For some, eating fish in Istanbul calls to mind balık ekmek (fish sandwiches) bought from boats on the Golden Horn. For others, it’s a fish lunch at Anadolu Kavağı, or at a restaurant underneath the Galata bridge. While all of the above are certainly worth trying, they’re hardly the last word on the subject. Here are seven novel suggestions (five local fish delicacies, and two places to buy fresh fish) from The Guide’s editorial staff.
Çiroz
Çiroz is the Turkish word for mackerel that has been cured in salt, hung and dried, and marinated in vinegar. Served topped with fresh dill, it’s best purchased from Bebek Balık Evi in Bebek, or from Reşat Balık Market in the Galatasaray Balık Pazarı (Fish Market).
Lakerda
Lakerda, the so-called “Turkish sushi,” is made from bonito fish (a member of the tuna family), and is prepared through a lengthy curing process. It’s typically served as an appetizer with copious amounts of lemon juice and olive oil; The Guide recommends buying it from Bebek Balık Evi or Reşat Balık Market.
Caviar
This delicacy consisting of sturgeon roe has become a cliché for expensive, rarefied taste in food (as in the Shakespearean expression “caviar to the general.”) It’s delicious all the same. Caviar from Iran – in beluga and asietra varieties – can be purchased at Şütte in Etiler.
Bottarga
Bottarga, often known as the “poor man’s caviar” (being four times less expensive than the most affordable form of caviar) consists of the salted, dried, and cured eggs of the mullet fish, which have been coated in beeswax as a preservative. The Guide recommends you purchase this product at Reşat Balık Market.
Smoked salmon
No prizes for guessing what somon means in Turkish. While it may be difficult to find authentic lox (cured salmon) in Istanbul, expatriate New Yorkers can take consolation in the fact that the smoked salmon at Delicco in Üsküdar is very good. Bagels and cream cheese are optional.
Balıkev
A large, modern shopping mall is probably not the first place you’d expect to find a fish market. Nonetheless, at Balıkev in the İstinyePark shopping mall, you can buy your own fish, have it cooked for you on the spot to take home, or eat at Balıkev’s restaurant, which offers a number of unique dishes including salmon döner.
Balık Pazarı
If you still can’t make up your mind what kind of fish to try, just browse the stalls at the Balık Pazarı (fish market) next to Çiçek Pasajı, listen to the fishmongers advertising their wares, and pick whatever strikes your fancy. All kinds of seasonal fish are available here daily.
Bebek Balık Evi, Cevdetpaşa Caddesi No. 226, Bebek; P: (0212) 265 05 36
Reşat Balık Market, Sahne Sok. Balık Pazarı No:30, Galatasaray; P: (0212) 293 60 91
Şütte, Nispetiye Caddesi No. 114/A, Etiler; P: (0212) 263 66 56
Delicco, Ünalan Mahallesi Aşık Şenlik Sokak (Selvi Sokak) No.33B; P: (0542) 475 58 89
Balıkev, İstinyePark Shopping Mall, İstinye Bayırı Caddesi No. 73, İstinye; P: (0212) 345 57 74
Balık pazarı, Sahne Sokak, Galatasaray


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