The 19^thcentury French poet and writer Alphonse de Lamartine wrote, “If one had but a single glance to give the world, one should gaze at Istanbul.” It’s not hard to imagine he was gazing at the iconic skyline of Seraglio Point and the Golden Horn, with its breathtaking panorama of domes and minarets, when that thought came to his mind.

With nearly 3,000 mosques, Istanbul has more mosques than any other city in the world. And no matter where you go in the city, from the historical quarters to the posh downtown shopping and business districts or the extravagant and wealthy suburbs, you will hear the call to prayer cutting through the daily traffic noise and punctuating the pace of life. Although the most famous mosques are concentrated in the historic areas of the city and are pieces of history themselves (600 of the city’s mosques date back to the Ottoman period), the erection of beautiful and divine new mosques in Istanbul continues to make history.

Set amidst some of the most impressive mosques in Eminönü, it would be easy to overlook this little mosque with its lone minaret, but that would be a mistake. Find the narrow entrance on Hasırcılar Caddesi and wind your way up the steps to the surprisingly spacious terrace courtyard. Like many mosques of its time, the Rüstem Paşa Mosque was not built at street level. It was built above the vaulted shops and market stalls that supported its upkeep. Some things haven’t changed much since it was completed in 1563, and the mosque is still surrounded by shops and salesmen plying their trade in Hasırcılar Çarşısı (the Basket Weavers’ Market) although the range of products available today is a bit more varied. Despite its location in the heart of this bustling community, once you step into the mosque you will be amazed at the beautiful and tranquil atmosphere inside.

Rüstem Paşa, for whom the mosque is named, was a grand vizier and prime minister in the court of Süleyman the Magnificent (Sultan Süleyman I). He was also married to Süleyman’s only daughter, Mihrimah, who oversaw the construction of the mosque as a memorial after her husband’s death. Theirs was a marriage that very nearly didn’t happen. Rüstem Paşa’s competitors for the hand of Mihrimah spread rumors that he had leprosy, which would have made him a most unsuitable groom. However, when the palace doctors examined him they found him to be infested with lice. Medical wisdom at the time held that lice never touched lepers. Thus Rüstem and Mihrimah were able to marry, and he gained the nickname “The Louse of Fortune” (Kehle-i Ikbal) after the Turkish saying that for a lucky man, even a louse can bring him more good fortune. And Rüstem Paşa was a fortunate man indeed; he became one of the wealthiest and most powerful men in the empire, and his name lives on with this stunning mosque.

Mihrimah hired the empire’s greatest architect to build her husband’s memorial. Mimar Sinan (Sinan the Architect) had been appointed chief architect of Istanbul by Süleyman the Magnificent in 1538. His most famous work, the Süleymaniye Mosque, which houses the tombs of both Süleyman and Mihrimah, sits on the hill just above the lesser known Rüstem Paşa Mosque. The Süleymaniye Mosque, which is the largest mosque in the city, is a testament to Mimar Sinan’s ability to build glorious structures on a monumental scale. Rüstem Paşa Mosque, by contrast, demonstrates Sinan’s genius and artistry for elevating a small edifice to sublime stature.

Rüstem Paşa Mosque has a floor plan that consists of an octagon within a rectangle, with a large center dome supported by four smaller semi-domes and thick octagonal columns. When you enter the mosque the first thing you notice is the vivid array of colors. The walls, the columns, the mihrab, and some of the exterior facades are all covered in Iznik tiles produced at the height of Iznik’s popularity. The tiles of this period are characterized by a startlingly white background, against which the vibrant colors are brilliantly offset. Red was the most difficult color to achieve and therefore the most highly sought after. Rüstem Paşa Mosque is resplendent with this rare color, which is echoed in the red carpet covering the floor. The tile patterns are geometric and floral. Throughout the mosque, stylized tulips, roses, and carnations appear in recurring patterns. In fact, more than forty different variations of the tulip motif can be found within this mosque.

Other important features in the mosque are the mihraband the minbar. The mihrab, a semi-circular niche that shows the direction of Mecca, is an example of classic Ottoman architecture, whose upper part consists of characteristic decorative stalactites surrounded by the refined Izniktile designs. The minbaris the staircase and raised platform at the front of the mosque from which sermons are given. In Rüstem Paşa, it is intricately carved marble set against tiles decorated with the tree of life and covered with a pointed roof. Unfortunately, it is not possible to climb to the upper galleries to see the tiles there, which include patterns and motifs not seen anywhere else in the mosque.

Despite its small size, this is one of the most impressive Ottoman mosques in Istanbul, and one that most of the big crowds of tourists bypass. It is worth the little bit of extra energy required to find this slightly-hidden treasure, especially since you will be able to explore Mimar Sinan’s showpiece in peace and at leisure.

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Rüstem Paşa Mosque; Hasırcılar Çarşısı; Eminönü

How to Get There

From the main square in Eminönü, walk up the street that runs along the right side of Spice Bazaar. Follow your nose up this sidestreet to the delicious smell of roasting coffee coming from Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi. Turn right and follow the street (Hasırcılar Caddesi) for about two minutes. The entrance to the mosque is on the right in an unassuming stone doorway with a very simple plaque between two shops.