Bebek: The Jewel of the Bosphorus

Yeşim Yemni / July 04, 2011

One of the most picturesque Bosphorus neighborhoods, Bebek is known as an elite,upscale part of town with a large foreign contingent. With its designer boutiques and many cafés and restaurants, Bebek is the ideal place to spend a pleasant day away from the hectic pace of the city. Here you can stroll along the water basking in the glory of the Bosphorus while also enjoying shopping, entertainment, and dining within a just few city blocks.

 

Bebek means baby in Turkish, and the area’s history dates back to pre-Christian times, when it was known as Chilai or Skallai, meaning pier. Prior to the conquest of Istanbul, Bebek was a simple Greek fishing village. During the construction of Rumeli Hisarı (Fortress), Sultan Mehmet II sent the supposedly baby-faced Bebek Çelebi to the region in 1451 to maintain order, and the area took Bebek Çelebi’s name after his death. Under the rule of Sultan Ahmet III in the late 17th and early 18th century, Bebek grew into a summer resort area. When the ferry terminal opened in the mid-19th century, Bebek became a thriving neighborhood with year- round residents. With the opening of Robert College (now called Bosphorus University) in 1863, many foreigners settled in the area.

 

Bebek - Illustration by Burcu Günister

 

A small compact neighborhood on the European shore, its verdant hills are dotted with elegant houses and apartments that slope down to a bay filled with bobbing rowboats and luxurious private yachts. On any given day, the main street Cevdetpaşa Caddesi is filled with strolling couples, parents pushing strollers, students from the nearby university, joggers and dog walkers--often moving faster than the cars stuck in the shoreline traffic.

 

Running parallel to the water, Bebek is easy to navigate, and starts with the white turreted Art Nouveau building that is the Egyptian Consulate (also known as the Valide Paşa Mansion). Built in 1902, this landmark building was designed by Italian architect Raimondo D’Aronco for an Ottoman official, and was later sold to the Egyptian Embassy, which then became the Egyptian Consulate when all embassies moved to Ankara, which became Turkey’s new capital. Over the years, this fairytale building became very run down, but it will soon re-open following a major renovation project that has restored it to its previous splendor.

 

Next to the Egyptian Consulate is the lovely Bebek Park, a magnet for families and dog lovers. Renovated by the Sabancı Foundation, it was re-named the Türkan Sabancı Bebek Park after it was re-opened in 2008, and now features an improved children’s playground and dog run. The park is also home to the charming municipal ferry terminal dating back to 1851. At the edge of the park is the Hümayunü Abad Mosque, an exquisite, beautifully-maintained structure that dates back to 1912. Right by the mosque is one of Bebek’s most well-known yet humble eateries Bebek Kahve.As its name suggests, this is a traditional, simple Turkish coffee house that nevertheless attracts many of the city’s intellectuals and many locals. Here you will find people whiling the day away chatting, playing backgammon and cards, or just reading a book or newspaper.

 

On the main street Cevdetpaşa Caddesi, you will find a number of small boutiques, and as of recent years, a number of clothing stores. One of the most successful Turkish apparel chains Yargıcı, known for its classic preppy clothes in neutral tones, now has two branches here, one which only sells accessories. Mapa is another established Turkish brand that specializes in well-tailored clothing in quality fabrics. Another Turkish store that has been receiving a lot of media attention of late is Midnight Express, a concept store that sells ready to wear clothing, jewelry, decorative items, and furniture. The aesthetic here is urban and sophisticated, with the designs of many young Turkish and international designers featured. Midnight Express has two branches in Bebek, one which only carries jewelry pieces. Another small, local boutique is Cashmere in Love, which carries a range of knitwear in modern designs made of quality Mongolian cashmere.

 

If you are looking for gifts for your friends back home, then head to Herşey Aşktan, a local store specializing in jewelry, ceramics, and other decorative items in Ottoman motifs. They also produce a range of beautifully-packaged traditional Turkish sweets. If its home décor and gifts that you are in the market for, head to Dört Mevsim, which specializes in high-quality products for home decoration in simple designs that fuse European and Ottoman styles. Noteworthy products include hand-printed traditional pesştemal (Turkish-style towels) and hand-blown glassware. 

