocktail list such as Passion Vodka made with passion fruit (as the name implies). Abdi Ipekci Caddesi, Zati Apartmani, No:36, Nişantaşı; P: 0212 2326202

Den Cafe

Another Nişantaşı spot, Den Cafe offers an Aperitivo event every Thursday from 6-9pm with music, delicious cocktails, and a free hors deuvres buffet. Make sure to grab a seat outside to enjoy the end of another day with a drink in your hand. Mim Kemal Öke Caddesi No. 1/D, Nişantaşı; P: (0212) 224 24 70

Kiki

Kiki offers both Aperitivo and Happy Hour under one roof (and garden). Every Monday and Wednesday the slightly claustrophobic nighttime hipster hideout offers a Happy Hour from 7-9pm with 50\% off all drinks. Tuesday and Thursday means Aperitivo from 7-9pm with a free open buffet of hot and cold tapas. Siraselviler Caddesi No:42, Cihangir; P: (0212) 243 53 73

Dai Pera

Every day between 5-8pm, Dai Pera offers a 20\% discount on all their alcoholic beverages, including homemade cocktails like red or white Sangria, Caipiroska, and Apple Martini among many others. Make sure to not tumble down the slightly steep descending cobblestone street, where the bar is located, on your way out. Yeni Çarşı Caddesi 54, Galatasaray; P: (0212) 252 8099

½ cup food quality fresh rose petals

¾ cup water

1 tsp lemon juice

2 cups milk

¼ cup rice flour

¾ cup sugar

1 tbsp poppy seeds

200 glabne cheese

2 tbsp dried rose petals

Preparation:

1. 4-5 hours before preparing the pudding, rub the rose petals with half of the sugar and refrigerate.

2. Place the rose petals in a pot, add water and cook, stirring occasionally, until the consistency of a sauce is reached. Add lemon juice and allow to cool.

3. In a separate pot, mix the milk and rice flour, ensuring that there are no lumps. Cook on medium heat until it comes to a boil, continuously stirring in the same direction.

4. Lower the heat and simmer until it thickens. Add the rest of the sugar, adjusting the amount to taste.

5. Cook for an additional 4-5 minutes. Then add poppy seeds and labne cheese and stir rigorously.

6. After a few minutes of stirring, add the dried petals, making sure they are evenly dispersed. Pour into a serving bowl, drizzle with the rose petal sauce, and serve.

And that’s why you will be very happy to know that a vintage sunglasses shop called Fashion @ Eye popped up in Karaköy recently, and by the looks of it, it’s here to stay. Located in one of the stores in the Fransız İş Hanı (two shops away from Bej Kahve and Kağıthane), this pop-up shop is owned and operated by a journalist-turned-PR professional-turned image consultant-turned academician-turned, as the Turkish media calls him, the eyewear guru.

The multi-talented and very friendly Hakan San is the son of an optician couple who are also enthusiastic collectors. After working at a variety of other jobs, Hakan kind of fell into that one thing that has made him happy since he was a kid: glasses. Three years ago, he resurrected his father’s collection, and started selling them at a number of events, like the 2010 Freshtival, and also began blogging about his passion (click here to take a look at Hakan’s blog). He even put up a stand in the Feriköy Flea Market but he closed it down after realizing that the market wasn’t the place for vintage sunglasses. His mother, who wasn’t happy about his PhD son selling glasses from a stand in the market, was, most probably, pretty relieved.

The glasses at this pop-up store, known as Fashion @ Eye, are sought after by you, me, famous TV stars, and anyone who is into the cool and the vintage. Due to high demand, the collection changes all the time (every two weeks, to be exact), so if you see something you like, you better buy it on the spot. And Hakan makes buying very easy, first with his expertise in what suits your style and face, and secondly with his prices. The most expensive piece in the collection right now is 450TL.

You’ll find very 21^st-century-friendly old and original vintage sunglasses in his collection, mostly from the 70s and 80s. All the glasses have been upgraded to feature UV-protected lenses, and almost all of them have never been worn. Hakan rarely sells second-hand pieces, and if you happen to show interest in such a piece, he’ll let you know. For Hakan, glasses communicate one’s personality and view of the world in a very direct way. And he’s passionate about communicating personal style and individuality through fun pieces. So don’t be surprised when you see a plastic pair (with UV-protection lenses) for 50 TL next to Christian La Croix, Nina Ricci, Silhouette, and Porsche.

Keep an eye out for Hakan and his collection. He has great plans for the future, from opening a permanent shop in his current location to creating a limited collection with a Turkish designer.

Brunch at The Four Seasons Hotel Bosphorus

Four Seasons Bosphorus' Aqua Restaurant is offering a special brunch for mothers that includes a buffet of classic Turkish breakfast dishes, as well as Italian and Asian specialties from the freshest ingredients.175 TL per person with a 50\% discount for ages 6-12. Çırağan Caddesi No. 28, Beşiktaş.For more information and reservations, please call (0212) 381 40 59

Pampering at Divan Puri Spa

Divan Hotel’s Puri Spa will offer a 30\% discount on all massages that include such options as Thai Compression and Aromatherapy among many others. While you are there, try out the Turkish Bath services as well as facials and full body treatments, most notably the chocolate peeling and mask, which will leave your mother feeling reborn. If you are curious what it is like to have a massage at the Divan Puri Spa, you can read about it here. Divan Istanbul Hotel, Asker Ocağı Caddesi No.1, Şişli; P: (0212) 315 56 80 81

Drinks at Les Ambassadeurs, Swissotel

After a relaxing massage or Turkish Bath, head to Swissotel’s Les Ambassadeurs bar, clad in dark mahogany and live music on Fridays and Saturdays, for a well deserved drink, or two, overlooking a view of the Bosphorus. Bayıldım Caddesi No.2, Maçka; P: (0212) 326 11 00

Dinner at Ceylan InterContinental’s City Lights Restaurant

End the special day with dinner and a panoramic view of Istanbul from the top floor of the Ceylan InterContinental Hotel where City Lights Restaurant is located. The black lacquer tables and ribbed wood interior have a futuristic vibe paired with an international menu of dishes. Notable are the Sauteed Sea Scallops and Ravioli with lobster as an appetizer, Organic Duck Breast served with Damson plum purree as the main dish, and the Melon and Rakı sorbet for dessert. Ceylan InterContinental Istanbul Asker Ocağı Caddesi No. 1, Taksim; P: (0212) 368 44 44

Can you tell us a bit about yourself? What do you do? What do you like? What your interests?

I’m a fashion lover. I’m always searching for new information on anything related to it. I studied Fashion Design in Barcelona and I’m now doing my postgraduate studies in Fashion Communication in Milan. Traveling is one of my favorite things in the world. I also have a passion for writing, that’ s why I keep a blog called Fashion Lessons where I try to keep myself (and whoever is interested in reading my work) updated on different subjects related to fashion. One of the things that I enjoy the most is interviewing new talent. I usually speak with young designers on their vision of fashion and design.

When did you visit Istanbul? How long did you stay?

I had the opportunity to visit Istanbul twice. The first time I stayed for 15 days, enough to get a great sense of the city. During that trip, I also went to Cappadocia, which I thought was an amazing and unique place. The second time I was only there for 4 days, leaving with the feeling that it just wasn’t enough.

What were your first impressions of Istanbul?

This city is enchanting. There is so much to see, but most of all to feel, smell, and touch. It’s a city where every place you go astonishes you.

How did you spend your time? Where did you go?

I tried to experience all parts of the city. I went to the historical parts, like Sultanahmet, where I was amazed by the Topkapı Palace, the Blue Mosque, the Basilica Cistern, and the Hagia Sophia. I also went to the trendy places in Nişantaşı and Beyoğlu. And off course the Grand Bazaar, a paradise to buy the most extraordinary pashminas, Turkish delights, and leather goods. This is certainly a shopping experience everyone must have in Istanbul.

Where did you stay?

I stayed at my brother-in-law’s house both times. He is half Turkish, so I’ve had the opportunity to really know the city through a local’s eyes. His Turkish family reflects the kindness and hospitality of Turkish people.

Which aspects of Turkish culture did you like and dislike?

I have to say I have loved every aspect of Turkish culture. It’s very special and full of surprises. I enjoyed the food so much, especially the desserts - baklava is my addiction. I also really enjoyed the aesthetics. For me, as a designer, Istanbul is a city where any designer can find inspiration.

Was there anything about Turkish culture that seemed very similar or very different from your own?

The kindness and hospitality of Turkish people is similar to my culture, and this is what I loved.

What kinds of food did you eat?

Kebab in all its varieties, but my favorite was definitely the iskender kebab. I also tried köfte and the different mezes. I loved having Turkish breakfast with all the cheese, meats, and the delicious bread.

What do you think about the style of Istanbul’s residents? Did you think that certain areas were cooler/hipper than others?

Yes, as any city, Istanbul has places that are more aesthetic, and this reflects in the people as well. I find the people in Istanbul are really stylish. The women I have had the chance to meet are so elegant and effortlessly chic. I have to say that I got amazed by women that could reflect their sense of style regardless their religious beliefs.

Did you visit any shopping malls? If yes, which one did you like the most?

Yes, I went to IstinyePark and found that it’s really American in a good way. It has a variety of stores where you can find anything, from mainstream fashion, such as Zara and Mango, to local brands and luxury brands.

Which Turkish designers do you like?

I must say I absolutely love Erdem Moralıoğlu, whose father is Turkish, as well as his designs. He has a broad vision on femininity, and the clothes that he designs are always very floral and feature printed fabrics, which I think may come from his Turkish background.

What was the hardest part about traveling in Istanbul? How did you overcome this?

I think travelling here is as easy as traveling in any part of Europe.

Any favorite sights, places, neighborhoods?

Reina, Havuzlu, and Kemer Country. I had an incredible experience in Reina. This club is amazing during summer - the people, the music, and most of all the view of the Bosphorus. It’s so cool that some guests arrive with yachts. I really enjoy Istanbul’s nightlife, especially during summer. It’s very chic, and it has the right amount of everything: nice places, cool people, good music, and great drinks.

Any tips and recommendations for future Istanbul visitors?

I would say keep your eyes wide open! Anyone who wants to visit Istanbul must try everything they can because you wouldn’t want to miss a thing in this incredible city.

Take her shopping: Istanbul is the world capital of shopping, thanks to the historic Grand Bazaar that is sprawling with over 4000 shops. Walk around the bazaar to enjoy the humdrum, pick a pashmina together at Sivaslı Istanbul Yazmacısı, browse through the ikat products at Muhlis Günbattı, buy some all-natural bath products at Abdulla (and don’t forget to buy a bottle of pomegranate molasses while you’re there, they’re to die for!), look through the excellent antique collection at Sofa, and have a coffee break at Fes Café (you’ll be amazed at how elegantly they serve Turkish coffee). Last but not least, depending on how your choose to spend the day, enjoy traditional Turkish food at Nar Lokanta.

Spend an artsy day together: Pamper your mom with the works of a prominent artist, the delicious dishes of innovative Turkish chefs, and the piano concert of a Carnegie-Hall-approved pianist. Head to the Sakıp Sabancı Museum in the afternoon on Sunday, and start by touring Rembrandt and the Golden Age of Dutch Art. Then enjoy dinner at the contemporary Turkish-Mediterranean restaurant müzedechanga, overlooking the Bosphorus. Finally, listen to Simone Dinnerstein masterfully playing Bach.

Let her creative side flourish: Sometimes, the best thing we can do for people is to let them grow on their own. Our mothers have done a lot of that for us, and now it’s time to return the favor. There’s something that she loves doing, but she probably doesn’t spend enough time and energy on it? Whatever it is, find a workshop, class, or tour that will let her indulge her creative side. One suggestion we have is the three-day photography workshop by Britist photographer Peter Sanders. (For detailed information on the workshop, click here.)

Cook for her: This is probably one of the best ways you can treat your mom. It’ll probably catch her off guard, and will certainly make her feel appreciated. For creative meal ideas, take a look at our Recipes or get a copy of Istanbul Contemporary Cuisine, and cook up a feast for your mom.

Go away with her: When we say away, we mean on a relaxing trip to Bodrum. Now is the perfect time to enjoy the famous coastal town, before local and international tourists flock this popular vacation spot. While you’re there, make the best of your trip by taking some yoga classes from the well-known yoga teacher Saash Behnam Kheirolomor. He teaches everyday in a number of venues in Bodrum. Click here to see Saash’s program. (The Guide Bodrum is coming out at the end of June, so don’t forget to get your copy to see the best of Bodrum. In the meantime, click here to read about Bodrum.)

Get tickets for the Istanbul Theater Festival: If your mother enjoys the theater, what better way to spend time with her than to see a play together. Take advantage of the rich variety of productions that are being staged in Istanbul until June 5^th as part of the Istanbul Theater Festival, and make a day of it. Click here to take a look at our picks from the festival.

Pamper her with an appointment at the hairdresser: Every woman loves a new haircut, and Mother's Day is the perfect opportunity to make your mothers feel rejuvenated with a new haircut. We suggest you make an appointment at Erdem Kıramer or HH Hair Design.

Get a piece of jewelry for moms-to-be: It can never be too early for push presents, so get your soon-to-be-a-mother best friend, sister, cousin, or wife a piece of jewelry to make their day. For something contemporary, check out Ela Cindoruk and Nazan Pak’s collection. For an elegant piece, browse through the Bee Goddess collection. For something extraordinarily beautiful with healing qualities, get a ring from Tohum. If you’re ready to splurge, check out Gilan’s collection.

Participate in Mother’s Day Activities at Lola: Lola, the multicultural arts and languages center, is hosting Mother’s Day events on May 12th. Daddies can take their kids to Lola between 10am-12pm to create handmade cards and presents for mommy. Mothers who want to celebrate the special day by creating art with their kids can head there between 3-5pm for a lovely afternoon of art.

The bridge never allows the horizon to turn pitch black because its light is always there, something the owners of Ulus29 took into consideration when allowing an expansive view via floor to ceiling windows and dim interior lighting. In the summer, the view is maximized with an outdoor terrace that faces the Bosphorus directly. Also housed in Ulus29, which is located on top of a hill in the Ulus district, is a lounge and club attractive for those interested in a nightlife that carries the upscale elements of the restaurant. Apart from its lavish decor, inclusive of lush golden chandeliers and abstract art works, and a reputation for serving top notch dishes with one of the best views of the Bosphorus in the city, the award winning wine list must also be mentioned.

Prepared by sommelier Stephane Vattepain, the srikingly tall French gentlemen who appears intermittently with several rounds of wine bottle and decanters in hand, is proud of the list prepared according to import availability. The list is not a list, but more of a book, with pages that not only present the best of Turkey (Vattepain recommends the Turkish-grown Syrah the most), but also travels to Italy, France, Australia, Argentina, Chile and much more.

The menu, both of a Turkish and international persuasion, offers a select multitude of dishes prepared with presentation in mind as much as taste. Beginning with the Truffle Scented Jerusalem Soup, a light green concoction both smooth and rich and overall excellent, the meal began favorably to be continued with a mix of sushi rolls including tuna, salmon, and crawfish tartare.

Our wine was revealed to be a bottle of Prodom, Petit Verdot (2010) grown locally in the Aydın region with an acidity most amenable with the red meat centered main dishes. The highlight of the palate parade was the Bone Marrow Crusted Beef Tenderloin and Foie Gras, that combined perfectly tender meat with a sweet and dark sauce. The last entry was the combination of Saddle of Lamb and Lamb Chops served with eggplant puree and fresh thyme, one last presentation of soft meat coupling with the subtly broiled taste of eggplant.

For dessert, the “Valrhona” Caramel Chocolate Mousse with yoghurt jelly and foam offered a contrasting but equally crispy to smooth ending for a satiating hour. A. Adnan Saygun Caddesi Ulus Parkı İçi; P: (0212) 358 29 29

This is Dans Afrika, Istanbul’s first and only African drumming and dance group, mostly composed of members from Senegal and Guinea and entirely united by a mutual passion for the music. Surprisingly, the sole Turk of the group and the manager, Inci Turan brought the concept to Turkey after spending several years in New York City where she regularly attended African dance fitness classes. Upon moving back to Istanbul in 2005, she missed the classes so much she began teaching them herself.

The group's music director and Inci's partner, Guershon (Sean) Jocelyn, a New Yorker of Haitian and African descent, was introduced to the music through Inci. He quickly fell in love with the drums and the connection it provided to his roots. Jocelyn’s rhythmic passion led him back to Senegal in 2011 where, under the guidance of professional musicians such as master Balaphonist Kandioura Diabate, he acquired a deeper understanding of the music and a rejuvenated drive to make Dans Afrika a success.

Soon after returning to Istanbul, Sean extended a helping hand to the same drummers he had met back in Senegal, Kandioura, Salif Peker, and Ibrahim Iradiaw. They had come to Istanbul as part of a Senegalese day performance in Sultanahmet. Sean and Inci aided them in finding a home and gave them the opportunity to continue playing music with Dans Afrika. Later on, two professionally trained Senegalese dancers, Mimi and Zita, who came to Turkey to earn a better living, joined the group, adding mesmerizing visuals to the deep rhythm of the drums.

Another drummer, Alasanne Diop, a Rastafarian of Senegalese descent, lived in Paris, North Korea and Hong Kong prior to Istanbul, where he performed and taught African drumming. Hoping to one day support himself entirely from drumming, he simply said “for me, I just want all the Turks and people living in Istanbul to hear about us, come see what we are doing and appreciate what we are bringing here culturally.” The master balaphone player, Kandioura Diabate comes from a GRIOT family, who tell their history to the next generations through music and dance, and is the cousin of famous Kakosali Diabate. Kakosali, who trained Kandioura, is the famous balaphone player of the first African Dance company Les Ballet Africaines (Guinea National Dance Company) that made African dance and music popular around the world.

Today, given this pool of talent, Dans Afrika has reached a new level. They practice regularly, teach two classes per week, and are building a pipeline of upcoming performances. The group is doing something truly remarkable – importing African culture to Turkey in a raw, authentic and fun way. They do it out of love, not for money or out of necessity, making it something worth supporting.

Their next performance is on Tuesday, May 22 at Cuba Bar in Asmali Mescit. They also teach dance and drumming on Sundays in Taksim. You can find out more about classes and upcoming shows at www.afrikadansi.com or send an email to afrikadansi@gmail.com.

It looks like the weather will be nice and sunny this weekend. And you know what happens on such weekends – crowds flood the neighborhoods along the Bosphorus strait, especially Bebek, stealing the best seat in the most popular cafes, enjoying a late brunch, lunch, or dinner and spending as much time as possible enjoying the fantastic Bosphorus view.

If you want to enjoy the weather at a café or restaurant with a garden or outdoor seating, but don’t want to torture yourself through the Bosphorus traffic, take a look at our suggestions below.

Go Austrian at Julius Meinl:Julius Meinl, otherwise known as Karabatak Karaköy, is one of the hottest cafes in Karaköy right now. But this coffee shop is not just about amazing coffee and irresistible desserts. Here, you’ll also find some Austrian specialties, like Frankfurter and Schnitzel (chicken or beef). Enjoy your lunch or dinner right by the entrance and let the sunlight beam on you. And make sure you indulge in a slice of Sacher Torte, the special Austrian chocolate cake. Just take the metro to Taksim Square, then take the funicular down to Kabataş, and take the tram to Karaköy to avoid traffic. Kemankeş Karamustafa Paşa Mahallesi Kara Ali Kaptan Sokak No.7, P: (0212) 243 69 93

Go Ethnic at Çiya:This Asian Side classic is known the world over for its wide range of delicacies from Syria, Georgia, southern Iran, and all parts of Turkey. Expect to find interesting versions of favorite staple dishes at Çiya, for example stuffed artichoke rather than the usual stuffed pepper, grilled loquats filled with rice and minced meat mixtures or caramelized onions atop the classic dolma (stuffed vine leaves).If you’re on the European Side, hop on a ferry from Beşiktaş to Kadıköy – you’ll get to enjoy the Bosphorus view plus you’ll avoid traffic. Güneşli Bahçesi Sokak No. 43, Kadıköy; P: (0216) 330 31 90

Go Artsy at Istanbul Modern Café: You can have your cake and eat it too, you know. Just head to Istanbul Modern Café, where you can enjoy inventive dishes of meze, seafood, and meat right on the Bosphorus, having toured La La La Human Steps, Istanbul Modern’s latest exhibition that is ending on May 6. Istanbul Modern is located in Tophane, but you can avoid the traffic jam by taking the metro to Taksim Square, where you can hop on the funicular to Kabataş, and then get on the tram to Tophane. Meclisi Mebusan Caddesi Antrepo No. 4 Salıpazarı, Karaköy; P: (0212) 292 26 12

Go Aegean at Maria’nın Bahçesi: You will be surprised to find a lush garden of flowers and intertwined green vines on the side of the road in the Küçükyalı neighborhood on the Asian side, which is exactly what makes Maria’nın Bahçesi (Maria’s Garden) a perfect location for lunch or dinner on a warm day. The menu focuses on Aegean cuisine and includes a selection of seafood dishes including everything from monk fish, to sea bass, to jumbo shrimp. Try the Balıkçının Makarnası (Fisherman’s Pasta), which claims to combine linguini with everything edible from the sea, and in fact really does. Make your reservation on a Friday or Saturday night to listen to the live music available from 8:30pm in the form of a guitarist singing softly away in Italian, Spanish, and Turkish. Küçükyalı Sahilyolu No. 85, Küçükyalı; P: (0216) 519 98 19

Go Italian at Antica Locanda: Antica Locanda is located in Arnavutköy, and there is not really a shortcut or a way of transportation that will take you there without traffic – unless you can walk there. But, even if you get stuck in traffic, the peaceful little garden of Antica Locanda and the mouthwatering dishes will erase your tortured moments in the traffic jam immediately. Especially if you have the calamari stew, or the caramelized chicken breast, the Venetian style fettuccini, or the tiramisu.

That being said, Istanbul still experiences the four seasons, and the best times to visit are between April-July (if you’re coming from the Southern hemisphere and are used to really warm weather) or September-October (if you’re coming from the Northern hemisphere and putting on a sweater or a light coat equals great weather for you).

If you don’t get too much time off work and must travel during Easter or Christmas, keep in mind that Istanbul tends to get quite crowded during those periods. The Grand Bazaar and many other sights close down during religious holidays, so do take this into consideration when planning your trip, especially if you'll be visiting only for a few days. Ramadan is the holiest month in the Islamic calendar, and during this month, many Muslims fast from sunrise to sunset, then come together with their families to break their fast in a meal called iftar. Ramadan in Istanbul is quite different than in most cities in the Islamic world. Turks take a far more relaxed approach to matters of eating and drinking in public. While many Turks do fast, restaurants stay open, and it is not forbidden to eat or drink in public, although many choose to be more discreet when eating, out of respect for those who are fasting. If you happen to visit Istanbul during this time of year, you may want to partake in an iftar dinner, as many people find this an interesting and enjoyable cultural experience, with many hotels offering iftar dinner.

If your visit to Istanbul entails more than sightseeing, here is a list of the best times to come:

If you’re an art lover:Istanbul has a lively and constantly-growing art scene, with many galleries and museums showcasing exceptional artworks. Although the weather may not be ideal, the best time for an art lover to visit Istanbul is during the fall (September-November) when the Istanbul Biennial (organized by IKSV) and Contemporary Istanbul take place. Keep in mind that many galleries close down during August, so if seeing galleries is a must for you, avoid this hottest month of the year. (When you’re in Istanbul, make sure to check out our Agenda for the current gallery exhibitions.)

If you’re a cinephile:Istanbul is home to many film festivals throughout the year. Organized by IKSV, the International Istanbul Film Festival takes place during spring (around April), while Filmekimi takes place in October. !f Istanbul International Independent Film Festival takes place every February and March, and Istanbul Animation Festival (organized by Pera Museum) takes place around November-December. The Akbank Short Film Festival has been organized in March in the past few years, but it was previously held in September and December, too, so do make sure to check out the upcoming festival dates.

If you’re a music lover:International names and local bands take the stage at many Istanbul venues throughout the year, especially in and around Beyoğlu. But all the exciting music festivals take place during the summer. Organized by IKSV, the Istanbul Music Festival takes place each year in June, while the Istanbul Jazz Festival takes place in July. Rock’n Coke Festival takes place once every two years in August or September. Efes Pilsen One Love Festival, which has brought the likes of Manic Street Preachers and Cake to Istanbul in the past years, takes place each year in July. Akbank Jazz Festival takes place around September-October. Chill-out Festival Istanbul, dedicated to chill-out and lounge music, and Freshtival, which brings together local and international names from experimental and indie music scenes, take place each year in May. The heavy metal festival Sonisphere is held in June while the Efes Pilsen Blues Festival takes place in November-December. The Istanbul Recitals takes place each year between October and June.

If you’re a cool hunter:The design industry in Istanbul is still growing, with a few design shops spread around the city. If you want to see what Turkish designers are up to, come to Istanbul during September to check out Istanbul Design Week. Organized by IKSV, the first Design Biennial will take place between 13 October – 12 December 2012, so keep an eye out for this in the upcoming years.

If you’re a fashionista: Galata is Istanbul’s fashion incubator, and is home to Galata Moda, a festival that showcases the works of established as well as up-and-coming Turkish designers, which usually takes place in December.Istanbul Fashion Week takes place twice a year, around September and February, with runway shows that dazzle.

If you’re a shopaholic: Istanbul has the Grand Bazaar, so we have shopping pretty much covered. But if you’re into brands and discounts, keep an eye out forShopping Fest, which takes place during spring or summer, offering major discounts all around the city. We also have Fashion’s Night Out in September for those who can’t get enough of the stores during regular working hours.

If you’re a drama queen:Istanbul Theater Festival, organized by IKSV, takes place around May-June.

The concert craze takes off with none other than Madonna, who’ll take the Türk Telekon Arena stage on 7 June. Unfortunately, tickets are sold out, so if you haven’t already bought yours, your best bet is to head to the arena on the day of the concert and see if you’re lucky enough to find a ticket at the door.

Things get going for indie lovers on 28 June with the Küçükçiftlik performance of Metronomy and Two Doors Cinema Club. In June, the Istanbul Jazz Festival takes off with some incredible names, especially the very cool Canadian indie rock band The Dears on 12 July at Istanbul Modern and the Grammy-winning Erykah Badu on 13 July at Cemil Topuzlu Açıkhava Sahnesi.

Possibly the most exciting concert of the summer is Morrisey on 19 July at at Cemil Topuzlu Açıkhava Sahnesi. He’ll surely mesmerize the audience with his dynamic voice and stage performance.

This year’s Efes Pilsen One Love Festival, taking place from 14-15 July, will feature Pulp, Kimbra, and Selah Sue. Pulp will bring 90s Brit-pop to the present, while New Zealand sensation Kimbra’s mix of neo-soul and dance music and Selah Sue’s reggae and soul beats will get the Istanbul audience ready for the summer.

Come fall, the Canadian songwriter, poet, and novelist Leonard Cohen, who is the brain behind the uber-covered ultra-emotional song "Hallelujah" will be back in Istanbul on 19 September at Ülker Sports Arena.After the Canadian music genius, the sensational indie band Beirut, most famous for their song “Nantes,” will take the Turkcell Kuruşçeşme Arena stage on 21 September for a night of Balkan-inspired upbeat songs.

Destination weddings are about bringing together your family and closest friends in a beautiful location, and celebrating your union. They not only enhance the wedding day itself, but also enrich all the activities that surround it. With its crystal blue waters, rolling hills covered with olive trees and citrus groves, and white-washed buildings draped with bougainvillea, Bodrum makes an ideal backdrop to any wedding. Its many leisure options, including a thriving nightlife and wealth of boat trip and party opportunities, further add to its appeal. You name it: in Bodrum, you can indulge in it. You and your friends can spend the days sunning on beaches and shopping in local stores, and the evenings enjoying any number of themed parties as you build up to the big day. Add to this a number of boutique and five-star hotels and spas that offer top-notchservices, and Bodrum is truly a perfect location for a destination wedding.

Boutique Beauty

For those looking to share the intimate experience of a boutique wedding with their nearest and dearest, the Maçakızı hotel in Türkbükü provides an ideal setting. A favorite with both the international and Turkish jet-setting crowd, Maçakızı is known for the beauty of its grounds and its tasteful and unpretentious décor. With its stone and whitewashed bungalows and stunning gardens tumbling down the hills to the waterside decks, which are covered with cream-colored cushions, this hotel epitomizes classic Mediterranean beauty. Everything here is elegant and low-key, from the rooms to the grounds, with an ever-present view of the azure blue water of the Aegean.

Maçakızı is famous for its great music, and also for its delicious food, which consistently wins rave reviews from guests. The menus of renowned chef Aret Sahakyan feature a blend of Turkish and Mediterranean flavors and cooking techniques, using only the finest and freshest local ingredients. Meals are served in an open-air dining room, in the shade of a 100-year-old olive tree. The environment of abundant natural beauty serves as the ideal backdrop for a simple, elegant, and chic wedding. While it is possible to bring in an outside wedding planner, most couples choose to have the hotel handle all the wedding details.

A classic Maçakızı wedding features lots of white draped fabric, plenty of candlelight, and fuchsia bougainvillea to add a dash of color. The events start with cocktails, move onto an open buffet or sit-down dinner by Sahakyan, and end with a night of dancing beneath the stars. Maçakızı Bodrum;Kesire Mevkii Narçiçeği St. 48400 Göltürkbükü Bodrum; P: +90 252 377 6272

Five Star Luxury

For many people, their nuptials are the perfect excuse to indulge in a five-star luxury experience. For the ultimate in opulence, plan your wedding at the Kempinski hotel, whose name is synonymous with luxury. The hotel benefits from a very dramatic setting with sweeping views over Barbaros Bay. This stylish and serene scene makes for a highly tasteful and minimalist wedding. The Bodrum Kempinski offers special wedding packages that include all the details necessary for the perfect wedding. Depending on the size and type of your event, you can choose from one of many beautiful function areas, including the Gazebo Terrace, Barbarossa Beach, or a poolside area. Whichever you choose, Kempinski Bodrum’s wedding planners will help you with every single detail so that you can just relax and enjoy your wedding.

Apart from the breathtaking beauty of the bay and hotel, many couples choose to have their wedding at the Kempinski for the delicious food and famous spa. Executive chef Ali Ronay has an extensive repertoire, and he and his staff can accommodate a range of requests, whether you want traditional Turkish, classic French, or Asian Fusion dishes on your wedding day. At the Six Senses Spa (complete with traditional hamam), you and your partner, not to mention all your guests, can feel like royalty for a day. In fact, the spa is so popular that even if their wedding is being held in another venue, many bridal parties choose to come here to treat themselves to a spa and get pampered in preparation for the big day. To top it all off, the Kempinski staff will even plan your honeymoon in one of the many luxury hotels the company operates around the world.Kempinski Hotel Barbaros Bay Bodrum;Kızılagaç Köyü, Gerenkuyu Mevkii Yaliçiftlik, Bodrum; P: +90 252 3110303

Beachy

For some, the entire point of a wedding in Bodrum is to get married right on the beach, with sand between their toes. For those in search of a simple, casual, and seaside wedding, Xuma beach in Yalıkavak is the ideal location. Situated on a beautiful private bay at the edge of a nature preserve and surrounded by greenery and citrus trees, this is an ideal setting for a low-key wedding. The beach club can be closed for weddings during June and September. These months are also preferred for their slightly cooler evenings. While couples are welcome to bring in outside planners and caterers, Xuma has its own restaurant, which serves up tasty Mediterranean meals. If you want a simple beach wedding with the stunning natural beauty of Bodrum as your backdrop, Xuma beach is the ideal venue.XUMA Beach Club,Küdür Mevkii, Yalıkavak Bodrum; P : +90 252 385 47 75

Wedding Services

While most wedding venues provide their own services, some couples choose to bring in outside services. Below are some of our suggestions.

Sights

Flowers are an important part of any wedding, and Ceremony by Irem Yargici, located in Istanbul’s upscale Bebek neighborhood, sells stunning arrangements that can be shipped anywhere in the country. They also provide general wedding planning services and are known for the most elegantly organized and tasteful weddings. For a more locally based florist and event planner, Nature Cicek Evi Davet & Organization, based in Bodrum, can take care of all the details, from your appointment at the beauty salon to your Turkish honeymoon. (Nature Çiçek Evi & Organizasyon is located on Cafer Paşa Caddesi No. 85, Muğla, Bodrum. P: 0252 313 05 72.)

Sounds

Turkey’s best known DJ, Salih Saka, can provide you with the perfect musical background on your big day. His events company, S&S Music Maker, is known for providing the best DJ services in the country and even has a compilation CD: Ceremonies and Parties.

Tastes

Café di Dolce can make you the perfect wedding cake, as beautiful as it is delicious.

The IKSV Jazz Festival, sponsored by Garanti Bank, has chosen jazz for exactly these reasons, its innovative nature and multifaceted explorations in terms of both voice and instrument. The festival, which has taken place every year since 1994, not only focuses on jazz but also genres such as rock, folk, and popular music in its selection of artists. Since its inception, the festival has brought the likes of Herbie Hancock, Tony Bennett, Eric Clapton, Lou Reed, Elvis Costello, and Diana Krall to Istanbul among many others.

This year the festival has another fantastic selection of musical guests from varying genres and countries, all arriving to bring their unique auditory experiences to the Istanbul audience. Notable performances include:

Marcus Miller (July 5): Miller gained notoriety on a global scale as a bassist for important names such as Miles Davis, Herbie Hancock, and Luther Vandross. The musician, who is also a talented jazz composer and producer, is also a multi-instrumentalist, classically trained in clarinet while also playing keyboard, saxophone, and guitar.

Till Brönner (July 6): Brönner has become one of the most important names among jazz trumpet players gaining notoriety with two Grammy nominations and a best selling album in his native Germany. Brönner, who has received the prestigious German Echo music award on five different occasions, has shared the stage with such big names as Dave Brubeck, James Moody, Natalie Cole and Tony Bennett.

Antony Hegarty (July 9): Hegarty’s voice is defined by a profound yet gentle melancholy that gives his songs a penetrating beauty. The English singer, composer, and visual artist who has collaborated with such important names as Lou Reed and Björk, will give a very special Istanbul concert with musical accompaniment by the 39-member Istanbul Philharmonic Orchestra.

Caro Emerald (July 10): Samba, jazz, bossa nova, and catchy lyrics blend perfectly in Dutch jazz singer Caro Emerald’s music. The young sensation broke chart records with her debut album Deleted Scenes from the Cutting Room Floor (2010), which spent 30 weeks at number one on the Dutch album chart. You probably know her from “A Night like This” or “Back it Up.”

Erykah Badu (July 13): When Baduizm came out in 1997, neo-soul was born along with its queen Erykah Badu whose signature headwraps came across like a crown of color along with the beauty of her voice. Five albums and four Grammies later, Badu is still a name known all over the world and an essential part of the IKSV Jazz Festival.

Esperanza Spalding (July 16): Spalding won the Grammy for Best New Artist in 2011 which made her the first jazz artist to ever receive the title. The musician, who alternates between upright bass and bass guitar during her performances while also singing, has released four albums since 2006.

Keith Jarrett (July 18): One of the most important names among jazz pianists, Jarrett’s talent has given him roles both as a composer and pianist of jazz and classical music. Having played with such important names as Miles Davis, Art Blakey, and Charles Lloyd, the pianist will be joined by the rest of the famous trio members that have been defining the jazz music genre since 1983.

Morrissey (July 19): The Smiths, with lead singer Morrisey, were termed by critics as one of the most important alternative rock bands to emerge out of the British independent music scene in the 1980s. Now Morrisey, as part of the Istanbul Jazz Festival, will return to bring his dynamic voice and stage performance to an 80s nostalgic Istanbul.

The full listing of events can be found at the official webpage.

The celeb-approved Misela bags have become an international sensation within a few years of the brand’s launch, and have been worn by the likes of Rosario Dawson, Emmy Rossum, Ashley Greene, and Nicole Scherzinger. Since its founding in 2008, Misela was only being sold online and in various boutiques and department stores around the world. Now, the first Misela boutique opened up in the historic Pera district for all the ladies who want to upgrade their look with a sophisticated accessory.

Serra Türker, the Istanbul-born painter-turned-designer who is the founder and creative director of Misela, was an art student at the prestigious Rhode Island School of Design where she studied textile design. Taking her background in painting, blending it with her impeccable sense of style and her grasp of design, color, and texture, Türker has been creating some very chic statement handbags.

Her small but very classy store in Pera now showcases the latest Summer 2012 collection of clutches, pochettes, and shoulder bags that feature vibrant colors (different hues of red, pink, yellow, and blue), leather, sea snake, suede, and Swarovski crystals.

So if you want to get glam or instantly brighten up your look for the summer, head to the Misela boutique in Pera.

Misela’s handbags are also sold at various locations around Istanbul, including Harvey Nichols, Atelier 55, Midnight Express in Bebek, and Midnight Express in Nişantaşı. To see the full collection and learn about international locations, check out Misela’s website here. Misela brand pillows can only be found at the Misela showroom (Pera Residence, Asmalı Mescit Sokak, No:28 Kat:1 Daire:5) and Atelier 55.

Misela, Meşrutiyet Caddesi No. 107/E, Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 243 53 00

The Rixos group has renovated the building that used to house the Royal Hotel, which was originally opened in 1876. The new hotel features 116 luxury rooms as well as 21 suites, all at the highest level of comfort and luxury. The hotel has a spa and fitness center as well as four à la carte restaurants — Park Şamdan, Chapelle, Jack Russel, and Cafe Royal — all managed by Turkish entertainment mogul Emre Ergani.

The earliest of the four series, 1799’s Caprichos (Caprices), is a mordant satire on societal hypocrisy and injustice, in which no one escapes the artist’s censure, least of all the corrupt and venal clergy of Goya’s day, or the monks represented as vampire-ish creatures who must go into hiding at sunrise. The nocturnal and the supernatural figure in the Caprichos, and the bats and owls of its best-known print, El sueño de la razón produce monstruos (The Sleep of Reason Produces Monsters), crop up elsewhere in the series. Animals are a frequent vehicle for satire in the Caprichos, such as the parrot of ¡Que Pico de Oro! (What a Golden Beak!), lecturing upon a judge’s bench to a crowd of imbeciles, or the donkeys of Tú que no puedes (You Who Cannot), sitting on the backs of the human pack animals who struggle to hold them up. The Caprichos’ picture of male-female relations, while unremittingly bleak, is at least even-handedly so; in this mercenary world, men and women are equally likely to “fleece” and “pluck” each other – whether through prostitution, or through its scarcely more respectable equivalent, marriage.

Goya’s famous series The Disasters of War, created between 1810 and 1820, is far more earnest and direct in its approach. Shunning animal fables and half-human monsters for the real-life horrors of Napoleon’s invasion of Spain, these images and captions require little interpretation for the most part. A man, tied to a post before an unseen firing squad, waits to be executed – for the crime of possessing a penknife. French soldiers gun down unarmed Spaniards, both men and women. An execution by hanging takes a grisly turn when the tree is not high enough. Though Goya’s sympathies clearly lie with the Spanish victims of the war, his desire to expose human cruelty is unpartisan: the Spaniard in Lo Mismo (The Same), raising his axe above a French soldier pleading for mercy, is definitely a less than heroic figure.

While you might expect the inhumane sport of bullfighting to receive similar treatment at Goya’s hands, this is not the case. The Tauromaquia (1815-16), offering nothing less than a history of bullfighting from pre-Moorish and Moorish times down to Goya’s day, is openly admiring of the bullfighters who risk life and limb before these huge and terrifying beasts. The etchings portray the various innovations in bullfighting over the centuries, as well as bullfighting celebrities like the legendary Martincho, who in one print sits calmly on a chair before a charging bull, and in another awaits its approach standing on top of a dinner table placed in the arena.

The final series, the Follies or Proverbs (1815-24), partly returns to the moral world of the Caprichos, but here the tone is less didactic and less satirical than in earlier series, and the “message” of each print is not always as clear. The ring of women in Disparate femenino (Feminine Folly), carrying a sheet into which male bodies fall – as into a pit – recalls the mistrust of women found in Goya’s earlier etchings, and Disparate matrimonial (Matrimonial Folly) – in which husband and wife are fused together like Siamese twins – presents a similarly bestial view of humanity. Nonetheless, the symbols and subject-matter of other etchings – featuring circus animals, men strapped to Da Vinci-esque flying machines, or an old man wandering among phantoms and shadows – are as open to interpretation as those of a dream.

While Goya’s etchings are the main focus of the show, the dozen or so oil paintings on display are also worth viewing, with portraits of important personages like Goya’s best friend Martin Zapater, and surprisingly down-to-earth representations of King Carlos IV and Queen Maria Luisa. One unexpected delight in this show was a series of so-called tapestry cartoons – oil paintings Goya created while working at the Royal Tapestry Factory of Santa Barbara – portraying children climbing trees, scuffling in the street, or playing leapfrog or seesaw. In one painting a bunch of children play at soldiers; in another, a child carries on his back a wicker basket to which horns have been attached: it is a pretend bullfight. Poignantly anticipating the violence and brutality of the works you will see soon afterwards, these touching portraits of childhood innocence show Goya at his least misanthropic, and serve as a brief respite from the adult world of horrors to which he was such an eloquent witness.

Goya: Witness of his Time, curated by Maria Oropesa, runs at the Pera Museum through July 29^th.

Besides Karaköy classics, like Karaköy Lokantası and Lokanta Maya, which serve as great lunch and dinner spots, two cafes are taking the lead in Karaköy: Julius Meinl, also known as Karabatak Karaköy, and Ops Café.

Both these venues have the ideal chill-out settings, for a coffee break, a forget-the-workweek kind of Sunday brunch, a quick lunch break, or tête-à-têtes over tea and dessert. Julius Meinl, which has been open for over a year now, has been attracting a steady stream of customers, and it’s no wonder once you see the venue. The two-story coffee shop takes you into a different world, with the most soothing music playing in the background, sunlight beaming through the windows, and the perfect coffee smell tickling your senses.

The décor is quite special, too, with checkered floors, stacks of coffee beans, nostalgic posters, out-of-your-grandmother’s-house furniture pieces, beautifully worn-out colorful walls, and an overall dream-like interior. The second floor, which is easy to miss out on because the stairs are located right behind the counter, is very similar to but also very different from the first floor. The décor here is on the same line but with an even more homey feel with hardwood floors, colorful carpets, warm navy-blue walls, and hanging lamps. The atmosphere is much calmer here than it is downstairs, almost like a public library, with most tables occupied by individuals, reading, doing work, or contemplating the meaning of life in this room where the dormant philosopher in you will definitely wake up. Downstairs is more social, with tables mostly occupied by small groups chatting over coffee. Now that the weather is warm enough, the outdoor seating is also a great option, especially for watching the Karaköy crowd pass by or reading one of the magazines available, like the New Yorker or the Monocle.

The Austrian origin of Julius Meinl is visible in its food menu, which includes a delicious Schnitzel (chicken or beef) and Frankfurter. There is also less Austrian additions, like soup (broccoli or mushroom), penne arabiata and penne pesto. For breakfast or brunch, you can go for a classic platter, an omelet, a bowl of cornflakes, or something sweet like pancakes and muffins. Don’t let the three-page long coffee list overwhelm you, just ask your friendly waiter to guide you in the right direction. This is a great place to get adventurous and try something that you’ve never even heard of before, like Wiener Melange, a cappuccino-like coffee made with mild coffee, steamed milk, and foam. You’ll probably be tempted to get a dessert, too, and we say go for it and take your pick from the wide range of delicious desserts, like the brownie, the apple pie, or the sacher torte (Austrian chocolate cake). Remember to take a look at their tea menu as well, which offers interesting flavors, like Mohr Red (made with strawberry, raspberry, blackberry, and cloves) and Mohr Blossom (made with rose petals, vanilla, orange, and jasmine).

The other hot spot in Karaköy is Ops Café, which recently opened in February. Ops is owned and managed by a retired captain, which explains the elements of nautical décor and sailor’s knots in the venue. Much smaller in size than the neighboring Julius Meinl, Ops Café is a similarly cozy venue, with a limited menu (featuring few salads, pastas, sandwiches, and wraps).

Decorated much like a lounge area, with its center featuring an inviting couch and a coffee table, it’s the details that make Ops Café special, like the succulent plants that adorn each table, the small bookcase by the couch, and the rope ladder hung to the ceiling with a hook. You’ll also see artworks adorning the walls. We suggest you take a good look (and ask for the price if you like what you see) because they’re not the permanent décor but a short-term exhibition of works by creatively inclined, passionate people.

Many frequent Ops Café for its breakfast platter, which comes with a variety of cheese, dried meat, olives, and honey, and that’s why the venue is always crowded on weekends. Ops works on a first-come first-serve basis, so if you want to start your Sunday with a breakfast at Ops, go as early as you can to secure a spot.

Julius Meinl/Karabatak Karaköy, Kemankeş Karamustafa Paşa Mahallesi, Ali Kaptan Sokak No. 7, Karaköy; P: (0212) 243 63 93

Ops Café, Mumhane Caddesi Nimet Han 45 B, Karaköy; P: (0212) 245 02 88

Nuteras opens the last week of April, meaning that the weather is finally reaching amenable temperatures. Mixed with a slight bitterness that Nupera (composed of 67, LilBitz and Auf) must close for that to occur, the terrace is a welcome escape from a common ground-floor-existence. Like most trendy bars in the city, Nuteras is also a restaurant, with a menu that combines the international and Turkish.

After a certain hour the tables begin to disappear, allowing for standing and dancing space, and the volume of the music begins to creep to high levels. This is the time when the first brave soul makes his or her way to the top of the glass dance floor to break the seal of immovability. The full bar offers whatever cocktail your mind might conjure, but the recommended Rose Mojito, made of white wine, red wine, Absolut vanilla, lime, and mint,is a worthy palatal endeavor. Meşrutiyet Caddesi No. 67/1; P: 212 245 60 70

At KronotRop, the beans are ground the moment that the coffee is ordered by the customer, meaning that everything served is made-to-order and thus presented as fresh as possible. Other coffee shops let ground coffee sit around for days, not taking into consideration the fact that about ten minutes after a bag of ground coffee is opened, it begins to go bad. The other factor, the quality of the actual bean, takes the form of single origin coffee, that, like specific vineyards for wine, refer to a single geographical location where the bean is harvested and exported. Krontrop’s single origin coffee varieties range from such titles as “Ethiopia Konga Peaberry Natural” to “Sumatra Takengon Gayon Mountains Double Picked Fully Washed” among many others.

KronotRop is the first and only micro-roaster in Istanbul, decked-out in award-winning Nuova Simonella espresso coffee machines and a chalkboard menu that offers an array of options, most notably the red eye, which is a shot of espresso followed by a cup of filtered coffee. Once you drink the coffee made lovingly by the dedicated hands of Gülabioğlu himself, there is a serious risk that you will never go back to regular coffee again.

KronotRop, Kuloğlu Mahallesi Yeniçarşı Caddesi No. 5/B, Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 249 92 71

The experience is relaxing to say the least. To a soundtrack of rain drop ehcoes and flutes softly playing away in the distance, the body is massaged with various oils for an hour, causing the soporific effect mentioned. However, apart from the relaxing massage, the facility itself is noteworthy because of the excellence of its overall atmosphere and hygiene. Everything from the clean showers that offer Dove soap and shampoo in the women’s changing room, to the private lockers with an abundance of fresh towels give off an air of intentional calm and luxury.

The spa also offers couples massages, Aromatherapy and Swedish massages, as well as special massages for pregnant women among others. Turkish bath services, various facials, and full body treatments are also on offer, most notably the chocolate peeling and mask. Guests are also welcome to use the fitness center where private pilates sessions are held, or swim in the half-Olympic sized pool. Asker Ocağı Caddesi 34367 No:1; For reservation and more information call (212) 315 5500

Turkish wines are just beginning to make their existence known in the world, with an array of flavorful reds, whites, and rose options. Burçak Desombre, wine coach and owner of Vinipedia Wine Consultancy, knows this better than anyone and compiled a list of the best Turkish wines as a guide for enthusiasts and beginners alike.

TOP 7 TURKISH WHITES|Compiled by Burçak Desombre

1.Kavaklıdere, Côtes d’Avanos, Narince/Chardonnay, Cappadocia 2010

2.Vinolus Chardonnay, Kayseri 2009

3.Umurbey Sauvignon Blanc, Tekirdağ 2009

4.Paflaeli, Kolorko, Tekirdağ 2010

5.Sevilen 900, Fumé Blanc, Aegea 2010

6.Arcadia Sauvignon Blanc 2010

7.Doluca Serafin Sauvignon Blanc, Mürefte 2010

TOP 7 TURKISH RED WINES

1.Barbare Elegance, Grenache/Syrah/Mourvedre, Thrace Valley 2007

2.Tomurcukbağ, Trajan Reserve, Kalecik Karası, Kalecik 2009

3.Kavaklıdere, Pendore, Syrah, Manisa 2009

4.Urla Tempus Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot-Boğazkere-Petit Verdot-Cabernet Franc, Urla 2010

5.Kayra Vintage Öküzgözü, Elazığ 2008

6.Urlice Cabernet Sauvignon/ Syrah, Urla 2009

7.Büyülübağ Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon, Avşa Island 2008

TOP 7 TURKISH ROSE WINES

1.Kavaklıdere, Egeo Rose 2010

2.Urla Serendias Rose 2011

3.Turasan Rose 2010

4.Kayra, Terra Kalecik Karası Beyaz 2010

5.Melen Cabernet Sauvignon Rose 2011

6.Kayra, Leona Blush 2010

7.Paşaeli Çalkarası Rose 2010

Note:The above-mentioned boutique wines can be found at specialty wine shops such asSensus Wine Boutique,Rouge, Onlinemahzen, andLa Cave. Bigger brands such as Sevilen, Kavaklıdere, and Kayra are also sold at major supermarkets.

I am a consultant, and I work in wine education and coaching. I work with both sides of the industry – I offer professional consulting to restaurants for their menus and staff, and I also organize events for consumers, such as tastings, themed dinners that match wine and food, and corporate events. Currently, I am also working on organizing incoming and outgoing wine tours. We are looking to combine historical and gourmet tourism, starting off the tours in Istanbul, then moving on to Trakya, the Aegean coast, and then possibly to Cappadocia.

Tell me about your background in wine and how you got into the industry.

I studied at a French high school in Istanbul and then went to university in Nice, and it was during this time that my interest in wine began. I visited a lot of wineries, both in France and Italy. When I returned to Turkey, I started working with ADCO, first as an assistant brand manager, where I learned a lot. Importantly, I learned that I love wine, and started to take training courses, which I very much enjoyed. This is when I started to get to know the industry well, working with importers, producers, and shops. During this time, I also obtained my advanced certificate at the UK-based Wine & Spirit Education Trust. I was the first woman to compete at the Turkish Sommelier Competition in 2010, where I came in second place. I then went to Spain to represent Turkey at the International Young Sommelier Competition organized by the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs in 2010, and came in fourth place among twelve competitors. After working with several different companies in the sector, I decided to start my own business.

How has the Turkish wine industry changed in the time you have worked in it, and how is it changing now?

I have seen a lot of positive changes in the Turkish wine sector over the past five years. Today we see more imported wines in Turkey, and these have actually become a bit less expensive since the taxation system was changed to a flat rate, which means that more expensive bottles are now a bit more affordable. We can also see from the growth of small wineries that local production has changed. Also, the big local players have made quality improvements and started producing boutique ranges. The result is that today we can see more quality in the sector, and consumers are learning to demand more quality.

