Locatedin the greater Beyoğlu district, the funky Galata neighborhood has rapidly emerged as the place for young Turkish designers to open shop. Galata is now frequently called the ‘Soho of Istanbul’, thanks to this swift gentrification process. However, one look at this district’s winding streets and crumbling urban decay will tell you that this neighborhood has far more character than its supposed New York City counterpart. When visiting Galata today, you will see a part of town that is at its most exciting point of development. The rents are still low enough so that young, up-and-coming designers and local artists can afford to open boutiques, but the scene is developed enough that there is a real buzz in the air, with many talented young designers showcasing their work.

Galata was first settled during the Byzantine period, and, in the 13th century, the Genoese established a colony that was called Galata. At one time, this mini port city had one of the busiest harbors in all of Europe, and was a center for banking and commerce. Over the years, the area became home to a large non-Muslim population, with many Italians, Greeks, and Jews living here. During the 19th century, the area was also known as ‘Pera’, named after the main street, which was then called the ‘Grand Rue du Pera’. Beyoğlu was the city’s most refined district at this time, with many Europeans residing here, giving it a very cosmopolitan air. In fact, the name Beyoğlu comes from ‘Bey Yolu’, which means ‘Gentlemen’s Street’.

After the Turkish Republic was established in 1923, the greater Beyoğlu area suffered a social setback as the embassies moved to Ankara, and many of the area’s minorities began to leave. During this time, the ‘Rue du Pera’ was renamed ‘Istiklal Caddesi’, meaning ‘Freedom Street’. Due to political reasons during the 1950s and 1960s, most of the remaining minorities left, and the area attracted poor rural migrants, as Beyoğlu entered a period of further decline. Over the ensuing decades, Beyoğlu became increasingly dilapidated and gained a rather unsavory reputation.

However, this all began to change in the 90s as the area began to pick up again, helped in large part by Istiklal Caddesi being turned into a pedestrian- only zone. The charming red and white nostalgic tram, that runs up Istiklal Street was restored, and Beyoğlu began fighting hard to regain its former glory. All of this hard work has paid off, and Beyoğlu is once again a thriving commercial and cultural center, the heart of the modern city.

Galata Tower remains the district’s most iconic structure. Built by the Genoese in 1348, this structure has served many purposes, including a fire tower and prison. Demolished on several occasions due to fires and earthquakes, the current top section was rebuilt in 1967 and the tower is now a major tourist attraction, displaying a panoramic view of the city.

While many retail chains have started to open shops on Istiklal Caddesi, giving the area a more commercial feel, Galata is dominated by small independent shops and up and coming young designers. Until just recently, Galata was an area in decay but now it is one of the city’s most dynamic districts, as the influx of young designers and artists have helped to breathe new life into the area.

As you walk down to Galata, out of the Şişhane Metro’s tunnel exit down Şahkulu Bostan Caddesi, you will pass the imposing façade of the German School. The first shop you will see is a rather cool looking boutique, Simay Bülbül. Known for her award- winning leather designs, Simay Bülbül opened her showroom here in early 2010. Working with a range of fabrics, including jerseys and silks, almost every piece has some kind of leather detailing, creating a thoroughly modern aesthetic. Simay Bülbül’s unique designs are an edgy take on traditional Turkish leather, and these designs have become a favorite with many celebrities.

When you turn the corner, you find yourself on Serdar-ı Ekrem Caddesi, where the majority of the new boutiques have opened. This street is also home to one of the most well-known buildings in this district, the Doğan Apartment. Originally built in 1895 by a family of Belgian bankers, the present-day yellow ochre building has been beautifully restored.

On one end of Serdar-ı Ekrem Caddesi, you will find Atelier 55, a concept store selling everything from clothing and jewelry, to accessories and hand-painted cushions. Carrying a range of creations by both Turkish and international designers, everything in the store, including all the furniture and paintings, is for sale. There is also a small Espresso Bar at the back, in case you need a quick coffee break. Further down the street, heading towards the Galata Tower, you will find Aida Pekin, a local jewelry designer, who creates simple pieces in whimsical, childlike designs working with silver, gold and felt. Be sure to check out the

Istanbul collection inspired by the city’s architecture. Next, we find Sır Cini, one of the oldest shops on the street, selling traditional Turkish ceramics with a twist. With a ceramics studio at the back, owner Sadullah Çekmece creates original designs, including ceramic boxes with hand drawn pictures and textured wall tiles in modern designs.

A newcomer to the area, Tuba Benian just opened their boutique in early 2011. This store features tailored, lady-like clothing as well as many leather and equestrian-themed clothing items. Lilipud Boutique carries a range of retro-style dresses and also produces their own jewelry in a small workshop downstairs. A little further down the street, we find Arzu Kaprol’s thoroughly modern namesake boutique. A darling of the Turkish media, Kaprol’s designs include both couture and prêt-à- porter lines, and are sold in Turkey and abroad. Her clothes are very fashion- forward, using texture and pleating to create highly sculptural pieces.

Right across the street, you’ll find Lunapark Shop, a unique store that specializes in nostalgic Turkish items. Opened in late 2010, the store’s current concept is ‘Turkish Very Much’ as it carries both contemporary designs from many of Turkey’s leading designers as well as nostalgic products, which will be familiar to anyone who grew up in Turkey in the 1980s. Bahar Korçan is another well-established designer that has set up shop in this area. A leader in Turkey’s fashion industry, Korcan designs quirky, colorful clothing in a wide range of fabrics, often using layers of gauze to create a sense of whimsy. Meanwhile, Laundromat is a cool boutique designed as a platform for young Turkish artists. Here, you can find clothing and jewelry from many of the city’s up-and-coming designers.

If you wander past the Galata Tower, you will eventually find your way to this area’s other main shopping street Camekan, which is considerably smaller, but still has several noteworthy shops. Among them is Museum of Fine Clothing; a small shop carrying a range of sharply tailored women’s wear in dark and neutral colors. On this street, you will also find Lastik Pabuç, a funky store carrying clothing and a wide range of hard-to-find running shoes, catering to the area’s young hipster crowd. Paristexas carries clothes from many international designers, including Marc Jacobs, MiuMiu, and Chloé, as well as several cool, hard-to-find Japanese brands and custom-made leather bags.

Finally, just off of Tünel Square, you will find Doors by Ümit Ünal. One of Turkey’s best-known, cutting-edge designers, Ünal’s clothes are often designed to tell a story. Drawing inspiration from his travels and many diverse cultures, he often works with natural fabrics. Having achieved considerable success in his home country, many of Ünal’s designs are also sold internationally.

Undoubtedly, Galata is still very rough around the edges, but this is a considerable part of its charm. Despite its rapid transformation into one of Istanbul’s coolest neighborhoods, it has still managed to retain its original character.

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A Day on Serdar-ı Ekrem Caddesi in Galata; by Talya Arditi