Despite its central location, Çukurcuma is an area that remains relatively unknown to most residents and tourists, and is therefore considered to the neighborhood and it is easy to see why. Bursting with antique shops yet not the least bit touristy, the area offers an extraordinary range of antique pieces and novelty items.

Çukurcuma is a historical neighborhood located in the heart of the Beyoğlu district, hemmed in by Cihangir, Tophane, and Galatasaray, and it is currently undergoing a period of gentrification. Although a bit off the beaten path, the area has long been popular among antique enthusiasts. Çukurcuma, which means ‘Hollow Friday’, allegedly acquired its name when Fatih Sultan Mehmed II came to this hollow to say his Friday prayers before he conquered Istanbul. In the decades after the conquest of Istanbul, a few landmark buildings were built in the area, including the Çukurcuma Mosque, which was built by Mimar Sinan, and the crumbling Ağa Hamam, a Turkish bath that was built in 1562.

Wandering in and out of Çukurcuma’s various shops and through its winding streets, it is difficult not to get lost—but that is, in fact, half the fun. As you meander down the streets, you will notice that most of the buildings have quite a European architectural style. This is because the area was once the home of a large Greek, Armenian, and Levantine community. Although most of the area is still in a state of elegant decay, some of the buildings have started to get a facelift and some have already been restored to their previous splendor.

As many young hipsters from neighboring Cihangir are slowly opening shops and cafés in Çukurcuma, the area has been taking on an increasingly bohemian feel. Recently, a number of funky boutiques and designer shops have been popping up and joining the more established antique shops. Some shops have the air of a flea market brimming with curio objects and kitsch. You really have to hunt through the heaps in such stores and this actually makes each find all the more enjoyable. On the other side of the spectrum, in some stores you often feel like you have entered the luxurious home of a wealthy friend who has filled their home with tasteful antiques.

Çukurcuma is also home to many workshops, and in the summer months, you can see the local carpenters hard at work, crafting new pieces and refurbishing old ones. You will notice that the local carpenters, antique dealers, and various shopkeepers in Çukurcuma are very laid-back and happy to chat with you about their goods, explaining the unique provenance of each piece as you browse through their stores. The old men sipping tea and playing backgammon by the shop entrances along the streets and in the shaded gardens of the neighborhood mosques are a testament to this relaxed atmosphere.

While Çukurcuma is currently not on many people’s radar, this is likely to change very soon when Orhan Pamuk’s Museum of Innocence opens (see boxed text on page 82). As Turkey’s prized Nobel-laureate, Mr. Pamuk is known to have something of a Midas touch, and we are sure that this new museum will put Çukurcuma on the tourists’ trail, as well as the locals’ agenda.

A bit further up the hill from Çukurcuma, neighboring Cihangir is considered to be Istanbul’s most bohemian neighborhood. Renowned for its stunning views of the Bosphorus, many artists and intellectuals have now made the area their home. In fact, this area has re-established itself over the past decade and became Istanbul’s hipster haven.

During the reign of Süleyman the Magnificent, Cihangir was a forested hunting ground and a favorite of his son Jahangir from where the area gets its name. After Jahangir’s death, the Sultan had the legendary architect Mimar Sinan build a mosque in this area as a monument to his son. Thanks to its proximity to Yeşilçam Street in Beyoğlu--the center of the Turkish film industry from the 1950s to the 70s-–many actors and artists chose to make Cihangir their home. However, by the 80s many of the district’s beautiful Art Deco buildings were run down, and like the greater Beyoğlu area, Cihangir came to be known as a rather rough part of town.

Then, like many of Istanbul’s other neighborhoods, Cihangir entered a period of gentrification in the mid-1990s. This process moved along far more rapidly than in many of the city’s other areas. The rapid movement was helped along, no doubt, by the lack of industrial production in the area as well as the breathtaking views of the Bosphorus. A sharp rise in rents quickly transformed the area into a middle- class neighborhood, dotted with cafés and restaurants. Today, many actors and artists live here and they have been joined by numerous expats. In fact, Orhan Pamuk has his office here, and often writes about the neighborhood’s history and evolving character.

While the area is better known for its nightlife scene and cafés, there are also a number of interesting shops. One standout is Mariposa, which is a charming little retro-themed shop that carries a range of colorful clothing and decorative household items. As well as their own clothing line, this store also makes tailored items to order. The faux-vintage home décor items are particularly popular among nostalgia lovers. Along a similar vein is the clothing boutique Berrin Akyuz, which specializes in re-worked vintage clothing items as well as new pieces with a romantic feel. A favorite among locals, the store also carries a range of accessories.