One of the clear negative changes I can see is the ban on internet sales of alcohol. It is too expensive for small producers to pay the shelf fees in large supermarkets, which means that they cannot easily get their wines to market. This is a particularly big problem in Turkey’s smaller cities, where there are still consumers who are interested in good quality wines. Wine sales through the internet are very important for smaller producers and also for consumers, in order for the industry to grow.

What are the challenges for the Turkish wine sector?

Currently, there are many import taxes in place as well as a lot of bureaucratic hurdles and many procedures for importing wines. On the restaurant side, many restaurant staff are not well-trained, which can be a problem for consumers and the growth of the sector. The fact that many big producers have sponsorship deals with restaurants, together with the ban on internet sales, leaves little space for boutique producers.

What are the most exciting changes you see taking place right now in the sector?

The technology in the sector is getting better and better. Today we are seeing a lot of foreign consulting in Turkey. It is important for local producers to learn their terroir and the local grape varieties, but also to use the knowledge of more experienced wine consultants. Today we are starting to get a good mix of the two. We don’t currently have Oenology Studies here in Turkey, but we are starting to see more people who studied Food Engineering in Turkey, went abroad for a master’s degree in oenology, and have now returned to Turkey. This has been very good for the growth of the sector. Now we have more companies and more producers, which means that there is growing competition and that things are moving along. Today, things are quickly improving all across the sector, while this is not the case in Europe.

Any particular wines and vineyards to look out for in coming years?

Barbare and Urla are both vineyards to watch. Also Chateau Kalpak in fiarköy, and Çamlıca in Kırklareli, which has been experimenting with new grapes – both of the wineries will be on the market in 2012. Also Tomurcuk Bağ which is working with wild yeast on Kalecik Karası grapes.

What are your favorite vineyards and wine-growing areas to visit?

I enjoy visiting wineries in Turkey for their natural beauty, particularly Urla, Manisa’s Salihli village (where you can find Pendora vineyards), the Şükrü Baran vineyards in Elazığ, and the village of Hoşköy, which is very cute and has great views. I’ve also heard a lot about Vinolus, the first vineyard in Kayseri, but I have not yet had a chance to visit.

Tell us a bit about your experiences in Istanbul, what do you love about the city?

Almost everything, except for the traffic. Istanbul is a physically beautiful city, and you have so many options for going out and eating good food with a Bosphorus view. I love how we have fun with our friends, going out, eating, and drinking. A part of town like Taksim is totally different than, say, Bebek, and I love that in Istanbul I can enjoy both these places.

What do you least love?

The traffic.

What are your favorite neighborhoods in Istanbul?

I grew up in Etiler and it is where I live today. It is my favorite part of the city, because you can easily go down to Bebek or hop on the metro and go to Taksim, and you can do these things without really getting into traffic.

Favorite Turkish foods?

Real ciğ köfte (spiced raw meatball), and also olive oil dishes and mezes, particularly the spicy ones.

What’s your favorite place to eat breakfast?

The places along the water in Rumeli Hisarı. They have good Turkish breakfasts and a nice view.

What are your favorite restaurants?

I’m a big fan of Ulus 29. I have seen over the years that they really care about the quality of the food and the wine, as well as the service, so every time you go it is an excellent experience. I also really like Mikla, La Brise, Sunset, and Giritli.

What food do you miss the most when away from Istanbul?

Turkish feta cheese.

What is your favorite view in the city?

The view from Mikla, because you see the Bosphorus as well as the old and the new cities.

What is your favorite weekend break from Istanbul?

Visiting vineyards in Tekirdağ and Lavanda Hotel in Şile – they have excellent food and wine.

These are only small segments from the many plots that will come alive on stages big and small all over Istanbul for this year’s Theatre Festival hosted by the Istanbul Foundation for Culture and Arts (IKSV). The festival, marking the foundation’s 40^th year of existence, will run between May 5^th until June 5^th featuring a rich mural of productions.

While leaning heavily on Turkish theatre, the festival will also include plays from a more international scope, including works from Germany, France, England, and Switzerland.

Plays from the international segment include:

Thomas Ostermeier, of the Schaubühne Berlin, interprets Shakespeare’s famous Hamlet with his avant garde style taking the form of a camera that allows viewers to keep track of all characters simultaneously. The play, which usually includes twenty characters, will only feature six actors, including the famous Lars Eidinger who will be playing Hamlet himself.

Famous French choreographers JoséMontalvo and Dominique Hervieu take Monteverdi’s Baroque Opera Orfeo combining music, dance, and painting with seven dancers and nine musicians from the world famous Cirque du Soleil. The main character of young Orfeo will be played by famous dancer Luca Patuelli who was born with a muscle disorder that affects his legs.

Franz Kafka’s short story Kafka’s Monkey (Kafka’nın Maymunu) about a monkey who aims to protect its life by trying to act human is successfully depicted by actor Kathryn Hunter, winner of the Laurence Olivier Award, who has worked with important directors such as Peter Brook. The play is directed by Walter Meierjohann.

Hans or Heiri (Hans yada Heiri) will be performed upon a 360 degree rotating stage, combining the circus, dance, and music. Swiss performers Martin Zimmermann and Dimitri de Perrot, and other stage members of equal agility, will perform silently in a rotating house composed of four different rooms.

The 1950s play by Eugène Ionesco entitled Rhinoceros (Gergedan) served as a criticism of the upsurge of Communism, Fascism, and Nazism after World War II. This time French director Emmanuel Demarcy-Mota will recreate the absurdity of a town where every person slowly turns into a rhinoceros.

Notable Turkish productions include:

Love Letters(Aşk Mektupları) a Pulitzer price nominated play by A.R. Gurney, revolves around two characters who live separated lives but read the notes, letters and cards they have written to one another for the past fifty years. The play is an unconventional love story, and will be performed by Turkish Theater legends Müşfik Kenter and Kadriye Kenter.

Anthony and Cleopatra(Antonius ve Kleopatra) the love story told by the words of Shakespeare is coming to Turkey for the first time with the very famous and talented actors Haluk Bilginer and Zerrin Tekindor as the main characters. Make sure to see the play, directed by Kemal Aydoğan, before it premiers in this year’s “Shakespeare’s Globe 2012 International Shakespeare Festival” in London.

I am Bertold Brecht(Ben Bertold Brecht) will be performed and directed by famous theater actor Genco Erkal where the poetry, stories, and songs of Bertold Brecht are visually explored, cabaret style. Along with actress Tülay Günal and Yiğit Özatalay on piano, the order of the world and the ravages of war will be questioned.

The festival will also highlight Chinese culture in Turkey with three special events:

The Shanghai Song and Dance Ensemble, one of the most prestigious of its kind, will be bringing the ethnic dance drama of China to Istanbul on the 5^th and 6^th of May.

The Beijing Opera Group, will blend singing, reading, acting, fighting, and dancing into one for its Istanbul audience on the 7^th and 8^th of May.

Beijing Dragon and Lion Street Theatre will bring the colors and characters of China to Istiklal street and Tünel for everyone to enjoy on the 8^th of May.

There is of course much more. To view the entire festival program, head to the official website.

Lentil and Goat's Cheese Salad at House Cafe: Now that spring is here, it's all the more enjoyable to lunch at the House Cafe branch in Ortaköy. Their lentil and goat's cheese salad, topped with a small tower of greens, is a delicious,healthful option. Salhane Sokak No. 1, Ortaköy; P: (0212) 227 26 99

Çingene and Pirpirim Salad at ZerafEt:Some of the greatest things are found in the most unlikely places, like flavorful salads at a kebab restaurant. ZerafEt is one of the best kebab restaurants in Istanbul (it made it to our Editor’s Choice list in March), and, in addition to a range of delicious meat dishes (click here to read about them all), their menu includes a range of salads, like our favorite çingene salatası(which literally means gypsy salad). It is made with a mix of 14 different greens (that change seasonally), and, on our visit, included rocket,pirpirim(wild purslane), basil, cucumber, beetroot, pomegranate seeds, green onions, lolorosso, topped with virgin olive oil,nar ekşisi, and lemon. The runner up was the gloriousAntep pirpirim salatası, made with fresh purslane, fresh onions, cucumber, green olives, tomato, sumac, flaked red pepper, oregano, dry mint, and topped with virgin olive oil andnar ekşisi.Adnan Saygun Caddesi Leylah Apartmanı No.1 14/B, Ulus; P: (0212) 352 60 75

GBK Salad at GBK: Another unlikely find was the GBK Salad at GBK, one of Istanbul’s best burger joints. Made with mixed greens, fresh onions, cherry tomatoes, pine nuts, and avocado, this delicious salad can almost be considered a substitute for their juicy burgers.Kanyon Shopping Mall, Büyükdere Caddesi No. 185, Levent; P: (0212) 353 03 23

Warm potato salad with sprouted lentils at Journey:Located in the heart of Cihangir,Journeyis the meeting spot of Istanbul’s artists and hipsters. You’ll find a range of delicious dishes here, one of which is a very rare salad. The energizingçimlendirilmiş mercimekli ılık patates salatasıis made with sprouted lentils, rocket, cress, fresh coriander, and potatoes. Theirrokalı pancar salatası, made with rocket, beetroot, goat’s cheese, cranberries, and walnuts (with a sauce of your choice), is also a great choice.Akarsu Caddesi No.21/A, Cihangir; P: (0212) 244 89 89

Wheat and sea bass salad at Numnum:One of the great things about Numnum is its comprehensive menu. Here, you’ll get a range of salad options as well, 10 to be exact. The best we’ve had so far is the taze otlu buğday & ızgara levrek salatası, made with wheat, grilled sea bass, grilled vegetables, tomatoes, and greens, topped with vinaigrette sauce and served with rye crisps.Kanyon Shopping Mall, Büyükdere Caddesi No. 185, Levent; P: (0212) 353 07 08

Purslane and Fresh spices salads at Backyard: Whether you’re sitting outside by the garden or enjoying the cozy interior, Backyard is a great spot for lunch. Their semizotu ve şeftali salad, made with Backyard-grown purslane, grilled peaches, and sweet lor peyniri (soft, ricotta-likecheese) from the Aegean city of Çeşme, sprinkled with pomegranate molasses and olive oil is a delicious salad. Another very green and tasty salad is the taze baharat salatası, made with baby spinach, rocket, parsley, dill, thyme, and oven-fried almonds, sprinkled with olive oil and lemon. Bebeköy Sokak No. 1, Etiler; P: (0212) 287 15 00

Tomato Salad at Balıkçı Kahraman:This simple but delicious salad isBalıkçı Kahraman’s specialty. They won’t get into too much detail, but the main ingredients are organic tomatoes, high-quality olive oil, and vinegar. Perfectaccompaniment to grilled fish.Iskele Caddesi No. 15, Rumeli Kavağı; P: (0212) 242 64 47

1. Yankee Candle at Tepehome: Yankee Candle is an American brand that has been making scented candles and candle accessories since 1969. With hundreds of different scents, the collection is constantly updated with new additions and is available for sale at Tepehome.

2. Voluspa: Trop and Traci Artnsen are the names behind the Voluspa collection of luxurious candles that are favored by such renowned retail stores as Saks Fifth Avenue and Harvey Nichols as well as Hollywood celebrities. Collections display a rich array of scents and can be found at Simple Life.

3. Simple Life: Apart from carrying the Voluspa line of candles, Dört Mevsim also offers a unique 75cm long candle in a coffee-colored hue most notable for not dripping or flickering due to the quality of its wax.

4. Jo Malone: Famous for its perfumes that capture the essence of the most lush flowers, Jo Malone’s candles exude the same smell into the spaces they inhabit. Scents range from wild bluebell, to mandarin, to wild fig and cassis among others and can be found in its Kanyon Shopping Center store.

5. Tay Mum: Offers a unique collection of candles in the shape of kaftans, antique columns, Greek motifs, Ottoman motifs, or Arabic script perfect for adding a touch of aesthetic to the home candle experience.

6. Ikea: While offering everything imaginable for the home, Ikea’s candles are also noteworthy, ranging in color and scent to shape and size. Make sure to take a look and a sniff next time you wander around Ikea’s showroom.

7. Lokum Istanbul: Known for their delicious array of Turkish delight served in unique pom pom and toile decorated boxes, Lokum’s candles also possess a unique range of scents and shapes. From the fez shaped silver candle smelling of orange or apple cinammon, to the Myndos Breeze candle smelling of Mandarin amongst many more, every candle seems to be ready to tell its own story.

Akın Balık

Rakı served in Turkish tea glasses is how it goes at Akın Balık steps away from the Golden Horn with a view of the old city. There is also, of course, meze and fresh fish available, with a subtle wave of Turkish music decorating the air above deep conversations and unwinding gazes.Perşembe Pazarı Ali Yazıcı Sokak Eski Gümrük Han Karaköy; P:(0212) 244 97 76

Köfteci Ali Baba

In a city full of köfte joints, Köfteci Ali Babastill manages to stand above the crowd. Located in Arnavutköy, this is a favorite with Turkish celebrities.Arnavutköy Mahallesi Bebek Caddesi No.69 Arnavutköy; P: (0212) 263 13 61

Adem Baba

This no-frills fish restaurant is located in the waterside Arnavutköy neighborhood. In addition to the tasty fish, during the winter months it also serves some of the best fish soup in town.Satış Meydanı Sokak No.2 Arnavutköy; P: (0212) 263 29 33

Fıccın

Fıccın is one of the few restaurants in the city specializing in food from the Circassian region of the Caucasus mountains. Be sure to sample their extra plump version of mantı, dumplings stuffed with meat or potato, and the namesake ficcın börek, which is very different from its Turkish counterpart.İstiklal Caddesi Kallavi Sokak Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 293 37 86

Şehzade Erzurum Cağ Kebabı

Cağ kebabı, from the Erzurum region, is composed of lamb meat that has been marinated in onion salt and pepper and then cooked over a wood fire horizontally. Served with lavaş (thin flatbread), this two floor restaurant is the best place to feast on this delicacy.Hocapaşa Sokak No.3/A Sirkeci; P: (0212) 520 33 61

Çiya Sofrası

One of the best restaurants on the city’s Asian side, Çiya has three branches clustered together, all serving the same mouth-watering regional cuisine from all over the country. Even many Turks have a hard time recognizing some of the dishes on this unique menu.Güneşli Bahçesi Sokak No. 43 Kadıköy; P: (0216) 330 31 90

Aslan

Located on the second floor of a building overlooking the Grand Bazaar, this esnaf (tradesmen) restaurant has been open since 1988 and has a menu that changes daily and features traditional hot and cold dishes. The restaurants also has a variety of fish available, that is either grilled or stewed.Vezirhan Caddesi No. 70 Çemberlitaş; P: (0212) 513 76 10

Located in the Bosphorous neighborhood of Ortaköy and housed in a beautifully restored Ottoman-era mansion, Hazal Kilim & Halı is an established store known for the quality of its goods. Founded and run by the elegant Ms. Engin Demirkol for over 25 years, the shop specializes in carpets and kilims from Anatolia.

Over the years, Hazal Kilim & Halı has built a strong reputation with both locals and visitors, and they have a long list of loyal clientele. Ms. Demirkol has spent the last two decades carefully choosing each item to build up her distinctive collection, travelling through the countryside to hunt for the best carpets and kilims that Anatolia has to offer. Her daughter Hazal whom the shop is named after has also joined the family business.

After having established a strong presence in the carpet industry, Ms. Demirkol has now started to branch out into other products, using her incredibly rich stock of carpets and textiles to create her own custom-made pieces. As well as one-of-a-kind cushions made from antique fabrics that are interwoven with new materials, she also creates original carpets, often working with her daughter.

Unlike traditional patchwork carpets which consist of a number of smaller pieces, usually taken from various old carpets, the pieces at Hazal Hali tend to use larger pieces and work with the character of the original carpets. While some pieces blend several different carpets and tapestries to striking effect, other will take the existing beauty of an antique carpet and compliment it with something as simple as a bit of embroidery and a lining.

Over the years it has become harder and harder to find good quality antique carpets as the sources have dried up. And at the same time, Ms. Demirkol has noticed a current trend in which consumers are turning away from more traditional carpets and motifs and are instead interested in more modern and innovative creations, with such carpets becoming increasingly in demand. No doubt, a part of the reason that such carpets are so popular is the fact that they fit in very well with the décor of modern homes.

Indeed, many of Ms. Demirkol’s carpets are more like pieces of modern art, reminiscent of Rothko paintings with their bold color blocks. These unique works of art would certainly fit into even the most modern and minimalistic interiors. After working in the sector for many years, Ms. Demirkol not only has an incredible wealth of knowledge on Turkish carpets and textiles, but also a very keen eye for fabrics that complement each other and work well together. The pieces all have the rich and deep colors of natural root dyes.

The majority of Ms. Demirkol’s pieces originate from Anatolia, the Caucasus, and Central Asia, and she is more than happy to explain the unique history behind each item. As for Hazal Hali’s range of cushions, these are nothing like the mass-produced version you find in most shops. Each one is an original, and often, a sample is designed for clients, and then Ms. Demirkol creates bespoke pieces based on their tastes and requests.

Many new customers come to the store through word of mouth, and are quickly impressed byMs. Demirkol’s love of carpets and textiles, and often share her passion. Her philosophy for shopping is that when buying a carpet or cushion, you should always buy a piece that you absolutely love. With so many unique designs to choose from, the hardest part could well be not finding a piece you love, but deciding which one to take home.Mecidiyeköy Köprüsü Sokak No.9 Ortaköy; P: (0212) 261 72 33

The reason for this obliviousness, in a place known for its silence, is the 12,000 item collection, that demands full and thorough attention. From a black and white photo of Brigitte Bardot taken by Richard Avedon, to the curling dark blue waves of Katsushika Hokusai, a visual history of Barbie or Gucci, the turquoise and red motifs of Islamic Art, all the way to guerilla advertising and the pink-and-thick-black-marker-blur of pop art. A childish wonder and a bit of impatient enthusiasm takes over when faced with the endless pages that contain all the various beauties of human achievements just awaiting to divulge their identities.

The project, which began from scratch in 2007, has been designed to be a hub for those interested or more specifically, studying in the fields of Fashion, Architecture, Cinema, Art, or Photography. On such terms, the collection is truly invaluable, and the only one of its kind in Istanbul, with a sturdy support in the form of a brand known for its luxury and personalized service. Special editions, autographed copies, and limited copies, among others, offer the kind of information and visuals the internet age can never fathom.

Visiting the books is by appointment only because of a focus on the value of one-on-one interaction with the librarians and books are not allowed to be taken out. The supervisor, Begüm Başoğlu, reminds one of Katharine Hepburn in 1957’s Desk Set, before the ominous rumble of the computer arrived, with a distaste for the impersonal traits of the technological world and awaiting to help the curious who share her love for the hand written and palpably published.

All in all, the Vitali Hakko Creative Industries Library is a place for original research or simply to dwell for hours, satiating a need for the black and white glamour and equal mystery of the past where things seemed to possess a meaning that has since abated. Whatever your intentions, the books will not let you go, and if you are lucky the voice of Ella Fitzgerald, escaping laptop speakers to fill the room, will accompany your journey. Kuşbakışı Cad. No.35, Nakkaştepe; Appointments can be made weekdays between 10am-5:30pm by phone or email P: (0216) 554 08 54; kutuphane@vakko.com.tr; For more information visit the library’s Facebook page.

1. Flowers, flowers, flowers:It’s the blooming flowers all around the city that make Istanbul so beautiful during spring. Istanbul bursts with color and life, filled with green, pink, yellow, and purple flowers everywhere. The best way to enjoy this is by walking around Emirgan Korusu and seeing the tulips, which survive only for a short period of time.

2. Enjoy the sun at a restaurant with a garden:Backyard is an obvious answer to all your fresh-air, chill-out, blue sky, green grass needs. Enjoy it in the morning or the afternoon, for breakfast or lunch. We love their fırında mücver (baked vegetable patty), grilled steak sandwich, and Devil’s Food Cake. We also love watching the sun go down with a cocktail in one hand.

3. Go drinking at a bar with a terrace:It’s out with indoor bars and in with outdoor bars. And what better place to make this transition but at one of Istanbul’s best – Sunset Grill & Bar. Enjoy a glass of your favorite cocktail, looking over the imposing Bosphorus views.

4. Soak up the Bosphorus view:Now that the weather permits sitting outside, there are many more ways to enjoy the fantastic Bosphorus view. If you want a casual day or night at a humble fish restaurant right by the sea, we suggest Suna’nın Yeri. If you’d rather go for something fancy, check out Ortaköy’s Asian Fusion restaurant Banyan with an impressive view of the Ortaköy Mosque and the Bosphorus Bridge.

5. Island getaway:They may not compare to their tropical sisters, but the Princes’ Islands serve as a great getaway from Istanbul’s hustle and bustle, especially during spring with blooming flowers and (fingers crossed) less of an invasion from local and international tourists. You can hop on and off the vapur (ferry), and take a look at all the islands, or go straight to the largest one Büyükada and spend an entire day or weekend there.

6. Walk along the coastal neighborhoods: If you’ve missed the neighborhoods along the Bosphorus during the cold Istanbul days, it’s time to put the track suits and sneakers on, and trek through them once again. For those on the European Side, we suggest starting out right by the Çırağan Palace in Beşiktaş, and walking all the way through Ortaköy (with pit stops by the jewelry stands, of course), Kuruçeşme, Arnavutköy, and treat yourself to a hearty meal in Bebek. Alternatively, you can take off in Bebek, and walk all the way through Emirgan, Sarıyer, İstinye, and finish at Yeniköy. If you’re on the Asian Side, take off in Üsküdar, through the nostalgic neighborhood of Kuzguncuk, all the way to Beylerbeyi, which is famous for the Beylerbeyi Palace, and end your trek at Çengelköy, a classic Bosphorus neighborhood that is blooming with Judas trees.

7. Juice up:Treat your body to a natural invigorator: a glass of freshly squeezed juice! Just stop by one of the vendors that line the hill from Tünel to Galata, and take your pick from the season’s freshest.

This is just the type of place where you could easily take visiting guests for a kebab experience that will impress. Indeed, Okka has the menu of a traditional kebab house but with a stylish and sleek décor that is not usually associated with such venues. They even have a resident belly dancer, but Okka’s version is in fact a 3D hologram image reflected in the center of the room, while the marble bar and turquoise tiled walls add to the swank décor.

When it comes to the menu, there is a relatively small meze selection, but they were all very tasty and well done. There are also a couple of different items for those who want to try something unique, like the black eyed peas served with a tahini and mustard sauce, or the julienned celery root served with yogurt sauce. These are all served with delicious freshly baked puffy pide bread.

The menu also offers a number of warm appetizers including grilled Halloumi cheese, steamed pastırma served in parchment paper and mini lahmacun (Turkish flat bread topped with mince, tomato sauce and spices). However, if you would prefer to not fill up before the grilled meat dishes, there are number of excellent salads such as the “Toros” salad of various chopped greens and herbs served with a pomegranate dressing, and çölelekand roka salad in which roka and farmer’s cheese is served on a bed of ribbon thin zucchinis.

Of course the headline attractions are the kebabs, with a wide variety on offer. Along with many classics such as Adana and Urfa kepap, there is also the house specialty of friend semolina stuffed with minced lamb. There are also several chicken options, such as the tavuk şiş (grilled chicken) in which the chicken is marinated, resulting in a juicy and tender kebab served with paper think lavaşbread and grilled tomato and green pepper.

To accompany your meal you can chose from the wine list which is exclusively Turkish, dominated by major local producers, or you can opt to try one of the many rakıs on offer. In fact, Okka offers the unique Self Pour Rakı service which allows you to sample from a range of rakıs without committing to buying the whole bottle, for you only pay for how many servings you consume.

For dessert, the carrot and pistachio baklava comes recommended, as does the rose flavored crème brûlée. For those who want a slightly lighter finish to their meal, the dessert menu also includes date ice cream, Malatya apricot sorbet and tahini helva ice cream, which was divine. More like a full desert, with chunks of helva and a perfect flavor that was not too sweet, this ice cream alone is reason enough for repeat visits.W Hotel Istanbul Süleyman Seba Caddesi 22, Akaretler Beşiktaş; P: (0212) 381 21 89

The casting for their first show took place during the first weeks of 2011. “It was tough,” recounts Heather, “very few people showed up, so we had to hold three auditions in total to get the cast.” She used every resource available, from opening a Facebook page and constructing a webpage to bringing in friends of friends to get together a cast of “15 of the finest amateurs.” They finally had enough people to make their first production, Love and Other Nonsense in which five short plays, monologues, and original songs were presented at Hayal Kahvesi Bistro during the second week of April 2011. The tickets for the show were sold out, and the capacity of the rather small performance space was overflown with curious expats and locals who enjoyed the show, giving it positive reviews and demanding another one. Auditions for the second performance were held right away.

Many more people showed up to these auditions and a new crew was chosen for the second play. The initial rehearsals were often held at different bars in the Beyoğlu area. These meetings happen in a rather joyful environment where drinks and jokes flow all night, but it is Heather who keeps everyone in line. She is famous for being very strict with rehearsal schedules, and that’s simply because of her commitment to each show. During the past year,The Square Peg Theatre Troupe has gotten much more professional, and Heather acknowledges the learning curve based on her experiences of directing the crew. “Many mistakes were made during the first plays,” she remembers jokingly. “I had the crazy idea of buying everyone’s drinks during the first rehearsals. Most of the actors are heavy drinkers and it ended up putting a strain on my wallet.”

Since their second show, the Troupe has been playing original sketches written and directed by some of the crew members. “We get together with Heather and a few others to have a couple of drinks and brainstorm ideas,” comments Jordan Duquette, who has been with the crew from the start. “We then vote with the rest of the Troupe and choose the best ideas to work on sketches. Also, we encourage all the other members of the crew to write their own material,” he says.

This collaborative effort changed the tone and rhythm of the performances, as many of the sketches are now based on the crew's experiences of living in Turkey with all its idiosyncrasies and peculiarities. Expats who go to the shows feel a strong personal connection with the stories, which closely relate to their daily lives. The expats’ shared adventure of life in Istanbul draws in bigger crowds of foreigners to each performance. That’s why, after their third show, the Troupe now presents their show at Romeo and Juliet, which has a much bigger space than Hayal Kahvesi Bistro.

Even though the Troupe is still a non-profit community group, their rehearsals and performances are getting much more professional. They are now able to incorporate audiovisual elements to their shows. For example, during their last show, they performed original songs with live musicians on stage. They have also integrated videos and short films into their shows, all created by the Troupe. More recently, they have introduced the concept of themed shows. For Halloween and Christmas, the Troupe performed small shows, complemented with parties where people dressed accordingly and from which the proceeds went to finance the group’s activities.

Perhaps most importantly, they no longer rehearse at Beyoğlu bars. They rented a rehearsal space, which used to be a sweatshop, in Tarlabaşı. The Space, as it has been named, is a place that Heather and the crew intend to turn into a cultural center that would be open for anyone who wants to hold writing workshops, small exhibitions, poetry readings, movie nights, open mic nights, or present small theatrical shows and other types of cultural activity. Right now, The Space is still in the making, and it heavily relies on donations from good souls that have seen the potential of the crew and their ideas.

Thousands of foreigners who live in Istanbul sometimes have a hard time finding activities suited for them, especially when it comes to performing arts. Theater is definitively one of those areas with a lack of options for people who don’t speak Turkish. For an ever-growing population of expats living in Istanbul, The Square Peg Theatre Troupe fills this gap. A profit-minded person might ask, “And what’s in it for them if they are not making any money?” But as one of the crew members said during the interview, “Instead of sitting around drinking beer and complaining about life, why not just do something productive to entertain ourselves, maybe entertain other people and make new friends on the way.”

Impressions of Ottoman Culture in Europe: 1453-1699 by Nurhan Atasoy and Lale Uluç, published by The Turkish Cultural Foundation (TCF) and ARMAGGAN Publications explores European impressions of the Ottoman Empire. Written in English and also translated into Turkish, this project is the product of six years of research by the authors spanning 14 different countries.

The book studies the cultural influences Ottoman cultural had on Europe in the early modern age, a time when the expansion of the Ottoman Empire created shared borders and intense political, diplomatic and trade ties with Europe. Atasoy and Uluc not only provide a thorough intellectual narrative on the cultural and artistic exchanges between the Ottomans and various European cultures, but have also created a visually stunning book with 400 images. The book has special sections devoted to Textiles, Tiles and Ceramics, Arms and Armor, Turkish Image, and more.This beautiful and impressive book is available for purchase at the Armaggan book store and can also be ordered online at www.turkishcultureshop.org.

Grilled Fish

The ubiquitous waterfront views that decorate the Istanbul experience are also the inspiration behind fresh fish served in the simplest manner. Grilled, with an accompanying lemon and leafy greens (most often arugula), fish is a variant and delicious option.

Vegetables (Cold)

Vegetables cooked with olive oil and served cold are one of the most popular options in the Turkish kitchen and sometimes constitute as a whole meal rather than just an appetizer, especially in the warmer months. Cold vegetable dishes make use of bakla (horse bean), pırasa (leek), yer elması (sunchoke), barbunya (kidney bean), kereviz (celery), and enginar (artichoke).

Vegetables (Hot)

Other vegetables are cooked and served hot, sometimes accompanied by yoghurt. The best way to cook these vegetables is in a pressure cooker to make sure that the vitamins and minerals of the vegetable are not lost. The four most common dishes in this category are kurufasulye (white beans), taze fasulye (string beans), bezelye (peas)semizotu (purslane), and ıspanak (spinach), kabak kalyesi (squash cooked with tomatoes, onions and dill).

Yoghurt

Yoghurt sometimes appears as a kind of universal sauce for a lot of dishes, whether meat or vegetable. However yoghurt is also served as a drink, appropriate with a bit of salt and served cold in the summer months (ayran).

Bulgur and Lentils

Bulgur (cracked wheat) is healthy alternative to rice and can be complemented with various vegetables such as lentil or spinach to make an all around delicious meal. Lentils are a big part of Turkish cooking displayed in various forms from mercimek çorbası (red lentil soup) or mercimek yemeği (green lentil soup) to mercimek köftesi (lentil balls).

A wise wine expert once said that the only truth behind the art of tasting and enjoying wine was to trust one’s palate and therefore believe in its judgment and preferences. If this means that you will have to call a$2,000 bottle a perfect specimen of garbage juice, then so be it.

This advice came to mind, while the cork from a bottle of Gülor’s Malbec Öküzgözü, only one from among many bottles on display at Solera Wine Bar in Galatasaray, slowly slid out of the narrow space of its bottle neck, allowing the compressed to dissipate. The owner of the space, Süleyman Er, looked on as the first and most decisive sip was taken, with the tips of three fingers directing the glass forward and up, allowing for the inevitable reaction between crimson liquid and palate to occur. The reaction was extremely positive.

Er continued to pour, something he has done many times, with a past in the restaurant wine serving business and an interest in wine that took him all the way to the vineyards of South America for self-initiated research. Now, as the owner of Solera, Er’s passion for the grape has turned into a small and consequently intimate space decorated with a giant print of wine grapes on one wall and black and white photography, from one of his trips to Katmandu, on the other. Shelves display an array of bottles, both domestic and international, brought in from independent boutiques, among others. Shiraz, Malbec, Öküzgözü, Boğazkere, Merlot goes the list and up to a variety above an impressive number of 1100.

Apart from the wine, a light menu of cold appetizers is served, and if you choose to take your wine home, a 25\\\\% discount is automatically presented, since the bar is also a small wine shop. The photos also happen to be on sale for those interested, while the collection of other photographers are put up for sale intermittently.

Whether you are a wine enthusiast or not, Solera offers a place to have a conversation without interruption, before or after a night out. And if you need some advice about which bottle to open, Er will surely show you the way. Yeniçarşı Caddesi No.4; P: (0212) 252 27 19

Tell us about Yıldız Lux. What sets it apart?

Yıldız Lux is a family-owned company that was founded in 1985 by my father. Now, my sister Ece Fıratlı and I own and manage it together. We are a very customer-based firm, and that’s why almost all of our carpets are one-of-a-kind. We use 100\% New Zealand wool of the highest quality and 100\% natural silk thread.

And for those who don’t necessarily know much about carpets, what difference does it make to use wool and natural materials?

Consumers are much more educated now than they were in the past. They not only look at the aesthetics but also at the quality and standards of the carpet. Their preferences are towards natural materials, and we use all natural materials, we never use synthetic.Other than wool, we use silk and viscose. Using these materials ensures that the carpets are stain resistant and they don’t give you electric shock. The carpets are also anti-bacterial, anti-allergic, and durable.

What kinds of motifs and designs do you use?

It really depends on what the customer wants since all the carpets are custom-made. Many of our carpets do feature revised and modernized versions of Turkish and Ottoman motifs.

Can you tell us more about how custom-made carpets work?

It’s a very personal process, which, at the end, makes the customer very happy, knowing that they have a piece in their home that they took an active part in designing. After all, it’s their tastes, needs, and preferences that the design team bases the designs on. What’s great about custom-made carpets is that they allow customers freedom to choose color, pile height, embroidery, and the material used.

And you also make custom-made carpets for kids’ rooms, right?

Yes, we do. We can create carpets in any shape we want, such as in the shape of a dog, bird, or fairy. Also, all carpets used in kids' rooms are health certified by doctors.

What kind of techniques do you use?

We use the hand-tufted technique, which my dad brought to Turkey for the first time. We can refer to this technique as the modern hand-weaving technique of European carpets that utilize machines in the weaving process. The technique allows quality control on a millimeter basis, and that’s why it’s a great technique.

What kind of customers do you have? Foreign? Local? Households? Corporations?

We have a wide variety of customers, mainly locals who want carpets for their homes, but also foreigners, statesmen, government offices, and yacht owners.

You make carpets for yachts?

Yes, we certainly do. In fact, we have a solid yacht-owner customer base because we are among the few carpet stores in Istanbul that make carpets based on the rules and regulations that yacht owners need to follow. For example, the carpets in yachts have to be 100\\\\% wool and nonflammable. In addition to providing such carpets, we create designs based on the customers’ needs, so this makes us very attractive to yacht owners.

And what does the process of making custom-made carpets include?

It’s a very personal process actually. For example, if we were to make a carpet for a house, we often meet with the lady of the house and see what the house has on offer. How much space is there? What kinds of furniture have been used or will be used? Is it a modern or a traditional house? What kinds of curtains are there or will there be? Our aim is to create something unique for each house, something that the customer wants, something that feels personal to them. So we create three design options, and the customer picks the one that feels right.

And all these designs are unique?

Yes. The design team's principle is to create unique designs in each project. Some customers make a specific request that they don’t want their design to be used for any other house, and we respect that. Others don’t have such requests, and in those cases it is possible to base a carpet on a previous design, but it always turns out to be something unique because we still change certain things, like the size or color.

Eda’s Istanbul

A previous ice skating champion, piano and guitar player, a definite shopaholic, Eda is one sweet lady that lives Istanbul to the fullest. She dances, she sings, she goes to concerts, and she certainly does a lot of shopping. Here is what her Istanbul is like:

What you love most about Istanbul: The chaos. It's good for creativity.

Favorite spot for business dinners: Ulus 29

Favorite venue for dancing:Lucca

Favorite live music venues:Babylon, Nardis, Jolly Joker

Favorite Turkish bands/musicians:Bülent Ortaçgil and Pinhani

Favorite spots for relaxing:Sanda Spa for a well-deserved massage and Uzunya in Kilyos

Favorite activity with your daughter: Eating ice-cream at Mini Dondurma and rollerblading in Bebek

Favorite shopping areas:IstinyeParkandMidnight Express

Favorite restaurants:Le Fumoir, Ulus 29, Vogue (for sushi), Big Chefs

The boutique hotel in the middle of Şişhane is not your usual temporary abode and it is made clear from the moment you enter the building, erected in 1874. A historical feel is still alive in the details allowed to linger among the fresh renovations of the hotel’s interior. The past renders itself evident in the form of an original gray marble sink, budding pink roses in the remnants of frescoes, the blur of age in old wooden doors used as headboards, or the geometric black and white motifs of a marble floor with a crack running through it like a dried vein.

What the present has added, and with minute purpose, is a natural element. Every detail of Adahan exhibits harmony in relationship, from the natural fiber curtains and towels to the handmade wooden furniture and lamps present in all forty individually designed rooms. The top floor, with the elevator doors opening to reveal a blinding ray of light, is home to a restaurant that serves daily breakfast and a light afternoon and dinner menu. The terrace, where large potted plants sway in the wind, has a view of the Golden Horn present in its entirety. Along with modern amenities, the hotel also offers two meeting rooms and one dining room that can be reserved upon request.

If there is anything you need to remember about Adahan, before you make your reservation, it is a peaceful simplicity and minimalism contained in an almost healing silence, offered in the middle of a city where such qualities are becoming increasingly rare.

Asmalı Mescit Mahallesi General Yazgan Sokak No.14, Şişhane; P: (0212) 243 85 81

1.Meditate with candles, essential oils, and incense: Meditation is undoubtedly one of the best methods to relax, to find balance, and to de-stress. Before, during, or after meditation, use the power of aromatherapy. We suggest you buy scented or unscented candles from Jo Malone. Simple Life’s Japanese incents smell fantastic and are ideal for those who often get headaches from regular incents. Essential oils, like lavender, bergamot, and sandalwood, can be found at Zencefil Aktar stores around the city.

2.Do some yoga therapy: Practicing yoga is one thing, practicing yoga therapy is another thing. More often than not, yoga is practiced in groups (at yoga centers or gyms) where the instructor can’t, for practical reasons, dedicate their energies on one individual or organize the class on individual needs. Yoga therapy is a lot more custom-made, geared toward an individual’s needs. Diana Jaramillo is one prominent yoga therapist based in Istanbul who offers private yoga therapy sessions, which are held in customers’ apartments to maximize the safe space that Diana creates. Each session is between 60-90 minutes, and is made up of yoga, breathing, and meditation. The sessions are guided by the customer, as they are based on their needs. The yoga therapy sessions are sought after by those who want to transform their lives, not necessarily change themselves, but resolve deep-seated issues by embodying the situation and feeling it in the body. It is a deep work on issues and is strongly suggested for those who want to enhance their lives. Diana’s sessions can be held in English, Spanish, and Turkish, and she can be contacted at 0544 607 26 08 or through her facebook page.

3. Visit old churches and mosques: Visiting old churches and mosques is not necessarily a religious act but a spiritual one. Touching worn-out walls, sitting on crooked chairs communicates, on some level, the spirits of all those who have been there before us. With such a rich history, Istanbul offers many historic churches and mosques. Just choose the one that speaks to you, visit it, and see what happens. In our Sightseeing Listings, you’ll find a list of mosques,Armenian Churches, Catholic Churches, Orthodox Churches, Protestant Churches, Russian Orthodox Churches.

4. Carry prayer beads:Although widely used by many Turkish men to beat boredom,tesbih (Turkish prayer beads) are traditionally used for prayer. Similar practices are found in various other religions, including Buddhism and Christianity. Besides their religious purposes, prayer beads can also be used for stress relief and during different forms of meditation. You can find an incredible selection oftesbihmade from a range of semi-precious materials at Tesbihçi Cemil ve Kadir Karateke.

5. Buy jewelry:We’re not really talking about retail therapy but about the healing energies of semi-precious stones. AtTohum, you’ll find a range of unique and powerful stones, such as Kyanite and Agate from Brazil, Prehnite from Namibia, Mookaite from Australia, and Larimar from the Dominican Republic. All these stones have exceptional healing properties. For example, Larimar illuminates an individual's spiritual path, bringing feelings of empowerment and precision of purpose. It also works to dissolve self-imposed restrictions as well as physical and mental blockages. Kyanite, on the other hand, can help spiritual energy to manifest in thought. It also facilitates dream recall, promotes healing dreams, encourages self- expression and communication, and assists in detaching from the idea of blind fate or implacable karma. To see all Tohum designs, check out their website here. To contact Verda Alaton, the designer behind the Tohum brand, email info@tohumdesign.com.

6. Listen to music: Even if we may forget it sometimes, we know that all we have is this moment, the present. And it may not always be easy to stay in that moment and enjoy it, but there are ways of staying in the now. Listening to music is one such way. One musician that we strongly suggest is the internationally-recognized Mercan Dede, a Turkish composer, neyandbendirplayer, DJ, and producer who is also known as Arkın Allen. He has several different projects going on at the same time, such as DJ Arkın Allen Tribal Duo and Istanbul Quartet, but he’s best known for his fusion of electronic sounds and traditional Turkish tunes. Of his previous albums,Seyahatname,Su, andNarare the most famous ones.

7. Swim with dolphins:Hug and kiss a dolphin, let it swirl around you and generate lots of energy, dance and sing with them for a therapeutic session. Although not medically proven, many argue that swimming with dolphins is healing at best and a positive experience at worst. If you want to swim with dolphins in Istanbul, you can do so at the Istanbul Dolphinarium.

So next time you’re in need of an impressive bouquet to set things right, take a look at our list of best florists in Istanbul.

Flower House: Flower House takes a wild approach to flower arranging by sprucing up bouquets and arrangements with colorful, fresh-from-the-garden flowers. From gorgeously simple to the naturally quirky, you’ll find just what you’re looking for at Flower House.Yıldız Mahallesi Ihlamur Caddesi No.3/A, Beşiktaş; P: (0212) 259 29 17

Lisan-ı Ezhar: Lisan-ı Ezhar translates into "language of the flower," a title befitting of this special flower shop. Owned by a sculptor, who uses specially imported flowers from Holland, the store boasts unique creations that range from bouquets to arrangements and everything in between. Köybaşı Caddesi No.88/2A, Yeniköy; P: (0212) 299 04 03

Ege Soley: After trainingas a florist in the romantic city of Paris, Ege Soley returned to Istanbul in 2011 and opened up Ege Soley Event & Corporate Flowering in Akaretler. A strong believer in simplicity with a passion to bring beauty to the world, Soley creates colorful and elegant bouquets that make a strong statement with their humility. Süleyman Seba Caddesi No. 83/A, Akaretler; P: (0212) 227 09 22

The film is based on Petro (Elio Germano), a young aspiring actor who has just arrived in Rome in an effort to win the heart of the man he has had a crush on for a long time. His wacky cousin Maria (Paola Minaccioni) helps him find a beautiful old apartment where he settles to start his new life. His hopes are quickly crushed after a series of failed attempts, and he is soon left brokenhearted when the object of his affection rejects him. It is in his depression that he slowly uncovers the mystery behind his apartment. Voices in the night, odd shadows, and other strange phenomena haunt Petro, scaring him off and even making him consider his own sanity. After a few encounters, the ghosts reveal to Petro they are but a harmless group of actors who died in the same apartment Petro lives in now. They soon establish a friendship and the ghosts’ existence gives purpose and meaning to Petro’s disappointing life.

Özpetek’s ability to craft delicate and intriguing stories out of seemingly ordinary characters is once again affirmed in this movie as we see poor Petro struggle with his problems in a rather particular situation. With humor and solid acting, the movie is able to make a surreal situation seem credible, a problem that many ghost stories have. The wonderful vaudeville costumes worn by the ghosts in the house plus the exquisite use of lighting add to the mystery surrounding the characters. Lastly, the beauty of Rome captured on film and the superb soundtrack provided by Turkey’s greatest pop diva Sezen Aksu keep the audience entertained throughout the entire film.

More about Ferzan Özpetek

Ferzan Özpetek was born in Istanbul in 1959. He moved to Italy, where he currently resides, as a student of Cinema History at the Sapienza University in Rome. In 1997 he released his debut film Hamam, which was screened in various film festivals around the world and gave the director a reputation for being daring by touching on social taboos like homosexuality in Turkey. The initial criticisms that he received in Turkey for Hamam was more than compensated when he won the Golden Orange Award for Best Film at the Antalya International Film Festival. In 2003, his fourth film La finestra di fronte was awarded various international prizes, such as the Karlovy Vary International Film Festival’s Crystal Globe Award, the Seattle International Film Festival’s Golden Space Needle, and the David di Donatello Award for Best Director. Magnifica Presenza is his ninth film as a director.

Today, Galata is arguably Istanbul’s coolest neighborhood. This funky area is now home to many small shops and boutiques by Turkish designers, not to mention an increasing number of restaurants, bars and boutique hotels. Unlike many of Istanbul’s older boutique hotels, which focus on historical quaintness, these hotels are heavy on style and design, seamlessly blending historic buildings with modern elegance.

Boutique Hotels in Historical Settings

Alef is one example of this rare breed. It is the culmination of one woman’s passion, dedication, and hard work. Alef is a jewelry store, gallery, and atelier where its owner the master goldsmith Yeşim Yüksek creates the worldly manifestations of her soul. These manifestations, which come in the form of earrings, rings, necklaces, and bracelets, are made using classical goldsmith techniques blended with a modern interpretation and sprinkled with impeccable taste.

We had a chat with the woman behind the sophisticated pieces at Alef, and learned about her techniques, her art, and her Istanbul.

How did you get into the business?

I studied law in university, but while I was studying I realized I was really drawn to jewelry making. I began by creating the accessories collections for Beymen, Vakko, Mepa, Polo Garage, and Park Bravo. I opened my first atelier in Osmanbey in the 1980s, but then moved to İzmir. This is where I had a real introduction to the art, philosophy, and practice of jewelry making. There, I had an apprenticeship next to a master goldsmith for six years. Before then, I knew about design but not as much about production. Throughout my apprenticeship, I learned a variety of invaluable techniques, from melting gold and silver to setting a stone.

What did you do when you first came back to Istanbul?

I came back in the late 1990s and I began teaching. But it was not long before I decided to open my own place.

You opened Alef in 2005. How did the store and its pieces change since then?

Of course, there was a much smaller collection when I first opened Alef. And at its inception, it was just an atelier and gallery. But within the first year, I started selling my pieces.

What kinds of pieces have you done for Alef so far?

Sometimes I do one-of-a-kind pieces, which are highly sought after by collectors. There are also signature pieces, pieces that have become a signpost for Alef. There have also been limited edition collections. You can think of Alef as a constantly growing collection of jewelry.

Why did you name the store Alef?

It comes from Jorge Luis Borges’s story The Aleph.

Which stones do you most often use? What are some unique characteristics of your pieces?

I often use smoky quartz, onyx, aquamarine, and blue topaz. I create all the patterns found in my designs. I like to add surprising elements to my pieces. For example, I often use a subtle pendulum effect. When used with the quartz, it often gives a feeling of a magnifying glass. I do a lot of bezel setting. I also do lots of asymmetrical pieces. I never use glue; the stones are always set in metals. I like using gold and silver together. I often use oxidized silver, which has a brownish color. It brings out the yellow in the gold.I am personally involved in every part of the process of each piece – from the idea that inspires it, to the polishing of the stone, from creating the design to cutting and fixing the stone, from production to sales.

Do you have a favorite piece?

I don’t really. Each piece is like a baby to me. I make each piece with my own hands. Sometimes when I make a new piece, I think that I like it more than others, but it’s just the excitement of having created something new. Sometimes, I’m drawn to much older pieces. But there is one piece – the King Arthur ring – that I wear every day. It has become kind of my signature. People recognize me with it.

Two of your rings, Deco Bride and Gothic Bride, have been included in 21st Century Jewelry: TheBest of the 500 Series, published by Lark Books. Can you tell us more about the rings?

Deco Bride is based on an old drawing. I started playing with it and it turned into what it is today. I always play with stones, designs, drawings, and they don’t always mean anything while I play with them, but they all come together after a point. That’s kind of how Deco Bride came together. Gothic Bride kind of grew out of Deco Bride. I wanted to make Deco Bride a little more masculine, and then Gothic Bride was born - here the stone is upside down, and it carries more gothic elements.

Do you ever buy jewelry?

I design and make jewelry to wear the kind of jewelry that I want. So, no, I don’t really buy jewelry. I used to in the past, but I don’t anymore.

Where do you get your inspiration from?

Illustrations and tales from childhood. Anything related to the Middle Ages, the Gothic, architecture, handicraft, metal workmanship.

What does creativity mean for you?

Creativity is about accumulation. First you have to accumulate, and do something fresh and new with whatever is left on the sifter.

And how do you define talent?

When we are born, we choose what we’re interested in, and that’s the thing we do the most. That’s why people say that we’re talented in that area. But that’s because that area is interesting to us and we keep doing it. So talent is more like practicing what you love.

What would you recommend to aspiring jewelry makers?

The professors of jewelry are master goldsmiths. So I highly recommend that they persist enough to persuade a master goldsmith to take them as an apprentice.

Do you take apprentices?

Yes, I do. But I take on a few pupils. Only the ones who are absolutely determined on becoming master goldsmiths.

Yeşim’s Istanbul:

Favorite neighborhoods:Old neighborhoods by the Bosphorus. Galata, Beyoğlu, the Grand Bazaar. The sahaf çarşısı (second-hand book sellers bazaar) in Beyazıt and Beyoğlu. Neighborhoods with bazaars, Kadıköy for example.

Favorite Turkish food: The food that you find in tradesmen’s restaurants, like eggplant kebab and rice.

Favorite restaurants:Tradesmen’s restaurants, specifically those in and around the Grand Bazaar, for example, Tarihi Subaşı Lokantası and Havuzlu.

Favorite place for breakfast: Saray Muhallebicisi. I love sahanda yumurta (Turkish-style eggs, sunny side up, fried with butter).

Favorite meyhane:The classsics, like Yakup and Refik.

Favorite Turkish artists: The late sculptor Kuzgun Acar for his steel work, the late Abidin Dino, especially his stage designs.

Favorite Turkish designers:Hüseyin Çağlayan.

Favorite Turkish directors:Fatih Akın and Ferzan Özpetek.

Favorite getaway from Istanbul:I get away without getting away – I miss the sea so I go to Ortaköy and Bebek.

What you love most about Istanbul:I love how it’s filled with surprises.

What you least love about Istanbul:It changes all the time.

Ingredients

8 pieces of boneless, skinless chicken breast or thigh (cut into pieces of 4-5cm in size)

3 medium sized onions

3 garlic cloves

2 spicy green peppers (depending on spice level preference)

Ginger (sized at about 4cm) grated

½ tsp of saffron (depending on preference)

1/3 cup of corn oil or sunflower seed oil

50gr. butter

2 and ½ cups of chicken broth

2/3 cups of yoghurt

2/3 cups of cream

2 lemons

2 tsp of cumin

2 tbsp of dried ground cilantro

2 tsp of ground turmeric

1 tsp of jalapeno

2 tsp of salt

1 tsp of pepper

Fresh cilantro, to garnish

Preparation

1. Chop one onion, one clove of garlic, and one green pepper and put them in a blender.

2. Add the juice of one lemon and bring the mixture to a paste like quality in the blender.

3. Add the saffron to a pot of boiling water and let it sit.

4. Heat the corn oil and sunflower seed oil in a pan. Then add the chicken to fry.

5. With the help of a strainer, remove the chicken pieces from the pan and leave them on a plate.

6. Cut the remaining two onions into large slices and saute them in the remaining oil until soft.

7. Add them cumin, dried ground cilantro, ground turmeric, and jalapeno and saute for another 2-3 minutes. Add the chicken to this mixture.

