Boasting more than 300 galleries, Istanbul is truly a gem for art lovers. Apart from the Maçka– Nişantaşı– Teşvikiye triangle, the Beyoğlu, Tophane, and Akaretler neighborhoods have long been considered top art destinations. Next in line are Kadıköy and Sıraselviler.

“The feeling of destruction of the Ottoman Empire, the poverty and melancholy caused by the ruins have been things that defined Istanbul for me my entire life. Like every citizen of Istanbul, I spent my life either battling or eventually embracing this melancholy,” says Orhan Pamuk in his book Istanbul: Memories and the City. Indeed, every Istanbul resident, no matter if they were born here or settled her much later in life, is doomed to such melancholy, coupled with a constant desire to leave. But before you can lift a finger, this desire is overshadowed by the awareness that you could not live anywhere else. As Orhan Pamuk writes in the same book, not far from the first quote, “Life can’t be that awful. After all, you can take a walk by the Bosphorus.”

But Istanbul is much more than the Bosphorus, and you can discover a whole new world at any moment — by stepping into a gallery, arts institute, or museum, for example. No need to look further. In certain parts of town you will come across a museum, gallery, or arts initiative on every corner.

In 1933, the artists Zeki Faik İzer, Nurullah Berk, Elif Naci, Cemal Tollu, Abidin Dino, and Zühtü Müridoğlu formed the D Grubu (D Group) and set up their first exhibition at the hat shop under the historic Narmanlı Yurdu building in Beyoğlu. If these artists saw the city now, they would undoubtedly be joyfully surprised. While it must have been a totally different and potentially inspiring experience to set up an exhibition in a hat shop, galleries are necessary nowadays for artists to express and share their works and worlds.

FROM HUMBLE HAT SHOP BEGINNINGS…

Even though Turkey’s first gallery was opened by Isamil Hakkı Oygar in 1945, most art lovers consider Maya Sanat Galerisi (1951-1955), established by Adalet Cimcoz, the first spark in Istanbul’s art scene. This short-lived and legendary gallery not only exhibited and traded art, but also hosted countless inspiring gatherings in its time. Isn’t this what galleries are all about? They provide a space to exhibit, share, and discuss works of art, shaping the relationship between artists and the public.

In the 70s and 80s, artistic aspirations were burgeoning at the same time as the concept of “an industry of culture” began making its way into popular terminology and the country’s artistic works endeavored to reach audiences in the outside world: a dilemma fit for a naive and sentimental novelist. (One should read Pamuk’s last book The Naive and Sentimental Novelist to look further into this dilemma!) The 90s, to quote the curator René Block, were a true “Istanbul miracle”. The approach of this miracle could be sensed at the first Istanbul Biennial in 1987 and at the galleries in the Maçka– Nişantaşı – Teşvikiye triangle. Maçka Sanat and Galeri Nev, in particular, deserve extra credit for their contributions. So does the private sector: Garanti Platform, Proje 4L, Akbanksanat, Siemens Sanat, Kasa Galeri, and others used their capital to support contemporary art, Robin Hood-style. Although museums such as Sakıp Sabancı, Istanbul Modern, Pera, santralistanbul,and Borusan Contemporary have made the biggest impact in the last decade, our hearts are still with the independent galleries.

The 2001 economic crisis was an impetus for the new generation of galleries to support contemporary art and open up to the global art scene. Murat Pilevneli founded Galerist in 2004 in Teşvikiye, then moved the gallery, unwillingly, to Mısır Apartmanı. Here’s how he explains the situation: “The 2001 economic crisis toppled the established arts market. Works that had been sold for thousands of dollars became worthless overnight. This was a point of departure for contemporary art.” Curator Beral Madra sees it differently: “Art is sailing in the turbulent waters of global politics and economics. We are faced with a much more shrewd and elitist approach than the naive, idealist, and romantic atmosphere of the 1980s and 1990s.”

FROM TAKSIM SQUARE TO GALATA

Packed with food, shopping, and art options, Istiklal Avenue is an indispensable part of Istanbul. Walking from Taksim Square to Tünel, you can visit Akbanksanat for a quick look through its collection. Or simply head straight to the century-old Mısır Apartmanı. Take the elevator to the top floor and browse through the galleries as you make your way down: Galeri Nev, Galerist, CDA Project, Pi Artworks, and Galeri Zilberman. It’s hard to leave once you’re inside. A little further down Istiklal, you’ll come across another venue striving to make art a part of daily life: SALT, by Garanti. Just across from SALT, you can find ARTER, a project by the Vehbi Koç Foundation. Aiming to contribute to the country’s artistic production, the venue that recently hosted Patricia Piccinini is now hosting Kutluğ Ataman’s exhibition. Across the avenue, Borusan Müzik Evi can also be added to an art lover’s itinerary for its “Light and Matter” exhibitions. If you’re not exhausted by this point, you can visit Arte Istanbul at Kumbaracı Yokuşu and the many independent art events in the back alleys of Galata…

TOPHANE PROVES ITS WORTH

Tophane, one of the most eccentric neighborhoods in Istanbul, with its back leaning against Istiklal Avenue and it’s worth its salt when it comes to the arts. The first spark was ignited on No. 5 Hayriye Avenue in 1998, when carpenter Armenak Usta’s workshop transformed into Apel, the most romantic gallery in Istanbul. Since 2008, many galleries, including the pioneers Outlet and NON, have opened in the neighborhood, one after the other. Galeri Outlet was vacated after an unpleasant incident during the opening of an exhibition one evening in September 2010. Now Outlet has resurrected as Pilot in the bohemian Cihangir neighborhood. Pg Art Gallery, Pi Artworks, Daire, Elipsis, NON, Rodeo, Depo, artSümer, and Galeri Manâ, all of which are situated along Boğazkesen Avenue in Tophane, are still welcoming art lovers.

AKARETLER IS BOOMING 

In its heyday, Sıraevler in Akaretler hosted countless important names, including the court painter Fausto Zonaro. These days, the neighborhood is determined to become Istanbul’s new art and design hub. In addition to more design-oriented galleries such as artlimits, Autoban, and Derin Design, the area also hosts Galerist and Rampa, which are true temples of contemporary art. If you continue further up the hill and connect to the Maçka – Teşvikiye – Nişantaşı triangle, you should visit Mac Art, Çağla Cabaoğlu, Dirimart, and, Galeri x-ist, particularly if you’re interested in discovering young, up-and-coming talents. Last but not least, make sure to stop by Art On to see exhibitions by established international artists as well as young Turkish artists.