The little neighborhood of Kurtuluş rarely gets a mention in guidebooks because this little residential area has had the reputation of being Nişantaşı’s poor cousin across the street. Like most of Istanbul, however, this special corner of Beyoğlu is heating up, and very slowly new residents are discovering what veterans of the area already know: Kurtuluş is a haven for specialty food shops, including an abundance of bakeries. We’ve tried and tested the goods to present some of the best sweets this side of town has to offer.
Göreme Muhallebicisi: This tiny local chain is frequented by retirees in the mornings, but by the evening everyone comes in to have a taste of the shop’s lovely puddings to eat in or take away. Our favorites were the exquisitely light aşure, the nicely chewy kazandibi, and the mild-flavored sutlaç with just the right amount of rice. Kurtuluş Caddesi No.60, Kurtuluş; P: (0212) 246 53 67
Tarihi Harbiye Fırını: This mainstay on Ergenekon Caddesi is renowned for its bread, but since we were after the sweet stuff, we loved their açmas swirled with chocolate and their tiny apple tarts covered with powdered sugar, which both called out for an accompanying cup of tea. Ergenekon Caddesi No.25, Kurtuluş; P: (0212) 246 47 32