8. Add hot chicken broth to the mixture and let it boil for 2-3 minutes.

9. Add the paste you prepared in the blender to this mixture.

10. Cook for about 10 minutes on low heat, occasionally stirring the mixture with a wooden spoon.

11. Add the saffron along with the water it was boiled in.

12. Cook for another 20 minutes, until the chicken becomes tender.

13. Add salt, pepper, and yoghurt (the sauce should have taken on a dark hue by now, if not, increase the heat and let the water evaporate).

14. When the chicken is cooked decrease the heat and add the cream.

15. Add the juice of the remaining lemon and turn off the heat.

16. Garnish with fresh cilantro and serve.

Ulus29: While the restaurant of Ulus29 is a distracting venture in terms of trying to concentrate on the person sitting across from you, when Istanbul’s most attractive are all around, the lounge is a worthy alternative. An upscale feel is accompanied by the lights of the Bosphorus bridge that change color outside the open windows of the glass chandelier festooned space inside. Allow another well made drink to lubricate that conversation you are having, and maybe on the balcony overlooking the water, the combination of everything good will make you want to say a little more than you intended. A. Adnan Saygun Caddesi Ulus Parkı İçi; P: (0212) 358 29 29

X Restaurant and Bar: When you take the elevator up from the Istanbul Foundation for Culture and Arts (IKSV) building, a dance of mirrors outside the elevator glass weaves in and out making you wonder where it is you’re going to exactly. Yet with the opening of doors, an almost hidden venue is revealed, where the lights are low to allow Istanbul’s night to enter and reflect off the alcohol bottles awaiting to be handled and tipped into glasses. While also offering a dinner menu, the later hours at X Restaurant and Bar continue with a relaxing atmosphere that allow couples to fold their legs into one another and find shelter upon the swivel chairs by the bar. The balcony is also a step away with a large space to enjoy a liberating view, a cigarette, or the increasing temperatures of an oncoming spring. IKVS Deniz Palas Sadi Konuralp Caddesi No: 5; P: (0212) 334 08 45

Mikla: If you haven’t eaten dinner at Mikla yet, you should, but if you take a right from the entrance and continue to walk you will once again find yourself in a bar and beautiful view symposium, where soft lounge music not only allows but beckons conversation. Walk out to the balcony where, above the rooftops of residences, the rest of the city and its people traverse vociferously, while the water glides by undisturbed. The Marmara Pera, Meşrutiyet Caddesi 167/185; P: (0212) 293 56 56

Leb-i Derya: The outside of Leb-i Derya looks like the entrance to another apartment building unevenly placed on the cobblestone streets near Tünel. Yet once you make it up the winding stairs, the restaurant and its bar arrive like a relief with a mural of Istanbul at night in the background of chattering tables and the full bar. The feel of walking into someone’s fantastic rooftop loft will continue by the bar, where you can begin or end the evening, sipping your drink and stealing glances, between words spoken, at Istanbul’s historical sights illuminated for recognition. Kumbaracı Yokuşu No. 57/6; P: (0212) 293 49 89

Musafir Indian Restaurant: The son of an Indian father and a Pakistani mother, İram Rana is an Indian-cuisine aficionado with such great Turkish language skills that you could easily mistake him for a native. He is the owner of Musafir, one of Istanbul’s best Indian restaurants located right by Taksim Square. The menu at this casual eatery includes all-time favorite Indian dishes, like samosas, raitas, chicken tikka, butter chicken, lamb rogan josh, and more. They also have nearly 10 varieties of bread to satisfy all your naan cravings. Keep in mind that Musafir gets quite full for dinner, so plan ahead and make reservations before going. Recep Paşa Caddesi No. 7 C Talimhane, Taksim; P: (0212) 235 27 41

Taj Mahal:Located by the stairs that connect Tünel to Şişhane, Taj Mahal is one of Istanbul’s few Indian restaurants with a great location and good food. Prepared by the Pakistani chef Zia Mehmood, you’ll find all your favorite Indian dishes here, from the samosa to the pakora from the tikka masala to tarka dhal. The menu offers a wide selection of vegetarian and meat dishes, such as Kashmiri lamb chops (chops boiled in milk and then fried with spices), crowd-pleasing dahls, curries, and rice. If you’re a meat fan, we highly recommend that you try the Lamb Korma.Nergis Sokak No. 4A, Asmalımescit; P: (0212) 293 66 00

Dubb:Looking over at an imposing view of the Haghia Sophia while eating excellent Indian food? Only possible at theDubb, the five-storied Indian restaurant that boasts a lovely terrace over the Old City and a soothing garden below. Prepared by Head Chef Vinod Kumar Chouhan and his team, Dubb’s menu specializes in Northern Indian cuisine, and includes soups and salads, curry dishes (vegetarian as well as meat and chicken), a variety of Tandoori dishes, delicious naan breads, and desserts.Incili Çavuş Sokak No. 10, Sultanahmet; P: (0212) 513 73 08

1. Insalata di Carciofi at Papermoon: Thinly shredded fresh baby artichoke served on a bed of arugula with shaved parmesan and a olive oil and lemon dressing.

2. Artichoke Cooked in Olive Oil with Fava Bean, Carrots, and Potatoes at Borsa: A classic of Turkish cuisine, this dish is the simplest and equally healthiest way to consume artichoke, while Borsa serves as the best place to do so.

3. Grilled artichoke hearts at Lucca: Grilled artichoke hearts served with shaved parmesan and a lemon and olive oil dressing.

4. Truffle Infused Raw Artichoke and Asparagus Salad at Ulus29: served with smoked beef, parmesan, egg yolk, arugula, and lemon vinaigrette.

5. Mini Shrimp with Lemon Peel on a Bed of Artichoke Spread at Lokanta Maya (served only on the dinner menu).

6. Pureed Peas with Samphire and Fresh Fava Beans served on cooked artichoke by Süprem Catoring by Vivet Rozales: you can only try this great dish by having it delivered to your house; a worthy endeavor to say the least.

7. Boiled Artichoke Vinaigrette Sauce Recipe

Make sure to also get your copy of The Guide Istanbul magazinealong with your coffee!

The bus will be visiting the following places:

1. New York City, NY

May 4th - Today Show

May 4th - New York University, Washington Square South and Laguardia Place

May 5th -'Turkish Coffee Culture Event at the Empire Room (7 - 9 PM) – To register, visit: http://www.eventbrite.com/event/3436603975

May 19th - Turkish Parade Day

2. New Haven, CT

May 9th- Yale University

3. Boston, MA

May 11^th - Harvard Square - JFK Street (10 am - 6 pm)

May 11^th - Harvard University Event (6:30 - 8:30 pm)

Gönül Paksoy is considered one of the doyennes of the Turkish fashion industry, known for her unique aesthetic and designs. However, in many ways, Paksoy is not your typical fashion designer. Apart from her clothing and jewelry designs, she has also written a number of cookbooks. What also sets Paksoy apart is her background: she holds a PhD in Chemical Engineering and was a professor at Adana’s Çukurova University for many years prior to moving to Istanbul and starting her fashion business.

When I spoke to Paksoy, I asked how she made the career leap from an academic living in Adana to an Istanbul-based fashion designer. Paksoy explains that she has been painting since she was a child and comes from an artistic family — both her brothers are artists. When deciding what to study, she chose chemistry but continued to have a strong interest in the arts. During her graduate studies, she took some art classes on the side, drawing in her free time.

When she made her move to Istanbul, she initially had the idea of working with carpets and kilims, but then quickly moved into clothing design. She decided to apply her knowledge of chemical compounds and natural dyes to the production of clothing fabrics. All of her designs utilize 100\\\% natural dyes, and mostly antique fabrics. All of her pieces are original, hand-dyed, and hand-sown, using 100\\\% silk even for the thread and lining.

When I asked Paksoy why her designs have enjoyed so much success over the years, she said she thinks it is because her look is individual and unique, with all of her pieces one-of-a-kind. In creating her own style and trademark look, Paksoy believes, it is almost as if she has created her own culture. Indeed, Paksoy’s trademark look has remained much the same since the beginning of her career. It features the signature silhouette that she started with, which she has added to over the years. Her pieces are like a mosaic, she says; you can wear a piece from the latest collection along with something that she designed 22 years ago.

Paksoy is an avid collector of archeological objects and often draws her inspiration from this collection, while the minimalism of mystics’ clothes also influences her designs. Paksoy says that her math skills are tremendously helpful in her profession, because she usually works with antique fabrics and has to cut the fabrics very carefully, as every centimeter counts.

When I asked Paksoy about the profile of the women who wear her clothes, she explained that her customers are discerning women who care about value, quality, and originality of design, and that her clothes suit women of all ages. When it comes to her designs, Paksoy says, customers are not just buying clothes, but also buying pieces of art. Indeed, many of her pieces could best be described as wearable art, with the presentation of the store also contributing to this impression. Her boutique has an art gallery-like setting, with minimalist white walls and fewer items on display than most boutiques. The clothing, jewelry, and accessories are interspersed with antique carvings.

Remarkably, the Gönül Paksoy brand has achieved success without ever having had a marketing or advertising campaign. In fact, Paksoy tells me that she never sells her clothes through a third party and does not sell them abroad. However, her reputation has still grown internationally through her many exhibits abroad as well as her cookbooks. Her exhibits and aesthetic have been particularly popular in Japan. When asked why she thinks that is, she says she believes that being Asian is what she has in common with the Japanese, and that this influences her outlook and approach to design.

Cookbooks are something that Paksoy started working on later in her career. She was never actually taught to cook by anyone, but spent many years of her childhood watching her grandmother in the kitchen. She first started baking cookies and cakes, then began inviting friends over for dinner parties. These evolved into her legendary New Year’s parties, which she holds in her store. These grew each year, eventually reaching more than 100 guests, at which point it was suggested that she write a cookbook.

When she first made the decision to write a book, she approached her kitchen from a very academic point of view in order to articulate her cooking philosophy. Looking at her main ingredients, she saw that she used mostly vegetables and fruits and very little red meat, using fish and some poultry for protein. Unlike with most Turkish dishes, she does not use tomato-based sauces or garlic, and does not fry, preferring to steam dishes. For desserts, she does not use much dough, and instead creates milk- and fruit-based desserts. After examining all of her recipes, she decided to write her first cookbook, and has published many since then.

Paksoy has also published two unusual cookbooks, one on edible beads and the other on edible flowers. She also published a book on rag dolls she created that were sold at MoMA. The dolls evolved into a social responsibility project, as she used the proceeds to build a school library in the town of Ceyhan, where she was born. Paksoy believes that social responsibility and hard work are very important, and wants to give this message to young people through her books and her projects. Clearly, Paksoy is a designer with a different outlook on life than most, which comes across in her designs and her clothes.Atiye Sokak No. 6/A, Teşvikiye; P: (0212) 261 90 81

First of all, congratulations on the award, which certainly serves as recognition of the hard work that you and your team have put in strengthening the bonds between Colombia and Turkey and integrating the Colombian community to the Turkish way of life. For how long have you held the position of Colombian Honorary Consul in Istanbul?

I’ve been the HonoraryConsul since 2008. My job consists of helping Colombian residents in Turkey, and representing and promoting the image of Colombia in Turkey.

And how long you have been living in Istanbul?

I came to Istanbul 33 years ago because I married a Turkish man.

So you’ve witnessed the major changes that Istanbul has seen?

Certainly. Istanbul has completely transformed in the past thirty years. Of course, when I first came here it was still a big city, but today it is so modern and cosmopolitan that it doesn’t resemble the city it was before. For example, I was pregnant when I got here in 1979. There were no supermarkets back then, so I asked somebody to help me at the local store to find some diapers. The stands of the stores were absolutely empty and I couldn’t find a disposable diaper! That is one example of what life was like back then. Now, the economic development is palpable in every street and every neighborhood of Istanbul. There weren’t even credit cards back then. Today, everybody has a credit card, or two, or three. But putting aside conveniences, people have always been the same here: incredibly nice and friendly.

How would you describe the current relations between Colombia and Turkey?

The relationship between the two countries is relatively new but they are excellent. Even though, some years ago Colombia and Turkey seemed worlds apart, in the last ten years, with the economic growth of both countries, commercial relations have strengthened. This has led to a series of conversations between senior trade negotiators who are currently working on a free trade agreement between the two countries. To be specific, Turkish exports to Colombia increased 133\\\\\\% in 2011 and imports from Colombia increased 175\\\\\\%. Flocks of businessmen are now flying from Colombia to work with new Turkish partners. Last month, Kadir Topbaş, the Mayor of Istanbul, went to Cartagena, Colombia where he held major tourism and business talks with representatives from the city, announcing the possibility of opening direct flights between the two countries.

That sounds exciting. There have been several cultural exchanges between Colombia and Turkey, like the Fernando Botero exhibition that was showcased in Pera Museum in 2010 with the support of the Honorary Consulate of Colombia (as well as The Spanish Embassy and Instituto Cervantes). Are there any plans to intensify the bilateral exchange?

There are currently various projects running. One of them is to get as many Colombian students come and learn about Turkey and Turkish culture through exchange programs in Turkey’s top-ranking universities. The rector of EAFIT University (one of the most important universities in Colombia) will come next month to visit some universities in Istanbul, such as Aydın University and Galatasaray University, to sign exchange agreements. In October, rectors from other Colombian universities will also come for the same reason. Also, the possibility of a Free Trade Agreement between the two countries has also created enormous business opportunities by opening both markets to a host of business people. This has resulted in an influx of Colombian businesspeople coming to Turkey.

We’ve heard that you are publishing an online magazine called Colombianotas for the Colombian residents in Turkey. How did this idea come about?

(Laughter) In reality, Colombianotasis a newsletter that works rather as an informational bulletin, which I dream of turning into a magazine one day. We wanted to integrate the Colombian community in Turkey and that’s how the project started. It has been well received and has enjoyed a positive reception by the community. (To check out Olga’s newsletter, click here.)

How many Colombians live in Turkey and in Istanbul?

There is not an exact count but the community is certainly growing in Turkey. Many people come for professional commitments. There are also some Colombo-Turkish couples as well as some students.

If you have a guest coming to Istanbul, which tourist spots do you recommend them to go?

Well, it is very hard to answer this question with all the wonderful places there are to visit in Istanbul. The museums, Topkapı Palace, Dolmabahçe Palace, the Grand Bazaar…all these places are incredible. Most people have no idea what the Grand Bazaar looks like and are overwhelmed when they see its beauty. All of Istanbul is truly magical.

Which local dishes do you recommend to your guests?

Kebab in all its varieties.

What about a restaurant or bar?

I highly recommend Mikla, Sunset, and Ulus 29 for their location, atmosphere, and food.

A good place to go shopping?

The Grand Bazaar, IstinyePark, Kanyon, and Nişantaşı, although good places for shopping can be found all around the city. I love IstinyePark because it is the one place where you can find everything from local and international food and ingredients to all the big local and international brands.

A good weekend getaway?

In the summer, I recommend spending a day at the beaches in Kilyos.

Anything you don’t like about the city?

As with every big city, the traffic here is horrible. But you learn your ways around it. As you get used to it, you know when not to take your car and rather take public transportation. For example, you know that it is impossible to go to the Grand Bazaar on Fridays as it is the day with the worst traffic.

As you walk down the stairs of Pilot and walk into the exhibition area, you are greeted by the confrontational stained-glass work that reads, “The piece might be abstract but it’s made of rubber and looks like the male organ.” An interesting story lies behind this funny statement. A few years back, Abbas sent a piece to a gallery in Pakistan, but it got stuck in customs. When she inquired about her work, this statement was written in the letter that the customs officer sent her. Inspired by this event, Abbas created this piece, her first stained-glass piece since Woman in Black (2011), the stained-glass work that she made for the 2011 Abraaj Capital Art Prize. Abbas explains that this piece tackles issues of morality, differentiating between the good and the bad, especially because stained-glass is such a religious instrument. In fact, Abbas adds, “When I saw the stained-glass windows all around Sultanahmet, I decided that I wanted to work with it.”

Possibly the most captivating series in the exhibition is Idols, featuring photographs of plasticine sculptures made from photographs of working-class people on the streets of Boston, New York, and Istanbul over the past year. A total of 22 photographs are exhibited, 6 of them of Istanbul locals. Abbas created this series like this: she took photographs of ordinary people on the street (cashiers, pharmacists, policemen, random strangers) and then made 22 tiny sculptures out of the hundreds of photos. She then took macro-photos of these tiny sculptures. For Abbas, this series is about “tiny heads and their larger-than-life projections.”

During my brief chat with Abbas, I asked her how Istanbul influences and inspires her work, and she explained that the process is quite “natural” and that she has “an ongoing relationship with the city,” which is clearly reflected in her work. For example, the Idols series became a continuing project for Abbas when she came to Istanbul and realized that she needed to create some photos of people in Istanbul (until then, Idols only included photos of people in the United States). The series will probably be extended even further during the summer when Abbas heads to Pakistan.

In the middle of the exhibition area is an imposing inflatable sculpture, called Su’ar (2011), which tackles issues of impurity, greed, and shame. Su’ar means pig in Punjabi, and the animal represents impurity and also serves as a pejorative, especially in Muslim countries. At the same time, the image of the pig represents greed and money in the West. The piece, which features two humongous piggy banks making love, aims to bring together the different interpretations of this animal in one piece. Abbas’s paper sculptures, entitled Objects (2012), again deal with daily life. The hand-made sculptures, which are in the form of a disposable coffee cup, a can, a water bottle, coins, and an ashtray (with ashes and cigarettes in it), carry crescent motifs (that create beautiful shadows) and read “Please do not step,” which has sort of become Abbas’s motto or signature.

Paradise Bath(2009) features 9 photographs of Abbas bathing a Caucasian woman in an old Ottoman hamam in Thessaloniki, Greece built in 1444 known as Bey Hamam or Paradise Bath. The ritual makes reference to the oriental idea of a colored woman bathing a white woman, and highlights the issues of race and power. This was a performance that Abbas had to really study for, because she spent some time in Istanbul learning the tricks of the trade, and took the hamam equipment from Istanbul to Thessaloniki for her performance.

Abbas has been coming to Istanbul regularly since her first time here in 2007. On the one hand, she finds the city to be more familiar and comfortable. On the other hand, the Turkish audience becomes more familiar with her and her work. “Possibly due to this,” Abbas says, “Istanbul is the place where I get the most responses. The reason behind this I’m aware and unaware at the same time, but I get the best responses from the Istanbul audience, I’m overwhelmed with it.”

Swissôtel The Bosphorus Istanbul: Head to Swissôtel on Sunday, 8 April for a family Easter brunch at Cafe Swiss between 12pm – 3pm. There’ll be a rich brunch menu prepared by Swissôtel’s Executive Chef Philippe Bischoff including but not limited to cheese and deli meat varieties as well as Peking Duck and seafood selections. Kids will have a chance to get festive with several games, including the traditional egg hunt with chocolate bunny prizes in stow. Keep in mind that Swiss Gourmet is selling colorful eggs, bunny-shaped chocolates, and other Easter-concept delicacies until April 8^th. The event costs 155TL including VAT with a 50\\% discount for 4-12 year olds and free entrance for 0-3 year olds.

Phone Number: (0212) 326 11 00-22
Address: Bayıldım Caddesi No.2

Çırağan Palace Kempinski: Celebrations will take place April 8^th and 15^th with two Sunday brunch sessions and evening tea services. French chef and recipient of a Michelin star Olivier Chaleil will prepare an unforgettable brunch including traditional Easter breads and chocolates and a brunch buffet with 300 fresh and seasonal items. The offerings will be of grand proportions ranging from Asian and Arab buffets to dessert, handmade bread and pastry, meat and fish corners, and much more. Activities for children will also be included with colorful balloons and games with the Easter Bunny, who will help kids uncover hidden chocolate eggs in the Palace’s garden. There will also be an egg decoration contest with the top 3 decorations receiving surprise gifts. The event is 155TL per person with a 50\\% discount for children between the ages of 6-12 years and free for 0-5 year olds.

Phone Number: (0212) 326 46 46
Address: Çırağan Caddesi No. 32

Mövenpick Hotel: AzzuR Restaurant will celebrate Easter with a special brunch favorites prepared by Italian Executive Chef Giovanni Terracciano on Sunday April 8, 2012 from noon to 3pm. The event will also be fun for children who will have the chance to take part in a traditional Easter Egg Hunt, where the first three winners will receive handmade gourmet chocolate eggs. Children will also discover how to make chocolates and decorate Easter eggs at the chocolate making course as well as a clown show. Brunch is 88 TL per person, including VAT, and children up to six years old eat free, while kids 7-12 receive a 50\\% discount.

Phone Number: (0212) 319 29 29
Address: Emniyet Evleri Mahallesi Akarsu Caddesi No. 2

The Four Seasons Hotels: A special Easter buffet will take place on April 8^th with daffodils and tulips decorating the atmosphere at Four Seasons in Sultanahment and Bosphorus. Children are also welcome with face painting, balloon animations, chocolate bunnies and colored eggs. The brunch at Four Seasons Hotel Bosphorus will feature delicacies prepared by Executive Chef, Mehmet Gok ranging from Italian antipasti, Easter, breakfast selections, as well as Turkish dishes such as “döner”. For dessert, guests will find a dessert buffet and a selection of fresh smoothies. The price will be150 TL per person inclusive VAT with a 50\\% discount for children between the age of 6-12. Four Seasons Hotel Sultanahmet will offer a buffet-style brunch featuring dishes ranging from sushi to Italian antipasti, seafood, barbeque as well as a variety of Turkish breakfast and mezze alternatives prepared by Executive Chef Savaş Aydemir. The price will be 125 TL per person inclusive VAT with a 50\\% discount for children between the age of 6-12.

Bosphorus

Phone Number: (0212) 381 40 00
Address: Çırağan Caddesi No. 28

Richmond Hotel: Guests will take delight in the sight of the lake mixed with the smells of the pine forest that surround Richmond Hotel’s Wellness Spa Nua in Sapancawhere two Easter day brunch events will take place April 8^th and 15^th. After a satisfactory meal, guests are invited to indulge in the services of the Spa. The brunch will cost 60TL per person not including VAT.

Phone Number: (0264) 582 2100
Address: Vakıf Cad. Sahilyolu Sapanca

Pera Palace Hotel: The French Patisserie de Pera will offer traditional Easter chocolates as well as pastries to sweeten up the holiday for its guests. Three special accommodation packages are also apart of the deal as follows:

Deluxe Pera Package: Deluxe room with a Pera area view for three nights including a two person breakfast will be €645 plus VAT.

Deluxe Haliç Package: Deluxe rooms with a Golden Horn view for three nights including a two person breakfast will be €735 plus VAT

Grand Pera Studio Package: Studio room with a Pera area view for three nights including a two person breakfast will be €870 plus VAT

Hemingway Package: The Ernet Hemingway Suite for three nights including a two person breakfast will be €990 plus \\%8 VAT.

Phone Number: (0212) 377 40 00
Address: Meşrutiyet Caddesi No. 52

While Istanbul’s culinary scene has developed in leaps and bounds over recent years, the opening of a new ethnic restaurant is still considerable cause for excitement, with Istanbul residents always keen for new cuisine from other cultures. So when I heard that the reopened Divan Hotel in Elmadağ would include a Japanese restaurant with an authentic menu, my interest was piqued, and I was certainly not disappointed.

Entering the restaurant, you immediately notice the calm and minimal atmosphere created by traditional décor in tones of cream and grey, with colorful accents. There is usually soft reed music playing, which adds to the traditional atmosphere. The service at Maromi is excellent, with the wait staff all very attentive and welltrained, and able to properly answer any questions you may have about the menu, and are also helpful in terms of offering substitutions. As you inspect the menu, you will be given refreshing hot towels scented with jasmine, which makes for a lovely start to your meal.

The head chef here is the Japanese classically trained Kenji Kume, who previously worked with Divan at their Hai!Sushi restaurant, while one of the sous chefs has worked at Nobu in New York. The Maromi menu consists of traditional Japanese dishes rather than the American-style fusion dishes many of us are familiar with. There is a selection of hot and cold appetizers, as well as soups and tempura dishes. For main courses, there are a limited number of meat dishes, as well as a sushi menu, bento boxes, and three different traditional multi-course kaiseki tasting menus available.

I started my meal with a bowl of miso soup, a simple dish that is generally a good test of a restaurant’s kitchen. Maromi’s miso was delicious and flavorful, with lots of layers of subtle flavors, thanks to the tasty dashi stock, and just the right amount of seaweed and tofu. Next we shared a favorite of mine, agedashi tofu, which is deep-fried tofu served in a sauce. For this dish, squares of tofu are thinly battered and deep fried, then served in a dashi (fish stock) broth and topped with grated daikon radish, thinly sliced green onion, and bonito flakes. The agedashi tofu was served with a small tea candle under the dish to keep it warm, and the flavors were balanced perfectly – the batter had just the right level of stretchiness, while the broth was rich and tasty.

As in traditional Japanese restaurants, a great deal of attention is paid to the presentation of the dishes, which are all served on beautiful plates and arranged just so. For my main meal, I selected one of the bento box meals, which offered a variety of small dishes. These included tempura vegetables and prawns, and a hearty tuna croquette served with a nice sauce. Another hot item was a fried salmon croquette with boiled egg and root vegetables, served in a clear broth. There was also a pickled cabbage side dish which I expected to be a bit like Korean kimchi, but in fact the flavors were much softer and sweeter, making this great for cleansing your palette between dishes.

While all the small hot dishes were enjoyable, the highlight was certainly the sushi and maki, which was very fresh and tender, with great, subtle flavors. My companion had several maki rolls, which were all equally tasty. One with barbequed eel and cucumbers was creamy and literally melted in the mouth, while the pickled vegetables and salmon skin rolls also packed a big flavor punch.

To end our meal, we had real green-tea ice cream served with a side sauce of red bean paste. For those who are not familiar with Japanese desserts this may sound a bit odd, but trust me — it is really delicious. Maromi’s version had just the right texture, and the slight graininess that you taste when it is made with real green tea.

Maromi offers an excellent dining experience, with high-quality food in a low-key and pleasant atmosphere. It is a wonderful addition to Istanbul’s culinary scene, and well worth repeated visits.Divan Hotel, Askerocağı Caddesi No.1 Şişli, Elmadağ; P: (0212) 315 55 00

Whatever the answers to those vital questions may be, this year will be the time to simmer in past memories, with Istanbul concerts taking place in July and September.

Guns N’Roses have been confirmed to perform July 6^th but the details are still under wraps so keep up with our Agenda to be informed of the updates.

Chris de Burgh, most famous for his hit “Lady in Red,” will be performing July 10^th at Küçükçiftlik Park.

Megadeth will be on stage July 19^th at Küçükçiftlik Park with front row standing tickets already sold out.

The Red Hot Chili Peppers will be performing September 8^th at Santral Istanbul. Tickets are unavailable at the moment, but check up in our Agenda for updated information.

The Retro Jets, a Turkish rock ensemble composed of three young musicians, started the night enthusiastically, to a comic degree, with a set reminiscent of the original punk rock sound of The Stooges and The New York Dolls. At times the sound began to slide into White Stripes and Arctic Monkeys territory, yet what was truly monumental was the energy exuded onstage that gave the crowd no other option but to dance, increasing the mass energy for the main act: the Kill It Kid.

The band came on stage with raw power and presence playing songs from both their albums Kill it Kid and Feet Fall Heavy. Using tracks from famous blues artists and legendary activist Alan Lomax, they managed to bring the feeling of the Mississippi Delta to Istanbul. The powerful vocals of both Christopher Turpin and Stephanie Ward broke the pretension that has characterized much of the Gospel and Blues revival in the UK, putting them center stage with the tremor of Marc Jones beating on the drums and the discreet but assertive Dom Kozubik on the bass.

After presenting new songs that got the crowd clapping and dancing along, technical difficulties rendered the show unfulfilled as some of the band’s equipment simply stopped working. Anxiously waiting for an encore the crowd clapped and screamed as the band left, worried the concert was going to end on a bad note. But the power of blues and its improvisational capacity came forward and the band returned with just a guitar and the voices of both singers. With a good sense of humor they performed an encore that would close the night's performance in a very personal and emotional fashion for it was the band's last concert from their European tour.

As such, the upcoming Masters of Wine Weekend (April 7-9), to be held in the Marmara Hotel in Taksim under the coordination of Veritas, will then surely be marked as an accentuated beginning for wine enthusiasts. Seven notable wine experts will be in attendance to not only give the Turkish grape varieties their due, but also to teach the interested the intricacies and varieties of wine tasting. Participating Masters of Wine, a title given only to a selected few worldwide professionals, will be Christy Canterbury, Tim Hanni, and Sheri Morano from the US; Sarah Abbott, Tim Atkin, and Peter McCombie from England; and Ned Goodwin from Japan.

The weekend will include the official tasting and evaluation of selected Turkish wines on the mornings of both days, where participants are invited to watch, followed by lunch with the guest wine tasters. The rest of the weekend will be full of workshops ranging from the tasting and understanding of Châteauneuf-du-Pape varieties to the general techniques of tasting and enjoying wine.

Thursday night marked the arrival of the Lomography store in Istanbul with a party to commemorate the store's opening on Serdar-ı Ekrem Caddesi in Galata. Around 9pm enthusiastic crowds expanded and filled the cobblestone streets in front of the store, some arriving on motorcycles while others took a gander inside at the exhibit of photos and cameras hanging on the walls.

The story of Lomo began in Vienna, Austria in the early 1990s, when two students found a Lomo Kompakt Automat, a compact camera introduced in 1984, and found vibrant colors, deep saturation, and vignettes that framed their shots. Since then, the Lomo camera has made its way to worldwide distribution, igniting exhibitions, world congresses, parties, installations, collaborations, and events. In the meantime new products and accessories were developed as a community formed around the little camera dedicated to experimental and creative visual expression.

Lomo newcomers and experts will find what they need in the Istanbul store from the classic and simple fisheye lens cameras to the more advanced Lomo LC-A+ models. The store also boasts a lively online community on the Lomography website where events and competitions are held, and most of all where photos are shared and celebrated.

Lomography Gallery Store Istanbul; Şahkulu Mah. Serdar-ı Ekrem Cad.No: 5/B Galata/ İstanbul

The 31^st Istanbul Film Festival, hosted by the Istanbul Foundation for Culture and Arts (IKSV),is about to begin (only 2 days left). By now, you’ve probably got your tickets or you’re still in the process of picking your films (take a look at our festival piece here for some help on this).

Most festival-goers will want to make a night of their night at the movies. If you’re one of them, take a look at our suggestions for places to go for drinks and party. We highly recommend you get something to eat beforehand though (see our Restaurants Guide for the film festival).

<div class="detail_extra_cont fr" style="font-size: 12px !important;">Festival Locations

This year, the festival will be held at the following cinemas, museums and cultural centers: Atlas Cinema, AFM Fitaş, Beyoğlu Cinema, Citylife, Rexx Cinema in Kadıköy, the Pera Museum, Salon IKSV, and Akbank Sanat.</div>

Around İstiklal

Beer and funky house at Balkon:Located right by Küçük Otto, Balkon is a cozy bar with a nice atmosphere to have a chat over a bottle of beer with funky house and the oldies playing in the background. Asmalımescit Mahallesi Şehbender Sokak No.5 K.6, Tünel; P: (0212) 293 20 52

Cocktails at Leb-i Derya:An upscale venue that attracts Istanbulites as well as tourists, Leb-i Derya is a romantic spot that offers fantastic views of the Golden Horn and parts of the Old City. We highly suggest the tiramisu martini for those with a sweet tooth. Kumbaracı Yokuşu No. 57/6, Tünel; P: (0212) 293 49 89

Shots or cocktails at Parantez:Parantez is a tiny bar located on Jurnal Sokak across from Babylon Lounge. It’s a casual spot frequented by locals as well as tourists. If you want a glass of something delicious, go for the Orman Cini, made with rum, fresh green apple juice, and cinnamon. The rim of the glass is lined with cinnamon and it is served with a slice of green apple. You can get it as a cocktail or a shot, depending on how fast you want to get tipsy. Asmalımescit Mahallesi Sofyalı Jurnal Sokak No. 1, Asmalımescit; P: (0212) 245 75 13

Deep house and minimal techno at Küçük Otto:A legendary Istanbul bar flocked by its frequenters and tourists and a local favorite for late night dancing in Asmalımescit, Küçük Otto is a small bar that tends to get quite crowded. Here, we suggest you indulge in a few shots: the Gelincik Shot made with corn poppy sauce, lime, and vodka; Sakız Shot made with mastic, milk, and vodka; and Kiss my Otto, made with cinnamon, orange juice, lime, and vodka.

Shots at Tektekçi:Istanbul’s first shot bar, Tektekçi is one of the most popular venues in Beyoğlu these days. This small bar gets quite crowded, overflowing with fearless dancers who can see the bottom of several shot glasses in less than minutes. Here, you’ll find a wide variety of interesting shot combinations, from the sweet to the sour, to the spicy to the sweet-and-sour. (For a full review of Tektekçi, click here.) Tomtom Mahallesi Akarsu Sokak No.2/1, Beyoğlu; P: (0533) 774 74 60

Around Pera/Şişhane

Beer at North Shield Pub:The North Shield Pub serves as a great spot for those who want a true pub feel. Here, you’ll find a variety of imported beer, such as Leffe and Germany’s Historical Brewery Tavern Schlenkerl’s Aecht Schlenkerla Eiche (a smoky beer that tastes just like bacon). Palazzo Donizetti Hotel Entrance, Asmalı Mescit Mahallesi Meşrutiyet Caddesi No.55, Asmalımescit; P: (0212) 243 15 23

Wine or cocktails at Baylo: Baylo is a great spot in Şişhane for enjoying a glass (or bottle) of wine by the bar, or sipping a delicious green apple martini by the cozy outdoor seating area.Asmalımescit Mahallesi Meşrutiyet Caddesi No.107A,Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 243 60 18

Cocktails at Gozo:A relatively new addition to the area, Gozo is a good option for cocktails. Meşrutiyet Caddesi No.94, Şişhane; P: (0212) 251 53 14

Cocktails at Bird:Bird is one of the most popular places in Şişhane, attracting a steady crowd especially on weekends. If you’re after a good cocktail, we suggest you try the Bird Mojito. If you’re after something hardcore, try the Flatliner shot, made with tequila (reposado), sambuca (Italian liqueur), and 3 drops of Tabasco.Meşrutiyet Caddesi No. 103, Şişhane; P: (0212) 245 70 85

Around Nişantaşı

Chill out at Biber:Unwind with a glass of your favorite drink accompanied by chillout and downtempo music at Nişantaşı’s coolest neighborhood bar Biber. Abdi İpekçi Caddesi No. 36, Nişantaşı; P: (0212) 231 41 06

Beer and Turkish rock at Corridor:Located in Nişantaşı’s Milli Reasürans Çarşısı, Corridor’s cozy and laid-back atmosphere attracts a steady stream of frequenters, especially on Tuesday nights for a bottle of beer and the most popular Turkish rock pieces. Milli Reasürans Arcade No.57, Nişantaşı; P: (0212) 343 02 41

Around Kadıköy

Beer at Karga:Karga is an unpretentious bar where the grunge set of the Asian side come out to party. This local favorite offers cheap drinks, loud music, and avant-garde art on the walls. Kadife Sokak No. 16, Kadıköy; P: (0216) 449 17 25

Shots or beer at Arkaoda:A cozy bar frequented by expats, tourists, and Kadıköy locals, Arkaoda is one of the highlights of nightlife on the Asian Side. If you’re up for something strong, try the 3 Maymun shot there. This shot carries a kind of urban legend status. It was created in 1999 by the Arkaoda bartender Deniz Özüer. The ingredients are kept confidential but we know that there’ll be lots of burning in the throat. If you’re ready for what lies ahead, go for it! Kadife Sokak No. 18/A, Kadıköy; P: (0216) 418 02 77

Focusing on the modern re-design of classic Anatolian cultural staples and motifs from different civilizations, Anatoli offers a unique array of aesthetically opulent decorative objects. The modern interpretion takes the form of three collections entitled Evladiyye, Klasikler, and Devr-i Alem, which all carry their own story and design aesthetic.

Anatoli offers a wide variety of goods that range from Turkish tea sets, classic sugar bowls, glass candle holders, wine glass sets, Turkish coffee sets, backgammon boards and much more. İstinye Bayırı Cad. No: 73 Sarıyer; P: (0212) 345 55 55

This year, the festival will be held at the following cinemas, museums and cultural centers: Atlas Cinema, AFM Fitaş, Beyoğlu Cinema, Citylife, Rexx Cinema in Kadıköy, the Pera Museum, Salon IKSV, and Akbank Sanat. Last week, we wrote about the festival at length, letting you in on the best films in each cateogory of the festival. Now, here is a list of restaurants to stop by for lunch or dinner before or after savoring a delightful festival film.

Around İstiklal Caddesi

Scrumptious vegetarian food at Zencefil:Zencefil is one of Istanbul’s most established vegetarian restaurants, featuring a menu filled with many wholesome dishes including salads, quiches, and pies made with fresh, seasonal ingredients. Head here for lunch or dinner, and definitely try one of our recommended dishes that include mücver(vegetable fritter or pancakes), beans with tarragon, eggplant with goat’s cheese, and green Lasagna. For a full review of Zencefil,click here. (Note: Take the first right after the French Consulate building on İstiklal Caddesi, then take the first left. You'll see the pretty green sign for Zencefil on your right.) Kurabiye Sokak No. 8, Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 243 82 34

Circassian dishes at Fıccın:Located right across the Saint Antoine Catholic Church, Fıccın is a great lunch spot and one of the few Istanbul restaurants serving Circassian dishes. In this simple and cozy eatery, you’ll find many dishes available at most Turkish restaurants with a few Circassian specialties thrown in the mix, like çerkez tavuğu (a creamy dish made with shredded chicken, puréed walnuts, and garlic) and the Circassian version ofmantı (stuffed with either meat or potatoes). İstiklal Caddesi Kallavi Sokak, Beyoğlu; P:(0212) 293 37 86

International fare at TagCafe & Bistro:Located right next to Galeri Arter, Tag Cafe & Bistro is a small and cozy restaurant that offers weekly menues prepared with the freshest seasonal ingredients. A great spot for lunch or dinner, here you might find yourself eating chili con carne (an exquisite meat dish served with rice), tagliatelle, teriyaki chicken, classic zeytinyağlı dishes, or burritos. İstiklal Caddesi Postacılar Sokak No.1/A, Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 243 68 42

Indian at Govinda:A good option for lunch, Govinda is one of the few Indian-inspired restaurants in the city, offering a menu filled with fried food, such as the pakora (fried battered vegetables) and samosas (fried vegetable-stuffed pastries). You’ll also find un-fried meals, salads, and soups. The must-have beverage is the lassi—a fragrant yogurt and fruit concoction. K.M. Çelebi Mahallesi İpek Sokak No.15, Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 252 40 15

Burger and fries at Dükkan Burger: Dükkan Burger is a perfect spot for indulging in a classic burger and fries during lunch. Besides the classics, you’ll find a few inventive burgers but nothing too overwhelming. Their patties have intense beef flavor, are cooked to order (although they prefer serving it medium), and are served on toasted sesame buns with lettuce, tomato, and onions. It’s simple, straightforward, and they know just how to serve a good burger! The lip-smacking fries, seasoned with salt and ground black pepper, served in paper bags are oh so inviting, too! Istiklal Caddesi No.261, Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 252 91 91

Chicken wings and beer at Bi buçuk:Bi Buçuk is a local favorite for enjoying a night with a bucket of wings, a bowl of French fries, and beer. The menu does offer a variety of other equally guilty pleasures like onion rings, mozzarella sticks, and steak. Süslü Saksı Sokak No. 14-18, Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 244 70 10

Around Pera/Şişhane

Italian food at Da Vittorio:Da Vittorio is a cozy and authentic Italian restaurant located in Tünel. Candles on each table, little flowers, black and white prints on the walls create a pleasant atmosphere and makes it an ideal spot for a romantic dinner. Meşrutiyet Caddesi No.70, Ansen Suites, Tünel; P: (0212) 245 88 17

Pizza at Miss Pizza:One of the most popular pizzerias in Istanbul, Miss Pizza is a warm and cozy eatery, perfect for lunch or dinner, offering authentic Italian pizza with a variety of gourmet toppings. Recommended dishes include Pizza Crudo with smoked bacon and arugula, and the Pizza Pesto with zucchini and ricotta cheese on a pesto sauce base. Meşrutiyet Caddesi No. 86, Şişhane; P: (0212) 251 32 34

Mediterranean cuisine at Mikla:Located on the rooftop of the Marmara Pera Hotel, Mikla is a chic and sophisticated restaurant with a fantastic view of the Golden Horn. Head to Mikla for dinner, open a bottle of wine, and enjoy an excellent meal overlooking the beautiful city. The Marmara Pera, Meşrutiyet Caddesi 167/185, Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 293 56 56

Turkish and Mediterranean cuisine at Enstitü:Enstitü is the workplace and (skilled) experimentation zone of Istanbul Culinary Institute’s third-year students. Here, the menu changes daily and includes a variety of appetizers, main courses, and desserts. Some highlights of previous menus include mücver (a vegetable fritter usually prepared with zucchini) made with pumpkin; lamb stew with dried fruits, almonds, and sumac; and köfte (meatballs) with pita bread, yogurt, and tomato sauce. Meşrutiyet Caddesi No. 59, Tepebaşı; P: (0212) 251 22 14

Around Nişantaşı

Turkish food at Hünkar:Hünkar is an upscale version of a classic tradesman’s restaurant (esnaf lokantası) that is a great choice for lunch or dinner. Here, you’ll find a range of soups, mezes, olive oil dishes, meat dishes, and seasonal fish. They’ve also recently created a tasting menu that is filled with must-try dishes like grilled meatballs (with rice and grilled tomato and pepper), stewed watercress, and hünkar beğendi (smoked eggplant puree topped with lamb or beef). Mim Kemal Öke Caddesi No. 21, Nişantaşı; P: (0212) 225 46 65

International fare at Delicatessen:A hip joint at the heart of Nişantaşı, Delicatessen offers dozens of choices from steak burger to fresh fish, and most dishes come with scrumptious sides. Enjoy lunch or dinner with the trendy Nişantaşı crowd. Mim Kemal Öke Caddesi No.19/1, Nişantaşı; P: (0212) 225 06 04

Traditional Turkish food at Borsa:Located within the Lütfi Kırdar Convention Center,Borsa is an established restaurant dedicated to traditionalTurkish cuisine. Borsa has been a classic since 1927, and is an ideal spot for lunch or dinner. Lütfi Kırdar Convention Center, Gümüş Caddesi No.4, Harbiye; P: (0212) 232 42 01

Turkish and International dishes at Park Şamdan:A chic spot for lunch or dinner, Park Şamdanis an established fine-dining restaurant that serves Turkish and international dishes. Theirpaça çorbası(leg of lamb soup), risottolu dana kaburga(beef rib with risotto),keşkül(almond-based milk pudding), andkaymaklı ekmek kadayıfı(crumpets with syrup and clotted cream) come highly recommended. Mim Kemal Öke Caddesi No. 18/1, Nişantaşı; P: (0212) 225 07 10

French food at Nişantaşı Brasserie:Located on the trendiest crossroad in Nişantaşı, Nişantaşı Brasserie is the meeting point for Istanbul’s glitterati. The menu is very French, with salmon, beef carpaccio, and great summer desserts, as well as a variety of European dishes. Definitely a great spot for lunch, especially if people-watching is one of your favorite activities. Abdi İpekçi Caddesi No. 23/1, Nişantaşı; P: (0212) 343 04 43

Around Kadıköy

Eclectic dishes from the Middle East at Çiya: Çiya is a casual lunch spot that offers delicacies from Syria, Georgia, southern Iran, and all parts of Turkey. Expect to find interesting versions of favorite staple dishes, for example stuffed artichoke rather than the usual stuffed pepper, grilled loquats filled with rice and minced meat mixtures, or caramelized onions atop the classic dolma.Güneşli Bahçesi Sokak No. 43, Kadıköy; P: (0216) 330 31 90

Ottoman cuisine at Güler Osmanlı Mutfağı: Güler Osmanlı Mutfağı is a humble tradesman’s restaurant that serves as a good choice for lunch, offering selections from Ottoman cuisine. Some favorites include hünkâr beğendi (smoked eggplant puree topped with lamb or beef), beğendili köfte (meatballs served on a bed of eggplant puree), and galaçoş (lentil, onion, and yogurt dish). Make sure to try their dessert specialties - the Osmanlı Tatlısı (prepared with shredded wheat, walnuts, and yogurt) and Padişah Tatlısı (prepared with semolina halvah and cream). Hasanpaşa Kurbağalıdere No. 74/A, Kadıköy; P: (0216) 348 22 45

Ottoman cuisine at Yanyalı Fehmi Lokantası:Yanyalı Fehmi is another humble tradesman’s restaurant in Kadıköy, offering an extensive menu with over 15 types of soup, nearly 10 varieties of rice dishes, kebabs, grills, vegetarian dishes, olive oil dishes, fish, and dessert. The specialty of the house is Yanyan Köftesi –meatballs prepared with beef & lamb, eggplant, tomatoes, hazelnut, and spices. Yağlıkçı Ismail Sokak No. 1, Kadıköy; P: (0216) 336 33 33

Lunch at Aqua Restaurant:Enjoy Italian specialties while looking over the beautiful Bosphorus at Aqua Restaurant located within Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at the Bosphorus.It’s still not that warm though, so make sure you wear something warm. Four Seasons Istanbul Hotel at the Bosphorus, Çırağan Caddesi No. 28, Beşiktaş; P: (0212) 381 40 59

Serious fun at The Game for Big Kids:Head to The Game for Big Kids, the state-of-the-art digital entertainment center at the Point Hotel Barbaros. Here, you can enjoy a 3-D race simulator, football games on a giant screen, or popular games, such as Half-Life or Quake.Alternatively, live out your rock star or DJ fantasies in private music rooms. (Note: Apart from usage by the hotel guests, The Game facility can be accessed with a 3-month, 6-month, or annual membership pass, while business and corporate membership plans are also available.) Point Hotel Barbaros, Esentepe Yıldız Posta Caddesi No.29, Şişli; P: (0212) 337 30 80

Dessert at Le Fumoir:Located in the trendy Georges Hotel, Le Fumoir is the hottest spot in Galata. They have a killer mousse au chocolat that we suggest you try ASAP. While there, you might as well enjoy a glass or two at their champagne bar. (Note: Don’t forget to make reservations in advance.)Serdar-ı Ekrem Sokak No. 24, Galata; P: (0212) 244 24 23

Dinner and drinks at City Lights Restaurant & Bar:Located on Top of the Ceylan InterContinental Hotel, City Lights manages to combine a fine dining restaurant and a sophisticated bar in one elegant space. Enjoy the stunning panoramic view of the Bosphorus and a delicious meal from their refined menu filled with sophisticated dishes, such as Grouper Carpaccio with Vanilla, Organic Duck Breast served with Damson plum purree, and Lobster Back. Ceylan InterContinental Istanbul Asker Ocağı Caddesi No. 1, Taksim; P: (0212) 368 44 44

Get pampered at the Ritz-Carlton Spa:Indulge in a private Turkish bath session, de-stress with an aromatherapy massage, or get a chocolate body mask in the luxurious spa of Ritz-Carlton Istanbul. Süzer Plaza Askerocağı Caddesi No. 15, Şişli; P: (0212) 334 43 53

Enjoy the fantastic views of Istanbul from Sumahan: Whether you stay at one of the beautiful rooms of Sumahan or dine at the on-site Waterfront Terrace, we suggest you head to Sumahan to enjoy the unique views of Istanbul that this hotel offers. Kuleli Caddesi No. 51, Çengelköy; P: (0216) 422 80 00

Founded in 1881 by the eminent painter, architect, and Renaissance man Osman Hamdi Bey, this often overlooked site is actually a group of three museums: the Archaeological Museum, the Ancient Orient Museum, and the Tiled Kiosk Museum. The Museum’s holdings constitute the best collection of ancient art to be found under one roof in Turkey. To get here, take the tram to the Gülhane stop and enter the park; it’s only a short walk to the Museum. İstanbul Arkeoloji Müzeleri; Alemdar Caddesi Osman Hamdi Bey Yokuşu Sokak; (0212) 520 77 40

Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts

The Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts is situated in the 16^th century İbrahim Paşa Palace, which was commissioned by Süleyman the Magnificent. Its collection of carpets is one of the best in the world, and it features excellent examples of calligraphy and ceramics from many different Islamic cultures, in addition to ethnographic exhibits focusing on Anatolian tribespeople. The museum is located on the opposite side of the Hippodrome from the Blue Mosque, near the Sultanahmet tram stop. Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts;At Meydanı No. 46, Sultanahmet; P: (0212) 518 13 85

Istanbul Modern

Situated in a converted warehouse on the Bosphorus, this museum – which opened in 2004 – has been a catalyst for putting Turkish modern and contemporary art on the global map. The museum’s Cinema Center offers film screenings which are free with museum admission. The entry to Istanbul Modern is a short walk from the Tophane tram stop. Istanbul Modern;Meclis-i Mebusan Caddesi Antrepo No. 4, Salıpazarı; (0212) 334 73 00

Kariye Müzesi (Chora Church)

Also known as the Church of St. Savior in Chora, this church-turned-mosque-turned-museum was originally built in the 6th century, like Hagia Sophia; the building you see dates back to the 11^th century. It is considered one of the finest examples of Byzantine architecture in Istanbul, and contains many impressive mosaics and frescoes. Kariye Müzesi;Kariye Camii Sokak No. 29, Edirnekapı; P: (0212) 631 92 41

Pera Museum

With great permanent holdings and excellent temporary exhibits of both Turkish and international art, this small museum – located in the former Bristol Hotel near the Pera Palace Hotel – is one of the best private collections in the city. It also features regular film screenings, concerts, and other events throughout the year. The musem is most easily accessed from the Şişhane metro stop or from the Tünel station. Pera Müzesi; Meşrutiyet Caddesi No. 141, Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 334 99 00

Sabancı Museum

Housed in a beautiful 19^th century mansion on the Bosphorus known as the Atlı Köşk (Horse Mansion), this museum contains the Sabancı family’s collection of calligraphy and paintings in addition to temporary exhibitions by major international artists past and present. There are music concerts at the museum’s activity center, The Seed; Müzedechanga, the sister restaurant to the award-winning eatery Changa, is also here. The Sabancı Museum is best reached by bus from Taksim. Sakıp Sabancı Müzesi;Sakıp Sabancı Caddesi No. 42, Emirgan; P: (0212) 277 22 00

Sadberk Hanım Museum

Situated in a nineteenth-century yalı (waterfront mansion), Turkey’s first private museum – founded by the Koç family in 1980 – showcases more than 18,000 pieces, including a rich collection of Anatolian art, antiques, and relics; archaeological remains from the Neolithic to the Byzantine eras; rare silk and ceramic collections from Central and East Asia; and more. Buses go here regularly from Taksim. Sadberk Hanım Müzesi;Büyükdere Caddesi No. 27-29, Sarıyer; P: (0212) 242 38 13

Nakkas offers the biggest selection of traditional silk Hereke carpets that you will not find in any store, in traditional patterns as well as original yet classic designs. For collectors, they offer a wide range of antique carpets from Anatolia, Persia, and Central Asia. For buyers looking to decorate a more modern interior, Nakkas offers a very unique selection of contemporary designs.

