SALT Impresses Again with Ca`d`Oro

Yeşim Yemni / December 22, 2011

Ca`d`Oro is the latest restaurant by the Istanbul Doors Group, located within the newly opened SALT Galata building located in the historic Ottoman Bank on Bankalar Caddesi in Karaköy. The menu, designed by French chef Julien Maisonneuve, formerly of the London restaurant Tom Aikens, also a part of the Doors Group, consists of international cuisine peppered with Turkish classics.

 

The décor in the restaurant is very minimal and spare, contrasting with the classic architecture of the building itself, which was designed by architect Alexandre Vallaury and opened in 1892 as the official state bank of the Ottoman Empire. The restaurant’s modern interior was designed by Han Tümertekin, one of Turkey’s most acclaimed architects, and is spread across two floors, with a café section downstairs and a more formal restaurant upstairs.  In the cafe cool grey tones dominate, with marble floors, lights hanging from tubes, and a wall full of books behind Plexiglas – the collection of the late artist, writer, curator Hüseyin Bahri Alptekin. The slightly cold feel is lightened up a bit by the warm wood furniture and large staircase leading up to the more formal dining room with sweeping views across the Golden Horn. 

 

When it comes to the food, the menu offers a little bit of everything, without overextending itself. The breakfast offerings are mostly traditional Turkish, while the rest of the menu veers a bit more towards fusion, such as the Hamsi Tava (fried anchovies) which are served with a harissa aioli sauce or the Pide with roast beef. The menu includes a selection of sandwiches and pide, mains such as eggplant gratin, fish and chips, schnitzel and köfte, as well as salads. On a recent visit I opted for the crispy risotto with tomato for a starter, which had a nice and crunchy texture and deep flavor. For the main I had the grilled calamari salad in which the calamari is served cut into very thin strips on a bed of ribbon thin zucchini, grilled red and yellow peppers and mesclun salad, topped with pesto and toasted hazelnuts, a very successful dish with layers of flavors and textures.

 

Given the limited size of the menu, there dessert list is surprisingly long, and again offers a number of Turkish items with a twist, such as the kadayif with caramelized pumpkin. I ordered a classic European dessert, the Mont Blanc, which came served on a very large plate with ice cream and crushed pistachio on one side and the chestnut puree and meringues on the other - very delicious when eaten all together. With a many tempting and interesting looking items on the menu, Ca`d`Oro makes for an ideal break before taking in the artwork at SALT Galata. Ca'd'oro; SALT Galata, Bankalar Caddesi No.11 Karaköy; P: (0212) 243 82 92 

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