Part of Istanbul’s age-old culture, eating balık-ekmek (grilled fish sandwich) is a cheap, tasty, and fun tradition that you shouldn’t miss out on during your Eminönü/Sultanahmet trip.

Once you pass over the Galata Bridge headed towards Eminönü, you’ll see nostalgic boats by the waterside on the right. Lots of frenzy going around there, you’ll notice. The reason, of course, is the balık-ekmek. 

This is how it goes: the traditionally-dressed sellers get the Norwegian mackerel, grill it in the boat, put it inside half a loaf of bread, add seasonal greens (and fresh onions if desired), and pass it onto the so-called wait staff whose sole purpose is to pass the sandwich from the boat to those hungrily awaiting their sandwich. The cook/fishermen are artists in the field of fish-sandwich making! Our guess it that he can make around 20 per minute.

Several boats, which sell the exact same product, line the shore, and a tent-like structure covers the little area allocated to each boat. Small tables are available under these tents; if going with a group, you should pick one person to order the sandwiches and try to get a table in the meantime as spaces are scarce. Before you begin munching on your sandwich, add salt and lemon juice to taste (you’ll find these on your table).

No need to juggle with finding your choice of drink—it will come to you once you sit down. You’ll see men selling a variety of drinks and they will rush over to your table to sell their beverages. You will also be approached by men selling pickles. Have it as a side dish and drink up the remaining pickle juice (don’t worry, it’s not that sour; it’s actually quite tasty and refreshing).

The whole experience takes 15 minutes. Quick, delicious, and filling. Perfect way to have a little rest from the haggling in the Grand Bazaar. After you finish up, head to the Egyptian bazaar, buy a couple of Turkish delights for dessert, and there you go, your lunch/dinner is complete!

Keep in mind that balık-ekmek is very popular both with tourists and locals, so expect a hungry crowd when you go there. But rest assured that the wait is definitely worth it!

When: The sellers are by the waterside every day, usually starting around 9:00am and closing up around 12:00am

Where: On the right side of the waterside, on your way to Eminönü from the Galata Bridge

How much: The fish sandwich is 4TL; the pickle is 1.5 TL