Working with interior designers to catch the latest trends in color and style, they use those trends to design a select range of one-of-a kind carpets. Apart from fashionable patchwork carpets, they also offer carpets in ikat, suzani, and geometric patterns. Be sure not to miss the amazing sixth-century Byzantine cistern on which the store is built, a monument that has been carefully restored to serve as an exhibition space for Turkish artists.

The amount of Turkish that foreigners learn while they are in Istanbul is directly proportional to the length of and intentions during their stay. Even though Istanbul is an English-friendly city, if you are interested in immersing yourself in the real Turkish experience and live the colorful nuances of the Istanbul life, we at The Guide Istanbul highly recommend you learn some Turkish. So haydi bakalım, here’s a short guide on where and how to learn this language while in Istanbul.

Phrase Books for Short-term Visitors

Despite being spoken by more than 80 million native speakers, the majority of the population that speaks Turkish lives within the borders of Turkey. Therefore, your usage of the language is mostly dependent on the amount of time you spend in the country as you will get very few opportunities to practice it living elsewhere. So, the first thing that you have to consider before starting to learn Turkish is the amount of time you’ll spend in Turkey.

For tourists, backpackers, or businessmen spending a couple days to less than a few months in Turkey, phrase books can get quite handy. There are relatively few resources like phrase books, text books, and language-learning material for learning Turkish, possibly due to the comparatively fewer number of people who learn the language. Some phrasebooks, such as the ones by Berlitz, Just Enough, and Lonely Planet, are full of basic sentences that will help you get by in different kinds of situations that daily life in Turkey throws your way.

More serious learners who want to delve into the very interesting Turkish grammar might enjoy the Teach Yourself Turkish by David Pollard. The Rossetta Stone language-learning software is also very popular with the tech-savvy crowd. Websites like www.onlineturkish.com and www.turkishclass.com offer online courses (for a fee) and www.totally-turkish.com offers a range of resources (for free) that will allow you to gain a basic understanding of the language.

We also highly recommend asking your Turkish friends or colleagues to teach you some basic Turkish formalities that will definitively help you move around. Phrases like afiyet olsun (bon appetite), hoş geldiniz (welcome), and güle güle kullan (which is what you say to someone after a new purchase, literally meaning “use it whilst laughing”) are used ritually on specific occasions. The use of these sentences will surely charm every Turkish person you meet and enhance the level of hospitality you will receive wherever you go.

Turkish Lessons for Long-term Visitors

Exchange students, language teachers, scholars studying Turkish culture and society, foreigners married to Turks, and basically anyone planning on spending the majority of their next few years living in Turkey often look for Turkish lessons in order to gain enough conversational skills to integrate themselves into their new Turkish environment.

A number of language schools offer Turkish classes, from the intensive to the normal, from the beginner to the advanced levels. Two language schools, Dilmer and Tomer, have a reputation for being the best places to learn Turkish in a class (usually of approximately 10-15 people). These two schools have produced their own Turkish teaching material and employ some of the best teachers in town. The language departments of various universities, such as Istanbul University and Boğaziçi University, also offer good intensive Turkish courses.

Studying with a private tutor is a less social but possibly more effective way of learning the language. Though usually more expensive than classes, private tutoring offers a more flexible schedule and more focus on individual needs that sometimes classes can’t provide. There is a network of highly qualified people working as private Turkish tutors in the city. The best recommendation is to ask your friends for information about these teachers as their students are usually passed through word of mouth and they don’t always publicize their services. An option to find a Turkish language teacher is to look on Craigslist where teachers usually post their offers.

All of the Above for Serious Students

If you really want to master the language, we recommend a combination of all previously mentioned learning opportunities plus some other options that could supplement your learning (as well as your social life). Language exchanges are becoming quite popular among young people eager to practice their conversational skills and writing skills in foreign languages. There are different clubs in language institutes, such as Goethe, Cervantes, and French Cultural Center. Through the networks of these institutes, you can find someone eager to practice their English with you as you get to practice your Turkish with them. Many young foreigners also participate in meetings and parties that these institutes arrange every now and then where they meet up with young Turkish people in a café or bar to practice languages. Also, reading in Turkish highly improves your vocabulary skills. You can follow the news in Turkish newspapers and get books with different degrees of difficulty. Listening to Turkish music or following the latest soap opera on TV will definitively give you another highly entertaining way to practice the language.

Idioms are probably the most beautiful and colorful characteristic of the Turkish language. There is an idiom for probably every occasion that will fully capture the idiosyncrasies of life in Turkey. A Turkish idiom about the best way to learn another language goes “Dil dile değmeden dil öğrenilmez,” which translates into something like “you can’t learn another language without kissing someone that speaks that language.” And though we at The Guide don’t take this advice literally, we definitively recommend that the best way to learn a language is by making good friendships with people you can practice Turkish. We promise that as you learn Turkish you will see Turkey and its people with a whole new perspective.

Tips

- Phrase books are good up to a point. Your Turkish will soon get stuck if you don’t learn some grammar basics.

- Know yourself and use a combination of methods to suit your own personal preferences and needs. Some people like reading more than going to courses. Others prefer focusing on their speaking rather than their writing. Do whatever works for you.

- Avoid other foreigners, or at least be very disciplined about how much time you spend with them. It is easy to avoid speaking Turkish by only hanging out with people who speak English or another language you might speak. If you really want to learn Turkish, you have to immerse yourself in it.

- Travel eastwards. As you leave Istanbul you will meet fewer people who speak English and you will be forced to speak Turkish. As you travel around, you can also learn about all the different dialects.

- Don’t be shy. Turkish people love to hear a foreigner speak their language and, though you will make mistakes, they will always help you and embolden you to keep on speaking.

Why is the exhibition called Kemal’s Dream?

I don’t come up with names for my exhibits from the beginning. I create a framework where I have questions and I find answers through my work. When I was traveling around Turkey, I started seeing more of these tattoos of Mustafa Kemal. I understand tattoos as being anti-establishment. They come from pirates and from people who are in jail and as such there is a certain culture attached to tattoos. But for a lot of people in Turkey tattoos are pro-republic. This made me question whether the founder of the republic foresaw that he would end up to be a symbol like this and whether Turkey became what he had expected or wanted it to be.

What is the theme of the exhibition?

One of the most important things in the exhibition is the interaction between tradition and modern society. But there are so many different elements within: there are religious parts, ethnic parts, parts about sexuality. But they are all very understated, because I think that in media and in photography everything is about shouting nowadays. Instead of this blatant imagery, I want people to become interested again in looking at very simple day to day things and then say “I really didn’t look at it that way.”

I also deal with youth a lot in this exhibition. Why? Because Turkey is very young and they represent the future of this country. So how the young people are dealing with their ancestors, history, and political situation, not only locally but within this region, is very important.

What did you want the viewer to take with them after seeing the exhibition?

I wanted people to recognize certain things, but I also wanted them to recognize new things. I wanted people to relate to a jump roping girl wearing a headscarf, because they understand “jump rope,” and understand the notion of that playfulness, but they have never seen an image of a girl with a headscarf jumping rope.

Now why is that? Because those two things are not connected. Viewers understand this language because it is composed of the same symbols and words that they have used before. But my work presents it in a different combination and because of this, things start relating to each other in a different and new way. For somebody outside of Turkey, I would hope that the exhibition would put their pre-conceived notions to the test because of these new and different combinations.

When Turkish people go to this exhibition I see them walking around and smiling because they recognize their own culture. I see that there is something clicking, but then I also see that there is something else happening within their minds. When they leave the gallery, my hope is that they have something newly added to the perspective of their own culture.

You traveled a lot around Turkey, and the pieces from the exhibit were taken in cities such as Zonguldak, Tekirdağ, İzmir, and Edirne. How is Istanbul different from the rest of the country?

Istanbul is a hub. There is a reason why Istanbul used to be the center of the Silk Road and why this city was built on this specific position, which has had significant historical impacts. But Turkey has been in a bit of a slumber, and I think right now this is changing because people are again coming to the city, not only from within Turkey but also from around the world. People are coming to the city and are enjoying the history and the mix match of all these different cultures within.

Now, when you compare Istanbul to the rest of Turkey, it’s as if the industrial revolution just finished out there, meaning that people have just recently begun to leave their villages and are moving to big cities. This is something that has already happened in all Western countries. This is very significant because now there are more people in cities than in rural areas and this is causing a very big cultural shift. So, you can see that for people who have just moved from their villages to the city everything is new.

What do you like most about the people you met during your travels?

I love the honesty of the people in the rest of Turkey, I love to connect to a lot of people, and it’s easy because people are so outgoing. I’m not a short guy, you can see me coming through the village, it’s not very easy for me to hide, but it’s very easy for me to be in contact with the people there.

Ahmet Polat’s Istanbul:

Favorite thing about Istanbul: Istanbul is like New York, like London, like Paris, but there’s also something different about this place where there’s a mixture of people coming, passing, or staying which makes it so interesting.

Favorite neighborhood:Fatih, Balat, Eyüp, and pretty much anywhere along the Golden Horn. I enjoy taking a walk from Balat all the way to Eyüp to experience the Greek Orthodox, Jewish, Christian, Catholic, Islamic periods in one stretch.

Favorite place to hang out with friends: Asmalı Mescit
Favorite Gallery: Galeri NON
FavoriteMuseum: Sakıp Sabancı Museum
Favorite bar: Şehir Meyhane(popular hangout of artists)
Lunch:Kantin in Nişantaşı
Who are your favorite up and coming Turkish artists: I love the performance group Hazavuzu

To get more information about the artist and the exhibition, visit Ahmet Polat's website

DJ Martin Dawson has been rising in fame since the release of his first solo album in 2009 and his work with such important labels as Crosstown Rebels, Get Physical, and 2020vision. Dawson, whose album was nominated as best of the year by DJMag, not only produces music but also enjoys performing on his own and has participated in festivals all over the world. Now the DJ, who has won the support of such renowned DJs as Laurent Garnier and Tiefschwarz, will spin away for the Istanbul crowd.

When: March 24, 11pm

Where: Indigo, Tomtom Mahallesi Akarsu Sokak, Galatasaray; P: (0212) 244 85 67

How much: From Biletix: 28.50 TL, 23.50 TL (student)

Burn Dubstep Series: Hatcha featuring MC Crazy D

DJ Hatch, a British DJ who has been a pioneer in introducing sets cut to 10”, and who has collaborated with other South London producers like Benga and Skream, will be playing at Babylon as part of the Burn Dubstep Series. From the streets of South London, MC Crazy D, the “Dread Poet of Dubstep,” will accompany DJ Hatcha in his performance.

There will be a warmup by two bassheads from Istanbul, MC Chellyfish and Nk6, who together have been pushing the Istanbul Dubstep scene with their Re-Spectralize events.

When: March 24, 11:30pm

Where: Babylon, Şehbender Sokak No.3, Asmalımescit; P: (0212) 292 73 68

How much: From the venue: 35 TL; 25 TL (students). From Biletix: 39 TL

Jonny Rock

All the way from Britain is the old school DJ Jonny Rock who will spin the best of soul, funk, disco and house together to shake up the dance floor and bring the boogie back to town!

When: March 24, 11:45pm

Where: MiniMüzikhol, Sıraselviler Caddesi Soğancı Sokak No:7 D:1, Cihangir

DearHead

The female DJ duo composed of Bengi Ünsal and Evrim Tüfekçioğlu will be playing at Küçük Otto tonight. Based in Istanbul and Berlin since 2009, Ünsal and Tüfekçioğlu have played at numerous clubs, bars and festivals, displaying their talent with mixes and original tracks of chill deep house and good danceable electro. A touch of sophistication gives their performances that extra something that makes them worth checking out.

When: March 28, 11pm

Where: Küçük Otto, Asmalımescit Mahallesi Şehbender Sokak No. 5/1, Asmalımescit; P: (0212) 292 70 15

How much: Free

Booka Shade DJ Set

With four albums released and a presence in the international club scene, the German House duo Booka Shade will bring their fresh genre of techno mixed with vocal and synth sounds to Istanbul. Get ready to dance all night.

When: March 30, 10pm

Where: Otto Santral, Santralistanbul, Eski Silahtarağa Elektrik Santrali Kazım Karabekir Caddesi No. 1, Eyüp; P:(0212) 427 18 89

How much:FromBiletix: 49 TL

Alexis Taylor “Hot Chip” & Justus Köhncke

Alexis Taylor, one half of the successful indie / electronic duo Hot Chip, has teamed up with German disco / house producer and DJ Justus Köhncke for a brand-new live project. Their first single, “Sorry,” was featured on the album Kitsuné Maison Compilation 10: The Firework’s Issue.

Tonight, Taylor will perform on vocals and synthesizer, with Köhncke performing a great DJ set. The night will begin at 10:30 with a warmup by Mr. Sur, followed by DearHead at 11:30; Taylor and Köhncke will come on stage at 12:30, with DearHead hosting the after party.

When: March 31, 10:30pm

Where: Ghetto, Kamer Hatun Caddesi No.10, Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 251 75 01

How much: From the venue: 35 TL; 30 TL (students); From Biletix: 39.50 TL; 34.50 TL (students)

Erol Alkan

Burn Energy drink’s Electronica Days continue with no one other than the London based lord of electro music, master of the decks; Erol Alkan.

Erol Alkan started playing gigs at the tender young age of 12, invented and re-invented so many styles and genres, influencing many of the DJ’s we have come to love today. In his early twenties he founded Trash night in London, pioneered mash-ups and made the alternative club culture just as well-respected as dance club culture. After a decade of an ever-growing phenomenon, the London Trash nights ended, but Erol’s sizzling beats and bass lines continue to conquer souls around the world and tonight it’s time for the Istanbulites to give in and surrender to his mesmerizing DJ sets.

When: March 31, 11pm

Where: Indigo, Tomtom Mahallesi Akarsu Sokak, Galatasaray; P: (0212) 244 85 67

How much: From Biletix: 45 TL

Located on a downward sloping street behind the opulent Galatasaray High School in Beyoğlu, Münferit rises out of the unevenly cobblestoned street with a fully gray art-deco-like demeanor. As much as the exterior is reminiscient of an old locomotive or Fritz Lang’s Metropolis, the interior is New York’s Lower East Side with flickering candles illuminating a small and cozy bar on the top floor and a romantically narrow bottom floor with white table cloths and floor to ceiling glass cabinets displaying bottles of Beylerbeyi Rakı. The temporary 30-something inhabitants that dine downstairs or sip away on cocktails upstairs either display a spectrum of international accents tracing their English sentences or are the kind of fur-coat-vest tight-skinny-jeans-wearing Turkish youth that one usually doesn’t see in daylight hours.

We arrived at 8pm and chose to begin the evening with the starter composed of feta cheese, porcini mushrooms, and truffle oil and after some struggle with the paper in which it was cocooned, the slightly salty yet inherently smooth cheese made a good first impression. The highlight of the evening, however, was the squid ink couscous and calamari dish, a plate of black glistening pearls of couscous with fresh bits of fried calamari lying seductively curled on top, the only disappointing aspect being that I had to share it with the friend I was dining with. The main course of lamb shank accompanied by eggplant rice was also a worthy candidate because of its tender ways with a hint of eggplant flavor in the rice. Even though we were surrounded by Rakı bottles we chose to open a wine of Graffigna Malbec, a heavy red wine, the first sip of which always seems to untangle the emotional knots acquired in daily life. The warmth of the red wine was only enhanced further by Çikolatalı Lokma(Turkish donut with chocolate), giving way to a small palatal implosion of melted dark chocolate hidden in the soft exterior of the lokma.

Closed on Sundays, the restaurant’s kitchen is open until 11:30pm, at which point the entire space turns into a bar that’s open until 2am. The sound of the subtle lounge and chillout music from dinner time increases in volume and at times turns into rock to the joy of the slightly inebriated but equally stylish crowd. Make sure to call in advance for that reservation.

Münferit, Yeni Çarşı Caddesi No. 1; P: (0212) 252 50 67

So, next time you crave this sensory-provoking, instantly-addictive sweet treat, take a look at our list of best chocolates in Istanbul.

Baylan: Founded by the Albanian immigrant Filip Lenas in 1923, Baylan is one of the oldest and most established patisseries in Istanbul. Its first branch opened in Beyoğlu in 1923 under the name Loryan, which was later changed to Baylan in 1934. In 1961, a new branch in Kadıköy was opened—and this branch is still in operation to this day. In 2010, a very modern branch opened up in Bebek and renovations began taking place in the Kadıköy store to keep the glory of the old days. Many people know of Baylan with its famous Kup Griye dessert (made with ice-cream, caramel sauce, and brittle). Baylan’s chocolate is just as legendary, especially Moncheri (chocolate with raspberry and liqueur). - Baylan chocolates come in bitter, milk, and white, and are filled with innovative flavors, including marzipan, bergamot, mastic, Baileys and cinnamon, champagne, and Amaretto.

Chocoist: Chocoist is small shop in Küçükbebek that was opened by Soley Ari. Soley is a passionate dreamer, and her wildest dreams revolve around chocolate. That’s why she opened Chocoist in 2010 as an experimental platform for creating high-quality, home-made chocolate. In this little Alpine-home-like shop, you’ll find some very tasty and unique chocolates, such as Rondo A La Turco (white chocolate with tahini, pine nuts, cranberry, almond, hazelnuts, and cinnamon), Paradiso Perduto (milk chocolate with dried sweet cherries or apricot, orange peel, lavender, allspice), Honey Bombs (brittle made with almond, hazelnut, walnut, and orange peel, covered in dark chocolate), Rondo Al Verda (white chocolate with cranberry, pistachio, biscuit, and vanilla), Pink Paradise (white chocolate with pink pepper, gojiberry, vanilla, rose petals, and liqueur), and a variety of truffles (with Bacardi, Amaretto, Whiskey, Champagne, and Cointreau). Don’t forget to buy a slice of brownie when you’re there!

Chocolate & Wine Shop at The Marmara Taksim:The Marmara Taksimhas gone through quite a change in the past year, and we’ve been more than impressed with their newly-updatedTuti Restaurant. Another welcomed addition is their Chocolate & Wine Shop (located right by the hotel’s entrance) where a distinct range of high-quality chocolate is sold. Of the chocolate-covered dragées, chocolate bars, and truffles, the most exotic of all may be the passion fruit truffle. You’ll find more adventurous flavors here, like the sesame chocolate or the mille-feuille chocolate. These make an ideal gift, especially because of their unique packaging. They come in a few different sizes, and the one that we like the most is the tall, pink box for ladies that has a purse-like handle.

Divan: Divan is one of the most established patisseries in Istanbul, known for its top-quality chocolates. Divan’s product range includes chocolates with pistachios, almonds, coffee, coconut, truffles (bitter, milk, and white chocolate), and, chocolate-covered dragées. Divan also has a special collection called Chocolat d’Origine, which consists of chocolates that are prepared from cocoa beans from Ghana, Madagascar, Equator, and Dominican Republic. In this series, you’ll find Jivara with 40\\\\\% cocoa, Equator with 66\\\\\% cacao, Dominican Republic with 64\\\\\% cacao, Ghana with 68\\\\\% cacao, and Madagascar with 64\\\\\% cacao. A winter favorite from Divan is the marron deguise (which means “chestnuts in disguise”). Made from candied chestnuts that are pureed and covered with chocolate, this sweet treat is extraordinarily luscious. Another specialty of Divan is the Arduaz (brittle covered with blue chocolate). It tastes great but also looks good on the coffee table!

Godiva:Godivais a world-famous Belgian chocolate brand, now owned by a Turkish company, is synonymous with fine, gourmet, elegant chocolate. From truffles to chocolate bars, the dark, milk, white chocolate varieties of Godiva are simply mouthwatering. And the strawberry dipped in chocolate is just another dream-infused state. So if you want to indulge yourself or pamper someone, get a box of fine Godiva chocolate.

Kahve Dünyası: Open since 2004, Kahve Dünyası is a coffee shop that also sells a range of tasty chocolates with quintessentially classic flavors. When it first opened, Kahve Dünyası made a splash among Istanbul’s chocoholics with the chocolate spoon served with their coffees (you can actually buy these in bitter or milk chocolate to enjoy at home as well). Since then, Kahve Dünyası has been a favorite shop for chocolate-covered pistachio-filled Turkish delights and chocolate-covered dragées (available in milk, bitter, or white chocolate filled with orange, coffee, pistachio, and hazelnut). Kahve Dünyası has many more chocolate varieties, including milk chocolate with almonds, bitter chocolate with raspberry, and a range of truffles. Keep in mind that they also have strawberry dipped in milk chocolate made fresh daily!

Mabel:Mabelis a chocolate boutique that has been producing a wide array of fine chocolates and candies since 1947. They have bitter, white, and milk chocolate that come in a variety of shapes, sizes, designs, and flavors. Most famous is their umbrella-shaped chocolate, which even adults have been known to buy and savor in a nostalgic spirit. This cone of milk chocolate has a small plastic hook at the end that resembles a rolled-up umbrella. The combination of old world charm and tradition coupled with a large range of genuinely good chocolate makes Mabel something like a Turkish cross between Hershey’s and Lindt.

Swiss Gourmet: Sold right by the entrance of Swissôtel The Bosphorus,Swiss Gourmet’s chocolate is luxurious, has a pronounced character, and is filled with intense flavors. They have nearly 30 different kinds, from the simple bitter and milk to the passion fruit and tequila flavored. Be warned before you buy an elegant box of these delicate chocolates because they are instantly addictive.

Vakko Chocolate: Inspired by the world’s best Swiss chocolate, Vakko chocolates (sold at Vakko chocolate boutiques) are the combination of select cocoa beans with dense flavors that are melt-in-your-mouth delicious. In their diverse range of products, you’ll find classic bitter and milk varieties as well as chocolate-covered Turkish delights, chocolate-covered dragées, and wafers. The signature of the line is a gift box shaped like a fez, so you know these will make a fantastic gift.

Even though football is played all around Turkey, Istanbul is its center because it’s home to the three biggest teams: Galatasaray (The Lions), Fenerbahçe (The Yellow Canaries) and Beşiktaş (The Eagles). These three teams have the biggest fan base and they have won most of the titles of the Turkish Super League, which has been played since 1958. The rivalry between these three teams is uncanny and, according to their fans, every match they play is a sacred battle of pride and honor.

And no match is more important or more representative of the football craze in the Turkish football calendar than the Intercontinental Derby between Fenerbahçe and Galatasaray. This match mobilizes more than half the fans in Turkey (33\\% of football fans support Galatasaray and 29\\% support Fenerbahçe), paralyzing the country for 90 minutes.

Daniel Silva from The Guide Istanbul team went to one of these legendary matches held on Saturday, 17^th March 2012 to report back on what it feels like to be at a stadium surrounded by screaming fans.

First things first: A Short History of Football in Turkey

Though invented by the British, football arrived quickly to the shores of İzmir and Istanbul during the second half of the 19^th century. British soldiers and tradesmen played football in front of Ottoman crowds. While an edict banned Muslim Turks to play it, it didn’t ban them from watching the spectacle brought by Greek, Armenian, Jewish, and British football players in the meadows of Kadıköy and Moda where the first matches took place.

At the end of the 19^th century, Muslim Turks played for the first time in a football team named the Black Stockings (formed by the British). Even though the players in that team were arrested during a match, Muslim Turks mounted pressure and were soon allowed to form their own teams.

Galatasaray, formed by the students of the Galatasaray high school in 1905, was the first Turkish team to join one of the local leagues in 1906. Fenerbahçe followed the steps of their future rivals in 1907 when a group of players from Kadıköy got together. But in fact it was Beşiktaş that was the first team to be formed by Muslim Turks in 1903 (even though they didn’t become active until around 1911).

The first derby between Galatasaray and Fenerbahçe was held in Kadıköy in 1909. This friendly beginning, however, turned into vicious competition by 1934 when Istanbul witnessed its first football riots during a Galatasaray-Fenerbahçe match, marking the beginning of the brutal rivalry between the two teams.

The Week before the Derby

Before every Intercontinental Derby, most Istanbulites will be anxiously awaiting the match and talking about it. The match will be on the cover of newspapers and magazines and the topic of incessant conversation on TV. You’ll also see ads all around town in cafes and restaurants, promoting their discounts for those who want to watch the match at their spot.

On March 17^th 2012, the two teams were meeting in Fenerbahçe’s Şükrü Şaracoğlu stadium in Kadıköy. As always, tensions were very high before the match for which the tickets sold out in merely 5 minutes. We were one of the lucky 51,000 football fans who had the chance to watch the game at the stadium and enjoy what would turn out to be an extremely exciting match.

What to Expect Before the Match

Traffic, police, hooligans, but more importantly the excitement of fans. Getting to the stadium is likely to be an odyssey regardless of where the match is held. A couple of hours before the match, we boarded the metrobus on the European side to get to the Asian side. It was not until our fourth attempt that we were finally able to climb into one of the buses that made each passenger feel like a sardine in a box.

First time derby-goers will immediately notice the intense security measures that the police take to protect football fans from hooligans. In the past three decades, hooliganism has become a problem in Turkey, with all sorts of violence including riots, fights, and arson taking place at stadiums. In fact, Fenerbahçe has been banned from having their male fans in the stadium several times for this reason.

That being said, the presence of the police doesn’t hinder the fans’ experience. Fans still enjoy beer on the streets (as alcohol is not allowed inside the stadium) accompanied by the famous Tükürük Köftesi (which literally means spit meatballs and which should be eaten at your own risk). When going to the stadium, expect to wait in line for some time (maybe half an hour) and beware that you’ll be subjected to heavy inspection by the police. Fireworks, weapons, umbrellas, cigarettes, food, and drinks are banned and are immediately confiscated by the police. In addition, anything that signals being a fan of the opposing team (Galatasaray in this case) is also forbidden inside simply for your own safety (hardcore fans will beat you up if they see you with anything that represents the opposing team – this includes wearing colors that represent them).

Once you’re inside, you’ll feel the electrifying energy of the stadium slowly fill you as you anxiously wait for the match to begin. This obviously won’t be a quiet wait – fans will be singing songs, cheering, jumping up and down, waving flags, and screaming at the top of their lungs at all times.

As the teams enter the field, you’ll sense a general anxiety rising. On Saturday night’s game, Fenerbahçe first cheered on for their superstars and then began cursing Galatasaray’s players as well as their families. If you know any Turkish, prepare to hear some of the most obscure curses during this time. Once the cursing stops, the national anthem is sang, the players shake hands, the ball is set at the center, and everything is ready for what is about to be a great match.

The Derby

The match starts and quickly Senegalese Moussa Sow from Fenerbahçe scores an amazing goal as he receives a cross pass from the left and does a half bicycle kick in midair. Six minutes later, Brazilian superstar and fan favorite Alex de Souza scores another magnificent goal for the canaries from mid-distance to the upper left corner. The crowd roars in celebration. Now, everybody is talking about repeating the 6-0 humiliation that Galatasaray suffered in 2002. The supporters from the Genç Fenerbahçeliler group (Fenerbahçe’s most hardcore fan group) scream from the top of their voices “Sarı, Lacivert, Şampiyon Fener”. In the excitement of the moment, Fenerbahçe makes a huge defensive mistake and Galatasaray takes advantage of the empty spaces left by the canaries. After a superb pass by Necati Ateş, Swedish striker Johann Elmander scores a goal that immediately silences the stadium. Long worried faces of men grabbing their faces with their hands, empty looks at the pitch, and the incessant cursing show the gloomy mood that has fallen on the tribunes as we head towards half time.

For the second half, Fenerbahçe changes its tactic and defends itself with everything they’ve got. But, as patient ants building a nest, Galatasaray slowly destroys the Fenerbahçe lines and reaches the tier in a rather confusing play by Hakan Balta. It is 2-2, and by now, Fenerbahçe fans are reaching the point of despair. Whistles and boos come from the tribune to the Fenerbahçe players as they pointlessly try to play against a much superior Galatasaray. All singing has stopped. The mostly male crowd redirects their terrible curses at the Fenerbahçe players who now seem unable to do much. After 4 minutes of extra time, the referee points at the center of the pitch signaling the end to this adrenalin-fueled match in which both teams displayed their best football and showed why they are the best teams in Turkey.

After the Match

The stadium slowly emptied as the lines for the exit were fairly long. A mixture of anger and sadness gulped in the fans’ throats as they saw their championship aspirations go down the drain. Most went directly back home by taking a bus, train, or ferry to their neighborhoods. We decided it would be easier to stick around and wait for the streets to empty. As we walked towards Kadıköy’s Barlar Caddesi to grab a beer after such an exciting match, I thought about those first Turks that saw the British mariners play on the meadows that used to cover this part of the city and fell in love with the game. After watching this great Derby (the players, the stadium, and the fans) it is now easier to understand the magic of football which has captivated audiences in Turkey, and has made it an integral part of Turkey’s culture today.

Check out Biletix for upcoming matches and to buy your tickets.

This year the festival runs between March 31^st and April 15^th at the following cinemas, museums and cultural centers: Atlas Cinema; AFM Fitaş; Beyoğlu Cinema; Citylife; Rexx Cinema in Kadıköy; the Pera Museum; Salon İKSV; and Akbank Sanat.

In addition to the film screenings (which are divided into more than 20 different categories including the various competitions), there will be an array of concerts, guest speakers, seminars and workshops, film classes, and master classes by acclaimed filmmakers like Corneliu Porumboiu, Marjane Satrapi, and Terence Davies.

A major highlight of the festival is the International and National Golden Tulip Competitions. The films in the International Competition will compete for Best Picture, while those in the National Competition will compete in a number of different categories: Best Picture, Best Director, Best Actress, Best Actor, Best Screenplay, Best Cinematography, Best Editing, Best Music, and the competition’s Special Jury Award.

COMPETITIONS

International Competition

Headed by Palme d’Or winning director Nuri Bilge Ceylan, and also features Romanian New Wave director Corneliu Porumboiu. This year’s films include Die Unsichtbare (The Invisible) by German director Christian Schwochow, La Demora (The Delay) by Uruguayan director Rodrigo Plá, and Les Neiges Du Kilimandjaro (The Snows of Kilimanjaro) by French director Robert Guédiguian.

National Competition

Presided over by well-known Turkish author Murathan Mungan; competing films include Ümit Ünal’s Nar (Pomegranate), which won the Special Jury Prize at the 2011 Altın Portakal festival, and Yeraltı (Inside), by former National Golden Tulip winner Zeki Demirkubuz.

One film from each competition will also be chosen to receive an award by a jury of the International Federation of Film Critics (FIPRESCI); in addition, there will be an audience vote for the Radikal People’s Choice Award by Radikal Newspaper.

Out of Competition

Features five Turkish films not part of the International or National competitions.

New Turkish Cinema

Features ten films by up-and-coming Turkish directors.

Documentaries

A competition of 12 different documentary films by Turkish and foreign directors.

Cinema Honorary Awards

Three films will be competing for the Cinema Honorary Awards: Halit Akçatepe’s 1976 Süt Kardeşler (The Foster Brothers), Ali Özgentürk’s 1982 At (The Horse), and Ayşen Gruda’s recent film Hacivat Karagöz Neden Öldürüldü (Killing the Shadows).

Human Rights in Cinema Competition

With a jury headed by director Juanita Wilson, films will compete for the Film Award of the Council of Europe (FACE). Competing films include Bé omid é didar (Good Bye), by Iranian filmmaker Muhammad Rasoulof, about an Iranian lawyer’s attempts to gain a visa to leave Iran. Also in the competition is Turkish director Özcan Alper’s recent film Gelecek Uzun Sürer (The Future Lasts Forever), which deals with Turkey’s Kurdish conflict via the story of a young musicologist’s trip to Diyarbakır.

OTHER CATEGORIES AND SCREENINGS

İKSV 40^th year – Cinema and Music

Commemorates İKSV’s 40^th anniversary with screenings of five musical films from the past five decades including Martin Scorsese’s 1977 film New York, New York; Alan Parker’s 1982 Pink Floyd The Wall; and Moulin Rouge!

Akbank Galas

Consists of premieres of new films by important international directors including the comedy Two Days in New York by French actress-turned-director Julie Delpy. Chicken with Plums, by graphic artist Marjane Satrapi (of Persepolis fame) and Vincent Paronnaud; Trishna, Michael Winterbottom’s updating of Hardy’s Tess of the d’Urbervilles to present-day India; plus new films by Shakespeare in Love’s John Madden (who will be present at the festival), Martin Scorsese, and more.

Challenging the Years

Presents new films by veteran directors such as Werner Herzog, who returns to the festival with Into The Abyss, a look at those living on Death Row in US prisons. Other highlights include new films by Europa Europa’s Agnieszka Holland, Russian Ark’s Alexander Sokurov, Ermanno Olmi, André Téchiné, Tony Gatlif, and Terence Davies (the last two of whom will be in Istanbul for the festival).

From the World of Festivals

Consists of recent submissions to well-known film festivals and competitions such as Cannes, the Venice Film Festival, and the Academy Awards. Many of the films are by lesser-known directors, but also include selections like L’ordre et la morale (Rebellion) by La Haine’s Matthieu Kassowitz, and Detachment, by UK director Tony Kaye (of American History X fame), starring Adrien Brody as a substitute teacher at an American high school.

Young Masters

Contains first or second features by up-and-coming young directors from all over the globe (e.g. South Africa, Brazil, Iran, Bulgaria) and includes films like Helvécio Marins Jr. and Clarissa Campolina’s Girimunho (Swirl), a portrait of life in a village in Northern Brazil, featuring non-professional actors, as well as Atmen (Breathing), the directorial debut of Austrian actor Karl Markovics, about Roman, a young parolee from a juvenile detention center and his efforts to adapt to life outside.

Documentary Time with NTV

Offers a selection of some of the best recent documentaries out there, such as Mama Africa (about South African singing legend Miriam Makeba) by Mika Kaurismäki, the elder brother of Finnish director Aki Kaurismäki; Crazy Horse, about the Parisian nightclub of the same name, the latest work by prolific American documentary filmmaker Frederick Wiseman; and Micha X. Peled’s Globalization trilogy (China Blue, Store Wars: When Wal-mart Comes to Town, and Bitter Seed), which focuses on the negative aspects of global capitalism. Peled will be present at the festival.

Mined Zone

More experimental than those in the other categories, films in Mined Zone include such works as Hors Satan (Outside Satan), by L'humanité’s Bruno Dumont, the story of a mysterious loner living in the French countryside, and a young woman who becomes his companion; and Belgian choreographer Wim Vandekeybus’s Monkey Sandwich (which ran at last year’s Venice Film Festival), a surreal “portmanteau film with a captivating tangle of stories involving the search for an unborn child, a disturbing hunting trip, a haunted LP, a screaming piglet and a river gone rogue.”

Antidepressant

Promises comic uplift with films like Canadian Ken Scott’s Starbuck, about a sperm donor who learns that he has fathered no fewer than 533 children; Egyptian-French filmmaker Namir Abdel Messeeh’s La Vierge, les Coptes et Moi (The Virgin, the Copts, and Me), about a skeptic’s investigation of sightings of the Virgin Mary among Egypt’s Coptic community; and Whit Stillman’s new film Damsels in Distress, which showed at last year’s Venice Film Festival, about the romantic misadventures of a trio of college girls.

Within the Family

Deals with family drama and intergenerational conflict, via such films as Mika Kaurismäki’s Veljekset (Brothers), inspired by Dostoevsky’s The Brothers Karamazov, about three half-brothers, Ivan, Mitja, and Torsti, who meet for the 70^th birthday of their father, a man “who they all blame for the failures in their lives”; Israeli director Joseph Cedar’s He’arat Shulayim (Footnote), nominated for a Best Foreign Language Oscar, about an elderly Talmudic scholar’s rivalries with his colleagues – including his own son; and Wymyk (Courage), by Kieslowski acolyte Greg Zglinski, a tale of courage, cowardice, and survivor guilt.

The World of Animation

A selection of some of the best recent work in animated film, including 3D films like Tales of the Night, a story of fairies, magicians, and princesses by Kirikou and the Sorceress’s Michel Ocelot, and Peter Lord and Jeff Newitt’s The Pirates! Band of Misfits, the story of a Pirate Captain’s quest to win the Pirate of the Year Award, with voiceovers by Hugh Grant and Salma Hayek.

Kids’ Menu

Offers four kids’ films from the Netherlands, as part of this year’s celebration of the 400^th anniversary of Dutch-Turkish relations. The program includes works by filmmakers Joram Lürsen, Vincent Bal, and Simone van Dusseldorp.

Midnight Madness

A series of midnight screenings of recent horror/suspense movies, such as Dominik Moll’s Le Moine (The Monk), a recent adaptation of Matthew Gregory Lewis’s 18^th century Gothic novel about Satanism (with Vincent Cassel in the title role), and Ben Wheatley’s Kill List, about a soldier turned contract killer.

What’s Happening in Greece?

A selection of five recent films from Turkey’s crisis-stricken neighbor, such as Christos Karakepelis’s documentary Proti Ili (Raw Material), focusing on the lives of immigrants in Athens who eke out a living by collecting scrap metal. Filippos Tsitos’s Adikos Kosmos (Unfair World), which won prizes for Best Director and Best Actor at last year’s San Sebastian Festival, is the story of a police interrogator’s disillusionment with societal injustice. Istanbul-born actor Antonios Kafetzopoulos, who plays the role of the policeman, Sotiris, will be present at the festival.

A Chinese Cinema Tradition: Wuxia

Features wuxia (martial arts) films by Chinese, Taiwanese, and Hong Kong directors like Zhang Yimou, Ang Lee, and Wong Kar-Wai, including Ang Lee’s Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon, which was hugely successful in the international box office.

Filming Revolution

Deals with recent political upheavals in the Arab world and elsewhere, with offerings like Andrei Zagdansky’s Orange Winter, about Ukraine’s Orange Revolution; Fragments of a Revolution, consisting of amateur videos of the 2009 election violence in Iran; and Stefano Savona’s Tahrir – Liberation Square, about the historic 2011 Egyptian Revolution. There will also be a screening of Gillo Pontecorvo’s seminal 1966 film La battaglia di Algeri (The Battle of Algiers), about Algeria’s struggle for independence.

In Memoriam

Honors the work of recently deceased filmmakers such as Theo Angelopoulos, Ken Russell, and Ömer Lütfi Akad, with screenings of movies like Angelopoulos’s O Thiasos (The Traveling Players), about an itinerant theater company in wartime Greece; Russell’s over-the-top Tchaikovsky biopic The Music Lovers; Akad’s classic 1966 film Hudutların Kanunu (The Law of the Border), starring Yılmaz Güney as the smuggler Hıdır; and more.

Special Screening: Turkish Classics Revisited

Provides audiences the chance to see a restored copy of Halit Refiğ’s 1964 film Gurbet Kuşları (Birds of Exile), the winner of the very first Altın Portakal Film Festival, which tells the story of a family’s migration from Southeastern Anatolia to Istanbul.

Other Special Screenings

Includes UK filmmaker Mark Cousins’s 15-hour documentary The Story of Film: An Odyssey, which is nothing less than a history of filmmaking from its earliest beginnings to the present day.

Atlas, İstiklal Caddesi No. 209, Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 252 85 76

AFM Fitaş, İstiklal Caddesi Fitaş Pasajı, Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 345 62 45

BeyoğluSineması, İstiklal Caddesi No:62, Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 251 32 40

Citylife, City’s Nişantaşı, Teşvikiye Caddesi No:162, Kat 6, Nişantaşı; P: (0212) 373 35 35

Rexx, Sakızgülü Sokak No. 20-22, Kadıköy; P: (0216) 4181084

Pera Müzesi, Meşrutiyet Caddesi No. 141, Tepebaşı; P: (0212) 334 99 00

Salon İKSV, Sadi Konuralp Caddesi No.5, Şişhane; P: (0212) 334 07 00

Akbank Sanat, İstiklal Caddesi No. 14-18, Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 252 35 00

What probably will strike you about this cafe to begin with are the toys and design objects spread around the cafe. There are cute pillows, toys, board games on sale here.But it’s not just about shopping at Mavra - it’s also about the food. Mavra’s menu is quite diverse and interesting, featuring Turkish, Mexican, and Italian specialties. You’ll find a long list of breakfast options that are strictly Turkish (except for the muesli) and features the classic platter varieties that include cheese, olives, honey, kaymak (Turkish clotted cream), and eggs. Those who are in for a quick bite can pick something from the sandwiches or the finger food, and those in for more of a sit-down lunch will find something that will satisfy their hunger.

On a recent visit, we had what’s called Kapalı Zarf, which literally means closed envelope, and stands for a very tasty tortilla. You can get it with vegetables or with chicken. We had the one with chicken and it did really look like a closed triangular envelope filled with spices, sautéed vegetables, melted cheddar cheese, and chicken. For those looking for something light, there is also a good salad selection – with tuna, chicken, cheese, wheat, or strictly greens.

Our second dish was from the pasta section and was called Mütevazi, which literally means humble. And it’s quite the right word to describe the dish – it’s a spaghetti dish made with tomatoes, olives, cheese, and basil. Humble, simple, and simply delicious. The mains are meat focused, featuring two kinds of meatballs, burger, a hard-to-fing pork sausage, and tacos (simply referred to as Meksikalı, which means Mexican). This is a spicy dish, so beware (especially of the Jalapenos). The tacos are filled with black beans and sautéed minced meat – you could say that it’s a classic chili con carne served in a crispy open sandwich.

We didn’t get to try dessert, but they do have a few on the menu. Whether for tea, coffee, a quick bite, or a relatively longer lunch, Mavra is a great spot to stop by when in Galata.

Mavra, Serdar-ı Ekrem Caddesi No. 31/A, Galata; P: (0212) 252 74 88

Best Places to Drink Beer in Istanbul

The North Shield Pub: The North Shield Pub has numerous locations around Istanbul (as well as Turkey) and serves as a great spot for those who really want a true pub feel. It is an obvious favorite among tourists (specifically the Sultanahmet branch) and expats (especially the Asmalımescit branch). Here, you’ll find a variety of imported craft beer (beer brewed by small independant breweries) such as Brooklyn Lager and Brooklyn Brown Ale by the famous Brooklyn Brewery. Germany’s Historical Brewery Tavern Schlenkerl’s Aecht Schlenkerla Rauchbier (a strong, dark, aromatic beer) and Aecht Schlenkerla Eiche (a smoky beer produced only during Christmas time) can be found here, as well as Germany’s wheat beer brewery Schneider Brewery’s beers. If you want a full-bodied, well-balanced beer, go for the Schneider Weisse Unser Aventinus (a kind of beer that’s been in production since 1907). If you’d rather taste what German wheat beer tasted like in the 19^th century, go for the Schneider Weisse Original. Palazzo Donizetti Hotel Entrance, Asmalı Mescit Mahallesi Meşrutiyet Caddesi No.55, Asmalımescit; P: (0212) 243 15 23. For other locations, click here.

U2 Istanbul Irish Pub: A particularly small pub that is often raved about for its cozy atmosphere by its frequenters who love going there to drink Guinness. There are over 50 beer varieties here including Brooklyn Brown Ale, Amstel, Aecht Schlenkerla Rauchbier, Schneider Weisse Original, and Beck’s. There is also an Irish band plays every night. İstiklal Caddesi, Bekar Sokak No: 21, Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 243 40 45

Taps: Taps is Turkey’s first brewpub, and is still one of the only pubs in Istanbul to make craft beer. This makes it especially attractive for tourists and expats who are big fans of microbrewery. The pub’s location is also a huge plus. Where else in the world can you sip craft beer while looking at the fantastic view of the Bosphorus?

Once you get to Taps, look through the Taps Craft Beer Guide on the back of the menu where you can read through the various kinds craft beer on offer and take your pick. There are approximately 20 kinds (of which only 4 or 5 are available depending on the season), with a range of Lager, Ale, Wheat beer, Stout, Dark, and more. In addition to Taps’s own craft beers, you’ll find a variety of bottled beer, such as Amstel, Amstel Light, Budweiser, Heineken, Corona, and Apoftel Brau. Music gets going after 10pm, with playlists of popular songs. Cevdet Paşa Caddesi No. 119, Bebek; P: (0212) 263 87 00

Bi Buçuk: Not necessarily a pub per se, but a favorite spot for drinking beer for locals. Bi Buçuk is famed for its chicken wings, and the majority of its frequenters go there simply for that: a bucket of wings, a bowl of French fries, and lots and lots of beer. Here, you’ll find a varied beer list that includes Efes and Bomonti on draft, as well as Corona, Budweiser, Heineken, and Schlenkerla. As for the music, top hits of the 90s will be playing in the background. Süslü Saksı Sokak No. 14-18, Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 244 70 10

Arkaoda: A favorite spot on the Asian Side among locals as well as tourists and expats, Arkaodacan’t really be classified as a pub but it sure is a bar where beer is consumed in large quantities. You won’t find a wide variety of beer (only Heineken, Budweiser, and Corona under imported beers) and most Efes varities. Kadife Sokak No. 18/A, Kadıköy; P: (0216) 418 02 77

Balkon: Located right by Küçük Otto, Balkon is a cozy bar with a nice atmosphere to have a chat over a beer with friends. Efes, Budweiser, Corona are what you’ll find on their humble beer menu. Asmalımescit Mahallesi Şehbender Sokak No.5 K.6, Tünel; P: (0212) 293 20 52

Ritim Bar: Ritim Bar is a meeting spot for Istanbul’s expats. You’ll hear a variety of languages spoken over many glasses of beer here. Istiklal Caddesi, Nevizade Mevkii Balık Pazarı Sahne Sokak No.20, Taksim; P: (0212) 249 02 52

Karga: Different kinds of music is played each night of the week at Karga, a favorite Asian Side spot. Here, you’ll find Tuborg and Guinness on draft, and Leffe, Carlsberg, and Corona bottled. Kadife Sokak No. 16, Kadıköy; P: (0216) 449 17 25

Belfast: A typical Irish pub located on the Asian Side, Belfast is a great spot for, well, drinking beer. They have Carlsberg, Guinness, and Tuborg on draft as well as Leffe Brown, Leffe Blonde, Amstel, Beck’s, Bomonti, Heineken, Miller, Germania, Corona, Taps Kölsch, Taps Red Ale, Efes Dark, and Efes Brown bottled. You won’t hear any Turkish songs but the best of the 80s and 90s and sometimes Irish picks. Caferağa Mahallesi, Dr. Esat Işık Caddesi, No 28/1, Kadıköy; P: (0216) 418 97 06

Sultan Pub: A classic spot for tourists looking for a home away from home on their Istanbul trip, Sultan Pub is a typical pub that offers a fantastic view of the Old City with prices to match. Divanyolu Caddesi. No: 2, Sultanahmet; P: (0212) 528 17 19

James Joyce Irish Pub: A pub that receives mixed reviews but is nonetheless flocked to by expats for a beer or two, especially when celebrating St. Patrick’s Day. Here, you’ll find hard-to-find beers like Hoegaadren (orange-flavored wheat beer on draft), Leffe Brown (bottle) and Leffe Blonde (bottle), Guinness (draft), Tuborg, and Carlsberg. They also have cider. İstiklal Caddesi Balo Sok.No:26,Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 24479 73

Turks and Beer

Everybody knows that rakı is the Turk’s drink. No songs or poems have been written in the name of beer, but Turks do consume beer as well, even if there isn't such a strong culture attached to it. Efes Pilsen is the most widespread and world-famous Turkish beer brand, which has been around since 1969 and is found pretty much wherever you go. Efes beers are all Lager, and varieties such as light and dark are available. They also have a non-alcoholic beer, which tastes quite good. Interestingly enough, Tuborg, another Turkish beer brand that produces malt beer, seems to be the brand of choice for those living on the Asian Side.

Beer Dictionary

For the beer-illiterate, here a few terms that will make your life easier and make you sound all the wiser at the pub:

On draft/tap/draught: Simply means beer that is poured into a glass from a keg.

Ale: Rich, flavorful, complex. A type of beer often described as fruity and hearty, made from top-fermenting yeast. Varieties include brown, pale, mild. Leffe is a popular example.

Lager: Crisp, clean, refreshing. This is the most widely-available beer made of bottom-fermenting yeast. Corona, Heineken, Efes, Budweiser, Carlsberg are all Lager.

Wheat beer: Light-colored, top-fermenting beer. Schneider Weisse, Hoegaadren, and Gusto are examples.

Stout: A type of dark beer made with roasted malt or barley. They are easy to spot because their color is quite dark. They have strong flavors. A very popular example is Guinness.

What to watch out for when drinking beer

If you’re after a night of heavy beer-drinking in a cheap bar, it’s highly suggested you go for bottled beer instead of draft because drinking draft carries the risk of having a glass of a very watered-down version of what you ordered. So it’s best to pay the few extra bucks and get the bottled one.

What about drinking beer at a restaurant?

Most restaurants carry Efes, and a few additional locales import varieties like Heineken, Budweiser, and Corona. But if you’re a serious beer-drinker, your best bet is one of the pubs listed above.

Beer and French Fries

It doesn’t get better than a glass of cold beer and a bowl of French fries to just relax and forget about the world. House Café in Ortaköy (overlooking over the Bosphorus) or at NumNum (especially in the Kanyon branch) are great places to do this.

Inspired by the opulence of the Ottoman Empire, but with a contemporary twist, each piece evokes a rich history and uses techniques developed in the Ottoman court. Eschewing modern cut diamonds, the Heritage collection exclusively features rose-cut diamonds, with a flat bottom and a domed faceted top, set in silver with detailed engraving and gold highlights. A favorite with Hollywood celebrities who want to make a big statement on the red carpet, Gilan’s decadent designs are truly heirloom pieces.

Click here to see a list of Gilan branches.

Auf’s kitchen is in the hands of the ladies who create the delicacies at Backyard - Zeynep Moroğlu and Esra Muslu. Here, they’ve put together a healthy lunch menu and an open-buffet right by the window that attracts the attention of passers-by on Meşrutiyet Caddesi. Zeynep’s delicious desserts adorn the counter on one side, pulling in all the I-can’t-resist-dessert kind of people, while the other side of the counter filled with Esra’s creations pulls in anyone looking for a healthy, delicious lunch.

The open-buffet, which offers a variety of dishes that changes based on the season, included green lentil salad, beetroot salad, roasted pumpkin, mücver (vegetable patty), pickles, roast beef, roasted root vegetables, as well as cupcakes, brownies, irmik helvası (semolina halvah), muffins, kabak tatlısı (pumpkin dessert), and much more mouthwatering dishes and desserts.

In addition to the open-buffet, there is also a set lunch menu, which includes sandwiches (with vegetables, smoked entrecote, and smoked turkey), and mains like stuffed cabbage with minced meat, grilled meatballs with pistachio, lamb shank with eggplant purée, ravioli, steamed Turkmen-style mantı (dumpling), and stuffed eggplant.

On a recent visit, we had the beetroot salad (a mix of greens, beetroot, parmesan, grilled zucchini and carrots, and pine nuts), which was a light and tasty dish to start with. The grilled meatballs, served with plain rice, were cooked just right, and had a nice sweet flavor to them. We also had a serving of roasted pumpkin as well as a slice of delicious mushroom pie.

Overall, Auf offers a nice, calm, sincere atmosphere for a healthy and quick lunch. It’s also a nice option for those who need a tête-à-tête over a cup of tea and a slice of tasty dessert. So we suggest you put Auf on your radar, and stop by next time you’re in Pera.

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The Creators of the Organic Backyard: Zeynep Moroğlu and Esra Muslu; by Talya Arditi

In Turkey, the most popular and widely-used legumes are fava beans, kidney beans, black-eyes peas, chickpeas, and lentils. Legumes play a significant role in the Turkish diet, and are found in a variety of shapes, sizes, and forms in most Istanbul eateries. They are cooked with meat or without meat, prepared as salads, served as zeytinyağlı (olive oil) dishes, turned into soups, made into drinks and even desserts,and found in meze platters.