 

For books, magazines, and newspapers in Turkish, English, and other languages, be sure to check out the Yasemin Pasajı (arcade), as well as the Dünya Aktüel Kitabevi, a small shop bursting with magazines and books, mostly in foreign languages. Bebek is also a good place to buy hard-to-find ingredients and foreign foods. Santral Şarküteri is a Bebek institution that sells everything you can imagine from regional Turkish cheeses to Duncan Hines cake mixes. For fresh fish, try the spotless Bebek Balık Evi where the specialties includebottarga (a local delicacy of cured fish roe) and lakerda (salted bonito).

 

If all that shopping wears you out, there are many options for a quick pick-me-up. If it’s a sugar rush you’re looking for, there is plenty on offer. Bebek Badem Ezmesi was established in 1904, and is best known for its marzipan (almond paste). The shop also sells a range of candies and other sweets. The famous Baylan, which is known for its legendary Kup Griye ice cream Sundae also opened a branch here in 2010. On a hot summer day Cremeria Milano is a welcomed option, serving authentic Italian ice cream and gelato. A local favorite is Mini Dondurma (open only in the summer), a tiny ice cream shop next to the Bebek Hotel that has been serving some of the best scoops in the city since 1968. Meanwhile, Bebek Brasserie and Patisserie (part of the Divan Group) known for their excellent cakes and pastries, has been serving loyal customers for some twenty years. The entrance level is filled with Divan delights including chocolates, cakes, and cookies. The brasserie downstairs has indoor seating plus a covered terrace by the water. One of the most recent additions is the first Turkish branch  of the French patisserie Ladurée that specializes in macaroons.

 

If caffeine is your drug of choice, Bebek is home to what must arguably be one of the best situated Starbuck’s in the world, with its spectacular view of the Bosphorus and the Asian shoreline. UK-based coffee chain Caffé Nero also has a five story waterside branch here. However, if you are looking for somewhere a bit more up market to enjoy your coffee break, Bebek offers several options where you can sip your latte in style. One of the flashiest and most popular hangouts is Lucca, which is known as the place to see and be seen. Opened in 2004, this restaurant became an instant hit with Istanbul’s glitterati, and is almost always packed, with the crowds spilling out onto the sidewalk. The food here is good and the setting warm and stylish.

 

Right across the street is Happily Ever After that started out as a bakery and café, and soon expanded due to its success. Very popular, particularly for people watching, it now also offers a fantastic Bosphorus view. As well as an international menu, it also servs freshly-baked breads and pastries. Located high above the main street is another local favorite Mangerie. To find the entrance, go up past the Ebil Hair Salon (a great place to get dolled up for a night on the town). Once you catch a glimpse of the view of the street below and the water beyond, you quickly realize why Mangerie is worth the climb. The emphasis here is on good food served well, and the tasteful décor of mainly white wood and painted floors make this an ideal spot for brunch. Further along the water is Bebek Koru Kahvesi, an elegant and cozy café serving international favorites.

 

Bebek is also an excellent part of town to enjoy local seafood, with a number of long-standing restaurants present as well as some new additions. Bebek Balıkçısı is a rather formal restaurant open since 1961. Its chandeliers, bow-tie-wearing waiters, and white linen tablecloths take you back to a time when ‘dining’ was still a formal affair. If it’s drinks you’re after, then head to Bebek Bar located in the Bebek Hotel. Opened in 1963 and completely refurbished in 2002, this hotel is recommended by The Charming Hotels Independent Luxury Hotels of the World. No wonder it’s recommended, given its fantastic location and old-world style and service. The hotel is nevertheless best known for its bar and Les Ambassadeurs restaurant on its premises. With its wood paneling and leather chairs, Bebek Bar feels like an English gentleman’s club, but is anything but stuffy offering a lovely terrace and one of the finest views boasted by a bar in Istanbul.

 

While Bebek was traditionally known for its independent cafés and restaurants, in recent years, a number of major Turkish chain restaurants have opened branches here, including House Café and Kitchenette. However, despite the opening of these well-known chains, Bebek has managed to retain its boutique atmosphere. Indeed, while many of Istanbul’s neighborhoods are being eroded by migration and urban sprawl, Bebek remains a unique enclave that has preserved its elite lifestyle. One look and it is easy to see why Bebek is known as the pearl of the Bosphorus.

 

Updated on March 15, 2012

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