Although better known as a restaurant, White Mill also has a small café/shop at the entrance that sells the artworks of well-known local artist Aida Pekin. Pekin works with silver, gold, and felt to create whimsical pieces of jewelry, and also produces a range of dainty decorative items in white porcelain. For organic beauty and health products, head to Vie en Rose, specializing in all-natural products, including soaps, creams, scented oils, and teas. All items are produced using certified organic products grown on local farms, with the Turkish rose cream making an ideal gift for friends back home. Meanwhile, one of the best record shops in the city Opus 3A, is also in Cihangir. While they specialize in jazz and classical music, you can find almost everything, from traditional Ottoman and Kurdish to World music.

Finally, when you feel that it is time to take a break, Cihangir has an excellent selection of cafés from which to choose, including Firuz Café, Smyrna, Momo, Susam and Fol in Love.   One particularly noteworthy spot is Cuppa, an excellent café/juice bar that offers a variety of fruit concoctions that make the perfect antidote to a boozy night out. For more substantial fare, try Demeti, a traditional Turkish meyhane (tavern) where you can dine on a wide range of mezes while enjoying the beautiful Bosphorus view. A recent addition to Cihangir’s restaurant scene is Jash. The style of décor here is very much ‘old world charm’, which, along with the home-style Armenian cooking, gives this eatery a very homey feel. Whether you are in the market for antiques, clothing, or nostalgia items, the neighborhoods of Çukurcuma and Cihangir are great places to visit in order to experience a less touristy side of shopping in Istanbul. Both neighborhoods are steeped in history, and also have a great selection of funky shops and charming cafés, making for a winning combination.

Çukurcuma and Cihangir Shops

Classic

You will always be greeted with a gracious welcome at A La Turca—an antique store in a gorgeous four-story house. Owner Erkal Aksoy clearly has an excellent eye for all the finer things in life. As well as a vast array of kilims and carpets, the shop carries a refined collection of furniture, accessories, and antique textiles.

Ayşe Örbek is another tastefully-cluttered shop that specializes in a range of antiques, including pottery, silverware, and marble bowls.

One of the most established shops in the neighborhood is Aslı Günşiray which has been open since 1988. While this shop does carry antiques, the concept is slightly different than others in the area as Günşiray uses imported fabrics from Europe and Central Asia for her own furniture and cushion designs. With her unique style, Günşiray also designs custom-made pieces for commercial and individual spaces.

Şamdan Antique stocks a range of traditional items, such as china, glassware, and pieces of ornamental calligraphy, and specializes in Ottoman and Art Deco pieces.

Playful

In The Works “Objects of Desire” you will find incredibly cluttered shelves that manage to produce a delightful mess. Vintage household items, furniture, and clothing vie for your attention in this shop, where you could easily wile away many hours searching for treasures.

Another vintage store in the area is On Sekiz (18) Mobilya, which specializes in industrial lighting and factory lamps and is the only store of its kind in Turkey. Most of the items date from the 1930s to the 1970s, generally originating from US and the UK. Some furniture pieces and car models are also sold. On Sekiz (18) Mobilya also has another unique specialty: hand-painted signs, which are painstakingly reproduced by shop owner Selçuk Arıkan.

Galeri Alfa, which was one of the first stores to open in this area, is a unique shop specializing in antique maps, engravings, and a collection of toy soldiers. In fact, this is the only place where you can find a collection of lead alloy toy soldier sets of the Ottoman Royal Army and the Janissary corps, each piece hand-painted with historically-accurate costumes. Visiting this shop is a real treat for children and sophisticated collectors alike.

One of the only jewelry shops in this area, Evihan creates playful designs using glass and silver.

Jeweler Kristin Evihan’s specialty creation is pieces with angels that are all original. Ladybug motifs and colorful, chunky rings are also among her popular items.

The Newcomers

A relative newcomer to the area, Modern Tarih specializes in Asian and African art, which is an unusual focus for a shop in Çukurcuma. Exotic would likely be the first word that comes to mind while walking through this shop, which has the feel of the Asian art section of a museum. Modern Tarih offers a carefully-selected collection of carved wooden doors from India, stone Buddhas from Asia, and masks from Africa.

Müstamel Eşya Evi specializes in vintage furniture, particularly from the 1950s and ‘60s. Both refurbished versions of original pieces and reproduction pieces are available, along with paintings by local artists and nostalgic decorative items.

Doğukan Ires runs a small, minimalistic shop called Lüle (Arts of Tophane), which is one of the most recent additions to Çukurcuma. This store specializes in traditional Ottoman terra cotta pottery designs called lüle; The techniques for making this type of pottery were lost for years and were only recently rediscovered.

The Interior Designers

While Çukurcuma is known for its antique stores, there are also several shops offering interior design services. Run by New Zealand-born Christopher Hall, The Hall is one such store that carries both vintage and contemporary pieces. The Hall designs modern furniture lines inspired by different cultures and also provides interior design services for local as well as international clients. Meanwhile, Hakan Ezer’s namesake shop specializes in a more traditional style of décor. Having decorated the homes of some of the most prominent Istanbulites, Ezer also provides interior design services.