For legume-lovers in Istanbul, here is a list of best legume dishes around town:

Black-eyed pea salad at Zerafet: A mix of black-eyed peas, fresh onions, cucumber, and capsicum,börülce salatasıis only one of the delicious salads atZerafEt. While you’re there, definitely order a serving ofpastırmalı humus(hummus with Turkish spicy sausage). Even though this dish is notorious for being overwhelmingly oily and heavy, it somehow feels deceptively light at ZerafEt. (Click hereto read a full review of ZerafEt.)

Piyaz at Ali Baba Köftecisi: This salad is made with white kidney beans, onions, tomatoes. You can sprinkle it with olive oil, vinegar, and lemon juice and top it with oregano and chili flakes for the ultimate experience. Of course, it is best enjoyed with a serving of Ali Baba’s famous meatballs.

Yuvalama Çorbası at Develi: Yuvalama çorbası is made with rice, meat, chickpeas, yogurt, onion, and mint, and is a great start to a kebab dinner at Develi.

Kuru fasulye at Fasuli: Fasuli is a tradesman’s restaurant in Karaköy specializing in dishes from the Eastern Black Sea region. Their signature dish iskuru fasulye & pilav(white kidney beans and rice).

Warm potato salad with sprouted lentils at Journey:This warm potato salad with sprouted lentils (referred to as çimlendirilmiş mercimekli ılık patates salatası on the menu) at Journey is very tasty but more importantly energizing. Plus you get to be surrounded by Cihangir’s hipsters while you eat it. (Click here for a full review of Journey.)

Fava atHünkar:Fava is a specialty of Hünkar and is definitely a must-try for those who love fava beans. It must be noted that theirmercimek köftesi(lentil balls) also top the list of must-try legume dishes. Theiraşure (a pudding made primarily with chickpeas, kidney beans, rice, and sugar, then topped with walnuts, pistachios, pomegranate, almonds, and cinnamon) is a legume-based dessert that is also top notch.

Kuru fasulye at Bizce Kuru: You'll find classickuru fasulye(kidney beans) cooked to perfection at Bizce Kuru. Enjoy it with a serving of buttery rice, very good thick yogurt, and peasant bread.

Lentil soup at Park Şamdan or Şans: Both Park Şamdan and Şans make a terrific lentil soup.

Spicy sausage (with pistachios) and hummus at müzedechanga: Müzedechanga's fıstıklı Changa sucuk ve humus is a modern take on a traditional dish. The sausage is juicy on the inside and crispy on the outside, and the hummus is just perfection. (Click here for a full review of müzedechanga.)

Bomba fasulye at Kıyı: Unlike the typical pilaki you find at most fish restaurants, bomba fasulyeat Kıyı is made with large kidney beans, and cooked with tomato paste and onions in a casserole. Yum!

Black-eyed pea salad at 9 Ece Aksoy: 9 Ece Aksoy’s hands-on owner and chef Ece uses only local and seasonal ingredients, and puts out a deliciousbörülce salatası(black-eyed pea salad) served on a bed of inviting greens.

Mung bean salad at Nar Lokanta:Maş piyazı at Nar Lokantais a light and simple dish of mung beans with fresh onions and herbs, dressed with a pomegranate sauce that gives it a wonderful tangy flavor.

Chana Masala at Musafir: Chana Masala is a simply delicious chickpea curry best enjoyed at Musafir.

Kuru fasulye at Çanak: Cooked over a barbeque for over 5 hours, the kuru fasulye at Çanak comes all the way from the Eastern city of Erzurum. It is served plain, with beef, or with pastırma (Turkish cured beef). Make sure to order a serving of rice and pickles., too.

Boza at Vefa Bozacısı: Traditionally sold on chilly winter evenings in on the streets,bozais a creamy and slightly sweet yet acidic drink made from fermented wheat. It is best enjoyed with a dusting of cinnamon on top atVefa Bozacısı.

For recipes of delicious legume dishes, order your copy ofIstanbul Contemporary Cuisine by Hande Bozdoğan and Lale Apa.

The Ace Restaurant, which is open all day, has an à la carte menu in a smart-casual setting. The continental menu is designed to appeal to a broad audience, and includes the highly recommended velouté of wild mushroom soup, which is rich and flavorful.

Other recommended dishes include the smoked salmon rolls, asparagus risotto, their house specialty, pizza ace, and tarhana: breaded fillet of salmon. The dessert selection includes American-style cheesecakes as well as white chocolate soufflé and crème brulée with sweet pumpkin.Avantgarde Hotel, Büyükdere Caddesi No.161 Zincirlikuyu; P:(0212) 337 04 44

In commemoration of the 400th anniversary of diplomatic relations between Turkey and the Netherlands, the Sakıp Sabancı Museum (which is also celebrating its own 10th anniversary) has undertaken to put on nothing less than “the first large scale exhibition of Dutch Art in Turkey,” in the words of the museum’s director, Dr. Nazan Ölçer. The works in this show, Karanlıkla Işıgın Buluştuğu Yerde…Rembrandt ve Çağdaşları: Hollanda Sanatının Altın Çağı(Where Darkness Meets Light…Rembrandt and his Contemporaries: The Golden Age of Dutch Art) are on loan from Amsterdam’s Rijksmuseum, as well as from other museums and private collections inside and outside the Netherlands. The phrase “Where Darkness Meets Light” is a reference to the technique of chiaroscuro – the depiction of contrast between light and shadow – for which Rembrandt’s paintings are noted.

The show contains over a hundred works of art – paintings, drawings, etchings, and more – by nearly five dozen different artists (including well-known figures like Frans Hals, Jan Steen, and Jacob van Ruisdael) from the 17^th century, a period widely regarded as the “Golden Age” of Dutch art. When exactly the Golden Age ended is a matter for debate; the information panels at this exhibition (which provide abundant historical background both about Holland and about concurrent historical events elsewhere in the world) suggest that by 1672, Holland’s so-called “Year of Disaster,” the handwriting was on the wall.

As the show explains, the chief source of artistic patronage in the 17^th century Netherlands was not the Church or the (non-existent) monarchy, but rather the townspeople known as burghers. The subject matter of many of the works in this show – whether portraits, landscapes, or still lifes – is accordingly realistic, with pictures of tradesmen like bakers and fishmongers taking the place of saints, archbishops, or dukes. In these paintings you can see homely, prosaic details such as laundry baskets full of laundry, nutshells lying on the floor of a drunkard’s room, blood dripping from newly-slaughtered animals, and still lifes featuring half-peeled oranges and peppercorns (the latter newly available in the Netherlands thanks to the Dutch East India Company’s commercial empire.) Even some of the paintings on Biblical subjects (e.g. Hendrick ter Brugghen’s 1619 “The Adoration of the Magi” or the paintings “King David” and “Isaac Blessing Jacob” by two of Rembrandt’s students) are conspicuous for their lack of grandiosity, and their down-to-earth treatment – bordering on irreverence – of their subjects.

The first Rembrandt work you will encounter in the show is his celebrated 1634 portrait of Haesje van Cleyburgh, which you will probably recognize as the image used to advertise this exhibition on billboards around Istanbul. Rembrandt’s portrait of Haesje is renowned for its veracity of detail (capturing the tiniest wrinkles and lines in her face), to demonstrate which the curators have hung the painting side by side with Frans Hals’s ostensibly similar portrait of Maritge Voogt Claesdr, painted five years later but decades behind Rembrandt in technique. Rembrandt’s un-photoshopped yet never unsympathetic treatment of his subjects is also apparent in his famous miniature portrait of his friend, the Jewish physician Dr. Ephraim Bueno. (The show, incidentally, provides a fascinating look at the flourishing Sephardic Jewish community of the Netherlands, with a painting of the famous Portuguese synagogue in Amsterdam – a tourist attraction even in its own day – and artifacts like a menorah of pure silver.) There is also an excellent selection of Rembrandt’s etchings and drawings, which are notable for their masterful use of cross-hatching. These include 1632’s “The Raising of Lazarus” (also the subject of an oil painting which is not in this show), and an oil sketch entitled “Joseph Telling His Dreams,” whose muted colors only stoke our curiosity about what the finished product would have looked like.

Of course, Rembrandt is only one, albeit the most famous, of the artists in this diverse and wide-ranging show. The reviewer’s own favorites included a number of lesser-known landscape paintings such as Aert van der Neer’s “River View in Winter” (1655-60), portraying a party of ice-skaters on a frozen river, in which the artist’s skill at rendering the texture and color of the ice through swirls of white and blue was quite striking, as was his Impressionistic ability to suggest human forms through the tiniest specks of paint. Gerrit Adriaensz Berckheyde’s “The Golden Bend in the Herengracht in Amsterdam” (1671-2) was also striking for its Magritte-like creation of darkness in the daytime, as well as the startlingly lucid reflection of the canal houses in the water of the Herengracht. The hazy, brown-yellow tones of Jan van Goyen’s “View of a Town on a River” (1645) seemed to pervade everything in the painting (sky, sea, trees, houses, church, and ships), but with an end result of unity rather than monotony.

Many tourists in Europe have had the memorable experience of wandering down a narrow alleyway, emerging onto a big square, and unexpectedly finding themselves face to face with a sight they have only seen, till then, in a book or on a computer screen: the Pantheon, say, or Notre Dame. The same kind of experience awaits you on a smaller scale at Rembrandt and his Contemporaries, where two-thirds of the way through the first gallery, you will suddenly find yourself looking at Vermeer’s “The Love Letter.” This remarkable little painting, one of less than three dozen extant works by the artist, invites you to observe its subjects (a young woman and her maid, who is handing her the letter of the title) through an open doorway, in pseudo-voyeuristic fashion. The painting offers tantalizingly few clues to the questions we would like answered: who is the woman? Does she and/or her maid know the author of the letter? At what precise stage of their courtship has this snapshot been taken? This is one place, incidentally, where you’ll be glad you’ve used the show’s audio guide, from which you’ll learn that the painting of a ship at sea on the wall of the woman’s room would have been an “instantly recognizable” symbol of romantic passion to a contemporary of Vermeer.

After you’ve seen all the works in Gallery One, a flight of stairs takes you down to the show’s second gallery. It must be said that the paintings in this section were of less interest to the reviewer than those in Gallery One. The large, pompous canvases in Gallery Two, depicting trade missions and sea battles, seemed at time like borrowings from a naval museum rather than an art museum. Willem van de Velde the Elder’s 1637 “The Battle of the Downs against the Spanish Armada” was perhaps interesting for being the largest ink-on-canvas work the reviewer had ever seen (and for being displayed side-by-side with a similarly themed painting by van de Velde the Younger) but not for much else. You should, however, come down to Gallery Two to see the short film about Rembrandt playing there, which is informative and worth your time.

All in all, this is a superb exhibition, and as no review can do it justice, the best thing is simply to get on a bus to Emirgan and see it yourself. Rembrandt and his Contemporaries, which is being shown with the sponsorship of the governments of Turkey and the Netherlands, as well as numerous corporations including Sabancı Holding, ING Bank, and Philips,runs at the Sakıp Sabancı Museum through June 10^th.

Sakıp Sabancı Müzesi, Sakıp Sabancı Caddesi No. 42, Emirgan; P: (0212) 277 22 00

One thing that makes Tuti special is that it’s both super chic and always casual. That is, depending on where you are seated and what you want to eat. You can choose to dine in one of the private dining rooms (that can take up to 8 people each) and take your pick from the A La Carte menu, or you can choose to eat from the open-buffet and sit by the window and look over Taksim Square.

Both options offer a great dining experience thanks to award-winning Executive Chef Rudolf Van Nunen, a master of Nouvelle Cuisine and a highly-experienced chef in French, Dutch, German, Turkish, Indonesian, and Cajun cuisines. In addition to these skills, its Van Nunen’s commitment to local, regional, seasonal, fresh, and high-quality ingredients that make the food at Tuti such a delight. What sets Van Nunnen apart is his breath of knowledge of Turkish ingredients and produce. He knows exactly where apricot-flavored olive oil is made and the secret behind the unrivalled taste of lamb from the Thrace region.

Tuti, which was completely renewed during the renovation process of the hotel by renowned architect Dan Kwan, now features a predominantly blue and wooden décor. Like the rest of the hotel, the restaurant carries Turkish motifs, and reflects Turkish culture with a modern feel.

The food at Tuti, which is reffered to as “five-star street food” concept, offers pretty much everything that one would hope to taste from Turkish cuisine on a visit to Istanbul. The open-buffet section features salads, zeytinyağlı (olive oil) dishes, mezes, döner, home-cooked dishes, Asian dishes from the Wok station, meat from the chargrill, and much more.

The A La Carte menu offers similarly diverse options. When we went to Tuti for a special tasting, we started off with a Goat Cheese Soufflé served with soda bread, followed by White Tomato Soup served humorously in a traditional Turkish tea glass. The soup, which is prepared from the clear juice of ripe tomatoes, was served warm and is intended to clear the palate between two strong flavored dishes. Next up was the Gold Marinated Smoked Salmon with salad and mango-yogurt sauce. The salmon, which was marinated with sea salt, was covered with 24-carat gold for two days before being served. As a first-time gold-eater, I was quite taken by the experience and was intrigued to find out that gold serves to balance the body and was something the soon-to-be-married princesses were fed back in the day.

It was quite apparent from the first course that the food here was going to be something of a ride. And it certainly continued to be an adventurous one especially when we were served the Duck liver Crème brûlée, apple and ginger emulsion, served with Brioche. On the outside, its deceitfully similar to the classic crème brûlée but a spoonful of it reveals the duck liver hidden below the surface.

Last but not least we had Grilled Sea bass on Skewers, onion and arugula salad, with walnuts and pomegranate reduction. This is an ideal dish for those who are after flavor but also something light. The masterfully cooked fresh fish was delicious, and made a grand finale to the adventurous meal.

That, actually, was the grand finale to the main meal. We also had an impressive dessert platter featuring chocolate velvet, ginger comfit, and pomegranate sorbet with rakı flavor served in ice. Although all desserts were very tasty, the sorbet was the most memorable one due to its presentation and the surprising rakı flavor. Next time you’re at Tuti, make sure you give this sorbet a try!

Tuti Restaurant, Taksim Square, The Marmara Taksim, Taksim; P: (0212) 251 46 96

Indeed, Ottoman cuisine is all the rage in Istanbul’s culinary scene these days. Turks have been gripped with Ottomania, with a growing interest in all things related to the Ottoman Empire’s history and culture. Consequently, many are starting to rediscover Turkey’s multi-ethnic heritage, particularly when it comes to food. The rich ethnic tapestry of the Ottoman Empire resulted in a cuisine with many diverse influences and layers of flavors. This is largely due to the fact that, at its peak, the Ottoman Empire covered vast territories and comprised many ethnic groups. Along with Greeks, Armenians, Kurds, and Jews, there were also numerous lesser-known minority groups such as the Circassians, Laz, Turkmen, Assyrians, and many more.

While there are now many high-end restaurants, such as Divan’s Lokanta, that specialize in Ottoman court cuisine, the city is also dotted with many smaller, lower-profile eateries serving the food of Turkey’s many minority groups. Some of these restaurants are family-run, modest affairs that cater to these minority communities, while others have managed to win a more mainstream following. We decided to explore what Istanbul has to offer when it comes to these more obscure cuisines, or what we like to call “Empire Ethnic” cuisine.

Fıccın

Regime change in the Middle East, the world economy in dire straits, youth protests everywhere, and a general dissatisfaction with the political and economic system has opened the door for revolutionary potential and that seems to be the general topic of many festivals this year. The four film festivals this month (Dağ Film Festival, Filmmor Women’s Film Festival, Istanbul Film Festival, and Akbank Short Film Festival) bring to Istanbul some of the top recent productions in a wide array of topics but with a distinct call for change for the nature of the convoluted world we live in today.

Firstly, a small selection of films will be presented at the Dağ Film Festival at the French Cultural Center between 7-11 March. Since 2006, this film festival has been a favorite among environmentalists and all those who care about the future of our planet. Now, in its seventh year, the Dağ Film Festival puts together a series of nature-themed films and documentaries as well as exhibitions, panel discussions, interviews, and seminars in order to raise awareness on the necessity to take care of our environment. As the planet continues heating and as politicians continue to inadequately address the pressing issues of our planet (as it was evident in the last Copenhagen climate summit), the future of our planet rests in the hands of those with the revolutionary spirit to change the path that we are in. (Click here to see the full program.)

This yearFilmmor Women’s Film Festival, which travels around Turkey,is celebrating its tenth year. The festival, which will be held between 9-19 March in Istanbul, has put together a well-chosen program of feminist cinema from the vaults, starting with films from pioneer filmmaker Alice Guy-Blaché and many other successful female filmmakers and artists that have contributed to the world of motion pictures with films like Europa, Europa, The Piano, andOrlando. This year’s slogan “Damn the Evil Eye” intends to project the revolutionary potential of women in our societies, declaring war against a past where culture and tradition determined the female role. With conferences, workshops, distinct theme selections on gender and sexual identity issues, and the special appearance of a group of Tunisian film directors (who were actively engaged in the deposition of their dictator last year and were called “The Tunisian Jazmines”), this year’s festival certainly puts forward a provokingly clear message that change is a must. (For more details on Filmmor, click here.)

Likewise, the Akbank Short Film Festival put a special focus on documentary films this year in an effort to put social reality on the agenda. This year’s festival, which will be held between 19-29 March, will showcase young local and international filmmakers and serve as a platform for new talents. Free screenings, workshops, panel discussions, and conferences, such as the one with master documentarian Can Dündar, will aim to create an environment in which those interested in filmmaking can have a space of dialogue with filmmakers. (Click here for the full program.)

Last but not least, the 31st Istanbul Film Festival, organized by IKSV, will begin at the end of the month bringing the best of world cinema to a city of voracious movie-goers who have been waiting all year for these two weeks when the city smells like celluloid. This year, the festival (which will be held between 31 March – 15 April) will again be the highlight of Istanbul’s cultural scene with more than two hundred films, workshops, seminars, master classes by world-famous filmmakers, special guests, and awards to the best of international and Turkish cinema. This year, two new sections (“Filming Revolution” and “What’s Happening in Greece?”) will explore the issues troubling our times as well as investigate the themes of upheaval and revolution in an effort to explain the parallels between what is happening in the Middle East and Europe. (For more details on the festival, click here.)

Cinema certainly reflects the pathos of an era. During a time of widespread revolution and upheaval around the world, maybe this series of film festivals will help us understand why the world is in the state that it is. Either way, one thing is for sure: film lovers in Istanbul are going to watch some of the most interesting films we’ve seen in recent times.

İstiklal Caddesi: This long pedestrian road is always filled with people – from all walks of life, all tastes of music, and all sorts of passports. And the bars that line this street offer an equally diverse mix. There are also the side streets that branch out of the main Beyoğlu vessel, doubling the amount of options available.

If you’re an expat who wants to mingle with other expats, or if you’re a local who wants to feel as if you’re on vacation dancing the night away with foreigners, check out Araf (a live-music venue where you can dance to anything from Rebetiko to Anatolian Rock), Ritim Bar for a few reasonably-priced drinks, Live Haymatlos for good-quality independent music, and Nayah if you’re after Reggae.

In addition to these budget hangouts that are filled with travelers and expats, there are also more upscale venues that are attractive to both the Istanbulite and the seasoned traveler. There’s Leb-i Derya that offers fantastic views of the Golden Horn. This is a romantic spot that attracts couples a lot, so beware. There is also 360istanbul, famous for its unrivaled views of Istanbul.

Many 20-30 year-old Istanbulites meet up in TomTom Sokak, which can be best described as an open mall only with bars instead of shops. Possibly the most popular venue here is Tektekçi, a shot bar that is the ideal place to, well, get wasted by drinking really tasty shots. It has to be said, although the concept of Tektekçi is to warm up for a long night out, the music is so good that many end up spending the majority of their night there. If you like to dance to a mix of upbeat songs – anything from Adele and Lily Allen to the golden oldies like “Let’s Twist Again” - you may have to cancel your post-Tektekçi plans.

TomTom is also home to live music venue Indigo andIndigo Loungewhere you can continue your dancing after several Tektekçi shots, Alt. (for a night of jazz), and We for a slightly more tuned down night of drinking.

Şişhane: The other legendary concert venue,Salon IKSV,which brings together different performance styles under one roof, is situated in Şişhane, where a number of chic bars that last until around 2am are located. Bird takes the lead here as the hotspot that attracts the young and the sexy, followed by Baylo, which attracts a mainly 40+ crowd who knows how to have fun. There is also Gozo for cocktails, as well asRook (which attracts a considerably younger crowd) and GoodMoodPera. All these are decent options to give the night a start, but the night really gets going once Şişhane bars are left behind for barhopping in Asmalımescit.

Asmalımescit/Tünel: Everybody knows Tünel – it’s where the nostalgic tram stops at the end of İstiklal Caddesi and it’s where the world’s second oldest underground railway is located. Summer or winter, this square always serves as a meeting point. After the no-tables-and-chairs ban, Tünel’s character did change a bit – some argue for the better, some argue for the worse. Nonetheless, Tünel and Asmalımescit (which is possibly 100 steps away from Tünel) are as lively as ever – even on the coldest of winter nights.

Lokal is the basically what defines nightlife in Tünel. Located right at the square, this multi-storied, multi-genred local favorite provides answers to many crucial nightlife questions: where to mingle with the locals and where to dance all night long. You’ll find different music on different floors, from pop to house. But the best time to really enjoy this place is during summer when the entrance is filled with groups of people drinking and mingling, and passersby, who are unable to help themselves, joining in.

A similar situation is evident on Şehbender Sokak in Asmalımescit. This is the street where Istanbul’s legendary concert venue Babylon is located. There is a concert or a party going on almost every night of the week here (except during the summer months when the venue is closed and moves to its summer location in Çeşme). Pre-concert meet ups, cigarette breaks throughout the concert, and post-concert gatherings turn this street into a street party. Few steps down is where Küçük Otto, another legendary Istanbul bar, is located. Regardless of the weather, crowds flock to this tiny bar, with the party bustling both indoors and outdoors by the street. Many people just pass through there even if they don’t intend on going to Otto simply because the street is always filled with someone they know that they haven’t seen in a while.

Many Otto-goers also stop by Parantez at some point in the night for shots, an end-of-the-night beer, or just to hang out. This similarly tiny bar is located on Jurnal Sokak (parallel to Şehbender) where Babylon Lounge is located. There is also Faces on the way between Babylon and Babylon Lounge where you’ll find a considerable crowd dancing until the wee hours on a weeknight.

Another very popular bar that probably marks the transition from Asmalımescit to Pera is Off Pera. This tiny bar is filled with locals and the occasional traveler who enjoys a mix of Turkish pop, Turkish rock, and popular dance songs.

Pera: Pera has a bunch of clubs (mainly playing Turkish pop). Possibly, the only club here that makes Pera a great area for nightlife is Nupera. During winter, Nupera is a combination of three distinctively-conceptualized restaurants (Auf, LilBitz, and 67) that transform into nightclubs after midnight. During summer, the entertainment moves up to the rooftop restaurant/club called Nuteras, which is famous for its exceptional views of the old city as well as its hip and young crowd. During winter, you can bar-hop without putting your jacket on, dancing to funky house, electro, 80s and 90s, and popular dance songs.

Cihangir:Cihangir is where most people go for late-night partying. There are two very popular places in Cihangir. One of them is Kiki, which gets going around 2am, and the other one is MiniMüzikhol, which is at its peak at 4am when the crowds in Asmalımescit flock to Cihangir. Both places tend to get very crowded with Istanbul’s hipsters. If you’re after minimal techno, house, funk, and disco, and don’t mind being squished, then do give these places a try.

Located within the historic Doğan Apartmanı on Serdar-ı Ekrem Caddesi, Giyçek is a modern photography studio that takes nostalgic photos. Giyçek literally means get dressed and take a photo, and that’s what this old time photo studio is all about – a place where you get to dress up in old Ottoman clothing and get your photo taken. You’ll find a wide variety of Ottoman costumes, which were all designed specifically for the studio. You can choose to be a Paşa (a highly-ranked Ottoman official), a külhanbeyi (the Ottoman version of a gang leader), or a wide variety of other Ottoman characters from both old and more modern periods of the Empire. There’ll also be a wide range of accessories to add to the photo to give that extra touch of authenticity, such as musical instruments, hats, jewelry, and more.

If you walk on Galip Dede Caddesi going down from İstiklal Caddesi (right by Tünel), you’ll see Serdar-ı Ekrem Caddesi on your left in a few minutes. Past Füreyya Balıkçısı right on the corner (a great option for lunch if you’re after tasty, fresh fish), you’ll see Atölye dö Bora, a second-hand store and a mini hair salon located underground, right below a butcher.This dimly-lit, out-of-a-movie-scene kind of vintage shop features a very well-chosen men’s section and a varied women’s section full of dresses, skirts, shoes, bags. You may come out of this store with some great vintage finds and even get a very funky (and short) haircut.

If you really enjoy vintage stuff, make sure you stop by Stok 60/70, a similiarly-hidden store a bit further down on this street. The store is full of mid-20th-century furniture and housewares from Istanbul, Ankara, and İzmir that have been salvaged and renewed. You may end up finding that polka-dot armchair that you’ve been looking for since forever.

Vintage shopping aside, your next stop on Serdar-ı Ekrem is Lunapark. This is the kind of store that you can’t help but buy something before leaving it. It’s quite a unique store, specializing in items that are solely Turkish – by nostalgic Turkish brands or contemporary Turkish designers. Here, you’ll find a range of traditional and humorous products, from cosmetics, accessories, bags, and food to home décor, stationary, and books.

A few steps further down you’ll see Simay Bülbül. Simay Bülbül is a famous Turkish designer known for her extraordinary leather outfits. If you’re interested in seeing what Turkish designers are up to these days, make sure to check out jewelry designer Aida Pekin’s store (located all the way at the end of the street) and world-renowned designer Arzu Kaprol. There is also Building, selling a range of items (dresses, jewelry, accessories, shoes, bags) by Turkish designers, and Lilipud, which provides the outfits for the popular TV servies Muhteşem Yüzyıl, carries a very simply elegant range of clothing.

When you want to take a break from shopping/window-shopping, head to the nostalgic photography studio Giyçek. Dress up like an Ottoman Sultan or a külhanbeyi (the Ottoman version of a gang leader), and have fun getting your photo taken. Make sure you pay attention to the building that the studio is housed in. The building is called Doğan Apartmanı and its one of the historic buildings in the area that was built in 1895.

After your photo shoot, stop by Mavra, a cozy little cafe that has indulge-worthy appetizers, salads, pastas, and meat-heavy mains. It’s quite a calm café, often filled with its frequenters just typing away on their laptops or reading the day’s paper as if they are in their own living rooms.

Once you get going again, stop by Sofa Art & Antiques. This quirky little store has something for every taste and budget. It’s kind of a mythical treasure box, with each corner hiding an unexpected find, both old and new. This may be a sculpture, a mirror, or maybe a piece of jewelry.

Last but not least, go into Atelier 55, a very elegant boutique selling clothing, jewelry, and home décor items by Turkish as well as international designers, uch as Bora Aksu, Batya Kebudi, Misela, R Y Augousti, Umit Benan, and Charlotte Olympia.

At the end of this fun but possibly tiring day, reward yourself with a glass of champagne and a very very good mousse au chocolat at the charming Le Fumoir (the bar/restaurant/lobby of Georges Hotel).

Atölye dö Bora,Serdar-ı Ekrem Sokak No.8/A, Galata; P: (0212) 243 08 12

Lunapark, Serdar-ı Ekrem Caddesi No. 17/B, Galata; P: (0212) 245 94 14

Simay Bülbül, Şahkulu Bostan Aokak No. 22, Galata; P: (0212) 292 45 86

Arzu Kaprol, Serdar-ı Ekrem Sokak Kamondo Apartmanı No.22, Galata; P: (0212) 252 75 71

Le Fumoir, Serdar-I Ekrem Sokak No.24, Galata; P: (0212) 244 24 23

Lilipud, Serdar-ı Ekrem Sokak No.25/A, Galata; P: (0212) 252 71 73

Giyçek, Serdar-ı Ekrem Sokak Doğan Apartmanı No.30/C, Galata; P: (0212) 251 81 81

Building, Serdar-ı Ekrem Caddesi No. 27/A, Galata; P: (0212) 243 07 17

Mavra, Serdar-ı Ekrem Caddesi No. 31/A, Galata; P: (0212) 252 74 88

Aida Pekin, Serdar-ı Ekrem Sokak No. 44A, Galata; P: (0212) 243 12 11

Sofa Art & Antiques, Serdar-ı Ekrem Sokak No.47, Galata; P: (0212) 292 39 77

Atelier 55, Serdar-ı Ekrem Sokak Seraskerci Çıkmazı No.55, Galata; P: (0212) 245 32 55

Stok 60/70, Serdar-ı Ekrem Sokak Doğan Apartmanı, Galata; P: (0212) 252 68 70

The March/April issue of The Guide Istanbul is out now! Read all about the coolest new happenings in the city, in arts, culture, dining, shopping and more. For this issue, the Guide Istanbul scoured the Galata neighborhood to find the best new boutique hotels. Also, see the imperial harem in a whole new light, with the article Private Practice. You can learn more about Turkey’s burgeoning wine sector including recommendations on the Top 7 Turkish wines in our interview with sommelier Burçak Desombre. And, read all about Istanbul’s latest Japanese restaurant Maromi, our Editor’s Choice for this month. You’ll find all this and much more, so pick up your copy today.

To subscribe to the magazine, contact us here.

Sıdıka is truly one of those fabled places that you could pass by a dozen times without noticing. Located on a somewhat colorless stretch of Şair Nedim Caddesi (midway between the fancy row houses of Akaretler and the fancy Ihlamur Kasrı of Dikilitaş), the restaurant, run by eponymous owner Sıdıka Hanım, is an unexpected delight in an unexpected location.

The restaurant is small (seating approximately 40 people) with a friendly, intimate atmosphere. The day’s menu is written on a chalkboard in front, and Sıdıka Hanım frequently makes the rounds of her customers, chatting with them and providing information about what is on the menu. Sıdıka is normally only open for dinner, except for Fridays, when it also serves lunch.

It would be a crime to come to Sıdıka only to order köfte, as the restaurant is known for the quality and variety of the seafood and meze which take up most of its menu. These two categories overlap to a great extent, with cold meze like hardal soslu uskumru (mackerel in mustard sauce), levrek marine (marinated sea bass), and tarama (fish roe salad), as well as hot seafood appetizers like kalamar tava (fried calamari), tereyağda karides (shrimps in butter), and ahtapot ızgara (grilled octopus). The last item is especially recommended. Coming from Cunda Island in the Aegean, the octopus is extremely tender (without the rubbery texture that octopus often has) and tastes faintly of barbecued chicken.

The main fish courses are equally accomplished. In addition to the fish of the day, you can find grilled levrek (sea bass) and çipura (sea bream) on the menu. However, on your first visit, you ought to try Sıdıka’s signature dish, asma yaprağında levrek(sea bass wrapped in grape leaves). While “grape leaves” might call to mind the popular Turkish/Mediterranean meze known as yaprak sarma, here they have a crackly, papery consistency like the dried seaweed used in Japanese cooking – a perfect textural balance to the tender fish meat inside. Sıdıka’s pungent, tomato-flavored fish soup (available on Friday only) is also excellent, and is a great way to whet your appetite before moving on to meze and main courses.

On this note, it should be said that Sıdıka Hanım is extremely conscientious about environmental issues when it comes to fish. A sign prominently displayed on the wall of the restaurant announces that çinekop and sarıkanat (immature bluefish which have not reached spawning age) are not on the menu of this establishment. Sıdıka Hanım is also a devotee of the Slow Food movement; those who are curious to learn more about Slow Food can pick up a book on the subject from the restaurant.

Mention should also be made of a few other meze: a delicious, rich fava bean puree (think fava-hummus) and – even more delicious – Sıdıka’s fıstıklı peynir, a garlicky mixture of pistachio and feta cheese. If you run out of bread with which to scoop it up, you’ll probably start shoveling it away with your fork – it’s that good.

Sıdıka serves over a dozen kinds of red and white wine (available by the bottle or the glass) plus rakı and imported beer. With an atmospheric yet unobtrusive soundtrack of soft jazz music, the restaurant is ideally suited to conversation. The next time you find yourself in Akaretler (or indeed in Beşiktaş), you’re urged to take a stroll up Şair Nedim Caddesi and pay a visit to Sıdıka.

Sıdıka, Şair Nedim Caddesi No.38, Beşiktaş; P:(0212) 259 72 32

Known affectionately as the “Little Sparrow” to her numerous fans, Sezen Aksu has long been one of Turkey’s leading singers, songwriters and composers. She began her career in the early 1970s when she was still in her teens. Her rich voice, memorable songs and her strong stage presence in spite of her small stature have sustained a loyal following for Turkey’s “Edith Piaf.” In 2002, Sezen Aksu brought together Greek, Jewish and Armenian musicians, as well as a choir of Kurdish children from Diyarbakir for a series of concerts that broke down linguistic and ethnic barriers, and promoted Turkey’s cultural diversity. She has also cooperated with foreign artists, such as the well-known Balkan musician Goran Bregoviç. As a music producer, Sezen Aksu also helped launch the careers of other successful Turkish artists like Aşkın Nur Yengi, Levent Yüksel and Sertab Erener.

Güler Sabancı

A pioneer on several fronts, Güler Sabancı took over as chair of the vast Sabancı Holding upon the death of her uncle and mentor, Sakıp Sabancı, in 2004. Known for her business acumen and careful risk assessment, she figures on the Forbes list of the 100 most powerful women in the world. She made her way up gradually, beginning her career in a very male-dominated environment: a tyre production factory. In 1984, she became the first woman member of TUSIAD, the Turkish Industry and Business Association. Through the foundation set up by her family, she supports numerous social projects. She was a key player in the development of Sabancı University, founded in 1999 and now one of Turkey’s most successful universities, personally nurturing the project she has described as “her baby” from the beginning. A wine aficionado, she also launched the Gülor line, produced from vineyards she planted in Thrace.

Şafak Pavey

One of the rising stars of the Turkish political scene and a passionate human rights advocate, Şafak Pavey entered parliament after the June 2011 elections as Istanbul deputy for the Republican People’s Party (CHP). She was a 19 year-old film and art student in Zurich when she lost her left arm and leg in a tragic train accident. Through the gruelling period that followed, she refused to let the loss of her limbs curb her desire to promote social justice and minority rights. After studying at the London School of Economics, she worked for UN High Commission for Refugees in several countries before taking up a high-level position at the UN Commission for Human Rights. A role model for many people with disabilities, she is a vocal advocate of their rights. Şafak Pavey is the author of several books, including a volume on refugee rights in Iran, written with Nobel Laureate Şirin Ebadi.

Fatma Şahin

The only female member of the current Turkish government, Fatma Şahin has already made her mark as a very active minister, dedicated to improving women and children’s rights in Turkey. Born in Gaziantep, she studied chemical engineering at Istanbul Technical University before joining Sanko Holding where she worked for 18 years. A founding member of the Justice and Development Party (AKP), she enter parliament in 2002 and became the leader of the women’s branch of the AKP in 2007. In 2006, she led a parliamentary commission set up to investigate “honor” killings, laying the foundations for her current work. As Minister for the Family and Social Policy, she has spearheaded efforts to improve legal protections for victims of domestic violence, working with women’s rights organisations to develop a new law expected to be adopted on March 8, International Women’s Day.

Yasemin Çongar

Deputy editor-in-chief of the daily Taraf and a regular columnist for the paper, Yasemin Çongar has become an influential and fearless media voice in Turkey. She began her career in journalism at the ANKA news agency in 1984, before joining the daily Cumhuriyet. In the mid-1990s, she moved to the United States and became Washington correspondent for Milliyet, writing not just on politics and diplomacy, but also arts and literature. From Washington, she later presented a television program for CNN Türk before returning to Turkey to take up the challenge of launching a newspaper dedicated to supporting Turkey’s democratization process. No other media outlet has scored as many scoops, caused as much controversy and broken as many taboos as Taraf, founded in 2007. Yasemin Çongar has faced lawsuits, like many of her colleagues at Taraf, but they have not affected her determination to maintain journalistic independence.

Ümit Boyner

As chair of TUSIAD (Turkish Industry and Business Association), recently re-elected for a second term, Ümit Boyner represents 600 powerful members, who control up to 2,500 major companies and contribute a major share of Turkey’s economy. Often in the media spotlight due to her influential position, Ms Boyner juggles numerous other activities. A former banker and finance executive, she is a board member of Boyner Holding, focusing mainly on finance and investments. The lively Ms. Boyner is also an active player in civil society. One of the founders of KAGIDER, an association of women entrepreneurs launched to help more women set up their own companies, she is also involved in several other non-profit groups, including the Education Volunteers Foundation and the Corporate Volunteer Association. Originally from Ayvalik, on the Aegean coast, she enjoys spending time with her husband Cem and their children in Cunda, where the family produces olive oil.

Rakel Dink

Rakel Dink, née Rakel Yağbasan in Silopi, near the Iraqi border, the daughter of a prominent Armenian tribesman, became an influential public figure when her husband, the well-known Armenian Turkish journalist Hrant Dink was murdered by nationalists in the streets of Şişli on January 19, 2007. On the day of his funeral, Rakel Dink stood in front of tens of thousands of mourners who had gathered to pay their respects. With pain etched on her face, she read out a moving letter to the man she had known and loved since they met as young children in an orphanage. Dignified in her grief and determined to get justice for her husband, she has become an important symbol of steadfast resistance against fanaticism and hatred. Now president of the foundation founded in Hrant Dink’s memory, Rakel Dink has taken over her husband’s mantle and, together with their three children, she continues to spread his message of peace and tolerance in Turkey and around the world.

How do you make money? How did you find your job? How much would you say is absolutely necessary to survive in the city?

Valerie Harrison: In the two and a half years that I’ve been in Istanbul, I have worked and made money through various positions. I found my first job as an English teacher, which is fairly easy to do for any native English speaker and was later fortunate enough to move onto positions in my desired field through a friend’s network. The sufficiency of a monthly salary depends on what sort of “survival” one is looking for, but I think realistically the bare minimum would be 1,500 TL a month, while also considering that it’s always best to have flexibility in your expenses because there is much to see and do.

Gillian Morris: Like my apartment, I found my work through contacts I made once I was already living in Istanbul. I'm a freelance writer, mostly creating reports about the energy sector in the Middle East. It doesn't take much to live in this city - I know people who live quite happily on $600 a month. It depends to a large degree on where you live and if you drink - alcohol is so expensive here!

Robert Morris: The default option for Anglophone ex-pats is English language teaching. Awide variety of companies serve many different markets. Some teach classes of children and adults the basics, while some find themselves well paid for private lessons polishing the English of already fluent executives. If you want a job in this field it is almost certainly available, withyour options depending on your background. I have met English teachers here who have not attained any schooling beyond high school. Basic English language knowledge is your ticket, and no experience is necessary.If you want to do something other than teach it is a bit more difficult. The answer is the same as anywhere else: “Network, Network, Network.” Some part-time English teaching might be a good way to broaden your network, but asurprising amount of people I know found their jobs in bars. I have an American legal degree, and have had some luck sending out resumes and cover letters, but if you do not have a graduate degree or some specialized experience, you should probably get an English teaching job to pay the bills, and then just keep your eyes open.

Aylin Erman: I came to Istanbul with only a few ideas of what I could possibly do. I made sure to connect with some people from my college’s alumni network and got the lowdown on what the market was like for English-speaking residents. Luckily, within the first week I arrived, I had several opportunities on the table. I find that English teaching is a great buffer while you get yourself situated and, if you enjoy the lifestyle, a great way to live in the city. If you want more structure, there are also opportunities that pop up here and there, but you have to keep engaging and reaching out.

What was the hardest part about moving to Istanbul?

VH: For me, the city first came across as vast and a bit overwhelming. However, with time, and once I settled down into my own neighborhood and became acclimated with my surroundings, that daunting feeling disappeared. The Turkish culture is very hospitable and even getting to know your neighbors is easy and helps to make you feel more at home.

GM: I didn't find it hard at all because I didn't have any idea how long I'd stay and didn’t feel like I'd made a huge shift. I gave myself three months to figure out a way to support myself, not sure I was going to make it - two and a half months in, I still hadn't found a good fit work-wise - I ended up getting lucky right attheend of my 'trial period'.

RM: The lack of ethnic food. Istanbul is a foodie’s paradise for about two months. The Mediterranean fare is lovely and the freshness and taste of the produce is extraordinary. I was a tomato lover back in the states, but on my last trip back I no longer ate the tasteless American varieties. If you cook for yourself, Istanbul offers affordable abundance, and many great markets. Unfortunately I’m a big consumer of delivery services, and appreciate a range of ethnic food, and Turkey doesn’t have that yet. You can find one or two decent examples of most types of food. Unfortunately they tend to onlybe decent and very expensive. Istanbul is a city of15-20 million people, and I can count the number of decent Sushi places on one hand. This situation is improving every day,butif you are used to the range of food options provided in any mid-sized American or European city, you will be disappointed. This is the only drawback I can think of.

AE: The bureaucratic system in Turkey is pretty annoying. In order to put a lease on my current apartment, I found myself in a 2-3 month stint of moving from one office to the next in order to obtain all the relevant permits and set up accounts for electricity, gas and water. At first it seemed like I never had the right form or was at the wrong office. Once this process was complete, however, life was good – save for the traffic!

Was it difficult to make friends with locals? How would you suggest doing so?

VH: I wouldn’t say it is necessarily difficult to make friends with locals but everyone’s situation will be different. Everyone comes to Istanbul for different reasons so will be faced with different social settings as a result. With that being said, searching for a room in shared flats with students or young professionals is a good way for meeting both international and Turkish friends. Most Turks who have a good grasp of English have many international friends, so finding a group of friends from many different nationalities is quite easy.

GM: It's not difficult at all to meet locals - they're all around! On the whole, Turks are very friendly and accessible: they'll invite you to dinner at their mother's house within minutes of meeting you. If you don't meet Turkish people through work or general socializing at bars, two professional networking organizations have frequent gatherings where you'll come into contact with lots of English-speaking Turks. Internations.com, technically an expat networking group, is in reality mostly Turkish, and meets up at least once a month. AlumniTurk, which is for anyone living here that has graduated from an American or European University, meets slightly less frequently.

RM:It is sometimes difficult to make friends with locals. &nbsp;Some Turkish people will seek you out and are eager to make connections, while others are more reticent. &nbsp;The best way to meet Turkish people is&nbsp;at work, because you instantly have something in common that crosses cultural lines, even if it&rsquo;s just the same boss to complain about. &nbsp;The people I met at my internship a year ago have been an incredible resource.

James Fish:I don't think it was easier or harder to make friends with people here than anywhere else, it's just a matter of being friendly yourself. Turkish people, especially people my age, are as friendly, if not friendlier, than many other places I've been and are willing to engage with you if you are with them. If you want to make friends with locals, I suggest just being open to new things, being willing to spend a little disposable income to go out in groups and meet new people, actively trying to learn and speak even a little Turkish, and not solely hanging out in the expat community; as easy or as comfortable as that may be.

AE:I was lucky to have a few Turkish friends who lived in the city, which has been absolutely ideal in terms of navigating a lot of the issues surrounding getting settled. I find that Turkish people are extremely friendly, but to tap into an already established friend group is a bit difficult and takes a bit more time. I find it easier to make everyday, light friends by just doing the daily grind, because people are so open and talkative here. However, finding a close-knit group is tough, as it is to newcomers anywhere else in the world.

How is your level of Turkish? Can you suggest places and/or ways that people can improve their Turkish skills? How do your language skills influence your life in Istanbul? What level of Turkish is necessary to function in the city?

VH: My Turkish is conversational; definitely not perfect but enough for me to understand and communicate most things. My suggestion for anyone who wants to improve their language skills is to completely immerse themselves in it. From music to books to films to a taxi driver chat, try to surround yourself with the language as much as possible throughout daily activities. Turkish is a really difficult language and takes a lot of patience so it is best to find ways that will fit into your day-to-day life. For beginners, the first few levels of a language course would of course be very useful as well. Having a good grasp of the language opens up a lot of different opportunities in the city. It allows you to expand your relationship with the culture in many different capacities. It is possible to function on very little but when it comes to issues such as landlords, maintenance, etc. it is essential to be able to communicate.

GM: Like everyone else, I wish my Turkish were better, but it's easy enough to get by with only a basic level. I learned a bit of Turkish throughthe Pimsleur language tapes, Rosetta Stone, andtheFono series of books.TheFono, which are basic stories in ascending level of difficulty, have been really instructive. I took some classes at Kedicat language school, which I thought were excellent, but I like working at my own pace more thantheclassroom setting.

RM:Turkey is a metropolis that has gone through a population explosion. Much of the population is either one generation removed or has come directly from the fields of Anatolia. The English language base is much lower than that in any European capital and many Middle Eastern cities. This can be challenging, but as long as you keep a positive attitude it can be very amusing.

The Turkish taxi drivers have been my greatest teachers. If you learn the phrase “Turkce ogrenmeyi calisiyorum” (“I am working on learning Turkish”), most will be amused and struggle through a conversation with you. An added benefit of this approach is the fact that I am the only expat I know without a cab driver horror story. If you establish that you are interested and local enough to at least attempt to learn they are much less likely to rip you off. I have heard good things about the Dilmer language learning school, but haven’t given them a try yet.

AE:I luckily had grown up speaking Turkish, since my father is from Turkey. However I still have an American accent and am by no means a “local” in terms of understanding the range of nuances the language offers. I find that knowing Turkish definitely helps to handle certain situations, but I notice that many people get on well without knowing a lick of it. It really depends on how you create your bubble within the city and who you choose to surround yourself with and the places you venture to. I would suggest taking lessons at One World Language School, which is self-tailored and really affordable.

What has surprised you the most about Istanbul? Politically, religiously, economically and culturally?

VH: I was quite familiar with Turkey’s political and economic situation before coming to live here, so it wasn’t much of a surprise. However, I was pleasantly surprised to find that Istanbul has much to offer in regards to its contemporary art scene, live international music scene, seasonal film festivals, exciting nightlife, etc, since I was merely expecting to see historical landmarks (of which, of course, there are many). It is truly impossible to get bored in Istanbul and each week brings new cultural offerings and events.

GM: What's surprised me most about Turkey is how homogeneous it is. Everyone talks about Turkey being a crossroads of civilizations, where East meets West, and I expected Istanbul to be much more diverse than it is. True, there are quite a few Kurds, Greeks, and Armenians, and a smattering of European expat, but there's almost no one from Africa, the Middle East, Asia, or Latin America.

RM:The bookstores have been very surprising, and the range of books available has been shocking. Walking through big Barnes & Noble-type chain book stores like D&R is humbling. They are filled with serious works of philosophy and history that would be out of place in a similar American store. It's not that I have seen anyone reading them but at least all of these great books are offered.

JF:How enjoyable life is here! I had heard it was great, but it's completely different to have arrived and started living in an area that's beautiful, vibrant, engaging, and full of potential in so many ways. I think the big surprise comes when you visit other parts of Turkey even only an hour or so outside Istanbul and realize that Turkey isn't just Istanbul, and Istanbul isn't Turkey - it's like visiting New York and thinking it's representative of all of America, never having seen the mid-west or southwest or deep south.

AE:I was surprised by how different Istanbul felt from the rest of Turkey. I am used to visiting the Black Sea region and life is a bit simpler and more traditional there, so moving to Istanbul wasn’t as big of a leap from NYC as I had thought it would be. Istanbul is super cosmopolitan and up-to-speed with the pop culture.

The best way to record Turkish history is not through writing but through the palate, as the lush tasting menu at Enstitü in March will prove to foodies interested in learning how the Turkish kitchen started, evolved, and became what it is today.

Prepared by culinary researcher and instructorNevin Halıcı, the tasting menu is categorized into the four distinct periods of Turkish history corresponding with a 4-week long event, held on Thursdays at Enstitü (Istanbul Culinary Institute)’s restaurant. The historical segments and dates included are: the Central Anatolian Era on March 8, the Seljuq Period on March 15, the Ottoman Period on March 22, and last but not least the Republican Era on March 29. All stages of this comprehensive yet individualistically significant menu have been designed to offer an authentic experience of the cuisine enjoyed during that particular segment in Turkish history as well as an overall understanding of the multitudinous nature of the Turkish kitchen.

Details are as follows:

Central Anatolian Era (Before 1040) on March 8:

Turkish people of the Central Anatolian region were nomadic in nature, with limited information about their culture being available. However, early yet limited writing does present that foods appropriate to their lifestyle in the form of sheep and horse meat as well as pastries made from wheat were consumed.

Menu:Koumiss or ayran (yogurt drink); mantı (Turkish ravioli) with yogurt sauce; braised meat browned in its own fat; yogurt; honey halvah.

Seljuq Period (1040-1299) on March 15:

With the availability of more written evidence during this period, the details of some recipes as well as accounts of ziyafets (feasts) gave more light into the types of meals enjoyed during this era. The use of the oven for meat preparation also began during this time as well as the mixture and presentation of sweet sherbets.

Menu:Traditional sherbet called Sirkencübin; tutmaç çorbası (yogurt soup with meat and dough); keşkek (wheat and chicken stew with lettuce); rice with chickpeas served with zerde (saffron and rice dessert); kayısı hoşafı (stewed apricot compote); coffee.

Ottoman period (1299-1923) on March 22:

With a noticeable growth in prosperity, the Ottoman period in Turkish history is one of the richest in terms of culinary tradition. With the availability of the freshest ingredients and the time and resources necessary for experimentation and growth, recipes in this era rose to the utmost heights.

Menu:Rose or tamarind sherbet; düğün çorbası (yogurt soup with lamb); hünkar beğendi (lamb stew with pureed eggplant); kayısı yahni (apricot stew) served with iç pilav (rice with onions, nuts, diced liver, and currant), leek cooked in olive oil; tel kadayıf (shredded dough baked in syrup); coffee.

Republican Era (1923 on) on March 29:

After the opening of Pera Palace and other European-inspired locales, influences from the West took a step forward in the history of Turkish cuisine. Mayonaise and bechamel sauce appeared as well as the promulgation of seafood dishes, along with desserts like chocolate pudding (which used to be referred to as sup anglez).

Menu:Lemon sherbet with cardamom; yogurt soup; prenses börek (phyllo with cheese); kremalı kebap (creamy lamb stew) served with lettuce, carrot, and radish salad; örgülü pilav (rice with chicken and green peas covered with phyllo); celery cooked in olive oil; sup anglez (chocolate pudding); coffee.

Enstitü, Meşrutiyet Caddesi No. 59, Tepebaşı; P: (0212) 251 22 14-15

Nasra Şimmes

Nasra Şimmes is a woman of contradiction. Even though she is illiterate, she has a true talent for spelling out the colors of her emotions and dreams upon the textiles she paints on. Even though she does not speak any Turkish, she has lived in the city of Mardin since she was born there in 1924, living in the same house and using the same brushes and paints her father left her with so many years ago.

