Istanbul’s food culture and establishments have undergone a tremendous transformation over the last two decades. Today, the transformation process is still ongoing due to both the city’s own dynamics and global trends. For instance, 20 years ago it was almost impossible to find ice cream in winter in Istanbul. Your best bet would have been Moda. Almost every neighborhood had its street markets, and a significant part of food shopping would be done at these markets. Neighborhood grocers outnumbered supermarkets, and their shelves would be stacked with local products. During “Local Products Week” celebrations in elementary school, we would eat tangerines brought from home in our lunchboxes. 

Then everything changed, for better and for worse. Eating acquired a new meaning beyond feeling full and satisfied. It became the essence of socializing, having a good time, discovering world cultures, and, sometimes, of social status. Cooking and wine-tasting courses, gastronomy tours, specialty gourmet shops, world-famous brands, excellent restaurants representing world cuisine, foreign chefs, and a whole new terminology invaded our lives. 

On the one hand, our horizons widened and the growing sector called for more staff, equipment, and ingredients. Chefs became trendy. Expressions like “searing”, “reduction”, and “…served on a bed of…” entered the vernacular. Organic products and lollo rosso lettuce entered our lives. Even those chefs obsessed with world cuisines sought inspiration from local products. Pekmez (grape molasses), nar ekşisi (pomegranate molasses), and local cheeses came closer to getting the attention they deserve. Movements like Slow Food as well as civil initiatives attracted wider interest. On the other hand, seasonality decreased, and flavors changed and became blander. Even though a wider variety of ingredients is available today, more effort must be made to recapture earlier flavors and eat a healthy diet.

Some of my favorite places for food shopping — not only as a chef and cooking-school founder, but also for my own kitchen — have been the same for years. Some places have been added to this list, and some places have closed down due to financial reasons. (I especially miss the mastic-flavored Easter bread from the Konak patisserie in Kurtuluş.) It’s very difficult to survive and become corporate in Turkey. In that sense, the 20th anniversary of The Guide Istanbul magazine is a very important and exciting occasion. With my sincere congratulations, here’s a selection of my favorite food shops…

Üç Yıldız Şekerlemecisi is located in the Beyoğlu fish market, and, with its Turkish Delights, hard candies, and jams displayed in hundred-year-old jam jars, is a delight for both the eyes and the taste buds. Dudu Odaları Sokak No.7 Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 293 81 70

The right address for delicious mezes is Tuşba in Kurtuluş. Olive oil dishes, stuffed grape leaves, pickles, mezes… everything here is scrumptious. Ergenekon Caddesi No. 53 Pangaltı; P: (0212) 247 13 42 

The most delicious tavuk göğsü (roughly translated as “chicken breast dessert”) can be found at Özkonak in Cihangir, where it is made fresh with buffalo milk. Akarsu Caddesi No.46/B Cihangir; P: (0212) 249 13 07

Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi are probably everybody’s favorites when it comes to Turkish coffee, so don’t be too lazy to make the trek to Tahtakale. Tahmis Sokak No. 66 Eminönü; P: (0212) 522 00 80 

For dried fruits and nuts, the best place to go has always been Malatya Pazarı in the Spice Bazaar. Mısır Çarşısı No.40 Eminönü; P: (0212) 522 55 92 

For me, Imren Fishmonger just outside the Spice Bazaar is the best place for fresh and reliable seafood.

The Galatasaray Ciğercisi is a shop located in the Beyoğlu fish market that specializes in liver, as indicated by the name. But don’t be fooled; they also sell quail, duck, turkey, and goose when in season. 

Kurtuluş Damla Patisserie was my childhood favorite, particularly the caramel ice cream.

For all kind of spices, visit Ayfer Kaur in the Egyptian Spice Market. I would particularly recommend their sahlep, especially as there is so much poor quality sahlep available these days. Mısır Çarşısı içi No.7 Eminönü; P: (0212) 522 45 23