Turkish dance is generally encountered by tourists in two forms: whirling dervishes and belly dancing. One doesn’t have to look very far in Sultanahmet to find places to see belly dancing; the dance ritual known as the sema (practiced by devotees of Mevlana Rumi) is also performed regularly throughout the year at a number of venues throughout the city. While the sema may have a longer pedigree in Turkish culture than the Arab import of belly dancing (the Turkish term for which, oryantal, suggests a non-indigenous origin), both are a pleasure to watch when well-executed; still, they are hardly the last word on Turkish dance.  

Since 2008, the Hodjapasha Culture Center in Sirkeci has offered regular performances of both these dances, and more. The Center is located in a hamam built by Hoca Sinan Paşa, the vizier of Mehmet the Conqueror; constructed in 1470, it is one of the oldest in the city, but fell into disuse several decades ago. What used to be the women’s section of the hamam is now the Center’s exhibition hall, with information panels about the different styles of Anatolian dance. The former men’s section hosts the actual performances, which come in two varieties: a sema performance as well as a Turkish Dance Show. We opted to attend the latter, reasoning that this would be the best way to learn about the range of different Turkish dance forms.  

The Turkish Dance Show is indeed a smorgasbord of different dances. Accompanied by a group of live musicians playing the saz, davul, fiddle, garmon (accordion), bass guitar, tambourine, and other instruments, a team of dancers performs a dozen different dances – solo, in pairs, in single-sex and mixed ensemble – from the different parts of Anatolia and the former Ottoman Empire. Here you can see little-known native Anatolian dances such as the misket (from Central Anatolia), the halay (from Eastern Turkey), and the zeybek (from the Aegean); dances that shade off into dramatic performances (such as the Henna Night number from Elazığ, simulating a Turkish bride’s pre-wedding preparations); dances from the Balkans, from the Black Sea region of Turkey, and from Azerbaijan; gypsy dancing from Turkish Thrace; and of course, plenty of belly dancing (both solo and in ensemble) with a surprising twist or two.

The stage in this small, domed space is circular (resembling the stone massage platform called the göbek taşı which was formerly found in the hamam). The audience sits in rows surrounding the stage, with less than two feet between the front row and the edge of the stage (and the dancers), creating an absolute minimum of distance between performer and audience. Given these constaints, the range of motion found in these dances is necessarily restrained (don’t expect somersaults in the air) but the dances are lively, and are skillfully executed. Each dance features its own unique costume, from red flounced Gypsy skirts, to Balkan tunics and puttees, to the riding boots worn by the broad-striding male member of the “Azerbaijani” duo (which the reviewer at first took to be a Cossack dance).     

Highlights of this diverse performance included a “Shaman dance” by a solo female dancer dressed in a long white robe, who supplied a periodic cadence to her flowing dance movements by falling backwards onto the ground. In the dark, with fluorescent highlights on her robe, the dancer appeared to be collapsing – or vanishing – into a heap of clothes. If audience response is anything to go on, one of the most successful performers was the solo female belly dancer, who seemed able to manipulate every individual muscle fiber in her torso, and drew great applause (and a few good-humored wolf whistles). The loudest applause of the evening, however, was won by the male belly dancer, who despite his larger frame was nearly a match for his female colleague in suppleness and flexibility, and who – surprisingly – performed with a full beard.

Those seeking indoor entertainment while the weather is still cold could do far worse than attend the Hodjapasha Turkish Dance Show, which affords a good opportunity to learn about the local dance traditions of Turkey and the surrounding regions.

Hodjapasha Culture Center, Ankara Caddesi Hocapaşa Hamam Sok No: 3.B, Sirkeci; P: (0212) 511 46 26 / 36