Şimmes’ beautiful textile prints have been decorating Assyrian churches all over Europe, America, and the Middle East in the form of drapes, table cloths, and tapestries for the last fifty years. Now her colorful designs will be on display for the enjoyment of her audience with a special focus on the theme of women and art.

When: 6 March-6 April

Where: Koleksiyon Tarabya Merkezi, Hacıosman Bayırı, Cumhuriyet Mahallesi Bağlar Caddesi No. 35, Tarabya; P: (0212) 363 63 63

How much: Free

Women, Beautiful but Alone

In Women, Beautiful but Alone (Güzel Ama Yalnız Kadınlar), six artists will explore the complicated female identity through the filter of their own personalities. The exhibition, which features works of photography and video installation, explores the absence of women in history and their constant rejection of male-induced rationality. The artists’ work challenges viewers to question their own internalized cultural cues, while exploring femininity through a philosophical and visual mode.

Featured artists are: Arda Yalkın, Baran Tokmakoğlu, Bennu Gerede, Cen Büyükhanlı, Emine Ceylan, and Volkan Ergen.

When:7 March-1 April

Where:ALANistanbul, Asmalımescit Caddesi Atlas Apartmanı No. 5/2, Tünel; P: (0212) 252 94 53

How much: Free

Filmmor

The Filmmor Women’s Film Festival, currently in its tenth year, was established by the Filmmor Women’s Collective to increase women’s participation in cinema and other mass media, and promote films that help achieve its goal of “a life free of sexism, violence and discrimination in cinema, media and eventually in every field...”

The films in the Filmmor festival (short films and feature-length films, black & white and color, silent films and talkies, documentaries, animated films and experimental films), have been made by independent directors from every corner of the globe, and are divided into the following categories: Women’s Cinema; 100 Years of the Feminist Cinema, 10 Years of Filmmor; Retrospective: Jasmins of Tunisia; Retrospective: Marie Mandy; and Sex-ual-ity. The films include both recent offerings as well as films from earlier times, such as cinematic pioneer Alice Guy-Blaché’s prophetic 1906 film The Consequences of Feminism.

In addition to the film screenings, there will also be guest speakers, conferences, panels (on Feminist Cinema and Queer Cinema), and workshops (where attendeees will have the chance to meet prominent directors of women’s films), plus the “Golden Okra Awards” (to take place on the last day of the festival) which seek to recognize those who have made contributions to women’s cinema.

For a complete program of screenings and related events, see the Filmmor website.

When:9 March - 19 March

Where: AFM Fitaş Beyoğlu Salon 7; Fransız Kültür Merkezi; Istanbul Modern; Pera Müzesi

How much: From Ticketturk: 30 TL (festival ticket); 3 TL (individual films)

Language: Various languages with ENG subtitles (check program for details)

Dilek Hanif is an internationally renowned Turkish designer who was on the runway of Paris Haute Couture Week for the 17th time in January, and whose gown was worn by Jane Fonda during the Oscars last month. 



Hanif is known for applying authentic Ottoman elements and items like cepken (a traditional kaftan-like, short vest), kaftans, and traditional Turkish handcrafted designs to modern gowns. Her 2012 Haute Couture Summer Collection was inspired by the refined and daring style of the 90s women, and mainly features pastel colors like off-white, sea green, and beige. The handcrafted designs add a touch of color with vivid colors like silver, coral, green, and blue. Maçka Caddesi No. 59/2, Teşvikiye; P: (0212) 219 37 23

The menu includes a number of delectable options, such as the the pumpkin and leek risotto served with quail and qauil’s egg, the Fontina cheese fondue with porcini sott’olio served with endive, and the beef brisket and Nebbiolo grapes served on a bed of smoked eggplant and quince flavored with gremolata. For dessert French pastry chef Ghislain Gaille has prepared a chocolate globe filled with chocolate mouse and lemon crème, served with caramel and hazelnut ice cream. For those who prefer a less indulgent meal, you can also select from the two or three course menus.Çırağan Caddesi No. 28 Four Seasons Hotel; P:(0212) 381 40 59

Art 350 is the newest art gallery to open on Bağdat Caddesi in Erenköy on the Asian Side. It was established as the extension and permanent gallery space of Galata House of Art, an artist collective that was founded in 2011 to serve as a space for exchanging ideas between artists from Istanbul and Berlin. The gallery, which is managed by Christa Frieda Vogel and Şebnem Kutal, will host exhibitions of contemporary painting, sculpture, and photography by Turkish as well as international artists. The venue will also be home to live music and artists’ discussion programs on a regular basis.

Art 350 opened its doors on February 23 with the exhibition “Transfigurative” by Turkish artist Arzu Başaran and German artist Ruth Biller, two artists whose main interest is the human figure and impermanent nature of the human body and thoughts. The title of this exhibition refers to a common concern on the part of Başaran and Biller with “human transfigurations”; Başaran’s work reflects her preoccupation with inequality, societal pressure, and repression, while Biller’s work is more sensuous and lyrical.Both artists use the canvas to communicate their thoughts, while at the same time making use of mixed techniques and tools, such as photographs, thread, and collage.

ART 350, Bağdat Caddesi No. 350, Erenköy; P: (0216) 369 80 50

Delicatessen:Take a couple of friends with you and enjoy the pomegranate martini here.Mim Kemal Öke Caddesi No.19/1,Nişantaşı; P: (0212) 225 06 04

Le Fumoir:Head to Galata’s hotspot and enjoy a glass of champagne at the bar. If you’re after something sweet, definitely go for the chocolate mousse that is oh so good! Serdar-I Ekrem Sokak No.24, Galata; P: (0212) 244 24 2

Bird:Head to thisŞişhaneclassic and enjoy a glass (or two) of Bird Mojito made with pomegranate juice. If you’re hungry, we suggest you nibble on guacamole with shrimp. Meşrutiyet Caddesi No. 103,Şişhane; P: (0212) 245 70 85

Biber:The meeting point of the stylish Nişantaşıcrowd, Biber is a great bar to hang out for a few hours listening to the best of the oldies and drinking whatever suits your mood. Abdi İpekçi Caddesi No. 36,Nişantaşı; P: (0212) 231 41 06

Baylo:If you want a tête-à-tête, head to Baylo and enjoy the charcuterie plate with a glass (or bottle) of wine. Make sure you try the delicious green apple martini afterwards! Asmalımescit Mahallesi Meşrutiyet Caddesi No.107A,Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 243 60 18

Redemption, salvation, nirvana or whatever it is that you use to refer to the state of feeling pure joy is, unlike others argue, easily reachable. Just cross the street from the Ulus exit of Akmerkez and at the helm of the Yeni Yol is ZerafEt – the temple where prayers come true in the form of kebabs.

We weren’t aware but we (one vegetarian-prone and two meat-loving members of The Guide Istanbul) were in for a feast at Zerafet – a feast that was first for the eyes then for the stomach.

It all started very innocently with a bowl of soup: the yuvalama çorbası, which is basically yayla çorbası on steroids, is a yogurt-based soup with chickpeas, bits of lamb, tiny gnocchi-like dough balls, and mint. After this light introduction, the army of cold and hot starters made their way onto our table.

My first tasting was the muammara, a definite must-try for anyone remotely aroused by spicy food. Made with walnuts, garlic, red pepper paste, and bread crumbs, this paste is best enjoyed by spreading over the piping hot lavaş-like bread. The only warning necessary is this: make sure that you’ve got one foot near the brakes because you’ll need to restrain yourself if you want to leave space for what is to come.

And what comes after will be just as good as that first feisty plate.

The tabouleh, for instance, is quite special not just because it tasted delicious but also because it’s an uniquely presented feast for the eyes. Comfortably seated within a mussel-shaped lettuce leaf, the salad was topped with hot pink colored pomegranate seeds. Once sprinkled with a generous amount of nar ekşisi (pomegranate molasses), you get a mammoth-sized yum.

In fact, pomegranate seeds and nar ekşisi are the secret ingredients that carry the dishes at ZerafEt to the finish line, especially the salads, which are surprisingly comparable to the meats dishes. There is the glorious Antep pirpirim salatası, made with fresh purslane, fresh onions, cucumber, green olives, tomato, sumac, flaked red pepper, oregano, dry mint, and topped with virgin olive oil and nar ekşisi. Our favorite salad was the çingene salatası (which literally means gypsy salad). It is made with a mix of 14 different greens (that change seasonally), and included rocket, pirpirim (wild purslane), basil, cucumber, beetroot, pomegranate seeds, green onions, lolorosso, topped with virgin olive oil, nar ekşisi, and lemon. Legume lovers can confidently order the börülce salatası, a mix of black-eyed peas, fresh onions, cucumber, and capsicum.

We moved on from inventively fresh salads to classic Turkish legends starting with lahmacun. This Turkish specialty is often referred to as Turkish pizza due to its round shape. This lahmacun, however, doesn’t resemble the typical lahmacun or even the best one you’ve claimed to have so far. The awe-inspiring amount of topping takes over the crust, which literally makes you wonder whether both sides of the dough are covered with minced meat and spices. This ideal mix of crunchiness, softness, and flavor can only be defined as the best lahmacun I’ve ever had. The only trick is to eat it while it’s hot. And the same goes for the pastırmalı humus (hummus with cured beef). Even though this dish is notorious for being overwhelmingly oily and heavy, here it somehow feels deceptively light. The secret is that the butter is sprinkled on before the humus makes its way into the oven, and so it takes on a bread-crumb-like texture. Salivating yet?

We know you are. Now, let’s get into the mains.

We had Ali Nazik, sebzeli kebap, and terbiyeli kuzu şiş, and they were all separately delightful. The Ali Nazik came with a bed of haşhaş kebabı (a kebab style hailing from Urfa) lying innocently on top of a sea of chargrilled eggplant, yogurt, and garlic mix. The sebzeli kebap, which is a specialty of ZerafEt (to be honest, pretty much all we had here tasted like a specialty), is supposed to be eaten wrapped in the soft and hot lavaş bread. All the mains were the I-can’t-help-but-go-for-another-bite kind, but the winner for me was the terbiyeli kuzu şiş simply because of the silky smooth meat. Cutting the meat was like drawing a tulle curtain. Absolute must-have for spicy food lovers!

Although we were quite full by the end of our meal, I for a fact knew that I couldn’t leave ZerafEt without trying katmer. On a separate but important note, the restaurant feels nothing like a typical kebab eatery: the décor is quite modern featuring pink, brown, and white; the venue smells of flowers not meat; lots of sunlight comes through the floor-to-ceiling windows that show off the green garden; and the soft instrumental music just adds that final touch. The wait staff, it must be noted, adds a few stars to this establishment with their knowledge, eagerness to help, and sincerity.

Now, back to the katmer. This mouse-pad sized, square Antep specialty is a heavenly dessert that is made of very thin baklava dough, kaymak (Turkish clotted cream), covered with a generous bed of crumbled pistachios, and served with vanilla ice-cream.

Finishing this meal is like the reading the last pages of a great novel, except that you can revisit it any time you want and my take is that every time will feel like the first.

ZerafEt, Adnan Saygun Caddesi Leylah Apartmanı No.1 14/B, Ulus; P: (0212) 352 60 75

Andrew Barton: Final Frontier

“A dystopian future of possible religious conflict in the heavens” is the subject of sculptor Andrew Barton’s show at Nişantaşı’s SODA, Final Frontier (Son Bilinmeyen in Turkish), whose title recalls the opening credits of the television program Star Trek. Pop culture normally takes for granted the notion of humanity united against the perils of outer space; the sculptures in Final Frontier, by contrast, present the ironic spectable of space helmets custom-tailored to the three major monotheistic religions of Europe and the Middle East: Judaism, Christianity, and Islam. Drawing on a host of imagery, from Crusader helmets to the Islamic niqab to Hasidic Jewish attire, Barton suggests that an end to humanity’s internecine quarrels is nowhere in sight.

When: March 1 – April 14

Where: SODA; Şakayık Sokak No. 37/1, Nişantaşı; P: (0212) 231 89 88

Federico Severino: Sculptures

Italian sculptor Federico Severino is well-known in his native Italy, where his artwork is on display at many churches and basilicas, including the Pantheon in Rome, and the Cathedral of his native Brescia. Severino’s work – which was briefly exhibited at Galeri Selvin’s stand at Contemporary Istanbul this past November – now comes to Galeri Selvin for a month-long show. Severino’s bronze sculptures at times imitate the conventions of Graeco-Roman art (Piccole Grazie and Silenzio), while the entwining bodies in his “Amanti nella tempesta” or “Amanti nella finestra” – or the Minotaur’s erotic pursuit of Ariadne in his “Minotauro che insegue Arianna” – recall works like Bernini’s “Apollo and Daphne,” and “Rape of Proserpina.”

When: March 20 – April 15

Where: Galeri Selvin; Dere Sokak No. 3, Arnavutköy; P: (0212) 263 74 81

Mona Hatoum: You Are Still Here

You Are Still Here, by Mona Hatoum, is the first solo show in Istanbul by this Palestinian/Lebanese artist, who works in a wide variety of media including installations, sculpture, video, photography and works on paper. The pieces in You Are Still Here (curated by Emre Baykal), as often with Hatoum, consist of everyday objects with sinister overtones, such as 1993’s “Jardin Public,” a slightly crooked chair made out of “painted wrought iron, wax, and pubic hair,” or 1996’s “Deep Throat,” in which a dinner plate doubles as an endoscope. Hatoum’s more recent, post-September 11 works are even more unsettling: a bench or bed in the shape of a cheese grater (2008’s “Daybed”), or an apparently electrified rug whose strands end in light bulbs (2008’s “Undercurrent”). This show at Beyoğlu’s Arter, representing two decades of Hatoum’s work, should not be missed.

When: March 17 – May 27

Where: Arter; İstiklal Caddesi No. 211, Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 243 37 67

Ebru Özseçen: True Love Soul Mate

Munich-based Turkish artist Ebru Özseçen’s exhibition Gerçek Aşk Gönül Eşi (True Love Soul Mate), at Akaretler’s Rampa, contains works from three periods. The earliest, 1997’s Toplar (Balls), consists of a series of balls and pendants hanging from a chandelier, and was photographed at a London antiques store; this motif would later figure in other works by Özseçen, such as Şeker Avize (Sugar Chandelier), which was exhibited at the 6th Istanbul Biennial in 1999. Kısmet (Destiny), created in the following decade, was likewise inspired by another of the artist’s finds, this time in an antiques store in Amsterdam: an ivory lantern filled with beans, from which a French countess allegedly would select one every night as a way of choosing her lover. Özşecen’s own work consists of a keyhole-shaped piece of ivory filled with a bull’s testicle. Finally, 2011’s Gerçek Aşk Gönül Eşi (True Love Soul Mate), from which the show as a whole takes its name, is made up of more than a hundred pieces of hand-crafted glass, made with the assistance of the renowned glass studios Mayer of Munich and Glasshütte Lamberts.

Explaining the title of the exhibition, Özseçen has said, “the concept of ‘true love, soul mate’ employed in the title should be sought, not in the realm of romantic love, but in the friendship and companionship alluded to by the craftsman’s tender treatment of the objects to which he lovingly devotes himself.”

When: March 2 – April 7

Where: Rampa; Şair Nedim Caddesi No:21A, Akaretler; P: (0212) 327 08 00

Unlike other European cities, where room sharing and apartment buying are eased by numerous comprehensive search websites, Istanbul doesn’t offer too many well-known search options. Nevertheless, finding an apartment is possible for foreigners, as demonstrated by the large number of expatriates moving to the city and successfully building new lives for themselves. Whether you’re traveling alone and looking for the excitement of a bustling neighborhood, or settling down with a family and seeking neighborhoods that are safe and convenient, Istanbul has something to offer.

The following is a List of Resources that will lead you to your new home:

Personal recommendations:For the single traveler, the most common resource for finding a room is through other expats. Many expats have, during their time living in Istanbul, developed an extensive network of friends, acquaintances, and previous roommates. Within your personal network, scour for friends or friends of friends living in Istanbul and ask if they know of someone with an available room. Another option is to contact a language school in Istanbul, where many expats work as English teachers. They may be able to provide helpful advice.

Craigslist:If personal contacts lead nowhere, the next best option is to search Craigslist, which is also a resourceful website for families. While Craigslist is not as common in Istanbul as it is in American or European cities, the website does offer surprisingly good results for apartment searches in Istanbul. You can either respond to apartment listings or create your own posting to find your perfect dwelling in Istanbul. A self-made posting for a room in Kadıköy recently led this author to over 20 responses with senders’ descriptions of their available rooms.

Real estate websites:For families looking for an apartment, real estate websites are the best bet. Hürriyet Emlak, for instance, lists homes and apartments for rent and sale all throughout the city. With English and Turkish options, Hürriyet Emlakand Sahibinden allow you to refine your search by selecting your apartment criteria.

Now that you have several apartment-hunting resources at your hands, Where Should You Live? As the only city in the world spanning two continents, Istanbul presents several options for expats but budgetary restrictions, spatial preferences, as well as a need for mobility in a city notorious for its traffic, will narrow one’s neighborhood options down quite a bit.

Before walking around Istanbul’s many neighborhoods,helpful may be an understanding of the country’s geographical organization. Turkey is divided intoprovinces called il, which are further divided into “cities” called ilçe. Ilçe’s are then divided into districts called semt. (For anyone familiar with New York City, the city of New York would be an il, the five boroughs would be ilçe’s, and Astoria and Jackson Heights semt’s.) While we often consider Istanbul a city, it is technically an il, and its various neighborhoods Beşiktaş, Beyoğlu, Eminönü, and Kadıköy ilçe’s. The semt’s of Istanbul would be Cihangir, Levent, Nişantaşı, Galatasaray, and Etiler. (Note that sometimes the names of ilçe’s and semt’s can overlap, like in Beşiktaş and Kadıköy.) The neighborhoods of Istanbul—both ilçe’s and semt’s—are extraordinarily diverse, not only in their history and architecture but also in their local activities and pace of life. In the list below, you will find the neighborhoods most popular among Istanbul’s expats.

Beşiktaş:Populated by both students and families, Beşiktaş is a bustling and central neighborhood with great access to public transportation. It is close to many Boshprous neighborhoods (like Bebek, Arnavutköy, and Ortaköy) as well as Nişantaşı and Beyoğlu. Chaos floods the streets, which are also lined with tacky restaurants and shops. But in the neighborhood’s chaos many foreign residents have found, in addition to low-priced apartments, a certain charm. Buildings are generally new, offering renovated rooms with large windows and wide space.

Galata:Once a quiet neighborhood with artisan shops, Galata has since undergone gentrification, leading to a steep hike in rental rates. Still, expats flock here for its history and beauty. Several art galleries have also popped up in recent years, leading to a vibrant art scene. In Galata, residents are close to Istanbul’s nightlife in the nearby Şişhane neighborhood, Asmalımescit, and Tünel, and the greater İstiklal Caddesi surrounds. Galata's history is reflected in old buildings with ornate wall moldings, wooden flooring, and chandeliers. Rooms are also spacious with high ceilings and great wall-to-wall width. Even though you won't find supermarkets around Galata, the small markets will offer a variety of expat-friendly products, like lime and coconut milk. Due to its proximity to public transportation (especially the subway line), this area serves as a practical area for those without a car. Keep in mind, however, that the area is quite hilly.

Cihangir:Similar to Galata, Cihangir is a popular destination for Istanbul’s art set. Quiet and residential with sometimes stunning views of the sea, Cihangir has attracted some of Istanbul’s most well-known artists, including soap opera stars, novelists, and painters. But expats, too, have called Cihangir home, leading to an interesting mix of crowds in local restaurants and bars. While Cihangir has long undergone gentrification and therefore seen some very high rents, with the right amount of luck one can find a good deal in this area. And if you’re really lucky, you may even find an apartment in a historical building with seaside windows and balconies offering stunning views. Even if you can't, the bustling social scene, the great restaurants, and the proximity to Taksim Square will be enough.

Kadıköy:Quieter and slower in pace, Kadıköy is often seen as a break from the chaotic European side. Though largely residential, small cafes and restaurants lining the neighborhood streets give some feeling of bustle to this Asian Side neighborhood. With apartments at low rental rates and diverse offerings in room size—many with great wall-to-wall and floor-to-ceiling space—Kadıköy is certainly the neighborhood that gives residents the most bang for their buck. Apartments with front- and back-side gardens add to residents’ feeling of living in a quainter, more residential Istanbul. The area is very close to ferry stops and other public transport, which makes it quite easy to access the rest of Istanbul.

Etiler:Etiler is one of Istanbul’s most modern neighborhoods, boasting the perks of many Western cities with its malls, sports clubs, and modern apartment buildings. For this reason, Etiler is also one of the priciest areas to live in. Situated close to Levent, Istanbul’s business district, Etiler makes itself a sensible option for anyone on business in Istanbul. The area’s new apartment buildings offer its residents large spaces and the proximity to a wide variety of restaurants and businesses.

Zekeriyaköy:A quiet and greener area located on Istanbul’s northern seacoast, Zekeriyaköy makes itself a great location for anyone seeking a more suburban-like environment. With the arrival of modern villas next to the old town, Zekeriyaköy has become home to both celebrities and well-known businessmen alike. Several popular restaurants, including Fincan and Tike, in addition to a weekly bazaar selling local produce, can be found in Zekeriyaköy. With its spacious rooms and picturesque scenery, Zekeriyaköy’s primeness will certainly show in its housing prices.

Kemerburgaz: Located approximately 30 minutes away from central Istanbul, Kemerburgaz is Istanbul’s first neighborhood with an American suburbia-like environment. After the establishment of Kemer Country (the first of the many modern suburban complexes in Kemerburgaz) in the early 2000s, the area has grown and turned into a full-blown suburban town with a wide range of cafes, restaurants, and sports facilities that makes Kemer a self-sufficient and highly attractive area, especially for young families.

Pricing

In all the neighborhoods on our list, you can expect to find a two-bedroom apartment for rent for approximately 2,000TL (plus or minus 500 TL). The quality of the apartment for this price, however, will differ greatly from one neighborhood to another. For example, a 2,000TL apartment in Galata is highly likely to be quite small and old, whereas the same price will get you a clean, modern, and spacious apartment in Beşiktaş or Kadıköy. In most neighborhoods (especially Cihangir, Galata, Etiler, and Kemerburgaz), you’ll witness prices skyrocket when a fantastic view is included in the apartment, and you’ll see the pricing change from TL to Euro or Dollar.

Istanbul’s one and only upscale tradesmen’s restaurant Hünkar introduced a tasting menu in their Nişantaşı branch a few weeks ago for those who want to get introduced to Turkish cuisine. The menu is made up of must-try dishes for tourists who want to familiarize themselves with what Turkish cuisine is about. And with this tasting menu they will learn, if they haven’t done so yet, that Turkish cuisine has a lot more to offer than just meat and kebab.

The Tasting Menu:

Soup

Mix Meze Platter (lentil balls, spinach root, spicy salad, smoked eggplant salad, fava beans, octopus carpaccio)

Pastry Plate (puff pastry, mini Turkish ravioli)

Grilled Meatballs (with rice and grilled tomato and pepper)

Stewed Watercress

Hünkar Beğendi (smoked eggplant puree topped with lamb or beef)

Dessert (semolina helvah, bread dessert, milk pudding with mastic)

Tea & Coffee

The tasting menu starts off with a bowl of soup - yayla çorbası (yogurt-based soup with rice and mint) or mercimek çorbası (lentil soup). On our visit, we had the yayla çorbası, which came with a dollop of yogurt on top and spurts of chickpeas, which added that little extra touch. Even though paça çorbası (leg of lamb soup) is a very Turkish soup, it’s not part of the tasting menu because it’s a bit too adventurous, especially for those who are novices to Turkish cuisine.

Following the soup, the mix meze platter includes a nice variety that is representative of what Turkish cuisine is about. There is an eggplant dish simply because eggplant in Turkey tastes fantastic and any visitor should have the privilege to taste it. The acılı ezme (roughly translated as spicy salad on the tasting menu) is representative of all that is spicy in Turkish cuisine. (Those who are not used to spicy foods should steer clear from this spicy paste!) The spinach root in the platter serves as a very delicious example of all the light and healthy vegetarian dishes in Turkish cuisine. The mercimek köftesi (lentil balls) is a local specialty of the Southeast region and represents the wide variety of regional differences that Turkish cuisine offers. Oh, and it’s also very delicious! The fava beans is a specialty of Hünkar and in fact was chosen number 13 in the list of “25 Great Dishes You Must Have Before you Go” by Papercity Magazine. Last but not least, the octopus carpaccio in the meze platter is a fine example of the delicious seafood that Turkey is famous for.

Carb-lovers will be especially thrilled by the pastry platter that follows the mix meze platter. The highlight of this pastry platter is definitely the mantı (Turkish ravioli) - it is one of the best that you can have in Istanbul, so enjoy it! Once you’re done with the pastry platter and have savored the meatballs, the watercress will serve as the sorbet in gourmet tasting menus - something to clear the palate before the next meat dish is served. Hünkar Beğendi (smoked eggplant puree topped with lamb or beef) that follows is a classic in Turkish cuisine, and is very well done at Hünkar. Finally, the dessert platter comes. You’ll probably be quite full by this time but won’t be able to resist the urge to try these delicious Turkish desserts. The highlight of this platter is the irmik helvası (semolina helvah), which is made slightly differently at Hünkar with the addition of milk and a secret ingredient that turns this dessert into creamy perfection.

So, whether you’re a tourist wanting to become familiar with Turkish cuisine or a local who just wants to eat a variety of really good dishes, we strongly suggest you give the tasting menu at Hünkar a try.

Hünkar, Mim Kemal Öke Caddesi No. 21, Nişantaşı; P: (0212) 225 46 65

So…you’re an interior designer.

Yes. I graduated from the Interior & Spatial Design program of Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design in London, and came back to Istanbul to start working right away. I worked at Habif Mimarlık for five years, and recently quit to start my own business JK Mimarlık.

Tell us about JK Mimarlık a bit.

After working at Habif Mimarlık for 5 years (and I have to stay this experience was much like a continuing studies), it was quite an emotional journey to decide to quit and open my own space. I am grateful for my experience at Habif Mimarlık and proud to feel their support. At the same time, I’m very excited about my own company in which I take on new projects and challenges every day, from designing a small store in Osmanbey or a two-bedroom apartment in Ulus to a massive mansion or beauty salon.

What kinds of projects do you work on?

The majority of my past projects have been to design offices, stores, and apartments. However, in the past two years, I have taken on larger projects, doing the interior design and decoration of mansions (köşk) and waterfront houses (yalı).

Can you tell us about the 3D system that you use?

I learned about the 3D system through my colleague M. Pirhan Avşaroğlu. Basically, the system allows you to turn the highly technical 2D drawings into picture-like 3D images. These images allow the customer to get a clearer sense of what the place in question will look like.

What’s your understanding of interior design? What do you try to create in your work?

It’s really hard to describe but if I were to boil it down to a few words I’d say that my main goal is to create warm, cozy places that are livable rather than theatrical. My understanding of design is based on merging technology with the aesthetics of the past, taking advantage of a range of materials and using them efficiently.

What kinds of materials and colors do you prefer?

Natural materials like stone and wood. I often use earth tones with spurts of color (like a colored couch on an otherwise neutral room).

Have you always dreamed about becoming an interior designer?

I was interested in art since primary school, and what started as a passion for painting in my teens later became a drive to create beautiful spaces. This urge to create, to turn my dreams into reality, makes my life more enjoyable, and I can’t think about doing anything else but this.

Where do you get your inspiration from?

My inspiration comes from the venue itself – I first get to know the place and try to understand its relationship with its surroundings. I start to imagine the venue without any limitations. After taking into account the needs of the venue’s owner, I begin the process of designing and constructing a reality out of my dreams.

Does Istanbul serve as a source of inspiration?

I consider it a luxury to be an interior designer in Istanbul - living in such a cosmopolitan city with a patchwork history is inspirational in and of itself. I don’t necessarily go to a specific neighborhood or area to get inspired - I am thrilled by the idea that I never know what expects me in Istanbul.

Architecturally speaking - which parts of Istanbul do you like the most?

Yeniköy, Arnavutköy, Çengelköy, Beyoğlu, Galata, Topkapı. Because these neighborhoods are either located by the water and/or have great historical character.

Which buildings or venues do you like the most?

The building that Stanton Williams designed for University Arts London Central Saint Martins and the Taşkışla building of the ITU architecture department continues to amaze me every time I pass by it. I also really like 11 11 Lincoln in Miami.

What are the details that strike you most when you enter a venue for the first time?

The lighting, how the space has been used, the choice of materials and the combination of those materials.

Can you name some Turkish architects or architectural offices that you like?

Autoban, Habif Mimarlık, and Arolat Mimarlık , to name a few.

Joyce’s Istanbul

What you love most about Istanbul: I like how the city is sometimes so mysterious and surprising, and sometimes so predictable.

What you missed the most about Istanbul during your time abroad: The energy of the city.

Favorite spot for business dinners:Park Şamdan

After-work nibbles and drinks:Beymen Brasserie

Dancing:Bird

Romantic spot:Mimolette

Favorite place to hang out with friends:Delicatessen

Getaway from Istanbul:Güral Sapanca Wellness and Convention

Favorite Turkish tavern: Münferit

Favorite bar:Biber

Favorite breakfast/brunch venue: Backyard

Lunch:Delicatessen

Dinner:Kahraman

Favorite place to enjoy the amazing views of Istanbul:Müzedechanga and Sunset

Joyce Kohen can be contacted at joyce@jkmimarlik.com.

The Sheraton Istanbul Ataköy is now offering a happy hour on weekdays at their Trendy Lounge bar. Available on weekdays from 5:00 to 7:00 p.m., all food and drink at the bar are half-price. So next time you’re looking for a place to meet up for after-work drinks, why not hit the Trendy Lounge for some tasty drinks and snacks that won’t break the bank?Sheraton Istanbul Ataköy Sahil Yolu Caddesi Ataköy; P: (0212) 413 06 00

3 Maymun at Arkoada:3 maymun means 3 monkeys, and this shot carries a kind of urban legend status. It was created in 1999 by the Arkaoda bartender Deniz Özüer. The ingredients are kept confidential but we know that there’ll be lots of burning in the throat. If you’re ready for what lies ahead, go for it!

Flatliner Shot at Bird:Even the name scares us. It’s made with tequila (reposado), sambuca (Italian liqueur), and 3 drops of Tabasco.

Sakızlı Vodka at Kiki:This shot translates as mastic vodka, and is made with mastic and absolute vanilla. If you have a sweet tooth, give it a try.

Orman Cini at Parantez: Roughly translated as the genie of the forest, this shot is made with rum, fresh green apple juice, and cinnamon. The rim of the glass is lined with cinnamon and is served with a slice of green apple.Be careful, it’s too yummy to stop drinking.

Gelincik Shot at Küçük Otto: Corn poppy sauce, lime, and vodka. Yum! (We know the article is titled 5 Bars, 5 Shots but here are two more from Küçük Otto: Sakız Shot, made with mastic, milk, and vodka, and Kiss my Otto, made with cinnamon, orange juice, lime, and vodka.)

Arkaoda, Kadife Sokak No. 18/A, Kadıköy; P: (0216) 418 02 77

Bird, Meşrutiyet Caddesi No. 103, Şişhane; P: (0212) 245 70 85

Kiki, Sıraselviler Caddesi No:42, Cihangir; P: (0212) 243 53 73

Parantez, Asmalımescit Mahallesi Sofyalı Jurnal Sokak No. 1, Asmalımescit; P: (0212) 245 75 13

Küçük Otto, Asmalımescit Mahallesi Şehbender Sokak No. 5/1, Asmalımescit; P: (0212) 292 70 15

Gezi Hotel Bosphorus is a lifestyle boutique hotel that benefits from centrality (while at the same time being far enough from Taksim Square to afford a quiet retreat) and wonderful views (of the Bosphorus, the Taksim Gezi Parkı, and the hotel’s garden).

The hotel has 63 rooms and three suites, and a two-story loft (featuring a state-of-the-art lounge area and a jacuzzi overlooking the Bosphorus view), which is very well worth the splurge. When I stayed at Gezi Hotel Bosphorus last week, I preferred a room with a park view. You may wonder why anyone would go for the park view when there is the Bosphorus. Well, there is no discussion about the magnificence of the Bosphorus, but a park view is something very rare in Istanbul. Kind of like eating peaches in winter.

When I took a first look at the park from the room, I had a flashback of Hyde Park in Sydney. In all honesty, Gezi Parkı is not as big or green as Hyde Park, but it generates a similarly soothing feeling. And what makes the view much more appealing is the sedir (couch-like puffy seating by the window), which is featured in each room of the hotel. This ingenious addition by Sinan Kafadar, the architect who designed the entire hotel, is only one example of the kind of small details that turn Gezi Bosphorus into a cozy home-like place to stay.

Another such example is the touch-operated bedside lamp in each room. You just touch the tiny screen-like square on the lamp to turn on, turn off, or dim the light in the room. The air conditioner in the rooms is not just an ordinary air conditioner but one that can even adjust the humidity in the room. All sheets are satin, TV channels can be customized on request (for example, to include channels only in a specific language), and there are Molton Brown products in the bathrooms.

And if you want to max on sensuous experiences, you can take the elevator down to Silver Spa where you can enjoy a Turkish bath, break a sweat at the steam room or the sauna, or get pampered at one of the spa treatments. The spa menu is quite extensive, ranging from hot-stone therapy, shiatsu massage, and Thai massage to skin renewal booster treatment, deeply cleansing facial treatment, and power recovery body treatment.

I opted for the Turkish bath and got to be scrubbed off with a mitt and massaged with bubbles for nearly an hour. The hamam rituals come highly recommended not only because they are ultra relaxing and leave your entire body soft as a baby’s bottom, but also because Silver Spa’s hamam is the ideal mix of the traditional and the modern: you’ve got your classic hamam look amplified with star-like little lights on the ceiling for the ultimate relaxing experience.

And you’ll probably need that kind of relaxation if you’re one of the many businesspeople who choose to stay at Gezi Hotel Bosphorus. The hotel’s conference rooms are a delight for such guests – they are so neat, organized, functional, and elegant that they give you that enthusiasm kids get when they buy brand new pencils and notebooks for the new school year.

Whether you’re in Istanbul for business or pleasure, rest assured that staying at Gezi Hotel Bosphorus will feel like staying at your home away from home. I personally didn’t want to leave my room when it was time for check out. Can’t imagine what the guests who stay at the loft feel when it’s time to leave.

Gezi Hotel Bosphorus, Mete Caddesi No. 34, Taksim; P: (0212) 393 27 00

The aim of Van Gogh Alive, at Antrepo 3 in Tophane, is to shake us out of such complacency. In this dark, cavernous space (the venue for last year’s 12th Istanbul Biennial, along with neighboring Antrepo 5), 3,000 images created from 1,000 Van Gogh works (paintings, watercolors, and drawings) are projected onto the four walls, columns, and floor through a system of 40 HD projectors known as Sensory 4. Seeing these works (or portions of them) on screens nearly 25 feet high not only is a startling experience, but also allows you to focus in great detail on paintings you may have only seen before in miniature on the pages of an art history textbook. A classical soundtrack runs in sync with the projected images, with pieces by Handel, Lalo, Saint-Saëns, Arvo Pärt, and more, in addition to traditional Japanese koto music.

The works featured in Van Gogh Alive date from 1880 to 1890 (effectively the entire career of this late-blooming and short-lived artist), and are grouped into three symphonic “movements”: Van Gogh’s early period in the Netherlands (until 1886), his Parisian years (1886-8), and his final years in the South of France, where he made his best-known paintings. You’ll see old favorites like “Vincent’s Bedroom in Arles,” “Self-portrait with Bandaged Ear,” “Portrait of Dr. Gachet,” “Starry Night,” and more; unless you are a Van Gogh expert, there are also sure to be paintings you haven’t seen before, and one startling image that you never would have guessed was by Van Gogh – see if you can spot it.

In addition to Van Gogh’s artworks, there are brief animation sequences relating to events in the artist’s life, copies of his handwritten letters, and screens with quotations in Turkish offering Van Gogh’s thoughts on his life and career. (Not providing English subtitles for these quotes was the one oversight in an otherwise excellent show). The artworks themselves are not always projected statically: there are details superimposed as you watch (thus mimicking the process of painting a new work), zoom-ins and zoom-outs, fade-outs, and other cinematic tricks – think animated film rather than slide show.

With Van Gogh’s works surrounding you in all directions, and no two areas of the exhibition hall showing the exact same images at the same time, it’s impossible to “do” Van Gogh Alive – to start at the beginning and workyour way through to the end. There is no path to follow, much less the strictly regulated senso unico of a place like the Vatican Musem: you are free to stay put, or wander around at will. (Many of the audience members at Van Gogh Alive chose to watch the show while sitting on the floor, a sight one doesn’t often see in Turkey). The experience of watching Van Gogh Alive is a bit like attending a cocktail party in a movie theater – a very large movie theater to be sure (this is, after all, the place where the reviewer got lost at the Istanbul Biennial last year).

Van Gogh’s paintings become “alive” at this show in the best sense of the word, refusing to lie down, be nailed down, or be neatly filed away and catalogued. Just as you can never hope to overhear every word spoken in a crowded room, or capture every nuance of a conversation, or parse every line of dialogue in a live performance of a play, so a visitor to Van Gogh Alive shouldn’t try to view every image in this 360-degree son et lumière, where the pictures come thick and fast. (You should of course see the whole show – which is about 45 minutes long – at least once in its entirety: unlike a movie theater, Antrepo 3 won’t kick you out at the end of each screening). Needless to say, the reviewer saw many audience members taking photos and/or videos of Van Gogh Alive with their cell phones, cameras, and iPads, an unfortunate symptom of our present-day belief that an experience has not truly taken place until it has been digitally recorded.

The one potential danger of a show of this sort is that it will up the technological ante for exhibitions of other artists’ works, leading to a demand for Rembrandt Alive, Monet Alive, and Cézanne Alive, and a corresponding indifference to Rembrandt, Monet, and Cézanne. Such a theoretical concern should not deter you, however, from attending this striking and original show, a visit to which is highly recommended.

Van Gogh Alive is designed by Grande Exhibitions Australia, with the participation of Turkish pharmaceutical company Abdi İbrahim, celebrating its 100th anniversary this year.

Antrepo 3, Meclis-i Mebusan Caddesi Liman İşletmeleri Sahası, Tophane

Eight months ago, Bora decided to open this quirky store in Galata on Serdar-ı Ekrem Sokak. It’s very easy to miss because it’s located underground, right below a butcher. As you go down the red narrow stairs between leather jackets and funky coats, you may feel like you’re about to enter some sort of wonderland or the cave of a wild animal. You probably won’t anticipate walking into untamed creativity sprinkled with lots of imagination, taste, and style. Oh, and the sweet taste of random strangers' memories.

You may not be the second-hand-clothing kind of person, but if any store will convert you, it is certainly Atölye dö Bora. Even if you have no intentions of being converted, I strongly suggest you check this store out just to get your creative juices flowing. This dimly-lit, out-of-a-movie-scene kind of retro store is the kind of place where you may choose to place the climax of your next novel. It has that magic where the past molds into the present. Only with a very stylish promise of the future.

OK. Let’s get into the logistics a bit.

On the left by the entrance is the small but very well-chosen men’s section, mainly filled with outerwear. Bora is also a men’s stylist so his men’s collection is quite ambitious. Ideal for men who want to make their mark with their sense of style.

The rest of the store is dedicated to women’s clothing: dresses, skirts, outerwear, tops, glasses, shoes, bags, all neatly stacked into their own section. The store does require serious investigation skills but rest assured that your search will be rewarding because you’ll come out of it with some great finds.

That’s because Bora is very specific about what he sells, he doesn’t just throw in whatever he finds. Did I mention that Bora opened the first second-hand store in Ankara called Junk Second Hand in 1998? The store is no longer around but it sure was a phenomenon when it was. So, in the past 15 years or so Bora has become the person who knows people in the world of second-hand-clothes-hunting in Berlin, London, and Paris. His collection includes nothing too theatrical but generally wearable retro style. Plus, the majority of the collection is in fairly good condition; there are some that even look brand new. Except for the now-antique 1920s dress. It’s pretty, but you probably wouldn’t wear it.

Now, the deal with haircutting. Let’s get one thing clear: Bora is a hair designer not a hairdresser. He’s been in the business – it’s slightly weird calling this a business, it’s more like his calling - for three years. He’s quite specific though – he only cuts short hair (like really short, possibly nothing below the shoulders). He’s very ambitious with blunt and bob cuts, and adding volume to dull-looking hair. If you’re ready to funkify your hair, Bora is who you’ve been searching for. Serdar-ı Ekrem Sokak, No. 8/A, Galata; P: (0212) 243 08 12

Get an idea of what Bora is about:

Delicco imports its fresh salmon from Norway, and makes smoked salmon in the following varieties: Traditional Smoked Salmon, Emperor Cut Loin, Gravlax, and Superior Extra Smoked. 1-kilo bags as well as 100- and 250-gram packages of nearly all the above are available for in-store purchase or delivery. Delicco also makes smoked halibut, eel, swordfish, mackerel, horse mackerel/bonito, and trout upon request.

Orders can be placed by phone at (0542) 475 5889, or by sending an email to the Shipmans at the following address: dilistan.shipman@delicco.com

Delicco, Ünalan Mahallesi Aşık Şenlik Sokak (Eski adı ile Selvi Sokak) 33B, Üsküdar; P: (0216) 470 95 05

Çiroz

Çiroz is the Turkish word for mackerel that has been cured in salt, hung and dried, and marinated in vinegar. Served topped with fresh dill, it’s best purchased from Bebek Balık Evi in Bebek, or from Reşat Balık Market in the Galatasaray Balık Pazarı (Fish Market).

Lakerda

Lakerda, the so-called “Turkish sushi,” is made from bonito fish (a member of the tuna family), and is prepared through a lengthy curing process. It’s typically served as an appetizer with copious amounts of lemon juice and olive oil; The Guide recommends buying it from Bebek Balık Evi or Reşat Balık Market.

Caviar

This delicacy consisting of sturgeon roe has become a cliché for expensive, rarefied taste in food (as in the Shakespearean expression “caviar to the general.”) It’s delicious all the same. Caviar from Iran – in beluga and asietra varieties – can be purchased at Şütte in Etiler.

Bottarga

Bottarga, often known as the “poor man’s caviar” (being four times less expensive than the most affordable form of caviar) consists of the salted, dried, and cured eggs of the mullet fish, which have been coated in beeswax as a preservative. The Guide recommends you purchase this product at Reşat Balık Market.

Smoked salmon

No prizes for guessing what somon means in Turkish. While it may be difficult to find authentic lox (cured salmon) in Istanbul, expatriate New Yorkers can take consolation in the fact that the smoked salmon at Delicco in Üsküdar is very good. Bagels and cream cheese are optional.

Balıkev

A large, modern shopping mall is probably not the first place you’d expect to find a fish market. Nonetheless, at Balıkevin the İstinyePark shopping mall, you can buy your own fish, have it cooked for you on the spot to take home, or eat at Balıkev’s restaurant, which offers a number of unique dishes including salmon döner.

Balık Pazarı

If you still can’t make up your mind what kind of fish to try, just browse the stalls at the Balık Pazarı (fish market) next to Çiçek Pasajı, listen to the fishmongers advertising their wares, and pick whatever strikes your fancy. All kinds of seasonal fish are available here daily.

Bebek Balık Evi, Cevdetpaşa Caddesi No. 226, Bebek; P: (0212) 265 05 36

Reşat Balık Market, Sahne Sok. Balık Pazarı No:30, Galatasaray; P: (0212) 293 60 91

Şütte, Nispetiye Caddesi No. 114/A, Etiler; P: (0212) 263 66 56

Delicco, Ünalan Mahallesi Aşık Şenlik Sokak (Selvi Sokak) No.33B; P: (0542) 475 58 89

Balıkev, İstinyePark Shopping Mall, İstinye Bayırı Caddesi No. 73, İstinye; P: (0212) 345 57 74

Balık pazarı, Sahne Sokak, Galatasaray

Since 2008, the Hodjapasha Culture Center in Sirkeci has offered regular performances of both these dances, and more. The Center is located in a hamam built by Hoca Sinan Paşa, the vizier of Mehmet the Conqueror; constructed in 1470, it is one of the oldest in the city, but fell into disuse several decades ago. What used to be the women’s section of the hamam is now the Center’s exhibition hall, with information panels about the different styles of Anatolian dance. The former men’s section hosts the actual performances, which come in two varieties: a sema performance as well as a Turkish Dance Show. We opted to attend the latter, reasoning that this would be the best way to learn about the range of different Turkish dance forms.

The Turkish Dance Show is indeed a smorgasbord of different dances. Accompanied by a group of live musicians playing the saz, davul, fiddle, garmon (accordion), bass guitar, tambourine, and other instruments, a team of dancers performs a dozen different dances – solo, in pairs, in single-sex and mixed ensemble – from the different parts of Anatolia and the former Ottoman Empire. Here you can see little-known native Anatolian dances such as the misket (from Central Anatolia), the halay (from Eastern Turkey), and the zeybek (from the Aegean); dances that shade off into dramatic performances (such as the Henna Night number from Elazığ, simulating a Turkish bride’s pre-wedding preparations); dances from the Balkans, from the Black Sea region of Turkey, and from Azerbaijan; gypsy dancing from Turkish Thrace; and of course, plenty of belly dancing (both solo and in ensemble) with a surprising twist or two.

The stage in this small, domed space is circular (resembling the stone massage platform called the göbek taşı which was formerly found in the hamam). The audience sits in rows surrounding the stage, with less than two feet between the front row and the edge of the stage (and the dancers), creating an absolute minimum of distance between performer and audience. Given these constaints, the range of motion found in these dances is necessarily restrained (don’t expect somersaults in the air) but the dances are lively, and are skillfully executed. Each dance features its own unique costume, from red flounced Gypsy skirts, to Balkan tunics and puttees, to the riding boots worn by the broad-striding male member of the “Azerbaijani” duo (which the reviewer at first took to be a Cossack dance).

Highlights of this diverse performance included a “Shaman dance” by a solo female dancer dressed in a long white robe, who supplied a periodic cadence to her flowing dance movements by falling backwards onto the ground. In the dark, with fluorescent highlights on her robe, the dancer appeared to be collapsing – or vanishing – into a heap of clothes. If audience response is anything to go on, one of the most successful performers was the solo female belly dancer, who seemed able to manipulate every individual muscle fiber in her torso, and drew great applause (and a few good-humored wolf whistles). The loudest applause of the evening, however, was won by the male belly dancer, who despite his larger frame was nearly a match for his female colleague in suppleness and flexibility, and who – surprisingly – performed with a full beard.

Those seeking indoor entertainment while the weather is still cold could do far worse than attend the Hodjapasha Turkish Dance Show, which affords a good opportunity to learn about the local dance traditions of Turkey and the surrounding regions.

Hodjapasha Culture Center, Ankara Caddesi Hocapaşa Hamam Sok No: 3.B, Sirkeci; P: (0212) 511 46 26 / 36

The New Italians in Town

Emporio Armani Ristorante: What used to be Armani Café in İstinyePark shopping mall turned into Emporio Armani Ristorante last month. We finally went and tried it last week, and it was an instant winner. The elegantly decorated restaurant has it all: an extensive menu featuring Italian classics, smooth music that’s conducive to enjoying a glass of wine, and an outdoor dining area perfect for the warm days ahead. On a typical day, you may come across businesspeople discussing serious projects over their secondi piatti, and ladies-who-lunch passing along the latest pilates trend over a cup of frothy cappuccino. Emporio Armani Ristorante is definitely a great choice while shopping at İstinyePark but it’s also a great destination whenever you crave scrumptious Italian food. İstinyePark Shopping Mall, Istinye Bayırı Caddesi No. 73, İstinye; P: (0212) 345 61 40

Morro:Morro, located just off İstiklal Caddesi, is a classic Italian restaurant that specializes in pizza. If you’re looking for an alternative to your usual pre-party dinner spot, Morro offers a wide selection of pizzas so there is something for everyone.Kumbaracı Yokuşu No.66, Tünel; P:(0212) 292 25 50

PiPa: PiPa opened up in Nişantaşı at the end of 2011. If you haven’t been there yet, definitely do check it out for the atmosphere – it has quite a unique décor, the diners are the stylish Nişantaşı crowd, and the wait staff is very friendly. But note that the food is overpriced for what it is. Süleyman Nazif Sokak Şebnem Apartmanı No.7/B, Nişantaşı; P: (0212) 225 74 72

Leon Trattoria/Pizzeria:Leon Trattoria/Pizzeria, located behind the Teşvikiye Camii, is a fairly small restaurant that carries an offbeat, low-key ambiance. If you’re looking for a reasonably priced Italian restaurant around Teşvikiye, do check out Leon Trattoria. Their pizzas can be hit or miss.Ahmet Fetgari Sokak No.40/A, Teşvikiye; P: (0212) 233 46 88

The Favorites

Antica Locanda:Antica Locanda is an impeccably-decorated venue offering top-quality Italian food in a warm and friendly setting. Located in a romantic cobble-stone street in Arnavutköy next to the Greek Orthodox Church in a small villa, Antica Locanda’s menu is not extensive, but all that is on offer is scrumptious. Make sure you enjoy your meal or at least post-meal coffee by the beautiful garden. Satış Meydanı No.12, Arnavutköy; P: (0212) 287 97 45

Papermoon:Located very conveniently by the entrance of the Akmerkez shopping mall in Etiler,Papermoonis known for its delicious food, cozy atmosphere, sleek and modern design, and meticulous service. The founding principle of Papermoon is to offer light, flavorful, and fresh Italian dishes with impeccable presentation. The venue boasts a very chic bar, which makes it an ideal spot for after-work drinks. It’s also a very popular spot for business dinners and lunches, as well as family dinners and special occasions.Adnan Saygun Caddesi, Akmerkez Residence Entrance Level, No. 224, Etiler; P: (0212) 282 16 16

Da Vittorio:Da Vittoriois a cozy and authentic Italian restaurant located in Tünel. Candles on each table, little flowers, black and white prints on the walls create a pleasant atmosphere. Certainly an excellent date venue.Meşrutiyet Caddesi No.70, Ansen Suites, Tünel; P: (0212) 245 88 17

Miss Pizza:The Cihangir branch of Miss Pizza is the meeting spot of Istanbul’s hipsters and artists. If you are looking for authentic Italian pizza with a variety of gourmet toppings, look no further. All pizzas are made fresh in the brick oven, with a delicious thin and crispy crust.Havyar Sokak No. 7, Cihangir; P: (0212) 251 32 78

Cipriani: The Istanbul branch of this famous New York restaurant received some bad reviews when it first opened in 2011, but Cipriani quickly pulled itself together, and even made it to TOP 7 Restaurant Hot Spots in The Guide Istanbul’s TOP 7 pocket guide. Levent Mahallesi Büyükdere Caddesi No. 2 The Edition Hotel, Levent; P: (0212) 317 77 87

Aqua:Bring together your love of Italian food with your love of the Bosphorus atAqua Restaurantlocated within Four Seasons Bosphorus. Enjoy Italian specialties while looking over the beautiful Bosphorus from the terrace.Four Seasons Istanbul Hotel at the Bosphorus, Çırağan Caddesi No. 28, Beşiktaş; P: (0212) 381 40 59

Piola: If you’re after true Italian pizza, Piola specializes in a variety of pizzas from the Treviso region (the menu also offers pasta, salads, and delectable desserts). Located within Point Hotel, this colorful restaurant is the second branch of this Treviso-based eatery. After you’re done with your meal, we suggest you go for a hot drink like "Cafe Cornetta" (Italian coffee with grappa). Point Hotel, Yıldız Posta Caddesi No. 29, Esentepe; P: (0212) 337 30 70

St. Vincent

Traveling back and forth between indie-rock and jazz, Annie Clark, better known by her stage name St. Vincent, recorded her first album Marry Me in 2007 together with Brian Teasley (The Polyphonic Spree) and David Bowie’s pianist Mike Garson. Her second album Actors had such great reviews (including from Bowie himself) that St. Vincent’s success was assured. St. Vincent now comes to Istanbul, ready to perform her songs, including some from her latest album, last year’s Strange Mercy.

