An esnaf lokantası (tradesmen’s restaurant) is a classic Turkish restaurant that offers cheap, filling, and delicious home-style cooking in a humble environment. Although Istanbul is filled with them, the emerging trend is the more stylish versions of these tradesmen’s restaurants that combine beautiful décors, quality food, and reasonable prices.

Located on a small street behind the Karaköy shipping docks right next to Lokanta Maya, Karaköy Lokantası is one such restaurant. The major differences between Karaköy Lokantası and regular tradesmen’s restaurants are that at Karaköy Lokantası the interior is upscale, the food is lighter, alcohol is served, and you can sip your espresso after lunch. Possibly the most striking detail about the restaurant’s interior is that all the tables are covered with white tablecloths. White tablecloths are often found at expensive, upper-scale restaurants that offer “serious” food—not Turkish home-cooking at least. But the addition of white tablecloths here is quite refreshing, and pays respect to the intricate flavors of Turkish cuisine.

Housed in a beautiful old building and spread over two floors, the restaurant’s interior is quite unique, featuring checkered floors, walls covered with turquoise tiles, and a wrought iron staircase. The décor carries a very modern love-it-or-hate-it feel, sprinkled with an Ottoman touch, and the restaurant feels very homey.

The warm atmosphere is probably due to owner Oral Bey’s passion for creating a restaurant that not only serves great food but also offers a friendly environment. In fact, he knows the names of almost everyone that walks through the front door and he takes the time to chat with all of them. And you can tell by Oral Bey’s interaction with the customers that they have talked many times before. That’s because Karaköy Lokantası is always filled with its frequenters.

The food at Karaköy Lokantası is even more impressive than the atmosphere. The lunch menu changes daily, but always features classic Turkish dishes. On a recent visit, we had a chance to sample quite a few dishes. The chicken soup that we started off with was quite tasty, perfect for those who want to warm up on a cold autumn day.  The etli lahana dolması (stuffed cabbage leaves with meat), served with yogurt, was nicely done. We also had patlıcan salatası (eggplant salad) followed by a platter of köfte (meatballs), ciğer (liver), and eggplant puree. The thinly sliced, perfectly grilled liver and the creamy eggplant puree were the highlights of our lunch.

Keep in mind that dinner is an entirely different story at Karaköy Lokantası, which is a tradesmen’s restaurant by day and Turkish tavern by night, offering a set menu of mezes, meat, and fish. 

Karaköy Lokantası; Kemankeş Caddesi No. 37A, Karaköy; P: (0212) 292 44 55

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