Nargile, the eastern waterpipe, is as popular as ever and an evocative reminder of the smoky past of Istanbul. Nargile, also known by the terms "hookah", “shisha” or "hubblybubbly", originated a few centuries ago in India. At that time, it was made from a coconut shell and as the Nargile traveled through Central Asia to Iran, it evolved into its present form, with the shape of a bottle.

Contrary to popular opinion (and the spaced-out, nargile-smoking caterpillar in Alice in Wonderland), hashish is not an approved substance to be smoked anywhere and is illegal in Turkey. Tobacco is the product of choice for smoking with a nargile. A dark tobacco is imported from Iran and this is the best quality tobacco available. For younger smokers, the preferred varieties of tobacco are made from apple, mint, melon or coconut. Some enhanced flavor can be added to the nargile smoke itself, by the addition of rose oil or pomegranate juice to the water.

There are strict rules of etiquette surrounding the smoking of a nargile. For example, you are never supposed to debase the high art of nargile smoking by lighting a cigarette from the coals. Also, you should never rest the nargile on a high place. In fact, it should always be placed on the floor. Finally, you should never pass the ağızlık directly to another person. The correct procedure is to put it down after use, and then the other person will pick it up himself, when he is ready.

Although nargile usage has declined with the advent of the more portable cigarette, it hasn’t lost its popularity as people seek the sedentary silence it allows. Cigarettes are for people on the go and nargiles are for those who want to get away from it all. Nargile cafés are places to talk and sip coffee or tea quietly, between puffs. The fact that the smoking process can last an hour or two means that it is very conducive to philosophical discussion. The most authentic and popular nargile café is Çorlulu Ali Paşa Medresesi, located near the Covered Bazaar. Another is Pierre Loti Café, which has a fantastic view of the Golden Horn. You can also find nargile cafés in the Sultanahmet area, Beyoğlu and dotted around the city. Most establishments ostensibly obey the smoking ban and have their nargiles positioned outside during the day, but as with many cafes and bars after hours, the smoking creeps inside like a sneaky, secret vice.

Note: It is important to be aware that some medical specialists have stated that water pipe smoking can lead to tuberculosis, bronchitis, emphysema, heart disease and the transmission of viruses that can be transferred from previous users.

This article was published in The Guide Istanbul July/Aug 2001