When: February 21, 9:30 PM

Where: Salon IKSV, Sadi Konuralp Caddesi No:5, Şişhane; P: (0212) 334 07 00

How much: From the venue: 35 TL, 25 TL (students). From Biletix: 39.50 TL, 28 TL (students)

Rayko

The name behind “Broadway” – listed as the number one disco piece of 2011 by Juno – talented Spanish DJ and producer Rayko is at Küçük Otto on the 23^rd!

Influenced by 70’s and 80’s disco, electro funk and rock styles, Rayko founded his own label, named “Rare Wiri,” and has worked with A-list producers like Ilija Rudman, Ichisan, Phoreski, and Marbeya Sound. Rayko is known for digging up forgotten classics from his record bins, to create stellar sets that never disappoint his fans. But don’t take our word for it – come to Küçük Otto for a great night of music with DJ Rayko.

When: February 23, 11:00 PM

Where: Küçük Otto, Şehbender Sokak No. 5/1, Asmalımescit; P: (0212) 292 70 15

How much: Free

Selah Sue

Often compared to Amy Winehouse and Adele, Selah Sue is a young talent from Belgium inspired by artists such as Erykah Badu and Lauryn Hill. Her major breakthrough followed after her collaboration with Cee Lo Green on his album The Lady Killer, and soon she was performing and major international festivals such as Lowlands, Sziget, and the North Sea Jazz Festival. Selah Sue will now perform in Turkey for the first time as part of the Garanti Caz Yeşili concerts. Don’t miss out.

When: February 23, 9:30 PM

Where: Babylon, Seyhbender Sokak No: 3, Asmalımescit; P: (0212) 292 73 68

How much: From the venue: 80 TL, 50 TL (students). From Biletix: 88.50 TL; 66.50 TL

Aeroplane

Burn Energy drink’s Electronica Days continue, this time with the infamously smooth disco Belgian DJ Aeroplane (a.k.a. Vito de Luca). Aeroplane’s 80s disco / house mixes of pop songs have already been praised by such nightlife gurus as Erol Alkan, 2manyDJs, Yuksek and Brodinsky; following the release of his 2011 compilation album In Flight Entertainment, Aeroplane’s unique cosmic disco beats are now ready to shake up Istanbul’s nightlife...you don’t want to miss this opportunity to dance in space!

When: February 24, 11:00 PM

Where: Indigo, Akarsu/Acara Sokak, Tomtom Mahallesi; P: (0212) 244 85 67

How much: From Biletix: 34 TL

Take your first step into the world of wine with Kayra Wine Center’s workshop5 Adımda Şarap Tadımı(Wine Tasting in 5 Steps). In this two-hour workshop, you’ll learn about the look, smell, and taste of wine. You may end up with a new hobby or just have a great time tasting a variety of wine. Call (0212) 252 91 61 now to reserve your spot!

Where: Kayra Wine Center, Sıraselviler Caddesi No. 55/A, Cihangir; P: (0212) 252 91 61

When:21 February, 7:00PM – 9:00PM

How much:85 TL

Language:TR

One of the more recent additions is art ON, which has been at Number 4 Şair Nedim Caddesi since March 2011. The gallery was originally supposed to be located at Number 10 (on in Turkish), which is how it acquired its name; by coincidence, O and N are also the first initials of gallery owners Oktay and Nil Duran – and of course spell the English word “on.”

As a gallery, art ON is small (compared, for example, to its neighbor Rampa), consisting of a single floor with four rooms. Of these, one is used as office space (as is the basement floor) and one as a project room, leaving a small front room with a display window, and a larger room behind it, as gallery space. art ON’s small size and intimate atmosphere make it possible to focus carefully on, say, half a dozen works, without feeling impelled to stay in constant motion as one does at museums and large shows. (That’s not to say that art ON can’t host more than one artist at a time: four of the seven shows that have taken place at the gallery since its opening have been group shows). art ON has exhibited artworks in many different media – painting, photography, sculpture, and new media; the gallery’s director, Sinem Yılmaz,particularly aims to showcase the work of early-career artists.

Our visit to the gallery coincided with the current exhibition For a Moment by young artist Sümer Sayın, also one of the participants in the group show CROSSROADS at art ON last year. (Yılmaz prefers to have artists take part in group shows at first, prior to having their own solo shows). The fewer than a dozen pieces in For a Moment have been well chosen and afford ample material for careful reflection. One section features acrylic on canvas works that play games with geography, such as the ironically-titled “The World is Round,” featuring an incomplete segment of a globe perched cerebellum-like upon a pedestal for our apparent edification, or “The Country of Transition,” in which a long strip of territory shaped like an ECG readout suggests gerrymandering or Bantustan-ing taken to an extreme. The wall drawing “Within the System 2” also brilliantly summons the image of a world map through nothing more than a series of quadrilaterals of varying size, as well as fluid outlines that – on closer inspection – have nothing in common with the actual coastlines of the world’s continents.

There are also a number of other sculptures and prints, plus Sayın’s signature “kinetic installations.” One of these, the cryptically-titled “Yes,” occupies the small display-window room, and consists of what look like the twitching segments of a digital clock. If one waits long enough, however, these segments are transformed into the word YES for a brief moment. This, according to art critic Andreas Schlaegel, is the “moment” referred to by the show’s title: “one surprising and brief moment…when things just click, and everything seems to make sense, the individual elements align and form the ultimate affirmative…it makes you want to wait, like a bride at a wedding, for the magical word to appear.”

The presence of an artwork in a gallery display window, where it can be viewed just as easily from outside the gallery as inside (or, in some spaces, more easily), raises provocative questions about the role of art in public life. Admission to art ON, as with the vast majority of galleries, is free, thus making this enclosed space – partly visible from the street, yet distinct from it – something not quite private and not quite public. It should be said in this connection that art ON’s staff are extremely welcoming, friendly, and willing to answer questions, and on the evening we visited, the gallery door was literally open to the street, despite the cold. Yılmaz has spoken with praise of the 2010 European Capital of Culture Agency’s Portable Art project, which brought contemporary art to cultural centers in neighborhoods like Ümraniye, Tuzla, Fatih, and Küçükçekmece, districts normally considered beyond the artistic pale.

Thanks to the efforts of galleries like art ON, contemporary art is gaining wider recognition in Turkey – and also becoming a lucrative business. In Yılmaz’s opinion, the most significant event of the past 10 years in the Istanbul art world was the sale of Burhan Doğançay’s Mavi Senfoni (Blue Symphony) for well over a million dollars, reflecting Turkey’s burgeoning national economy, with its collectors who are willing to pay large sums for art. Just ten years ago, says Yılmaz, most Turkish artists needed to have day jobs simply to make ends meet, a fact which was the subject of a 2007 show Art & Money curated by Marcus Graf. Nowadays, producing works of art is a career, not just “a hobby or part time job.”

art ON, Şair Nedim Caddesi No.4, Akaretler; P: (0212) 259 15 43

After a long renovation process, Emporio Armani Cafe was reincarnated as Emporio Armani Ristorante last month with a simple yet very Italian concept: live well and eat well. And that, in sum, is the experience offered by Emporio Armani Ristorante.

First of all, it’s the decor that catches you off guard – walking into such an elegant atmosphere within a shopping mall is quite surprising. And that’s why, once you enter through the doors of the restaurant, you feel you’re no longer at İstinyePark but at a fancy restaurant in, say, Milan, surrounded by talkative businesspeople, ladies-who-lunch, and anyone who appreciates good taste.

And good taste is the only thing you’ll find on your plate here – you’re in very good hands! The kitchen is under the command of award-winning Turkish and international chefs. Executive Chef Yener Özden is a member of the World Association of Chefs Societies, the winner of more than 40 medals from gastronomic competitions, and one of the representatives of the slow food movement. Sous-Chef Musa Şener is the chief assistant of the Turkish National Culinary Team. The restaurant’s Chef de Cuisine is Cristiano Cameli, who laid the groundwork for the Emporio Armani Ristorante with his expertise in pastas, risottos, and original Italian flavors.

The Özden-Şener-Cameli team aims not to create Turkified versions of Italian dishes, but to offer a truly authentic Italian experience. And that is evident in the first minutes of the experience as the expertly-informed wait staff asks whether we’d like to have still or sparkling water. Molto buono!

The menu, which changes every three months based on seasonal ingredients and the chefs’ inspirations, is a combination of traditional Italian and modern Mediterranean dishes, all made from the freshest, purest, highest quality ingredients. When we had lunch with the restaurant’s manager Mustafa Apak last week, we started off with an Insalata di Gamberetti – prawns deep fried in five grains served with mixed greens in olive oil and lemon sauce. Crunchy on the outside, juicy on the inside, the prawns were impeccable, and perfectly balanced off by the fresh salad. Did I mention the thin focaccia bread that we savored while waiting for our antipasti?

Following the prawns, we had the gooey Risotto Ai Funghi Porcini (Risotto with Porcini Mushrooms), which comes highly recommended by Chef Cameli. We chose Tonno Scottato (Tuna Steak with Red Onions Cooked in Balsamic Reduction) as our secondo piatto. This dish is a rare find in Istanbul and definitely a winner at Emporio Armani Ristorante.

We had a glorious ending to our meal with a dessert platter of Panna Cotta, Bavarese (Bavarian White Chocolate), and a delicious Tiramisu. The dessert platter truly summarizes what it means to live well and eat well. We suggest you give it a try ASAP.

After dessert, you may want to head over to the outdoor dining area on the second floor (where a vertical garden is in the works). Pick a glass of wine (or a bottle) from the extensive wine list, with a focus on Turkish and Italian wines, or take a look at the bar menu, which includes a range of whiskeys, cognacs, grappas, and digestives as well as cocktails. The best part? You can enjoy your drink with a fine cigar that you pick from the menu (maybe a Hupman 60 or Cohiba Exquisitos?) on the terrace overlooking the crème de la crème strutting their stuff from Dior to Louis Vuitton.

Emporio Armani Ristorante, İstinyePark Shopping Mall, İstinye Bayırı Caddesi No. 73, İsinye; P: (0212) 345 61 40

Istanbul is a well of wonders both for locals and tourists. We got really curious and asked our followers on Twitter where they love the most in Istanbul. Take a look at their responses below, join the conversation on Twitter (www.twitter.com/tgistanbul), and share with us where “your place” in the city is.

Winda_Gulnaz: “Beyoğlu - istiklal caddesi - nostaljik tramvay”

The tram on İstiklal Caddesi (Istiklal Street) is as functional as it is nostalgic. For more information on how to get around the city, click here.

Alison__Ramsey: “Shopping on bağdat caddesi”

The heart of shopping on the Asian side is definitely Bağdat Caddesi (Bağdat Street), especially the Şaşkınbakkalareaand Suadiye. The same goes for Nişantaşıon the European side.

Gokceagsu: “I would say cihangir for sure”

We all love Cihangir - it’s even listed on The Guardian as one of the top 5 cities to live in the world. Curious much? Check out our neighborhood profile of Cihangir to learn more.

Lauren_Manuel: “The blue mosque, Aya Sofia, ferry over Bosphorus, Buyukada Island.”

Sultan Ahmet Camii (The Blue Mosque) and Aya Sofya (Hagia Sophia) are must-see sights for all first-time visitors of Istanbul. But there is more to seeSultanahmetother than The Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia.Unlike the buzzing Sultanahmet area, Büyükadais a calm island that serves as a perfect getaway from the city. For the past few years, it’s been attracting a steady stream of tourists, too.

Deryakitapci: “Galata and the Cafe at Istanbul Modern - #breathtaking”

A must-do in Istanbul is to gaze at the city from the top of the Galata Kulesi (Galata Tower). Read about our neighborhood review to discover more about the Galata area. And next time you’re at the Istanbul Modern Café, make sure you discover the hidden spots in Karaköy.

DTriantaphyllou: “Cihangir of course and walking from there to Cibali via the Galata Bridge and through the sokaks after Eminonu...in the snow.”

The city is even more beautiful in the snow, and there are a lot that you can enjoy during the wintertime like drinking traditional Turkish drinks (salep and boza) or enjoying a bowl of delicious soup.

CoralieNicolao: “Fener for the authenticity and çamlıca for the amazing view”

If you like authentic neighborhoods, check out Samatya on the European Side.

SuzetteVanDelay: “Bosphorus!”

You can take a trip up the Bosphorus with a ferry, yacht, cruise, or even with Sultan Kayıkları (Sultan Boats) just like the ones that Ottoman Sultans used to travel with.

Auberbergine: “The view of the city from over the bridge!”

The view over the bridge is indeed unprecedented. Why not enjoy it with a glass of bubbly in a limo?

Semsiistanbul: “Kalamis to Caddebostan coast; good for a walk with my dog.”

Do you know what else is great on the coastal road? Outdoor sports! Running, bicycling, swimming, windsurfing…

Dilapa: “Getting lost in the mysterious charm of the basilica cistern, the bohemian feel of Galata and running along the Bosphorus!”

Mystery indeed! Yerebatan Sarnıcı (The Basilica Cistern) is a must-see on a visit to Istanbul. For more on what to see on your next trip, check out our list of the TOP 7 must-see sightsin Istanbul.

Serayulucankanb: “I was happy with everything, I love Istanbul.”

Who doesn’t love Istanbul? It’s a magic cityafter all.

İpek Hanım Çiftliği(İpek Hanım’s Farm) is located a little outside the village of Ocaklı in Nazilli (Aydın Province in the Aegean). İpek Hanım is a committed vegetarian whose farm products, grown without any kind of hormones, pesticides, or chemical fertilizer, include a wide selection of vegetables, homemade jams, olive oils, cheeses, eggs, and more. An updated list of the Farm’s products (the availability of which changes regularly) is emailed to İpek Hanım’s customers, who then reply with their order. Orders are shipped five days a week, but can be placed at any time. Payment is upon delivery only, with no payment being accepted if orders arrive in a spoiled condition. All you need to do to enjoy İpek Hanım’s delicious produce is to send an email to ipekhanim@ipekhanim.com and ask to be added to the mailing list. We recommend you try the peasant bread, carrot, tarhana soup, sweet goat cheese, and anything that takes your fancy.

Ekolojik İmece (Ecological Collective) is known as the force behind the Feriköy Pazarı, Turkey’s first ecological weekly market, and currently operates three additional markets in Bakırköy (on Saturdays), Kartal (on Sundays), and Levent’s Kanyon Shopping Mall (on Fridays), as well as in Ankara and Antalya. Its popular Ekolojik Gıda Kutusu (Ecological Food Basket) offers home delivery of an array of different products including herbs and spices, every imaginable variety of seasonal fruit and vegetable, half a dozen types of honey, and cheeses made from organic goat’s milk. Organic wines, and organic personal care and beauty products, are also available. An updated product list is sent every Wednesday to web subscribers (to subscribe to the mailing list, simply send an email to siparis@ekolojikimece.com). Products shipped to your home (which generally arrive within 1-2 days) are payable on delivery, by cash or credit card, and there is no shipping charge for orders over 80 TL.

Mandalin Bahçesi, as its name implies (mandalina being the Turkish word for tangerine) specializes in citrus fruits, in addition to jujubes, apricots, plums, and avocados. The company, run by business partners Hikmet Faralyalı and Emel Rona, is located in the village of Gümüldür in İzmir Province on the Aegean Coast, and has a selection of seasonal fruit for mail-order shipping. Any fruit ordered from Mandalin Bahçesi is not picked until the order has been received. Orders placed on their website generally arrive within 1-2 days, with a minimum order of 4 kg. The company also produces fresh honey from beehives located on its farm.

Ayerya Rüzgarlı Vadi Organik Tarım Çiftliği (Ayerya Rüzgarlı Vadi Organic Agricultural Farm), located in Urla (İzmir Province on the Aegean Coast), specializes in olive products, with a good selection of organic olives (green, pink, and black) and early harvest/cold-pressed olive oils. Ayerya also sells fresh goat cheese and eggs, in addition to a wide range of seasonal fruits and vegetables, nuts, honey, flowers, and natural soaps. The Farm also sells several different kinds of poultry including chicken, turkey, peacock, and pheasant. Email subscribers receive regular mailings with a list of available products (send an email to p.omuroglu@gmail.com to be added to the mailing list). To place an order, just respond with a message specifying the products you wish to have shipped.

If you have recently strolled through Istanbul’s coolest neighborhood Galata, you may have noticed the prevalence of many new boutique hotels, one of the most noteworthy being Rooms Galata.

The Galata area is popular not only with the city’s artists, but also with many visitors who want to be right in the center of the city’s buzz and energy. Many visitors to Istanbul want to stay in Galata because of the area’s rich history. And what better way to experience this than by staying in a boutique hotel housed in a historical building? For visitors looking for such an experience, Rooms Galata, a small boutique hotel that is big on charm, is an ideal option. You’re sure to get a warm reception at this beautiful hotel, with 16 rooms spread over two connected historical buildings. The buildings themselves and the rooms are very charming, with much attention given to small details, such as the tasteful glassware and original works of art. All of the rooms have high ceilings and wooden floors, with a unique décor that perfectly blends modern and antique details. Some also have private terraces, while the rooftop terrace has a sea view.

When the architects discovered original frescoes on the walls, they painstakingly restored them so that the historical details of the building would be preserved, adding to the individual beauty of the rooms. In fact, all of the artwork on the walls is original, and even the furniture has been specifically designed by the hotel’s architect Bülent Güngör. The rooms have kitchenettes, but there is also a cozy café downstairs where you can enjoy light snacks, as well as a small courtyard where you can sit outside.

Staying here, you could easily feel like you are visiting a tasteful and well-off friend who has thoughtfully considered every detail of your stay. The attentive and friendly staff will make you feel very welcome and give you tips on how to best enjoy the city. For visitors who want to stay in a central and historic part of the city, but would rather avoid the tourist crowds of Sultanahmet, Rooms Galata offers a great alternative.

Rooms Galata, Şahkulu Mahallesi İstiklal Caddesi Kumbaracı Yokuşu No. 37, Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 293 31 86

Don’t waste your time trying to figure out what “Mando Diao” means. The name of this Swedish foursome is the whimsical invention of founding member Björn Dixgård. The band picked up speed when Dixgård, together with vocalist/guitarist Gustaf Norén, supposedly embarked on a marathon 14-month songwriting session in a beach house in the late 90s. It was only a matter of time before they signed on to the EMI Sweden label and released their first album, 2002’s Bring’Em In. Their latest album, Give me Fire,came out in 2009, and was produced by the Salla Salazar from the hip-hop band The Latin Kings.

There will be a warm-up at 9:00 PM by progressive rock group Helicopria, with Mando Diao coming on stage an hour later.

When: February 18, 10:00 PM

Where: Küçükçiftlik Park

How much: From Biletix: 55 TL; 40 TL

Borsa:Borsa has been serving top-quality Turkish cuisine since 1927, and features elegant décor and excellent service. The menu is made up of Turkish classics like lahmacun (Turkish-style pizza); içli köfte (kibbeh); mantı (Turkish-style ravioli); lakerda (salted bonito); imambayıldı (eggplant stuffed with tomatoes, onion, and garlic); and a wide variety of meat dishes, such as iskender kebap (roasted lamb spread over buttery pita bread, topped with a savory tomato sauce, a drizzle of butter, and a dollop of yogurt) and kuzu pirzola (lamb chops). This is not light fare, so come with an appetite! Lütfi Kırdar Convention Center, Gümüş Caddesi No. 4, Harbiye; P: (0212) 232 42 01

Enstitü: Enstitü is the workplace and (skilled) experimentation zone of Istanbul Culinary Institute’s third-year students. The cuisine on offer is mostly Turkish and Mediterranean, with some international dishes available. The menu changes daily to allow the students full artistic scope and includes a variety of appetizers, main courses, and desserts. Some highlights of previous menus includemücver (a vegetable fritter usually prepared with zucchini) made with pumpkin; lamb stew with dried fruits, almonds, and sumac; andköfte (meatballs) with pita bread, yogurt, and tomato sauce.Meşrutiyet Caddesi No. 59, Tepebaşı; P: (0212) 251 22 14

Çiya:One of the most popular locations on the Asian Side, Çiya offers some of the most unique Turkish food in the city in a casual and traditional setting. Using seasonal ingredients sourced from all over the country, Çiya makes mouth-watering dishes that even many locals have never heard of. Güneşli Bahçesi Sokak No. 43-44, Kadıköy. (0216) 330 31 90

Hünkar:Hünkar is an upscale version of a classic tradesmen’s restaurant, with its tables covered with white tablecloths and its interior elegantly decorated with wood paneling, memorabilia, and Ottoman art on the walls. Founded in 1950, the restaurant specializes in home-style Turkish and Ottoman cuisine. Mim Kemal Öke Caddesi No. 9, Nişantaşı; P: (0212) 225 46 65

Nar Lokanta: Located in the heart of Sultanahmet by the Grand Bazaar’s Nuruosmaniye gate, Nar Lokanta offers traditional Turkish food at its freshest and lightest, with dishes made using all-natural, regional products from throughout Anatolia, and the best quality olive oil. The menu at Nar Lokanta features familiar Turkish classics as well as a number of less common regional dishes, covering everything from Ottoman palace dishes to humble village fare. Armaggan, Nuruosmaniye Caddesi No.65, 5th Floor, Nuruosmaniye; P: (0212) 522 2800

Park Şamdan: Open since 1982, Park Şamdan is a long-established favorite with locals and it is favored for its elegant and refined atmosphere. The restaurant specializes in classic Turkish dishes but with a continental touch so expect to find leg of lamb soup next to risotto on the menu! Mim Kemal Öke Caddesi No. 18/1, Nişantaşı; P: (0212) 225 07 10

Kiva: Kiva, the European side’s answer to Çiya, is right in the shadow of the Galata Tower, and offers traditional Anatolian dishes from every part of Turkey, particularly the East and Southeast. The menu has over a dozen kinds of soup and even more varieties of stew, casserole, and sarma and dolma (stuffed vegetables); some dishes feature exotic ingredients like thistle and cowpea. There are also Turkish comfort foods like karnıyarık (eggplant filled with minced meat), and a profusion of salads/appetizers including Middle Eastern offerings like hummus, muhammara, and baba ganoush. Kiva, Galata Kulesi Meydanı No: 4, Galata; P: (0212) 292 00 37

The menu at Morro is solidly Italian, no fusion twists or surprises here, but rather just what you would expect at one of Istanbul’s classic Italian restaurants. Instead of importing ingredients from Italy, Morro instead focuses on getting the freshest local ingredients that are in season in Turkey. They freshly bake their own bread sticks and tasty tomato and whole grain breads, and have a wood burning pizza oven.

Appetizers include grilled asparagus, a cheese and prosciutto plate, and various salads, topped with goat’s cheese, grilled chicken, or sea bass. Main courses include rosemary chicken, grilled seafood skewers and sirloin steak, and sea bass cooked in beet leaves (a very popular option). Pasta dishes include linguine with seafood, a four cheese tortellini, and saffron risotto.

With a wood burning oven at the back, it comes as no surprise that the restaurant’s specialty is pizza, with a wide selection offering something for everyone, including some with a clear Turkish influence. Toppings include a range of cheeses and vegetables, smoked meat, smoked cheese, olives, and caramelized onions. There are also a few that offer prosciutto, cotto ham, and chorizo for those who really enjoy their pork products.

Wanting to leave room for all three courses, we decided to start our meal with a simple salad of arugula, tomatoes, and parmesan cheese. I had the daily special, which was the vegetarian lasagna with spinach and goat’s cheese. While it was very hearty and tasty, the lack of tomato sauce made the dish more reminiscent of a cross between lasagna and a Turkish börek than traditional Italian lasagna. My companion had the Pizza Pidos, a simple pizza with tomato sauce, mozzarella, and chargrilled eggplant. The crust was pleasantly thin and crispy while the eggplant had a nice smoky flavor, particularly when complimented with a dash of hot sauce.

The dessert menu once again offers a selection of Italian classics, such as Panna Cotta, Tiramisu and Napoleone. We made a delicious end to our meal with the chocolate soufflé, which was rich and decadent, served with vanilla ice-cream, as well as a portion of orange-chocolate and raspberry ice-cream, which comes from Cremeria Milano.

Morro is a nice addition to this rapidly developing neighborhood, a good option where you can enjoy a nice Italian meal in a warm and welcoming setting without breaking the bank.Kumbaracı Yokuşu No.66 Tünel; P:(0212) 292 25 50

Other designers who showed their collection include Tuvana Büyükçınar, Niyazi Erdoğan, Erol Albayrak, Nejla Güvenç,Cengiz Abazoğlu, Mehtap Elaidi, Özlem Kaya, and Arzu Kaprol. There were also several mixed shows, giving younger and up-and-coming designers a chance to showcase their collections.

There was a lot of buzz surrounding Atıl Kutoğlu’s opening night show, thanks in no small part to model Lizzie Jagger (daughter of Rolling Stone’s Mick Jagger) and singer Jermaine Jackson taking the stage to model Kutoğlu’s designs. Kutoğlu has gained an international following with his designs, and this collection once again featured his trademark sexy and hyper-feminine looks, with lots of leather, satin, and plunging necklines, with feathers and geometric rhinestones adding embellishment.

Gamze Saraçoğlu’s show started with sound of footsteps crunching in the snow and panting, which then turned into a beat. The first model appeared on the runway in a long and tight teal green dress, with a deep open V-neck and equally plunging neckline at the back. The sole embellishment was a brown leather belt, an outfit that set the tone for the rest of the collection. The colors started with deep teal green, then deep orange, neutral plaids, poppy orange, camel, and finally cream, all accentuated with brown leather belts and straps,and fur trim on collars, arms and even hips.

Many of the pieces in Saraçoğlu’s collection featured intricate paneling, while the sharp tailoring and use of gold buttons gave many of the outfits a military or equestrian feel. This collection had a lot of long tight dresses, with many of the looks serving as a departure from Saraçoğlu’s previous works. While Saraçoğlu has used paneling in the past, it was never with such geometric shapes. Some of the strongest pieces in the collection were outerwear, such as a grey wool coat with a brown leather belt and arm straps, and another similar hooded version, with fur finish around the sleeves, pockets, and hood.

Another standout collection was presented by SimayBülbül, the local media darling who is known for her work with leather and monotone neutral colors. Her Winter 2013 show reflected a change in direction for the designer - the silhouettes were much more refined and ladylike than what we are used to seeing from Bülbül. While her signature leather was still present, there was now also a lot of satin, fur, and sequins, creating a very retro look reminiscent of the 1930s. Indeed this collection was a lot more glamorous in a more traditional sense, with Bülbül taking her inspiration from Keriman Halis Ece, the Turkish fashion model and beauty queen who was crowned Miss Turkey in 1932 and passed away earlier this year.

All in all, last week’s IFW was an important step in Istanbul’s fashion evolution, establishing Turkish designers yet again as talents to watch out for.

Le Méridien Istanbul Etiler, Cengiz Topel Caddesi No: 39, Etiler; P: (0212) 384 00 00

For the Ladies:

Option 1: Head to the Wailers concert at Küçükçiftlik Park.

Option 2: Get drunk out of your mind at the shot bar Tektekçi. They have an extensive and detailed menu where you can choose what to drink. But being adventurous and not knowing what you’re drinking is half the fun. So, order the 10-shot platter and ask the waiter to mix it up however they want to!

Option 3: If you don’t want to search for your ID and keys at the end of the night, head to Baylo for a few cocktails (we strongly suggest the Green Apple Martini). If you decide to really let loose, Asmalımescit’s bars are just around the corner.

Option 4: Drinking shots and dancing wildly are synonymous with Asmalımescit’s bar scene. You can start at Lokal, make your way to Parantez, then Küçük Otto. And the night will probably take you all the way to MiniMüzikhol in Cihangir.

For the Men:

Option 1: Drink beer at home and play Playstation 3 until your thumbs hurt.

Option 2: Head to The Game at the Point Hotel Barbaros. Live out your rock star fantasies, enjoy a 3D race simulator, play Playstation 3 or Nintendo Wii or Acer Predator – or all of them in any order you want! Heaven for the male species away from estrogen!

Option 3: Go hunting. You know where the ladies will be barhopping in Asmalımescit (see Option 4 above).

Tektekçi, Tomtom Mahallesi Akarsu Sokak No.2/1, Beyoğlu; P: (0533) 774 74 60

Baylo, Asmalımescit Mahallesi Meşrutiyet Caddesi No.107A, Beyoğlu, P: (0212) 243 60 18

Lokal,Tünel Meydanı No.186/A, Tünel; P: (0212) 245 40 28

Parantez,Asmalımescit Mahallesi Sofyalı Jurnal Sokak No. 1, Asmalımescit; P: (0212) 245 75 13

Küçük Otto, Asmalımescit Mahallesi Şehbender Sokak No. 5/1, Asmalımescit; P: (0212) 292 70 15

MiniMüzikhol,Sıraselviler Caddesi Soğancı Sokak No: 7 D: 1, Cihangir

Point Hotel Barbaros, Yıldız Posta Caddesi No. 29, Esentepe; P: (0212) 337 30 00

Chalet Restaurant / Swissotel

What’s on offer: A fireside, candlelit four-course dinner, with live music, in this 100-year old chalet on the grounds of the Swissotel. Chalet’s prix-fixe menu includes rich fare such as Lamb Consommé with Saffron Spaetzle, Pumpkin, and Goat Cheese Crackers; Chalet’s signature fondue; and, for dessert, Heart Shaped Chocolate Delight with Morello Cherries. Chalet also features a skating rink, Winter Wonderland, for those who want a bit of post-prandial exercise. Just don’t get too carried away and start thinking the cable car in Maçka is a ski lift…

Price: 430 TL for two people, including a glass of champagne

Swissotel, Bayıldım Caddesi No.2, Beşiktaş; P: (0212) 326 11 00

Ajia Restaurant / Ajia Hotel

What’s on offer: An à la carte menu of award-winning Italian and Turkish cuisine with unlimited wine at Ajia Restaurant, in an Ottoman-era yalı (waterside mansion) in the serene Asian-side Bosphorus district of Kanlıca, far from the hubbub of central Istanbul. A DJ will be present to provide an evening’s worth of slow, romantic music. This is an excellent choice for those who live on the Asian side; but given the small size of the hotel, we recommend that your make your reservations as soon as possible.

Price: 175 TL minimum per person, including unlimited wine

Ahmet Rasim Paşa Yalısı Çubuklu Caddesi No.27, Kanlıca; P: (0216) 413 93 53

Agatha Restaurant / Pera Palace Hotel

What’s on offer: A five-course prix-fixe menu prepared by Agatha chef Maximilian Thomae, whose inventive offerings include Lamb Loin crusted with Sesame Paste, Potato Pave, Swiss Chard, and Lamb Sauce; Artichoke and Cheese Cannelloni; and for dessert, a Raspberry Parfait of Passion Fruit Ice Cream in a Chocolate Ball with Pistachio Macaroons and Fresh Fruit Sauce. There will be atmospheric live violin music at this restaurant named for the Pera Palace’s most famous guest, Orient Express author Agatha Christie. Guests can also avail themselves of the hotel’s special Valentine’s Day accommodation packages.

Price: 200 TL per person, including one glass of champagne

Pera Palace Hotel, Meşrutiyet Caddesi No. 52, Tepebaşı; P: (0212) 377 40 00

City Lights Restaurant / Ceylan Intercontinental Hotel

What’s on offer: A prix-fixe dinner at City Lights Restaurant (known for its modern decor and superb haute cuisine) on the top floor of the Ceylan Intercontinental Hotel, with unbeatable views of the Bosphorus and beyond. Local musician Su Soley will be on hand for a live performance of jazz and Latin music. The Ceylan Intercontinental also offers special accommodation packages for Valentine’s Day.

Price: 300 TL per person, including unlimited local drinks

Ceylan InterContinental Istanbul, Asker Ocağı Caddesi No. 1, Taksim; P: (0212) 368 44 44 ex. 5550

Le Fumoir / Georges Hotel

What’s on offer: A sumptuous six-course prix-fixe French meal for two at Le Fumoir, the new French restaurant in the lobby of the Georges Hotel in Galata. The meal will begin with a glass of champagne Billecart Salmon, and then alternate between “required courses” chosen by the chef (like the Hot Camembert Salad and the Clams with Fresh Mulled Wine Sauce and Celery Puree) and “electives” you can choose from the menu. Following dessert, you’ll finish with a bottle of Château Les Trois Croix or Vouvray.

Price: 380 TL for two people

Georges Hotel, Serdar-ı Ekrem Sokak No.24, Galata; P: (0212) 244 24 23

Seasons Restaurant / Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at Sultanahmet

What’s on offer: A five-course, prix-fixe meal with live music at the Seasons Restaurant, located in a large glass pavilion in the Four Seasons Hotel Sultanahmet, just a stone’s throw from Hagia Sophia. Seasons’ Valentine’s Day menu is different for men and women, although both menus follow the same pattern (seafood appetizer, pasta course, fish course, meat course, dessert). If the woman in your party prefers dark chocolate to white chocolate, you can always swap desserts surreptitiously.

Price: 175 TL per person, including a welcome cocktail

Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at Sultanahmet, Tevkifhane Sokak No.1, Sultanahmet; P: (0212) 402 30 00

Aqua Restaurant / Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at the Bosphorus

What’s on offer: A five-course prix-fixe menu at the Four Seasons Bosphorus’s Aqua Restaurant, with spectacular views of the Bosphorus. This light-hearted Valentine’s Day menu (with offerings like “King Prawn Passionate Tagliolini,” and “Lovely Braised Rack of Lamb”) has taken “Love in Eastern and Western literature” as its theme, with courses titled “Poma Amoris,” “Ars Amatoria,” “Aphrodite,” and “Ferhat & Şirin,” plus a dessert course, “Sweet Valentine Surprise.” A live orchestra will play a selection of world music while you dine.

Price: 245 TL per person, including a welcome cocktail

Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at the Bosphorus, Çırağan Caddesi No. 28, Beşiktaş; P: (0212) 381 40 59

Tuğra Restaurant / Çırağan Palace Kempinski

What’s on offer: A Valentine’s Day prix-fixe dinner at the Çırağan Palace Kempinski’s Tuğra Restaurant featuring a record-breaking seven courses, with separate men’s and women’s menus. The rich, hearty menus include several kinds of meat and seafood, mantı (dumplings), a palate-cleansing fruit course midway, and two consecutive dessert courses. For the second dessert, the hitherto gender-coded menus converge with a single chocolate soufflé for both men and women. Is the Tuğra restaurant trying to hint at something? Your guess is as good as ours.

Price: 460 TL for two people

Çırağan Hotel Kempinski, Çırağan Caddesi No. 32, Beşiktaş; (0212) 326 46 46

Divan Lokanta / Divan Istanbul Hotel

What’s on offer: A five-course prix-fixe dinner at the Divan Istanbul Hotel’s Divan Lokanta (just a few minutes’ walk from Taksim Square), prepared by Divan Lokanta chef Aydın Demır. Divan’s Valentine’s Day prix-fixe menu features rich French/international fare like Foie Gras & Truffle Ravioli, and Avocado Salad with Prawns in a Bisque Sauce with Fresh Herbs and Parsley. Dessert comes in the form of a raspberry/coconut mousse, and diners will be able to choose from the following wines: Arnaldo Caprai Poggio Belvedere (Grechetto) White, Arnaldo Caprai Poggio Belvedere (Sangiovese, Sagrantino, Merlot) Red, and Villa Jolanda Moscato D’Asti Spumanti. There will be a violin/guitar/accordion trio playing live music.

Price: 190 euros + KDV for two people, including unlimited local drinks

Divan Hotel, Askerocağı Caddesi No.1 Şişli; P: (212) 315 55 00

Cupcakes: If you’re dating a chocoholic, why not show your love with a box of chocolate cupcakes? Istanbul Cupcake Factory, Istanbul Cupcakery, Merve’s Cupcakes, and Rococo have some drool-worthy versions of this treat.

Flowers: Flowers can be the present itself, or the accompaniments to a present – depending on how much you’re planning to spoil your lover this year! Either way, we suggest you ask Ege Soley, Flower House, or Marginal Flowers to create a love-filled arrangement for your significant other.

Ege Soley, Süleyman Seba Caddesi No. 83/A , Akaretler; P: (0212) 227 09 22 

Flower House,Yıldız Mahallesi Ihlamur Caddesi No.3/A, Beşiktaş; P: (0212) 259 29 17 

Marginal Flowers, Poyracık Sokak No.7, Nişantaşı; P: (0212) 233 40 00  

Antiques: Romance carries with it a hint of nostalgia, a hint of beautiful memories, of times gone by. What better way to celebrate that romance than by purchasing an antique. You’ll find a wide range of pieces at Sofa in Galata and Sofa in Nuruosmaniye, from toys and jewelry to paintings and tableware.

Serdar-ı Ekrem Sokak No.47 Galata, Galata; P: (0212) 292 39 77   

Nuruosmaniye Caddesi No. 53/A, Cağaloğlu; P: (0212) 520 28 50-51 

A cooking course: Nowadays, being able to talk to each other face to face for an hour practically counts as romance. We’re that busy! If such is the case with you and your sweetheart, consider taking a cooking course together. You’ll be stuck in a room for hours with your hands dirty, so you can’t rely on the cop-out of electronic communication. Whether you love the experience or hate it, you’ll bond through this shared memory. Check out our Agenda for Istanbul Culinary Institute and Mutfak Sanatları Akademisi courses, pick one, and sign up!

Istanbul Culinary Institute, Meşrutiyet Caddesi No. 59, Tepebaşı; P: (0212) 251 22 14 

Mutfak Sanatları Akademisi, Meydan Sokak Beybi Giz Plaza B Blok No. 123-126, Maslak; P: (0212) 290 35 50 

Limo rental: Sometimes love means letting your lover go a little wild. So, help her let it all hang out by renting a limo from Inter Limousine for her and her friends’ next girls’ night out. Add in a few bottles of bubbly, and let her have the night of her life. Trust us, she’ll thank you for it. Very very much. Darülbedayi Caddesi Cemal Reşit Rey Concert Hall Car Park level, Harbiye; P: (0212) 232 66 05  

Jewelry: Brooches, earrings, rings, bracelets, necklaces. Sapphire, pearl, diamond, quartz. So many beautiful options to choose from! We hope you’ve done your homework and found out what you lady likes by now. For the best jewelry in Istanbul, head to Gilan, Armaggan, Ela Cindoruk, or Alef.  

Gilan,Akmerkez Shopping Mall, Nispetiye Caddesi No.114, Etiler; P: (0212) 282 05 76 . For more locations, click here. 

Armaggan, Nuruosmaniye Caddesi No.65, Nuruosmaniye; P: (0212) 522 44 33 

Hacı Emin Efendi Sokak No. 4A, Teşvikiye; P: (0212) 241 35 58

Something with hearts on it: You may not be too big a fan of Valentine’s Day, but we’re all huge fans of love. So forget about the jewelry, the limo, and the antiques, and just go straight to the source: the heart. At Kağıthane, you’ll find a range of heart-shaped stuff that will bring a smile to your face and your lover’s. Kemankeş Caddesi Fransız İş Geçidi No.11, Karaköy; P: (0212) 251 71 95. Fore more locations, click here.  

Your lover is a sucker for beautiful views:Then all you have to do is arrange dinner somewhere where you can see Istanbul in all her glory. If you prefer a view of the Golden Horn and the Old City, head toMiklawhere you’ll get a fixed pricemenu of two starters, a main course, dessert, and local wine for 210TL per person. If you prefer a Bosphorus view, head toUlus 29where you’ll get a fixed price menu for 200TL per person (including local drinks). The menu includes goat cheese and beetroot salad, mushroom ravioli, steak, and dessert. Sonia Herring will also be there for a live performance of soul, jazz, and blues.Mikla,The Marmara Pera, Meşrutiyet Caddesi 167/185, Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 293 56 56. Ulus 29, A. Adnan Saygun Caddesi Ulus Parkı İçi, Ulus; P: (0212) 358 29 29.

Your lover loves all things from the sea:That’s an easy one! Head to Bebek Balıkçı or Sur Balık for a delicious seafood meal. If your partner likes classic things, Bebek Balıkçı may be more appealing (there’ll be a group playing guitar and violin on the night of the 14th from 7pm onwards). If your partner is more adventurous, especially when it comes to food, you may want to pick Sur Balık - they have some interesting dishes there, like balık mantısı (fish-filled dumplings, slathered in a garlic-yogurt sauce and dusted with herbs). Bebek Balıkçı, Cevdet Paşa Caddesi No. 26A, Bebek; P: (0212) 263 34 47. Sur Balık, Bebek Arnavutköy Caddesi No.52, Arnavutköy; P: (0212) 257 27 43.

Your lover is an aspiring hippie:Well, Kiva is no vegan restaurant, but it’s a restaurant that celebrates and supports local and seasonal food. So, take your down-to-earth lover to Kiva for some traditional Anatolian food. The Valentine’s Day special menu will include a mixed meze platter of mezes from 7 different regions of Turkey, followed by a dish from Tokat, one from Elazığ, and one from Diyarbakır. The meal, which will include unlimited local drinks, dessert, and Turkish coffee, costs 120 TL per person. Oh, and did we mention you’ll be right at the base of the Galata Tower? Galata Tower Square No. 4, Galata; P: (0212) 292 00 37

Your lover can’t have anything but the best:Changa is the recipient of “Best New Restaurant” award (Wallpaper – Design Awards 2007) and it’s under the consultancy of world-renowned chef Peter Gordon. Need we say more? Didn’t think so! Just remember that Changa offers a fixed price menu of 125 TL per person (including a glass of wine) that includes three starters, a main course, and dessert. Live music will liven up the place from 9pm onwards. Changa, Sıraselviler Caddesi No. 47/1, Taksim; P: (0212) 251 70 64

You both live on the Asian Side:For your sanity’s sake, stay on the Asian side! Instead of spending a few hours in traffic traveling to and from the European side, spend those hours bonding (whichever way you please). For dinner, we suggest you go to Zanzibar. There’ll be a fixed price menu of 85TL and slow Turkish music playing throughout the night. Cemil Topuzlu Caddesi Köşk Sokak No. 112, Caddebostan; P: (0216) 385 64 30

You don’t care about a special Valentine’s Day menu or event – you just want good food and a romantic atmosphere:Well, then you’ve got lots of options. Enjoy wonderful views of the Bosphorus and go for what your heart desires – the best of Japanese or Turkish cuisine at Sunset. Indulge in pasta or pizza at Da Vittorio, the cutest Italian restaurant in town, or head to Papermoon, if you’re after a more serious setting. If you want great views and great food, head to Vogue. For a traditional seafood restaurant, head to Kıyı, or if you want a cozier atmosphere nestled between Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque, head to Balıkçı Sabahattin. If you’re serious when it comes to music and wine, make your reservations at Riserva. If you want local and seasonal food at a cozy restaurant, Backyard is the way to go.

Sunset, Adnan Saygun Caddesi Yol Sokak No. 2 Ulus Parkı, Ulus; P: (0212) 287 03 57

Da Vittorio, Meşrutiyet Caddesi No.70, Ansen Suites, Tünel; P: (0212) 245 88 17

Papermoon, Adnan Saygun Caddesi, Akmerkez Residence Entrance Level, No. 224, Etiler; P: (0212) 282 16 16

Vogue, Süleyman Seba Caddesi BJK Plaza A Blok, Akaretler; P: (0212) 227 44 04

Kıyı, Haydar Aliyev Caddesi No. 186, Tarabya; P: (0212) 262 00 02

Balıkçı Sabahattin, Seyt Hasankuyu Sokak No. 1, Sultanahmet; P: (0212) 458 18 24

Riserva,Haydar Aliyev Cadesi No. 198/A, Tarabya; P: (0212) 299 41 41

Backyard,Bebeköy Sokak No. 1, Etiler; P: (0212) 287 15 00

Ingredients: (Serves 1 person)

100 gr wild mushroom

50 gr leek

50 gr potatoes

25 gr onion

5 gr olive oil

100 gr cream

100 gr milk

2 gr truffle oil

5 gr salt

Preparation:

1.Dice the mushroom, leek, potato, and onion.

2.Add the olive oil to a saucepan, then add the diced ingredients and fry over medium heat for 5-6 minutes.

3.Add cream, milk, and salt, and bring to the boil. Simmer for 10 minutes.

4.Put the mixture through a blender. Then pour it into a bowl, sprinkle with truffle oil, and serve.

Jewelry from Gilan

Sapphires, diamonds, emeralds, pearls...you’ll find all these and more in Gilan’s east-meets-west designs. Remember, you can’t go wrong with jewelry! Akmerkez Shopping Mall, Nispetiye Caddesi No.114, Etiler; P: (0212) 282 05 76. For more locations, click here.

Lingerie from Agent Provocateur

Bring sexy back into your bedroom with irresistible lingerie from Agent Provocateur. Enough said. Kanyon Shopping Mall, Büyükdere Caddesi No. 185, Levent; P: (0212) 319 11 55

A night at Rooms Galata

Spend the night at Rooms Galata, the boutique-like residence in the heart of Galata. You’ll be in a historic room just steps away from the magnificent Galata Tower…add some champagne and strawberries, and you reach the top of the romantic scale. Şahkulu Mahallesi Istiklal Caddesi Kumbaracı Yokuşu No.37, Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 293 31 86-87

A spa treatment at Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at the Bosphorus Spa & Hammam

Indulge in a massage, facial treatment, private hammam...or all three! Relaxing together in the luxurious setting of the Four Seasons Spa will make for a memorable day. Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at the Bosphorus, Çırağan Caddesi No. 28, Beşiktaş; P: (0212) 381 40 00

A tête-à-tête at Chalet

Fireplace? Check. Cozy atmosphere? Check. Great food? Check. Warm up your hearts during the cold winter days at this cute little Alpine-style getaway. Bayıldım Caddesi No. 2 Swissotel, Beşiktaş; P: (0212) 326 11 00

Flowers from Ege Soley Event & Corporate Flowering

The way to a man’s heart is through his stomach – no question there. And many would argue that the way to a woman’s heart is through flowers. Süleyman Seba Caddesi No. 83/A, Akaretler; P: (0212) 227 09 22

Jo Malone

Spoil your senses with Jo Malone products – perfumes, colognes, candles, soaps. You can surprise your lover with abubble bath, or a bath decorated with scented candles. Who knows how they’ll return the favor! Kanyon Shopping Mall Büyükdere Caddesi No.185, Levent; P: (0212) 319 11 72

All you have to do is pick the style and color combination – a task that could be a lot harder than it sounds! Of course, if you would like to leave the designing to the experts, you can shop from one of their many designs. This year’s collection includes the use of exotic materials such as ostrich leather and stingray, as well as more playful pieces with bright colors.

Click here to view the list of Louis Vuitton stores in Istanbul.

There is also a charcuterie and cheese section, and those who want something a bit more substantial can order a main course from a choice menu which includes mushroom risotto, grilled meat, fish, and desserts - the chestnut cheesecake is highly recommended. What could be better than enjoying a lunch that is low in carbs, but still very satisfying and nutritious? Perfect for those who are meeting clients for a business lunch or just wanting to treat themselves to a delicious meal with a beautiful Bosphorus view.Salhane Sokak No.1 Ortaköy;Tel: (0212) 327 77 90

The food is very good, and the menu is quite extensive, with a focus on fish and seafood. The house specialties include mussel stew with ouzo, sea bass stew with saffron, and shrimp sauté with cognac. The highlights of our lunch when we visited include saganaki (pan-fried cheese), dolma (vine leaves stuffed with rice), caciki (yogurt with cucumbers), crab salad, and the vegetable platter (broccoli, potato salad, beetroot, brussel sprouts, and cauliflower).

Kalabalık is the kind of place that anybody looking for a good Greek meal and good conversation with friends could go for lunch or dinner. Those who want to dance the night away should head to Kalabalık on Friday and Saturday nights when Yorgo the Greek entertainer takes the stage and turns Kalabalık into a full-blown Greek tavern.

Kala means good in Greece; balık means fish in Turkish. If you want good fish and seafood, you now know where to go.

Kalabalık; Muallim Naci Caddesi No:99, Kuruceşme; P: (0212) 3583628

Ayran: A frothy blend of yogurt, salt, and water, ayran is a staple Turkish drink that serves as an ideal complement to grilled meat dishes. This refreshing drink is available pre-packaged but is best enjoyed at Saray Muhallebicisi where it’s freshly made. İstiklal Cad. No. 173, Beyoğlu, P: (0212) 292 34 34

Boza: Traditionally sold on chilly winter evenings in on the streets, boza is a creamy and slightly sweet yet acidic drink made from fermented wheat. It is best enjoyed with a dusting of cinnamon on top at Vefa Bozacısı. Vefa Katip Çelebi Caddesi No. 104, Fatih; P: (0212) 519 49 22

Rakı: Turkey’s national drink, rakı is an aniseed-flavored spirit (similar to the Greek uzo). It is extremely strong and the clear liquor is usually diluted with water and chilled with ice to form a milky-looking drink. Some do prefer it "straight up" with a glass of water on the side, although this is not recommended for novices. Rakı is best enjoyed by the water with a seafood meal. (Click here to see our Top 7 Seafood Restaurants.)

Çay: Turkish tea from the Black Sea region is by far the most popular drink in the country, taken at any time of day, usually more than once a day. It is traditionally served in a çay bardağı (small curved glass) and is best enjoyed at Bebek Kahve with simit (a ring of crusty bread covered in sesame seed). Cevdet Paşa Caddesi No. 137, Bebek; P: (0212) 257 54 02

Salep: A sweet and comforting Turkish classic, salep is a very warming winter drink made with crushed orchid root, milk, and cinnamon, and is best enjoyed at Gezi Istanbul. İnönü Caddesi No. 5, Taksim; P: (0212) 292 53 53

Şerbet: A sweet, cold, fruit-flavored drink, şerbet comes in a variety of unique flavors, such as pomegranate and tamarind. It is best enjoyed during warm summer days at Asitane. Kariye Camii Sokak No. 6, Edirnekapı; P: (0212) 534 84 14

Turkish Coffee: Whether you drink it plain or sweet, Turkish coffee is always strong and served in small, delicate cups called fincan. An intrinsic part of Turkish culture, it is best enjoyed with a friend at Mandabatmaz. You can also pick up the best Turkish coffee at Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi. Mandabatmaz: Olivia Geçidi No. 1/A, Beyoğlu. Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi: Tahmis Sokak No. 66, Eminönü; P: (0212) 522 00 80)

Valentine’s Day Special Desserts - Guest Chef Melek Gündoğdu

For this Valentine’s Day, find the perfect recipes for the one you love. At this workshop entitled “Sevgililer Günü Özel Tatlıları,” ICI Guest Chef Melek Gündoğdu will teach you how to make delicious fruit pavlova, double chocolate hazelnut biscotti, heart-warming shortbread heart cookies, and finally espresso panna cotta.

