The neighborhood of Samatya, located just a few train stops away from the central tourist areas of Sultanahmet and Eminönü is one of Istanbul’s forgotten treasures. But that is about to change.  The Tourist Research Association (TURAD), a leading tourism body in Turkey, has been heading a project designed to put this authentic Istanbul neighborhood back on the list of popular city sites, polishing up the hidden gem and putting it on display for the world to see and hoping to attract both Turkish and foreign visitors.

The first village at this site was established over 3000 years ago and the area has been continually inhabited since then, making it older than the city of Istanbul itself.  The name Samatya comes from the Greek word “Psamathion,” which means sandy. The area gets this name because of the sandy beaches that once lined its shore. Three millennia later the beaches are gone but some of the sand remains, hidden in the mortar of the Theodosian Walls, also known as The Walls of Constantinople, which enclosed Samatya within the protection of the great city.  Now, like the sand in the crumbling walls, the history, diversity, and distinctiveness of Samatya are coming to the surface again.

Churches, Mosques, and Monasteries

Under Emperor Theodosius I (379-395 AD) Samatya became an important center for churches and monasteries.  In the 5^th century the monastery of St John of Studius was built.  This complex was home to over 1000 monks at its peak and during the 9^th century it was the most powerful and influential monastery in the Byzantine Empire. Shortly after celebrating its millennium, the church was converted to a mosque by İlyas Bey, the Sultan’s Stable Master (or imrahor in Turkish). The mosque came to be known as the İmrahor Mosque and was in use until 1894 when it was destroyed by an earthquake. Today, the remaining walls of the Church of St John make it the oldest surviving church structure in the city.

Another church that underwent a change in faith is St Andrew of Krisei, which was built on the foundations of an earlier church from the 6^th century.  In 1491, St Andrew of Krisei was converted to a mosque by Koca Mustafa Paşa, an Ottoman Grand Vizier.  Koca Mustafa Paşa Mosque is still in use and it is a popular shrine. The tombs of the dervish leader Sümbül Efendi and his daughter Rahine are both here and attract crowds of people who come to pray to them for help. Rahine is especially known to provide help for unmarried women who are looking for husbands. 

Surp Kevork Armenian Church (known as Sulu Manastır in Turkish) is probably the area’s most important church. Originally built by Byzantine Emperor Romanos III around 1030 AD, it later became a Greek orthodox church, and was later handed over to the Armenian community by the Sultan. This church was the seat of the Armenian Patriarchy of Istanbul from 1461 to 1644 (when the patriarchy moved to Kumkapı). The church is still in use today, although much of the original structure had to be rebuilt after a disastrous fire in 1782, which destroyed much of Samatya.

After the Ottomans took control of the city, they began to add mosques to this area, either converting churches or building new structures. The Empire’s most famous architect Sinan is responsible for both the Abdi Çelebi Mosque and Ramazan Efendi Mosque. The latter is notable not only for the beautiful İznik faience that adorns it, but also because it was the last mosque that Sinan built. The Agha Public Bath in Samatya is also one of Sinan’s constructions.

The Armenian District

Beginning in 1458, Fatih Sultan Mehmet began settling Armenians in Samatya.  These immigrants were brought primarily from Karaman as part of the Sultan’s policy of bringing master craftsmen, artisans, and scholars to his new capital.  He also brought the Armenian religious leader Episcopos Havagim from Bursa, giving him Surp Kevork Church from which to lead his followers.  (Later sultans continued this trend and also settled non-Muslims in this area. So, while it may sometimes be referred to as the Armenian District, other Christians and Jews also played a significant role in the neighborhood’s history.)

One of the most famous Armenian craftsmen of the area was named Avedis. Legend has it that he was an alchemist who, while looking for the formula for gold, discovered a metal alloy that had very unique sound qualities. (Some stories also refer to him as being an apprentice bell maker when he discovered the formula, which is probably more likely.)  He discovered that this new alloy could also be shaped easily without breaking. He created huge cymbals that produced amazing sounds from the alloy.  His fame spread and soon the Sultan heard about him and called him to the palace. He wanted Avedis to create cymbals to be used by his military band as weapons of sound, emulating the clash of swords and shields, and announcing the power and strength of the Ottoman army.  As a reward for his fine work, the Sultan gave him the surname Zilciyan, which means bell maker, and permission to leave the palace and start his own business. In 1623, the Zilciyan Cymbal Company was formed in Samatya.

Over the centuries the secret formula was handed down from father to son. Their handmade cymbals became popular all over the world and have been used by everyone from European orchestras to American rock stars. In the 1930s the foundry was moved out of Samatya after residents complained about the noise produced by the constant hammering. In 1977, the company finally closed down.  However, some friends of the Zilciyan family who knew the secret formula decided that they wanted to carry on the art and tradition of cymbal making and opened their own companies. Today Istanbul is the only city in the world where handmade cymbals are still produced.

Samatya Today

From the 1950s on, Samatya began to change, as did much of Istanbul, with the huge influx of immigrants from Anatolia. The neighborhood began filling with ethnic Turkish Muslims and when tensions finally boiled over across the city in September of 1955, many of the former non-Muslim residents left the area for good.  Samatya ceased to be a place of much interest to anyone and became just another working class Turkish neighborhood with a few good restaurants that would draw in the occasional outsider.

Then in 1998 a new Turkish soap opera premiered: İkinci Bahar (which translates as Second Spring).  It was centered on a couple who worked in a restaurant in Samatya. The location was chosen because of its nostalgic look. The immense popularity of the show started to ignite interest in the area and the restaurant where the show was shot (Ali Haydar’ın Yeri) is still a popular attraction for locals.

In the last decade some major changes have come to Samatya.  To honor its history as a fishing village, a Fish Museum and a Fish Festival were launched. Popular tour agencies have started offering walking tours of the “Armenian District.” Most recently TURAD’s Samatya Development Project has encouraged several new ventures. This year ‘Music in Samatya: Cymbals and Jazz’ held its first events with 3 days of world-class concerts. A guide book for the area has been published as part of the promotional campaign. Some physical projects have also been undertaken, including repairing and repainting many of the traditional old wooden houses around the main square, and there are plans to begin archaeological excavations of the Byzantine-era Damatrys Palace.