If you decide on attending, sign up on ICI’s website to reserve your place(s).

Where:Istanbul Culinary Institute

When:6 February, 7:00pm

How much:From the venue: 130 TL.

Language:TR with ENG translation

Romantic Italian Menu - Guest Chef Michelangelo de Lauretis

Talented chef Michelangelo de Lauretis will teach the participants of this special workshop how to make a number of delicious and romantic Italian recipes. Attendees at “Romantik İtalyan Menüsü” will learn how to make carpaccio di branzino (marinated sea bass), strawberry risotto, filetto di pesce al cartoccio (sea bream in parchment paper), and pomegranate panna cotta.

If you decide on attending, sign up on ICI’s website to reserve your place(s).

Where:Istanbul Culinary Institute

When:9 February, 7:00pm

How much: From the venue: 130 TL.

Language:ENG with TR translation

For the Love of Chocolate

If you are having trouble finding a gift for Valentine’s Day, this workshop at MSA entitled “Çikolata Aşkına” could be what you’ve been looking for. Make yourself and your sweetheart happy with these delicious treats: heart-shaped raspberry chocolates, chocolate Florentines, orange and marzipan chocolates, and caramelized walnut truffle. Sign up for this workshop, for the love of chocolate!

Where:Mutfak Sanatları Akademisi

When:11 February, 10:00am

How much:From Biletix: 130 TL.

Language:TR

Valentine’s Day Gifts - Guest Chef Feyza Bayrakçıoğlu

This is ICI’s second workshop with a specific Valentine’s Day theme – so if you miss the first one, or want to learn different recipes, sign up for “Sevgililer Günü Hediyelikleri,” where Guest Chef Feyza Bayrakçıoğlu will teach you how to make romantic cupcakes, red and white éclairs, and orange rum and honey lavender truffle. Wrap them up and give them to your significant other – what better present for Valentine’s Day?

If you decide on attending, sign up on ICI’s website to reserve your place(s).

Where:Istanbul Culinary Institute

When:11 February, 11:30am

How much:From the venue: 120 TL.

Language:TR with ENG translation

Valentine’s Day Chocolate Making Course

The clock is ticking towards Valentine’s Day and you still don’t have anything planned? Fear not. On the 11th, Mövenpick Hotel Executive Chef Giovanni Terracciano will teach you how to make chocolate truffles, ganache, and several varieties of white and regular chocolate. Participants will learn the secrets of melting, storing, and shaping mouth-watering homemade chocolate. Following the course, each participant will receive a souvenir apron, compliments of Mövenpick Hotel Istanbul.

For reservations please call 0212 319 29 29.

Where:Mövenpick Hotel Istanbul

When:11 February, 3:00pm

How much:From the venue: 95 TL

Cupcakes

If you want to do something original for Valentine’s Day, MSA has brand-new recipes at their popular “Cupcake’ler” workshop, where you’ll learn how to make pumpkin cupcakes, cashew and beet cupcakes, “Ying Yang” cupcakes, and fig and ginger cupcakes.

Where:Mutfak Sanatları Akademisi

When:14 February, 10:00am

How much:From Biletix: 120 TL.

Language:TR

My Darling Menu

Prepare a special Valentine’s Day dinner with your date at MSA! At this workshop entitled “Sevgilim Menüm,” you and your partner will learn how to make the following Valentine’s Day-worthy dishes: arugula salad in raspberry dressing with garlic shrimps; sautéed scallops covered with parmesan in lemon dressing with truffle-oil; lemongrass and ginger marinated salmon, accompanied by asparagus with Mumm Cordon Rouge passion fruit sauce; and, to finish off, a strawberry mousse with glass of Mumm Cordon Rouge courtesy of MSA.

Where:Mutfak Sanatları Akademisi

When:14 February, 7:00pm

How much:From Biletix: 130 TL.

Language:TR

Istanbul Culinary Institute, Meşrutiyet Caddesi No. 59, Tepebaşı; P: (0212) 251 22 14

Mutfak Sanatları Akademisi, Meydan Sokak Beybi Giz Plaza B Blok No. 123-126, Maslak; P: (0212) 290 35 50

Mövenpick Hotel Istanbul, Emniyet Evleri Mahallesi Akarsu Caddesi No.2, 4. Levent; P: (0212) 319 29 29

The next Istanbul Fashion Week will take place between8-11February 2012, showcasing the 2013 Fall/Winter collections of a number of Turkish designers and ready-to-wear brands.

The 4-day marathon will kick off with Gamze Saraçoğlu at the IFW Tent in Odakule (at the parking lot of the TRT Building in Tepebaşı), followed by Berinza, Tuvana Büyükçınar, and Atıl Kutoğlu. The first day will end with Zeynep Erdoğan and Günseli Türkay’s show at the W Hotel. The second day will start off with a group show (Nihan Peker, Beste Gürel, and Tuba Benian) at the IFW Tent, and continue with Simay Bülbül, Özlem Kaya, and end with Niyazi Erdoğan’s show at the W Hotel. Erol Albayrak will kick-start the shows on the third day, followed by Studio Kaprol and adL + Cengiz Abazoğlu. A workshop by Machka will also be held on the day for those interested in hearing the brand’s story from its owners. On the final day of IFW, the catwalk will host a group show (Şafak Tokur, Çiğdem Akın, and İpek Arnas), followed by Nejla Güvenç, Avva, Mehtap Elaidi, and Giovane G. Designers.

To see the complete catwalk schedule, click here.

Istanbul-based designer Aida Pekin’s has created two special Puzzle Rings for the Destination: Istanbul project at the MoMA (Modern Museum of Art New York) shop. The Puzzle Rings are made of plexiglass and come in two pieces which fit together to form a unique design. One features items from a Turkish bath and the other the implements for making a cup of Turkish coffee, the theme being everyday motifs in Turkish life.

MoMA’s Destination Design series introduces designers and design themes from around the world with designs made exclusively for their gift shop. These playful and lighthearted rings make a great gift and are also available at the Aida Pekin shop in Galata.

Aida Pekin;Serdar-ı Ekrem Caddesi No. 44A Galata; P:(0212) 243 12 11

Following major renovations, it has now reopened as an upscale boutique hotel with 14 rooms, each with stylish, minimal decor and all modern amenities. Located in the heart of the Asmalımescit district, the Gümüşyan hotel is right in the middle of Istanbul’s many shopping and nightlife options, with a café and restaurant at the entrance.

Gümüşyan Hotel;Asmalımescit Sokak No.9 Beyoğlu; P:(0212) 293 29 97

Ingredients:

1 kg Jerusalem artichokes, peeled

25 g butter

2 tablespoon olive oil

1 medium onion, finely chopped

2 celery roots, diced

2 cloves of garlic, diced

1.5 lt vegetable broth

150 g cream

Preparation:

1.Set aside 3 little Jerusalem artichokesand chop the rest.

2.Heat the oil and butter in a pot over medium heat.

3.Sautee the onion, garlic and celery roots for 5 minutes; be careful not to let them brown.

4.Add the Jerusalem artichokesand mix; cover and cook for 5 minutes until fork tender.

5.Add water, bring to a boil, then reduce to low heat and simmer for 25 minutes.

6.Add ½ teaspoon of salt and let the mixture cool for 10 minutes.

7.Blend the mixture with 100 ml of cream in the blender, until it is pureed.

8.Thinly slice the remaining 3 Jerusalem artichokesand dry thoroughly with paper towel.

9.Heat the sunflower seed oil and fry the slice in batches of five; be sure to fry until each slice is crispy.

10.Remove from frying oil onto paper towels to absorb excess oil.

Service:

Heat up the soup, whisk the remaining cream and pour over soup in the serving bowls. Garnish with the fried slices Jerusalem artichokes.

If you’re after a simple meal that starts off with a flavorful soup, head to one of Istanbul’s esnaf lokantaları (tradesmen’s restaurants). For the best tradesmen’s restaurants in Istanbul, click here. In addition to typical home-cooked meals, you’ll find a range of Turkish soups, such as mercimek çorbası (lentil soup), ezogelin çorbası (red lentil and cracked wheat soup), tavuk suyu çobrası (chicken soup), yayla çorbası (yogurt-based soup with rice and mint), paça çorbası (leg of lamb soup), işkembe çorbası (tripe soup), and tarhana çorbası (tarhana soup).

Hünkar is an upscale version of a classic tradesmen’s restaurant. They have at least three varieties of soup on a given day, and they are best known for their leg of lamb soup.

If you want to go fancy on your soup, here is a list of the best soups in Istanbul:

When you head to the stylish Nişantaşı neighborhood for a shopping spree, take a break at Nişantaşı Brasserie and try their onion soup. Alternatively, head to Park Şamdan for a bowl of leg of lamb soup or lentil soup.

If you work in or around Levent, you know that Şans is a great spot for business lunches. Next time you’re there, make sure you order their delicious lentil soup.

When you head to Beyoğlu, you may feel the need to warm up before setting off on your night of barhopping. Baylo’s beetroot soup comes highly recommended for anyone barhopping in the Şişhane area. And if you’re after something ethnic, Çok Çok Thai’s Tom Ka Kai is just what you need.

If you want to try the best fish soup in Istanbul, head to Tarihi Karaköy Balıkçısı - it’s certainly worth the hefty price tag.

Hünkar, Mim Kemal Öke Caddesi No.21, Nişantaşı; P: (0212) 225 46 65

Nişantaşı Brasserie, Abdi İpekçi Caddesi No. 23/1, Nişantaşı; P: (0212) 343 04 43

Park Şamdan, Mim Kemal Öke Caddesi No. 18/1, Nişantaşı; P: (0212) 225 07 10

Şans, Hacı Adil Caddesi Palmiye Sokak No.1, Levent; P: (0212) 280 38 38

Baylo, Asmalımescit Mahallesi Meşrutiyet Caddesi No.107A, Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 243 60 18

ÇokÇok Thai, Meşrutiyet Caddesi No. 51, Tepebaşı; P: (0212) 292 64 96

Tarihi Karaköy Balıkçısı, Kardeşim Sokak No. 45 Grifin Han, Karaköy; P: (0212) 243 40 80

Lavanda Boutique Hotel & Restaurant, Ulupelit Köyü Seçkin Sokak No.2, Şile; P: (0216) 736 56 40

The show, with its collection of black-and-white photographs ranging in date from the 1860s to the early years of the Republic, reveals just how much the city has changed over a century and a half. Photos by approximately a dozen different photographers are on display, in addition to a large number of anonymous images; the work of Ottoman photographer Pascal Sebah (of Sebah & Joaillier) is particularly well-represented. The show, which makes no attempt at covering all areas of Istanbul, focuses exclusively on the Asian shore of the Bosphorus, from Paşalimanı/Kuzguncuk all the way to the mouth of the Black Sea at Anadolu Kavağı. The curators’ decision to begin here (and not further down the coast) is an appropriate one, since it is only north of downtown Üsküdar that one begins to feel one is not quite living in the city.

Information panels provide generous amount of detail about the history of these neighborhoods, many of which (e.g. Beykoz) were semi-independent from the rest of Istanbul until well into the 19th century.The exhibition is particularly informative about the names of the different neighborhoods (there are no fewer than 18 of these between Kuzguncuk and Anadolu Kavağı) and their origins. Anadolu Kavağı apparently refers not to the modern Turkish word kavak (poplar), but to an older kavak which meant “a place where customs duties were collected.” Beykoz, which looks like it means “the Bey’s walnut,” may in fact be Bey kos, “the Bey’s village” – kos being the Persian word for “village.”

Yet it is the photographs themselves – depicting long-vanished modes of life – that evoke the city’s past most tellingly. Ottoman-era ağaç evleri (wooden houses), one of the saddest casualties of Istanbul’s urban transformation, are thankfully much in evidence in these photographs. In a pair of 1865 photos by Pascal Sebah, a trio of veiled female picnickers are conveyed to the top of Yuşa Hill...by ox-drawn carriage. A photo of the Mihrişah Valide Sultan Çeşmesi in Küçüksu contains a shepherd with his sheep – which you probably won’t find there today – and a man selling simit (which you will). Paddle-steamers, the ancestors of today’s Bosphorus ferries, feature in a number of photos; a picture-postcard of the Kuzguncuk İskelesi, like the old postcards sold at second-hand bookshops, has captions in the standard trio of Ottoman Turkish, English, and comically transliterated French. (The French title for this one is Débarcadère de Couscoundjouk).

An amusing pastime at a show of this kind is toexamine a photo– ignoring technical issues like black-and-white versus color – and, without peeking at the caption, ask yourself: what is the earliest or latest date this photograph could have been taken? The presence in a Sebah photo of men in şalvar trousers and fezes dates the image to the pre-Atatürk period, as surely as a public inscription in the Latin alphabet would have dated it to after 1928. A view from Paşalimanı across the water to Beşiktaş and Taksim shows only the horizontal bulk of the Taşkışla – now a campus of Istanbul Technical University – on the hillside, without the Marmara Hotel or Ceylan Intercontinental. Cutoff date: late 1960s. The better your knowledge of Istanbul’s history, geography, and culture, the more precise your estimates will be.

The thrill of recognizing a familiar place in a photo taken decades earlier is akin to the thrill of seeing its satellite image on Google Earth: it is the same, and yet different. Of all the neighborhoods in the show, the reviewer was most curious to see the photographs of Kuzguncuk, where he had once lived himself. Though there were no pictures of İcadiye Caddesi, and very few of central Kuzguncuk in general, it was pleasing to find one of the waterside Üryanizade Mescidi, with its unmistakable gazebo-like minaret. Unfortunately, the show contained no photos of the gargantuan, centuries-old plane tree in Çengelköy, which may date back to before the conquest of the city.

While not all the photographs in a show of this size can be of equal interest, a number of them stood out in the reviewer’s mind, such as Sebah’s photo of the Beykoz Kasrı, looming above a Bosphorus so still as to look like a meadow of grass; Guillaume Berggren’s picture of the Kıbrıslılar Yalısı in Kandilli, in which the fading of the print made the opposite shore appear as though in a foggy haze; and a group of sailboats in Beykoz that looked for all the world like Viking ships. Go see From Konstantiniyye to Istanbul, and you are sure to come up with half a dozen of your own favorites. The show – with its nostalgic and at times striking images of a now-vanished city – forms the perfect accompaniment to a booklike Orhan Pamuk’s nonfiction workIstanbul: Memories and the City (which should ideally be read beforehand) and is well worth a few hours of your time.

Pera Müzesi; Meşrutiyet Caddesi No. 141, Tepebaşı; P: (0212) 334 99 00

Open since fall 2011, Le Fumoir is the restaurant, bar, and lobby of Georges Hotel. Much like its owner Alex Varlık, the venue is quite charming.The restaurant specializes in French home-cooking and, although the menu is narrow, it is filled with classics like onion soup, boeuf bourguignon, coq au vin, entrecote, sea bass tartar, and salad with camembert and coriander. The wine list is packed with selections from France with a few alternatives from Turkey.

Although it’s pricey, the food at Le Fumoir is well worth the splurge. Everything is made from the highest quality ingredients (such as meat from Nusr-Et and smoked salmon from Delicco). The brick walls, brown leather couches, white table runners, and dim lighting blends together to create what is truly chic, urban, and elegant.

Le Fumoir is ideal for lunch or dinner, or just for drinks at the champagne bar, rubbing elbows with the crème de la creme. There’s also soft jazz playing in the background. All you need is an imaginary cigar to complete the picture!

Le Fumoir has already become an Istanbul favorite so be sure to make reservations in advance.

Le Fumoir; Serdar-ı Ekrem Sokak No. 24, Galata; P: (0212) 244 24 23

Changa Restaurant; Sıraselviler Caddesi No. 47/1, Taksim; P: (0212) 251 70 64

The categories for the films in !f Istanbul are different every year; this year’s categories are as follows: !f Inspired, Hit Films, !f Music, Fantastic Films, People Power, Rainbow Films, Home, Trip, e-xperiments, !f Cult, Insomnia, !f Special Screenings, ACID 20BDay, Spotlight on Sundance, and !f Shorts.

Highlights of the festival include UK filmmaker James Marsh’s 2011 documentary Project Nim, about the famous signing chimpanzee Nim Chimpsky; Tamer Ezzat, Ayten Amin, and Amr Salama’s Tahrir 2011: The Good, the Bad and the Politician, about last year’s political upheaval in Egypt; past films by award-winning directors like Thailand’s Apichatpong Weerasethakul; and many more.

The eight films in the !f Inspired category, all by emerging directors, will also be in competition for a prize for Most Inspired Director, judged by a jury consisting of Turkish director Yeşim Ustaoğlu, film critics Andrea Picard and Mark Adams, critic/director Jonathan Caouette, and Egyptian actor/activist Khaled Abol Naga; the winner will receive a prize of $15,000.

This year the main films in the !f Festival will be screened at the following Istanbul cinemas: AFM Budak Caddebostan, AFM Fitaş (Salons 1 and 4), AFM İstinyePark, and Cinebonus Maçka G-Mall. A full program is available on the !f Istanbul website, along with detailed descriptions of the films being screened. In addition, there will be a series of special screenings, talks, panels, workshops, and concerts over the course of the festival, at various Istanbul clubs, restaurants, galleries, and cultural centers. Information about these events can be found on the !f Istanbul website.

Tickets range from 7 TL to 16 TL, and can be purchased starting February 3rd at www.mybilet.com (where there is a 10\\\\\% early bird discount from the 3rd to the 5th); by credit card starting February 6th at Turkuazzo and most AFM locations throughout the city; and by cash or credit card starting February 11th at the cinemas where the films will be screened (except for Cinebonus Maçka G-Mall, where they will be sold on the day of screening).

AFM Budak Caddebostan; Caddebostan Kültür Merkezi, Haldun Taner Sok. No:11, Caddebostan; P: (0216) 358 02 02

AFM Fitaş; İstiklal Cad. Fitaş Pasajı, Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 345 62 45

AFM İstinyePark; İstinye Bayırı Cad. İstinye; P: (0212) 345 62 45

Cinebonus Maçka G-Mall; Kadırgalar Cad. No.3 Vişnezade Mahallesi, Maçka; P: (0212) 232 44 40

SALT Beyoğlu; İstiklal Caddesi 136, Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 377 42 00

Babylon; Asmalı Mescit Mh. Şehbender Sk 3; P: (0212) 292 73 68

Ghetto; Kamer Hatun Caddesi 10, Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 251 75 01

Kiki; Sıraselviler Cad. No: 42, Cihangir; P: (0212) 243 53 73

Tütün Deposu; Lüleci Hendek Caddesi Koltukçular Çıkmazı No.1, Tophane; P: (0212) 292 39 56

Zencefil; Kurabiye Sok. No:3, Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 243 82 34

Tucked away in the tiny village of Ulupelit 45 minutes away from Istanbul, Lavanda is a family-owned haven where 13 cozy rooms await city dwellers, embellished with a country house atmosphere, the comfort of your own home, and expansive views.

This family-owned boutique hotel serves to complement the busy Istanbul life, allowing Istanbulites to wind down, relax, and master the art of doing nothing. The hotel is complete with uniquely designed rooms, a state-of-the-art restaurant, a heavenly spa, and the breathtaking beauty of nature.

Whether you like to pamper or break a sweat, Lavanda promises a dose of much-deserved downtime.

The Food

Even if you can’t pull yourself away from the city for an entire weekend, spending a few hours at Lavanda is well worth the drive. The best way to enjoy the hotel is to go there on a near-empty stomach and indulge in the refined Mediterranean cuisine of the restaurant.

One of the reasons why all the dishes at Lavanda are so delicious is that only the best ingredients are used. The Black Trumpet Mushroom is picked in Ulupelit village, chestnuts come from Zonguldak, artichokes make their way from Çeşme, and foie gras comes all the way from France. Chef Emre Şen even has a spice garden where he grows basil, rosemary, tarragon, and a variety of other spices.

You can adventure through the menu with their tasting menu or the a la carte menu. On a recent visit, we opted for the tasting menu, which started off with a not-to-be-missed chestnut and mushroom soup made with chestnuts from Zonguldak, morel mushrooms, and black truffles. The tuna tartar (with sourdough crisps, wild thyme, and pine nuts) and mushroom & goat cheese fondue topped with slow poached egg that followed were utter perfection. After the prosciutto-filled home-made ravioli with pear, gorgonzola, and walnuts, we had a refreshing lime sorbet. The highlight of the menu for meat lovers was the chevon (slow-cooked for 10 hours), with grainy mustard mashed potatoes and asparagus.

The Wine

There is an extensive wine list including selections from Germany, Italy, France, Turkey, Australia, the United States, South Africa, Spain, Portugal, New Zealand, Argentine, and Chile. A welcoming surprise is the inclusion of two selections of white wine from Greece. If you feel overwhelmed by the options or don’t want to go through the 10-page-long wine list, ask your waiter to pair your food with a bottle of wine.

What to Do Once You’re there?

Lavanda is the ideal I-left-the-world-behind hotel - you know, birds chirping, wind brushing through leaves, fresh air, and an inviting landscape. You can cozy up with a cup of tea or savor a glass of fine wine or cognac by the fireplace. After you’re slightly tipsy, try your hand at billiards in the game room, or sober up with a walk in the forest or bike through what seems like the wilderness to a true urbanite. If it’s warm enough, take a dip in the pool. Nearby facilities can satisfy all your outdoorsy cravings, with a rally track, hunting grounds, and a club for adventure sports like hiking, ATV, and paintball.

The Spa

When you’re ready to retreat back into inaction, pamper yourself at the spa. Get a facial treatment with Darphin products or let the Balinese therapists transport you to another dimension with Ayurvedic, Hawaiian, Balinese, Shiatsu, Thai, Swedish, Reflexology, or hot stone massages. But whatever you do, don’t miss out on the sauna and jacuzzi complete with a view of the forest!

Make it a Romantic Getaway for Two

Anyone wanting to woo their better half in an intimate setting should consider a romantic getaway at Lavanda. Cuddle under a blanket, bond over your shared passion for great food, and just enjoy the company of each other. And do not forget about the jacuzzi!

How to Get there

Cross from Europe to Asia over the Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge, take the Şile exit and keep going straight. After driving 7-8km, you’ll pass through Çekmeköy. Another 15km later, you’ll pass through Ömerli. You’ll see a sign for Ulupelit (see the photo above) - take that exit. You’ll come across a large mosque where you’ll need to turn right. Soon after, you’ll see a small pinkish sign for Lavanda – just follow that and you’ll reach the hotel. Just watch out for cows on the road and keep in mind that they won't back up, you'll have to move around them.

Lavanda Boutique Hotel & Restaurant; Ulupelit Köyü Seçkin Sokak No. 2, Şile; P: (0216) 736 56 40. For more details, check out the hotel's website here.

This year – the 40th anniversary of İKSV – the festival will feature 23 unique concerts from May 31st to June 29th, at eight different locations. In addition to the Aya İrini Müzesi (Hagia Irene Museum), which has been a venue for the festival since its inception, the concerts will take place at the Haliç Congress Center, the Lütfi Kırdar International Convention and Exhibition Center, the Dutch Consulate, the Süreyya Opera House, Cemal Reşit Rey Concert Hall, the Rectorate of Istanbul University, and the Istanbul Archaeological Museums.

The special theme for this year’s festival is “Hope and Heroes,” with performances of works like Beethoven’s Emperor Concerto and Eroica Symphony, Strauss’s Don Quixote, and Ravel’s Piano Concerto for Left Hand, specially composed for pianist, WWI veteran, and right-arm amputee Paul Wittgenstein. Another special concert, “Women Heroes of Music,” will feature pieces by female composers both Turkish and international, past and present, from Clara Schumann and Fanny Mendelssohn to Sofia Gubaidulina.

Other highlights include world premieres of original works commissioned for the festival: Turkish pianist/composer Fazıl Say’s Mesopotamia Symphony and Georgian composer Giya Kancheli’s New Symphonic Opus. There will also be a concert of pieces by Berg, Bartók, and Liszt by French pianist Hélène Grimaud, who will be making her first appearance at the festival. The festival’s opening concert at the Haliç Congress Center will feature a performance of Beethoven’s Ninth Symphony by the Borusan Istanbul Philharmonic Orchestra under the direction of Sascha Goetzel.

The full program of concerts is now available online on IKSV’s website. Tickets, ranging in price from 30 TL to 400 TL, can be purchased from Biletix and IKSV, and will also be available for purchase during the festival at booths on the grounds of the Hagia Irene Museum.

Festival Highlights:

Women Heroes of Music

On June 8, a concert dedicated to pioneering female musicians in Turkey as well as those lighting up the international music scene will take you through the sentimental pieces of Dilhayat Kalfa, Ethel Smyth, Fehime Sultan, Fanny Mendelssohn, Neveser Kökdeş, Leyla Saz, Amy Beach, Clara Schumann, Radife Erten, Lili Boulanger, Sofia Gubaidulina, and Kevser Hanım at the Süreyya Opera House.

Conducted by Hakan Şensoy, the Istanbul Chamber Orchestra will be playing with a female-only cast, consisting of Cihat Aşkın on violin, Cana Gürmen on piano, Şehvar Beşiroğlu on qanun, Neva Özgen onkemenche, Birol Yayla on tambur, İvan Çelak on accordion, and Yaprak Sayar and Pervin Çakar on vocals.

Giya Kancheli: A World Premiere

Pioneering Giorgian composer Giya Kancheli will present the world premiere of his symphonic piece, commissioned by the festival, on June 11 at the Hagia Irene Museum. This concert was supposed to feature the late cellist Benyamin Sönmez, who passed away towards the end of 2011, but will instead be dedicated to Sönmez. The long-awaited symphonic piece will be presented by the Borusan Istanbul Philharmonic Orchestra, conducted by Andres Mustonen. The Warsaw Philharmonic Choir, Georgian countertenor Mamuka Gaganidze, soloist Gidon Kremer on viola, and soloist Giedre Dirvanauskaite on cello will also take part in the concert. The night’s program will include Giya Kancheli’s Diplipito for Cello, New Symphonic Opus, and Styx for Viola.

Deutsches Symphonie Orchester Berlin

On June 16, the Deutsches Symphonie Orchester Berlin, conducted by Sir Roger Norrington, will take the stage at the Lütfi Kırdar Convention & Exhibition Centre with piano virtuoso Hüseyin Sermet, under the “Hope and Heroes” theme of the festival. The night’s program will consist of Felix Mendelssohn-Bartholdy’s Overture to Ruy Blas, Op.95, MWV M11, Maurice Ravel’s Piano Concerto for the Left Hand in D Major, and Ludwig van Beethoven’s Symphony in E flat Major, No.3, Op.55, “Eroica”,which impeccably communicates the idea of heroism through victory and tragedy.

Don Quixote From ISSO & Daniel Müller-Schott

On June 20,the Istanbul State Symphony Orchestra, conducted by ChristophAltstaedt, will perform with Daniel Müller-Schott, the new cello star who frequently performs in the world’s most prestigious festivals. Performed at the Hagia Irene Museum, the night’s repertoire will includeRichard Strauss’s EinHeldenleben, Op.40 and Don Quixote, Op. 35.

Hélène Grimaud

Hélène Grimaud is one of the most prominent pianists of our time. She will perform in Istanbul for the first time on June 22, at the Hagia Irene Museum, as part of the Istanbul Music Festival. Grimaud regularly takes the stage at important international festivals, performs with prominent orchestras, such as the Berlin Philharmonic and the Munich Philharmonic, and collaborates with some of the greatest conductors, including Kurt Masur, Bernard Haitink, and Esa-PekkaSalonen. Due to health issues, Grimaud couldn’t make it to Istanbul in 2006 and 2008, but she is finally here to play Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart’s Piano Sonata in A minor, No.8, KV310/300d, Alban Berg’s Piano Sonata, Op.1, BélaBartók’s Romanian Folk Dances, SZ56, and Franz Liszt’s Piano Sonata in B minor, S178.

A World Premiere by Fazıl Say

Turkish piano virtuoso and composer Fazıl Say will be performing with the Borusan Istanbul Philharmonic Orchestra, conducted by Gürer Aykal on June 23 at the Haliç KongreMerkezi. The concert program will consist of Beethoven’s Piano Concerto in E flat Major, No.5, Op.73, “Emperor”, and the world premiere of Say’s Symphony, No.2, Op.38, “Mesopotamia”, which was commissioned by the Istanbul Music Festival. Say will be accompanied by Bülent Evcil on bass flute, Çağatay Akyol on bass recorder, and Carolina Eyck on theremin.

This article was updated on 4 May, 2012.

This is a jam-packed sightseeing area par excellence. Although there are plenty of shops, restaurants and bars, many are pretty run-of-the-mill, catering for tourists on rushed trips and tight budgets. In contrast, some of the city’s finest and most interesting hotels including the Four Seasons Sultanahmet, the Ottoman Hotel Imperial, Yaşmak Sultan Hotel, Burkçin Suites and the Ayasofya Konakları can be found in Sultanahmet, offering their guests not just superb views from their roof terraces but also easy access to the attractions. More hotels to suit all budgets can be found in neighboring Cankurtaran.

Sultanahmet in history

When the Greek colonist Byzas first founded Byzantium, the settlement that was to become Constantinople and then Istanbul, he chose the tip of the peninsula that juts out into the Bosphorus and the Sea of Marmara. It was here that the Byzantines built their Great Palace, the remains of which lie beneath modern Sultanahmet and pop up occasionally, and most unmissably, in the Great Palace Mosaics Museum, beside the Arasta Bazaar; and it was here that the Emperor Justinian had the great church of Hagia Sophia built in 537. When the Ottomans captured the city in 1453 they were keen to emphasize continuity with the past, so Sultan Mehmed the Conqueror began work on what became Topkapı Palace on the same site originally chosen by Byzas.

It wasn’t until the 17^th century that the area acquired its modern name, when Sultan Ahmed I commissioned Sedefkar Mehmed Ağa to build the great mosque facing Hagia Sophia that still bears his name (although it’s much better known to visitors as the Blue Mosque). Aside from the new Sabancı Merkez Camii in Adana, it’s the only mosque in Turkey to feature six minarets.

Sultanahmet continued in importance through until the 19^th century, when the artist and archaeologist Osman Hamdi Bey commissioned the main building of the Archaeological Museum in the grounds of Topkapı Palace. At that time an imposing Palace of Justice closed off the east side of Ayasofya Square, with a prison round the corner in the building that now houses the splendid Four Seasons Sultanahmet Hotel. The site is slated to become an Archaeological Park although legal problems have delayed its opening.

What to see in Sultanahmet

If you only have three days to explore the area you should probably head first for the collection of kiosks, courtyards and gardens that make up Topkapı Palace, allowing a minimum of four hours to see the highlights. Most people will want to make straight for the Treasury to gawp at the sultans’ egg-sized rubies, emeralds and diamonds, as well as at thrones and cradles made entirely from gold. Romantics will love the Harem, the lavishly decorated private quarters where the sultans’ concubines and children lived under the ever-watchful eye of their eunuch guards. Allow time to admire the hall displaying the sultans’ kaftans, and the kitchens with their extensive porcelain collection. The view of the confluence of the Bosphorus and the Sea of Marmara from the İftar Canopy, where the sultans used to break their fast during Ramadan, is absolutely magical.

Just steps away from the palace, Hagia Sophia was the largest church in the world at the time that it was completed in 537, and it is still one of the most splendid with its soaring dome and glittering Byzantine mosaics. After exploring it, pop round to the side of the building to admire the tombs of some of the sultans of the Ottoman Golden Age. A Carpet Museum is due to open in the İmaret (Soup Kitchen) that was added along with the minarets when the church was turned into a mosque in 1453.

In the corner of the square facing Hagia Sophia is the Ayasofya Hürrem Sultan Hamamı(Ayasofya Haseki Hürrem Hamamı),the city’s single most spectacular Turkish bath, designed by Sinan for Roxelana (Haseki Hürrem), the much-loved wife of Sultan Süleyman the Magnificent, in 1556. Behind it stands the splendid, soaring pile of grey marble, tumbling domes, and minarets that is the Sultanahmet (Blue) Mosque, still very much in use today although tourists are welcome to admire its tiled interior outside prayer times.

Running alongside the Blue Mosque is the Hippodrome, where Byzantine chariot races attracted a fanatical following. Walk down its spine to admire Kaiser Wilhelm’s Fountain and the Egyptian Obelisk, and then cross the road to visit the marvellous Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts, housed in a 16^th-century palace. Until the new Carpet Museum opens this is home to the city’s finest collection of Turkish carpets.

Off the west side of Sultanahmet Square is the Yerebatan (Basilica) Cistern, one of Istanbul’s most unexpected and yet most romantic attractions: a vast vaulted space held up by 336 columns that once acted as an underground reservoir. Don’t miss the upside-down Medusa’s head reused as a column base, proof that the builders regarded fine old Roman sculptures as no more than chunks of reusable building material.

Istanbul’s take on the British Museum is the Archaeology Museum, off the path running down from Topkapı Palace to Gülhane Park. The oldest and most interesting part is the Çinili Köşk (Tiled Pavilion), dating back to the 15^th century and containing a superb collection of Turkish ceramics. In the main building the finest exhibit is probably the spendid Alexander Sarcophagus, brought here from Sidon in the days when Lebanon was still part of the Ottoman Empire. It dates from the 4^th century BC.

On the south side of the Blue Mosque, the Arasta Bazaar is Sultanahmet’s most interesting shopping street, with a string of tiny boutiques selling everything from antiques to contemporary ceramics. Two particularly interesting shops to look out for are Jennifer’s Hamam, which sells hand-woven towels and bathrobes sourced from all around Turkey; and Cocoon, which sells colourful modern takes on the ancient art of felt-making.

Where to eat in Sultanahmet

Köfte(meatballs) are a staple of the Turkish diet and the simpleTarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi Selim Ustaon Divan Yolu is the perfect place to try them out withpiyaz(white beans), big hunks of bread and some soothingayran(a salty yogurt drink). Just up the road,Çiğdem Pastanesialways has a mouth-watering choice of cakes in the window. Pushing the boat out, theSeasonsRestaurantin the Four Seasons Sultanahmet is a top-notch place to eat international cuisine whileMatbah, at the Ottoman Hotel Imperial, focuses on Ottoman cuisine.

Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi Selim Usta;Divan Yolu No. 4; P: (0212) 511 39 60

Çiğdem Pastanesi;Divan Yolu No. 62/A; P: (0212)526 88 59

Seasons;Four Seasons Hotel, Tevkifhane Sokak No. 1; P: (0212) 638 82 00,

Matbah;Ottoman Hotel Imperial, Caferiye Sokak No. 6/1; P: (0212)513 61 50

During this time, she began to travel extensively and collect pieces of ethnic art and jewelry. She says that one of the things that she appreciates most about African art is that everything has a function, and even the most beautiful objects are made to be used, to have a purpose in daily life. Upon her return to Istanbul, Verda started working in the shipping sector, but eventually took the big step to leave the corporate world and start her own jewelry company, Tohum. Tohum means seed in Turkish, and the pieces reflect the simple beauty found in nature. The Tohum philosophy celebrates the individuality of the wearer. Each piece is a one-of-a-kind object inspired by the natural beauty of the materials used as well as the personality of the person for whom it is designed, and is often inspired by ethnic adornment pieces.

During her travels, Verda discovered unusual items, such as 19th-century West African trade shells, and wanted to make these beautiful items wearable. Therefore, her first pieces were built from old stones and shells, fossils, and crystals. Some pieces are subtler, while others use more striking colors and materials, such as fossilized coral or an unusual shell known as Hippo Tooth. She only uses 925 carat silver, not gold, in her designs, because her pieces are meant for every woman.In fact, one of her favorite pieces in her collection is a very simple ring made with an almond still in its shell, encased in a thin band of silver. The almond itself has no real value but it is still a strikingly beautiful piece thanks to the use of natural materials and the simplicity of the design.

Although it was not easy to transition from being an employee to being an entrepeneur, Verda has enjoyed a considerable amount of success over a relatively short period of time.Soon after founding her company, she put together an Inspiration Exhibition for Pearlfisher, a London-based design and branding company, and later on the same company designed her brand for her.Verda strongly feels that Tohum should not be a trendy brand, and instead focuses on bespoke pieces. All of the pieces are handcrafted, and while Verda herself has studied jewelry making, she currently concentrates on the business end of the company. Her pieces are all made in a workshop in the Grand Bazaar, where she works with an Armenian craftsman who has been in the same workshop for the past 30 years.

I asked Verda some questions about Istanbul and what makes the city special for her:

What is your earliest memory of Istanbul?

Going to Sultanahmet as a young girl, visiting the Archeology Museum, Yerebatan Saray, and listening to classical music concerts at Aya Irini Church.

What do you love about the city?

The mixture that you have here – Istanbul is a spicy city.

What do you least love?

That there are too many people here who are not aware of what is going on around them.

What are your favorite neighborhoods in Istanbul?

The old city – Sultanahmet, especially early in the morning, because of the textures, feelings, and the Aya Sofya. Also Arnavutköy and Teşvikiye/Maçka.

Favorite Turkish foods?

Being more of a vegetable person, I like dishes like Türlü, but also Patlıcanlı Kebab.

What’s your favorite place to eat breakfast?

Karaköy Namlı and Lokanta Maya in Karaköy.

What are your favorite restaurants?

Karaköy Lokantasi and X Restaurant.

What food do you miss the most when away from Istanbul?

The air that I breathe.

Favorite view in the city?

Crossing the Galata Bridge going to work in Sultanahmet. Every day I appreciate it.

Favorite break in Istanbul?

Having tea at Sepetçiler Kasrı.

Favorite Turkish designers?

Hussein Chalayan and my uncle, the interior designer Kalef Alaton, who has sadly passed away.

Were you an artistic child?

I don’t know. Not necessarily, but maybe. I was always different, different things interested me.

Do you have any new projects you are planning for the future?

There are currently no galleries in Istanbul that specialize in African art. That is something that I would like to work on, to open such a space.

For more info on Tohum, please click here!

Nish Bazaar; Garanti Mahallesi Yanarsu Sk. No:18/2B, Etiler; P: (0212) 265 31 84

Billed as a neighborhood bar and bistro, Baylo Bistro & Bar was opened by a team of two ladies, Güldal Seçener and Neslihan Sağlamer, who saw a need for down-to-earth drinking and dining in Istanbul. Located on Meşrutiyet Caddesi (a few steps away from Bird), this is an ideal date destination, with seductive lighting, historic setting, and tables-for-two (perfect for tête-à-têtes).

The building that Baylo is situated in was built in the 1870s by the Kamondo family (you may have heard of them from the famous Kamondo staircase in Karaköy). Before Baylo opened its doors in October 2011, the building went under a serious three-year restoration. Now, Baylo’s interior is the ideal mix of the old and the new: the ceiling and walls carry the worn-out glory of the old days, the antique mirror by the bar gives a sense of beautiful imperfection, while the modern seating and tableware remind us that we’re in fact dining in the 21^st century.

One of the highlights of the décor is the use of aged brass, which is particularly appealing at the bar. Large, white candles and golden candlesticks are placed all around the venue. An earlier work of the young Turkish artist Lara Kamhi hangs on one wall, a long mirror with a black-and-white photo of old Istanbul in the middle hangs on another.

Right by that mirror is the only table that can seat 8-10 people. Inside, by the bar, there are three tables for two. The outdoor dining area, which has five round tables for 2-4 people, is well-heated, so all the tables are filled, even on cold days. The bar, which features black-and-brown bar stools by Aziz Sarıyer of Derin Design, is designed to allow for comfortable seating while eating.

The venue carries a slightly nostalgic, quite romantic, and all in all, a very comforting feel - all thanks to Bülent Güngör of B-Design. When you step inside, Baylo’s interior centers on the bar, yet the menu offers much more than finger food. The something-for-everyone menu offers soup of the day (which is always something out of the ordinary like chestnut, pea, carrot, or beetroot soup), salads (caprese salad, goat cheese salad, and salmon salad), charcuterie plate, mains (Super Hamburger, Chicken Schnitzel, Pork Sausage) and more, all prepared by the young and talented Berk Baysan.

On our visit to Baylo on a Thursday evening, we went for the mixed charcuterie plate, which was a delicious serving of gouda, roquefort, brie, parmesan, gruyere cheese from Kars, bresaola, prosciutto, ham, smoked beef, and Italian Salami. This generous charcuterie plate was a great starter for two. If you’re a vegetarian, you can opt for the cheese plate.

Following an appetizing mix of cheese and meat, I had the beetroot soup, which, when sprinkled with a generous amount of parmesan, is truly divine. For mains, I opted for the Tagliata. Topped with fresh arugula, the beef tenderloin slices were cooked to perfection. The home-made fries that it came with were scrumptious – they are on the thin line between fries and chips – round and very crispy, with a surprisingly soft center. Yum times ten!

Another item that is sure to dazzle is the Super Hamburger, made with a variety of spices and served in ciabatta bread with home-made fries. Since the venue is quite new, additions to the menu are soon to be finalized – like the fırın makarna (oven-baked pasta), a typical home-made dish, which will be offered with a Baylo twist.

Much like the menu, the crowd is a pleasant mix as well - mostly 30+ during the week but slightly younger on weekends. The venue starts to fill up at around 7:30pm and there’s a nice circulation from then on. Everybody is smartly dressed without being particularly over-dressed, casual but not in an I-just-rolled-out-of-bed look. The venue has a steady stream of its frequenters, neighborhood professionals, and tourists - in for a cocktail with a colleague by the bar, dinner and longed-for chats, or the glorious charcuterie plate and a glass of wine.

A rotating group of five female DJs are in charge of the turntable on Fridays and Saturdays (and sometimes during the week), playing whatever suits the mood on a particular day, from 80s to lounge, from indie rock to nu jazz. A London-based DJ company is in charge of the music when the girls are not around, playing a range of unfamiliar songs that instantly feel familiar. Although the venue never turns into a full-blown club, the music picks up after 10:30pm, and people start to dance around, especially on weekends.

If you’re in for the post-dinner bar scene, try the Green Apple Martini, which is ideal for those after a sweet cocktail, or the Baylo Rose, made with prosecco and martini rosato, if you’re after something bitter.

If you live or work near Şişhane, make sure you try this inviting neighborhood bar for an after-work get-together. If not, rest assured that Baylo’s cuisine and atmosphere create a lush pairing that is well-worth the trip.

Baylo Bistro & Bar, Asmalımescit Mahallesi Meşrutiyet Caddesi No. 107A, Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 243 60 18

The Istanbul Foundation for Culture and Arts (IKSV) is celebrating its 40^th anniversary this year with an exciting line up of special performances and projects. Apart from its usual extensive list of festivals, including the film, theatre, music and jazz festivals, IKSV has also planned some special performances and projects to honor this milestone.

IKSV is an independent, non-profit organization founded 40 years ago by 17 businessmen and art appreciators under the leadership of Dr. Nejat F. Eczacıbaşı with the goal of presenting the finest examples of global culture and arts to Istanbulites, and to transform the city into a center for international arts and culture.

IKSV’s first arts festival, then called the International Istanbul Festival, was held in 1973. While the focus was on classical music in the early years, over time and as public interest grew, the festival expanded to include film screenings, theatre productions, jazz and ballet performances, and art exhibitions held in historic venues. Today IKSV organizes four international festivals, two biennials, and many more exclusive events throughout the year. This year IKSV will also introduce Istanbul’s first Design Biennial.

In honor of their 40 year anniversary, IKSV is preparing a special book that will outline IKSV’s transformation and important milestones in its development, as well as memories of the organization. Contributors to the book will include IKSV’s founders, employees, supporters, and artists. There will also be two special events. The first will be a performance by La Furadels Baus, the renowned Catalan theatrical group who will perform the world premiere of their new project “Istanbul, Istanbul” commissioned by IKSV, on June 21 and June 22. The second performance will be held on September 27; the Berlin Philharmonic Orchestra will perform at the Haliç Convention Center, conducted by Sir Simon Rattle with internationally-acclaimed Turkish musicians Efe and Fora Baltacıgil partaking in the performance.

In parallel to these events, IKSV will also organize events in honor of the 400^th anniversary of the establishment of diplomatic ties between Turkey and the Netherlands. These will include performances by the Nederlands Dans Theatre group, known as one of the most innovative modern dance companies in the world, on June 14 and 15. There will also be special initiatives throughout the year celebrating “2012 Year of Chinese Culture in Turkey” including a special selection of Chinese films that will appear in the film festival and a performance by the Beijing Opera at the 18^th Istanbul Theatre Festival.

While the initial goal of IKSV was to organize an international arts festival in Istanbul, it is clear from its very long list of achievements and current festivals and events that it has far surpassed this first goal. Looking back over the past 40 years, it is clear how instrumental IKSV has been in putting Istanbul on the global cultural map.

When: December 20 – February 19

Where: Rahmi Koç Museum;Hasköy Caddesi No 27 Sütlüce; P:(0212) 369 66 00

How much: From the venue: 12.50 TL; 6 TL (students).

When:Fri - January 20, 2012 / 08:00 PM

Where: Tim Show Center;Maslak Show Center Büyükdere Caddesi Derbent Mevkii Maslak; P:(0212) 286 66 86

How much: From Biletix: 80 TL; 60 TL; 40 TL; 30 TL.

This medium-sized shop is overflowing with colorful objects, and it may take a while to adjust to the overwhelming array of kaftans, textiles, and decorative pieces.

If you’re a history buff, you may spend a considerable amount of time looking through the wide range of Ottoman-era textiles, clothing, hand-woven rugs, and accessories, which date back to the 17^th, 18^th, and 19^th centuries. Collectors will love the wide range of silk kaftans as well as bundles, belts, pouches, jackets, and bedspreads.

If you’re in the market for kaftans, make sure you ask to see the suzani kaftans. If you’re not a history buff, you may not know that suzani is a type of colorful Central Asian decorative textile that often features flowers, fruits, and leaves as design motifs. In addition to kaftans, this beautiful textile is also used for rugs, pillow cases, and bedspreads, available in cotton as well as silk.

One of the highlights of the store is their range of ikat products: you’ll find it as plates, kaftans, and fabric. Pay attention to the armchairs in the shop, which feature ikat as upholstery - a great way to add an ethnic touch to your living room.

If you want to adorn the walls of your home with such delicate artwork, take a look at their small-sized textiles (featuring silk kaftans and suzani), which can be framed and exhibited as beautiful pieces of art.

The decorative objects in the shop come in the shapes of fez, Mevlana, kaftan, and pomegranate (available in ceramic and copper).

Muhlis Günbattı; Perdahçılar Caddesi No. 48, Grand Bazaar; P: (0212) 511 65 62

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You may ask, “What sets it apart?” Well, where do I begin? The Buddha-inspired décor, the soothing little water fountains, the meditative music, the exceptional service, or the spacious interior that makes you feel like you’ve just entered the land of relaxation never to return back to the hustle and bustle of daily life? The list could go on.

Instead, I’ll let you in on the secrets of Amrita Spa & Wellness, and let you explore it for yourself. And, if I may, I strongly suggest you buy a gift card for your significant other, sibling, parent, or whoever you want to earn brownie points from. They will thank you for weeks!

What are youroptions?

They’ve got something for all your needs – body, mind, and soul: facial treatments (firming age repair, deep cleanse facial, instant eye repair, peeling), exfoliating and detoxifying body treatments, slimming and firming packages, hand and feet treatments, a range of massages (aromatherapy, Thai, Shiatsu, reflexology, hot stones), and much much more. If you’re a beginner, pick a 50-minute massage. If you’re an advanced spa-goer, choose one of their packages – the five-day Serenity Package that combines hamam, aromatic bath, Balinese massage, Ayurvedic massage, body wrap, and several other treatments sounds too good to pass up!

Any other facilities?

Definitely. Your spa day doesn’t start and end with your treatment – there are many other ways to keep pampering yourself. Try the sauna, steam room, Turkish bath, tropical shower, ice fountain, Jacuzzi, indoor pool, fitness center, and relaxation room. Beware though – at the end of the day you may feel alienated from this overly-relaxed being walking around in your body.

Who to go with?

Going alone is an ideal way to leave the world outside. But if you want your spa day to be fun, arrange your next appointment for your soon-to-be-married friend’s Hen Party. Alternatively, turn your spa day into a romantic getaway in the city, and take your sweetheart with you for a private couple’s hamam.

What to do before you go?

Make sure that you eat something light a few hours before your therapy session – you don’t want to lie on a full stomach. More importantly, leave your worries at home or at the office.

What to bring with you?

You’ll be provided with pretty much everything – towels, shampoo, shower gel, body lotion, hair dryer, slippers... If you don’t want to go nude in the hamam, bring a bikini along. For the post-therapy relaxation at the relaxation room (where you can nibble on dried fruits and nuts, hydrate with lemon or cucumber water, and dream away under the sky-like ceiling lying in a water bed), create a meditative playlist on your iPod. You may also want to bring a consciousness elevating book with you.

What will you get out of this?

The saint: You’ll learn to be comfortable with your body. There’ll be a lot of touching involved.

The sinner: There is water everywhere (pretty much in every physical form that water comes in), lots of soap, hypnotizing smells, and soothing body oils that even your sins will be washed away.

The workaholic: You’ll get a few hours away from your smart phone, in complete isolation from the world and the worries of the office. You’ll learn to let go, if only for a few hours.

The spiritual warrior: You’ll have a serious exercise in controlling the uncontrollable stream of thoughts during your massage session – surely a fine way to meditate!

4 Ways to Prolong the Relaxation

1. Stop by Swiss Gourmet on your way out and buy a box of chocolate. It’s one of the highest quality chocolates you’ll find in Istanbul.

2. Arrange your therapy session so that you don’t get stuck in rush hour traffic when you leave. There is nothing like Istanbul traffic to kill the buzz.

3. Arrange a limo and enjoy a glass of bubbly on your way home.

4. Postpone your entrance back into the real world – spend the night at the hotel and order room service.

Amrita Spa & Wellness; Swissôtel the Bosphorus Istanbul, Bayıldım Caddesi No. 2, Maçka; P: (0212) 326 11 00

Pizza:Pizza Picco is a reasonably-priced eatery that delivers your food while it’s still hot. Don’t expect to find the finest prosciutto on your pizza, but rest assured that you’ll get a rather good one. The Robespierre Pizza comes highly recommended. And we suggest you try the Lasagna alla Bolognese, too – it’s very, very good. To find the branch that delivers to your area, click here.

Burger:Flame-kissed patties, gooey cheese, corn relish, home-made fries...juicy indeed! To enjoy a quality burger, just order what looks the most appetizing to you on Burger House’s menu. If you want to order a side, go for the haloumi stick. To find the branch that delivers to your area, click here.

The Burger:Order Lokum from Nusr-Et Burger. We don’t have the words to describe how delicious it is. Just order one and see for yourself. Call (0212) 265 45 02 to place an order.

Asian:Little China & Sushi is a bit on the pricey side, but offers high-quality Asian food for those craving the classics like hot & sour soup, sweet & sour chicken, spring rolls, fried rice, spicy tuna roll, and california roll. Call (0212) 263 17 15 to place an order. If ordering with a group, consider Quick China. It’s not only cheaper but it also offers varied selections of Thai, Chinese, and Japanese cuisine. To find the branch that delivers to your area, click here.

Fish:If you don’t want your entire house to smell like fish for an entire week, order grilled fish from Adem Baba. This is also a great option if you want to have a rakı-fish combo but don’t want to go out. Call (0212) 263 29 33 to place an order.